2 25 Petrol engine strip down Part 2 Stuck piston removal!
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2021
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I'm doing the exact same job today. 1974 Series III, 2.25L
That stand is like Arkwright's cash register.
So jealous of the 'Big Bertha'!
'tis a beast but gets even Loctited crank bolts off!
Such a lovely, well engineered and simple engine the 2.25. Think after being overlooked for so long by many in favour of more performance / economy, it’s coming into its own.
I was thinking exactly the same....
Yeap they were quite will made - just a pity they didn't do replaceable liners
I always wanted to add a supercharger to my 2.25, but the project was a bit over my head . Maybe something for Mike? ;)
Yes replaceable liners would have been great for in field rebuilds. But a heavily damaged bore can be sleeved in a machine shop if needed and let’s face it they are such a tough old lump that even with quite heavy wear they can still perform quite acceptably, with minimum oil burning. How far are people going to drive one these days Mike? If they give it even a bit of care not far enough to need a second rebuild I’d have thought.
I find the 5 bearing has better material for the castings - same as the 2/300Tdi - hardly need reboring except for damage - this one has corrosion pits in one bore - rest are great - no lip and parallel
Guys put a like ... He got so many views.. not so many likes!!! Come on! Be fear ok?
I see so much crap with 1M views.. but it's just a story.. here we get the job done folks!!
Yeap, but I do not worry so much, as long as I have a faithful few!
This is very seeing Interesting to see how these older engines work you made me laugh when you said about the eagle beaks I love those grips whatever you want to call them I find them very handy I keep a pair in my kitchen for anything from opening a tight screw on bottle stopper to doing up nuts and bolts great invention.
One of my favourite engines. Never had problems with a military 2.25. The ones on the SAS pinkies where allegedly tuned too, excellent turn of speed whilst following one in my half ton from Blackburn to leuchars for an air show.
Thanks Mike. 👍🏻😊
Flippin heck Mike, you are taking me back some years with this strip down mate. One thing that I always did when I rebuilt these engines was change the element type oil filter assembly for a canister type, most filter assembly's off British engines would fit but the best were off a Ford D engine as they were quite large and worked better as they weren't worked as hard as a smaller filter. One week-end I rebuilt an engine but couldn't get hold of a set of core plugs. I was stuck for just one, I made it out of a bit of 2"x"2 wood, fitted the engine in the motor with the intension of fitting a good core later, it looked really well as I had sprayed it with silver paint. I never did change it and the wooden plug stayed with that motor for many, many years. Many thanks for the memories Mike, I really do enjoy your videos, I'm just watching to find out off this video what I used to do wrong back then. Yorkshire Rob.
I have an assembly from a Turbo diesel so the screw on cartridge is going to be fitted - the elements were too messy!
I got the screw on assembly from (I believe) a Canadian company.. rocky mountain I believe they were called.
Just be careful you get it on the right way round! Early ones were not marked and you can cut off oil supply!
Watching this with interest! Thanks for this Mike :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
We call them “gland pliers” or “Hen’s Legs” chicken legs!
The 5MB 2.25 Petrol Engine is one of the best most robust & reliable engines Land Rover ever made, runs even when very tired & seriously worn!
Not powerful, certainly not economical but bloody strong, very reliable, easy to fix, simple to maintain and cheap to rebuild.
If it wasn’t for the sub 20 mpg why would you want anything else?
I can vouch for this. My lightweight was sitting unused in the elements for 10 years when I got to it. It fired up after minimal work and has 125 psi compression all round.
Excellent work Mike a pleasure to watch I'm putting my new camshaft in tomorrow on my 2 25 I'll try not to throw things whilst trying to get the skew gear grub screw aligned
Yes - that is fun eh?
I hate those engine stands ! Nearly took a knee out with a Ford cross flow engine before lol. Lovely work mike !!!
They are the pits of a stand - on the stand I made which has the 300Tdi on, I made a flat plate and worked out the centre when the engine was complete - so easy to spin round - Think I will copy it for this stand
Also mine has 4 swivel castors so far simpler to move
We call those pliers, multi grips down here in oz.
Looks like English sports car/tractor engine.
Mike. At least double row timing chain ! Did it smell like the Yorkshire Dales in 1980 at "All Creatures Great & Small" ? V.
Deep creep,. I thought you were talking about my local member of parliament..
You forgot to remind us where to buy one of those universal removal tools.... I was thinking you might be able to name your Vapor Blaster Vicks....
Bad news! There are no more supplies of the dismantling tool at the manufactures - 3 week back order! ( which is why I didn't mention them!)
After seeing this do you recommend always using anti corrosion antifreeze for cooling then ?👍🇬🇧
Totally! Antifreeze is not just for the cold
hello Mike, i see some clowns have put the wrong sealant on the sump gasket, we used to use blue hyloma non stick sealant on the series 2a and 3 vehicles during the 70s and 80s
Well it didn't leak!
Mike I've found that even with the right mix of "anti freeze, anti boil" corrosion still attacks the core plugs.
Even seen really nice clean plugs over the majority of the surface with just one small corroded bit at the bottom, I suspect some electrolytic action. How much O/S will the bore need to clean up?
I'm sure I have seen stainless steel core plugs some where...
Pays to get quality antifreeze and check the anti corrosive properties
Are there differences between the 2.25 and 2.5 other than displacement?
Not much - the timing tensioner is a totally cheaper affair
Mike, are those cylinder sleeves dry or whet sleeves ?? I'm eager to see the complete engine rebuild. Great video!
There are no liners on these - so you have to bore the blocks, but once you reach the limit, you can press a sleeve in
IF they had dry liners it would have been quite an easy job in situ to rebuild ( less crank main bearings)
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you Mike. I have a job waiting for me on a 5 bearing 2 1/4 diesel engine, and I guess I'll have to rebore.
Is it a military engine with the double pulley on the front? How do you get the pulley off? I remember fighting with it for ages, as pulling on the edges with a puller would break/ crack the edges..
Not a military but had power steering - this one came off fine
@@BritannicaRestorations oh, the luxury!! I went from Basil fawlty to schwartsenegger in the space one one Corsican holiday, with all the little twisty roads...
How can they leak oil then when the sumps are a pig to remove?
This was fitted from the factory - lot of leaks come from poor fitting
I think the leaks were carefully engineered into the engines, if the sump were to leak, then the official leaks wouldn't work anymore.
@@rdflo6739 lol! I think you are bang on the money there!
Were these petrol engines also used for for the diesel version Mike?
They actually were designed as a Diesel and then converted to petrol in the late 50's early 60's - they is why the blocks are so strong
@@BritannicaRestorations ahh right, interesting, I thought they looked the same