Have you had any heating issues? It's very easy to flush the system for sure and make sure you blow out any of the remaining tap water from the system. If the cooling system is dirty with build up etc. you'll need to run cleaner through the system. Thanks for watching
@@scottmohrman you can use an air nozzle but really I just used my month and was able to push all the remaining water out of the heater core. You should try flushing the heater core but first make sure the cooling system is properly filled and the Jeep will come up to proper operating temps, either one of these will cause low heat output.
My heat stopped working about 3 years ago, but I live in So Cal where heat isn’t really needed much. Of course, that next winter was one of the coldest in 10 years! Then a few months later it started working again & worked till last winter where it stopped again. I have the full factory extended warranty but the idea of ripping the dash apart to replace the core is daunting & I don’t like other people touching my Jeep! I think I’ll try this 1st. Saw that core hack video tonight too so that might be an option if the flush doesn’t work. Thanks for the video!
@@Georgia4Low im doing mine right now. heater core ,radiator water pump, and if you have engine oil seeping down back of trans its the oil cooler. im changing that too. it sucks but eventually the heater core will have to be changed. the heater core is sideways and the sand sits in the bottom and gets hard
By God, you weren't wrong. Your video saved me buxxx!! My '13 JK had very lukewarm heat. Thought it might be the thermostat. Had the dealer look at it & give me their thoughts, while they were doing some trans work. They wanted $1600 to replace the core. I did the reverse flush & got easily 1/4 cup of crud & crap out. Super heat now, bud! One tip I would give (what I did) is to back fill the core with fresh coolant. After blowing the water out, I removed the fitting from the return, put a funnel in it and filled it with coolant until it started coming out the other end. I then simply pinched the hose, removed the funnel and quickly put it back on the pipe. I then did the same with the inlet side. Then I burped the system per usual. Works great. Thanks again for creating this video.
Awesome to hear!!! Glad you got the heat working again and saved some money. Be warned you may need to do it again. Plenty of that stuff is still probably floating around in the coolant. Thanks for watching!!!!
Just did this today. I added some Prestone coolant flush the heater core and let it sit for 10 minutes and flushed it. Huge different. Thanks for the tips.
Excellent, thank you very much for all the info. I purchased exactly the parts you specified, did like you showed and voila, I have heat again, fixed with $20 and 15 min job! Thank you!
Just found sand in my 2013 doing your backflush,- my bucket of sand matched yours. I had low heat on drivers side, checked the blend door beforehand (see video's on blender door), so now I have heat back again. Have orange Dextros antifreeze (it shows chart for 13+ jeeps) to match original factory orange. Your video was the best on this subject. I did not do the "screen" I did use "CLR" cleaner but found sand was the major debris not any scale or rust. Thanks again
Works 100%!!! I flushed/backflushed repeatedly alternating with hot and then cold water. The expansion/contraction seems to loosen the particles inside the core very effectively. Thanks a bunch!
Great video! Thank you for sharing! I really like the additional fittings you added to your system. Would like to add.. A lot of the time the cause of unbalanced heat in the cab is AIR in the heater core system. A quick and easy trick: 1. Warm up your engine. 2. Pinch the heater core hoses with your fingers. If you feel air turbulence in the hose you know you've got air in the system. 3. Let the system cool. 4. Disconnect hose on right, hold upright and put a funnel in it and pour in coolant until it is full to top of hose... then quickly reconnect the hose. 5. Fire up the engine and "burp" the cooling system. You will likely see an improvement in heating. (This fixed no driver side heat for me in 2014 JK.)
Good tips. What I do is let the Jeep idle and come up to temp (thermostat opening) and then shut it off and let cool. Check and add coolant as needed and repeat the cycle. The heat up and cool down cycles will burp the system back through the radiator/over flow bottle. Thanks for watching
Reverse flushing the heater core worked great. No heat before, great heat now. Took about 30 minutes to do this. I highly recommend doing this before doing anything else.
Great tutorial. Also ran some Prestone Radiator and Heater Core flush through it and let it sit for 20 minutes. Fair amount of rust and random gunk came out. Heater ran better but will probably run an extended flush thru it next time. Blue devil with a 5 hour drive should do it. But good improvement from no heat to good heat now. Thanks for the guide
Excellent instructional video. I just bought a 2013 wrangler and the heat is only so so hot. Can’t wait to get this done tomorrow to get it cleaned out and running well!
Thank you for watching. Note: CLR works well to let it soak in the heater core for 5mins or so and flush it out. Repeat that about twice and back flush as well.
@@Georgia4Low did my flush today on my daughters 2013 wrangler and very little debris (sand or otherwise). So happy with those results! Thanks again for the great video.
From Woodstock GA, thanks you Georgia 4Low. Got my stuff at Home Depot just now. Perfect instructions. I would not have known the sprayer had a way of screwing on a coupler or whatever.
Mannnn! After changing my actuator (that probably wasn’t even broken), adding coolant and burping…after realizing the coolant was low, this finally did it! Spent $30 at Home Depot and flushed it out good! After 3-4 years with no heat, I can’t thank you enough! Best instructions I’ve seen!
Thank you so MUCH! Have not had heat in my 2012 Wrangler in 3yrs! I have had some long cold rides home the past few winters. Just flushed my heater core and it was horrible. My vent temp went from 116 to 159. My heat feels like new again THANKS AGAIN!
Jeeps are also prone to getting vaporlock in the coolant system especially after a flush or low coolant situation for whatever reason. Always make sure to burp the system by running the vehicle with the heater on full blast and this will help with similar no heat issues. Great video and all that casting sand should warrant a factory recall for any heater core issues in my opinion.
Dirt Hammers Off-Road, thank you for this video. I have a Wrangler RHD, so I have to think backwards when people say passenger-side/drivers-side but the under hood configuration is basically the same. I had low heat on the passenger's side (left-side) the last couple of winters, but recently I was barely getting any heat on the the right-hand (driver's side). I flushed as you suggested, then swapped the input/output and flushed again. I used a funnel and poured in some radiator flush, let stand 20-25 minutes. Then I flushed that out; swapped the input/output again; then flushed with your configuration one last time for several minutes. I won't say the heat is like new, but it's pretty dang close! I have to turn the temperature control down to keep from getting too hot! And that's even driving around delivering mail with the window down! Again, thank you so much for your video! It saved me taking a day off work to get the Jeep in the shop, not to mention the $$$ I'm sure the dealer would've charged me!
The heater core in these Jeeps is a pretty poor design as for water flow etc. super small core and water passages. Just note you may need to do it again at some point, you can use CLR next time. I’d rather flush as needed and not pay more out of pocket. I also flushed the radiator and block and went back with old school green coolant. Thanks for watching
Very good video and you are giving very good detail . I will do it for sure on my 2015 . Some dirt mite be auminum sand turning black with the time and maybe some partical of black rubber come from the interior of the rubber hose from the cooling system and maybe somme of engine motor oil coming from the engine oil cooler leak , the main serious problem on a pentastar ( engine oil cooler ) made with black plastic . Thanks very mutch Arthur you are doing a good job
Hey... I used your video to solve the issue. And thanks for showing the parts you bought. I flushed it and it took a while for it to re-burp. Temp actually on driver side for first time. We bought this 2015 for my daughter two years ago in the summer. Last year she told me she had no heat on driver side. ... I am a bad dad. Took me until this winner to address issue. Many project for dad during pandemic if you know what I mean..
What were the symptoms you were having before doing this? I have heat in passenger size but no heat in driver side everything seems to work! Any ideas?
Well done video. I just flushed my 2011 and had instant improvement. Need to do the filter and by pass next. Also need to clean out the overflow bottle.
Great video just did my 2014 1 vent driver vent blew out cold air now its piping hot, I did mess up the plastic clamps to the under carriage trying to get the drain plug
Thanks for this video. I had a garage do a whole coolant system flush and one morning I fired up my heater and it would blow warm but would not blow hot. Followed this video and got a bunch of casting sand out of my heater core. It blows hot again.
Ive never done a coolant flush... do you need to empty (flush out) everything before unplugging the two lines from the system to add the pvc tubing..? How come the coolant doesn't drip all over the engine bay after you unpluged? I wish you could show a video on how you actually unplug the factory pipes (in and out) and plug the tubing without making a mess.. and also how you were able to plug a tube to a water nozzle..
You do need to empty the coolant before disconnecting the two heater core lines. Just place a few shop towels under the hoses when you disconnect them, very little coolant will come out. Home Depot or Lowe’s carries garden hose nozzles that are threaded on the ends, some have a rubber cap on over the threads. They also carry the barb nipple that will thread onto the nozzle. Thanks for watching
That is pretty cool I’m getting hot air outta the passenger side but semi warm out of my driver side I’m afraid we’ve got some blockage lol I wonder if there’s a bigger inline filter application we could put on these things Luckily summer is right around the corner and won’t really need the heat
My coolant system has been working great. I completely flushed all that factory coolant and went back with 50/50 green coolant. Also note the filter screen does work but since it’s small be prepared to remove and clean it often until all the debris is out. Thanks for watching
That is a really great idea, I need to definitely flush my 2014 Rubicon especially since the radiator had to be replaced because it was stopped up. I wonder if instead of using the hose barbs as a filter if there may be a larger more permanent solution such as a small fuel filter type housing like the one on my John Deere?
So from all the comments, driver side no heat, passenger side heat, also have a check engine light on for engine not running at proper temp, which is most likely the thermostat. Do you have a video on how to flush the radiator?
Here’s the link ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html the filter is working but becoming clogged every few days. The filter is small so it doesn’t take much. I completely flushed the block and radiator so I hope I’m catching some left over stuff. Thanks for watching
I was surprised to still see sand in my system after doing a entire system flush. Heater core keeps getting filled up so I just flushed the core and installed on of these filters on my jeep. Took it for a 5 minute test drive and the heater went cold so I am guessing the filter is already full. This casting sand is a pain in the butt. Hoping this filter will help resolve this problem.
For sure as I had to clean it out every few days because of its small size. Zero leaks. Filter cleaning intervals got further apart as I filtered most of the stuff out of the system. The filter was capturing powder/sand type byproduct. Don’t even use the filter today as the system is cleaned.
@@Georgia4Low Thank You Found your video today and appreciate your informative channel, pickup our new to us low mileage 15 JKU Rubi friday so getting ready
Good video brother. New to the jeep world with a 2013 JK, noticing sloshing sound when starting up, thinking a flush of heater core, may flush the whole cooling system to be honest.
Thanks for watching. Note: the filter screen can and will clog quickly at first due to it's small surface area. But it's easy to remove and clean just using a bottle of water to back flush it. I've cleaned mine trail side before. Also note with the screen installed once it becomes clogged engine temps creep up, I used this as an indication the screen needed to be cleaned or I lost heat which was the other indicator. I don't even run the screen today, it has filtered out all the crap.
Can you do this for the engine block also? I have a 2013 anniversary edition rubicon, and it’s been running hot, 218-240 degrees. I noticed sludge, like mucus, in my overflow bottle. There might have been a mix of green and orange antifreeze. I’m looking for the fastest way to flush radiator, block, heater core. I’ve replaced two heater cores on a 2008 Rubicon and that’s a crappy job. Both times heater core leaked coolant inside Jeep after 2-3 years.
Yeah I was thinking either that, or putting the hose in the metal heater core connections, I need some pressure to really push out the muck that I fear is in there. My last JK had the 3.8 and that thing NEVER overheated, the needle never even moved. This 3.6 2013 seems to be really sensitive to operating temps.
Great video, just a question. What's the best way to get all of the water out after flushing? Just air gun, I'm assuming? Then do you need to manually fill inlet tube with coolant, or just let the radiator do the work for you. Thanks
I used compressed air to help push any tap water out. You’ll be surprised how much of it get blown out of system. I filled the radiator and did heat and cool down cycles and added more fluid as needed.
The filter worked great but early on needed to be cleaned every 50 miles or so as it was really small in size, but eventually it did filter out all of the crap. Thanks for watching
Okay so the hot air hadn’t been working in my 2008 JK for YEARS! This video led me to discover that one of these filters has already been installed 😂. It was totally clogged. I had to use a lot of pressure but now it’s clear and the heat is as hot as balls on the sun! So I would say that this works, but if you do this and end up selling your Jeep be a champ and let the next owner know about it 😂😂
Great video- thanks. I have a 2010 JK. Curios if you think this method will work on my model? I have searched high and low and can’t find any video as clear and helpful as yours.
Thanks for sharing very intresting I have 13 thats been over heating slightly on and off, just about replaced everything . I noticed the heater did not blow hot when i was bleeding the system. hopin the flush will work
Very nice video. Why can't you get all the debris (sand) out of the coolant system with a thorough system flush? Also would not flushing both ways help to loosen the debris in the heater core?
Yes the screen worked but it has small surface area so it can clog quickly and require the screen to be flushed. I have gotten to the point now that I don’t need the screen as it has filtered most all the crap out. Note: I did try and completely flush the radiator and engine block prior to refilling with coolant and installing the screen.
I just performed this same technique on my 12 Jeep Cod MW3. Wish I could show the pics of what came out of heater core. I’ll flush the filter around 300 miles. Thanks for posting your video’s.
If you are using a filter system similar to mine you may need to check it more often as mine was getting clogged about every 50 miles for the first few times. Soon I was able to get to the point of it only getting clogged every 200-300 miles and now I removed it completely as I filtered just about all the debris out of the system. Thanks for watching
I hope you plan on checking that screen every day because a clogged screen means no coolant flow. I’d first flush the entire system and see if that eliminates the sand issue. Also, 2013 uses HOAT coolant. If you mix it with other coolant it gums up and causes clogs.
Thanks for watching. What’s not in the video is I did a complete block and radiator flush. The filter screen has been working great, first two times I couldn’t get no more than 50 miles before it clogged. Now I’m at 500 miles and barley anything in the filter screen. Almost got all of it. I went back with 50/50 mix green coolant. Not using any of this new stuff.
It’s works great but since it’s small it needs cleaned often until you get all the crap filtered out. I don’t run the filter now that I have all the stuff filtered out.
I’ve lost heat in half of my cabin so I’m going to try this. Stupid question, but do I need to put coolant back in to the radiator and reservoir after this?
You will need to top off the radiator after you have ran a heat cycle to open the thermostat. Let completely cool to cold, then top off radiator. Likely will only take a few oz’s to top off
Would love an update on the inline filter you used. I would be afraid that the symptoms would be an overheating engine as opposed to noticing the problem via the heater core. Let us know, great video, thanks!
Here’s a little bit of info regarding the filter ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html but you are correct I need to do an update video regarding the filter as I learned a few things from it. Thanks for watching
I flushed exactly the same as you and topped of with coolant. I do feel a temperature change but it’s still not as warm as the passenger side. Any chance I just didn’t have enough water pressure while flushing to completely get all the sand out?
Sometimes the heater cores are too clogged up and basic flushing doesn’t work and they need to be replaced. Make sure the Jeep is coming up to temp also.
The screen system seen in the video has a small surface area and was clogging up as early as 50 miles. I did notice once the filter clogged I had elevated engine temps. It was easy enough to take apart the filter and flush with a bottle of water and re-install and go again. It got to where it took a few hundred miles to clog and then took a thousand miles to clog, now I don't even have it installed since all the debris has been filtered out.
Big eye opening video . If I may I would like to add my attempt to resolve this flaw I did in m y 2013 Jeep wrangler I began to take out a quart of my coolant in the 1st year and replace with the purple 💜 juice with distilled H20. After about 10 gallons I noticed my heater was blowing so hot 🔥 it was painful. Here is my problem with your method. Truly a great fix .. But you introduced ( air ) and water from the tap in your coolant system . I think you have a great idea. But the back door may kick your system up the ( back side ) So far I'm at 50k after 8 yrs .. The coolant I'm my jeep is like new and no interference of outside sources.. The 2013 I have was built after the new heads and robust lifters . However the blasting issue is a ongoing problem
Thanks for watching. Glad you got yours resolved. The air is easily purged but it did created another step in the process. I was able to blow with compressed air likely 95% of the tap water out, maybe even close to 100% as I just let kind of just “blow dry” the heater core system. My goal was to clear the heater core and remove all purple coolant. I flushed the block and radiator and went back with good ole 50/50 green coolant and have never looked back.
if that gunk is coming out the heater core that easy then before doing this that gunk has been flowing through the entire system not just the heater core 24/7. It's NOT necessarily stuck in the heater core right? I would think an ENTIRE cooling system flush is the way to go not just the heater core. Can you then hook the hose up to the RETURN hose coming from the heater core and push water through the entire system and have it drain on the INLET house going to the heater core?
True! Most of this junk gets collected at the heater core due to very small coolant passages. I did a complete system flush (just not in video), plus another reason I did the filter just to catch anything left behind.
Great video bud! I have a 15’ JKU. The fan has been really loud lately, so I’m doing this flush to see if it helps with the cooling. I’ve read that the core clogs up and the fan tries to make us and help cool the engine thus making it loud. I fear that the extra stress in the fan may cause it to fail. I’ll reply back with how it went! Thanks again from ALABAMA! (Sweet beard)
alabiggy thanks for watching, hope the video helps. Are you referring to the cooling fan in the engine bay? Yes if the heater core is clogged enough the engine will run hotter causing the cooling fans to kick on. Let me know!
So do I plug the hose up to the right side of the firewall or the left side opening on the firewall? I can’t tell because the hoses are twisted up. I watched another video and he had it completely opposite it appeared.
For the 3.6L wranglers 2012 and newer the heater core hoses are on the passenger side. The upper most hose is coolant inlet and the lower hose is coolant return. Hope this helps, watch the video one more time as I'm pretty sure it was covered. Any other questions just ask.
my only concern is if the seal in the brass fitting will be ok with really hot water. I had this issue fixed on my mine under warranty, dunno if they back flushed or replaced the core at the dealership.
My 2015 JK 3.6L has a radiator drain so I used that. Then I removed the thermostat housing and pushed fresh water through the block via the radiator. Used compressed air to force most garden hose water out through all hoses
This is one of the best videos on this process. While you didn’t show it, you mentioned blowing out all the water in the heater core with some air. I didn’t think of that but it seems critical. I think I’m going to drain as much coolant as I can from the radiator then top off with distilled and add some coolant cleaner and drive with the heat on for a bit. Then drain all that out and repeat once more. Final step I’ll flush the heater core as you showed, blow out the core with air, then fill the entire system with fresh coolant and call it a day. Am I missing anything here in that approach? Again thanks!! This has been somewhat of a mystery to me. Blowing out the heater core is something I didn’t even think of but makes sense. Have to get that water out!
I think you are on the right track for sure and yes blowing out the remaining water from the heater core was super easy. Good Luck and hope you get it flushed out.
What green antifreeze works with a 2013 JKU, I understand that "green" is universal but I'm trying to avoid being pushed the wrong product, thanks in advance!
I used the 50/50 premixed green antifreeze. It’s the standard antifreeze. Works great in my 2015 JKU. It just requires replacement more often like every 3 years or so.
Don’t buy antifreeze specific to the Jeep because it’s a little confusing for some and the folks at the auto parts store. The issue is if you mix HOAT with OAT antifreeze causes issues.
It’s a good idea to try and get as much of the tap water out of the system as possible. I basically used my mouth and blew through the hoses, doesn’t take a lot of effort or pressure to do so.
I just put in a new radiator and need to do this while it's still clean. When you did this flush how much coolant/water did you add back in? Or did you just leave water in and not mess with adding more coolant?
I replaced my engine and radiator last year and the only thing left is the heater core, should I put the screen on the return side to catch anything from the core or from the radiator?
If you want to filter the system the filter should go on the inlet line to the heater core. You want to filter out debris before it enters the heater core. I recommend keeping an eye on the filter and cleaning it often.
Could it be a solution for my Wrangler 2012 that is blowing hot air only from the passenger side ? Inconsistent heat from the driving side on the highway and practicly no heat from the driving side when stopping on redlights etc. My engine temp seams to climb a bit up when I accelerate on the highway. Well thanks and I hope it could help me !
Robert Bettis It would be best to flush the radiator and engine block if you have debris found in the heater core. Distilled water would be preferred if you can figure out a way to Force it through the system under pressure. I was able to blow out most of the tap water. Thanks for watching
When you first show the engine, at the 5:05 mark, you already have the clear hose hooked up to the lines. It's kind of hard for me to see, is the coolant line that flows in the closest to the driver's side when it goes into the firewall? And is the coolant that flows out closest to the passenger's side when it goes into the firewall?
Kevin Maher watch the video again and look at how I have the clear flush lines connected. I mention which is coolant in or outlet as how they come off the engine. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching
Dirt Hammers Off-Road Thanks. I had same question but you are right...you do state which is inlet and which is return. My wife would say I wasn’t listening. 😀. Drivers side heat is only pushing about 100f heat on my 2013 JKU. Passenger side is fine. 127F
My JK has been running warm but not overheating, now the heat is hit or miss. I wonder if this will solve both issues. Anyone else having temps 230+ in 70degree weather?
I’ve this before if a heater core was completely clogged. Also this happened on my Jeep once the filter screen I installed in the video would become full and needing cleaned. Flush the core and test drive afterwords.
Do you know if the blend door arm rotates 360 degrees when detached from actuator? I have a feeling my blend door itself might be broken since there is heat in pipe going to and from heater core?
Sorry but I don’t have any experience with a faulty blend door. Seems like I saw videos around UA-cam regarding Jeep blend doors, I’m sure you can find something. Wish I could help.
The screen worked great for filtering out the debris but it required cleaning frequently until all the debris was filtered out. I have since removed the filter, system works great. Thanks for watching
so I've been doing this now for seven years it really sucks that I have to do this every single time on my Jeep. what I ended up doing was using some CLR and a transfer pump into the heater core and I got a lot of crap out. hopefully this will be the last time I have to do this but I doubt it I do like your idea about the screen never thought about that I might try that next time if I have to do this again which I've most likely will I just don't want to have to drain the coolant again. but really good video
I also ended up using distilled water to clear all the CLR out of the heater core. to make sure I didn't introduce any CLR into the cooling system I got buckets of distilled water and flushed clean distilled water three times.
The filter screen worked and worked really great. Be warned that once the screen clogs engine temps rise up enough to turn on the fans. Clean screen and all good again. I removed the screen after about two months of filtering. At first I had to clean the screen within 50miles and then I got where I could go 150 miles before clogging. Best move I think I made was switching back to green old school coolant. I just flushed mine again this week and got only some small particles out. I want to do the CLR trick with a pump just to ensure it’s flushed and clean. What pump did you use and where did you get it?
I found this one www.harborfreight.com/110-hp-transfer-pump-320-gph-63317.html?_br_psugg_q=water+pump and then i used a gallon of CLR and a gallon of Distilled water. From there I created a loop into the heater core and would run maybe 20 mins or till the foam was over flowing the 5gal bucket and let it sit for 30-40 mins depending on how long it took the foam to go away. I would then start the process all over again till nothing but mixture would would flow then I would stop and start the opposite direction, following the same process of stopping when the bucket is either full of foam or nothing but the mixture came out. Part of the fact is my dumb a$$ used tap water the last 3 times I flushed my coolant just cause it is a matter of convenience. So because of that I did this for a little over a day, which was prolly overkill, but its a 2012 and I am sick of not having heat.
Well just a little update, this worked for a few weeks, now I got something still not letting the coolant through. the inflow is hot as hell, but the return tube is cool to the touch. So my thought might be to do the filter screen like you did. But here is my next question, mine is a 2012, this video is now a year old, what is your year review since it is now getting to be colder. Do you feel that the filter screen is gonna be your forever solution so during the colder months you will constantly have to clean the screen? In your update video a comment you posted said that you took the screen out for the summer. Do you have an update now that it is cooler again, did removing the filter screen for the summer result is the crud coming back? Or by using the filter screen last year and moving to green coolant result in over time the crud really was removed. Thanks!
If your heater core is clogged by casting sand, your radiator is also clogged. Check if your upper radiator hose collapses when the engine is hot. If so, the radiator is clogged. The thin water pump seal will fail on the suction side and introduce air into the system thus reducing hot coolant into the heater core. If you have never ending bubbles in your radiator it can only come from 2 places. Head gasket or suction side of the water pump.
Yes I have cleaned it several times ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html I have almost captured all of the debris. So it’s working. Thanks for watching
I am having major overheating issues while driving my 2012 Wrangler. Had an issue with it overheating while in park or just idling about a month ago. That time it ended up being the fan. I also replaced the thermostat. Was running fine until about 2 weeks ago. I posted on Facebook and about half the comments said it was casting sand. I tried this method of flushing out the heating core but had virtually no “gunk” come out. Other than a little gunk at the bottom of my coolant overflow reservoir I don’t see any signs of casting sand. Could the problem be my water pump? There is no leak.
The cooling system could have air trapped in the system. Here’s how to purge air. Start Jeep and let it idle or take it for a short drive to get it up to temp then let it completely cool down. Once completely cool remove radiator cap and add coolant. Repeat this process until you can no longer add coolant. How hot is it running? How many miles on it? Yes it could be a water pump.
Dirt Hammers Off-Road I don’t have a temperature gauge to measure just how hot it’s getting. When driving at a constant speed it sits on or over the 1/4 mark. It has just over 128,00 miles on it.
Dirt Hammers Off-Road Yes fan is working fine now. I’ve scrolled through all of the menu options on my steering wheel. I don’t think the 2012’s have the temperature gauge other than the gauge that tells you what the temperature is outside. At least my 2012 doesn’t have it unless there is a secret menu lol.
Do you still use the green stuff since making the video? Interested to do all of this on my 2017 Willys and was thinking about the green stuff to avoid dealing with the crap that is in the new stuff.
Who else has found casting sand debris in their Jeep's cooling system?
I probably have sand in my system. I have a very early 2012 jku. Thank you for this video.
Have you had any heating issues? It's very easy to flush the system for sure and make sure you blow out any of the remaining tap water from the system. If the cooling system is dirty with build up etc. you'll need to run cleaner through the system. Thanks for watching
I feel like the heat was hotter in the past. You hooked up air and blow out the heater core?
@@scottmohrman you can use an air nozzle but really I just used my month and was able to push all the remaining water out of the heater core. You should try flushing the heater core but first make sure the cooling system is properly filled and the Jeep will come up to proper operating temps, either one of these will cause low heat output.
My heat stopped working about 3 years ago, but I live in So Cal where heat isn’t really needed much. Of course, that next winter was one of the coldest in 10 years! Then a few months later it started working again & worked till last winter where it stopped again. I have the full factory extended warranty but the idea of ripping the dash apart to replace the core is daunting & I don’t like other people touching my Jeep! I think I’ll try this 1st. Saw that core hack video tonight too so that might be an option if the flush doesn’t work. Thanks for the video!
Just finished doing this
, fixed my heat problem, had no heat on the driver side. Thanks to this video I’m so happy I saved a bunch of money.
Thanks for watching and glad to help.
doesnt last long, heater core will need replaced in the end
@chuckchuck8319 haven’t replaced mine yet but I did filter out all the crap with an inline filter on the coolant side.
@@Georgia4Low im doing mine right now. heater core ,radiator water pump, and if you have engine oil seeping down back of trans its the oil cooler. im changing that too. it sucks but eventually the heater core will have to be changed. the heater core is sideways and the sand sits in the bottom and gets hard
Everybody keeps talking about oil cooler leaking, mine is a 2015 model with 108k miles with original oil cooler. Hope your project goes well.
Best Heater core flush and instructions on youtube. Thanks for taking the time to provide this for us!
Thank for taking the time to watch and the support.
Just did this for the “no drivers side heat” problem. worked like a charm. Thanks for this!
So glad the video helped. Thanks for watching
Did you have heat on the passenger side? But not on driver side?
@@johnturpin8826 that’s correct
@@Georgia4Low
Greatly appreciate it
Iam have same issue. At least now i know the problem. Thanks
By God, you weren't wrong. Your video saved me buxxx!!
My '13 JK had very lukewarm heat. Thought it might be the thermostat. Had the dealer look at it & give me their thoughts, while they were doing some trans work.
They wanted $1600 to replace the core. I did the reverse flush & got easily 1/4 cup of crud & crap out.
Super heat now, bud!
One tip I would give (what I did) is to back fill the core with fresh coolant.
After blowing the water out, I removed the fitting from the return, put a funnel in it and filled it with coolant until it started coming out the other end. I then simply pinched the hose, removed the funnel and quickly put it back on the pipe. I then did the same with the inlet side. Then I burped the system per usual. Works great.
Thanks again for creating this video.
Awesome to hear!!! Glad you got the heat working again and saved some money. Be warned you may need to do it again. Plenty of that stuff is still probably floating around in the coolant. Thanks for watching!!!!
Thank you, worked great on my 2013 JK. Competed every step except the filter idea, didn’t want another place for a leak to develop.
Glad the video helped! Thanks for watching
It’s 2022, I’ve got a new to me 2013 JK, no heat on left side. and this video is definitely a money saver! Thank you!
Glad to help and thanks for watching
Followed your video and did the same with the exception of the filter. Worked perfectly!! Heat is ready for winter. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad the video helped.
Im learning a lot from all this videos. I was afraid to do something I couldn't control but thanks to your knowledge I can fix my problem. Thank you.
Glad the video was able to help.
Just did this today. I added some Prestone coolant flush the heater core and let it sit for 10 minutes and flushed it. Huge different. Thanks for the tips.
Perfect! I’m glad I was able to help and thanks for watching.
Excellent, thank you very much for all the info. I purchased exactly the parts you specified, did like you showed and voila, I have heat again, fixed with $20 and 15 min job! Thank you!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching
Great video and simple instructions, thank you. I did this over the weekend and am amazed at the difference!
Perfect!! so glad the video was able to help. Thanks for watching.
Just found sand in my 2013 doing your backflush,- my bucket of sand matched yours. I had low heat on drivers side, checked the blend door beforehand (see video's on blender door), so now I have heat back again. Have orange Dextros antifreeze (it shows chart for 13+ jeeps) to match original factory orange. Your video was the best on this subject. I did not do the "screen" I did use "CLR" cleaner but found sand was the major debris not any scale or rust. Thanks again
Glad the video helped. I went with green 50/50 after complete flush and haven’t looked back
Works 100%!!! I flushed/backflushed repeatedly alternating with hot and then cold water. The expansion/contraction seems to loosen the particles inside the core very effectively. Thanks a bunch!
You’re welcome, so glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching
Headed into a cold Maine winter. I can't thank you enough. Great video and easy to follow instructions. Pure gold.
Thank you for the support.
Great video! Thank you for sharing! I really like the additional fittings you added to your system.
Would like to add.. A lot of the time the cause of unbalanced heat in the cab is AIR in the heater core system.
A quick and easy trick:
1. Warm up your engine.
2. Pinch the heater core hoses with your fingers. If you feel air turbulence in the hose you know you've got air in the system.
3. Let the system cool.
4. Disconnect hose on right, hold upright and put a funnel in it and pour in coolant until it is full to top of hose... then quickly reconnect the hose.
5. Fire up the engine and "burp" the cooling system. You will likely see an improvement in heating. (This fixed no driver side heat for me in 2014 JK.)
Good tips. What I do is let the Jeep idle and come up to temp (thermostat opening) and then shut it off and let cool. Check and add coolant as needed and repeat the cycle. The heat up and cool down cycles will burp the system back through the radiator/over flow bottle. Thanks for watching
how do you "burp" it?
@@albertaoilgirl squeeze the hoses
Reverse flushing the heater core worked great. No heat before, great heat now. Took about 30 minutes to do this. I highly recommend doing this before doing anything else.
Thank you for watching
I think this casting sand also causes all the issues with the cylinder heads on the Pentastar engines. Thanks for this. I'll flush mine today.
Could be if the head is getting to hot! Thanks for watching
Great tutorial. Also ran some Prestone Radiator and Heater Core flush through it and let it sit for 20 minutes. Fair amount of rust and random gunk came out. Heater ran better but will probably run an extended flush thru it next time. Blue devil with a 5 hour drive should do it. But good improvement from no heat to good heat now. Thanks for the guide
Thank you for watching
Excellent instructional video. I just bought a 2013 wrangler and the heat is only so so hot. Can’t wait to get this done tomorrow to get it cleaned out and running well!
Thank you for watching. Note: CLR works well to let it soak in the heater core for 5mins or so and flush it out. Repeat that about twice and back flush as well.
@@Georgia4Low did my flush today on my daughters 2013 wrangler and very little debris (sand or otherwise). So happy with those results! Thanks again for the great video.
From Woodstock GA, thanks you Georgia 4Low. Got my stuff at Home Depot just now. Perfect instructions. I would not have known the sprayer had a way of screwing on a coupler or whatever.
Glad to help! Good luck with the flushing and thanks for watching
It worked!! Had to burp it too.
@@ChrisBurnsATL awesome!!! Stay warm now!!!
Mannnn! After changing my actuator (that probably wasn’t even broken), adding coolant and burping…after realizing the coolant was low, this finally did it! Spent $30 at Home Depot and flushed it out good! After 3-4 years with no heat, I can’t thank you enough! Best instructions I’ve seen!
Glad it worked out for you and thanks for watching
Thank you so MUCH! Have not had heat in my 2012 Wrangler in 3yrs! I have had some long cold rides home the past few winters. Just flushed my heater core and it was horrible. My vent temp went from 116 to 159. My heat feels like new again THANKS AGAIN!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching
Great video, thank you! Couldn't help but notice an old GE locomotive idling in the background lol
Thanks for watching! Yeah we have tracks right behind us.
Jeeps are also prone to getting vaporlock in the coolant system especially after a flush or low coolant situation for whatever reason. Always make sure to burp the system by running the vehicle with the heater on full blast and this will help with similar no heat issues. Great video and all that casting sand should warrant a factory recall for any heater core issues in my opinion.
Good points. Thanks for watching
Bro your flat top is absolutely epic! Thank you for your video brother.
Thanks for watching! lol, thanks! I wore a flat top nearly 35 years but no longer do.
Great video, awesome information.
Will use this info to flush the core on my JKU.
Thanks.
Thank you for watching!
Dirt Hammers Off-Road, thank you for this video. I have a Wrangler RHD, so I have to think backwards when people say passenger-side/drivers-side but the under hood configuration is basically the same. I had low heat on the passenger's side (left-side) the last couple of winters, but recently I was barely getting any heat on the the right-hand (driver's side). I flushed as you suggested, then swapped the input/output and flushed again. I used a funnel and poured in some radiator flush, let stand 20-25 minutes. Then I flushed that out; swapped the input/output again; then flushed with your configuration one last time for several minutes. I won't say the heat is like new, but it's pretty dang close! I have to turn the temperature control down to keep from getting too hot! And that's even driving around delivering mail with the window down! Again, thank you so much for your video! It saved me taking a day off work to get the Jeep in the shop, not to mention the $$$ I'm sure the dealer would've charged me!
The heater core in these Jeeps is a pretty poor design as for water flow etc. super small core and water passages. Just note you may need to do it again at some point, you can use CLR next time. I’d rather flush as needed and not pay more out of pocket. I also flushed the radiator and block and went back with old school green coolant. Thanks for watching
Awesome video. Love the information and how it was easily laid out.
Thank you for the kind words and for watching.
Very good video and you are giving very good detail . I will do it for sure on my 2015 . Some dirt mite be auminum sand turning black with the time and maybe some partical of black rubber come from the interior of the rubber hose from the cooling system and maybe somme of engine motor oil coming from the engine oil cooler leak , the main serious problem on a pentastar ( engine oil cooler ) made with black plastic . Thanks very mutch Arthur you are doing a good job
thanks for the support and for watching
Hey... I used your video to solve the issue. And thanks for showing the parts you bought. I flushed it and it took a while for it to re-burp.
Temp actually on driver side for first time. We bought this 2015 for my daughter two years ago in the summer. Last year she told me she had no heat on driver side. ... I am a bad dad. Took me until this winner to address issue. Many project for dad during pandemic if you know what I mean..
Awesome to hear you got the heating resolved. Thanks for watching
It’s so easy to work on the 3.6 you guys got it made the 3.8s hose detach at two stupid points on the engine
its always something right? These damn Jeeps.
What were the symptoms you were having before doing this? I have heat in passenger size but no heat in driver side everything seems to work! Any ideas?
Same symptoms as you described. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the video. it flushed out a lot of trash when I did it on my jeep 👍
Glad it helped
Well done video. I just flushed my 2011 and had instant improvement. Need to do the filter and by pass next. Also need to clean out the overflow bottle.
Thanks for watching
Great video just did my 2014 1 vent driver vent blew out cold air now its piping hot, I did mess up the plastic clamps to the under carriage trying to get the drain plug
Thank you for watching
Thanks for this video. I had a garage do a whole coolant system flush and one morning I fired up my heater and it would blow warm but would not blow hot. Followed this video and got a bunch of casting sand out of my heater core. It blows hot again.
Awesome!! Glad the video helped! Thanks for watching
Ive never done a coolant flush... do you need to empty (flush out) everything before unplugging the two lines from the system to add the pvc tubing..? How come the coolant doesn't drip all over the engine bay after you unpluged? I wish you could show a video on how you actually unplug the factory pipes (in and out) and plug the tubing without making a mess.. and also how you were able to plug a tube to a water nozzle..
You do need to empty the coolant before disconnecting the two heater core lines. Just place a few shop towels under the hoses when you disconnect them, very little coolant will come out. Home Depot or Lowe’s carries garden hose nozzles that are threaded on the ends, some have a rubber cap on over the threads. They also carry the barb nipple that will thread onto the nozzle. Thanks for watching
That is pretty cool I’m getting hot air outta the passenger side but semi warm out of my driver side I’m afraid we’ve got some blockage lol I wonder if there’s a bigger inline filter application we could put on these things
Luckily summer is right around the corner and won’t really need the heat
Yes a bigger filter would help with its larger surface area. I needed something quick and easy. Thanks for watching
Any new updates on this video ?
I have a jku 2015, I’m considering following your advices stated on this video.
My coolant system has been working great. I completely flushed all that factory coolant and went back with 50/50 green coolant. Also note the filter screen does work but since it’s small be prepared to remove and clean it often until all the debris is out. Thanks for watching
@@Georgia4Low thank you for your fast response.
Excellent video. The flush fixed the issue, thanks for posting this!
Glad to help and thanks for watching
That is a really great idea, I need to definitely flush my 2014 Rubicon especially since the radiator had to be replaced because it was stopped up. I wonder if instead of using the hose barbs as a filter if there may be a larger more permanent solution such as a small fuel filter type housing like the one on my John Deere?
A larger filter with more surface area would be ideal, the small filter I used had to cleaned often until the system was filtered clean.
@@Georgia4Low when I was drilling my air compressor IR 700/350 had a spin on filter in the cooling system
@@bradmcalister1027 I thought about using a small marine spin on filter system, with some Union barbs and more hose it would be easy to install.
So from all the comments, driver side no heat, passenger side heat, also have a check engine light on for engine not running at proper temp, which is most likely the thermostat. Do you have a video on how to flush the radiator?
No video but it’s simple. There is a drain valve on the bottom driver side of the radiator.
Please do a follow up video on how your filter device is working.
Here’s the link ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html the filter is working but becoming clogged every few days. The filter is small so it doesn’t take much. I completely flushed the block and radiator so I hope I’m catching some left over stuff. Thanks for watching
I was surprised to still see sand in my system after doing a entire system flush. Heater core keeps getting filled up so I just flushed the core and installed on of these filters on my jeep. Took it for a 5 minute test drive and the heater went cold so I am guessing the filter is already full. This casting sand is a pain in the butt. Hoping this filter will help resolve this problem.
The filter will clog quickly because of its small surface area. But it will eventually filter out the debris. I don’t even run the filter anymore.
@@Georgia4Low I definitely think you were onto something good here. Will let ya know how it goes. Thanks brother!
Have you checked your filter system to see if its working and what it has captured also any leak problems at the filter joints
For sure as I had to clean it out every few days because of its small size. Zero leaks. Filter cleaning intervals got further apart as I filtered most of the stuff out of the system. The filter was capturing powder/sand type byproduct. Don’t even use the filter today as the system is cleaned.
@@Georgia4Low Thank You Found your video today and appreciate your informative channel, pickup our new to us low mileage 15 JKU Rubi friday so getting ready
Good video brother. New to the jeep world with a 2013 JK, noticing sloshing sound when starting up, thinking a flush of heater core, may flush the whole cooling system to be honest.
Thanks for watching. Yeah that’s an odd sound during start up, maybe air in the cooling system?
@@Georgia4Low i think so, others have had the same issue and some have been resolved with a coolant system flush.
Very good video and appreciate the parts list. Going to do this
Thanks for watching. Note: the filter screen can and will clog quickly at first due to it's small surface area. But it's easy to remove and clean just using a bottle of water to back flush it. I've cleaned mine trail side before. Also note with the screen installed once it becomes clogged engine temps creep up, I used this as an indication the screen needed to be cleaned or I lost heat which was the other indicator. I don't even run the screen today, it has filtered out all the crap.
Can you do this for the engine block also? I have a 2013 anniversary edition rubicon, and it’s been running hot, 218-240 degrees. I noticed sludge, like mucus, in my overflow bottle. There might have been a mix of green and orange antifreeze. I’m looking for the fastest way to flush radiator, block, heater core. I’ve replaced two heater cores on a 2008 Rubicon and that’s a crappy job. Both times heater core leaked coolant inside Jeep after 2-3 years.
I flushed the block by removing the big radiator hoses and thermostat and just stuck a water hose in the top hose and flushed it that way.
Yeah I was thinking either that, or putting the hose in the metal heater core connections, I need some pressure to really push out the muck that I fear is in there. My last JK had the 3.8 and that thing NEVER overheated, the needle never even moved. This 3.6 2013 seems to be really sensitive to operating temps.
@@cardenasrc51 hope you get it sorted out.
Does pressure matter? Reading some other places to not use lots of water pressure but saw you go wide open with the sprayer? Thanks!
I think tap pressure at the water hose is ok but be mindful because some water hose taps may have lots of pressures.
Great video, just a question.
What's the best way to get all of the water out after flushing?
Just air gun, I'm assuming?
Then do you need to manually fill inlet tube with coolant, or just let the radiator do the work for you.
Thanks
I used compressed air to help push any tap water out. You’ll be surprised how much of it get blown out of system. I filled the radiator and did heat and cool down cycles and added more fluid as needed.
@@Georgia4Low Thanks 🍻
That filter is a great idea. Clean it out once or twice a year and you should be good!
The filter worked great but early on needed to be cleaned every 50 miles or so as it was really small in size, but eventually it did filter out all of the crap. Thanks for watching
Okay so the hot air hadn’t been working in my 2008 JK for YEARS! This video led me to discover that one of these filters has already been installed 😂.
It was totally clogged. I had to use a lot of pressure but now it’s clear and the heat is as hot as balls on the sun!
So I would say that this works, but if you do this and end up selling your Jeep be a champ and let the next owner know about it 😂😂
Awesome!! Glad to hear you fixed the issue and it was simple.
Great video- thanks. I have a 2010 JK. Curios if you think this method will work on my model? I have searched high and low and can’t find any video as clear and helpful as yours.
Heater cores are small by design in Jeep Wranglers making them easy to clog up with sludge etc. yes flushing your 2010 would be helpful.
but after finishing the flush how to remove the regular water from the Heater Core ?
I blew it with air.
Thanks for sharing very intresting
I have 13 thats been over heating slightly on and off, just about replaced everything .
I noticed the heater did not blow hot when i was bleeding the system. hopin the flush will work
Thanks for watching, what I have learned is a clogged core on these 3.6L Jeeps will cause higher engine temps and it will come and go.
I have the same problem in my 02 different motor of course but I noticed a decline in heat from one year to the next
Very nice video. Why can't you get all the debris (sand) out of the coolant system with a thorough system flush? Also would not flushing both ways help to loosen the debris in the heater core?
Yes flushing both directions could help. A lot of this debris hides in places in the block, heads, etc. thanks for watching
Thanks for the video, did the job yesterday and it worked perfectly!
Great to hear!
How has the screen worked for you? Already flushed last year, but problem is back now. Any update?
Yes the screen worked but it has small surface area so it can clog quickly and require the screen to be flushed. I have gotten to the point now that I don’t need the screen as it has filtered most all the crap out. Note: I did try and completely flush the radiator and engine block prior to refilling with coolant and installing the screen.
I just performed this same technique on my 12 Jeep Cod MW3. Wish I could show the pics of what came out of heater core. I’ll flush the filter around 300 miles. Thanks for posting your video’s.
If you are using a filter system similar to mine you may need to check it more often as mine was getting clogged about every 50 miles for the first few times. Soon I was able to get to the point of it only getting clogged every 200-300 miles and now I removed it completely as I filtered just about all the debris out of the system. Thanks for watching
@@Georgia4Low I will. Thanks
I hope you plan on checking that screen every day because a clogged screen means no coolant flow. I’d first flush the entire system and see if that eliminates the sand issue. Also, 2013 uses HOAT coolant. If you mix it with other coolant it gums up and causes clogs.
Thanks for watching. What’s not in the video is I did a complete block and radiator flush. The filter screen has been working great, first two times I couldn’t get no more than 50 miles before it clogged. Now I’m at 500 miles and barley anything in the filter screen. Almost got all of it. I went back with 50/50 mix green coolant. Not using any of this new stuff.
Love the inline filter idea!
It’s works great but since it’s small it needs cleaned often until you get all the crap filtered out. I don’t run the filter now that I have all the stuff filtered out.
I’ve lost heat in half of my cabin so I’m going to try this. Stupid question, but do I need to put coolant back in to the radiator and reservoir after this?
You will need to top off the radiator after you have ran a heat cycle to open the thermostat. Let completely cool to cold, then top off radiator. Likely will only take a few oz’s to top off
Would love an update on the inline filter you used. I would be afraid that the symptoms would be an overheating engine as opposed to noticing the problem via the heater core. Let us know, great video, thanks!
Here’s a little bit of info regarding the filter ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html but you are correct I need to do an update video regarding the filter as I learned a few things from it. Thanks for watching
I flushed exactly the same as you and topped of with coolant. I do feel a temperature change but it’s still not as warm as the passenger side. Any chance I just didn’t have enough water pressure while flushing to completely get all the sand out?
Sometimes the heater cores are too clogged up and basic flushing doesn’t work and they need to be replaced. Make sure the Jeep is coming up to temp also.
Curious how fast that screen clogged up and blocked flow to the Heater core. Guess it wouldn't hurt anything if it did.
The screen system seen in the video has a small surface area and was clogging up as early as 50 miles. I did notice once the filter clogged I had elevated engine temps. It was easy enough to take apart the filter and flush with a bottle of water and re-install and go again. It got to where it took a few hundred miles to clog and then took a thousand miles to clog, now I don't even have it installed since all the debris has been filtered out.
Big eye opening video .
If I may I would like to add my attempt to resolve this flaw I did in m y 2013 Jeep wrangler
I began to take out a quart of my coolant in the 1st year and replace with the purple 💜 juice with distilled H20.
After about 10 gallons I noticed my heater was blowing so hot 🔥 it was painful.
Here is my problem with your method.
Truly a great fix ..
But you introduced ( air ) and water from the tap in your coolant system .
I think you have a great idea.
But the back door may kick your system up the ( back side )
So far I'm at 50k after 8 yrs ..
The coolant I'm my jeep is like new and no interference of outside sources..
The 2013 I have was built after the new heads and robust lifters .
However the blasting issue is a ongoing problem
Thanks for watching. Glad you got yours resolved. The air is easily purged but it did created another step in the process. I was able to blow with compressed air likely 95% of the tap water out, maybe even close to 100% as I just let kind of just “blow dry” the heater core system. My goal was to clear the heater core and remove all purple coolant. I flushed the block and radiator and went back with good ole 50/50 green coolant and have never looked back.
if that gunk is coming out the heater core that easy then before doing this that gunk has been flowing through the entire system not just the heater core 24/7. It's NOT necessarily stuck in the heater core right? I would think an ENTIRE cooling system flush is the way to go not just the heater core. Can you then hook the hose up to the RETURN hose coming from the heater core and push water through the entire system and have it drain on the INLET house going to the heater core?
True! Most of this junk gets collected at the heater core due to very small coolant passages. I did a complete system flush (just not in video), plus another reason I did the filter just to catch anything left behind.
One question, how much presure would you have to use to get the water into the system from the house outside faucet; all the way, or hlf way?
Just turn the house faucet all the way open. thanks for watching
Great video bud! I have a 15’ JKU. The fan has been really loud lately, so I’m doing this flush to see if it helps with the cooling. I’ve read that the core clogs up and the fan tries to make us and help cool the engine thus making it loud. I fear that the extra stress in the fan may cause it to fail. I’ll reply back with how it went! Thanks again from ALABAMA! (Sweet beard)
alabiggy thanks for watching, hope the video helps. Are you referring to the cooling fan in the engine bay? Yes if the heater core is clogged enough the engine will run hotter causing the cooling fans to kick on. Let me know!
Updates?
@alabiggy updates??
Awesome video brother, very helpful. Thank you.
Glad to help. Thank you
So do I plug the hose up to the right side of the firewall or the left side opening on the firewall? I can’t tell because the hoses are twisted up. I watched another video and he had it completely opposite it appeared.
For the 3.6L wranglers 2012 and newer the heater core hoses are on the passenger side. The upper most hose is coolant inlet and the lower hose is coolant return. Hope this helps, watch the video one more time as I'm pretty sure it was covered. Any other questions just ask.
my only concern is if the seal in the brass fitting will be ok with really hot water. I had this issue fixed on my mine under warranty, dunno if they back flushed or replaced the core at the dealership.
Yeah the rubber seal held up great with no issues. Thanks for watching
2019 jeep wrangler jl sport 3.6 does not have radiator or drain plug, so for this how do you flush and refill coolant on this jeep?
My 2015 JK 3.6L has a radiator drain so I used that. Then I removed the thermostat housing and pushed fresh water through the block via the radiator. Used compressed air to force most garden hose water out through all hoses
This is one of the best videos on this process. While you didn’t show it, you mentioned blowing out all the water in the heater core with some air. I didn’t think of that but it seems critical. I think I’m going to drain as much coolant as I can from the radiator then top off with distilled and add some coolant cleaner and drive with the heat on for a bit. Then drain all that out and repeat once more. Final step I’ll flush the heater core as you showed, blow out the core with air, then fill the entire system with fresh coolant and call it a day. Am I missing anything here in that approach? Again thanks!! This has been somewhat of a mystery to me. Blowing out the heater core is something I didn’t even think of but makes sense. Have to get that water out!
I think you are on the right track for sure and yes blowing out the remaining water from the heater core was super easy. Good Luck and hope you get it flushed out.
In process of doing this as I write. Lol. I can’t get the heater core hoses off I’m using piks but no luck…yet. Pain in ass.
Yes the heater hoses are a major pain in the butt.
What green antifreeze works with a 2013 JKU, I understand that "green" is universal but I'm trying to avoid being pushed the wrong product, thanks in advance!
I used the 50/50 premixed green antifreeze. It’s the standard antifreeze. Works great in my 2015 JKU. It just requires replacement more often like every 3 years or so.
Don’t buy antifreeze specific to the Jeep because it’s a little confusing for some and the folks at the auto parts store. The issue is if you mix HOAT with OAT antifreeze causes issues.
Awesome video, thank you. I’ll be flushing mine in July.
Awesome so glad the video was able to help.
Is it necessary to blow the heater core dry after flush? What is best way to do this? Very novice but I did replace alternator myself. Lady power. Lol
It’s a good idea to try and get as much of the tap water out of the system as possible. I basically used my mouth and blew through the hoses, doesn’t take a lot of effort or pressure to do so.
@@Georgia4Lowcouldn’t you just cycle coolant through it to get the water out?
Yes you could.
When you’re flushing your heater core would you want to have the flow going the opposite way 🇨🇦
Yes, it’s called back flushing.
I switch back and forth on this type of core, I use a pulsating drain clog tool on a piece of garden hose. Works awesome
I just put in a new radiator and need to do this while it's still clean. When you did this flush how much coolant/water did you add back in? Or did you just leave water in and not mess with adding more coolant?
Not 100% sure how coolant I had to add after flushing the core, it was very little I recall.
Would it be a good idea to backflush the core with hose water as well?
That’s what I did in the video was using the water hose to back flush the heater core.
Hello I have got heat on passenger vents and warm heat/lukewarm on driver side vents do you think the core is clogged?
Yes, try back flushing. It’s pretty quick and easy to do.
I replaced my engine and radiator last year and the only thing left is the heater core, should I put the screen on the return side to catch anything from the core or from the radiator?
If you want to filter the system the filter should go on the inlet line to the heater core. You want to filter out debris before it enters the heater core. I recommend keeping an eye on the filter and cleaning it often.
Could it be a solution for my Wrangler 2012 that is blowing hot air only from the passenger side ? Inconsistent heat from the driving side on the highway and practicly no heat from the driving side when stopping on redlights etc. My engine temp seams to climb a bit up when I accelerate on the highway. Well thanks and I hope it could help me !
Yes that’s a pretty common symptom.
Cool I'll try to flush it soon ! Thanks again @@Georgia4Low
@bouboul282 good luck!! Just remember sometimes the heater core is so packed it might need replacement. And likely to clog again later.
Very informative video 👍. Is it necessary to switch on your heater when flushing ? Pls reply
Love from INDIA🇮🇳
Thanks for watching. This is done on a cold engine not running. No need to turn the heat on.
@@Georgia4Low Thanks a ton 👍👍
So is it sand or scale? sand should not float and would be grainy between your fingers. Just curious. I'm about to do my 2013.
Rob Phillips I don’t think it sand or not 100% sure. It appears to be more of a byproduct that dropped out of the coolant.
Thanks. Reminds me of panning for gold.
lol, yes in deed. Thanks for watching
Two Questions: 1: Do I also have to flush my radiator when I do this? 2: Can I use distilled water instead of tap water? Thanks for the info!
Robert Bettis It would be best to flush the radiator and engine block if you have debris found in the heater core. Distilled water would be preferred if you can figure out a way to Force it through the system under pressure. I was able to blow out most of the tap water. Thanks for watching
When you first show the engine, at the 5:05 mark, you already have the clear hose hooked up to the lines. It's kind of hard for me to see, is the coolant line that flows in the closest to the driver's side when it goes into the firewall? And is the coolant that flows out closest to the passenger's side when it goes into the firewall?
Yes the passenger side on the fire wall is coolant inlet.
Kevin Maher watch the video again and look at how I have the clear flush lines connected. I mention which is coolant in or outlet as how they come off the engine. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching
Dirt Hammers Off-Road Thanks. I had same question but you are right...you do state which is inlet and which is return. My wife would say I wasn’t listening. 😀. Drivers side heat is only pushing about 100f heat on my 2013 JKU. Passenger side is fine. 127F
Mr Burns thanks for watching... mine has been working great and the filter is doing its job as well.
My JK has been running warm but not overheating, now the heat is hit or miss. I wonder if this will solve both issues. Anyone else having temps 230+ in 70degree weather?
I’ve this before if a heater core was completely clogged. Also this happened on my Jeep once the filter screen I installed in the video would become full and needing cleaned. Flush the core and test drive afterwords.
Do you know if the blend door arm rotates 360 degrees when detached from actuator? I have a feeling my blend door itself might be broken since there is heat in pipe going to and from heater core?
Sorry but I don’t have any experience with a faulty blend door. Seems like I saw videos around UA-cam regarding Jeep blend doors, I’m sure you can find something. Wish I could help.
@@Georgia4Low Thank you for taking the time to respond. Your videos are great quality!
@@TheDlingo thank you for the support
Do you know what's feeding the second return that merges with the metal heater core return pipe? Is that coming from the EGR cooler?
Sorry not 100% sure
I’m about to try it very good video
thank you for watching
For sure we have casting sand in our 2013. I’m not sold on the screen in the hose fittings. Seems too restrictive.
The screen worked great for filtering out the debris but it required cleaning frequently until all the debris was filtered out. I have since removed the filter, system works great. Thanks for watching
so I've been doing this now for seven years it really sucks that I have to do this every single time on my Jeep. what I ended up doing was using some CLR and a transfer pump into the heater core and I got a lot of crap out. hopefully this will be the last time I have to do this but I doubt it I do like your idea about the screen never thought about that I might try that next time if I have to do this again which I've most likely will I just don't want to have to drain the coolant again. but really good video
I also ended up using distilled water to clear all the CLR out of the heater core. to make sure I didn't introduce any CLR into the cooling system I got buckets of distilled water and flushed clean distilled water three times.
The filter screen worked and worked really great. Be warned that once the screen clogs engine temps rise up enough to turn on the fans. Clean screen and all good again. I removed the screen after about two months of filtering. At first I had to clean the screen within 50miles and then I got where I could go 150 miles before clogging. Best move I think I made was switching back to green old school coolant. I just flushed mine again this week and got only some small particles out. I want to do the CLR trick with a pump just to ensure it’s flushed and clean. What pump did you use and where did you get it?
I found this one www.harborfreight.com/110-hp-transfer-pump-320-gph-63317.html?_br_psugg_q=water+pump and then i used a gallon of CLR and a gallon of Distilled water. From there I created a loop into the heater core and would run maybe 20 mins or till the foam was over flowing the 5gal bucket and let it sit for 30-40 mins depending on how long it took the foam to go away. I would then start the process all over again till nothing but mixture would would flow then I would stop and start the opposite direction, following the same process of stopping when the bucket is either full of foam or nothing but the mixture came out. Part of the fact is my dumb a$$ used tap water the last 3 times I flushed my coolant just cause it is a matter of convenience. So because of that I did this for a little over a day, which was prolly overkill, but its a 2012 and I am sick of not having heat.
Well just a little update, this worked for a few weeks, now I got something still not letting the coolant through. the inflow is hot as hell, but the return tube is cool to the touch. So my thought might be to do the filter screen like you did. But here is my next question, mine is a 2012, this video is now a year old, what is your year review since it is now getting to be colder. Do you feel that the filter screen is gonna be your forever solution so during the colder months you will constantly have to clean the screen? In your update video a comment you posted said that you took the screen out for the summer. Do you have an update now that it is cooler again, did removing the filter screen for the summer result is the crud coming back? Or by using the filter screen last year and moving to green coolant result in over time the crud really was removed. Thanks!
If your heater core is clogged by casting sand, your radiator is also clogged. Check if your upper radiator hose collapses when the engine is hot. If so, the radiator is clogged. The thin water pump seal will fail on the suction side and introduce air into the system thus reducing hot coolant into the heater core. If you have never ending bubbles in your radiator it can only come from 2 places. Head gasket or suction side of the water pump.
Thanks for the additional tips. I flushed the entire system to ensure.
pretty awesome idea. have you pulled it from inlet side yet to see if its caught anything?
Yes I have cleaned it several times ua-cam.com/video/DWqi8JaESQE/v-deo.html I have almost captured all of the debris. So it’s working. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the instructions!
Thanks for watching
I am having major overheating issues while driving my 2012 Wrangler. Had an issue with it overheating while in park or just idling about a month ago. That time it ended up being the fan. I also replaced the thermostat. Was running fine until about 2 weeks ago. I posted on Facebook and about half the comments said it was casting sand. I tried this method of flushing out the heating core but had virtually no “gunk” come out. Other than a little gunk at the bottom of my coolant overflow reservoir I don’t see any signs of casting sand. Could the problem be my water pump? There is no leak.
The cooling system could have air trapped in the system. Here’s how to purge air. Start Jeep and let it idle or take it for a short drive to get it up to temp then let it completely cool down. Once completely cool remove radiator cap and add coolant. Repeat this process until you can no longer add coolant. How hot is it running? How many miles on it? Yes it could be a water pump.
Dirt Hammers Off-Road I don’t have a temperature gauge to measure just how hot it’s getting. When driving at a constant speed it sits on or over the 1/4 mark. It has just over 128,00 miles on it.
Kayla Garcia my 2015 JK had a digital temp gauge, gotta scroll through the menu options on the steering wheel. The fan is working correctly now?
Dirt Hammers Off-Road Yes fan is working fine now. I’ve scrolled through all of the menu options on my steering wheel. I don’t think the 2012’s have the temperature gauge other than the gauge that tells you what the temperature is outside. At least my 2012 doesn’t have it unless there is a secret menu lol.
Kayla Garcia go through the process I mentioned to make sure all the air is out of the system.
Do you still use the green stuff since making the video? Interested to do all of this on my 2017 Willys and was thinking about the green stuff to avoid dealing with the crap that is in the new stuff.
Yes still using the green coolant. The only down side to green coolant is you need to change it more often. Works great though!!!
@@Georgia4Low thanks, I will go that route!
Eric Parisien just try and flush every bit of the factory coolant.