The hip joint design is commonly referred to as a mushroom peg. Ultimately, all of these solutions should be considered temporary, as wear on your coating will always occur over time. Reapplication, like Thanos, is inevitable. If your socket is really smooth, that might help it last a little longer. I'd imagine a rough layer line surface would eat away more. What I've done a lot with smaller figures is apply the coating to both the ball and the joint. EDIT - Also, on the TPU front, an option to try that I've seen folks like SamMakesToys do is make that middle joint piece completely out of TPU.
I think that combining the fuzzy print with any of your liquid solutions like the resin could improve the amount of time itll take for the joints to wear down. I think that the fuzzy print could give a good texture for the liquid to sink in the cracks and adhere to.
thanks for going through all these tests it was SUPER informative. I've been supporting toymkr3D over on patreon for years and it's awesome to see him getting some love. On my own work, when I do oversized stuff, I've used the hot glue method as well as the fun foam sheets but I'll have to give some of these others a try. On my current project, I'm experimenting with printing the ball joints in TPU w/ 0.0 tolerances to get a snug fit but you don't often have that freedom if you're not the designer lol
I used contact cement in the joint (not on the ball itself. I did 2 coats in each joint and it worked amazing! It’s has amazing grip and I can pose my Prime (200% size) no problem and since it’s clear and in the joint you don’t see it.
Plasti Dip is designed to be peeled away, so I'm not surprised it peels with the friction alone. I used to Plasti Dip my car rims and it was a great way to easily change the look of the wheels, and it was cool to just peel away when I didn't want the coating anymore. Great option for joints if you're not looking to move it!
Plastidip and liquid tape will probably work better if you hit the areas to be applied with some sandpaper first. There may not be enough for them grip onto. Hitting the socket with some sandpaper to smooth out the layer lines may help reduce the friction rubbing as well. The floor polishes look similar to an older product called Future Floor Polish that was basically just thinned out acrylic medium. The Rejuvenate coming out white is similar to acrylic glazing medium which comes out white and dries clear. I don't know the compositions of the two polishes you used, but if they're acrylic based and don't have a retarder added they should dry in 15-30 minutes. You're basically just painting the prints in clear acrylic paint. Craft foam is normally thin EVA foam. You might be able to find some foam backed or double sided tape that uses EVA foam or something similar, but would be more expensive than just the foam. Seeing as various tapes and foam worked I believe you could try paper and or cardboard. Some thin corrugated stuff would probably yield better results than say cereal cardboard. A rougher paper like construction paper would probably have more friction than newsprint or printer paper. If someone was very careful I think gorilla glue could work, using it's ability to expand and how it can be compacted by enough force. Trying it sounds like massive headache overall though.
I highly recommend looking at a High Grade Gundam model kit if you want a better idea of how to incorporate a flexible filament like TPU. You’d have to split up the joints into additional pieces, each made from either PLA or TPU depending on what part of the joint they make up.
I love the Elegoo filament. Not tried the Neptune printers, but would love to at some point. Those are super cool. Those scaled up 310% joints could maybe be 308% or 309% if they are slighty too large to take apart easily.
I knew most of these but definitely found some new tools. Nice wide test. Now I'm curious for a follow-up in 6 months to confirm which last the longest
REALLY hoping you can help... My resin is NOT drying on PLA joints! Even bought a pricy fancy 42W 405nm curing box (UV lights sides + under the clear rotating plate)! I'm using the same exact brand/type resin as you (but in clear). Am I missing something? Supposed to be a 5 minute curing cycle... I'm on 20+ minutes now and still wet...
Great video and review of different options with some results that suprised me. I think the "real" solution to figures of this scale and weight is key joints need to be completely redesigned as ratchet style joints which many Masterpiece and larger Transformers have. Now the catch is actually designing 3D printable ratchet joints that actually hold up to use over time. Any chance you could do a deep-dive video or video series on something like this, or on advanced joints for larger 3D prints like these? Thank you for all the great content!
how have the neptune 4 printers been working for you? i loved mine, had some issues when they first released but after a few updates and a thermistor wire later (from glob of death) it prints great! i ended up getting a k1 a nd use that for now till i can make more space for the elegoo? just curious on your thoughts as youre using them in this video. so much controversary on them
I printed these at normal scale and still had the lose joint issue. I ended up doing the CA glue and baking soda and then sanding them. Which was SUPER MESSY but its held up to my kids playing with it so far.
I would like to point out that if someone goes with enlarging a part, they will have to enlarge any attached parts even further, e.g. if you enlarge the thigh by 2% to fit into the hip, you will need to enlarge the calf section by around 4% to make up for the size difference and to enlarge it enough to stiffen the joint. Then the feet will need to be enlarged by about 8%. This will obviously affect the proportions of your model slightly.
I was actually a little surprised you didn't try stippling. The result would likely be a lot like fuzzy skin, except it would give you more control. You could stipple more, or deeper, or change the pattern depending on how much friction you want. It would take a bit longer than the other options, but it would also work well with others. It could hold more resin or floor polish, and could get Plastidip and Liquid Tape to stick better.
Another con for foil tape is that stuff can be VERY sharp. Think paper cut but much worse since it’s technically a metal tape. Other than that, the stuff does stick pretty well to most anything
Gah I wish I had replied to your previous video as I didn't realise printing differently would be an option. Would have suggested X-Y contour compensation in the slicer would be an option to look into. Sure it changes the whole model slightly but at this scale, are you really going to notice the difference?
Another thing with Fuzzy Skin is that not all slicers have these options so you might have to take time to learn a new slicer. IF it will even work with your printer.
⚠️ The craft foam great for short term, I would be hesitant to use it because in a year it may degrade a lot under pressure. Aluminum Tape 💯 better choice, I use that stuff a lot because the adhesive it has sticks to plastic or any smooth surface where other tapes fail. And where I have had ‘extreme’ duct-tapes bleach in the sun and fail, the aluminum holds for years. 👍
Great video and a lot of options I would not have thought of. I am a little surprised you did not test out using superglue and activator. It is nice because if you make it too tight, you can just sand it back a bit.
mmm the only way i found to make durable joints in my models is using external materials like wire or elastic fish line. Resine is not good for that.. sorry my english.
If you're printing with PLA there's no possible method you can use to fix loose joints because PLA has high creep which means that in one day or two the plastic will start to morph and get loose again.
I mean no offense but... duh. Of course scaling the joints is the only real solution. Friction joints work by maintaining a certain percentage of contact against the contact points. By scaling the parts you are increasing the size BUT you are also increasing the distance between the joints. As a result, you decreased the amount of friction contact between the parts.
The hip joint design is commonly referred to as a mushroom peg. Ultimately, all of these solutions should be considered temporary, as wear on your coating will always occur over time. Reapplication, like Thanos, is inevitable. If your socket is really smooth, that might help it last a little longer. I'd imagine a rough layer line surface would eat away more. What I've done a lot with smaller figures is apply the coating to both the ball and the joint.
EDIT - Also, on the TPU front, an option to try that I've seen folks like SamMakesToys do is make that middle joint piece completely out of TPU.
I think making the joint itself of TPU is the way. Kind of like how Gunpla figures are built
Great manual! Thanks for this video!
I think that combining the fuzzy print with any of your liquid solutions like the resin could improve the amount of time itll take for the joints to wear down. I think that the fuzzy print could give a good texture for the liquid to sink in the cracks and adhere to.
thanks for going through all these tests it was SUPER informative. I've been supporting toymkr3D over on patreon for years and it's awesome to see him getting some love. On my own work, when I do oversized stuff, I've used the hot glue method as well as the fun foam sheets but I'll have to give some of these others a try. On my current project, I'm experimenting with printing the ball joints in TPU w/ 0.0 tolerances to get a snug fit but you don't often have that freedom if you're not the designer lol
These 38 minutes were really enjoyable & useful. I'll apply some of these tips soon :)
I used contact cement in the joint (not on the ball itself. I did 2 coats in each joint and it worked amazing! It’s has amazing grip and I can pose my Prime (200% size) no problem and since it’s clear and in the joint you don’t see it.
Plasti Dip is designed to be peeled away, so I'm not surprised it peels with the friction alone. I used to Plasti Dip my car rims and it was a great way to easily change the look of the wheels, and it was cool to just peel away when I didn't want the coating anymore. Great option for joints if you're not looking to move it!
ya I could have told him that plastidip would not hold up to friction at all.
Plastidip and liquid tape will probably work better if you hit the areas to be applied with some sandpaper first. There may not be enough for them grip onto. Hitting the socket with some sandpaper to smooth out the layer lines may help reduce the friction rubbing as well.
The floor polishes look similar to an older product called Future Floor Polish that was basically just thinned out acrylic medium. The Rejuvenate coming out white is similar to acrylic glazing medium which comes out white and dries clear. I don't know the compositions of the two polishes you used, but if they're acrylic based and don't have a retarder added they should dry in 15-30 minutes. You're basically just painting the prints in clear acrylic paint.
Craft foam is normally thin EVA foam. You might be able to find some foam backed or double sided tape that uses EVA foam or something similar, but would be more expensive than just the foam.
Seeing as various tapes and foam worked I believe you could try paper and or cardboard. Some thin corrugated stuff would probably yield better results than say cereal cardboard. A rougher paper like construction paper would probably have more friction than newsprint or printer paper.
If someone was very careful I think gorilla glue could work, using it's ability to expand and how it can be compacted by enough force. Trying it sounds like massive headache overall though.
really thorough and deliberate testing! thanks!
Thanks for the shout out Uncle Jessy!
Great video man, honest opnion, clear pros and cons, very complete! Great work man!
I highly recommend looking at a High Grade Gundam model kit if you want a better idea of how to incorporate a flexible filament like TPU. You’d have to split up the joints into additional pieces, each made from either PLA or TPU depending on what part of the joint they make up.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ 36:24
I love the Elegoo filament. Not tried the Neptune printers, but would love to at some point. Those are super cool. Those scaled up 310% joints could maybe be 308% or 309% if they are slighty too large to take apart easily.
Thank you, its nice to have that knowledge for future projects.
Maybe I should add foam to my sculpts for more grip
🤔
that is a great video! btw you dont have to apply the coating allover the joint part, just about 50% of the area will be enough
I knew most of these but definitely found some new tools. Nice wide test. Now I'm curious for a follow-up in 6 months to confirm which last the longest
For toys like this you should print the parts in PETG, ABS or ASA because they don't suffer from part creep like PLA does.
Thanks for the 3d Builder tool suggestion! I created a ready to print object faster than a 8min abs workout!
I like using mod podge for loose joints. It's mix of PVA glue and varnish so a bit thicker substance than the pledge/nail varnish.
Hey! The loose joints would be PERFECT for puppets! You should consider making the old models into marionettes!
Hockey stick tape might work too. It’s very sticky and stretches. Just not sure if it would peel off over time.
REALLY hoping you can help... My resin is NOT drying on PLA joints! Even bought a pricy fancy 42W 405nm curing box (UV lights sides + under the clear rotating plate)! I'm using the same exact brand/type resin as you (but in clear). Am I missing something? Supposed to be a 5 minute curing cycle... I'm on 20+ minutes now and still wet...
Great video and review of different options with some results that suprised me. I think the "real" solution to figures of this scale and weight is key joints need to be completely redesigned as ratchet style joints which many Masterpiece and larger Transformers have. Now the catch is actually designing 3D printable ratchet joints that actually hold up to use over time.
Any chance you could do a deep-dive video or video series on something like this, or on advanced joints for larger 3D prints like these?
Thank you for all the great content!
those foam sheets are also available with an adhesive back, much less messy than trying to super glue them in place
The joints are loose regardless of scaling. 15:19 , you are putting the joint in backwards....thats why it wont fit.
How about Smooth On XTC? I think it may work too. And if the application is too thick, you can sand it down.
Great channel‼️‼️‼️Have you ever made a transforming transformer🤔 if not could you?
I’ve seen some files that can. Would be a fun print project
can't wait to try printing the transformers models
how have the neptune 4 printers been working for you? i loved mine, had some issues when they first released but after a few updates and a thermistor wire later (from glob of death) it prints great! i ended up getting a k1 a nd use that for now till i can make more space for the elegoo? just curious on your thoughts as youre using them in this video. so much controversary on them
I printed these at normal scale and still had the lose joint issue. I ended up doing the CA glue and baking soda and then sanding them. Which was SUPER MESSY but its held up to my kids playing with it so far.
I would like to point out that if someone goes with enlarging a part, they will have to enlarge any attached parts even further, e.g. if you enlarge the thigh by 2% to fit into the hip, you will need to enlarge the calf section by around 4% to make up for the size difference and to enlarge it enough to stiffen the joint. Then the feet will need to be enlarged by about 8%. This will obviously affect the proportions of your model slightly.
Could have also used Cura to slice them and change the slicer tolerance to exclusive , which makes the tolerance tighter
the best way for me is to use the horizontal expansion feature in cura, but for already printed, the clear resin is the best way
I was actually a little surprised you didn't try stippling. The result would likely be a lot like fuzzy skin, except it would give you more control. You could stipple more, or deeper, or change the pattern depending on how much friction you want. It would take a bit longer than the other options, but it would also work well with others. It could hold more resin or floor polish, and could get Plastidip and Liquid Tape to stick better.
Amazing!
before i watch, i would suggest you crank the horizontal compensation, whichever direction makes the joint better
Very good video, maybe next time it could be about making joints looser because my printer keeps fusing the joints together
Cura has an option in Experimental to change the slicing tolerance. That would be my first thought.
Another con for foil tape is that stuff can be VERY sharp. Think paper cut but much worse since it’s technically a metal tape. Other than that, the stuff does stick pretty well to most anything
this comes from a modelkit builder. put some superglue on a toothpick, then go around the peg with the toothpick.
You need to check out 3dWorkBench and his amazing Voltron model. His joint design is superior and should be adopted moving forward for stuff like this
Oh man I saw his posts on that. Looks stunning
What about using a 3d print pen and laying down grid on the joint. Best part is being able to use the same filament
Gah I wish I had replied to your previous video as I didn't realise printing differently would be an option. Would have suggested X-Y contour compensation in the slicer would be an option to look into. Sure it changes the whole model slightly but at this scale, are you really going to notice the difference?
Another thing with Fuzzy Skin is that not all slicers have these options so you might have to take time to learn a new slicer. IF it will even work with your printer.
what do you use for your neptune 4 slicer? can you share your profile too pretty please?
He has his slicer profiles on his patreon
Megatron has fallen! Now Starscream is the leader of the Decepticons!
Maybe you dont know, but Pledge usually is used how the BEST generic Varnish if you work with Acrylic paints.
Can’t you print some shims like the camshaft of an enginealso called bearings
Wouldn't any/all of these wear out if they are moved constenly?
⚠️ The craft foam great for short term, I would be hesitant to use it because in a year it may degrade a lot under pressure.
Aluminum Tape 💯 better choice, I use that stuff a lot because the adhesive it has sticks to plastic or any smooth surface where other tapes fail. And where I have had ‘extreme’ duct-tapes bleach in the sun and fail, the aluminum holds for years. 👍
Crazy as it may sound I use election black tape, one wrap if it’s not to loose and two or more wraps if really loose
I didn't scale mine at all and most of the joints are very loose. Like a rag doll.
Thing is, with the pledge, it's more effective when the joint is already made. It won't seize it but it will strengthen it.
awesome video and tips! but for my toys i solved this with 3d printed bolts that tight up the joint, in a few days will post on my channel ;)
Plasti-dip comes in clear if you are concerned about how it looks
Great video and a lot of options I would not have thought of. I am a little surprised you did not test out using superglue and activator. It is nice because if you make it too tight, you can just sand it back a bit.
There's a million that's what she said lines in this video.
I can’t stop hearing it now
Took me hot second wondering what the Skinky con was for the plastidip 😅
i wonder if it transforms
Yes but do they transform?
That's sick ♥️♥️♥️🔥🔥🔥🎉🎉🎉👍👍💯💯
The issue I'm having is the part being WAY too tight to snap in but, once it is, being too loose to hold its position.
mmm the only way i found to make durable joints in my models is using external materials like wire or elastic fish line. Resine is not good for that.. sorry my english.
You need universal joints with ratchets for those joints, ball joints will 100% always fail to hold over time.
how tight does it really need to be? Just enough to hold a pose and support itself. Unless your're posing daily whatever you use should be fine..
How did you get through that video without a “One shall stand. One shall fall…” joke?
I wonder about rubber cement 🧐
use masking and enlarge the ball joint
7:45 skinky
Lol what a funny typo
Unfortunately if its made out of PLA, you're outta luck as it will loosen up over time due to creep
how did you not try baking soda and super glue?
I like them ♥️♥️💕💕👍👍😃😃✌️✌️
a 3d pen would work to add ridges to the balljoints
i believe you made a video about this like 2 years ago
I always use superglue myself.
You should put paper in the joints
Gorilla glue would have worked fine. Then I'd coat it afterwards with nail polish. Definitely the only fix
or maybe just print the joints a tab bit larger to fill in the loose fit
I was starting to wonder why you wouldn't just make one side of the joint bigger/smaller as applicable. None of these other solutions will last.
super glue + baking soda = problem solved
Heck yeah. That sounds like a solid option as well
I want more happiness and less pain for all of you and for myself. I wish I didn't.
Uncle Jessy are you G.I. Joe fan?
PlastiDip does come in clear.
If you're printing with PLA there's no possible method you can use to fix loose joints because PLA has high creep which means that in one day or two the plastic will start to morph and get loose again.
Plasti dip, Cons: Skinky :P lol
5 minutes epoxi is the solution.
Duct tape on joints
PlastiDip is designed to peel off. So yeah, duh, it peeled off.
I mean no offense but... duh. Of course scaling the joints is the only real solution.
Friction joints work by maintaining a certain percentage of contact against the contact points. By scaling the parts you are increasing the size BUT you are also increasing the distance between the joints. As a result, you decreased the amount of friction contact between the parts.
Nothing in this video will help with my loose shoulder.
I think that just adding ratchets to the joints.
this slow blinking is driving nuts...
Aluminium... jesus...
If only this worked for the 40+ crowd. 👨🏻🦳👍🏻
For real! My hips & knees… maybe I can print some replacements 😂
40 to 50 is perfect for this what do you mean
@@corkey2077he’s talking about his joints not the figures
If anything mine are too stiff
😂😂 yeah really!