How To Fix A Milwaukee Soldering Iron - Not Heating Up
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- I bought a broken Milwaukee soldering iron it's not heating up. I'll show you how to fix it.
I'll show how to disassemble the iron, do some checks and hopefully repair it if you have a faulty one.
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For those coming to this video, the Hakko 1321 element is the wrong one. It is 24 volt and this iron needs a 12 volt element. He touched on this is some of the other Milwaukee soldering iron repair videos where he had to change the element and not just the thermal fuse. The iron was slow to heat and did not make max temp with the Hakko 1321 element. I looked on the china sites and they offer 12 volt elements for under a USD.
Have you a link for the 12v version? I could only find them with a minimum order quantity of 1000 pieces at the time.
@@BuyitFixit Sir, I sent you an email so that you can peruse them, and make sure they look like the original. Sure enjoy your video repairs, you are an inspiration to this ol' guy.
@theoldbigmoose Cheers mate 👍😊
I almost choked on my tea, when you touched the soldering iron in the beginning, once again great video, keep them coming
Thanks! Yes I wasn't sure if people would appreciate my humor or not!
@@BuyitFixit I love that kind of humor.
Mine "broke" like this too, I emailed milwaukee to ask about warranty but they couldn't tell me if it was covered or not. So I did it myself (I think I'm out of warranty anyway). Bought the parts on Amazon for sub-$15. Thank you!!!!
I contemplated just omitting the "fuse", but decided not to.
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice work! Easy, inexpensive fix! And a nice piece of equipment to add to you arsenal of tools!
Thanks 👍🙂
I like it when it is a thermal fuse. Great repairs, mate👍👍
Thanks 👍
I have one in my tool box. Best little tool ever only wish the battery would last longer. Great video as always 👍
Thanks supermick 👍I've got the m18 version. I think the battery lasts a lot longer as it has more capacity
Thank you so much for your video. My soldering iron is working again!
Great to hear jtmarin1 👍 Really glad you managed to get it working! Well done!
I’m becoming a pro at this thanks to you!!!🎉🎉🎉
Thanks Rob!
Really useful video
Thanks 👍
Nice little fix, champion 👍😊
Cheers 👍
Always do a pull test when you crimp anything 😊
I think that might be a bit X rated for UA-cam 😂😂😂😂
0:23 yes you definitely made me jump. Strait, 10 centimeters of my chair
😂😂😂😂sorry about that.
Made us jump... proceeds with fixing like nothing happened haha
😂😂😂yes forgot about that one. I thought it would be entertaining 🙂
@@BuyitFixit it made it more funnier to be honest 😂
Nice job mate but I’d have liked to have seen you remove the sticker with the screw underneath with some heat so it wasn’t destroyed 🙂
Yes good idea. I'm not sure if it would have been heat resistant with it being close proximity to the hot end.
@@BuyitFixitWhat he means is that the piece of paper you cut off, if you can pull it off, will not be damaged and affect the appearance
@@user-bv1uj3ic8n Thanks for your comment . Yes I know what he means. I've done it before with things like warranty stickers on the original xbox. I wasn't really too bothered about the appearance of the sticker in this case.
useful information to know. thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video just liked and subscribed
Thanks Dr Lefthandthread! 👍👍
I found thermal fuse but it's saying 250v will it work?
Yes 👍
Gracias por compartir la solucion
Eres muy bienvenida!
My milwaukee soldering iron show it is at temp but cold replacement heater and fuse still cold any other tips please.
If it's showing it's at temp but it's cold it sounds like a problem on the part of the circuit that reads the NTC built into the heater. You'd have to trace the two wires that sense the temperature from the heater back into the PCB. I would think there would be a couple of resistors (potential divider) or possibly an op amp and then it would go into the microcontroller. I'd be checking the components on this part of the circuit as one of the resistors may have gone open circuit. Sorry I can't be more specific as I've not had this problem or traced that part of the circuit myself.
Hi there. I have replaced my faulty fuse, it was definitely dead.. but now all 4 red lights flash and it turns off. Any idea?
I'm not 100% sounds like it's sensing an error. Are the 4 wires going to the element ok?
@@BuyitFixit they appear to be. There is no obvious problem, so I ordered a new ceramic element, for a few quid, so that’s the next replacement..
..thank you for responding by the way. Respect.
@@benwithjamin hopefully that sorts it. I did a video repairing another 3 of these and I show the resistance of the elements. It may be useful if you want to compare with your current element, and replace the element in one of the irons...
Whats the reistance of the heating element?
I'm not 100% on that, but I do have another 3 to look at so I can measure it then. I plan to do a video on them soon.
Wonder why they crimp instead of soldering them
I'd guess so the heat of the soldering iron / solder doesn't travel down the wire and melt (blow) the internals of the fuse.
Just cut the fuse out and solder new fuse to old crimps, just use a few crocodile clips between fuse and ends you solder, to no blow the fuse
Thanks 👍. I did see another video where they did that. I've got another 3 to look at. I think one has the element snapped. Probably be a video on those soon...
Well from previous videos where we see flux is almost NEVER used, the cost of soldering shit in the UK must be exorbitantly expensive. So I guess given the cost of flux and solder to do a “better than factory” repair in the UK, it must be ok to just just save 2 minutes and crimp that shit. 🤷🏻♂️
Most thermal fuses are crimped so they don't blow due to the heat from soldering. Not sure what you mean by other videos and flux as I personally use flux all the time, especially when doing SMD rework.
go easy on that heating element, banging it around it the main reason the element fails
M
H
Le metí un fusible de carro del 15 y también jalo alv
😜😂😂😂😂
Hello, I have the same problem with my milwaukee soldering iron and I have only been able to find thermal fuses of 157 ° C 10 Amp and 142 ° C 15Amp which you recommend and regarding the voltage has to be 250v?
The voltage is only 12v but the fuses are used in other things hence being rated for 250v. I can't remember the rating of the original off hand but I've got another 3 of these to do in a future video soon..