Something I would like to mention. I had a p0299 code on my mk6 GTi. I checked for boost leaks and checked the wastegate rod. Everything seemed good. I gave in and sent it to the dealer( I don't work on many turbo VW so i thought it was best.). Dealer told me it needed a turbo. Which i agree. It was passing a lot of oil. I replaced my turbo with a nice new one. Still was getting p0299 and lacking performance. I did some data logging over a few days and all different driving conditions. I thought maybe I had an exhaust restriction. I took the o2 sensor out of the turbo housing(CBFA) and put a bore scope in. Saw the cat looked like a solid black chunk. Replaced the downpipe and checked for boost leaks again. This was months ago and the car is running great and no more p0299. While my situation was rare I wanted to put this out there for anyone who is desperately trying to figure it out and exhausted all other options.
Mine was shooting same code. Couldn’t figure it out. Yesterday I went to start it and it blew white or gray smoke now there’s oil everywhere on backside of engine and car sputtering really bad. Still don’t know what’s wrong with it
@@dermotricketts7099 My understanding is that the wastegate actuator is part of the actual turbo. It looks to be on the hot side and I don't think you can replace just the actuator. I'm sure it is a bearing that starts to fail at which point it takes out the seal and then you loose boost. I think you have to replace the turbo itself as the wastegate actuator is not serviceable. You will need to double check my option as I am no way an expert, or even an experienced vw/turbo mechanic, on vw’s. I am a mechanic but very little experience with the vw and/or turbo chargers, in general. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy VW’ing!!!
The Wastegate rattle is popular, but in my experience, the actuator arm going to the diaphragm can get sluggish or even seized where it won't open as it supposed to making it sluggish/ wont return all the way to make it seal/ or get stuck partially or fully open. Best way is to just get under there and start looking . Good info for people who are unfamiliar with some of the issues that can plague these cars.
If you have a VW or Audi before 2014, p0299 can also be a bad diverter valve. The older ones have a diaphragm in them that crack and tear. Can replace with a newer piston version.
@@wasifshehriar3669No that would be the Wastegate not properly seating meaning it's loose and rattling around. There's a couple fixes without having to replace the turbo, including the part itself on FCPEuro. There are clips for it too which help support the actuator too.
I just was test driving my 2012 GTI after replacing the intake manifold. When I got home, I checked the ecu for any codes, and this code was present. I opened UA-cam, and without even searching anything, this was the first suggested video in my feed. Once my car is cool, I'm going to try this out. Thank you once again, Charles!
Would also like to thank you for your videos and response to my comments. I bought a 2013 GTI DSG for wholesale cost because it had issues(underboost,misfires,brakes). With your help I have got it sorted out and am still far below book value or even typical asking price in my area.
There are workarounds for the bad flapper. I pulled the wastegate, cut the arm, threaded a piece on the end to be able to adjust it and was able to fix the slack. Fixed the p0299 issue.
I’ve got a 2019 cayenne in my bay that I’ve been trying to chase the 299 on. I replaced the diverter valve due to leaking. It came back with the same code. I smoked it again and found nothing. I test drove and researched and finally found this vid. Needless to say, it’s getting a new snail. Thank you for the help. ✌️
I have used VCDS to for a boost leak check. I used to log and plot the values on a graph in excel versus the RPM. You also can see boost curves too for curiosity. And like you said, look for the specified and actual. I'm pushing 20.0 psi with APR stage 2+ with other bolt ons which potentially can cause boost leaks. They're all fine 2 years later. A big thing for those who have early 2.0 TSI engines, I believe 2010 and older, it's the diverter valve. Early engines had a rubber diaphragm that tends to rupture and you have no boost at all. I caught mine before it was going to tear. 2011's and newer got the revised piston DV. You can either do that, or keep the solenoid part and go with GFB DV+ if you're tuned (recommend it). You will get a fault code but it doesn't do anything and no check engine light. Holds boost very well and vents much faster
hey man ! can i ask you for help? i have a BWA (2006) 2.0 tfsi engine......and after a highway round i get a whistle voice from the turbo side (i recorded it, bit.ly/2kiANPq , boost starts from 0.03 sec) . while the engine is "tepid" (not hot) i dont hear this whistle (and have 16-17psi boost, when the engine is hot i have only 9-12psi).... :S maybe is just a loose bolt? where the boost leaks? I hope there is no problem with the DV....
More than likely that is the DV. If you havent replaced it and you still have the original DV, it is that. I caught mine before it was about to tear. You can either to 1 of two things. GFB DV+ which is what I did, or get the upgraded Rev C which has the piston. GFB is for performance applications and works better. Uses the original solenoid. Rev C is an entirely brand new assembly. Pain in the ass to get to If it isn't the DV, check every single connection from the turbo, charge pipe, intercooler on both sides, then throttle body pipe. I would suspect the DV is the cause
Thanks man! So, i bought the car as used a few months ago....but as far as i remember (when i checked the turbo) it has the original one.....i dont have a turbo related error code only p0441 (purge flow error). I was on a short test recently today, with a tepid engine and havent heard that little noise, and got the boost properly....around 16psi :S (dont you think that, if the DV would wrong i always should have a minor leak? in case of cold/tepid engine as well (?)) But thats true i also got an informations from my mechanic about that the earlier (2.0) TFSI engines has a naughty DV...and can able to burn or tear...because of the heat. maybe i will try to check the bolts and pipes/gaskets before....and if still have the psi loss with HOT engine, i'll take care of a new DV for sure. what do you think about Runtek DV+? www.ebay.com/itm/like/172439568818?lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&item=172439568818&rmvSB=true Its just 38$....maybe its a fake? :S
MaxCo I wouldn't trust that DV lol. Seems like it's a knock off version of GFB. Either way, I would just go with the GFB DV+ even though it costs $130. I've had it for 3 years and it's never given me issues. It does throw a code because of the stiff spring is uses. P2261 or something like that but never throws a check engine light. GFB said if you want to eliminate that code, remove the spring but you won't get the performance benefits of the DV+. It spools up much quicker, holds boost better, and releases boost much faster than stock. All the VW techs at my dealer know about it if my main tech isn't there which is rare. Besides. I'm holding 20-21 psi with mine no problem.
MaxCo I also have a 2010 with the earlier CCTA engine so yes I know all about the DV going bad. I could see a line in the rubber diaphragm where it would've torn. Also, do you have a boost gauge? That's another cause of boost leak too. The vacuum block adapter that goes on the intake manifold.
My VW Golf (1.4 tsi 122 hp dsg 165000 km.) went into fail safe mode on several occasions when driving on the Autobahn. After looking into the matter (vcds and checking the arm of the wastegate) I decided to replace the turbo for a brand new Garrett turbo. Costs : 500 euro and 2,5 hrs. of labour. Now runs like a new tsi again.
Our previous Tiguan which was a 2010 had the turbo fail at around 110k then the timing chain tensioner at around 11400. Which basically damaged the whole engine, cost to repair was going to be around 8000 CAD which was about half the value of the car at the time. However, VW covered 70% of the cost for parts damaged by the tensioner failure, because the car was out if warranty by only a couple of months, and because of customer loyalty. It was disappointing to say the least, but it didn't deter us enough from getting another.
Hi Charles. I really enjoy watching the video blogs/how-to's for both VW and Audis that you make and as well as Paul. I am new into the VW/Audi family as I have picked up an 06 A4 B7 2.0T FSI. Since picking this vehicle up, Ive been have all sorts of problems. from overboost, to underboost, to cyl4 misfire and other Pcodes that I have seen.I have replaced the TurboCharger with an alternative brand as my old one (WG flapper) assembly was wobbly. Ive ran a boost leak and tighten all pipes,etc.still having the issue. ive replace the diverter valve with the updated version and even purchased the GFB+ and swapped it out with a new DV and then a hybrid BOV. I even replaced the N75 with latest rev. Ive cleaned the gunk out of the intake. replaced the cam follower and also vacuum pump. replaced most of vacuum lines. inspected the BSH revamp delete kit. replaced the PCV valve. What i do notice is that when the engine is idle, i can hear a slight hissing sound but unable to pinpoint it. no leaks from valve cover. there are many times it can only boost at or barely 5. but if i were to start the vehicle in the morning, the car can exceed 5 ~ 15ish @ avg 4.5k rpm. There's also this hesitation when accelerating (it does feel fluid). The car has about 186k miles. compression is at (i might have to use another compression tester) cyl 1~ 3@ 115 and cyl4@ 91. No blue smoke from the tailpipe. car also has an APR stage one ecm upgrade when i purchased the vehicle used earlier this year. someone told be to swap it out with a stock computer to see if the apr upgrade has something to do with it. I do have an obdeleven that i purchased from Paul at www.Shopdap.com and have used to the best of my ability to check the codes, email them and clear em. I also have a boost gauge in the center vent but have not traced it where its connecting to. though one thing i can say is that there is this small vacuum hose that is connected to the intake manifold and reduces the hose to a size similar to 1/8 ID (?) and then connected to some see through inline filter and then connected to a barb fitting and then it is fed through the ecm box. From there Im not sure where it leads to. I really dont want to give up as I have invested alot of time, sweat (living in vegas), long late nights away from the fam while working in the garage. Any suggestion(s) is really appreciated as i would love to get this vehicle back to its glorious state. Cheers, Jason
Just finished the DV swap on a 2013 Tiguan 2.0T TSI this morning.. Easy Peasy, 30min max. Unplugged the harness on the factory unit, and oil ran out of the connector.. Yep, she's done.
Agreed 100%. Great video. 4 motion Tiguan #1. Tiguan #2 then CC #3. Info is spot on. Newer models are way easier to diagnose than the old 1.8t and etc.
Turbo in my 1.8t was definitely bad... It smoked like a freight train whenever it was running, pulled it out, was a total loss. Great video, I used this to make sure a turbo was bad. Turned out to be a failed actuator.
My 2010 Audi A4 130kmiles had this exact same problem. At least this helps me to understand what the dealer was talking about. The only symptoms I noticed were a loss of performance.
I am a senior citizen who owned an O7 Audi A4. Car was a nonstop litany of recalls, electric problems, and turbo issues. At 50K, the turbo ceased altogether--a $4,000 repair. You'd think that VW/Audi could get this 2.0 turbo sorted out. They've only been making this engine for 15+ years.
Bought a brand new apr k04 kit for my octavia EA888.2 straight off apr dealer. I'm facing the same under boost error. Although apr is suggesting me to reset the wastegate mechanism, I've a gut feeling that the issue is happening due to apr providing us a 3.5 Bar sensor wherein k04 run flawlessly on 3 bar tune. Gonna load the 3 bar tune next week to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I'll have to proceed to reset wastegate. Excellent video!
I had an underboost fault lately in my 2017 1.6 tdi vw golf mk7. Checked the codes, even glow plug error jumped in alongside all of the turbo underboost ones. It turned out to be a single small hose that got disconnected. The one just over the turbine. I cut and shortened it and slid it in and suddenly there was no error anymore. I think I will replace most of the hoses, tubings on the engine in the near future, cause even thou they arent that old, more and more problems start to occur related to these. The quality on the modern vehicles is really bad...
Following up. I bought the OE rattle clip (06J145220A) for my 2012 GTI TSI CCTA. I am absolutely not a mechanical person but I want to do this myself. I have no jacks, lifts, or fancy tools. Is it possible for me to reach from the top passenger side down with my arm to feel this play, and as well to install the clip? How might you propose installing something like this with the car on the ground. Thanks, Charles!
Bought a 2011 VW Tiguan 4Motion from the dealer. Ended up having a bad turbo charger. Luckily they're replacing the turbo with a VW used turbo, free of charge. Hopefully it works out and the used turbo is good.
Another excellent video. Finally hunted down my mk6 gti undeboost problem. Been watching a lot of your videos. I got to say that they have helped. I actually watched your videos before i bought a VW and before i even had any plans to buy one.
What do you call SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is HumbleMechanic Sharing what you know with us great video Thank you very much. Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
There's no such thing as just get a better turbo this drivel is such nonsense without painting the entire picture. What's required to SUPPORT a better turbo upgrade where you can drive on an unrestricted road and top out at insane speeds because of that supporting ECU upgrade and 3" DP upgrade and the Full Catback SS 2.5" or 3" Exhaust upgrade and the Upgraded DV with accompanying Boost gauge and the Transmission upgrade with the Upgraded Clutch Kit and the Suspension upgrade and the Brakes and Brake lines upgrade. After all, you do want to Experience the full potential of having a better turbo just don't misguide people with info like it's a one part upgrade when it involves many other parts and nothing of quality comes cheap!
I have a 2006 2.0TFSI has the same code. Replaced a turbo that I know has done 90,000 miles, car was great with replacement "Ridex Turbo". It lasted about 4 months and the code returned along with a rattle. Figured the turbo was good so changed the DV to a REV G and the car was slightly better but still had P0299. Took it to a mechanic and turns out the wastegate had fallen off and was rattling around inside the turbo. New Borgwarner unit being installed by the shop.
CHECK ALL YOUR SENSORS! I had p299, epc, plus some slight timing chain rattle, low power, low torque response, p130a, p2337, p102f codes that ALL got fixed after replacing my CRANKSHAFT SENSOR! All my other sensors were pretty new except this one and didn't even expect a fix when I replaced and everything was fixed. Before expensive parts I recommend trying the sensors. I apid for a shop diag that didn't even mention sensors and luckily tried it on my own. I've driven it hard even at full throttle multiple times now and no engine lights weird noise so far. on the new sensor. Power and torque all feel great. Wish I'd replaced the sensor 50k miles ago. '14 Jetta 1.8 tsi
+HumbleMechanic I have a 2010 mk6 with 80k on it broke down on me today and would say I take care of my car exceptionally well and it just died on me! I love my GTI but I think I'm going to have to switch brands after this!
@alltech1690Honestly I've just never found a brand that didn't have catastrophic failure built into its design. From Cadillac Devilles to CTS-V Wagon, to my old Stratus R/T to my Scat, to my Jetta GLI to my Audi A5, to my Bentley Continental to my Toyota Camry; all of these gobshite vehicles are built to fall apart.
@@HumbleMechanic so I just replaced my turbo and it came with a diverter valve installed already.. so I figured its was plug-play.. so I cleared codes and took for test drive. now when i Accelerate it Putters... it ran fine on the lift and for a block and a half. I dont have access to vagcom atm. I work at Nissan and I have a snapon scan tool, what could be wrong??
Hi Charles like you said I got a Tiguan with the same under boost fault and it was loose on the waste gate pivot I installed the anti rattle clip that you can get at the VW parts department it's meant to reduce the noise from a loose waste gate but I installed it and it did solved the under boost for a while but the other day when the customer came in for a service there was a fault for low boost but at least it's way better with the clip on now what I do is on all CCTA engines I install the clip before the the problem is there I think that it will help prevent the wear of the waste gate there is an other thing to look for is the cut off valve on the turbocharger if the car is a early production it might have an old style valve with a torn diaphragm I've seen it before the other day I got a Jetta with this fault and the hose close from the throttle body for the sound generator for inside the car the spring clip was left off when the dealer replaced the injectors on warranty.
MIDLEADING INFORMATION: You can get the wastegate actuator replaced or send it somewhere where they rebuild turbos (way cheaper than dropping over $700 on a new OEM turbo). Also you forgot to mention to check play on the turbine if it moves in and out. Also spin the turbine and if it feels like it hits something, then it’s bad as well. One last check is really easy, run the car hard (pedal to the medal) for at least a good 30 minutes at night. Then park in a dark area, open the hood and check the catalytic converter. If it’s glowing red hot like if it’s lava then turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust system and intake system. You can also smell the burn every time you do a hard pull. You don’t need a new turbo, you can get it repaired/rebuild. You can even buy a good used one. One last thing, expect the life of your turbo to drop drastically if you run a Stage 1 tune or higher. Hopefully this helps someone
Hey I have a 2004 Audi AT 1.8t and last year I upgraded to the K04 turbo with software upgrade, injectors, and high flow CAT. Everything has been running great and still does, except about 6 months ago I noticed my exhaust manifold and turbo housing getting red hot. I mean literally glowing. I used my infrared thermometer and it read 900°. I know turbos are meant to withstand a ton of heat, but what could be the cause of this? Again, no under boost condition. Should I get a high flow exhaust manifold?
Dillon Clark, you're probably running too lean. What's your AFR when under load going through the RPM range? And did you get a proper tune after the upgrades to your injectors, turbo, and high flow cat? How about your fuel pump? Is it able to keep up? Finally, how big are your gaps on your plugs? Bigger gap means bigger spark means hotter burn (potentially)
Hello Charles, I´m writing from Ecuador. Thanks for the useful videos you publish. One quick question, would you advice to buy a 2.0 tsi or 1.8 tsi equiped car? here I have a couple of options with very low mileage cars. Both passats 2014 with less than 40 k miles! I own a skoda octavia tdi and I have changed the turbo twice already,,,, thanks so much for your time and answer!!
Gjergj Konomi what kind of Audi? I am getting a sudden hesitation under heavy accel and just yesterday noticed a whistle sound. It is a 2012 A3. He seems to indicate that if you hear a whistle then it is tubing from the turbo to the throttle body?
There was a moment in the video that HumbleMechanic didn't blink for more than 30 seconds! I think he's a robot and needs to reprogram his ecu. :) Nice videos!
OMG "the pin on the waste-gate rattling around" There are a LOT of complaints online about the 2019 Jettas that are having rattling noises once the car is engaged between 25-35 mph! Could this be the issue? If so, would the waste gate need to be replaced/fix? There's even a couple of youtube videos proving this noise is happening every time between those speeds, too!
I don't have this code. Only code I is crankshaft and camshaft. But I do have white smoke. Would you have any idea what is could be? Thank you in advanced Love, the videos have helped a lot.
Working on VW and Audi has got to be a goldmine considering they constantly break and have problems. LOL. They are very nice when running well though. Fairly efficient and sporty.
We do a lot of these on 2.0t tfsi a4's and you can distinctly hear the waste gate rattle when shutting the engine off or after simply revving the engine up.. On the Audi side we have extended warranty for the worn out waste gates, in Canada at least
Hi, thank you for your video, could you please tell me how can the problem of west gate arm movement be fixed? Maybe you have some videos or tutorials or links for me? thanks in advance anyway!
I had cleaned the whole housing of the turbo intake alway to the throttle body and still lacks. I need to tear down the down pipe to see the waist gage for that play you showed. Bcus if its that I'll need a new turbo $1400😬
Thank you. I just bought a 2013 gti with this code. Now i know steps to troubleshoot and the issues to look out for. Charge pipes and intercooler i checked first thing
@@HumbleMechanic Thanks. I bought the car for less then half of its book value. I got a shop that claims they can fix the wastegate for $250 if it comes to it. Thanks to your video i will follow all steps before pulling the turbo.
I could really use your help with a Audi 4.0t engine I’m having issues with. I think it’s having the turbo issues that comes with that engine. Runs fine when cold. But after it warms up, it has problems starting and starts misfiring, there is a ton of black build up on time of the turbos themselves. Mabey the oil separator? Or is that build up on the turbos coolant? Leaking coolant into the turbo causing misfire?
Charles, I just saw your video about extra training for techs. I'm a journeyman and started working for VW just over a year ago. Would you consider doing a "Tech Series" going over your experiences as a foreman and things you've found that help you diagnose stuff in the shop, common issues, and weird issues you've run into?
+Duncan MacWilliam that's a good idea. I've talked about a lot of that kind of thing in the past. I have had a show about being a shop Forman on my mind a lately.
Hello guys .I repair only westgate valve on my mk6 GTI using special materials.No need replace turbo only westgate, if you have error code P0299.But you need check also air pressure valve.
Hey Humble Mechanic! Loved the video, super informative. Question... My 2011 coded and it was the check engine light. The code was P0299. The dealership confirmed it was my turbo and recommend replacing it. The price was too high and so I'm holding on for my old VW mechanic. Today the light was on, then I got back in my car and the check engine light went out. Since the diagnosis I've been driving it very gingerly. Any thoughts on why the light's out?
Great video! I think my wastegate actuator arm is causing an annoying rattle and low rpm 1000-2000rpm low boost. Was told this is considered normal operation of my turbo. I’m having no boost issues or codes coming up. Is a little bit of play on the actuator arm itself ok? Now freaking out my turbo is about to blow 😳 Thanks
I got an unusual cause of a p0299. Restricted cat. Not fully clogged but restricted. I actually replaced the turbo based off what the dealer told me and still same issue. I have a cbfa and took out the o2 sensor on the turbo and hooked up my vaccum/boost gauge that is connected with a couple adaptors and started the car. At idle it was 2 psi reved a bit and went to 8 psi. Edit: forgot to mention I only had a p0299 code and nothing else.
My is38 blew yesterday, for some time under wot the car was making a bit of a whining/pinging noise, car has been stage 2 since the end of January, revision H
I work at a VW dealership just did a turbo on an 11 Tiguan with 36,000 miles, same code found turbo bearing to have completely failled and destroyed the fins. Similar one also failed at 86k 2016 Tiguan.
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro, this is the 3rd time in less than a year that I have replaced the DV and I still get the P0299 code. What I think that makes this unique is that when the car is running cool, it's a beast! But as soon as its up to running temperature its pure sluggish. I notice that when the P0299 does come on its usually on some type of incline (me going up hill), or merging on to the highway. I hit the gas and it doesn't do anything. Again when its cold, its a beast. But as soon as it warms up this happens. I have been finding multiple answer for P0299 , MAFS, PCV, Cat, this video. But Im thinking that the temperature issue might help diagnose it further. I read that it could be a leak somewhere because of the metal expanding when its hot. Still not sure. Oh and after an oil change at about 3,000 miles i get a low oil light. and then I add a quart. Please help if you can. I love the car and it normally drives great, but this acceleration issue is a pain in the ass. thanks again!
similar issue here....i have a 2.0 tfsi leon. I have around 16-17 psi with warm (but not hot!) engine...but it drops to 9-12 psi after a 10-15 mins highway round (constant 3500-4000rpm). otherwise i dont have an error code for this, but after the highway round i hear a whistle voice/sound from the turbo side...so i guess i have to tighten the bolts on the exh. manifold (so there is a boost leak)....but you cant tighten them on cold engine :/
Have you seen a turbo on say a 2010 cc blow a turbo seal an bellow smoke from the exhaust as well as leak from exhaust side? Will not over heat but lots of white smoke an oil in exhaust
I love ur videos,,,I'm having a problem with my 2010 Passat wagon with the 2.0 tsi engine,,,codes are high fuel pressure an lean feul trims at idle only an the intake manifold adjuster code ,,no misfiring under load so I've replaced the PVC valve it was bad obviously ,but sometimes when I start it sitting at idle it almost stalls or does ,the rpms will go from 900 to 1500 back an forth,unless I have the AC on then it idles normal at 900 an runs smoothly,,but sometimes putting it in drive or reverse it'll stall out on me ,any ideas on what else I should be checking I've cleaned my mass air, replaced plugs an filter checked for leaks an it kinda sounds like there's a leak but t I'm not getting any boost codes only high feul pressure an lean at idle only an manifold adjuster code but,the arm on the adjuster is still connected an doesn't seem to be leaking I'm just beating my head against the wall tryn to fix this issue,I'm about to replacing the O2 sensors the wastegate control valve the boost recirculate valve an the masairflow an I have an intake manifold adjuster repair kit coming,like I said sometimes when I start the car usually after driving I park it an when I start it again it'll run ruff an the engine light blinks at idle ,,it never blinks when driving no matter how hard I get on it ,it's just weird ,,I have some automotive knowledge so I'm not completely Dum to engines I've rebuilt a few ,an done many head gaskets,,but I'm not familiar with stock turbo engines ,I love ur videos an that's why I replaced the PVC valve Wich was bad ,an the car is driving way better but I'm still having this issue,,any idea or suggestions would help ,,,I Know it's hard to diagnose my issue without seeing it for urself ,but I'm hoping u can give some insight into what could be going on ,,an like I said it (mostly) does the ruff idle after I have drove the car an parked it for little bit an start it again ,,,also I fell alotta boost lag takes a second to really build up boost ,I don't have a boost gauge yet but I will be installing it done so I can see what the pressure says but again I'm not getting any codes for boost Tru the obd ,only manifold adjuster,lean at idle ,an high fuel pressure,even with new pcv valve 😥 thanks again if your reading this
hey Charles, couldn't you just purchase an aftermarket waste gate acutator with a threaded rod and adjust the preload tension rather than the entire turbo? it seems that the wastegate flapper would still seal, just that the original wastegate has worn quite a bit causing it to lose its preload tension on the flapper when shut.
as far as i know, you dont need to buy an entire new one. just take it to a turborepair company, so they can fix it for a lower price. (and they will check the other parts -vanes,axis,etc- of it as well).
Hi, i can feel there's no play in the rod from the actuator at all. But there's still a chance that the wastegate flapper is loose? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Love your videos, very helpful. I've got an 06 A3 with the low boost code. OBDeleven live data shows it's making zero boost. No noticable play on the wastegate arm at all. No obvious big boost leaks. Car has the updated DV. Any ideas aside from a bad turbo?
what were the symptoms of a failing n75? And did you diy, if so can you tell me the steps? The issue im having is when building boost around 2500-3000 rpm is sluggish but after 3000 it builds boost fine. I've replace the diverter valve and no change, also looked at the wastegate actuator rod and wastegate flap rod there is no play at all. So i might be thinking the n75 has failed and there might be a boost leak. So if you have any troubleshooting advice that would be awesome! Thanks.
My 2013 Tiguan has 150k miles on it. The turbo underboost fault appeared. It appears there are two common solutions to this code. One is the wastegate fix in your video and the other is a turbocharger diverter valve replacement. The diverter valve replacement looks pretty straight forward. How do we open up and access the turbo body to replace the gate? Do I need to remove the entire turbo system from the car?
Hey Charles, whats the procedure to install on a 4motion tiguan. I noticed the installation will be different than the fwds I have seen on youtube. Thanks
@@shaneinfinity4597 yes I did, it worked out great, the only problem was I needed to change all fittings and pipes because the turbo pointed the other way.
thats awesome and unfortunate at the same time :( im going to wait till the end of summer to see where CTS is with the kit. If they take longer then that or overprice the kit (it'll be the only bolt on option in existence) then Ill will attempt the IS38 swap
I have a question if anyone can answer it, the "whistling" sound that he's talking about does it sound like a clean whistle or not? Mine makes what I would describe as rustling leaves noise. Is that something else I need to look into?
I'm not a mechanic but did enjoy this? I just a few months ago purchased a 2017 X1 (F49). It's only the 2nd car I've owned with a turbo. I'm worried since my 1st one a Saab 95 the turbo started leaking oil later years. So I'm still gun shy about turbo's. This car has 51K on it. So I know regular proper oil changes are key? BMW says 10K which I think is insane I always stick to 6K max with top rated synthetic oil. Now BMW says 0-20 oil. I've heard they did that more for MPG but not sure? Was told maybe 5-30 would be better for the engine but worried about the turbo too. What do you think? I'm in Georgia so the cold won't be an issue much but once the engine warms up that's my concern. Liquid Molly got 5-30 and 5-40 BMW certified they say for me car they say the 5-30 now and 5-40 when I get higher miles like over 75K.
Great video! I have this issue on my Skoda 18.TSI, year 2014 and I'm wondering should I replace turbocharger with the exact same model or to look for upgrades as dealer is claiming that this problem is not a warranty issue?
HI, HUMBLE, i have a 2006 passat 2.0 turbo engine and would like to know the measurement specifications for camshaft lobe, the one drives the cam follower and high pressure pump, i would love to hear if you can help me with that info. thanks a lot and keep going w great technical info videos.
I have a grinding sound when turning left on my 15 passat or when I’m on a sideways incline when I put the car in gear. Could this be the compressor wheel hitting the housing or waste gate rattle? Also noticed oil around the outside of the lowest discharge fitting. No codes. Any help appreciated, really enjoy your videos.
I'm having a problem of clearing my codes on my 2013 passat 2.5.manual. It has 55k miles, I change my oil and spark plugs. I tried to reset the service reset, but not doing it right. I'm a home mechanic that can do certain projects. I have a scran tool that can't clear codes. The scanner shows no problems, but can't clear the reset on the vechile. Please help, because of the procedures on UA-cam are vague. It's a strip down passat without steering wheel functions that clear codes. A basic passat, please help me. Of course because I have a VW, always watch your videos. Your advise is better than going to a VW service center. I hope you can help me out.
Something I would like to mention. I had a p0299 code on my mk6 GTi. I checked for boost leaks and checked the wastegate rod. Everything seemed good. I gave in and sent it to the dealer( I don't work on many turbo VW so i thought it was best.). Dealer told me it needed a turbo. Which i agree. It was passing a lot of oil. I replaced my turbo with a nice new one. Still was getting p0299 and lacking performance. I did some data logging over a few days and all different driving conditions. I thought maybe I had an exhaust restriction. I took the o2 sensor out of the turbo housing(CBFA) and put a bore scope in. Saw the cat looked like a solid black chunk. Replaced the downpipe and checked for boost leaks again. This was months ago and the car is running great and no more p0299.
While my situation was rare I wanted to put this out there for anyone who is desperately trying to figure it out and exhausted all other options.
Wow!!! Got call. They should have caught that when doing the turbo
Yes! Thank you very much.
Was the blocked cat cashing the oil?
I have oil build up going to my intercooler on a MK5 golf GTi.. I assumed the turbo was dying..
Mine was shooting same code. Couldn’t figure it out. Yesterday I went to start it and it blew white or gray smoke now there’s oil everywhere on backside of engine and car sputtering really bad. Still don’t know what’s wrong with it
You hands down, have the best VW videos on youtube.
+ShotgunFelatio thank you .
I agree best
Were you saying the wastegate actuator is defective or that the turbo charger is bad? I was not sure. Which is it?
@@dermotricketts7099
My understanding is that the wastegate actuator is part of the actual turbo. It looks to be on the hot side and I don't think you can replace just the actuator. I'm sure it is a bearing that starts to fail at which point it takes out the seal and then you loose boost. I think you have to replace the turbo itself as the wastegate actuator is not serviceable. You will need to double check my option as I am no way an expert, or even an experienced vw/turbo mechanic, on vw’s. I am a mechanic but very little experience with the vw and/or turbo chargers, in general. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy VW’ing!!!
@@DFWJonYou can replace the actuator and the wastegate. There’s absolutely no need to change the entire turbo.
The Wastegate rattle is popular, but in my experience, the actuator arm going to the diaphragm can get sluggish or even seized where it won't open as it supposed to making it sluggish/ wont return all the way to make it seal/ or get stuck partially or fully open. Best way is to just get under there and start looking . Good info for people who are unfamiliar with some of the issues that can plague these cars.
If you have a VW or Audi before 2014, p0299 can also be a bad diverter valve. The older ones have a diaphragm in them that crack and tear. Can replace with a newer piston version.
But what if I actually hear the wastegate rattle while revving it in Neutral? Wouldn't be a diverter valve. would it?
@@wasifshehriar3669No that would be the Wastegate not properly seating meaning it's loose and rattling around. There's a couple fixes without having to replace the turbo, including the part itself on FCPEuro. There are clips for it too which help support the actuator too.
I just was test driving my 2012 GTI after replacing the intake manifold. When I got home, I checked the ecu for any codes, and this code was present. I opened UA-cam, and without even searching anything, this was the first suggested video in my feed. Once my car is cool, I'm going to try this out. Thank you once again, Charles!
Thank you so much. I found this kind of problem in my Audi A3 2012. Took off the turbo and changed the axis of the wastegate for a brand new ones.
Would also like to thank you for your videos and response to my comments. I bought a 2013 GTI DSG for wholesale cost because it had issues(underboost,misfires,brakes). With your help I have got it sorted out and am still far below book value or even typical asking price in my area.
Awesome.
I love working on a hot engine reminds of playing the game operation wheni was a kid lol
Sean Thomas Of The Rauchert Family
Ha ha ha ha
There are workarounds for the bad flapper. I pulled the wastegate, cut the arm, threaded a piece on the end to be able to adjust it and was able to fix the slack. Fixed the p0299 issue.
I’ve got a 2019 cayenne in my bay that I’ve been trying to chase the 299 on. I replaced the diverter valve due to leaking. It came back with the same code. I smoked it again and found nothing. I test drove and researched and finally found this vid. Needless to say, it’s getting a new snail. Thank you for the help. ✌️
I have used VCDS to for a boost leak check. I used to log and plot the values on a graph in excel versus the RPM. You also can see boost curves too for curiosity. And like you said, look for the specified and actual. I'm pushing 20.0 psi with APR stage 2+ with other bolt ons which potentially can cause boost leaks. They're all fine 2 years later.
A big thing for those who have early 2.0 TSI engines, I believe 2010 and older, it's the diverter valve. Early engines had a rubber diaphragm that tends to rupture and you have no boost at all. I caught mine before it was going to tear. 2011's and newer got the revised piston DV. You can either do that, or keep the solenoid part and go with GFB DV+ if you're tuned (recommend it). You will get a fault code but it doesn't do anything and no check engine light. Holds boost very well and vents much faster
hey man ! can i ask you for help? i have a BWA (2006) 2.0 tfsi engine......and after a highway round i get a whistle voice from the turbo side (i recorded it, bit.ly/2kiANPq , boost starts from 0.03 sec) . while the engine is "tepid" (not hot) i dont hear this whistle (and have 16-17psi boost, when the engine is hot i have only 9-12psi).... :S maybe is just a loose bolt? where the boost leaks? I hope there is no problem with the DV....
More than likely that is the DV. If you havent replaced it and you still have the original DV, it is that. I caught mine before it was about to tear. You can either to 1 of two things. GFB DV+ which is what I did, or get the upgraded Rev C which has the piston. GFB is for performance applications and works better. Uses the original solenoid. Rev C is an entirely brand new assembly. Pain in the ass to get to
If it isn't the DV, check every single connection from the turbo, charge pipe, intercooler on both sides, then throttle body pipe. I would suspect the DV is the cause
Thanks man! So, i bought the car as used a few months ago....but as far as i remember (when i checked the turbo) it has the original one.....i dont have a turbo related error code only p0441 (purge flow error). I was on a short test recently today, with a tepid engine and havent heard that little noise, and got the boost properly....around 16psi :S (dont you think that, if the DV would wrong i always should have a minor leak? in case of cold/tepid engine as well (?))
But thats true i also got an informations from my mechanic about that the earlier (2.0) TFSI engines has a naughty DV...and can able to burn or tear...because of the heat. maybe i will try to check the bolts and pipes/gaskets before....and if still have the psi loss with HOT engine, i'll take care of a new DV for sure.
what do you think about Runtek DV+? www.ebay.com/itm/like/172439568818?lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&item=172439568818&rmvSB=true
Its just 38$....maybe its a fake? :S
MaxCo I wouldn't trust that DV lol. Seems like it's a knock off version of GFB. Either way, I would just go with the GFB DV+ even though it costs $130. I've had it for 3 years and it's never given me issues. It does throw a code because of the stiff spring is uses. P2261 or something like that but never throws a check engine light. GFB said if you want to eliminate that code, remove the spring but you won't get the performance benefits of the DV+. It spools up much quicker, holds boost better, and releases boost much faster than stock. All the VW techs at my dealer know about it if my main tech isn't there which is rare. Besides. I'm holding 20-21 psi with mine no problem.
MaxCo I also have a 2010 with the earlier CCTA engine so yes I know all about the DV going bad. I could see a line in the rubber diaphragm where it would've torn. Also, do you have a boost gauge? That's another cause of boost leak too. The vacuum block adapter that goes on the intake manifold.
My VW Golf (1.4 tsi 122 hp dsg 165000 km.) went into fail safe mode on several occasions when driving on the Autobahn. After looking into the matter (vcds and checking the arm of the wastegate) I decided to replace the turbo for a brand new Garrett turbo. Costs : 500 euro and 2,5 hrs. of labour. Now runs like a new tsi again.
Where did you buy the turbo from?
Our previous Tiguan which was a 2010 had the turbo fail at around 110k then the timing chain tensioner at around 11400. Which basically damaged the whole engine, cost to repair was going to be around 8000 CAD which was about half the value of the car at the time. However, VW covered 70% of the cost for parts damaged by the tensioner failure, because the car was out if warranty by only a couple of months, and because of customer loyalty. It was disappointing to say the least, but it didn't deter us enough from getting another.
How did you get VW to cover anything being out of warranty ?
Hi Charles. I really enjoy watching the video blogs/how-to's for both VW and Audis that you make and as well as Paul.
I am new into the VW/Audi family as I have picked up an 06 A4 B7 2.0T FSI. Since picking this vehicle up, Ive been have all sorts of problems. from overboost, to underboost, to cyl4 misfire and other Pcodes that I have seen.I have replaced the TurboCharger with an alternative brand as my old one (WG flapper) assembly was wobbly. Ive ran a boost leak and tighten all pipes,etc.still having the issue. ive replace the diverter valve with the updated version and even purchased the GFB+ and swapped it out with a new DV and then a hybrid BOV. I even replaced the N75 with latest rev. Ive cleaned the gunk out of the intake. replaced the cam follower and also vacuum pump. replaced most of vacuum lines. inspected the BSH revamp delete kit. replaced the PCV valve.
What i do notice is that when the engine is idle, i can hear a slight hissing sound but unable to pinpoint it. no leaks from valve cover. there are many times it can only boost at or barely 5. but if i were to start the vehicle in the morning, the car can exceed 5 ~ 15ish @ avg 4.5k rpm.
There's also this hesitation when accelerating (it does feel fluid). The car has about 186k miles. compression is at (i might have to use another compression tester) cyl 1~ 3@ 115 and cyl4@ 91. No blue smoke from the tailpipe. car also has an APR stage one ecm upgrade when i purchased the vehicle used earlier this year. someone told be to swap it out with a stock computer to see if the apr upgrade has something to do with it.
I do have an obdeleven that i purchased from Paul at www.Shopdap.com and have used to the best of my ability to check the codes, email them and clear em.
I also have a boost gauge in the center vent but have not traced it where its connecting to. though one thing i can say is that there is this small vacuum hose that is connected to the intake manifold and reduces the hose to a size similar to 1/8 ID (?) and then connected to some see through inline filter and then connected to a barb fitting and then it is fed through the ecm box.
From there Im not sure where it leads to.
I really dont want to give up as I have invested alot of time, sweat (living in vegas), long late nights away from the fam while working in the garage.
Any suggestion(s) is really appreciated as i would love to get this vehicle back to its glorious state.
Cheers,
Jason
Thanks for the videos! P0299 happened today. Slight tear on the inside of the DV. Will be crawling back under my car to check this tomorrow!
Just finished the DV swap on a 2013 Tiguan 2.0T TSI this morning.. Easy Peasy, 30min max. Unplugged the harness on the factory unit, and oil ran out of the connector.. Yep, she's done.
My brother has a 2012 Tiguan and he said he has a code for low boost and I think im going to to try this. Thank you Charles.
Update on this? Did you fix it?
GM 1.4L have the same problem, around the same mileage. Same diagnostic procedure. Good video.
Almost bought a bad K03 turbo with this issue. Thank God for this video
Thanks for the explanation. VW mechanic told me my actuator arm has play in it. 2011 GTI.
Agreed 100%. Great video. 4 motion Tiguan #1. Tiguan #2 then CC #3. Info is spot on. Newer models are way easier to diagnose than the old 1.8t and etc.
Turbo in my 1.8t was definitely bad... It smoked like a freight train whenever it was running, pulled it out, was a total loss. Great video, I used this to make sure a turbo was bad. Turned out to be a failed actuator.
I don't get how you only have 300k subscribers. You've been an amazing UA-cam personality and love watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
My 2010 Audi A4 130kmiles had this exact same problem. At least this helps me to understand what the dealer was talking about. The only symptoms I noticed were a loss of performance.
I am a senior citizen who owned an O7 Audi A4. Car was a nonstop litany of recalls, electric problems, and turbo issues. At 50K, the turbo ceased altogether--a $4,000 repair. You'd think that VW/Audi could get this 2.0 turbo sorted out. They've only been making this engine for 15+ years.
Crazy isn’t it
$4,000 for a turbo? You got ripped off......lmao
@@jaredoldhouser3301 lmaoooo
I think it was 4k with install and other services while they're in there
I have two 2.0T's, one is a 14' w/ 156k and the other is a 13' w/ 144k miles. Both turbos are fine so far...
Bought a brand new apr k04 kit for my octavia EA888.2 straight off apr dealer. I'm facing the same under boost error. Although apr is suggesting me to reset the wastegate mechanism, I've a gut feeling that the issue is happening due to apr providing us a 3.5 Bar sensor wherein k04 run flawlessly on 3 bar tune. Gonna load the 3 bar tune next week to see if it fixes the issue. If not, I'll have to proceed to reset wastegate. Excellent video!
I had an underboost fault lately in my 2017 1.6 tdi vw golf mk7. Checked the codes, even glow plug error jumped in alongside all of the turbo underboost ones. It turned out to be a single small hose that got disconnected. The one just over the turbine. I cut and shortened it and slid it in and suddenly there was no error anymore. I think I will replace most of the hoses, tubings on the engine in the near future, cause even thou they arent that old, more and more problems start to occur related to these. The quality on the modern vehicles is really bad...
to your closing comments, I needed the video. You just helped huge dude. Subscribed.
Following up. I bought the OE rattle clip (06J145220A) for my 2012 GTI TSI CCTA. I am absolutely not a mechanical person but I want to do this myself. I have no jacks, lifts, or fancy tools. Is it possible for me to reach from the top passenger side down with my arm to feel this play, and as well to install the clip? How might you propose installing something like this with the car on the ground. Thanks, Charles!
Bought a 2011 VW Tiguan 4Motion from the dealer. Ended up having a bad turbo charger. Luckily they're replacing the turbo with a VW used turbo, free of charge. Hopefully it works out and the used turbo is good.
Another excellent video. Finally hunted down my mk6 gti undeboost problem. Been watching a lot of your videos. I got to say that they have helped.
I actually watched your videos before i bought a VW and before i even had any plans to buy one.
That’s awesome. Thank you
pospc2 do you mind telling me what was the underboost problem you had? I have a 2010 cc same motor.
Great video , I'll keep this one in my tool box that I carry around between my ears . Thanking
What do you call SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is HumbleMechanic
Sharing what you know with us great video Thank you very much. Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I had that code, but it turns out it was a loose spark plug!!! I felt like such a dummy taking that to the shop
I note the Golf and Jetta aren't mentioned. They have TSi engines too. But if a turbo fails on a 1.8 hell just get a better turbo and upgrade.
There's no such thing as just get a better turbo this drivel is such nonsense without painting the entire picture. What's required to SUPPORT a better turbo upgrade where you can drive on an unrestricted road and top out at insane speeds because of that supporting ECU upgrade and 3" DP upgrade and the Full Catback SS 2.5" or 3" Exhaust upgrade and the Upgraded DV with accompanying Boost gauge and the Transmission upgrade with the Upgraded Clutch Kit and the Suspension upgrade and the Brakes and Brake lines upgrade. After all, you do want to Experience the full potential of having a better turbo just don't misguide people with info like it's a one part upgrade when it involves many other parts and nothing of quality comes cheap!
I have a 2006 2.0TFSI has the same code. Replaced a turbo that I know has done 90,000 miles, car was great with replacement "Ridex Turbo". It lasted about 4 months and the code returned along with a rattle. Figured the turbo was good so changed the DV to a REV G and the car was slightly better but still had P0299. Took it to a mechanic and turns out the wastegate had fallen off and was rattling around inside the turbo. New Borgwarner unit being installed by the shop.
CHECK ALL YOUR SENSORS! I had p299, epc, plus some slight timing chain rattle, low power, low torque response, p130a, p2337, p102f codes that ALL got fixed after replacing my CRANKSHAFT SENSOR! All my other sensors were pretty new except this one and didn't even expect a fix when I replaced and everything was fixed. Before expensive parts I recommend trying the sensors. I apid for a shop diag that didn't even mention sensors and luckily tried it on my own. I've driven it hard even at full throttle multiple times now and no engine lights weird noise so far. on the new sensor. Power and torque all feel great. Wish I'd replaced the sensor 50k miles ago. '14 Jetta 1.8 tsi
Awesome help in diagnosing my turbo problem. This helped me understand what was going on with my 2010 A4. Thanks!
what did it turn out to be
I love awesone mechanics, but they are hard to find. Thank you for this.
7:48 can you give more details? How to monitor actual boost? What to compare it with?
Thanks
It is videos like this that made me shy away from buying a GTI. Thank you for the awesome videos! Subscribed.
+FixTooth thanks for Subbing. Most GTIs have been good.
Plus it's a great excuse for a k04 upgrade. Lol
+HumbleMechanic I have a 2010 mk6 with 80k on it broke down on me today and would say I take care of my car exceptionally well and it just died on me! I love my GTI but I think I'm going to have to switch brands after this!
@alltech1690Honestly I've just never found a brand that didn't have catastrophic failure built into its design. From Cadillac Devilles to CTS-V Wagon, to my old Stratus R/T to my Scat, to my Jetta GLI to my Audi A5, to my Bentley Continental to my Toyota Camry; all of these gobshite vehicles are built to fall apart.
Good call on this tip man. If I ever see this issue a K04 upgrade will be in my near future.
+desertwind16v right on!!! That's what I would do too.
just faced this problem in the shop, thanks for putting out great info!!!
You are very welcome. :)
@@HumbleMechanic so I just replaced my turbo and it came with a diverter valve installed already.. so I figured its was plug-play.. so I cleared codes and took for test drive. now when i Accelerate it Putters... it ran fine on the lift and for a block and a half. I dont have access to vagcom atm. I work at Nissan and I have a snapon scan tool, what could be wrong??
I've read the is20 seat is open during off ignition,unlike its is38 counterpart which is closed upon ignition off
"BAD, TURBO...BAD!!"
*swats it with rolled up newspaper*
Hi Charles like you said I got a Tiguan with the same under boost fault and it was loose on the waste gate pivot I installed the anti rattle clip that you can get at the VW parts department it's meant to reduce the noise from a loose waste gate but I installed it and it did solved the under boost for a while but the other day when the customer came in for a service there was a fault for low boost but at least it's way better with the clip on now what I do is on all CCTA engines I install the clip before the the problem is there I think that it will help prevent the wear of the waste gate there is an other thing to look for is the cut off valve on the turbocharger if the car is a early production it might have an old style valve with a torn diaphragm I've seen it before the other day I got a Jetta with this fault and the hose close from the throttle body for the sound generator for inside the car the spring clip was left off when the dealer replaced the injectors on warranty.
Yup. Got that code two weeks ago. Took it to the dealer and they said the turbos toast. Completely replaced under warranty.
MIDLEADING INFORMATION: You can get the wastegate actuator replaced or send it somewhere where they rebuild turbos (way cheaper than dropping over $700 on a new OEM turbo). Also you forgot to mention to check play on the turbine if it moves in and out. Also spin the turbine and if it feels like it hits something, then it’s bad as well. One last check is really easy, run the car hard (pedal to the medal) for at least a good 30 minutes at night. Then park in a dark area, open the hood and check the catalytic converter. If it’s glowing red hot like if it’s lava then turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust system and intake system. You can also smell the burn every time you do a hard pull. You don’t need a new turbo, you can get it repaired/rebuild. You can even buy a good used one. One last thing, expect the life of your turbo to drop drastically if you run a Stage 1 tune or higher. Hopefully this helps someone
addio12 this guy’s calls himself humble mechanic. And “likes vdub” but all his videos are him talking shit on them and making claims for videos.
I’m not sure that’s accurate. Or has anything to do with humble or not.
Hey I have a 2004 Audi AT 1.8t and last year I upgraded to the K04 turbo with software upgrade, injectors, and high flow CAT. Everything has been running great and still does, except about 6 months ago I noticed my exhaust manifold and turbo housing getting red hot. I mean literally glowing. I used my infrared thermometer and it read 900°. I know turbos are meant to withstand a ton of heat, but what could be the cause of this? Again, no under boost condition. Should I get a high flow exhaust manifold?
@@dillonclark7737 Could be normal or it needs more fuel to cool it down. Prob get a air fuel ratio sensor installed and make sure its in specs.
Dillon Clark, you're probably running too lean. What's your AFR when under load going through the RPM range? And did you get a proper tune after the upgrades to your injectors, turbo, and high flow cat? How about your fuel pump? Is it able to keep up? Finally, how big are your gaps on your plugs? Bigger gap means bigger spark means hotter burn (potentially)
Hello Charles, I´m writing from Ecuador. Thanks for the useful videos you publish. One quick question, would you advice to buy a 2.0 tsi or 1.8 tsi equiped car? here I have a couple of options with very low mileage cars. Both passats 2014 with less than 40 k miles! I own a skoda octavia tdi and I have changed the turbo twice already,,,, thanks so much for your time and answer!!
Very useful diagnostic information - will bank that info for any future turbo charger issues i come across. Cheers! :)
You solved my AUdi TSI problem : P0299 Turbocharger under boost problem . Thanks
Gjergj Konomi what kind of Audi? I am getting a sudden hesitation under heavy accel and just yesterday noticed a whistle sound. It is a 2012 A3. He seems to indicate that if you hear a whistle then it is tubing from the turbo to the throttle body?
There was a moment in the video that HumbleMechanic didn't blink for more than 30 seconds! I think he's a robot and needs to reprogram his ecu. :) Nice videos!
If this is the reason I have p0299 on my mk6 GTI I will you give you a hug bro. So much help from your chanel
99% it’s this
Just got down to the wastegate this morning and sure enough its in there just floppin around not seated 😓😂
OMG "the pin on the waste-gate rattling around" There are a LOT of complaints online about the 2019 Jettas that are having rattling noises once the car is engaged between 25-35 mph! Could this be the issue? If so, would the waste gate need to be replaced/fix? There's even a couple of youtube videos proving this noise is happening every time between those speeds, too!
my 2014 VW GLI turbo blew out on me last week. its a garrett honeywell... looks like the wastegate had a lot of gunk and didnt open properly....
I don't have this code. Only code I is crankshaft and camshaft. But I do have white smoke. Would you have any idea what is could be? Thank you in advanced Love, the videos have helped a lot.
Working on VW and Audi has got to be a goldmine considering they constantly break and have problems. LOL. They are very nice when running well though. Fairly efficient and sporty.
Volkswagen, making diy mechanics out of normal people since 1937
We do a lot of these on 2.0t tfsi a4's and you can distinctly hear the waste gate rattle when shutting the engine off or after simply revving the engine up.. On the Audi side we have extended warranty for the worn out waste gates, in Canada at least
Hi, thank you for your video, could you please tell me how can the problem of west gate arm movement be fixed? Maybe you have some videos or tutorials or links for me? thanks in advance anyway!
VW released an actuator clip
I had cleaned the whole housing of the turbo intake alway to the throttle body and still lacks. I need to tear down the down pipe to see the waist gage for that play you showed. Bcus if its that I'll need a new turbo $1400😬
Thank you. I just bought a 2013 gti with this code. Now i know steps to troubleshoot and the issues to look out for. Charge pipes and intercooler i checked first thing
Happy hunting. :)
@@HumbleMechanic Thanks. I bought the car for less then half of its book value. I got a shop that claims they can fix the wastegate for $250 if it comes to it.
Thanks to your video i will follow all steps before pulling the turbo.
I could really use your help with a Audi 4.0t engine I’m having issues with. I think it’s having the turbo issues that comes with that engine. Runs fine when cold. But after it warms up, it has problems starting and starts misfiring, there is a ton of black build up on time of the turbos themselves. Mabey the oil separator? Or is that build up on the turbos coolant? Leaking coolant into the turbo causing misfire?
Charles, I just saw your video about extra training for techs. I'm a journeyman and started working for VW just over a year ago. Would you consider doing a "Tech Series" going over your experiences as a foreman and things you've found that help you diagnose stuff in the shop, common issues, and weird issues you've run into?
+Duncan MacWilliam that's a good idea. I've talked about a lot of that kind of thing in the past. I have had a show about being a shop Forman on my mind a lately.
Hello guys .I repair only westgate valve on my mk6 GTI using special materials.No need replace turbo only westgate, if you have error code P0299.But you need check also air pressure valve.
Hey Humble Mechanic! Loved the video, super informative. Question... My 2011 coded and it was the check engine light. The code was P0299. The dealership confirmed it was my turbo and recommend replacing it. The price was too high and so I'm holding on for my old VW mechanic. Today the light was on, then I got back in my car and the check engine light went out. Since the diagnosis I've been driving it very gingerly. Any thoughts on why the light's out?
Great video!
I think my wastegate actuator arm is causing an annoying rattle and low rpm 1000-2000rpm low boost. Was told this is considered normal operation of my turbo. I’m having no boost issues or codes coming up.
Is a little bit of play on the actuator arm itself ok?
Now freaking out my turbo is about to blow 😳
Thanks
I got an unusual cause of a p0299. Restricted cat. Not fully clogged but restricted.
I actually replaced the turbo based off what the dealer told me and still same issue. I have a cbfa and took out the o2 sensor on the turbo and hooked up my vaccum/boost gauge that is connected with a couple adaptors and started the car. At idle it was 2 psi reved a bit and went to 8 psi.
Edit: forgot to mention I only had a p0299 code and nothing else.
My 2010 Jetta didn’t have any codes or anything just was making a grinding noise when building boost pulled over turbo was glowing red
This is the video I have been searching for. Thanks
Can't this be fixed with an adjustable actuator rod? Instead of hammering them like some do?
My is38 blew yesterday, for some time under wot the car was making a bit of a whining/pinging noise, car has been stage 2 since the end of January, revision H
I work at a VW dealership just did a turbo on an 11 Tiguan with 36,000 miles, same code found turbo bearing to have completely failled and destroyed the fins. Similar one also failed at 86k 2016 Tiguan.
Would the waste gate clip that's sold by some time or a waste of money?
If I change wastegate for one with adjsutment on it maybe we can close more the flagger and stop the air to escape ??
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0 Quattro, this is the 3rd time in less than a year that I have replaced the DV and I still get the P0299 code. What I think that makes this unique is that when the car is running cool, it's a beast! But as soon as its up to running temperature its pure sluggish. I notice that when the P0299 does come on its usually on some type of incline (me going up hill), or merging on to the highway. I hit the gas and it doesn't do anything. Again when its cold, its a beast. But as soon as it warms up this happens. I have been finding multiple answer for P0299 , MAFS, PCV, Cat, this video. But Im thinking that the temperature issue might help diagnose it further. I read that it could be a leak somewhere because of the metal expanding when its hot. Still not sure. Oh and after an oil change at about 3,000 miles i get a low oil light. and then I add a quart.
Please help if you can. I love the car and it normally drives great, but this acceleration issue is a pain in the ass. thanks again!
similar issue here....i have a 2.0 tfsi leon. I have around 16-17 psi with warm (but not hot!) engine...but it drops to 9-12 psi after a 10-15 mins highway round (constant 3500-4000rpm). otherwise i dont have an error code for this, but after the highway round i hear a whistle voice/sound from the turbo side...so i guess i have to tighten the bolts on the exh. manifold (so there is a boost leak)....but you cant tighten them on cold engine :/
Have you seen a turbo on say a 2010 cc blow a turbo seal an bellow smoke from the exhaust as well as leak from exhaust side? Will not over heat but lots of white smoke an oil in exhaust
I love ur videos,,,I'm having a problem with my 2010 Passat wagon with the 2.0 tsi engine,,,codes are high fuel pressure an lean feul trims at idle only an the intake manifold adjuster code ,,no misfiring under load so I've replaced the PVC valve it was bad obviously ,but sometimes when I start it sitting at idle it almost stalls or does ,the rpms will go from 900 to 1500 back an forth,unless I have the AC on then it idles normal at 900 an runs smoothly,,but sometimes putting it in drive or reverse it'll stall out on me ,any ideas on what else I should be checking I've cleaned my mass air, replaced plugs an filter checked for leaks an it kinda sounds like there's a leak but t I'm not getting any boost codes only high feul pressure an lean at idle only an manifold adjuster code but,the arm on the adjuster is still connected an doesn't seem to be leaking I'm just beating my head against the wall tryn to fix this issue,I'm about to replacing the O2 sensors the wastegate control valve the boost recirculate valve an the masairflow an I have an intake manifold adjuster repair kit coming,like I said sometimes when I start the car usually after driving I park it an when I start it again it'll run ruff an the engine light blinks at idle ,,it never blinks when driving no matter how hard I get on it ,it's just weird ,,I have some automotive knowledge so I'm not completely Dum to engines I've rebuilt a few ,an done many head gaskets,,but I'm not familiar with stock turbo engines ,I love ur videos an that's why I replaced the PVC valve Wich was bad ,an the car is driving way better but I'm still having this issue,,any idea or suggestions would help ,,,I Know it's hard to diagnose my issue without seeing it for urself ,but I'm hoping u can give some insight into what could be going on ,,an like I said it (mostly) does the ruff idle after I have drove the car an parked it for little bit an start it again ,,,also I fell alotta boost lag takes a second to really build up boost ,I don't have a boost gauge yet but I will be installing it done so I can see what the pressure says but again I'm not getting any codes for boost Tru the obd ,only manifold adjuster,lean at idle ,an high fuel pressure,even with new pcv valve 😥 thanks again if your reading this
I hav also detected on Pasat and A4 a rattle from actuator when decel but you’re way is the 100% way for sure
Please help with the Turbocharger Cooling Pipe how can i replace it? is there any video?
hey Charles, couldn't you just purchase an aftermarket waste gate acutator with a threaded rod and adjust the preload tension rather than the entire turbo? it seems that the wastegate flapper would still seal, just that the original wastegate has worn quite a bit causing it to lose its preload tension on the flapper when shut.
as far as i know, you dont need to buy an entire new one. just take it to a turborepair company, so they can fix it for a lower price. (and they will check the other parts -vanes,axis,etc- of it as well).
Hi, i can feel there's no play in the rod from the actuator at all. But there's still a chance that the wastegate flapper is loose? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Love your videos, very helpful. I've got an 06 A3 with the low boost code. OBDeleven live data shows it's making zero boost. No noticable play on the wastegate arm at all. No obvious big boost leaks. Car has the updated DV. Any ideas aside from a bad turbo?
My EA211 1.4tsi was down last month also this problem, welding & fixed cost 50 dollars
what were the symptoms of a failing n75? And did you diy, if so can you tell me the steps? The issue im having is when building boost around 2500-3000 rpm is sluggish but after 3000 it builds boost fine. I've replace the diverter valve and no change, also looked at the wastegate actuator rod and wastegate flap rod there is no play at all. So i might be thinking the n75 has failed and there might be a boost leak. So if you have any troubleshooting advice that would be awesome! Thanks.
What to look for if you look at live data with OBD?
I just got this code and I really hope it's a diverter value and not a bad Turbo.
Me too
@@HumbleMechanic Yo ,it was the diverter valve, put in a gfb T9351 !
This thing make the car so playful!
My 2013 Tiguan has 150k miles on it. The turbo underboost fault appeared. It appears there are two common solutions to this code. One is the wastegate fix in your video and the other is a turbocharger diverter valve replacement. The diverter valve replacement looks pretty straight forward.
How do we open up and access the turbo body to replace the gate? Do I need to remove the entire turbo system from the car?
Hey Charles, whats the procedure to install on a 4motion tiguan. I noticed the installation will be different than the fwds I have seen on youtube. Thanks
i am in the process of adapting the IS38 to the VW GLI
i know its two years later but did you end up doing it? Im still waiting for ECS Tuning to release the turbo kit for the EA888.3 GLI
@@shaneinfinity4597 yes I did, it worked out great, the only problem was I needed to change all fittings and pipes because the turbo pointed the other way.
@@shaneinfinity4597 sadly i had to sell my GLI :(
thats awesome and unfortunate at the same time :( im going to wait till the end of summer to see where CTS is with the kit. If they take longer then that or overprice the kit (it'll be the only bolt on option in existence) then Ill will attempt the IS38 swap
@@shaneinfinity4597 awesome you have my support
I have a question if anyone can answer it, the "whistling" sound that he's talking about does it sound like a clean whistle or not? Mine makes what I would describe as rustling leaves noise. Is that something else I need to look into?
I'm not a mechanic but did enjoy this? I just a few months ago purchased a 2017 X1 (F49). It's only the 2nd car I've owned with a turbo. I'm worried since my 1st one a Saab 95 the turbo started leaking oil later years. So I'm still gun shy about turbo's. This car has 51K on it. So I know regular proper oil changes are key? BMW says 10K which I think is insane I always stick to 6K max with top rated synthetic oil. Now BMW says 0-20 oil. I've heard they did that more for MPG but not sure? Was told maybe 5-30 would be better for the engine but worried about the turbo too. What do you think? I'm in Georgia so the cold won't be an issue much but once the engine warms up that's my concern. Liquid Molly got 5-30 and 5-40 BMW certified they say for me car they say the 5-30 now and 5-40 when I get higher miles like over 75K.
Hello the V465 air pressure actuator is stuck. I am told I need to replace the entire turbo charger. is that true. 2.0t CPLA engine 2013 beetle R.
Great video! I have this issue on my Skoda 18.TSI, year 2014 and I'm wondering should I replace turbocharger with the exact same model or to look for upgrades as dealer is claiming that this problem is not a warranty issue?
HI, HUMBLE, i have a 2006 passat 2.0 turbo engine and would like to know the measurement specifications for camshaft lobe, the one drives the cam follower and high pressure pump, i would love to hear if you can help me with that info. thanks a lot and keep going w great technical info videos.
I have 25k miles on my 2014 A4 Quattro and I've been having this code come up. I swapped the DV, cleared the CEL and the code remains. Bad turbo?
I have a grinding sound when turning left on my 15 passat or when I’m on a sideways incline when I put the car in gear. Could this be the compressor wheel hitting the housing or waste gate rattle? Also noticed oil around the outside of the lowest discharge fitting. No codes. Any help appreciated, really enjoy your videos.
Hi Charles, do you have a video explaining how to replace a turbocharger at tsi engine??
Very good video Charles! Thank you. Good info! Even though I do not have a turbo car its nice to know.
Do you recommend getting an Audi A4 non turbo 2007 model or earlier?
I'm having a problem of clearing my codes on my 2013 passat 2.5.manual. It has 55k miles, I change my oil and spark plugs. I tried to reset the service reset, but not doing it right. I'm a home mechanic that can do certain projects. I have a scran tool that can't clear codes. The scanner shows no problems, but can't clear the reset on the vechile. Please help, because of the procedures on UA-cam are vague. It's a strip down passat without steering wheel functions that clear codes. A basic passat, please help me. Of course because I have a VW, always watch your videos. Your advise is better than going to a VW service center. I hope you can help me out.
Nice vid got a car in my bay overnight gonna do this tomorrow morning thanks 👍👍