Jeep JK aggressive heater core flush
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- This is an experiment! I am NOT recommending you do this!! Do At Your Own Risk!!! I Take No Responsibility For Any Damage Or Personal Injury!! How I Cleaned out my Jeep JK heater core with muriatic acid only flushing the heater core and not the whole coolant system...Be careful!!! Here is a link to how change out your heater core with out removing the dash and heater box...
• Jeep JK Heater Core re...
I will be changing the core out soon and cut it open and post it here so see if the acid compromised the core at all wait for it before you think about doing this!!
Ron, I have tried this today. Worked like a charm! Thank you for the video.
*** ANYONE WHO IS THINKING OF DOING THE SAME PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE GOING AHEAD ***
I tried this today on my 2014 JK with 60,000 miles in it. My heater started to act up a year ago when I noticed that I need to set the thermostat higher and higher to get the desired temperature. I blamed the temperature sensor and mostly ignored it. This winter it got more noticeable and after driving home from the New Year's Eve party from Winnipeg in -30 Celsius I realized that I have a serious issue at hand.
Being a DIY guy I headed straight to UA-cam to find a solution.
After watching numerous vids about how flushing would not fix the issue I decided to do the "short cut". I have already gotten a new core when I found this video yesterday.
I pretty much had everything for it so I was thinking what the heck, there is nothing to lose.
Got a jug of the acid and hooked up the hoses and the pump. Also got 1/2 kg of baking soda to deal with the acid after.
The acid was a 30% concentrate and I further diluted it to 50/50 with water. I figured that would be safe.
Started the pump and I was going to run it for 15-20 mins but after 1 minute the water started to "boil" in the bucket quite violently.
That was my thought anyway and I stopped the pump thinking I should take a break. The water kept "boiling" and as I pulled the hose out of the water some gas started to shoot out. It was hydrogen and of course it immediately caught fire. Dunked back the hose under the water so the fire went out but the hydrogen kept bubbling out.
Quickly switched to the second bucket with clean water in it. After that the bubbling stopped. I run it for about a minute then switched again to my 3rd bucket with also clean water in it.
I did it 2 more times with tap water and one last time with distilled water. About 5 mins each.
The first bucked with the strongest acid just looked gray much like in Ron's video. The second one had a creamy grey "cloud" settled and clearly separated from the water. At the bottom under the "cloud" there was a thick white toothpaste like cream. The 3rd had a touch of oily stuff floating on the top. The rest were clean.
It was time to neutralize the acid. The second bucket was done quickly, after putting a spoonful of soda into it there was no more bubbling.
I added a spoonful to the first bucket ... then some more .... then the whole 1/2 kg ... then whatever my wife had in her kitchen and it was still going.
Drove over to my neighbor (heater was blowing smoking hot air yeee-haaaw!) got 2 more boxes of baking soda but the bucket was still going.
I will need more baking soda tomorrow to fully neutralize the first bucked.
My points are:
1. This method really works, quick and easy to do.
2. Be very careful and probably don't go over 5-10% acid concentration
3. Do it outside and have a fire extinguisher at hand
4. Have hoses at least 10 feet long each to be far enough from your Jeep
4. Have at least 2 more buckets with clean water ready
5. Get at least 3 kg (7 lbs) of baking soda ready for a jug of 30% acid.
No sure why my experience was so different from Ron's but better be safe than sorry.
I am happy with the result but I have yet to see if it did any damage to the core. No leak so far inside.
* UPDATE*
Got more baking soda and at the end it took 3.5 kg (8 lbs) to fully neutralize the acid. All is good there.
The other good news is that I put a few drops of the full strength acid (30%) on the new core and it did not react with the aluminum whatsoever. Even tried to rub it and still nothing. Apparently the oxide on the surface protects the rest. I am positive now that all that violent reaction was happening between the acid and the crap inside.
The air that is coming out through ALL vents now is too hot to keep my hands there.The funny thing is that my wife kept saying that hers is fine until saw mine today...
Coming up next .... acid washing of the wifey's Jeep. I'll be smarter this time.
Hi Janos I am glad it worked for you! Mine still working and had some cold weather lately. I will be changing the core anyway with a hack job method i saw on UA-cam then cut the old core open just to see if there any damage from the flush and share my findings on ny channel.. Thanks for your descriptive comment it will really help others if they dare to try this!!
@@ronstickle4694 Right on! I'll be the first to watch your new vid.
Ron, thank you. Dealer wanted $2800 to fix the heater. I used CLR, it took about a hour longer but it work great. I've had this problem for three years now. Got 150 degrees on driver and passenger side. Again thanks.
thank you Robert! I will be replacing the core just to get perfect heat and make a video of a short cut i learned no dash removal. I should be on it early next month!
Aluminum Beverage cans have a plastic liner, therefore putting the acid INSIDE the can would have no effect on the aluminum. You should have set the can in a bowl of acid mixture to test accurately so the aluminum was in direct contact with acid mix.
Consider running just clear water through it dirt to flush out the initial junk. Then cycle your acid through. Then, when you switch to the plain water after the acid, put the pump into the freshwater and let the outlet pump into the first bucket. Once it’s clear move the outlet into the freshwater bucket. This keeps the water in the buckets from getting overly dirty, and gives you a more clear indication of what is coming out of the heater core.
Worked like a charm on my '14 jk! Had same issue with the wifeys '14 durango (same motor) and worked on that previously. I ended up using my drill pump and dilluted the muratic (30%) by 1:3 with water cause i was afraid of eatin up stuff. Worked really well!
Glad it helped you. I don't understand yet what the cause is. I did replace the core and slowly returned back to the same problem. I have new thoughts and ideas that I will make a new video on asap.
Ron
Thanks for the video. I just completed this exact project you did on my 2010 Jeep Wrangler. I followed your exact directions and boom! I have heat on both sides. A+
Jason
And it only took me 4 beers to finish.
Nice! Bad ass video my man. I’m going to do this today, not looking forward to ripping out heater core bs. Thank you very much!
Yes that is aggressive and it works especially at 50/50. I clean my pool filter panels and salt cell at 25% muriatic acid and it's very effective so going 25% should work. However I just did my 09 Jeep Liberty and used a 50/50 mix of CLR and heated distilled water to 150 degrees using a 110 volt Hammond pump from Harbor Freight and it worked perfect, I hadn't had heat for 6 years and it was 155 degrees at the center vents on high after the CLR flush. A ton of grit and dirty water came out. And don't get me wrong CLR at 50/50 is strong and will also etch aluminum but its not as dangerous as acid. Anyone who hasn't used or been around muriatic acid needs to understand how dangerous it is, if you get downwind from it and accidentally breathe it in it will take your breathe away and cause you to cough badly, and any accident, hoses blowing off etc can douce your engine paint etc and burn stuff. Be careful. This is NOT meant to be a criticism of the video, just a warning, muriatic acid is no joke.
PS, don't pump flammable liquids with the Hammond pump, it states so in the instructions. I don't think the pump in the video (Little Giant?) has that problem. I noticed in another post someone had a fire.
so you did the clr with a 50/50 mixture?
@@virgilsmith5792 i used a 50/50 mixture with clr and distilled water.
Also a good idea to check pH of flush water when flushing, and get it to whatever your flush water pH to make sure there is no acid left in the system
both good tips! Thanks for commenting!
Glad it worked for you. I need to do same to my daughter‘s 08 Honda.
Thanks, Ron. I’m sure glad you got better heat now. I hope it holds up for you. It’ll probably be blazing hot in there when you take it out for a ride. Also I’d do that same exact thing you did with vents. Close the left one under the radio and by the door and direct the right one over toward me.
Wow, that really worked. Good idea. Hopefully the gray in the flush water wasn't aluminum from your core. But you showed the can at the end with no damage.
On a side note, many years ago I had the heater core start leaking in the truck and the limo one day apart. The defrosters were actually spraying a very fine antifreeze mist on the windshield. Fortunately they didn't drip on the floor at the time.
thanks Risky but worked but i will be changing the core anyway for two reasons.. 1 i found a video that some guys show a way to change the core with out removing the dash.. And because i want to cut the core open to see what it looks like from the acid and post it here! thanks again!!
I am sure some of the gray color is the aluminum and concerns me but works for now!
Thanks Ron for this video! I had the same symptoms with low heat output mostly on the drivers side. I used your exact method with the exception of reversing the flow a couple of times through the core. I was very surprised the junk that came out. Looked like a lot of radiator leak sealer (copper colored flakes). My heater cranks almost too hot now. Thanks again!
Thanks Mike!
Michael, I am going to be attempting this soon as I am freezing cold up here in Ontario...does your heat still work? Any issues surface? Thanks!
@@mattbinks4417 No issues. Heat still blowing good. Freezing here in North Idaho too. I'm sure glad this worked.
@@847vid123 Thanks! Hope I am also successful!
Guys the reason it keeps happening is most likely the gunk is built up in the radiator and engine and or water pump and it's just going back in after the core flush. I recommend a radiator and engine reverse flush along with the heater core and prob should be gone permenantly
Just wanted to say Thanks. Worked perfectly!!!
Thanks Howie!!
Always add acid to water. At this strength not as important but the water can boil when it hits the acid and explode
I'm in Jersey too. Wanna come over and clean out my heater core? LOL
Since you have used the acid has your heater core started to leak? Just wondering if it ate the heater core. Thanks for all your video's. They helped me flush mine. I might need to try the acid trick before I replace my core.
no months later no leaks however i will be changing the core to get like new heat when i get the time and make a video!
Hey Ron. How is it holding up this winter so far about one year later? :)
Josh Jones wondering the same
I have same problem with my 09 jk
I tried just water and garden hose pressure seems to have lots of flow but barely any heat on far left vent . Didn’t seem dirty either when flushing it .
I am going to try Ron’s method I hope it works
I just finished doing the flush with the muriatic acid I let the pump run for 20min . Did the 50/50 solution then flushed it out. Worked awesome I have heat again on the drivers side . Thank you thank you !
I will say to everyone just make sure you do NOT breathe that shit in!
I would never use this kind of acid you did, I reverse flushed only with water and I can see an improvement already, if you want more use radiator flush which is aluminum safe, what you did you dissolved the aluminium from the core.
This flush worked for one year then failed again. I then gave in and replaced the core. I cut the old core open to see what is clogging it and found sludge that the acid fill be infective to. I found common household degreasers would have worked well in the flush I peformed!
Thanks for the vid. I have A 2010 jk same issue. . May I ask , did you purge the core from both inlet and outlet sides, or just one way? I want to do this before cold weather comes( northern Canada
Thanks
Hi...I flushed it from both sides. However I think a degreaser may have done a better job than acid.. . The problem returned the next year and I changed the core... I cut open the old core and found it clogging with some kind of greasy sludge..
@@ronstickle4694 Thanks for getting back to me I was thinking of letting parts degreaser also and letting it soak in the core for an hour or so, then flush it out. I’ll try it this weekend. I hope it helps
Thanks Ron , Pete.
Great job! I have no leaks and NO heat. Back flushing changed nothing. The temp of hose carrying coolant into the core is 191, while the hose coming out drops to 119. How does this work. 1. If it is "clogged- then how does coolant pass through it at all? 2. How does this magical device LOWER coolant temp by 72 degrees?
I heater core is nothing more than a heat exchanger hot water goes in and a fan blows on it the air takes the heat away and releases it into the car..Now in your case the core is blocked and only a small amount of coolant is getting through an easily cooled down by time it comes out the return hose..It seems to be common on the JK most of us only get heat on the passenger side..What i did is risky because i have no idea if the acid has damaged the core at all.. I think the flush turning gray was because of the aluminum core! I think i will call this an experiment!! thanks for your comment
@@ronstickle4694 I will be doing that dash hack shortcut soon to replace the core. The one thing they did not show in their vid was deburring the lines inside the Jeep before installing the hose patch.
Oxalic acid is good at removing minerals and buildup without attacking base metals.
Thanks... I did not know that 😳
Did you ever do the video of cutting the heater core apart?
Sorry I did not.
What kind of water pump did you use
i don't remember but am working on a core replacement easy it may fail but have to give it a try
Hello Ron, could you please give an update? Thank you!
Hi Ken... So far its working good however i will be changing the core out just because i want to see if the acid did any damage so i can pass it on here. One guy said he did it and worked great other than the mix in the bucket caught fire but i can't understand why . take a look at his comment below yours!
Thank you for replying so quickly. I have the same problem an will try your solution. After that I’m thinking about adding an antifreeze coolant filter to the inlet side of the heater core.
Why i haven't any problem like this on my 20 yr Toyota? Very strange..
Better engineering
@@grandenauto3214 😉
No problem with my 26 year old YJ.
@@oscarwinner2034 nice friend!
It seems the Jeeps are prone to this, however, having been a moderator on a Cadillac forum for 15 years, poor heat required flushing to restore the heat in them also at times. Any type of sealer or cooling system tablets will clog the core. Note, I have seen people go through the huge effort and expense of replacing their Jeep heater core only to have it clog 1 to 2 years later. I just flushed with a pump and 50/50 CLR and have 150 degrees heat at the center vent on high. I will never replace the core unless it leaks and if I need to flush with CLR every other year, thats fine, no way I want to tear the dash out or even pay to have that done on a 09 Liberty.
Hey Ron! Are you still monitoring this video and the comments (I am not sure how that side of things works). If so, can you let me know for how long this fix worked? I am looking for an indoor space to try this out as it is super cold up here in Ontario and I am done with being cold! If you see this, thanks for any insight you may be able to provide!
Hi Matt.. I replaced the core but back to a loss of heat. I cut open the old core and found sludge not from hard water. I have new ideas and will make a new video soon. Us jeep owners need a cure and I am on it asap.
@@ronstickle4694 I will keep my eyes open. For how long did you have heat after the flush? If it gets me through the next few months, I may go for it! Or did you replace the core before the heat kicked out again? What a pain but, yes, Jeeps do that.
Any updates?
i will be replacing the heater core soon just to bring it back to full heat and to do a better hack job than i have seen here. the cause should be well flushed out by now ! Thanks for asking!
So it's half inch ID hoses ?
can't remember but think it may have been 5/8
Holes in shirt lololol I noticed you used a flotec intellipump ! thats a 150$$ pump,, did it trash the pump?
that pump was old and loud so i didn't care about it but it did work after the flush
I hope you can help me. What two hoses do I disconnect to flush the heater core. I have a 2010 jku
i would say follow the two hoses for the heater core at the firewall passenger side to the engine and disconnect at the engine. That is how i did mine. see next comment below
How is this holding up?
Worked well for about 6 months but clogged up again. I had to flush it again.
Ron - did you ever try to flush the core with hot water? Or even try to snake a small hose (1/8 maybe) down to the core and blast?
after some time with improvements but never full heat i replaced the core with a hack method i found on UA-cam takes one hour not 15 and not $1000 or more. I have to do this on my other jeep and will make a better vid better than the one i found
Swapped mine too. Flushing was a waste of time and money. We learned.
Where's your gloves?😊
I should have also had goggles over my glasses!
@@ronstickle4694 it was an interesting video though😊
U should try drinking it too prolongs health
good point!
Can you give us an update? Did that fix the problem?
It did work but happened again the next winter.. I finally changer the heater core and yes this winter it is happening again! Something is up with this jeep! If I figure it out I
will make a video!
@@ronstickle4694 I hate thats happening to you. I'm having the same issue I've flushed it once already. This will be my second time.
@@Illusions-bo5zt .. Thank you so much!!!
Make sure you don’t keep the OEM coolant. It breaks down and causes these issues. Just fully flush the system after you replace the core and put in some prestone.