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How To Clean and Seal Iron Pipes
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- Here are some of the ways I clean, seal, and protect black iron pipe projects. If you have a technique or product that works well for you let me know in the comment section below.
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Ben: / benjaminuyeda
Jessie: / ijessup
Hey Ben- great video as always. Love your stuff.
As far as the labels go, I use a heat gun like many of the other commenters. But for the grease, I use something that I don't think anyone's mentioned yet: orange pumice hand cleaner. There are a few brands (Gojo, Fast Orange, Zep off the top of my head), but they all work very well. Just apply, work for 20 seconds, and wash off. As a bonus, they're safe on skin (obviously), smell great, and aren't too expensive. Home Depot has them next to the stain/varnish section I believe.
Give it a try some time.
The reason the polycrylic you used is making the pipes look shiny is it was "clear gloss." Try the satin one and it will be much less glossy. As far as something gentle for cleaning the pipes, dish soap and water works. There is a little more drying time after, but it is much less harsh to smell and on your hands.
Man, I appreciate your videos. Thank you. I suck at home improvement/building stuff, but you make it look easy for an amateur!
Thanks for the info!! I am wanting to make a towel rack from pipe and was wanting to know the best thing to clean and seal the pipe so there is no staining of towels. Thanks again. Love your designs and yes. Definitely do more stuff with pipe!!! Take care.
My go-to adhesive remover is De-Solv-it. It's made from citrus, so it smells great and it's eco-friendly.
It works great!
Great video! This inspired me to finally get around to building and making a video about some shelf brackets for a slab I milled down a while back. The acetone + paste wax combo is my choice, as well. Works great!
very good video, quite useful and super efficient, as you usually are.
Plus... i like the absence of the slightly irritatting 1920s background music !
Keep on trucking ! (from France)
great tips. question about the poly spray. why not use the matte spray to avoid the gloss/plastic look? awesome video!
Thank you so much for this video. I am working on my first pipe DIY project. Lowe's website suggested TSP cleaner for getting the pipes cleaned - DO NOT USE TSP FOR METAL PIPES. It did absolutely nothing and then the fittings started rusting before my eyes while I was drying them. I had some acetone laying around and it took everything off including the label adhesive with like 30 seconds of rubbing.
MASSIVE TIP: Use a heat gun to heat up stickers and remove them easily without leaving behind any residue. Also works well to remove tape and stickers off shipping boxes.
your videos are soo good, and your book too.lot of great ideas
I now use the acetone and paste wax thanks to you on all my projects. Acetone works so well and I'm used to that smell of death now lol
keep in mind acetone is poisonous. Its part of GooGone too which is what makes it work. Prolonged exposure to the fumes will cause respiratory issues. I'm trying the heat gun/WD40 route. Additionally, to get labels off wine bottles so I can reuse them I put them in the oven at 350 for 15 minutes and they peel right off. Some leave the residue though..
Good stuff...I was wondering about this. Thanks for sharing.
LOVE your videos! impeccable style! wish you could come makeover my home!! but i live in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
How long does the paste wax last? Do you have to regularly give it a new coat to prevent rusting or is the 1 time application enough ?
I use boiled linseed oil with a hardener (for faster drying time) to seal iron. Works really well, you can barely see it and it's really cheap!
this was really helpful, thanks!
I used steel wool and water, might start to rust on you if you don't dry and seal soon after but works really really well to scrub it clean
Hi Ben. I've had this problem too with a few projects.
For cleaning label gunk of non-porous objects like pipes and extrusions, etc. I use WD-40 . It really does work very well and due to the built-in lubrication it removes the glue without damaging the surface finish regardless of how hard you rub.
WD-40 does offer some protection in a similar way to the board oil you recommend. But when I need to remove any oily residue, white spirit (petroleum spirit) or methelated spirits works just as well.
For protection, Johnson's Baby Oil works very well and is easily as good as most specialised protection oils, in my opinion. I know a number of yacht owners that will use Baby Oil to clean and protect their aluminium masts, spars and rails.
I hope that helps. But do try WD-30 on label goo. It really is fantastic.
Karl from UK!
Agree with the WD40
Hey Ben, what works best for me has been to use a hair dryer or heat gun to remove the labels...hope this helps
I'm putting pipe handles on a tub tray. The wax finish looks nice, but I'm concerned about possible exposure to moisture. Any thoughts? BTW, I second the recommendation to use a heat gun on labels. Many of them will peel off cleanly after being warmed up a bit. To clean the pipe itself, especially to get that greasy coating off, wash/scrub them in TSP and dry thoroughly.
WD-40 whenever you need to remove stickiness from labels, stickers, tape residue. I used to work in a bicycle shop and we used cases of that stuff for that purpose alone. Also Aquanet is what you use to install bicycle and motorcycle grips.
There is a mat finish version of the poly spray that I have used. I wasn't using it to seal metal but it should work. You could always use it after the gloss poly and have a nice matte finish.
Here's a reference for people in case they need it but I highly recommend watching the video fully to understand completely:
For Stickers: Use Goo Gone
For Cleaning: Use Mineral Spirits (Acetone is better if you can handle the smell)
For Sealing: Paste Finishing Wax
Bonus: Make sure to use gloves if you are using toxic materials such as Acetone.
Any recommendations on removing the black coating that comes on the longer pipes?
Did you ever try a citrus based cleaner? I've had good luck with it on black pipe. It takes off everything (wear gloves). I will get the exact brand later.
Hi Ben- I'm sure this question has been asked, but what is your experience with using galvanized pipe for outdoor projects like outdoor coffee tables? Does it stand against the elements? Does it rust even if you seal it?
Hi Ben, can you do a video on the different types of concrete mixes? I'm in the process of making a BB8 for a lawn ornament out of concrete and using two half sphere concrete mold, but I'm finding that the quikrete counter top mix has too many rocks in it and I want it to have a smooth finish. I haven't done much with concrete before (just made some wall hat holder in shapes of video game controllers) so I would appreciate any help on this as you can give :) Thanks!
Eucalyptus oil will remove the adhesive from the label without fuss and it's all natural. Keep up the great vids.Cheers
Great tips!
I've used mineral oil and boiled linseed oil with decent results on stuff that stays indoors. If you heat them with a little propane torch, you can change the texture of the oil. Kind of a cool twist. On stuff that goes outside, I use automotive clears. There are flat clears that look awesome on bare steel like this. Def the way to go if you are going for pro level stuff, but $$$ when compared to rattle bomb clear.
I use mineral spirits to remove the adhesive (let it sit about two min.) I then follow up with a quick rinse with denatured alcohol to remove the oil from the mineral spirits. I use a spray clear topcoat (flat for me) to seal. I will try Pentrol on next project.
My adhesive remover of choice is zippo lighter fluid.
Really tough labels can sometimes be removed with WD40, worst case scenario your workshop smells of WD40 which is a bonus (for me at least).
you can use Naphtha to clean it off quick and easy. It's the thinner that is used with rubber cement, like labels so it takes it off quick. Available at lowes or HD
Use with caution, naphtha is what was used in mothballs, but since it's a known carcinogen i'd stay away from it.
Hello I was wondering if I could possibly ask you a question I actually made a lamp but unfortunately when I wash the pipes which I was told in order to get the grease off it was simply just soap and water, and now it's rusted.
I used a product called lime away and I did take it off for possibly a couple hours or a day but the rust came back.
I was wondering if you had anything suggestions on if you know anyway in order to remove the rust and the next proper steps to coat it to protect it from rusting again
Do I dry it immediately and then coat it with the protection?
I would think has much more knowledge then even people at Home Depot. Any suggestions to save my piece I would greatly appreciate! I would hate to start all over I work so hard on this project thank you!
Your cleaning recommendations were great! I went with a Rust Oleum Clear Matte Enamel to protect and pleased with it so far. Do you happen to know what the number 300 or 302 represents on the pipe's tag?
I normally use vegetable oil for removing the labels and sealing the pipes on my projects. It works okay.
we cleaned our pipes with a copper sponge and dish washing soap and it got the gunk off and the sticker label remains. :)
So the paste finishing wax really keeps it from rusting right? I'm trusting you with half of my furniture lol
Use WD-40 or pb penetrating blaster for both the adhesive and the black coating. clean the left-over residue with soapy water or isopropyl. Way easier that what's shown here. I use a little WD to take adhesive off almost anything.
do you have to be concerned with cleaning the inside of black iron pipe if using for a lamp
Will painting also seal them?
If you like wax, try Collinite Auto, Marine and Industrial Wax Products. They make a wide variety of waxes that are extremely durable. Car and boat guys love them.
Hi!i want to clean pipes with goo gone,what type of cleaner is?i need to know because here in Argentina it must have another name!! Please!!!any idea?
Thanks!!
Penetrol works really well. I have used it on hand rails and things that get touched a lot and it doesn't get effected by the oils on people's hands. And it will stick to metal unlike most paint. Just brush it on
Flood Penetrol worked great on my black pipe bar cart. I cleaned the pipes with Mineral Spirits to remove the grease and oil from cutting. The only thing to remember is to not let the Penetrol get too thick in the threads as it can gum up your connections if you apply it before assembly.
Have you tried the water based Flood ever? I have tried and it left some marks on my pipe. Any experience? And how toxic is this penetrol, any thoughts?
awesome video. very informative. I know how much you hate chemicals, have you tried some vegetable oil to remove the adhesive? works great and all natural.
+Jonathan Perlo i will try that!
+1 oil works best
+Jonathan Perlo Wow! That's great to know!
My dad taught us years ago to use lighter fluid )charcoal lighting fluid or for lighters) to remove stickers. He used it to fix old books. It works great because it evaporates cleanly and so won't stain the paper pages. Just pour it over the label and wait 30 seconds and it will just lift off. However for other applications I will totally try vegetable oil! Who knew!
Try linseed oil. Raw and boiled both work well, although
i prefer raw.
Where can you purchase these pipes for a good value? I've bought some from home depot, but they get pricey when you're buying several different pieces
Remove the stickers with a heat gun and wd40 and a cloth.
First heat the sticker, spray a bit of wd40 on and then remove the sticker, you can peel it off with your nail, try to keep it whole. When you have removed the sticker and there's still some sticky on spray again with wd40 and wipe it off. And then you're done.
Sorry my English isn't that good, but I hope you get it.
Yup, wanted to make a comment about WD-40 myself, works great.
Good info.
once you have peeled off a sticker olive oil or pretty much any oil will wipe away the glue. Of it's stubborn I let the oily rag sit on the label for a few minutes and it should then come off easily. Olive oil certainly doesn't take an hour to work like you suggest the googone in the video does, a couple of minutes to remove sticker glue residue maybe.
If it's available, try eucalyptus oil from local pharmacy, for adhesive label. local tips from Indonesia.
Wash the pipes under hot water to melt the glue, and then scrub with steel wool. With a bit of elbow grease, you'll get those stubborn stickers off (no chemicals!). You can then use a rub-on poly with a matte finish to protect them without the shine.
fragrance free baby oil is basically pure food grade mineral oil and in the UK at least it attracts less tax so it works out cheaper too!
Penetrol works great for sealing
Use any oil (cooking oil) to remove the sticky adhesive. Then Soap to clean the oil.. fastest way
Removing stickers usually goes a lot better if you warm it first with a dryer or heatgun in this case
WD40 gets rid of glue etc. really well, it also causes silicone to lose its adherence, it would also prevent rust for a short period.
ever try sand / media blasting?
Olive oil and paper towels gets the stickiness from the tape off. Sliding a razor
Blade down behind the labels takes them off easily.
Has anyone an idea how to get the pipes in Germany? I have only found some very expensive "high end" one.. :(
Linseed oil works good for a finish
why you don't use opaque spray ?
+HomeMadeModern do the pipes come ready made in all those lengths? In the UK I've only seen them in 3 metre lengths and wonder how I get threaded ends on cut down pieces. Also I have only seen galvanised here which isn't black. 🤔
In the states the iron pipe comes in many different sizes already threaded, but at most of the stores you can also buy the longer lengths of pipe and then have then cut to length and threaded.
Also if your stores don't have the capability to cut and thread you can check and see if a local plumber will cut and thread the pipes for you.
+Ivan P Thanks. I guess they are quite soft so should be easy enough to thread with a cheap tap and die set. ??
I've never had to do the cutting myself but I don't see why you couldn't do it your self.
what is this font at the beginning of the video?
keep up the good work
also try pledge acrylic floor finish
would you know how to clean and keep the shine of copper?
José Faret I use a half lemon and coarse salt. Scrub the copper until it is as clean as you want it, then rinse with water, dry and coat with a clear topcoat.
Hi Ben, i've been meaning to ask: I've built an iron pipe shelf according to your previous video. While there where little bumps here and there given that it was my first DIY project, but i've managed to complete the project nonetheless. However, what really bothered me was that when I went to Home Depot to get iron pipe cut and threaded into the custom size, the guy would not stop complaining about spending so much time cutting and threading through out the whole process, on top of that, he would stop and go help some other customers while making me wait. I understand it was quite a task asking to cut so many pipes, but at the end, i spent like 3 hours in Home Depot just getting the materials. I have plan to make couple more of the iron pipe shelf, but now i'm afraid to go to Home Depot and go through it all over again. Has this happen to you, or perhaps anyone before?
That's terrible. They are there to help you. It is their job. I don't blame you for not wanting to go back. Try another HD if you can maybe. Don't stop making the cool projects though. Take care.
David Liao I visited 3 Lowes locations before I was able to get a capable person who did not bitch about it. After I finish my desk/shelf project, I will go by and drop off a gift card for the pipe cutter who helped me!
Go to Harbor Freight buy pipe threader $34.99 less 20% with coupon. Then you will have it for your next project and you won't have to listen to the plumbing guy that is threading pipe.
i clean all labels on any surface with rubber cement thinner. Have for 30 years, it is wonderful. I cleaned my pipes with orange soap and it worked great. My pipes were very dirty and oily and where i bought them at HD they had orange soap to clean your hands up and so i tried it.
Never had any problems with these rusting
what is steel pipe cleaning mean?
Try the nail remover
Use a heatgun to very quickly remove the stickers, then burn the leftover sticker goo off of the pipes with your handheld propane torch, let cool, then buff off the goo ash residue with a green Scotchbrite pad. Easy peazy.
i wanted to do your Bench project with the iron pipes but couldnt find 10" and 12" pipes ANYWHERE (im in canada)...even home depot told me they dont do these no more. They have 18",24" etc... :(
I do get 12" from home hardware for my website pipeworkpieces.com and I am in laval canada. Just know its not a stock item and order in advance as it can take as long as one week to receive the 12" pipe. I have stopped using 12" and all my 12" pieces are now made up of 6" pipe which is readily available everywhere with a coupling to join them together. Hope this helps.
+1 for Home Hardware.. they were the only place I found who sold the shorter pipes (8" to 12")... which are actually called nipples.
Ben Brown I've ordered 12" from home hardware for some of my projects on pipeworkpieces.com but it takes over a week to get them. Now I just use 2 6" nipples with a coupling to make my 12" pieces.
Best place Ive found for buying nipples and fittings for my projects is www.supplyhouse.com
Amazon.com
You should try a heat gun on the stickers.
I use brake cleaner fluid cans you get in the car part department. Easy to apply, smell is minimal and very very effective. Also works really well to clean stainless steel appliances.
Use a hairdryer to remove sticky labels- heat then peel
great tip! thanks!
What do I need to do if I wanted to paint the pipes
what do you use to seal for a towel shelf/bar that is least chemically hazardous? Thx for your answer in advance!
WD40 is the best for removing the sticky residue, and any oil or grease on the pipes too.
if you heat them, most labels come off quite well
King
If ONLY these were available here in the Netherlands.. Went to every single hardware-store, none of them seems to sell these kind of pipes.. Especially the floor/wall flanges...
Bestine Solvent and Thinner is pretty much designed for what you are trying to accomplish as far as the sticker is concerned, it dissolves adhesives and will not leave a film. Now if you want the stickers removed in a hurry and skin/lung safety aren't of paramount concern you can use Xylene/Xylol.
OOPS All-Purpose Adhesive Remover and Cleaner is an excellent adhesive remover.
lol @ "smells like absolute death"
Aesthetically, I let my black iron pipe projects rust.
My adhesive remover of choice is toluene.
Iso for stickers every time
Why didn't you use TSP?
+888TopGear888 TSP?
+HomeMadeModern www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inftsp.html
+HomeMadeModern www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inftsp.html
goof off works way better than goo gone for labels
I like xylene that cuts through it all
Kerosine. Is the only thing that removes sticker glue:)
or lighter fluid, or mineral spirits, or wd40, or citrus oil, and many other things
WD 40 takes off the adhesive off
Gasoline for me is the best to take off those stickers and the greasy stuff that comes over the pipes.
EASY FIX FOR STICKY LABELS. Pour boiling hot water over label. The whole label should peel of in one easy wipe. Then use steel wool for remaining adhesive. Your welcome! :-P
Please consider wearing gloves when using the acetone and paint thinner!
It's a very small thing that will keep your cancer risk as low as possible.
Your video was great and informative. Thanks for making this!
I only ask in the future you exercise proper handing, especially when making an instructional video that thousands will see.
Thanks again! :)
These are so inappropriate. There is a bunch of professional metal working products.
Care to share?
Toxic,smells like death yet still no gloves or mask???
Thanks for the informative video nonetheless!
+Ken C i used gloves for the acetone and it it melted holes in them. the loft i work in is well ventilated but you good point nonetheless!
+HomeMadeModern Use latex gloves (or better yet, butyl rubber) when handling acetone. I'm guessing you were using vinyl gloves?
+HomeMadeModern normally if you use normal latex gloves the paint thinner and acetone with go through them. Try nitrile gloves that are made to handle those substances. Also carbon filtered
filtered masks for workshop odors work for the smells. If you used a conventional mask like the ones for sand paper residue won't do very well. This 2 things are not expensive at all. I just hope you're able to find them!
Carolina De La Ossa Acetone will break through nitrile gloves even faster than latex or PVC. Here is a chemical resistance chart: www.ansellpro.com/download/Ansell_8thEditionChemicalResistanceGuide.pdf
+Nelumbo Nucifera Actually you're right, I don't know why I thought that since latex gloves melt with paint thinner, nitrile ones would work. I also find this www.ishn.com/articles/90718-what-is-the-best-glove.