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Hello, I have the same Monport K40 laser, but I am unable to even cut just a 3mm piece of white cast acrylic in one pass at your approximate settings. I have tried most every combo of speed/power from 8-15mm/s and 25%-70% pwr, but it takes many passes to finally cut through, and it is not a very clean cut after that many passes. This is with the mA power knob on the top of the machine set at full. I researched as much as I can to find out a solution and am still waiting to hear back from Monport. I did find one video where someone pointed out that the S value setting under ‘machine settings’ should match the S value setting under ‘device settings’ in the settings tab of LightBurn. He found that his machine setting was at 10,000 but his device setting was at 1000, so he was only getting 10% of the potential power available. When he matched them at 10000, it was night and day - it cut great! I checked my settings and both of mine are the same value, but they are only 1000 each, instead of 10,000. Now his laser was not a Monport K 40 - I think it was some other brand and I’m not even sure if it was a K 40, so I thought perhaps the 10000 might not apply to our Monports. Then I found in the Monport operating manual that came with the K 40 on page 26 it states that you can change the S value, and increase it by 500 to 9000 more. The setting it showed in the picture in the manual showed it at 1000, so I think you can actually increase it to 10,000. But I am very leery to do so because the wording is fairly ambiguous in their manual as it goes through the translation process… Could you do me a favor and please check exactly what your settings are for those 2 s-values in your device and machine settings tab? Thanks, I just don’t understand why this thing won’t cut very well. I cleaned all the lenses, aligned all the mirrors so it comes to a small point in all locations, and did a ramp test to determine the focal length. Everything seems setup correctly - just not getting the thing to cut right! Thanks - I enjoy your videos!

I had given up on using my camera much, but I see now several calibration steps I need to do better. Thanks for the detail!

Do you cut metals and gold?

Thanks 👍🏼 that's great review I was looking for

I upgraded to Lightburn 1.7 and can't find the fire button in the device settings as before, do you know where it's at now? Thanks.

My pro 45 red dot does not align with the laser beam, how do I fix that? Thanks

Thank you for this. This will be my first laser cutter and you've shown me this is a good balance between features and price.

I just purchased my onyx today. I see that you said its a little off on the trace feture. how did you/would you fix this issue? Do you re-do the camera set up again?

The gauge that came with the kit would you be able to put the dimensions of it on here. Mine didn’t come with the kit and I have reached out to atomstack. But no help. I maybe 3D print one if I had the dimensions. Thanks

How do you move the head to the spot you want it to frame? When I use my diode I just grab the head and move it to the spot. Can I do the same with this one or must I use the arrows on the panel? Thanks.

I know this video is 2 years old so not sure if you will see this! Anyway in a reply you mentioned having just finished a video on just specifically calibrating a rotary tool. Did you ever post that video? I am unable to find it. If possible could you (or anyone!) provide a link? Thanks!

What power cord does this take and power jack size? I thought I was buying the pro but I ended up with the D1 with no power supply and I can't find what I need online or the right size. Please help

Great tips about that testing jar! Comparing these modules, what was the difference in processing times?

I have the Xtool s1 20 watt and I bought the riser base. I’m afraid to attach it as it states it takes the laser from class 1 safety to class 4 (best to worst). Is there any way to seal the gaps as I don’t plan on using a conveyer - just want to get more space between the bed and module head.

I did everything you had said. Started my wood. But it cut all the way through. Mine is a 20 watts. Should I have gone to 50 ?

I received my reno pro 45 and would like to see a video on how to use the onboard menu. I see there is so many settings and the manual it came with did not address the menu. Thanks.

Where is the best place to purchase replacement mirrors for Monport C02 units?

are you still happy with your Cloudray?

Hi, can please share some prefered focus distance to cut plywood? manual said only 5mm+. i have 36w version primaryli want to cut 3-6mm plywood tables. tried up to 10mm already, but still burn the target, dirty cuts....

Great video- thanks for sharing!

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I can't hear anything in the video

Because CO2 laser wavelength at 10,640 nm requires no special preperation to engrave glass because at that wavlength it is opaque and absorbs all the light energy, . A diode laser operating at 455nm wavlength is exactly the opposite (as you mention) and is transparent and does not absorb any light energy. Thus it requires a surface film to absorb the light energy,and convert it to heat energy that in turn damages the glsss. This is an excellent exploration of some of those heat transfer materials and compares how efficiently they damage the glass surface. Tempera paint works because the black pigment is carbon, a great energy transfer medium. The black poster card will have carbon in its pigmenetd surface also. The cold galv paint is typically 95% zinc micro particles and zinc is also a pretty good light energy absorber at 455nm. The surprise was the chalk paint, particularly how white, crisp and uniform that result was. When I looked up the absorption spectrun for CaCO3 (calcium carbonate) I found it was similar to carbon black pigment (tempera paint), titanium dioxide and magnesium oxide. So these are materials I will have to examine further. Your painstaking thoroughness with each method is to be priased and the time you dedicated to this task has stimualed many questions beyond smple visual comparison Your results have provoked me to test additional energy transfer materials and investigate why some materials/methods produce different shades of grey/white on the same sheet of glass. . Maybe it was just the light but the text on the dabbed tempera text seemed the whitest.

Thank you for the attention to detail you give in your videos. Its definitely appreciated 😊 I think I'm going to get to 65w

Hi I'm looking at the monport Reno 65w desktop I haven't seen any reviews I'm only comparing it to the Reno 45 only with more power so in future would you be doing a review

Thank you for this informative video

Great video. Thanks for the info. I have a d1 pro 20 watt. It engraves perfectly. I'm having some trouble when it comes to cutting the piece out. I seem to always have the laser leave a burning around the edge. I think it's due to the fan moving the flame across the patch that is being cut since it only happens on the side opposite the fan. Of course, when I turn the fan off, it still does this. Any thoughts, advice, suggestions? Thanks!

I just ordered this exact laser and modules (haven't received it yet). Based on this video, I'm concerned that I wasted money by ordering the IR module in addition to the 40w module. Is there a purpose to use the IR module over the 40w module? Thanks for helping;ping a beginner!

I can't figure out how to upload my own images. It makes me fill in every single box and select a cutlab only file AFTER I've already selected my upload file.

Can I ask a favor 👉🏻👈🏻 can you plug the enclosure usb ports directly into a computer and see if windows recognizes it as a camera? I believe I have a defective safety enclosure and LP support is yanking me around blaming my LP5 saying it’s not compatible. When I plug the enclosure into my computer just for fun it says the device is malfunctioned, just curious what a known working one says. Merry Christmas!

Thanks buddy

How about making a video on cleaning the laser head fan and lens window? Thanks Tim

An outstanding presentation - thank you

Hi Greg, thank you for your consistently amazing videos! Wishing you all the joy and blessings of the holiday season!😊🌲🌲

Is better than co2 about the clean of final result

The camera looks like it speeds up layout- thanks for the video

I have put off using the rotary for my Onyx for a year. With major help from your video, I finally took the plunge and ventured into doing some tumblers. Yeah, I had to do some experimenting, knowingly wasting a perfect good tumbler (now my new practice tumbler), I now have got a good handle on getting great results. Thanks!

I do appreciate the time you spend on testing the various methods to laser engrave (etch) glass. My comments are a bit off topic, but, I do receive excellent results with the black Tempura paint that provides a nice, white etch, BUT, to achieve the best results, I have to use my airbrush to apply several, 3,4,7 coats to achieve a good thickness that works great. Now, I have just tried a single coat of the cold galvanized - Rust-oleum - and setting my 30 watt Longer B1 laser to 4000 mm/min, 80% power, with a .08 line interval, I do get a very nice black etching. As I was expecting a "white" etch, I'm liking the black finish that my test glass showed. I have also tried the TiS02 on glass and to receive the best results, a thicker coating works best for me. My white 4x4 ceramic tiles result with a great black finish and again, a thicker coating is the trick with a "too light" of a coat giving a splotchy uneven black result. The TiS02 that I tried on an old hot sauce bottle did result in a black etch, but, I could/should have used a thicker coat to have a "more dense" black burn. Whatever coating that you use, the hardest part is to apply your mask in an EVEN coat that is "thick enough" to achieve the best results. Thanks again..... Hank

Hi, can I ask you if the xTool 1064nm Infrared Laser module is compatible with the normal xtool D1?

A point if note. I watched this with great interest since getting my K1 PRO 48/24. What you don't mention in this excellent video is that applying the x axis correction for the crosshair is that it eats up the available work space on the right side by that amount. My previous laser had a true 400mm X 400mm work space which I was fully able to use. When I apply my +53mm correction on the X-Axis on my new K1 it eats up the 410mm X 410mm to become 410mm X 360mm so now many of my saved projects that were made to maximize available space get out of limits errors when I use the cross hairs. That was one of the reasons I bought this machine was to use the cross hairs with a camera . Since losing this space I don't use the cross hairs for most jobs and just go with a 1% laser fire to position my work piece. I value a larger work area over everything else.🤔😪

I have obtained great results with the black Tempera paint when applied in somewhat thicker coats. To that end, I did use my airbrush to apply several coats and this method did provide a smooth, even coat. I tried to use a foam brush and the subsequent coats had to be applied quickly as they wanted to dissolve the previous coat,(s), and it was difficult to obtain a good, even coverage. Looks like you used the "blue" spray chalk and am thinking that a black colored chalk spray would give better results? Thank you for performing most all the different tests that I would have had to perform myself, and, for the simplicity of application and cleanup, (the airbrush is a PIA to clean), the spray chalk - BLACK - will be my next test masking. Most importantly, for any masking agent you may want to use, performing a "material test" is really mandatory to discover the burn settings you laser will perform best at. Thanks again....

Can you assist me with meetk40t using Lightburn I seem to have it setup but no movement I have a Basic Reno

Does the color of the spray chalk matter?

Nice review. Definitely much higher build quality than the usual K40. It would have been nice to know if the control board is Lightburn compatible or not (I believe it is). Looks like they have incorporated some of Russ Sadlers suggestions that make mirror alignment much, much, easier. Overall I would recommend it based on what I see in the video.

Nice review- refreshing to see someone sharing their honest experience- keep up the great videos

I really like the adjustable bed as well as the larger window to see what's going on. I have a feeling that bed might be limited though and you won't be able to put larger items in there or use a roller.

Is there a white color for this

Great video- straight to the point

Hi Greg - do you have a list or link anywhere on here where you ordered your magnets, etc? I've done a couple searches through your videos, but not finding it. I ordered some on amazon, but they were tiny - I didn't pay close enough attention, but would love to order the red magnetic strips you use. Thanks again - loving your page.

Thank you for showing the metal business cards - I was struggling with getting a setting that works well. This video was such a huge help!!!