I just got my block and head back from the shop, it's a petro 2.25L. The bill is a little vague. They were to check and go over the head as needed. It has been dressed up for proper fit. The engine was hot tanked, cylinders honed, new fitted cam bushing, piston bushings, freeze plugs. Cost 645.00. I have know the two brothers at the shop for a long time, great reputation. Now for the fun stuff.
Installed perfectly with one mil relief👍🏻 I usually go with brass over steel and never stainless plugs and my favourite sealer of choice is Aviation gasket goo it's never let me down yet and it's great for water pump gaskets👍🏻😁
As a tip for painting engines, 2 pack will handle the heat just fine, I've painted a few bike engines with base coat and 2pack lacquer, handles the heat perfectly, even around the hottest parts of the head near the exhaust ports.
Probably charged you extra for the "long weight" and the "grinding sparks". I think all the good old engine reconditioning business have gone Mike. Nobody wants to do the work anymore, yet it's some of the most satisfying work an engine fitter/machinist can do.
Smooth Hammerite works well on blocks and heads - temperature resistant and doesn’t stain from oils. I did a 12J in red and black and a 200Tdi in silver (aerosol, to avoid streaks) and all stayed unblemished. It also works well on brake callipers, and is cheaper than most brake paints.
@@BritannicaRestorations, that’s the original finish, but the smooth has been common in the UK for around 30 years. It’s what most novices to car rebuilds or restorations used to paint their chassis, poor fools!
Mike. You have mentioned about frost plugs a few times. Well your good with your experiments if you ever get a old block why not let your follows see. Cheers Mike. N
Sounds like a by the book person has moved into the firm ! Looking to make more money ! Totally agree about the valves nowadays. I’ve got a valve grinder but in most workshops now they’re relegated to a door stop
There's another LR channel where the guys motivation for doing his own repairs and maintenance was that LR Germany charged him for moving his car from the front of the building to the workshop floor.
Yes common practice - your time sheet starts when you leave the shop to pick up the vehicle - also no work should be done outside the workshop - so to change the oil filler cap on a 300Tdi will be billed at 0.10 hours!
Bloody hell... surprised they didn't charge for elbow grease!! Naughty given they should have waited for you to get in touch. I'd have refused the cost of half what they did without asking. If they say no then you tell them that's the end of your business together.
I think it was hidden in there somewhere - and what pissed me off the most was the attitude they gave - they could not give a toss - not grateful for your business - I see this a lot nowadays
@@BritannicaRestorations Very true mate, i think business’s forget how valuable it is to keep customers happy. Especially ones that will potentially have more work for them in the future.
Timely video, waiting for my 2.25L engine from the shop and will have to do this job soon. My engine was ex-military and had the duck egg blue colour on it, could not find any engine paint on this side of the pond in that colour, so I opted for GM Diesel Alpine Green, which they happily sold at $10 a can which is cheaper than other brands of engine paint. Question is there a reason you have not painted the frost plugs?
What's the plan for this one, Mike? If you want to tie a bow around it and ship it over here to Kenya I reckon it would look right tidy in my Series 3 :). I can confirm that "frost plugs" don't save engines. I ruined an AMC 258 Jeep engine by leaving it filled with water on a freezing night in Virginia. And it doesn't take a -40 night, mine cracked right where you indicated on just a -2 C night.
Only the US call them frost plugs. They’re actually called core plugs and are just for manufacturing purposes, nothing to do with the cold, just like Mike said.
The Zenith was a terrible carb - decent in its day but the castings warped badly later and you had a hard time adjusting the mixture as petrol would seep past the gasket
Charges are a bit like the legal "profession" in the UK. Apparently they can charge you for thinking about your case whilst Walking their dog. It's coming Mike...
$31 for deburring is cheap. Go around a block and deburr all holes on machined surfaces and remove all swarf, cannot be done in five minutes. Sorry old boy, but I think you have over reached here. Why would you rebuild an engine and not resurface the cylinder head and cut the valve seats? Cheap insurance. If you did it on the side of the road maybe, but you are a professional. You know that everything takes time, you get paid for your time. if you start quibbling about the time it takes to do detailed work you are on the race to the bottom and that is a vortex that you will be sucked down in to. I know you respect good work and this video seems incongruous with your others. The aim of a good mechanic should be aligned with a saying that is attributed to Henry Royce " The quality will remain long after the price is forgotten" , which is a follow up from Benjamin Franklin's saying "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten" For a mechanic to be outstanding they must set themselves above others by the quality of their work. In the long run it provides the best value.
@@BritannicaRestorations I take you at your word and I sit corrected. I understand the mores of doing all you can to keep the price low for the client. I also understand how so often I try to save the client money only for it to come back and bite ME on the bum. Always a difficult balancing act. There is no fat in our industry and having the client pay to do things to perfect spec means that they are just paying for a job you can comfortably warrant, which is what they want, rather than you having to cover with your time and money if anything goes wrong. For if something automobile related can go wrong, it sure enough will do so. I know you know this and I know you understand and appreciate where I am coming from. Some operators seem to get away with daylight robbery, yet if I do not , say, gap a spark plug perfectly it finds a way of coming back to haunt me. I reckon you ken this too. Best regards, best of luck and thank you for taking the time to post your videos.
I just got my block and head back from the shop, it's a petro 2.25L. The bill is a little vague. They were to check and go over the head as needed. It has been dressed up for proper fit. The engine was hot tanked, cylinders honed, new fitted cam bushing, piston bushings, freeze plugs. Cost 645.00. I have know the two brothers at the shop for a long time, great reputation. Now for the fun stuff.
Bloody hell that’s one expensive block 👍🇬🇧👍🇬🇧
Looking good 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Really happy to see the two and a quarter back in the shop. Fantastic.
Thanks Mike. 😉👍🏻
Thanks 👍
WoW looks realy realy red. Cheers King Mike 🥃
We do love a good ramble 👅
Installed perfectly with one mil relief👍🏻
I usually go with brass over steel and never stainless plugs and my favourite sealer of choice is Aviation gasket goo it's never let me down yet and it's great for water pump gaskets👍🏻😁
Great to hear!
As a tip for painting engines, 2 pack will handle the heat just fine, I've painted a few bike engines with base coat and 2pack lacquer, handles the heat perfectly, even around the hottest parts of the head near the exhaust ports.
Thanks for the info!
Hi Mike I was always taught to call them core plugs but your right a lot of shops here in the states call them freeze plugs
Cool, thanks
Love me a nice engine build. BTW, in California we called them core plugs, since there ain't much frost in the desert!
Good to know!
Probably charged you extra for the "long weight" and the "grinding sparks". I think all the good old engine reconditioning business have gone Mike. Nobody wants to do the work anymore, yet it's some of the most satisfying work an engine fitter/machinist can do.
Good thing I didn't ask them to rebuild this engine - would take years!
Smooth Hammerite works well on blocks and heads - temperature resistant and doesn’t stain from oils. I did a 12J in red and black and a 200Tdi in silver (aerosol, to avoid streaks) and all stayed unblemished. It also works well on brake callipers, and is cheaper than most brake paints.
The thinners for Hammerite is quite dear, petrol is just as good and is a lot cheaper. I hope that this info comes in handy for you. Rob.
cannot get the smooth here - in fact we get something called 'hammer finish' not the same
@@BritannicaRestorations, that’s the original finish, but the smooth has been common in the UK for around 30 years. It’s what most novices to car rebuilds or restorations used to paint their chassis, poor fools!
Mike.
You have mentioned about frost plugs a few times.
Well your good with your experiments if you ever get a old block why not let your follows see.
Cheers Mike.
N
Could do - have to be a domestic car as Land Rover stuff here is rare!
That’s crazy! Just paid $300 for new sleeves, crank grind, hone, reseated valves, skim, clean etc ( here is South Africa though )
Would not get a crank grind for that here
I can't believe they had the gall to charge for swarf removal....bloody ludicrous!
It's a joke...
That’ll look excellent when it’s done ! You do seem to have the slowest machine shop in the world
You got that right!
I grew up calling them Welch plugs. In Australia we generally weren’t concerned with freezing
Welch plugs were originally link flat penny washers
Sounds like a by the book person has moved into the firm ! Looking to make more money ! Totally agree about the valves nowadays. I’ve got a valve grinder but in most workshops now they’re relegated to a door stop
Yes they think it is some dark art that they charge a fortune for
Frost plugs happened to make a nice place to seat a heater. I've never seen a motorcycle with core plugs ,but then most are split case like VW boxer.
There's another LR channel where the guys motivation for doing his own repairs and maintenance was that LR Germany charged him for moving his car from the front of the building to the workshop floor.
Mike oglądnij to i co Ty nato ua-cam.com/video/V2cBTlLCKjU/v-deo.html
Yes common practice - your time sheet starts when you leave the shop to pick up the vehicle - also no work should be done outside the workshop - so to change the oil filler cap on a 300Tdi will be billed at 0.10 hours!
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike czy dasz radę włączyć daj znać i obejrzyj to pozdrawiam.ua-cam.com/video/V2cBTlLCKjU/v-deo.html
LRTimes?
Yes
Bloody hell... surprised they didn't charge for elbow grease!! Naughty given they should have waited for you to get in touch. I'd have refused the cost of half what they did without asking. If they say no then you tell them that's the end of your business together.
Yeap I have had enough of them - work is good when they get round to doing it - but added costs are not fun
I used brake caliper paint on the intake side of my turbo, still holding up.
Loctite dries anaerobically... requires no air to dry, so that is why there is always an airspace in all their containers... Called an anaerobic cure.
Oh well…. We all get our pants pulled down now and again!!! 😆
I can take that - but the attitude of the counter staff was awful - I am reluctant to go there again
Im surprised they didn’t charge for writing up the invoice. Anyway looking forward to the rebuild.
I think it was hidden in there somewhere - and what pissed me off the most was the attitude they gave - they could not give a toss - not grateful for your business - I see this a lot nowadays
@@BritannicaRestorations
Very true mate, i think business’s forget how valuable it is to keep customers happy. Especially ones that will potentially have more work for them in the future.
Timely video, waiting for my 2.25L engine from the shop and will have to do this job soon. My engine was ex-military and had the duck egg blue colour on it, could not find any engine paint on this side of the pond in that colour, so I opted for GM Diesel Alpine Green, which they happily sold at $10 a can which is cheaper than other brands of engine paint. Question is there a reason you have not painted the frost plugs?
No reason - they are plated and will get a shot of Krown rustproofing
Hi Mike, are you going to put new pistons in ( oversize), as they bored the block?
Yes 0.020" oversize
We have the core plugs in Stainless steel. ERC4996SS.
I had to put some plugs in a 200tdi once and all I had was Hylomar blue. Do you think that will hold up?
Not sure - never used it on core plugs - in the old days we used to use paint
What's the plan for this one, Mike? If you want to tie a bow around it and ship it over here to Kenya I reckon it would look right tidy in my Series 3 :). I can confirm that "frost plugs" don't save engines. I ruined an AMC 258 Jeep engine by leaving it filled with water on a freezing night in Virginia. And it doesn't take a -40 night, mine cracked right where you indicated on just a -2 C night.
Only the US call them frost plugs. They’re actually called core plugs and are just for manufacturing purposes, nothing to do with the cold, just like Mike said.
Actually, we call them freeze plugs. haha.
Anaerobic locktight mike? Dries without air?
Yeap!
Mike, where would you get this cam bush tool for $35... interested... Cheers.
Saw them on Amazon once - may have gone up now
They could have charged for storage...😉😉
Any idea which carburetor youre going to be using ??
I am just building this for stock - I do not have to 2.25 5 bearing twin choke carb and manifolds would run nice with a Weber on
Hmmm i have mine running on a zenith and its superr slowwww. Price for the twin choke carb is almost the price of used 300tdi off ebay🤣
The Zenith was a terrible carb - decent in its day but the castings warped badly later and you had a hard time adjusting the mixture as petrol would seep past the gasket
Charges are a bit like the legal "profession" in the UK. Apparently they can charge you for thinking about your case whilst Walking their dog. It's coming Mike...
Yeap!
Any plans for a td5 rebuild 🙏
Hardly see any here
Mind boggling how everything costs more, seems like everyone is getting on board with it 🤷🏻
Even me - I cannot absorb much more
welch plug
These are the mainly flat penny washer type plugs
www.kimpex.com/en-ca/products/marine/fuel-air/carburetors-repair/sierra-welch-plug-fits-mercruiser
"I see a red door and I want it painted black. ...". Paint it black by the Rolling Stones.
$31 for deburring is cheap.
Go around a block and deburr all holes on machined surfaces and remove all swarf, cannot be done in five minutes.
Sorry old boy, but I think you have over reached here.
Why would you rebuild an engine and not resurface the cylinder head and cut the valve seats?
Cheap insurance.
If you did it on the side of the road maybe, but you are a professional.
You know that everything takes time, you get paid for your time.
if you start quibbling about the time it takes to do detailed work you are on the race to the bottom and that is a vortex that you will be sucked down in to.
I know you respect good work and this video seems incongruous with your others.
The aim of a good mechanic should be aligned with a saying that is attributed to Henry Royce " The quality will remain long after the price is forgotten" , which is a follow up from Benjamin Franklin's saying "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
For a mechanic to be outstanding they must set themselves above others by the quality of their work. In the long run it provides the best value.
There was no need to machine the head or block - they were prefect
De buring was usually included in the price or reboring as was washing afterwards
@@BritannicaRestorations I take you at your word and I sit corrected.
I understand the mores of doing all you can to keep the price low for the client. I also understand how so often I try to save the client money only for it to come back and bite ME on the bum. Always a difficult balancing act. There is no fat in our industry and having the client pay to do things to perfect spec means that they are just paying for a job you can comfortably warrant, which is what they want, rather than you having to cover with your time and money if anything goes wrong.
For if something automobile related can go wrong, it sure enough will do so.
I know you know this and I know you understand and appreciate where I am coming from.
Some operators seem to get away with daylight robbery,
yet if I do not , say, gap a spark plug perfectly it finds a way of coming back to haunt me. I reckon you ken this too.
Best regards, best of luck and thank you for taking the time to post your videos.