Tackling a frustrating no-start condition and what to look for if this happens to you.
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2022
- Intermittent crank-but-no-start condition. See below for my basic troubleshooting process.
*SEP 2022: problem was a faulty ATEMU from my manual swap. It was bleeding voltage to the NE+ crank sensor pin at the ECU*
PROCESS OF ELIMINATION FOR CRANK BUT NO START CONDITION - BASIC STEPS
Check all fuses, wiring and connections, etc. Ensure fresh fuel is in the car (did the gas station have any recent issues with water in the fuel?). Any recent work or mods done to the car? Scan for codes. If nothing is identified here, move on to the next steps. Generally speaking, the FAST (Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing) technique will reveal the issue, depending on how in-depth you are able to go.
FUEL
Inspect all fuel injectors, wiring and connections
Test fuel pump resistance (ohms)
Test fuel pump operation (+ to terminal 4, - to terminal 5) by attaching leads. Connect + to + of 12V battery. Briefly touch (-) lead to (-) terminal on battery; fuel pump should operate. Per FSM, do not exceed 10 sec of operation while doing this!
Check for voltage from the fuel pump driver with ignition ON (measure connector that plugs into terminal 4 (+) . Should be ~10.5V
Check for voltage from the fuel pump driver while engine is cranking (measure connector that plugs into terminal 4 (+) should be ~10.5V
If voltage is out of spec, issue could be related to FP driver
Reconnect FP if nothing is found
(some may suggest attempting to start the car with starting fluid - if this is attempted, do not spray into the MAF! I prefer to avoid the starting fluid trick, so jump to next steps to see my method)
Attempt to start the car (this should pulse the injectors and put fuel in the combustion chambers).
Pull one spark plug and check for fuel on tip. Smell the tip. If fuel is present, fuel is getting to the rails and into the combustion chamber during cranking. The injectors are firing.
If fuel is NOT present, the condition is preventing the injectors from firing. Check a spark plug on the other bank to determine if the fuel delivery is both banks or just one
If both banks are NOT getting fuel, you may need to check the fuel pressure during cranking, or, the issue is preventing the injectors from firing altogether (safeguard). Possibilities include failure of a mission-critical sensor, fuel pressure regulator, severely clogged fuel pump sock and/or filter, or the delivery line came off, etc
If just ONE bank is getting fuel, then focus on the bank where the injectors are not firing
If the fuel delivery system is delivering fuel to both banks, move on to the next steps
AIR
Check for major obstruction to intake system
Check MAF (resistance check)
Check for major vacuum leak between MAF and heads (note, for a no-fire scenario, the vacuum leak would have to massive) - for example, both IM gaskets missing or broken. A smoke test works great for this
Check all elec connections to throttle body
SPARK (or items that could contribute or cause a no-fire condition)
Crank car with data scanner that has the capability of measuring RPM while cranking. No signal may indicate an issue with the CkPS (jump to CkPS below)
Check all coil packs and connections. Note: car will still run with multiple coil packs unplugged or damaged, but should throw a specific cylinder misfire DTC
With ignition ON, check for 12V at each coil pack (unplug and 12V source terminal).
Inspect CAM Position Sensors (CmPS) and wiring
Measure CmPS for resistance
Inspect Crank Position Sensor (CkPS) and wiring
Measure CkPS for resistance
Measure NE+ and NE- for resistance at ECU
Apply 2ACV to NE+ and NE- at ECU (ECU should return ~1.8V)
Measure VVTi actuators for resistance (B1: ~8.5ohms, B2: 1.3ohms)
Check all spark plugs. Note, the issue will need to be severe in order to prevent the car from firing (such as ALL or nearly all spark plugs incorrect or completely fouled/broken)
Inspect Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS), wiring and connector
Remove connector and inspect terminals on ECTS
Ensure connector is installed properly and secured against ECTS base
Attempt to start car. If the car starts, consider replacement of the ECTS or connector that caused the issue
If car does not start, test the ECTS
Remove ECTS and perform test procedure (test procedure involves how the ECTS reacts to changes with heat baths, suggest to look at procedure on UA-cam). Resistance value should go down with increased bath temperature
TIMING
Check all rotating assemblies on the engine that are monitored by sensors. Check the sensors and wiring and interaction with the ECU.
If FAST does not work, check ECU.
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**SEP 2022: problem was a faulty ATEMU from my manual swap. It was bleeding voltage to the NE+ crank sensor pin at the ECU**
So it WASN'T the temp coolant sensor?
Correct. The problem was that the NE+ bleed issue was happening sporadically. So, coincidentally after I replaced the temp sensor, the car started and drove normally. Therefore I concluded that was the issue and filmed and released the video. Then it turns out that wasn’t my issue. So I had to pin a comment. Nonetheless I went through just about every no-fire troubleshooting scenario I could and at least I was able to share that process.
best lexus tuber 🖖
Good video with good information thank you.
My GS430 left me stranded in downtown Monterey last week because the starter failed lol. Very expensive replacement and tow bill. Luckily it was downtown Monterey during car week and there were SLR Mclarens and million dollar Ferraris parked on the street with me haha so I was in good company.
How many mi did it die at? I have a GS430 also
Makes sense its something you probably touched when you did your supercharger. As for the radiator hose im doing a custom Mishimoto metal rad hose with silicon 1.5 end pieces. I did find a standalone spitronics ECU 1UZFE VVTI kit. I watched a few videos and it pretty much utilizes the crank position sensor, ignition, fuel and keeps rest of your ecu intake. It allows you to control the air fuel mixture with a laptop and looks like might give you more control then a piggy back.
The connection was loose for some reason. Now it’s tight and all good. Regarding the standalone…nice! Just make sure you can retain TBW and VVTi control with it installed. I looked around on the Spitronics site and could not figure out where the VVTi kit was. Post a link directly to it if you have a second. 👍
@@ForwardMomentum As for the connector I had connectors become brittle over time. I got a 98 Lexus GS400 and its just old lol
How do I give you the link if youtube keeps removing it?
If you go to there support there's a firmware update and settings to set VVTI on spitronics website.
My friend found it and shared it. We have some questions out to them like TBW and VVTi, how it would work with the ATEMU, etc.
This was actually a bad connection due to an aftermarket temp sensor (it was labeled as OEM but probably a counterfeit). Now secured thankfully.
thanks for the video! It'd be better if the video showed the actual steps you described. For example, when you describe "Check MAF for resistance", the question is "how?" when there is no video showing it.
great videos, what type of battery do you have in your GS400? I have a Diehard Silver in my 1999 GS400 and I think the CCA are too low for cold days as I experience no starts during below freezing days.
Thanks! I run a Costco (Interstate?) battery. Seems to be fine, but I also notice a bit slower crank when the engine is really cold.
More GS content please!!!
Great video as always! Quick question, what is the name of the company again where you got the touch up paint, you told me before and I forgot 😬
AutomotiveTouchup.com
In my experience the new ECT will fix No Start / Hard start issue AND it will help improve idle and throttle response.
can you explain what this in more detail?
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It’s critical for the engine to run optimally.
Nice! I'm not experiencing this but what I am experiencing is a clicking noise when I turn the key sometimes it starts sometimes I have to turn the key a bunch of times to get it to catch. Already changed my battery terminals and everything still having the issue that and a gas smell that comes and goes as it pleases from somewhere under the hood. I have an 01 gs430
Sounds like the starter to me.
@@ForwardMomentum I'll change it out and let you know the results
Faulty coolant temp sensor will wreak havoc and it's often overlooked
LEXUS GS400 I STILL NEED HELP 😢. Replaced my Fuel pump & the car will start & drive but sometimes when I stop somewhere and get back in the car it won't start up right away🤬. I will have to sit there for 10 or 15 minutes stuck and then it will start up gain. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT MIGHT BE GOING ON PLEASE? 🙏
Greetings Forward momentum I had a question about the GS and wondering whenever you have the time you can respond which I would appreciate greatly so I have a 2003 GS300 and I hear a ticking noise coming from the front left side wheel gap sorta under the car it is difficult to hear when I pop the hood and stick my head in because of the pulleys blocking the noise and the ticking does not go faster when I accelerate only in idle do you have a similar sound or idea? Could it be the fuel injectors? The ticking is slight and only could be heard when parked next to a wall or car so it echoes back. Appreciate any feedback
It sounds like the fuel injection system. If your car has a fuel pulsation damper on the end of the fuel rail, you can consider replacing it to minimize the noise. Easy job. Good luck! 👍
@@ForwardMomentum thanks for the feedback I will look into it ! Thank you 🙏
Just to let u know there is a cam sensor on the passenger side head looks like a crankshaft position sensor
Yep, roger that. Another sensor worth testing.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. My 2000 Gs400 intermittently get stuck in park. I changed out the shift interlock solenoid, brake lamp switch, key interlock solenoid
and the ignition switch (white part behind the key cylinder). Car still intermittently won't shift out of park, needs to use the shift release button.
I'm thinking of checking the body ECU no.2 . Any idea what else to check
Do you hear the interlock release click when it does not work? I’m really not great at electrical stuff. A ground seems like a reasonable check. There should also be a troubleshooting flowchart in the FSM.
@@ForwardMomentum yes I hear it clicking then some days there is no click. Thanks for the reply. I will check schematics
Just curious, what wheels are those you running ?
I believe they came off an early GS350.
Hey I'm have a problem of getting my car started up and the same problem u have I'm having that too
Make sure it’s not the immobilizer, then go through all the steps in the video description.
I have 03 lexus gs430 but I keep blowing efi fuse. I change tps and fuel pump already and it still blowing efi .help any advice
Check EFI relay for proper function.
I have a 94 GS300 with crank, no start. I loosened distributor, rotated it, mo spark. Changed out 4 different ignitors, nothing. Can the coolant sensor also cause it to not spark?
Same but I’m also not getting any signal in my crank sensor even replaced it
I had this happen to me last week, but it only lasted a couple days and it hasn't done it since.
Well my issue just came back yesterday. Car sat for a day after running perfectly, cranks but won’t fire. Replaced temp sensor. Same issue. I’m going to pull my hair out. Seems I have a no fuel scenario, (no fuel in combustion chamber this time). Going to put a psi gauge on the fuel feed first. Then figure out why my injectors are not firing. This sucks.
@@ForwardMomentum So did you find out what it was?
Yes. Comment now pinned at the top. ATEMU was bleeding voltage to NE+. ATEMU replaced and all has been well.
FWIW, my stock GS400 started to not start when I cranked her. Turned out the engine immobilizer was armed (indicated by the red blinking light on the dash, left of the steering wheel), and sometimes my key won't turn it off when it is inserted into the ignition. The forums say the immobilizer system is a mother to fix, so I hope it doesn't get worse!
Insert Michael Scott..."No God, Please No"
Dyno run?
Nope. Can’t find one local to me.
There are 2 camshaft sensors
I know.
@@ForwardMomentum I'm actually in the process of replacing them and other major parts on my gs
Fun isn’t it? 😆
@@ForwardMomentum always