I love how the speedo unit’s odometer maxes out at 99,999. They didn’t think to highly of their product in ‘77. Obviously they were wrong. Great job sir.
Thank you for your Great Video. I have my 1979 Cj7 258 inline 6 since 1979 and i would like to get it going again. I haven't started it for 15years and lots of rust. I appreciate any info that you can give me. thx
nice work, well done. I have a 1977 cj5 too. Original with 6L 4.2, 258 engine, 4 drum brake, steel top. Too hard to adjust front drum brake. I am looking for a new cushiom front seats with some kind of soft auto shoc
the gear for the distributor drive is also the gear that drives the oil pump, when replacing the timing cover and rebu8ilding the oil pump and if you replaced the oil pressure regulator spring you are probably running oil pressure to high, it should be 45 psi at full throttle, if you have high oil pressure you will overload the timing drive gear and strip it quickly, cut two rings off the replacement spring and your pressure should be right at 45 psi. a lot of people say i am wrong when i post this, but if your drive gear keeps failing try this and keep it running for a long time. on worn out engines this will make very little difference, but on a fresh rebuild it will cause high oil pressure.
I'm getting much higher oil pressure, and the forums I've asked said it was OK. I didn't rebuild anything else in the engine, so maybe it's good to run with the higher oil pressure?
@@DrPronghorn no, the drive gear can only produce a certain amount of torque to turn the oil pump, the hear overloads above 45 psi and will fail prematurely.
There is a steel mid plate or booster plate available for the oil pump that gives a steel surface for the oil pump gears to ride against. The gears can dig into the cast aluminum cover. It's the best thing you can do to older Buick and AMC v motors.
Great Jeep! I am currently rebuilding a 73 with a 360 and just finished up the engine. On that front cover there should be two dowel pins that align the front cover so the alignment of the timing gears is better. Apparently they can get chewed up some if the alignment is slightly off. I didn't see them in your pictures, they may have been on there and you didn't mention it. They are hard to find. I just took a 5/16 bolt (smooth shank) and chucked it in the drill press and sanded it down a little bit at a time until they would snugly fit in the holes. They were about 3/4 inch long or so. A drop of loctite held them in. When I put the front cover on all the bolts went right in with no binding. Good luck.
Yes, I did have the dowel pins, and they were in good shape, so I just reused them. I didn't mention it in the video, but you're right: they're really important for getting everything lined up, and if you follow the shop manual, it has a good deal to say about getting the dowels in place. I try to balance the need for details with the UA-cam viewer's short attention span!
I have a 91 cherokee I've had 21years, I've done everything to it myself. Jeeps are simple to work on. I recently bought a 2008 Honda Accord, I hate working on it, everything is so tight, no room to work.
Also on your gear oil for trans and case use gl4 gear oil and not gl5. The gl5 is high in phosphorus that wears the synchro blocking rings. You do want gl5 in the differentials. Mobile and amzoil both make a syn gl4. It's pricey but it's the correct fluid
I would love to have one that is road worthy and mostly stock. Seems like every one I get has too many "mods" that other people tried to do that make it too dangerous for the road, like spring over axle conversions etc.
Super cool '77 CJ5. PLEASE (!) don't replace your HIGHLY desirable, original Levi's seats. Those are probably more rare, and valuable than you realize. I'm a 5-time CJ5 owner, one of which was a '78 very similar to yours, (current one is an '83) in Springerville, AZ. Lastly, I hope you can get an original style, tan, full soft top; it would look fabulous on your Jeep.
Very nice survivor CJ! That is a collector quality AMC-era Jeep which is the most sought-after especially with the original V8. Be very carful with the seats! That Levi vinyl material is impossible to find and the buttons themselves are expensive. Check out Project Survivor CJ group on a social media platform for TONs of good info and knowledge on these. A similar CJ just sold on BaT for $35k!
Wow! That's more than I expected. I've already had one Levi's button come off, but I put it in the ash tray so I wouldn't lose it. The driver's seat material is cracking, too, so it might be time to retire it from service to preserve it.
PLEASE don't replace the seats or put shoulder belts in! If you do, save the old parts! They are NOT reproduced and are HIGHLY sought after! That Jeep deserves to be saved and kept original or be able to be returned to original easily. Please do some research on AMC/Jeep collectability and survivors!
Fantastic video! Good to see a video from "normal" people to show that we can do things like this too.
Thanks!
I love how the speedo unit’s odometer maxes out at 99,999. They didn’t think to highly of their product in ‘77. Obviously they were wrong.
Great job sir.
Thank you! I hope I can get this girl past 99,999!
I had a 1979 CJ7 Renegade with the same interior color , but I had the 258 in line 6 ,, wish I still had it today 👍🇺🇸
I know I'm never selling mine!
Thank you for your Great Video.
I have my 1979 Cj7 258 inline 6 since 1979 and i would like to get it going again. I haven't started it for 15years and lots of rust.
I appreciate any info that you can give me. thx
Working on mine. THANKS FOR THE TIPS .... loved the video very well explained. Helped alot.
You're welcome! I'm glad I could help!
nice work, well done. I have a 1977 cj5 too. Original with 6L 4.2, 258 engine, 4 drum brake, steel top. Too hard to adjust front drum brake. I am looking for a new cushiom front seats with some kind of soft auto shoc
You’re right, those drum brakes are a real pain, good luck with your seat search!
Great series thank you sir! About to dust off the cob webs on my 81 CJ7. Hoping it's less involved than this but it'll be a great project even if so
If you document your process on social media, let me know where, so I can follow along.
Awesome work.. congratulations.....
Thanks a lot 😊
the gear for the distributor drive is also the gear that drives the oil pump, when replacing the timing cover and rebu8ilding the oil pump and if you replaced the oil pressure regulator spring you are probably running oil pressure to high, it should be 45 psi at full throttle, if you have high oil pressure you will overload the timing drive gear and strip it quickly, cut two rings off the replacement spring and your pressure should be right at 45 psi. a lot of people say i am wrong when i post this, but if your drive gear keeps failing try this and keep it running for a long time. on worn out engines this will make very little difference, but on a fresh rebuild it will cause high oil pressure.
I'm getting much higher oil pressure, and the forums I've asked said it was OK. I didn't rebuild anything else in the engine, so maybe it's good to run with the higher oil pressure?
@@DrPronghorn no, the drive gear can only produce a certain amount of torque to turn the oil pump, the hear overloads above 45 psi and will fail prematurely.
There is a steel mid plate or booster plate available for the oil pump that gives a steel surface for the oil pump gears to ride against. The gears can dig into the cast aluminum cover. It's the best thing you can do to older Buick and AMC v motors.
That makes a lot of sense. I'll look for one the next time I have the oil pump apart.
Great Jeep! I am currently rebuilding a 73 with a 360 and just finished up the engine. On that front cover there should be two dowel pins that align the front cover so the alignment of the timing gears is better. Apparently they can get chewed up some if the alignment is slightly off. I didn't see them in your pictures, they may have been on there and you didn't mention it. They are hard to find. I just took a 5/16 bolt (smooth shank) and chucked it in the drill press and sanded it down a little bit at a time until they would snugly fit in the holes. They were about 3/4 inch long or so. A drop of loctite held them in. When I put the front cover on all the bolts went right in with no binding. Good luck.
Yes, I did have the dowel pins, and they were in good shape, so I just reused them. I didn't mention it in the video, but you're right: they're really important for getting everything lined up, and if you follow the shop manual, it has a good deal to say about getting the dowels in place. I try to balance the need for details with the UA-cam viewer's short attention span!
My Dad had a 360 renegade blue I miss it so bad we 4 wheeled the hell out of that thing and rolled it once.. would love to get one again
Nice work on the old girl.
Thanks 👍
@@DrPronghorn Thank you for taking the time to film it :D
I have a 91 cherokee I've had 21years, I've done everything to it myself. Jeeps are simple to work on. I recently bought a 2008 Honda Accord, I hate working on it, everything is so tight, no room to work.
I love an old Jeep for working on!
HOWDY, ...
Thanks for the AMC / JEEP V-8 Content ...
COOP ...
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
You're welcome!
ooooh... you have an MGB too... I'll be looking out for that project...
It's actually not mine... I have a Jensen Healey, though, if you want to see some Britich Car content, look at my past videos.
@@DrPronghorn Ill do that... My wife and I are members of the local British car club... We have a '77 'B
@@britishsouth Nice. An MGB is on my list of cars to own someday
Thank you so much for sharing this great video. Any chance you can provide the torque specs for all the parts you pulled off the engine?
I'm using the Haynes manual, so I'll point you there for the torque specs. I couldn't find a new one, so I had to buy a used copy from ABE Books....
.....shock absorver or another type, maybe air (because my cervical hernias) but I didn't find yet
That’s a great idea. I’ll have to give that a look!
Also on your gear oil for trans and case use gl4 gear oil and not gl5. The gl5 is high in phosphorus that wears the synchro blocking rings. You do want gl5 in the differentials. Mobile and amzoil both make a syn gl4. It's pricey but it's the correct fluid
OK. I'll take that in mind the next time I change the gear oil.
Belleza de jeep que lo disfrute😊😊
Thanks!
I would love to have one that is road worthy and mostly stock. Seems like every one I get has too many "mods" that other people tried to do that make it too dangerous for the road, like spring over axle conversions etc.
I know what you mean. This one is a gem and I'm glad I was able to save it!
Hi, can you please tell me if the carburetor on your amc 304 engine a Motorcraft 2150 or a 2100?
I believe it is a 2150, it has the square shape to the rear flange.
Thanks for the response. Maybe somebody will eventually respond that knows what year the 2150 carb started being used in the CJ5 and 7.
Hi, is the blue color on your 304 the original color?
As far as I know, this engine has never been out of this jeep
How much for your low back seats ? ?
They're not for sale. When I replace them, I'll be turning them into bar stools.
Super cool '77 CJ5. PLEASE (!) don't replace your HIGHLY desirable, original Levi's seats. Those are probably more rare, and valuable than you realize. I'm a 5-time CJ5 owner, one of which was a '78 very similar to yours, (current one is an '83) in Springerville, AZ. Lastly, I hope you can get an original style, tan, full soft top; it would look fabulous on your Jeep.
Thanks! I'm definitely keeping the Levi's seats... Right now I have a black soft top, but I'm on the hunt for a white/tan one!
Very nice survivor CJ! That is a collector quality AMC-era Jeep which is the most sought-after especially with the original V8. Be very carful with the seats! That Levi vinyl material is impossible to find and the buttons themselves are expensive. Check out Project Survivor CJ group on a social media platform for TONs of good info and knowledge on these. A similar CJ just sold on BaT for $35k!
Wow! That's more than I expected. I've already had one Levi's button come off, but I put it in the ash tray so I wouldn't lose it. The driver's seat material is cracking, too, so it might be time to retire it from service to preserve it.
fiburger don't prelude he just fires up with 20 year old oil and that is why road kill blows up engines
Maybe most of the time, but I did see him do the pre-lube trick one time
Sell those seats!
I don't wanna!
“A Off Road Vehicle”!! If I had the time invested in this project, I would go further and rid the vehicle of that horrible brown!
They're only ever original once! I'm going to keep it brown as long as I own it!
I have a 72 cj5 and mine has been sitting for 20 plus years. I needto pick at your brain 🧠
I'm here as well as on Instagram! Plus, there are several good Jeep groups on Facebook with many friendly, knowledgeable people!
PLEASE don't replace the seats or put shoulder belts in! If you do, save the old parts! They are NOT reproduced and are HIGHLY sought after! That Jeep deserves to be saved and kept original or be able to be returned to original easily. Please do some research on AMC/Jeep collectability and survivors!
So you wouldn't like it if I swapped the AMC V8 out for a 426 Hemi, then?
@@DrPronghorn lol