Silicine the gap between the tub and cement board. Remove the stickers from the cement board. Also back butter the entire tile don't live the edges empty. Angle grinder to cut the toilet flange hole. Leveling clips to make that floor perfectly flat
We're on the same page brother, good work. There isn't a need for all the fancy bs when you get your subfloor on point, BUTTER your tile and get that bond.
I noticed you installed tiles above the flange and according to others flange should be at least 1/4" above tiles so water won't leak, did you get any leaks from this installation? Thank you for sharing.
I hired a local family owned tile company to do my bath floor, a turn key job using their man, their tile etc.. When finished they had two boxes of tile left over. They advised they can not take the tile back being is was a special order. The tile with tax is valued at $235.00. Is this a common practice being they did the measuring and ordering? Trust but verify = wanting a second opinion
I guess it would depend on the tile shop. That is a lot of money to have just sitting there. I feel ya on that. Normally when I figure a tile job, it figure an extra .05%. Also if they couldn’t take the tile back as a return and potential refund, they should have let you know that on the front end in my opinion. Not sure if this helps or not!
@@2MinuteHowTo Thanks for the reply, it was helpful. I was home during the install, the tile guy did a super job working all day only stopping 30 min for lunch. BTW I've decided to give the tile to a friend.
Best bet is mortar to prevent cracking and wgat not but an all purpose construction adhesive would work but I wouldn’t do it in my home. Maybe on a rental home but for the extra few minutes I’d mix mortar or even use the pre mixed mortar before any other adhesive
That’s called wonderboard. It’s a under layer designed for tile installations. You always need that if your laying new tile. There’s different brands and different kinds of under layers though. You can also use ditra. The wonder board is to prevent cracking of the tiles and to stop water moisture as well that might get under the tile. I wouldn’t recommend ever installing new tile without some type of under layer. It’s easy to install just measure and cut the sizes you need and they say your supposed “glue and screw” as they say but I didn’t glue. Really don’t need to though. Just a lot of screws in even rows was fine for me. The glue destroys the subfloor when the next guy goes to pull it up to put new tile down. The wonder board has its own style screws as well. You can get it all at Home Depot.
It's because most tiles when they are cooked have a slight bend to them, and the middle part is the highest, whereas the 33% offset would be not at the highest point. This would mean less potential for "lippage".
Eliot Construction ..... it's not a drain; it's the toilet soil pipe. It's underneath the toilet, the toilet sits right on top of it, so this cut won't be seen.
This is my kind of video. No fluff and straight to the point with demonstration. Subbed!
Silicine the gap between the tub and cement board. Remove the stickers from the cement board. Also back butter the entire tile don't live the edges empty. Angle grinder to cut the toilet flange hole. Leveling clips to make that floor perfectly flat
Damn why don’t you just make the video pro.
@@JonnyG905 he’s too busy laying tiles
Brian, quit being a Brian.
These are good tips and are gonna help me for when I eventually replace my bathroom flooring
Doing tiling, using ditra instead of hardie backer.
Do I leave a 1/4 inch gap between carpet and tile?
completely back butter your tiles, but even more important, make sure all of your trowel lines are running in the same direction.
You didnt put reguard or any type of waterproofing membrane down ?
No BS. No gimmicks. Nice job.
Thank you!
I loved this! It made me want some buttered bread! This man did a great job! Thumbs up.
Do you have a picture of the final floor done - it looks like it'll be gorgeous!
If you only have a wet saw, go to harbor freight and get a side grinder to cut that hole! Video was pretty on point.
Thanks for the simplicity of your explanation... I think we are ready to install
Advice for tiling on top of kitchen floor which is concrete. Can you Mortar straight on top of concrete?
I loved all your ideas! Have a great weekend!
What about for 24x24 porcelain tiles. What size spacers do I use and what type of mortar is best.
We're on the same page brother, good work. There isn't a need for all the fancy bs when you get your subfloor on point, BUTTER your tile and get that bond.
I would like to have a heated floor with this.
Is it possible?
Concise to the point. Excellent video thanks
Shared! We're installing the same tile in similar small bath.
Is that called backer board? The gray subfloor thing?
I have a lot of experience in tiles. Can I get to know you?
What kind of thinset was used?
Where did you get that saw at?
wow simple. Im going to do mine. What type of thinset do you recommend for concrete?
I like to used fortified thin set.
@@2MinuteHowTo thx
Great video. Thanks 😊
How do you know it’s leveled ? I didn’t see you checking for that
whats that grey paper called?
I noticed you installed tiles above the flange and according to others flange should be at least 1/4" above tiles so water won't leak, did you get any leaks from this installation? Thank you for sharing.
I'm guessing they put an extender in after, always best to know the height of the tile before determining the extender depth needed.
Or use two wax rings on the toilet. I do this on any toilet set
@@brianearle2874 and that's why you have completely shot subfloor around your toilet
But you didn't show the Masonite board you put down on the floor
This guy is great
Great video! I would love to see more of your tiling work
Great tole video in a bathroom
are those tiles threw body porcelain,,cheers
Thanks man for sharing 🙏...
Do you recommend putting the tub in first or putting porcelain tile under?
Definitely install the tub first!
Excellent video
Do you think this porcelain tile would hold up well in a hotel lobby and breakfast area with heavy traffic?
Yes I do
Perfect, I’m getting it installed right now. It looks awesome!
Thank you.
Would be nice to have a tool that cuts circles in the tile.
Ok I need to workout... 😭 everytime he said butter 🧈 I was like ummmm buuuttterr in my Homer Simpson's voice lol 😭🤣
🤣🤣🤣
Lmao silly
Thanks !
good idea to learning from you ?
I literally just cut a clean circle with a wet saw today you should clean that edge up bud don't half ass cause the toilet hides it
the stagger for the same tiles dont allow more than 33% box specs. so 50% like you did wouldnt work for everyone
Thanks
OG layer right here
And to cut the tiles does the cutter require water.
If you use a dry cutter like a mini grinder with a diamond wheel no it doesn’t. Thank you for watching!
@@2MinuteHowTo do it 6 56 it 5655556655555555565565555555556
This is how not do it video ?
Is it white cement or glue???
It’s white fortified thin set.
Vlw amigo
Can I use dry cutter
You sure can, I have a couple more videos of using a dry cutter. Thank you for watching!
@@2MinuteHowTo ok thanks your welcome
Bricklayers must love wall hung toilets, no need to make all those complicated cuts.
What would you do differently?
Nice video
Visit my channal and sub
What happened to the mixing
Very good ~
🙏🙏
If you’re reading this don’t lay tile like this.
Why and what is a better way?
I hired a local family owned tile company to do my bath floor, a turn key job using their man, their tile etc.. When finished they had two boxes of tile left over. They advised they can not take the tile back being is was a special order. The tile with tax is valued at $235.00. Is this a common practice being they did the measuring and ordering? Trust but verify = wanting a second opinion
I guess it would depend on the tile shop. That is a lot of money to have just sitting there. I feel ya on that. Normally when I figure a tile job, it figure an extra .05%. Also if they couldn’t take the tile back as a return and potential refund, they should have let you know that on the front end in my opinion. Not sure if this helps or not!
@@2MinuteHowTo Thanks for the reply, it was helpful. I was home during the install, the tile guy did a super job working all day only stopping 30 min for lunch. BTW I've decided to give the tile to a friend.
What kind of mortar do you use for porcelain tile? And what kind of grout? Thanks
Do they have an alternative to mortar for holding down the tites??
John Osne sure use some all purpose caulking, roofing cement works too!
Best bet is mortar to prevent cracking and wgat not but an all purpose construction adhesive would work but I wouldn’t do it in my home. Maybe on a rental home but for the extra few minutes I’d mix mortar or even use the pre mixed mortar before any other adhesive
What's that layer you laid the tile on above the subfloor?
That’s called wonderboard. It’s a under layer designed for tile installations. You always need that if your laying new tile. There’s different brands and different kinds of under layers though. You can also use ditra. The wonder board is to prevent cracking of the tiles and to stop water moisture as well that might get under the tile.
I wouldn’t recommend ever installing new tile without some type of under layer. It’s easy to install just measure and cut the sizes you need and they say your supposed “glue and screw” as they say but I didn’t glue. Really don’t need to though. Just a lot of screws in even rows was fine for me. The glue destroys the subfloor when the next guy goes to pull it up to put new tile down. The wonder board has its own style screws as well. You can get it all at Home Depot.
Pretty sure the tile manufacture recommends the tile pattern be offset at a maximum 33% to the joint of the tiles above and below. This looks lie 50%.
Your one of those
You’re**
Sometimes you just have to do things the way the client wants. Fifty or 33% isn’t gonna matter either way.
@@2MinuteHowTo As long as it's on a level plane it should be all good. That 33%, I believe, smooths the rough patches, if any.
👍
I wonder why on the box it says 50% offset not recommended?
No idea
Lippage.
It’s because 12 x 24 is considered a large format tile, with these you shouldn’t have more than a 33% offset, a 50% offset is for smaller tiles.
It's because most tiles when they are cooked have a slight bend to them, and the middle part is the highest, whereas the 33% offset would be not at the highest point. This would mean less potential for "lippage".
@@Chris11249 100%. You don't want the lowest part of one tile lining up with the highest part of the tile adjacent to it.
Why does nobody ever show the dang whole floor at the end when they're done!! Lol damn it
Did you really let that drain tile like that ???!
hello sir I AM A TILE FIXER visit my channal and subscribe
Eliot Construction ..... it's not a drain; it's the toilet soil pipe. It's underneath the toilet, the toilet sits right on top of it, so this cut won't be seen.
Good
Visit my channal and sub
He sounds like micheal scott
That’s what she said.
Wrong size trowel, should be 1/2" trowel. Large format tiles should be back buttered for the best adhesion.
True that, horrible back butter method too, maybe covered 75% of the tile sloppily
That WC flange is loowwwwww
😘
Not even center just lay it
This does not look simple and easy!
hello sir I AM A TILE FIXER visit my channal and subscribe
No ligne no square 3/16 joint dont tell me you are pro no tile cutter no grinder you need someone to show you how to really work
I realy like his harbor fright crap saw 🤮
It’s only a 2 minute video. He doesn’t have time to show EVERY step and tool used.
Tim Gawry so he should stay out of utube
@@timgawry7595 visit my channal and sub
😂😂😂😂😂🍺
Wow what a ugly cut around toilet
What a disaster
@gsxrkz why?