Hi George, I am very much satisfied the way you actually did varnishing without missing out on any details. It is going to be very helpful as I am going to varnish my 3 paintings. I will keep in mind to varnish on my self keep painting before I apply on these portraits that I am going to gift my sisters. Thanks a lot.
I studied under a Certified Master's Copiest at the National Gallery of Art and was instructed to use the Liquin that I used in my paint to seal the paintings. This was for all surfaces - canvas, wood, etc.
Hi George, I hope you are well. Thank you for the videos so far, they have been very helpful. My question - Can we expect anymore videos soon? Very much looking forward to more. Thank.
Thank you for the tutorial! What type of brush did you use in this video. I read one of your comments below that you are now using a different varnish than winsor newton. What type of varnish are you using now? Thanks
good video. my question is: I have some paintings that I sprayed the Winsor & Newton Retouch Varnish. Do I have to remove the retouch varnish so I can then use a permanent Gloss Varnish?
hey George, amazing work, maybe you can help me..I painted a picture using oils and aibrushed the background with acrylics..do you think the varnish will mess up the airbrush? thanks!
I recently varnished a painting using the Windsor and Newton glossy varnish, a Soft bristle brush was used, and I thought the varnish would self level, however you can still clearly see the brush marks which was so disappointing!
I paint very large canvases, very fine layers (up to 8) of glazes and I have always used a spray varnish but had a big issue with a couple of cans last winter so I am thinking about using a brush on varnish. How would I attempt a very large canvas 1.20 x 1.20 metres? should I use the same method you have above or do you think I should return to a spray varnish? I think possibly my can was too cold last winter and it came out in small globlets on a very expensive painting I had already sold :( Any advice appreciated :)
The mineral spirits is not taking off the "oil" at all, in actuality, the linseed oil of the paint film is what creates the impermeable nature of the surface which the spirits or the varnish cannot pernitrate, and because the surface tension of the too weak the varnish will pull away from the area. By gently spreading spirits over the area, you are doing two things, micro etching the oil film with solvent, and by wiping, it scratches or roughs up the areas and allows the spirits or varnish to take a foothold directly to the surface of the paint film.
Hey thankyou its so helpful.Can you please tell i did it on my completely dried painting but when i added its started mixing with the colors what could be the reason
Good suggestion to practice on some less important or test canvases! It does take practice whether it is it put on with a brush or is aerosol. (Keep room ventilated.)
Thanks for this tutorial! Just to make sure I understood everything correctly - You use Winsor & Newton Gloss Varnish, three coats. All in the same day, or three separate days? You said it dries in about an hour, right? So is it ready for the next layer in an hour or two? And you use progressively less mineral spirits in each layer. Any tips about the brush? I don't think I have any brush that big. Would a simple craft brush work well, or does it have to be high quality so that no loose hairs get in it? By the way that is an amazing painting of grapes. Depicts the light so wonderfully.
I did all 3 layers in the same day with a few hours to dry between layers. HOWEVER, drying time can vary depending on temperature and humidity as well as how much the varnish is diluted. As long as it is not at all tacky to the touch, it should be dry enough. Yes, less spirits each time. Just use any quality brush with fine bristles and the wider the brush the better. The higher the quality of the brush=the less likelihood of bristles ending up in the varnish...Also, ideally in the brush you want a higher quantity of fine bristles as opposed to course ridged bristles(i keep a razor blade nearby just in case) I've since started using a different varnish that is actually much easier to apply and I'm able to apply it without having to wait several months. In my opinion though, the method I use in this video gets better results and the varnish is more resilient with a better finish. In the real world though...I can't wait around several months as I almost always have to varnish within a week and get the painting to the gallery. p.s. keep in mind all of this is based on my direct experience and practice...I do not claim to be a varnish expert or scholar :)
Thanks for the information! I think I need to buy a brush if I use the brush-on method because I don't think I own a brush like that. All of mine are smaller or don't have very fine bristles/are very coarse. I appreciate the detailed descriptions. I've never varnished before and am attempting to do a bit of research.
I've got oil paintings that have been hanging round unvarnished for years but now I've decided that I'd like to varnish them e.g. to correct uneven sheen. How would you clean such prior to varnishing. - my thoughts dusting, lightly wash with dilute shower-gel/detergent (the colourless, odourless sort used for delicate skin or infants). I note you used a solvent (mineral spirit - is the the same as white spirit as used by decorators) - would Damsol be OK?
sorry ,i don't have a lot of information about the material , what is the mineral spirits that you applied first ? is it a special kind of thinner ? or we can use any kind of thinner instead?
I recently varnished one of my paintings. Unfortunately I didn't watch this video first. I used a spray Varnish and now i have noticeable ridges in my picture.My question is ... Is it safe to sand this down with a fine grit sanding paper then re varnish it??By the way I love your videos, you have been extremely helpful to me.
I applied Daler-Rowney acrylic gloss to a black and white painting I did ... and it smeared everything it touched into grey. It was an absolute nightmare. What happened?
hello, first of all I congratulate you on your excellent work. I am a fine artist, and I've been digging into the old techniques of the old masters, but I have a huge doubt: I am Spanish speaker and I have doubts as to which is the mineral spirits, not sure if it's something like turpentine pine or alcohol. I would be very grateful for your response
Paint thinner or turpentine applied with a microfibre or lint free cotton rag, carefully over the ridge areas only, should remove the varnish overtones. Do not dab for too long and do it carefully with light sweeping strokes. Watch the result and adjust your pressure. Definitely better than sanding.
Dear sir after using retouchinvarnish and waited to dry for more than 3 weeks ,today I aplied a spry varnish on my canvas ,For no apparent reason random spots on the painting refuse to take the varnish, Kind of like mixing oil and water. I tooked a clean brush and waped the varnish , what I have now is a vanvas with glossy in some where and maat in another, just like there is no varnish in the lights points ,but in on another you can see a glossy shiny sefuce, sir give me an advice I just have 11 day to give it to its owner, what should I do to fix this, thank you anyway
You said around 2:40 that if you use a lot of white it will bead up. Is that cus most white paints use safflower or sunflower oil as a binder instead of linseed (usually)?
Thanks for the perfect video I just have one question, i dont have mineral spirits, can i just use varnish from the first? Or the mineral spirits is important?
I am giving some input as I am also a painting artist and what I understood here is the mineral spirit is to dilute the varnish for the initial 1st and 2nd coat. And on the final coat you would use just the varnish. Using little bit of mineral spirit in the initial layer is to let the varnish layer be thin, dries easily and it gives it little flexibility to spread evenly. So buying mineral spirit would be better option for good result in varnishing your art work. Thanks.
Only one day after you've applied the varnish it can be framed?. I am always extremely insecure and give it months before I frame my works, so I love the idea that I can frame them in such a short period of time.
it's probably best to wait a few days rather than framing the following day....it can also depend on temperature and humidity etc... it is very hot and dry in my sunroom so things tend to dry quickly in there :-)
I gather this is an oil painting but i had a problem with my gloss medium on an acrylic yesterday. The gloss dried quickly as I applied and making streaks and if i went over it it didnt settle down. . I let dry overnight and now I am nervous about the 2nd coat cross the other way wont cover the streaks. This has never happened before. Can i lightly sand it and then add the 2nd coat? This is on a large acrylic. Thanks K
kathleen stoll Hi, I suggest you ask Michele Theberge, look her up on UA-cam. She specializes in acrylics, especially Liquidtex products. But it does not matter if you don't use Liquidtex, she's a wealth of information and answers all questions. I know this question was 5 months ago, but I figured I send you her way.
Hi, I need some help to fix my painting. My ART teacher told me to varnish my painting by mixing turpentine with linseed oil, I'm not sure if I mixed it with incorrect ratios, but I have oil droplets on the paintings, how can I fix this.
turpentine and linseed oil mixture is not the same as varnishing. it will give the painting a temporary shine which will eventually soak in. varnish will give the shine but also acts as a protective and permanent coating. I personally wouldn't mix turpentine with linseed oil for that purpose as straight linseed oil works fine applied with a sponge. oil droplets are by other issues...in the video you'll see me mention cleaning the painting with mineral spirits once or several times before applying varnish to avoid the beading up of varnish which would be the same for linseed oil...make sure you understand the purpose of varnishing and maybe discuss it with your teacher....cheers!
@@georgeayers Good explanation, George. Some say, not to use OMS but use fine quality turpentine. Such contradictory information from various expert videos makes us confused. sometimes different words used for the same ingredients confusing budding artists!
Gauri Sontakke it's basically a way of finishing the paint that makes it last longer and either makes it shiny or matte. think of it as putting a case on your phone.
Protection for the painting. Use a varnish that is not the same medium/binder as your painting. This will allow it to be repaired if anything was to happen to it; this is especially true when using polymer-based varnishes on acrylic paint.
This is very surprising. Usually sprays do not cause ridges. when using spray varnish you must keep the painting flat, not on the easel/ vertical as the cans usually mention! Varnish runs and can cause ridges. Do not sand. Try this, re spray with Kammar varnish using the technique i said above. Give it three coats, with at least 3 hrs dry time between 1st & 2nd and overnight dry time(12-16hrs) between 2nd & 3rd. Tim Gagnon Kammar varnish, watch his video.
turpentine should work just fine or any paint thinner that will work with permanent varnish...it may be a good idea to make sure whatever you use works well with the varnish...mineral spirits is just a paint thinner and most major art supply companies (Gamblin, WIndsor Newton) probably have a suitable product or replacement depending on your local laws...cheers!
officially I don't know....having said that I have read that sanding will be fine as long as you are using a very fine grit...also, logically I think it should be fine with 400 grit or above but PLEASE ask around...I have no direct experience doing that so I don't want to give bad advice
Ihave a painting that i let dry for months and it still smears the acrylic not all the colours smear mainly the black , im using winsor newton galaria gloss varnish and the painting is flat no chunks of paint or texture . thanks for replying
This video should be x-rated as there is a titty in the background towards the end of the video. Great video by the way. I will be using your method for sure. I previously used PVA sealer and primer watered down and it works as well and probably cheaper too. Although it probably won't look as nice as varnish. What sort of varnish do you use?
I appreciate realism for the technique and skill involved. But I’ve never understood why an artist would choose to invest that energy and time into ordinary images. They seem to omit any uniqueness in their art. It seems a waste of time. It is absent of any unique imagination.
Joe Mug The artist’s vision/meaning can be expressed in ordinary objects, look up Dutch vanitas art. Like how a story can be told with the simplest, most ordain words, so an a painting,
That Is the art in my opinion, abstract is about abstracting the form. This I would call Photorealism, at the core it's about taking it as far as you can. I do prefer the realism from the 1800 myself
Thank you so much for this lesson. Very Clear instruction.👍👍👍
Thank you, great tip with the mineral spirits, the varnish goes on so much easier. In the past I've always put on only one coat of varnish
Hi George, I am very much satisfied the way you actually did varnishing without missing out on any details. It is going to be very helpful as I am going to varnish my 3 paintings. I will keep in mind to varnish on my self keep painting before I apply on these portraits that I am going to gift my sisters. Thanks a lot.
Thank you so much for this fabulous video and your art work is stunning😍👍🏻
Thanks for the clear instruction. I'm about to try it myself (on a scrap painting). Beautiful grapes, too- good luck with your show. Thanks again.
The painting is stunning!
Finally a good video on how to varnish a painting! Thank you!!!
That is a beautiful painting.
Thank you very much George, wonderful video!!!!
Thanks a lot mr It was so useful to me to varnish my paint
So good!!!
Good, Careful work, thanks for the information
I studied under a Certified Master's Copiest at the National Gallery of Art and was instructed to use the Liquin that I used in my paint to seal the paintings. This was for all surfaces - canvas, wood, etc.
This was a perfect video thank you.
Fantastic! Thank you!
Hi George, I hope you are well. Thank you for the videos so far, they have been very helpful. My question - Can we expect anymore videos soon? Very much looking forward to more. Thank.
Very nice cool tutorial video....Thank you....
Thank you for the tutorial! What type of brush did you use in this video. I read one of your comments below that you are now using a different varnish than winsor newton. What type of varnish are you using now? Thanks
good video. my question is: I have some paintings that I sprayed the Winsor & Newton Retouch Varnish. Do I have to remove the retouch varnish so I can then use a permanent Gloss Varnish?
How long to wait for applying Varnish to an oil painting when winsor and newton active drying medium used?
what is the complete name of that spirit thing you applied at the painting at the very first???
Hi George...! thank you so much for sharing.. I'm Italian and want to buy
Gamblin Gamvar. Do you think it's the best?
sir, can I use varnish on poster colour painting???
We can fanidh an acrylic painting?
hey George, amazing work, maybe you can help me..I painted a picture using oils and aibrushed the background with acrylics..do you think the varnish will mess up the airbrush? thanks!
I recently varnished a painting using the Windsor and Newton glossy varnish, a Soft bristle brush was used, and I thought the varnish would self level, however you can still clearly see the brush marks which was so disappointing!
I paint very large canvases, very fine layers (up to 8) of glazes and I have always used a spray varnish but had a big issue with a couple of cans last winter so I am thinking about using a brush on varnish. How would I attempt a very large canvas 1.20 x 1.20 metres? should I use the same method you have above or do you think I should return to a spray varnish? I think possibly my can was too cold last winter and it came out in small globlets on a very expensive painting I had already sold :(
Any advice appreciated :)
Thank you!
this is very helpful
can i know which varnish i need to apply for poster colours or watercolour paintings????
The mineral spirits is not taking off the "oil" at all, in actuality, the linseed oil of the paint film is what creates the impermeable nature of the surface which the spirits or the varnish cannot pernitrate, and because the surface tension of the too weak the varnish will pull away from the area. By gently spreading spirits over the area, you are doing two things, micro etching the oil film with solvent, and by wiping, it scratches or roughs up the areas and allows the spirits or varnish to take a foothold directly to the surface of the paint film.
yes, it does take some practice...I tried to touch on some of the most important points for a successful finish
What's better a spray or cream? Also do upu have in mind the best varnish seal?
I varnished with W&N oil painting and it beading up of varnish , can anyone help what to do , can I use spray varnish on top of it ?
it is Windsor Newton glossy artist varnish available at most art supply stores or Hobby Lobby, Michaels etc.
Hey thankyou its so helpful.Can you please tell i did it on my completely dried painting but when i added its started mixing with the colors what could be the reason
Would you be willing to say what brand the brush you used was? Is it synthetic? Have you ever used Gamal varnish?
Hello, why the varnish is so watery? Do you add water?
On still lifes as your's do people normally varnish in high gloss?
Good suggestion to practice on some less important or test canvases! It does take practice whether it is it put on with a brush or is aerosol. (Keep room ventilated.)
Can we use brush instead of that sponge
Thanks for a great tutorial. My question is, how long after you finish the painting it will be ready for varnish. Ann
I think after it dries completely
Thanx for sharing. Like your work varnishing...can you tell what material is besides the varnish , in the other container ?
Thanks for this tutorial! Just to make sure I understood everything correctly - You use Winsor & Newton Gloss Varnish, three coats. All in the same day, or three separate days? You said it dries in about an hour, right? So is it ready for the next layer in an hour or two? And you use progressively less mineral spirits in each layer. Any tips about the brush? I don't think I have any brush that big. Would a simple craft brush work well, or does it have to be high quality so that no loose hairs get in it? By the way that is an amazing painting of grapes. Depicts the light so wonderfully.
I did all 3 layers in the same day with a few hours to dry between layers. HOWEVER, drying time can vary depending on temperature and humidity as well as how much the varnish is diluted. As long as it is not at all tacky to the touch, it should be dry enough. Yes, less spirits each time. Just use any quality brush with fine bristles and the wider the brush the better. The higher the quality of the brush=the less likelihood of bristles ending up in the varnish...Also, ideally in the brush you want a higher quantity of fine bristles as opposed to course ridged bristles(i keep a razor blade nearby just in case) I've since started using a different varnish that is actually much easier to apply and I'm able to apply it without having to wait several months. In my opinion though, the method I use in this video gets better results and the varnish is more resilient with a better finish. In the real world though...I can't wait around several months as I almost always have to varnish within a week and get the painting to the gallery.
p.s. keep in mind all of this is based on my direct experience and practice...I do not claim to be a varnish expert or scholar :)
Thanks for the information! I think I need to buy a brush if I use the brush-on method because I don't think I own a brush like that. All of mine are smaller or don't have very fine bristles/are very coarse. I appreciate the detailed descriptions. I've never varnished before and am attempting to do a bit of research.
I've got oil paintings that have been hanging round unvarnished for years but now I've decided that I'd like to varnish them e.g. to correct uneven sheen. How would you clean such prior to varnishing. - my thoughts dusting, lightly wash with dilute shower-gel/detergent (the colourless, odourless sort used for delicate skin or infants). I note you used a solvent (mineral spirit - is the the same as white spirit as used by decorators) - would Damsol be OK?
sorry ,i don't have a lot of information about the material , what is the mineral spirits that you applied first ? is it a special kind of thinner ? or we can use any kind of thinner instead?
I recently varnished one of my paintings. Unfortunately I didn't watch this video first. I used a spray Varnish and now i have noticeable ridges in my picture.My question is ... Is it safe to sand this down with a fine grit sanding paper then re varnish it??By the way I love your videos, you have been extremely helpful to me.
Just curious, why not use a spray varnish?
I applied Daler-Rowney acrylic gloss to a black and white painting I did ... and it smeared everything it touched into grey. It was an absolute nightmare. What happened?
Nice work. What kind of brush is that?
this varnish is for oil ?
what is your brand ?
Windsor and Newton gloss varnish
hello, first of all I congratulate you on your excellent work.
I am a fine artist, and I've been digging into the old techniques of the old masters, but I have a huge doubt: I am Spanish speaker and I have doubts as to which is the mineral spirits, not sure if it's something like turpentine pine or alcohol.
I would be very grateful for your response
Paint thinner or turpentine applied with a microfibre or lint free cotton rag, carefully over the ridge areas only, should remove the varnish overtones. Do not dab for too long and do it carefully with light sweeping strokes. Watch the result and adjust your pressure. Definitely better than sanding.
Dear sir after using retouchinvarnish and waited to dry for more than 3 weeks ,today I aplied a spry varnish on my canvas ,For no apparent reason random spots on the painting refuse to take the varnish, Kind of like mixing oil and water. I tooked a clean brush and waped the varnish , what I have now is a vanvas with glossy in some where and maat in another, just like there is no varnish in the lights points ,but in on another you can see a glossy shiny sefuce, sir give me an advice I just have 11 day to give it to its owner, what should I do to fix this, thank you anyway
You said around 2:40 that if you use a lot of white it will bead up. Is that cus most white paints use safflower or sunflower oil as a binder instead of linseed (usually)?
not sure why, but it is common..it's easily overcome with a bit of preparation and knowledge and of course practice! cheers!
What varnish are you using?
BudderCreep3r doesn’t matter unless it’s a paint freindly shiner
Thanks for the perfect video
I just have one question, i dont have mineral spirits, can i just use varnish from the first? Or the mineral spirits is important?
I am giving some input as I am also a painting artist and what I understood here is the mineral spirit is to dilute the varnish for the initial 1st and 2nd coat. And on the final coat you would use just the varnish. Using little bit of mineral spirit in the initial layer is to let the varnish layer be thin, dries easily and it gives it little flexibility to spread evenly. So buying mineral spirit would be better option for good result in varnishing your art work. Thanks.
You use mineral spirits as an isolation coat?
I have a painting that i've done on a piece of wood. Will this technique still work on that? The painting is done in the classical method
do i have to mix varnish 2/3 Varnish with 1/3 Water ?or is that for isolation coat ?
Is this an acrylic or an oil painting?
Can be used on both.
Only one day after you've applied the varnish it can be framed?. I am always extremely insecure and give it months before I frame my works, so I love the idea that I can frame them in such a short period of time.
it's probably best to wait a few days rather than framing the following day....it can also depend on temperature and humidity etc... it is very hot and dry in my sunroom so things tend to dry quickly in there :-)
do you use acrylic or oil paint
I didn't notice you mentioning what paint (weather oil or acrylic) you used? Is this procedure done for acrylic painting?
Jenn Ghanem its oil
It’s oil. Same process for acrylics.
I gather this is an oil painting but i had a problem with my gloss medium on an acrylic yesterday. The gloss dried quickly as I applied and making streaks and if i went over it it didnt settle down. . I let dry overnight and now I am nervous about the 2nd coat cross the other way wont cover the streaks. This has never happened before. Can i lightly sand it and then add the 2nd coat? This is on a large acrylic. Thanks K
George answers this in the comments below.
kathleen stoll Hi, I suggest you ask Michele Theberge, look her up on UA-cam. She specializes in acrylics, especially Liquidtex products. But it does not matter if you don't use Liquidtex, she's a wealth of information and answers all questions. I know this question was 5 months ago, but I figured I send you her way.
Hi, I need some help to fix my painting. My ART teacher told me to varnish my painting by mixing turpentine with linseed oil, I'm not sure if I mixed it with incorrect ratios, but I have oil droplets on the paintings, how can I fix this.
turpentine and linseed oil mixture is not the same as varnishing. it will give the painting a temporary shine which will eventually soak in. varnish will give the shine but also acts as a protective and permanent coating. I personally wouldn't mix turpentine with linseed oil for that purpose as straight linseed oil works fine applied with a sponge. oil droplets are by other issues...in the video you'll see me mention cleaning the painting with mineral spirits once or several times before applying varnish to avoid the beading up of varnish which would be the same for linseed oil...make sure you understand the purpose of varnishing and maybe discuss it with your teacher....cheers!
@@georgeayers Good explanation, George. Some say, not to use OMS but use fine quality turpentine. Such contradictory information from various expert videos makes us confused. sometimes different words used for the same ingredients confusing budding artists!
What does varnish do?
I Am a beginner so can u plz hlp me out with this
Gauri Sontakke it's basically a way of finishing the paint that makes it last longer and either makes it shiny or matte. think of it as putting a case on your phone.
Protection for the painting. Use a varnish that is not the same medium/binder as your painting. This will allow it to be repaired if anything was to happen to it; this is especially true when using polymer-based varnishes on acrylic paint.
Is this an oil painting or acrylic
This is very surprising. Usually sprays do not cause ridges. when using spray varnish you must keep the painting flat, not on the easel/ vertical as the cans usually mention! Varnish runs and can cause ridges. Do not sand. Try this, re spray with Kammar varnish using the technique i said above. Give it three coats, with at least 3 hrs dry time between 1st & 2nd and overnight dry time(12-16hrs) between 2nd & 3rd. Tim Gagnon Kammar varnish, watch his video.
turpentine should work just fine or any paint thinner that will work with permanent varnish...it may be a good idea to make sure whatever you use works well with the varnish...mineral spirits is just a paint thinner and most major art supply companies (Gamblin, WIndsor Newton) probably have a suitable product or replacement depending on your local laws...cheers!
officially I don't know....having said that I have read that sanding will be fine as long as you are using a very fine grit...also, logically I think it should be fine with 400 grit or above but PLEASE ask around...I have no direct experience doing that so I don't want to give bad advice
How simple it looks, how complicated to do it properly.
hi i tried to varnish an acrylic painting i did a while back but it smeared the paint , what am i doing wrong ? im scared to try it again
xICECOLDKID That tells me that your acrylics don't have enough binders. Are you using acrylic craft paint or something?
i am using daler rowney system 3 and molotow acrylic pens which are very similar to posca pens.
Ok. How long did you let your painting dry before you attempted to varnish? Is your painting textural?
Ihave a painting that i let dry for months and it still smears the acrylic not all the colours smear mainly the black , im using winsor newton galaria gloss varnish and the painting is flat no chunks of paint or texture . thanks for replying
Ok, are you an excessive water user? Meaning you use water to thin a lot?
This video should be x-rated as there is a titty in the background towards the end of the video. Great video by the way. I will be using your method for sure. I previously used PVA sealer and primer watered down and it works as well and probably cheaper too. Although it probably won't look as nice as varnish. What sort of varnish do you use?
Left to right up and down is wrong way to varnish. This will produce a glare.
What is the correct way? X's? That's how I finish with gesso application or staining
I appreciate realism for the technique and skill involved. But I’ve never understood why an artist would choose to invest that energy and time into ordinary images. They seem to omit any uniqueness in their art. It seems a waste of time. It is absent of any unique imagination.
Joe Mug The artist’s vision/meaning can be expressed in ordinary objects, look up Dutch vanitas art. Like how a story can be told with the simplest, most ordain words, so an a painting,
That Is the art in my opinion, abstract is about abstracting the form. This I would call Photorealism, at the core it's about taking it as far as you can.
I do prefer the realism from the 1800 myself
I ruined my 2 hours painting 😢😢😢