Echo CS-400 chainsaw rebuild bolt for bolt part 1 - disassembly
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- Опубліковано 14 бер 2016
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Disclaimer: ladies and gents, this is a CHAINSAW, working with, building and fiddling with these can KILL YOU, I am not and will not be responsible for improper technique or accidents even remotely relating to this video, please view for entertainment purposes only.
Up today is an Echo CS-400 chainsaw that had been run lean, and seized. The piston nearly seized against the wall of the cylinder, ruining both pieces necessitating a new motor altogether. DO NOT just slap a new motor in a saw without going through the proper diagnostic procedures to figure out why the saw toasted in the first place. Best I can tell, this saw got cooked for a couple reasons, the carb was lean, the chain was dull, the oil mix was likely too light on the oil. The carburetor needed to be adjusted properly, which was only possible by eliminating the limiters (not shown in the vid). The purpose of this vid is to simply show a breakdown of this saw, and eventually to rebuild it.
Part 2 is here:
I have a more thorough video on how and why to do crankcase pressure testing here:
• Why you do a pressure ... - Авто та транспорт
First time working on the Echo because THEY WORK, for the price. Well built for the money and they run. Have a cs305 15 years old and cs400 10 years. Do the maint and they run. This saws problem is that a human let it down. No oil in gas, no go. :-) great video.
100% agree
Your bird is making my bird squawk! My little conure chipper
Alas....Polly passed away Jan 1 2022 :(
This is my favorite chainsaw video. My little bird chip has been sitting on my shoulder watching this video squawking the whole time
17:10
i had a similar reaction (far less than enthused) when disassembling my cs 440.
good video, thanks.
Jerry Bear welcome....thanks for the comment!
I just replaced a carburetor on that model last night and removing the top of the handle with the one phillips head screw would make removing the carb a lot easier.
Thanks, you make my day man
I have this same saw and am extremely pleased with it.. I have spent a lot of time on a husky 435 and to me the echo is a much better built saw and is more enjoyable use.
I have one also great saw..............CS310
I recently replaced the pulse and fuel lines on a Stihl MS250 and this CS-400 Echo was much, much easier to get the lines back on the carburetor after having removed the carb. I work for a power company and we have been using Stihl carbs for over 30 years since that's how long I have been there. I really think that Stihl has gone down in quality several years ago. I have bought several Echo saws and a big Husqvarna Rancher and I don't know if I will buy another Stihl.
Thanks for this, bro!
good info thank you
You do very well on the narrow bench. Maybe you could rebuild one next time on an old cross country ski ? Just funnin' with you. Very cool video - neat to see one go all the way down and back up ! Will be watching many more.
Ok, we have the same engine and it is seized. I have it soaking in Marvel Mystery oil overnight and hopefully it will loosen up. My question is what did it take and when did yours break loose? At the start it seemed to be seized and when you took the bottom crank loose the piston was free. When and how did it break free?
sometimes they are locked because the rings are actually broken and there are pieces blocking the piston movement. other times its just the galling of the aluminum on the side walls that jams it. its pretty rare that its so seized that I can't get the head off. for this saw, its probably not worth your time to get it apart. when it finally comes apart, it'll probably need a new head and piston anyway, might as well buy the whole unit on ebay (like I did) ....replace the whole motor. its much easier and probably not much difference in cost comparitively to replacing the head and piston alone. plus you may need seals too. .... the crankcase and head comes as a unit available on ebay... best of luck :)
Have a question. I have an echo saw, think it's a cs360. Anyways I'm getting the classic bar oil leaking when sitting. Took the bar off and cleaned it as it was clogged with sawdust due to my lack of maintenance on that . So I'm wondering if there is any chance that cleaning will fix my problem. What I'm thinking is probably due to my lack of maintenance that pump was pumping and the oil had to find somewhere to go and caused a leak. Any ideas?
First you have to determine where the bar oil is leaking from, which side of the saw, front back, clutch side, starter side... could simply be a loose cap or bad rubber on the oil cap ... 2ndly, the best place to ask a question like this is in one of the chainsaw forums .... arboristsite.com or opeforum.com
best of luck
Best way to store 'em is without bar oil. I use cheap plastic turkey basters to remove bar oil, inspect it (basters are normally clear plastic) then squirt it back into the jug.
If you drain your fuel and oil before storage life will be easier and less messy.
Did you run fuel with ethanol in it? I was told when I bought my saw not to run fuel with ethanol as it will cause oil to separate from fuel.
i try not to run ethanol fuel in my saws because it degrades fuel lines and messed up carbs among other things, but what fuel was run in this saw in question I am not aware... wasn't my saw
What exactly is that drill driver bit you are using?
i forget .. if its 4mm ...long? its the long allen set from Harbor Freight. they work very well
Very helpful -- thanks!
Welcome!
@@matthewolson8875 l
Hey Matthew whats up brother. Quick question, have you worked on a CS490? I think I'm gonna pick one up, I mainly wanted to know if like the CS400 there if it's a clamshell design with the metal bottom plate. Saw some of the Huskies of similar size like the 445 I believe the bottom of the engine is the case itself. I don't think I like that. Picked up a brand new MS250 today and didn't like the way it ran one bit. Idled at like 3600rpm and would drop down to almost stalling when tipped sideways occasionally. Returned it. Thought it would run better than the old MS250 I picked up and have been working on but nope! Actually ran worse, and they both do that where they will drop rpm when tipped. Put a new walbro wt 215 on the old ms250 I have too, also sealed the boot with yamabond, and did pressure test which passed. Seems like must just be in the design. I liked that the MS250 has awesome power to weight, like 10.1lb for 3.0 HP. Want a lighter 18" saw for limbing with good power. Don't like the MS250 now, don't like the Husky design either so now I'm looking at the echo 490, don't know of any other good ones with 2.5 to 3.0hp for about 10lb or less, perhaps you know of some.
I have not worked on a 490 so i can't comment...sorry. I don't like the 250 either.
@@matthewolson8875 Just out of curiosity have you ever run a ms250 and noticed the speed fluctuation when turned sideways? I love the power for the weight but I don't like the way it runs. Also, what do you think would be a top pick or two for 10.5lbs or so or less with best power and also easy to work on / durable? I don't like the husky case thing I mentioned, otherwise the 445 would have been what I went for next. The cs 490 might be nice, and chances are I'll probably try one of those out next, but if it's like that 400 with screws that go into the crank case that is a huge pet peeve of mine. Why, why tf does anyone design stuff like that. Totally un-necessary potential air leak.
@@aeridyne that's an air leak / bearing issue ... or possibly a carb issue. It's not supposed to do that. But yes I have run a 250... and it didn't do that.
@@aeridyne the 250 ...I think is plastic case as well..... you want a more pro saw .... get a 346xp and rip away. Just make sure that if you get an older one it has a metal intake clamp. I wouldn't buy any of the newer husky consumer stuff... pro only ... so 550xp would be more your speed.
What do you do if the oiler doesn't lift off?
Hmm...stuck or gummed up? Heat gun just to warm it? Should lift off
i have the same saw cs400 today was working for 1 hour then stop working suddenly i try again it works only wen i push throller now is not working at all i feel the pulling engine wire its a little hard is any solution my saw almost new non use much very clean
Pull the muffler...check the piston for scoring. This question is better answered on opeforum.com
Hello my dad has the same chainsaw, and he needs the sprocket . I bought him one and it was small, they told me they need the Serial number which he doesn’t have . He’s in another state and they don’t sell it over there. Can I get a serial number starts with letter “A”I think . Thanks in advance .
MrZACATECANO100 I don't have the saw in my posession....sorry
Matthew Olson no worries, thank you and great video.
I have a CS 400 junk saw and the serial number is C09212154196 that should get you the right part
assemble #A056000210 maybe that's the number you are looking for.
Fishing in Pa thank you very much, I truly appreciate it.
You'll learn one thing Echo chainsaws rule! All the others chainsaws drool
Hi do you know where can I can buy the three way grabber tool? Thank you!
For the clutch? I just made mine out of an old socket.
Matthew Olson thank you very much
@@matthewolson8875 Do you know what size socket it was right off hand? I'm gonna buy an individual socket to cut up and would like to know. Thanks.
@@noblesavage413 no ...I dont. Take the clutch to the pawn shop and try some sockets :)
@@matthewolson8875 Haha, if i could get the clutch off I'd be doing good! Thanks anyhow bud.
Echo is far better than huskies
take the screw out of the handle the throttle linkage comes off easy.
one screw at the end of the black piece.
@@cazbit639 thanks CAZ, this is an old video and I haven't worked on one since .... but thanks for the heads up
Replace chain
?
Ugh, how can anybody listen to a bird making noise all day???
Yep she is loud!
I myself don’t call a about 300 dollar saw cheap
In the scheme of saws today....300 bux is not going to get you into a pro model saw. Though 300 bux may not be easy to come by....it still won't buy you a new pro saw. Our dollar isn't worth much these days :(
That is very true
Matthew Olson agree. You will need to cough up more for a pro saw. But not three times or even twice as much. I would say 300$ is enough to make the saw worth taking apart to attempt a fix for anyone.
@@matthewolson8875 this isn’t a pro saw and two it’s expensive it half the price of a so called pro saw.
Why the hell not take pics as you work? Anyone can take a machine apart but getting back together properly is a different story. And who cares about all the references to Husky?!
Don't need pix...I got video :) and since I mainly do husky...there are husky comments.