Forgot to mention that it's best to let your car cool down to ambient temperature for a more accurate pressure reading. The chart in the video is for R-134a refrigerant.
Hey my static pressure is only 70psi at 80f outside temp. But when i turn on my car and ac and plug it, it goes into the yellow 55psi which should mean is overcharged. Idk what to do, should i add more? Or is my problem somewhere else?
@omarct according to the chart you need to add more refrigerant. Does the pressure fluctuate up and down, or it's steady around 55 PSI?... if it's steady the compressor could be going bad.
@@Your-Self To add, the ac is working but the air coming out doesnt feel cold enough, around 60-70f if i had to guess, it takes a long time to cool when it is very hot outside.
@omarct I'd try adding the refrigerant a little at the time because it seems too low. If that doesn't help, you'll need to see a mechanic because the compressor could be weak, or the expansion valve got stuck, or something else... not sure.
@@Your-Self I used A/C Pro as well. Is it possible to accidentally get air in the system when adding refrigerant or is it quite difficult for that to happen?
Dude you save me, money and from goin nuts. I followed AC Pro's instructions and gauge precisely and had no idea I over changed it. Then a/c stopped working and engine fan screaming load for some reason. I really could have kicked myself for ever having done this. Thank goodness I came across your vid, you make it so easy to understand and do! I did the release in 3 stages over 3 days, didn't want to do it all at once. Now the a/c runs and sounds normal, normal engine fan sound and a/c is cold. I'm never doing a DIY a/c charge again :)
Fantastic straight to the point video. I used the static test to find out I was low on refrigerant. I kept adding small amounts of refrigerant at a time until I got it in range. Now my AC is working great, and the clutch does not keep cycling on and off. Thanks for a great video, and keep up the good work.
This tutorial is 100%+ accurate . Extremely easy to follow directions ; I had no trouble whatsoever; got the pressure down to the perfect level in minutes. Thank you for posting this informative video.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! My compressor was cycling and my air conditioning didn't work. I thought that I needed a new compressor (which I didn't have money for) and thought that we'd have to go this summer with no A/C. I found your videos and apparently, I just overcharged my system. I purged some freon and now I have air conditioning this summer. My wife is so happy!
@@jamesfalcone310 ended up needing new compressor and AC expansion valve. Honda tried charging $3800 with six month warranty on parts 👀 my private mechanic did for $1000& parts are lifetime !! Definitely shop around
Wow thank you so much! It's almost impossible to find any useful information on air conditioning. My car's AC was kind of cold (48-50 degrees while driving, not cold at all at idle) and I checked the static pressure was only 70 psi this morning. I added about 2 oz of refrigerant and it's blowing in the low 40's all the time now!
Just found this video after trying to fill my ac up and gotta say, you saved me a trip to the shop. Noticed after filling to what I thought was the right amount the compressor kept kicking on and off in about 1-2 second cycles which definitely felt wrong. Used your method with the car shut off and ambient temperature at 85 degrees and noticed the pressure was like 118 psi. Yeah, that's an overfill. Whoops. Let the pressure back out according to the chart you showed and boom, back to normal. Thank you!
Excellent advice. I was easily able to spot an under-charge condition in my 2005 Toyota 4Runner. I then noticed that the addition of only about 3oz. of R134 produced a 20lb increase in static pressure at 69F, so will try adding another 3oz to see if this gets the equalized pressure up to 70psi, as is suggested by the chart for this ambient temperature. THANK-YOU.
If overcharged and you have a empty can or one that you just used to charge the system, put the refrigerant can in a container of ice and water. the refrigerant , when you turn the valve on the pressure will drop in the system as the refrigerant moves back to the can. Shut valve off when pressure starts to rise and give time for coolant in can to cool more. Repeat until AC is either properly charged or if you went to far remove the coolant can from the ice water and warm up then use valve to put refrigerant back in vehicle. Please upvote this if it helps you legally correct the overcharge issue, bonus you get to keep the excess refrigerant with this vehicle in case you need to add it later.
@John Doe Thanks, I have used it with the R410, it should work with any refrigerant or liquified gas. It is a bonus when staying legal saves you money and saves our Ozone layer.
@@DanO181919 More so than what has already taken place? I notice warnings by Scotty Kilmer with good reasoning about the entire process ua-cam.com/video/_IBFLMYZEzI/v-deo.html .
You just saved my butt lol I over charged it and didn’t know we could drain it without the vacuum was bummed to spend more money on a shop lol thank you !
Thank you so much got in my 2003 Duramax this morning and my static pressure was way off dialed it in without your help I'd be sweating with the windows down again I just subscribe to your Channel thank you again God bless
Thank you, the compressor was cycling on and off, put the guage on it, showed about 55 psi, and it was about 85 degrees ambient. Started it up and started adding 10 sec at a time, and shortly the air began to cool, kept adding until 30 psi on the low side and very cold air. And it stopped cycling at about 20 psi.
You did a fantastic job with this video well planned well thought out you get right to the point and your video matches what you’re talking about 90% of the people on these websites Babylon and on and on and I just don’t have the patience. This one was perfect. Keep up the good work.!!!
Can’t say thanks enough. This worked like a charm! I had my car evac’d and recharged at the dealer after I replaced my condenser and Hi pressure switch. It would work in the shop, but once you’re out in 80+ degree weather, the compressor would turn on for 5-15 seconds and then turn off and just blow the hottest and most miserable air you’ve experienced. Today was 87, so the perfect temp to try this out at. After hooking a gauge up and seeing that the pressure was at the max end of the red I let it out until it was in the green, and my ac blows ice cold again!
This works.Watch the whole video to understand what to do.If not then something besides your pressures are the problem.Thanks good info.Now I'm going to check out your other videos.
Thank u. I just tried your explained method and I had way to much liquid in mine. I removed a lot and will wait until I take a drive to see how it feels. The chart was very helpful. Great video✌🏾
It's important not to remove compressor lubricant when adjusting refrigerant charge, this can lead to compressor lubrication starvation and thus mechanical damage to the compressor.
What A Savior you are my friend ,my 2007 Mustang was slipping with almost 3/16 of an inch , After 30 minutes I even had to take .025 off the hub and scotch pad the faces and Ice Ice Baby Thank you so much! Best regards Brian Bates
Thanks for the info on static pressure testing. I have a 99 Yukon that has very cold rear air and not so cold air in the front. The A/C has always worked great for the 7 years I've owned it. I checked the low side pressure with the engine running and it was cycling between 70 and 35psi. The low side tubing does not get cold either. The car is in good shape and has always been well maintenanced. I will need to do a static test the way you describe here to see if I have lost refrigerant. I also suspect the evaporator may have debris (not likely unless something built a nest in there), or the orofice tube may be clogged but am not sure at the moment. The condenser is clean also. The auto parts store thinks it could be the blendor. I do get hot air when I turn the temp to hot but maybe door doesn't actuate all the way when on cold? Any ideas appreciated. TIY.
I overcharged mine. Clutch kept cycling on and off 10 times/min and only blew cold when engaged. My gauge would read overcharged and then once the clutch on the ac engadged, it would drop down, only to shoot back up once it turned off. I took some refrigerant out of the system and now the ac compressor clutch stays on.
I now have a better understanding after watching this video. For some odd reason, my A/C would work perfectly until it got really hot outside over 95 degrees, and then all of a sudden, the A/C would stop blowing. You can hear everything else work fine like the compressor and other normal components except for the fan wouldn't blow any air, but that could be from a switch or something. Anyways whenever the outside temperature decreases under 90 degrees sunset, then the A/C would work fine like nothing happened. Blows super cold and everything with good air flow. Also, whenever I would leave the inside dash filter halfway out so i would have more air flow where it blows best. I think my pressure levels are off or something.
The pressure level can contribute to the air blowing cooler or warmer. But if the air stops blowing completely, the problem could be with the blower wheel or the relay controlling it getting stuck intermittently.
I was adding refrigerant yesterday and it seemed to get cooler, then a little more and it was blowing hot. Now the compressor is not coming on, so maybe something broke at the same time, or would adding too much cause it to stop coming on?
If the Static pressure is too high, release it first. And the Low side pressure may actually go up into the Normal zone with AC running. If that doesn't work, you probably need the dual manifold gauge to figure it out. There could be a clog probably in the Expansion Valve/Orifice. Or, if the leak is on the Low side, some regular air has been sucked inside the AC system, and the pressure will fluctuate strangely because of it.
This seems like a helpful direction, but cross referencing the ambient temperature chart online seems to produce a different static pressure requirement for every single different chart source
I'm not sure what chart sources you are referring to, but my chart was created directly from the Manifold gauge for R134a. The gauge is not digital, so the STATIC Pressure and Temperature numbers are slightly off. But it's close enough to give you an idea if the system is overcharged or undercharged when using a basic gauge. Keep in mind that the OPERATING Pressure/Temperature chart would be different for each model depending on the fixed orifice or the variable TXV valve.
@@Your-Self I didnt word that very well, I mean every chart I can find, is showing different values. I wanted to find at least one or two claiming the same values with the same temperatures. Random unrealistic examples off the top of my head: I pull up three different charts on google, and I find the column for 90 degrees ambient, chart A says 10lbs pressure, chart B says 15lbs pressure, and chart C says 6lbs of pressure. There is no uniformity across sources, so I'm not sure which one to listen to. I wont be able to get back into messing around with that project until the weekend or the next, so its not terribly important, I think I'll just go with the values you provided. I do appreciate your feedback and making this video, I havent fixed the system yet, but this video helped massively to give me a direction to start
Those charts could be for different refrigerants, I'm not sure. But you don't really need the chart if you look at the picture of the proper gauge. There you can correlate the temperature with pressure. For instance, 90°F (in red), matches with 104 PSI (in blue), but if your pressure is way lower, you need to add some R134a. www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=5i6Jrqkd&id=864E02271F46E43C708750828D071956289B33A2&thid=OIP.5i6JrqkdM7dFhd1ZfjTP9QHaHa&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fsmhttp-ssl-49898.nexcesscdn.net%2fmedia%2fcatalog%2fproduct%2fcache%2f1%2fimage%2f700x700%2f9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2fm%2ft%2fmt0400.jpg&exph=700&expw=700&q=low+side+gauge+manifold&simid=608008562774599586&ck=1E499DBC14A1E63CD3F0B9189C6793A3&selectedIndex=8&FORM=IRPRST&ajaxhist=0
How do you release pressure if overcharged? Hold the valve stem down with a screwdriver? Your video says fix, but you didn't explain how to release pressure.
I saw a comment below that stated "used the same hose the a filled it up with, just took off the refrigerant canister." either pull the trigger without the can or release the valve on guage hose and let freon out; wear gloves or have towel could be cold.
Just would like to know should I turn on AC to LOW to check the pressure on the L refill refrigerant to do this or whenever degrees? Please give me help , thanks
This video shows how to check "Static Pressure" with the AC off when the pressure on your gauge is jumping up and down. If the pressure on your gauge is steady, keep your AC running on maximum.
Ok, so the Temperatureamd Static Pressure are exactly lined up, how about the color its still in the Red is that Good or Bad, you mentioned that you don't have to do anything, wouldn't you want to release some Pressureto get it in the Green Zone, just curious.
Hey quick question, which one should I follow the static pressure or the gauge. I was charging my 2008 GL450 The gauge reading is in the yellow zone (no need of refrigerant) and yet when I tried to turn it off and let it cool down the static is way below the chart based on ambient temp and still blowing warm air when turn back on. Mercedes takes 42 Oz but I charged 4 cans of 12 Oz which is 48Oz so I overcharged. The Low Pressure pipe is even warm to the touch when it should be arctic cold. I guess I have to vacuum a bit and see if the A/C compressor kicks in? But which one should I follow the static reading that says add more? Or the gauge even in green zone (filled) is not blowing cold air. 🤦♂
Not sure what's going on there. You may need a manifold gauge to see the pressure in both the Low and the High sides. If you got a leak, the ambient air could've been sucked inside the system. And that will distort the pressure reading.
The refrigerant dose not cool like many think it absorbs the heat so whatever the temp is outside with the system off should read the same. When the ac is on the refrigerant absorbs the heat in the cabin and dissipates it out of the condenser at the front of the car.
So after seeing your video and others, I can tell the temperature is critical when you work with this issue! I love how you make us feel a little safer and assured using your static pressure technique! At least is gives us a guide without testing the system as it's running! Because I know in spite of the bull mechanics say, there is an element of danger in this! It's an element of danger about any DIY project! And I just not can't even comprehend in my mind why on Earth a professional can put the refrigerant in and say they cannot reverse the process! But I do know the government comes down strong on mechanics who break the law and bleeding off material like this just into the air! I still think the ASE people are full of it
If they told you they can't reverse the process, they are lying. They can bleed a little off into a reclamation tank. It's no different than when they evacuate a whole system with a vacuum pump after doing a major ac repair.
Static pressure is also a good indicator of whether there's a blockage in the system. Depending on where the highest pressure is, you can narrow down what the fault actually is.
@@arnoldg3076 If there was a blockage, there wouldn't be equal pressure between high and low side because they wouldn't be able to equalize. At 70F the pressure reading should be about 71F with compressor off. If the reading is lower then it's undercharged and overcharged if higher. If Low side is higher of the two when given time to equalize then the problem lies where the compressor is and if the High side is lower, it would most likely indicate a blocked condenser or line. These are just general indicators to narrow down the exact issue as the best way is by reading pressures when it's on.
A basic single gauge fits on the LOW side only. To find a blockage, you need a manifold gauge to check both sides. Unfortunately, most people don't have the dual gauge.
@@Your-Self That's true but then again: you wouldn't be measuring static pressure using only one side. With a manifold gauge, you at least have the ability to quickly determine if there is a fault within the system before choosing more invasive steps.
What if it is only 55-60 degrees out ? My ac was working fine up until today. Now it’s only blowing warm air. While refilling it, it would blow cold air out for a minute then go back to warm. I live in Ohio where the whether is cold one day and hot the next.
Just bought a 2010 Nissan Rogue in good condition but the AC blows cool air, not cold air. I'm handy but I've never recharged a system before. I hear it's risky to do yourself but MIDAS charges $200-250 for a typical AC service. Any thoughts?
Okay so if it's to high and not overcharge what do I do never touched my ac and now it's hot and barried in the red and never put a drop of anything any video on how to discharge the pressure?
The AC works the same way on all cars. The biggest difference in the AC system is the (fixed) orifice tube and (variable) TXV, which are not used in this "static pressure" test. The capacity of the system doesn't really matter neither. To improve this test, it's best to let your car to cool down to the ambient temperature (let it sit for a couple of hours.) But of course, it's best to use Manifold gauges to make sure that the Low and the High sides actually equalize.
Hi ! I replaced the whole system and I think the ac shop put too much Freon on the system because is not very cold, where can I get this type of gauge?
You can go to your local auto parts store and ask them for an AC hose with a gauge. Maybe they can check your pressure for free with their own manifold gauge.
Where can we obtain a chart such as this? My clients know we don't do HVAC thus they want me doing it so the least I can do is understand what's going on to provide a better diagnosis and yes, I do have the ac manifold setup. Thanks
I made the chart myself straight from the manifold gauge. And if you have this gauge, there should be the temperature and pressure correlation right on the dial. So you don't even need the chart.
Hi Youself, this is great reading and learning! I have Volvo S80 2008 and AC takes long time to cool down but only to around 30 Celsius. Ambient temperature here in Philippines is 35 Celsius, around 95 Fahrenheit, both gauges show 140psi, which seems far too much. Since I don't have a compressor to pump Freon back into a cylinder, I slightly opened the center yellow nozzle only to find air is escaping, no Freon, it's not cold and invisible. I allowed for 10 min which reduced the pressure to 100psi, still air, no freon coming out. This is worrying me now, hence seeking your feedback before I continue. I didn't run the engine yet. Thanks
At 35°C the static pressure should be around 114 PSI on both gauges. When you turn the compressor ON, the High side pressure should go much higher, and the Low side, much lower. The engine and compressor should be running for you to feel cold air.
@@Your-Self What is with the seemingly normal air that is escaping instead of Freon, is that what was causing the high pressure? I only bought this car recently so I have no vehicle maintenance history.
Hello, so today I decided to see if my ac system was overcharged or not because my ac blows relatively cold air but no heater. When initially using this technique, the static pressure read at about 120 psi (90F ambient), then I turned on the AC at max to let it run and see low side reading, and the gauge sat right at 30. Then I turned it off and left the gauge there. After about 15 minutes, the static pressure reads at about 85 psi. (Still 90F). Which static reading do I go with? First or second ?
That's strange. After running the engine, the ambient temperature should go up slightly, and so should the static pressure. Maybe, there is a clog in the system between the High and the Low sides. So it takes much longer to equalize. That's where a dual manifold gauge comes in handy to verify this issue. If the Low side is, let's say, at 85psi and the High side at 140psi, there is some kinda blockage between the two sides. The static pressure should be about even.
I put 24oz of freon in my blazer, it was to 35 on the dial, the clutch started running constantly. Next day was cooler, but i turned it on to see if was cold, it blew nice n cold, but the clutch was going off n on again ever my 10 seconds or so?? Is this normal, or because its a cooler day? It was 86 when i filled it.?
I am getting a high 80psi reading from the car both with engine running and air on and also with engine off. I wasn't sure if i should try and add any more refrigerant...what do you think ?
@@Your-Self yes but my gage oly goes to 100 psi after that I couldn't monitor anymore. Also I didn't hear the clics it normally does and the swinging of the needle was not happening.
Master, in my sonic the compressor enters all the time but it does not cool because the lines have pure air and I purge it but they fill up with air again, what could it be?
so i bought freon last week and checked the pressure it was at 62 and it was 114 outside that means i need to add freon? i was confused and thought it was overcharged becuase it was in the red so i didnt add any
I have a question hopefully you can help me . I plugged my gauge when my car was off and It showed 70 psi the temperature was 20 Celsius outside. When I turned my car and the AC on it went to zero .Is it normal?. I am just scared if I put some refrigerant the static pressure I going to be too high.
It sounds like you have plenty of refrigerant, so I wouldn't add any. The problem could be with the Expansion Valve or some kind of restriction in the system. The compressor does its job, but the refrigerant gas can't flow through the blockage.
yeah, I think i overfroze my evaporator because I was getting high line medium pressure, eventually, the high line went super and low and was stuck while low side was too high. I hope it's not my new expansion valve or my brand new DENSO compressor. I guess I have to thaw it out. In my past few weeks of constant youtube watching, not one person said how long it should take to empty out a 12 oz can of 134r. I thought I was going slow enough in spurts in recharging, but eventually I felt a stalemate. cuz I did get the high side to go as high as 120 but then it stopped, and reduced to 0 while the low side was way up..I guess I kinda recharged too hastily, but no videos or anyone on forums can go into exact measurements cuz every ac gauge is so different and trial and error is "THE ONE THING, THE ONLY THING....that can stand in my WAY!" - UNICRON
Forgot to mention that it's best to let your car cool down to ambient temperature for a more accurate pressure reading.
The chart in the video is for R-134a refrigerant.
Hey my static pressure is only 70psi at 80f outside temp. But when i turn on my car and ac and plug it, it goes into the yellow 55psi which should mean is overcharged. Idk what to do, should i add more? Or is my problem somewhere else?
@omarct according to the chart you need to add more refrigerant.
Does the pressure fluctuate up and down, or it's steady around 55 PSI?... if it's steady the compressor could be going bad.
@@Your-Self Yes its completely steady.
@@Your-Self To add, the ac is working but the air coming out doesnt feel cold enough, around 60-70f if i had to guess, it takes a long time to cool when it is very hot outside.
@omarct I'd try adding the refrigerant a little at the time because it seems too low. If that doesn't help, you'll need to see a mechanic because the compressor could be weak, or the expansion valve got stuck, or something else... not sure.
We spend $22 on the A/C Pro gauge/connecter and fixed the overcharge. Thank you SO much for this easy to understand video. God Bless!
Great job, and thanks for watching!
Do ac pro gauge reduce the psi automatically?
@@Your-Self I used A/C Pro as well. Is it possible to accidentally get air in the system when adding refrigerant or is it quite difficult for that to happen?
How did you lower the high side thanks
Can you take any out if it was overcharged? I mean without going to a mechanic?
Dude you save me, money and from goin nuts. I followed AC Pro's instructions and gauge precisely and had no idea I over changed it. Then a/c stopped working and engine fan screaming load for some reason. I really could have kicked myself for ever having done this. Thank goodness I came across your vid, you make it so easy to understand and do! I did the release in 3 stages over 3 days, didn't want to do it all at once. Now the a/c runs and sounds normal, normal engine fan sound and a/c is cold. I'm never doing a DIY a/c charge again :)
Glad it all worked out well, and thanks for watching!
Do you release from the low or high side? With engine running or off?
@@rowekmr asking the important questions, pls let me know as well 🥲
@@rowekmr low side only
Fantastic straight to the point video. I used the static test to find out I was low on refrigerant. I kept adding small amounts of refrigerant at a time until I got it in range. Now my AC is working great, and the clutch does not keep cycling on and off. Thanks for a great video, and keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing.
This tutorial is 100%+ accurate . Extremely easy to follow directions ; I had no trouble whatsoever; got the pressure down to the perfect level in minutes. Thank you for posting this informative video.
Glad it helped!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! My compressor was cycling and my air conditioning didn't work. I thought that I needed a new compressor (which I didn't have money for) and thought that we'd have to go this summer with no A/C. I found your videos and apparently, I just overcharged my system. I purged some freon and now I have air conditioning this summer. My wife is so happy!
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
you bled some freon out yourself? no troubles?
How did you purge it ? I added too much and now it's warm and we are headed on vacation 😢
@@jamesfalcone310 ended up needing new compressor and AC expansion valve. Honda tried charging $3800 with six month warranty on parts 👀 my private mechanic did for $1000& parts are lifetime !! Definitely shop around
Your awesome man thank you so much! Over an hour searching EVERYWHERE on the internet and countless videos later..you deserve an award lol
Glad I could help, and thanks for watching!
@@Your-Self Amen brother, you saved me! THANK YOU!
Wow thank you so much! It's almost impossible to find any useful information on air conditioning. My car's AC was kind of cold (48-50 degrees while driving, not cold at all at idle) and I checked the static pressure was only 70 psi this morning. I added about 2 oz of refrigerant and it's blowing in the low 40's all the time now!
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Finally someone who cuts to the chase. Great job!
Just found this video after trying to fill my ac up and gotta say, you saved me a trip to the shop. Noticed after filling to what I thought was the right amount the compressor kept kicking on and off in about 1-2 second cycles which definitely felt wrong. Used your method with the car shut off and ambient temperature at 85 degrees and noticed the pressure was like 118 psi. Yeah, that's an overfill. Whoops. Let the pressure back out according to the chart you showed and boom, back to normal. Thank you!
Great job, and thanks for watching!
How do you let the pressure back out
@@jenniferparis4957 I saw a comment below that stated "used the same hose the a filled it up with, just took off the refrigerant canister."
Thank you! ....your article helped me to add R-134a to my vehicle at the time of this hot weather when it was really needed......Thanks again..
Glad it helped!
Excellent advice. I was easily able to spot an under-charge condition in my 2005 Toyota 4Runner. I then noticed that the addition of only about 3oz. of R134 produced a 20lb increase in static pressure at 69F, so will try adding another 3oz to see if this gets the equalized pressure up to 70psi, as is suggested by the chart for this ambient temperature. THANK-YOU.
Thanks for sharing
If overcharged and you have a empty can or one that you just used to charge the system, put the refrigerant can in a container of ice and water. the refrigerant , when you turn the valve on the pressure will drop in the system as the refrigerant moves back to the can. Shut valve off when pressure starts to rise and give time for coolant in can to cool more. Repeat until AC is either properly charged or if you went to far remove the coolant can from the ice water and warm up then use valve to put refrigerant back in vehicle. Please upvote this if it helps you legally correct the overcharge issue, bonus you get to keep the excess refrigerant with this vehicle in case you need to add it later.
Great technique! Thanks!
@John Doe Thanks, I have used it with the R410, it should work with any refrigerant or liquified gas. It is a bonus when staying legal saves you money and saves our Ozone layer.
Thanks! Does your car need to be turned on during this process?
That could be very dangerous
@@DanO181919 More so than what has already taken place? I notice warnings by Scotty Kilmer with good reasoning about the entire process ua-cam.com/video/_IBFLMYZEzI/v-deo.html .
You just saved my butt lol I over charged it and didn’t know we could drain it without the vacuum was bummed to spend more money on a shop lol thank you !
Thanks for watching!
How did you drain it ?
@@1994Trill used the same hose the a filled it up with, just took off the refrigerant canister
Thank you so much got in my 2003 Duramax this morning and my static pressure was way off dialed it in without your help I'd be sweating with the windows down again I just subscribe to your Channel thank you again God bless
Great to hear!
Thank you, the compressor was cycling on and off, put the guage on it, showed about 55 psi, and it was about 85 degrees ambient. Started it up and started adding 10 sec at a time, and shortly the air began to cool, kept adding until 30 psi on the low side and very cold air. And it stopped cycling at about 20 psi.
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your help. Followed your instructions and my car AC is now cold.
Great to hear!
Very helpful video I didnt realized this gauge could be used and your right didn't want to buy new set of manifold just for a top off. Thank u
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
You did a fantastic job with this video well planned well thought out you get right to the point and your video matches what you’re talking about 90% of the people on these websites Babylon and on and on and I just don’t have the patience. This one was perfect. Keep up the good work.!!!
Thanks for watching!
Can’t say thanks enough. This worked like a charm! I had my car evac’d and recharged at the dealer after I replaced my condenser and Hi pressure switch. It would work in the shop, but once you’re out in 80+ degree weather, the compressor would turn on for 5-15 seconds and then turn off and just blow the hottest and most miserable air you’ve experienced. Today was 87, so the perfect temp to try this out at. After hooking a gauge up and seeing that the pressure was at the max end of the red I let it out until it was in the green, and my ac blows ice cold again!
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much. You explained it so plainly that even a guy like me could repair the last guy's mistake in this ac system.
Glad to hear that
This works.Watch the whole video to understand what to do.If not then something besides your pressures are the problem.Thanks good info.Now I'm going to check out your other videos.
Thank u. I just tried your explained method and I had way to much liquid in mine. I removed a lot and will wait until I take a drive to see how it feels. The chart was very helpful. Great video✌🏾
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
It's important not to remove compressor lubricant when adjusting refrigerant charge, this can lead to compressor lubrication starvation and thus mechanical damage to the compressor.
How do you remove the freon?
Thank you I couldn't tell if I over or undercharged, now I know!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks! This is very good info, on using static pressure readings to get an idea of proper amount of r134a in a system.👍
Glad it was helpful!
This video just ended a wild goose chase to long of a story but gosh thank you!
Glad it helped.
This video is precise and easy to understand! Helped me fix my a/c and avoid $$$ car shop bill!
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Good one. The more pressure I released the colder it got.
I love this video...now I look like a professional ac guy...I will explain it to my wife...then she will think that I am 🤓 smart!!!
LOL, glad it helped!
🤦🏾♂️🤣🤣
What A Savior you are my friend ,my 2007 Mustang was slipping with almost 3/16 of an inch , After 30 minutes I even had to take .025 off the hub and scotch pad the faces and Ice Ice Baby Thank you so much! Best regards Brian Bates
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir this allowed me to figure out my issue now ac is blowing cold.
Good to hear!
WOW! Did that EVER solve my problem! Thanks!
Great to hear!
I thank you so much bro...this is a life saver...my ac is blowing 5x better..
Glad to hear it!
Perfectly explained! Fixed my issue.
Great to hear!
This was information I sure can use, TY sir 😎
You bet!
Thank you!!! You saved me a lot of money!!!
Great to hear!
I had no idea. Thank you very much. very educational.
Thanks for watching!
My homie you just helped me out so much
Thx for the great content
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the info on static pressure testing. I have a 99 Yukon that has very cold rear air and not so cold air in the front. The A/C has always worked great for the 7 years I've owned it. I checked the low side pressure with the engine running and it was cycling between 70 and 35psi. The low side tubing does not get cold either. The car is in good shape and has always been well maintenanced. I will need to do a static test the way you describe here to see if I have lost refrigerant. I also suspect the evaporator may have debris (not likely unless something built a nest in there), or the orofice tube may be clogged but am not sure at the moment. The condenser is clean also. The auto parts store thinks it could be the blendor. I do get hot air when I turn the temp to hot but maybe door doesn't actuate all the way when on cold?
Any ideas appreciated. TIY.
I've been looking everywhere for this chart, thank you, my new found way of charging the system
Glad it was helpful!
Appears to have worked for me! Thanks
Great to hear it!
Thank you so much static pressure very important
I really wish it was that simple. This theory defies gas laws.
I overcharged mine. Clutch kept cycling on and off 10 times/min and only blew cold when engaged. My gauge would read overcharged and then once the clutch on the ac engadged, it would drop down, only to shoot back up once it turned off. I took some refrigerant out of the system and now the ac compressor clutch stays on.
Ok, what did I miss, so if it is overcharged,how to relieve it? And what about the High side?
Thankyou! It worked really well.
Great to hear!
Thanks man you saved me a lot of money
Glad I could help, and thanks for watching!
❤❤❤❤❤❤ Man thank you so much for your video you save me and my wallet
Glad to hear it!
Thank you!your video helped me a lot
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Clear, concise, and to the point. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I now have a better understanding after watching this video.
For some odd reason, my A/C would work perfectly until it got really hot outside over 95 degrees, and then all of a sudden, the A/C would stop blowing. You can hear everything else work fine like the compressor and other normal components except for the fan wouldn't blow any air, but that could be from a switch or something.
Anyways whenever the outside temperature decreases under 90 degrees sunset, then the
A/C would work fine like nothing happened. Blows super cold and everything with good air flow.
Also, whenever I would leave the inside dash filter halfway out so i would have more air flow where it blows best.
I think my pressure levels are off or something.
The pressure level can contribute to the air blowing cooler or warmer.
But if the air stops blowing completely, the problem could be with the blower wheel or the relay controlling it getting stuck intermittently.
I have a set of gages for 134A. I also bought the adapters for my regular gauges. I have yet to find anything that will fit the high side.
Nice information. Such a simple approach. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I was adding refrigerant yesterday and it seemed to get cooler, then a little more and it was blowing hot. Now the compressor is not coming on, so maybe something broke at the same time, or would adding too much cause it to stop coming on?
Perfect chart. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks! Question... What if my static pressure is too high (with car off) BUT my low-pressure is too low (with AC on)?
If the Static pressure is too high, release it first. And the Low side pressure may actually go up into the Normal zone with AC running.
If that doesn't work, you probably need the dual manifold gauge to figure it out. There could be a clog probably in the Expansion Valve/Orifice. Or, if the leak is on the Low side, some regular air has been sucked inside the AC system, and the pressure will fluctuate strangely because of it.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
Lifesaver thank you you're the best.
Glad it helped!
The video is extremely helpful.
Glad it helped!
This seems like a helpful direction, but cross referencing the ambient temperature chart online seems to produce a different static pressure requirement for every single different chart source
I'm not sure what chart sources you are referring to, but my chart was created directly from the Manifold gauge for R134a. The gauge is not digital, so the STATIC Pressure and Temperature numbers are slightly off. But it's close enough to give you an idea if the system is overcharged or undercharged when using a basic gauge. Keep in mind that the OPERATING Pressure/Temperature chart would be different for each model depending on the fixed orifice or the variable TXV valve.
@@Your-Self I didnt word that very well, I mean every chart I can find, is showing different values. I wanted to find at least one or two claiming the same values with the same temperatures. Random unrealistic examples off the top of my head: I pull up three different charts on google, and I find the column for 90 degrees ambient, chart A says 10lbs pressure, chart B says 15lbs pressure, and chart C says 6lbs of pressure. There is no uniformity across sources, so I'm not sure which one to listen to. I wont be able to get back into messing around with that project until the weekend or the next, so its not terribly important, I think I'll just go with the values you provided. I do appreciate your feedback and making this video, I havent fixed the system yet, but this video helped massively to give me a direction to start
Those charts could be for different refrigerants, I'm not sure. But you don't really need the chart if you look at the picture of the proper gauge. There you can correlate the temperature with pressure. For instance, 90°F (in red), matches with 104 PSI (in blue), but if your pressure is way lower, you need to add some R134a. www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=5i6Jrqkd&id=864E02271F46E43C708750828D071956289B33A2&thid=OIP.5i6JrqkdM7dFhd1ZfjTP9QHaHa&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fsmhttp-ssl-49898.nexcesscdn.net%2fmedia%2fcatalog%2fproduct%2fcache%2f1%2fimage%2f700x700%2f9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%2fm%2ft%2fmt0400.jpg&exph=700&expw=700&q=low+side+gauge+manifold&simid=608008562774599586&ck=1E499DBC14A1E63CD3F0B9189C6793A3&selectedIndex=8&FORM=IRPRST&ajaxhist=0
Where did you get that blue hose and gauge from ?
Just what I needed to know !
Thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much! Bleed out the excess when car is on or off?
Keep the car running with the AC on max.
How do you release pressure if overcharged? Hold the valve stem down with a screwdriver? Your video says fix, but you didn't explain how to release pressure.
I saw a comment below that stated "used the same hose the a filled it up with, just took off the refrigerant canister." either pull the trigger without the can or release the valve on guage hose and let freon out; wear gloves or have towel could be cold.
Just would like to know should I turn on AC to LOW to check the pressure on the L refill refrigerant to do this or whenever degrees?
Please give me help , thanks
This video shows how to check "Static Pressure" with the AC off when the pressure on your gauge is jumping up and down. If the pressure on your gauge is steady, keep your AC running on maximum.
Hi and thank you for the video i wonder how to get that guage you are using
can i find in amazon
It doesn't have to be this exact gauge. Something like this should work just fine amzn.to/3oXzAV1
Ok, so the Temperatureamd Static Pressure are exactly lined up, how about the color its still in the Red is that Good or Bad, you mentioned that you don't have to do anything, wouldn't you want to release some Pressureto get it in the Green Zone, just curious.
If the Static pressure (AC off) is in the Red, it's fine. But if the running pressure is in the Red, that's bad.
Hey quick question, which one should I follow the static pressure or the gauge. I was charging my 2008 GL450 The gauge reading is in the yellow zone (no need of refrigerant) and yet when I tried to turn it off and let it cool down the static is way below the chart based on ambient temp and still blowing warm air when turn back on. Mercedes takes 42 Oz but I charged 4 cans of 12 Oz which is 48Oz so I overcharged. The Low Pressure pipe is even warm to the touch when it should be arctic cold. I guess I have to vacuum a bit and see if the A/C compressor kicks in? But which one should I follow the static reading that says add more? Or the gauge even in green zone (filled) is not blowing cold air. 🤦♂
Not sure what's going on there. You may need a manifold gauge to see the pressure in both the Low and the High sides.
If you got a leak, the ambient air could've been sucked inside the system. And that will distort the pressure reading.
Excellent video thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
The refrigerant dose not cool like many think it absorbs the heat so whatever the temp is outside with the system off should read the same. When the ac is on the refrigerant absorbs the heat in the cabin and dissipates it out of the condenser at the front of the car.
So after seeing your video and others, I can tell the temperature is critical when you work with this issue! I love how you make us feel a little safer and assured using your static pressure technique! At least is gives us a guide without testing the system as it's running! Because I know in spite of the bull mechanics say, there is an element of danger in this! It's an element of danger about any DIY project! And I just not can't even comprehend in my mind why on Earth a professional can put the refrigerant in and say they cannot reverse the process! But I do know the government comes down strong on mechanics who break the law and bleeding off material like this just into the air! I still think the ASE people are full of it
If they told you they can't reverse the process, they are lying. They can bleed a little off into a reclamation tank. It's no different than when they evacuate a whole system with a vacuum pump after doing a major ac repair.
Why doesn't the refrigerant leak out through the hose? Is there a one-way check valve in the hose fitting?
Yes.
Other hoses have a trigger that you can squeeze to open the one-way check valve.
Static pressure is also a good indicator of whether there's a blockage in the system. Depending on where the highest pressure is, you can narrow down what the fault actually is.
Hi, how would you know or find where the blockage is, using the static pressure? Wouldn't it have the same static pressure after awhile of sitting?
@@arnoldg3076 If there was a blockage, there wouldn't be equal pressure between high and low side because they wouldn't be able to equalize.
At 70F the pressure reading should be about 71F with compressor off. If the reading is lower then it's undercharged and overcharged if higher.
If Low side is higher of the two when given time to equalize then the problem lies where the compressor is and if the High side is lower, it would most likely indicate a blocked condenser or line.
These are just general indicators to narrow down the exact issue as the best way is by reading pressures when it's on.
A basic single gauge fits on the LOW side only. To find a blockage, you need a manifold gauge to check both sides. Unfortunately, most people don't have the dual gauge.
@@Your-Self That's true but then again: you wouldn't be measuring static pressure using only one side.
With a manifold gauge, you at least have the ability to quickly determine if there is a fault within the system before choosing more invasive steps.
Thanks you explained well, my sistem was over charged
Glad it was helpful!
What if it is only 55-60 degrees out ? My ac was working fine up until today. Now it’s only blowing warm air. While refilling it, it would blow cold air out for a minute then go back to warm. I live in Ohio where the whether is cold one day and hot the next.
When it's 55-60 outside, the PSI should be lower, around 55 PSI for the R134a refrigerant.
Hi, with this procedure of static pressures, does the freon discharge with engine on or off?
Just bought a 2010 Nissan Rogue in good condition but the AC blows cool air, not cold air. I'm handy but I've never recharged a system before. I hear it's risky to do yourself but MIDAS charges $200-250 for a typical AC service. Any thoughts?
Ok my Camaro is for sure overcharged since it was working properly and my friend added 2 whole bottles and now blows hot,how do you fix a overcharge?
Okay so if it's to high and not overcharge what do I do never touched my ac and now it's hot and barried in the red and never put a drop of anything any video on how to discharge the pressure?
Great video help me alot
Glad to hear it!
What make and model of gauge is being used. Mine is different and does not work the same way?
@YourSelf : But isn't it at least 3 variables - (a)outdoortemp, (b)psi, (c)yourmakemodelyear ?
The AC works the same way on all cars. The biggest difference in the AC system is the (fixed) orifice tube and (variable) TXV, which are not used in this "static pressure" test. The capacity of the system doesn't really matter neither. To improve this test, it's best to let your car to cool down to the ambient temperature (let it sit for a couple of hours.) But of course, it's best to use Manifold gauges to make sure that the Low and the High sides actually equalize.
Or you can you a Phillips screwdriver to purge the over charge and check with the gauge.
Thank you for the information
Great tip thank you!
So when I relived them pressure only air coming out no freon. Is the air making the high pressure?
Hi ! I replaced the whole system and I think the ac shop put too much Freon on the system because is not very cold, where can I get this type of gauge?
You can go to your local auto parts store and ask them for an AC hose with a gauge. Maybe they can check your pressure for free with their own manifold gauge.
Where can we obtain a chart such as this? My clients know we don't do HVAC thus they want me doing it so the least I can do is understand what's going on to provide a better diagnosis and yes, I do have the ac manifold setup. Thanks
I made the chart myself straight from the manifold gauge. And if you have this gauge, there should be the temperature and pressure correlation right on the dial. So you don't even need the chart.
Hi Youself, this is great reading and learning! I have Volvo S80 2008 and AC takes long time to cool down but only to around 30 Celsius. Ambient temperature here in Philippines is 35 Celsius, around 95 Fahrenheit, both gauges show 140psi, which seems far too much. Since I don't have a compressor to pump Freon back into a cylinder, I slightly opened the center yellow nozzle only to find air is escaping, no Freon, it's not cold and invisible. I allowed for 10 min which reduced the pressure to 100psi, still air, no freon coming out. This is worrying me now, hence seeking your feedback before I continue. I didn't run the engine yet. Thanks
At 35°C the static pressure should be around 114 PSI on both gauges. When you turn the compressor ON, the High side pressure should go much higher, and the Low side, much lower. The engine and compressor should be running for you to feel cold air.
@@Your-Self What is with the seemingly normal air that is escaping instead of Freon, is that what was causing the high pressure? I only bought this car recently so I have no vehicle maintenance history.
Hello, so today I decided to see if my ac system was overcharged or not because my ac blows relatively cold air but no heater. When initially using this technique, the static pressure read at about 120 psi (90F ambient), then I turned on the AC at max to let it run and see low side reading, and the gauge sat right at 30. Then I turned it off and left the gauge there. After about 15 minutes, the static pressure reads at about 85 psi. (Still 90F). Which static reading do I go with? First or second ?
That's strange. After running the engine, the ambient temperature should go up slightly, and so should the static pressure. Maybe, there is a clog in the system between the High and the Low sides. So it takes much longer to equalize. That's where a dual manifold gauge comes in handy to verify this issue. If the Low side is, let's say, at 85psi and the High side at 140psi, there is some kinda blockage between the two sides. The static pressure should be about even.
If my low line shows that there is 0 PSI and zero freon, would it be safe to disconnect my AC lines form the condenser to replace?
It sounds like your system is completely empty. But I'd still wear gloves and goggles for protection.
I put 24oz of freon in my blazer, it was to 35 on the dial, the clutch started running constantly. Next day was cooler, but i turned it on to see if was cold, it blew nice n cold, but the clutch was going off n on again ever my 10 seconds or so?? Is this normal, or because its a cooler day? It was 86 when i filled it.?
I am getting a high 80psi reading from the car both with engine running and air on and also with engine off.
I wasn't sure if i should try and add any more refrigerant...what do you think ?
If the pressure is not changing with the AC on or off, the problem could be with the compressor not starting.
my pressure was way over one hundred on a one hundred scale gage and temp outside was 103F but is in the red where it says danger.
Your static pressure (with the car off) should be around 130PSI at 103°F, assuming your car has R134a refrigerant.
@@Your-Self yes but my gage oly goes to 100 psi after that I couldn't monitor anymore. Also I didn't hear the clics it normally does and the swinging of the needle was not happening.
What is the exact name of the tool you used ?
Master, in my sonic the compressor enters all the time but it does not cool because the lines have pure air and I purge it but they fill up with air again, what could it be?
so i bought freon last week and checked the pressure it was at 62 and it was 114 outside that means i need to add freon? i was confused and thought it was overcharged becuase it was in the red so i didnt add any
Wow, 114°F... that's hot.
If the Static pressure is only 62 PSI (with the engine OFF), it's really low and needs to be charged up.
I have a question hopefully you can help me . I plugged my gauge when my car was off and It showed 70 psi the temperature was 20 Celsius outside. When I turned my car and the AC on it went to zero .Is it normal?. I am just scared if I put some refrigerant the static pressure I going to be too high.
It sounds like you have plenty of refrigerant, so I wouldn't add any.
The problem could be with the Expansion Valve or some kind of restriction in the system. The compressor does its job, but the refrigerant gas can't flow through the blockage.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching!
yeah, I think i overfroze my evaporator because I was getting high line medium pressure, eventually, the high line went super and low and was stuck while low side was too high. I hope it's not my new expansion valve or my brand new DENSO compressor. I guess I have to thaw it out. In my past few weeks of constant youtube watching, not one person said how long it should take to empty out a 12 oz can of 134r. I thought I was going slow enough in spurts in recharging, but eventually I felt a stalemate. cuz I did get the high side to go as high as 120 but then it stopped, and reduced to 0 while the low side was way up..I guess I kinda recharged too hastily, but no videos or anyone on forums can go into exact measurements cuz every ac gauge is so different and trial and error is "THE ONE THING, THE ONLY THING....that can stand in my WAY!" - UNICRON