The set screws in the ball race housing are probably just plugs, not meant to make contact with the race. The word 'oil' would pertain to all four holes, and the only one to use as an oiling point will be the one that ends up topmost when the housing is tightened down, and would drip feed the race and balls.
Rolling, Happy Birthday to you. Three years I've been watching and learning and laughing. It has been great fun. I hope you can continue on thru the fog and have a bang good day. Cheers!
The time flies when you are having fun. Congratulations on 3 years of tool temple videos. Good to see some details of the Oscar Ehrlich lathe. I have no experience in this lathe, but do find it interesting. Glad to hear you finally were able to get a quick change tool post. A big time saver. Dave.
I have a very similar lathe and am currently machining some new bearings out of a nylon type hard wearing plastic.untill this video I had no idea what kind of lathe I owned. Thank you
There were no shims when I took it apart and you should be able to tighten and loosen the bearing by moving it forward or backward with those big screw-on rings. So I'm not sure if shims are needed.
Happy birthday to your channel and thank you for taking the time to make the videos. Having the adverts does not put me off as a viewer. We had quite a violent thunderstorm on Wednesday as well (30 miles west of London). Many years ago I was an engineer at high power broadcast transmitters and have seen the damage that lightning can do, even melting ceramic. I once saw about a dozen strikes into the main antenna in a 20 minute period. Having said that, at home I don’t bother to disconnect anything as the chance of a direct strike is quite low, though your particular power distribution may have a greater risk. Anyway best wishes for the next broadcast year. Regards Nick.
My cousin and grand parents lost most their electrical powered equipment. My parents saw their alarm clock go up in smoke when I was as kid. I lost a computer modem/router years ago. None of this was due to a direct strike. The EM pulse coming though the wires can really screw you over.
You might check out Halligan's Workshop and his last lathe rebuild. I think it has similar bearings. That might give you some insight on how to set them up... My century old Mueller has split phosphor bronze bearings, and is adjusted with shims. Yours should do fine as long as things have not been galled, if the ones on mine are any indication. Mine has a few scratches ... not as good as I'd hoped, but certainly not as bad as I'd feared. When I took the big end apart to adjust it, I found the shim pack on one side had .002 more than the other. Removing that extra one changed the total lift of the spindle from .006 to .0025, (which is needed to allow the spindle to ride in a film of oil all the way around). I watched it closely, to make sure it didn't get overheated, on the warmest day it never went more that 20f over the rest of the headstock. That adjustment made a huge difference, not just in surface finish, but it also made parting operations a whole lot easier. At least I'm not breaking the cutting edges from the HSS blade once or twice with every attempt .
I had a look at Haligan's video. His Southbend 13" used plain bronze bearings that still look remarkably good. Lucky bastard :) Mine doesn't need shims it the big adjustment rings to slide forward and backward the tapered bronze bearing. Yesterday I assembled it and currently I have about 1or2/100mm run-out and about 0.03mm deflection when I pull up on the spindle nose. Definitely not terrible and there might be room for improvement.
@@Rolingmetal just a mention that my measurements are in imps... (imperial). I should be more specific. I can't begin to tell you what that is in mm's. I'm one of those that, when told near my high school graduation that we were going metric, said "we finally got a grasp of one system and now you tell us we have to dump that and learn another? Like hell!"
Good thing you have an imperial adjustable wrench when you are short the spanners :-) Perhaps some shim foil for the bushing cap (16:40) Many happy returns RM!!
Very interesting. Amazingly you manage to work, to explain and to film simultaneously! Your remark "It's going to be more difficult then expected" rings a bell in my mind as I am refurbishing a 1950ies lathe with similar bearings. It took me weeks to scrape them in, actually I scrapped one of them and had to make an entire new one. Currently I am testing the lathe out and experience some really strange effects which might have to do with the bearings. I don't want to discourage you, but expect some trouble ahead. With regards to the "set screws": I agree with CurlyG65 and am pretty sure that they are meant to cover the oil holes.
Regarding the "set screws" on the end cap: I would think all of them are plugs for oil ports, not set screws and should definitely not touch the bearing race. They made four of them because you would never now which one would end up on top, depending on how you adjust radial play of the left spindle bearing. With only one it might just be at the 6 o'clock position, if you are lucky. Therefore, they made for. German engineering...
from a similar bearing assembly that I refreshed it had a separate ball race on both sides of the thrust bearing. I doubt that it is designed to run on the cast surface of the end cap. .
Rolingmetal Ik ga rustig verder met wat ik doe. En zie wel waar het heen leid. Leukste gedeelte is om jezelf te blijven uitdagen leren. Na project draaibank staat nog een hoop in de planning
Happy three years Mr. President don't let anyone overthrow the channel. What country do you live in? I'm in the USA. I sure that I could put a set of imperial wrenches together out of odds and ends. It might be possible to put a set of sockets together also. Would love to see your channel continue Andy Z.
Hi Rolling metal. Is there a follow up video ? I have not been able to find one. I have a 1944 Colchester lathe with a similar bearing arrangement and with 0.050" play in the spindle that I need to adjust out. Steve.
Congratulations in the year 3 this is a long time here. Bronze bearings, we machine these as vintage machinery re-builders (by no choice) oh no Whitworth, take care of those as we call them, not metric, not imperial but makego here, just learned about these sizes actually never had head of them before, not working with English is likely why, no call as of yet. Wow Arkansas stone, you have some good tools. How is the spindle run out after cleaning, stoning the shaft do you need to machine some new Bronze Bearings? Thank you, Lance & Patrick.
I've had an Oscar Ehrlich as well but I stopped restauring it 🤭 I might have still some pictures somewhere I don't know if you are interested in a upload of them?
NOOOOO! do NOT replace those set screws with longer ones!!! They are just plugs for the oil holes. That race needs to stay as it is. The only function that assembly has is to take care of the lateral thrust, that is all! And you really should not just stone that spindle with a pebble size stone... You can give that thing a mirror finish, but it will take you two days of very patient work. Start with 600 grit wet/dry and fine oil...work your way up to 2000 grit. (always with a bit of oil) Don't try to get it all shiny in one pass, be patient. After that, you can use some diamond past or some of that M3 film start with 40 micron and work towards 1 micron. You should really replace that thrust bearing too..it seems like it has had its best days. Assembling a spindle is a tedious and long job, if you want to do it right. Once done well, it should be ok for years to come. Oh and err.... start taking your meds again? Paddy
You are right about the set screws. locking the ball race in place would be stupid as it would start to wear again the ring on the front of it. Still, it's curious 4 set screws 90 degree apart, that line up perfectly with the outside of the ball race. and how did that spindle get damaged if the ball race turns with the spindle?
It's a good question.... but I can't give you an answer. I have seen the most bizarre damages on spindles or surfaces that weren't exposed (and weren't even 'ware-surfaces'). Sometimes you start thinking that some people are doing these daft things on purpose! And yes, one oil hole would have been enough, two seems ok...4 is taking the piss LOL For a machine of that vintage, I don't think the spindle ware is excessive and it should be feasible getting it to run true and polish it up to acceptable tolerances. But as I said before.... patience and persistence are your friends here... Paddy
The set screws shouldn’t bottom out. They just keep dirt out of the oil holes. (I think) You can make some washers. Remember, we are machinists You appear to be right about the taper bearings. This is going to take a bit of fiddling to get right. It looks like a great old lathe. Take the time to get it right. Maybe you can braise up that missing tooth. I did something similar on a gear in my cross slide and filed the tooth form back in by hand. Maybe google how to adjust those bearings. I’m sure there is some complex pattern of tighten this,then tighten that.
You are right about the set screws. locking the ball race in place would be stupid as it would start to wear again the ring on the front of it. Still, it's curious 4 set screws 90 degree apart, that line up perfectly with the outside of the ball race. And how did that spindle get damaged, if the ball race turns with the spindle?
Maybe it ran dry? My lathe has little dropper Oiler cups on the spindle. I fill them up on the first lathe job of the day. My belt pully has a similar set screw in it that allows me to oil the spindle. It’s only needed when the back gear is engaged as otherwise the spindle and pully are locked together. It looks like you lathe is very adjustable. I wouldn’t be too worried about the scoring. You have stoned off the high spots on the steel shaft. I’d concentrate on adjusting for minimal free play. I do wonder what those little shims were in there for. The ones you showed from your original video. I think putting it back together will make an interesting series. PS don’t worry about the paint. Paint doesn’t cut metal :)
It most have run dry that would explain the wear mark on the bearings. Yesterday I finished putting it aback together. There is some run-out it's no bad might still be usable. But wonder if these scored bearings can still handle that big 10" independently adjustable 4 jaw scroll chuck. ps. I'm not worried about the paint. I'll jut pain it back because that's what I got :) And I probably won't show that on video. because cleaning, de rusting and painting videos not particular interesting.
The scored bearings shouldn't matter. It may wear quickly if the shaft is still a bit rough though. It is free play that will be a problem. Not just end play from the thrust bearing but also up and down, back and forward from the main bearings. Tighten the bearings too much it will wear quickly. To loose and you will have free play. It's going to be a balance I use chainsaw cutter bar oil on my head stock bearings. It is a bit sticky so it doesn't fling off straight away. It maybe even fills up the gaps a little bit :). My bearings aren't adjustable. I think there are some shims between the bearing caps. I have been putting off pulling them apart leaving well enough alone. My V belt is about to go and I have a spare. To change it I have to remove the spindle so I'm not going to be able to put it off much longer. I have seen people use a segmented belt to avoid pulling the spindle off. I reckon I'll just get into it. :) I'll leave a shim out and see if the spindle still spins nicely. If there are no shims left I may have to find new bearings. I'm not sure if I will be able to make new ones. Although that would be a great video :)
I am glad you are back on the old girl (the lathe that is). It may prove to be your best lathe. I think the brass bushings will be fine if properly adjusted. Good luck, Oh and no Alan Bradleys PLEASE! KILL THEM, KILL THEM ALL!!!
Another great video. Thank you and happy birthday. Keep the advertising. Anyone who wants to support your channel will watch the adverts. You will be a millionaire by Christmas!
Hi mr rolling metal,once again ,excellent video and comentary.can you mention the time you take videoing and editing your videos.it will surely make your faithful subscribers and fans appreciate your channel even more. How about sharing your first name with us all,then we can comment on a first name basis,or is this a top secret and a covert opperation?many thanks ,,,TW Canada s west coast
In the video I mention that it is after nine 9pm and I had to stop playing and do some editing. It was almost 2am when I was finished editing and started the upload ,that took till about nine in the morning. Not all of the time was spend editing, it also took about 80 minutes to encode the hi-res video. Also about 45 minutes was spent to encode en watch a low resolution version for quality control. Playback in the editing software just is not smooth enough for Q.C. While encoding I went back into the barn to shoot a picture for the thumbnail. Some of the video was shot and edited on Friday evening. Shooting the video itself does not cost that much extra time. But the more I shoot, the more footage I have to wade though while editing. Oh, and some time was also spent to write the presidential speech earlier this week. It's a rather time consuming hobby, but it's fun. It does slow down projects significantly. Unlike most people these day's I'm rather careful about sharing private information on the internet. Not even google has my name, they don't even have my bank number. I guess that will have to change If I ever want to see all that ads money :)
Are you sure there isn't another ball race that can be removed from that housing? With axial bearings, one ball race has smaller inner diameter than another. That's why you can't just flip it around as you want. Ball race with smaller diameter must go tightly on the shaft (sometimes you need to press it on), that's what keeps it from rotating on the shaft. Ball race with bigger inner diameter is loose fit on the shaft, so it goes into the housing. Small amount of play is what keeps it from contacting the rotating shaft and possibly galling. I'm not sure from the video, but they might be flipped around, so I would check it out.
@@janvanruth3485 That would also explain the scoring on the shaft. But I would replace that bearing anyway, even cheap one will be better than 50 years old one.
Google/UA-cam used their content creators to build their viewer base, then took the financial incentive away. Now I've demonetized all my videos and only leave them there so folks can have a laugh or two, and maybe get an ASMR fix out of the shaper videos. It's just not worth the hassle to have to worry about the measly taxable income it brings in. Still waiting for a viable replacement for UA-cam to come along, then I'm closing up shop and moving over there.
I don’t mind a few commercials during the video if it helps to keep the channel operational. As far as the bangood, I haven’t found anything worth the money. I would like to buy from them to help, but it’s money thrown away in my eyes.
They do sell a lot of junk and questionable products :) But so far I've got some good and usable tools from them. I guess it all depends on the standards one has. Sure, I would like high end tools, but do I need them, probably not :)
I found the donate link on the About page. Tried to donate but it isn't in English. I think I clicked the right things but then it said there was a problem and I should try again later. Anybody else have any luck?
In the About page I can edit the link. But there should be an icon on the right on top of the Banner. The language is probably selected from the computers local setting. On me other computer it comes up in Dutch.
ik heb de video nog een keer of wat bekeken en ik geloof dat je een ring van het taatslager mist die hoort in het huis met de vier oliegaten te zitten, denk ik ik geloof namelijk niet dat de kogels rechtstreeks tegen de binnenkant van het huis horen te lopen. tenzij er een mooie groef gemaakt is in de achterkant van het huis waar de kogels tegen kunnen lopen
Shouldn't the ball bearings be between the two hardened bushes for the thrust bearing assembly. The way you have it the balls will contact the end cap.
02Andy, I thought the same thing when I saw only one race for the thrust bearing. All I have ever seen have hardened inner and outer races to capture the bearing ring. I thought it may be possible that the outer race was milled into the cap but after thinking about it that’s doubtful as the cap would be too soft unless the inner surface was case hardened but that too is doubtful considering the age of the machine. At any rate it is a decent machine and well worth the effort of restoration.
rM, That’s good then. There must be a race on both sides in order for it to function properly. If it’s pressed in ya better hope you never have to remove it. It can be done but it won’t be pretty. Good luck getting the machine up and running. It looks to be worth the effort. I like to see these old vintage machine restored and put back into service. I will do the same if I ever locate a decent large or mill at a decent price. Here in the US even the junk machines are bringing a premium these days. I bid on an old hand operated shaper on eBay recently that would have needed a tremendous amount of restoration. For a while week my low bid held. Two hours before the deadline the bids went ballistic. It was ridiculous. The very basic tool went for over seven hundred bucks! It wasn’t even what could be called “vintage”. People go crazy sometimes.
groeven in het lager zijn geen probleem zolang ze maar radiaal zijn en de spindel op dezelfde axiale plaats blijft als het lager strakker gesteld wordt levert dat wel even een probleem op, vandaar dat de spindel niet wilde draaien, maar dat gaat weg met het inlopen van de spindel. het nastellen van de speling van de spindel, tijdens normaal gebruik, gaat met zulk kleine beetjes dat het geen probleem vormt. de oliegaten zijn niet meer dan dat: oliegaten. de ring van het taatslager mag vrij draaien, de druk op het taatslager voorkomt dat het mee draait onder belasting. vastzetten van de ring gebeurt nooit omdat de kogels dan niet meer hun weg kunnen zoeken in de groef en het lager binnen de korste keren naar de kloten is. als je me een adres doet toekomen stuur ik je wat MoS2 poeder, ideaal voor het inlopen van lagers en loopvlakken. voor montage een beetje poeder op de lagervlakken en monteren. ik heb het in een oliekan, met daarin een lager van een centimeter of zo, voor gebruik flink schudden en de MoS2 mengt zich weer met de olie.
@@therealspixycat nee het is niet hard maar juist zacht, het hecht zich aan het metaal en vult op microsopisch niveau oneffenheden. wrijvingscoefficient is heel laag molykote was erop gebaseerd
@@therealspixycat niet dat ik weet. MoS2 is al zo oud als de mensheid, mijn vader gebruikte het al voor de oorlog bij het inlopen van spindels nadat de lagers geschraapt waren. in het zakje met vet dat je krijgt bij een homokineet van een auto zit meestal ook MoS2 houdend vet. de vllkken die dat spul geeft in je kleren krijg je er nooit meer uit.
Ik gebruik ook mos2 olie in mijn Karger draaibank met gietijzeren lagers. Maar ik ben er nog niet van overtuigt dat mos2 ook goed is voor bronzen lagers. Gister heb ik de spindel weer in elkaar gezet. resultaat is niet geweldig maar ook niet totaal ontmoedigend. Ik vraag mij af of deze oude lagers die zware 10" klauwplaat nog aankunnen. Dat ding weegt waarschijnlijkk wel 40 kilo
hallo mijn bronze bearing die he ik veranderd voor die plastike bearings ja toch wel harder en glijd beter minder friction ,maar altijd olie erbij ,met deze oer oude draaibanken ben je altijd bezig ,pok al gebruike we betere tools maar de machine is het zelfde ,kijk
You are quite the character Mr. President. Quite the sense of humor after all eh? I see that you manage to keep up with the times when you aren't busting you knuckles. I really hope this channel takes off man. I may have to give you a plug and see if your numbers don't bump slightly for a day or two. Just for information purposes ya know.
Those are tapered bushings. Adjust them to the smallest end before tightening the caps, then adjust the bushings. A very smart design actually.
Congratulations on 3 years and happy birthday, I really hope there will be another 3 years of interesting content to come, thank you. Matty🇦🇺
We'll see. I'm a bit surprised I got so far.
But I'm starting to think more and more about my neglected project car.
The set screws in the ball race housing are probably just plugs, not meant to make contact with the race. The word 'oil' would pertain to all four holes, and the only one to use as an oiling point will be the one that ends up topmost when the housing is tightened down, and would drip feed the race and balls.
Rolling, Happy Birthday to you. Three years I've been watching and learning and laughing. It has been great fun. I hope you can continue on thru the fog and have a bang good day. Cheers!
The time flies when you are having fun. Congratulations on 3 years of tool temple videos.
Good to see some details of the Oscar Ehrlich lathe. I have no experience in this lathe, but do find it interesting.
Glad to hear you finally were able to get a quick change tool post. A big time saver.
Dave.
Time definitely flies when you need to finish editing a video. It was 2AM when I started the upload.
I need to plan things better :)
Cool stuff , the slots on the carriage on the old lathe can come in handy at times , Cheers .
please keep putting out your videos alot of us appreciate them.
I do like making them :)
I have a very similar lathe and am currently machining some new bearings out of a nylon type hard wearing plastic.untill this video I had no idea what kind of lathe I owned. Thank you
Plastic bearing, interesting :) Make a video would love to see that in action!
You're supposed to shim the bearing cap mounting boss for a free-turning shaft with little runout when nuts are torqued down.
Yeah, I was gonna say the same thing.
There were no shims when I took it apart and you should be able to tighten and loosen the bearing by moving it forward or backward with those big screw-on rings. So I'm not sure if shims are needed.
To prevent compressing the bronze taped bearings? Is this the root cause of all the damage?
@@Rolingmetal I think it is paramount how this exactly work otherwise it will never run correctly (read: you will gull more " witness marks")
spindle is back to together. It's not that dificult ones you have it figured out. unfortunately there is a a bit of runout.
Happy birthday to your channel and thank you for taking the time to make the videos. Having the adverts does not put me off as a viewer. We had quite a violent thunderstorm on Wednesday as well (30 miles west of London). Many years ago I was an engineer at high power broadcast transmitters and have seen the damage that lightning can do, even melting ceramic. I once saw about a dozen strikes into the main antenna in a 20 minute period. Having said that, at home I don’t bother to disconnect anything as the chance of a direct strike is quite low, though your particular power distribution may have a greater risk.
Anyway best wishes for the next broadcast year. Regards Nick.
The indirect induction could also harm destroy sensitive equipment close to the lightning strike
My cousin and grand parents lost most their electrical powered equipment.
My parents saw their alarm clock go up in smoke when I was as kid.
I lost a computer modem/router years ago.
None of this was due to a direct strike. The EM pulse coming though the wires can really screw you over.
Don,t know what the fuck you were rambling about at the end there , but your dead pan delivery was divine. Keep making vids.
You might check out Halligan's Workshop and his last lathe rebuild. I think it has similar bearings. That might give you some insight on how to set them up...
My century old Mueller has split phosphor bronze bearings, and is adjusted with shims. Yours should do fine as long as things have not been galled, if the ones on mine are any indication. Mine has a few scratches ... not as good as I'd hoped, but certainly not as bad as I'd feared. When I took the big end apart to adjust it, I found the shim pack on one side had .002 more than the other. Removing that extra one changed the total lift of the spindle from .006 to .0025, (which is needed to allow the spindle to ride in a film of oil all the way around). I watched it closely, to make sure it didn't get overheated, on the warmest day it never went more that 20f over the rest of the headstock. That adjustment made a huge difference, not just in surface finish, but it also made parting operations a whole lot easier. At least I'm not breaking the cutting edges from the HSS blade once or twice with every attempt .
I had a look at Haligan's video. His Southbend 13" used plain bronze bearings that still look remarkably good. Lucky bastard :)
Mine doesn't need shims it the big adjustment rings to slide forward and backward the tapered bronze bearing.
Yesterday I assembled it and currently I have about 1or2/100mm run-out and about 0.03mm deflection when I pull up on the spindle nose. Definitely not terrible and there might be room for improvement.
@@Rolingmetal just a mention that my measurements are in imps... (imperial). I should be more specific. I can't begin to tell you what that is in mm's.
I'm one of those that, when told near my high school graduation that we were going metric, said "we finally got a grasp of one system and now you tell us we have to dump that and learn another? Like hell!"
Good thing you have an imperial adjustable wrench when you are short the spanners :-) Perhaps some shim foil for the bushing cap (16:40) Many happy returns RM!!
I've got the same one in metric.
Congratulations
At 0:50 the Oscar Ehrlich looks slmost like almost a galactic battle cruiser flying by, with the tailstock housing the bridge.. :-)
You have a vivid imagination :)
Very interesting. Amazingly you manage to work, to explain and to film simultaneously!
Your remark "It's going to be more difficult then expected" rings a bell in my mind as I am refurbishing a 1950ies lathe with similar bearings. It took me weeks to scrape them in, actually I scrapped one of them and had to make an entire new one. Currently I am testing the lathe out and experience some really strange effects which might have to do with the bearings.
I don't want to discourage you, but expect some trouble ahead.
With regards to the "set screws": I agree with CurlyG65 and am pretty sure that they are meant to cover the oil holes.
Nice looking lathe be nice to see it operating again good luck.
Great video, I really enjoyed your speech, keep the videos coming and good things will come to you in return! Cheers, Ray
Thanks Ray, I'll do my best. We'll see where this ends.
Man, that is a nice, old, lathe.
HI, wonderful video, how to find taps for those empirial screws though? I damaged one of them.
Regarding the "set screws" on the end cap: I would think all of them are plugs for oil ports, not set screws and should definitely not touch the bearing race. They made four of them because you would never now which one would end up on top, depending on how you adjust radial play of the left spindle bearing. With only one it might just be at the 6 o'clock position, if you are lucky. Therefore, they made for. German engineering...
Happy birthday. My 1 year is coming up soon.
Start working on your speech :)
from a similar bearing assembly that I refreshed it had a separate ball race on both sides of the thrust bearing. I doubt that it is designed to run on the cast surface of the end cap. .
the other ball race is pressed into the bottom on the cap.
Congratulations with your channel!
Your video made me laugh! Greetings from Gelderland
Rolingmetal
Die apen hebben voorlopig meer bezoekers dan mijn kanaal
Alle begin is lastig. Het duurde bijna 8 maanden voordat ik mijn eerste abonnee had.
Rolingmetal
Ik ga rustig verder met wat ik doe.
En zie wel waar het heen leid. Leukste gedeelte is om jezelf te blijven uitdagen leren.
Na project draaibank staat nog een hoop in de planning
Happy three years Mr. President don't let anyone overthrow the channel. What country do you live in? I'm in the USA. I sure that I could put a set of imperial wrenches together out of odds and ends. It might be possible to put a set of sockets together also. Would love to see your channel continue Andy Z.
Hi Rolling metal.
Is there a follow up video ?
I have not been able to find one.
I have a 1944 Colchester lathe with a similar bearing arrangement and with 0.050" play in the spindle that I need to adjust out.
Steve.
Hello, do you know the Production Year of this Lathe?
best requards
Daniel
Great video,
Congratulations in the year 3 this is a long time here.
Bronze bearings, we machine these as vintage machinery re-builders (by no choice) oh no Whitworth, take care of those as we call them, not metric, not imperial but makego here, just learned about these sizes actually never had head of them before, not working with English is likely why, no call as of yet.
Wow Arkansas stone, you have some good tools.
How is the spindle run out after cleaning, stoning the shaft do you need to machine some new Bronze Bearings?
Thank you,
Lance & Patrick.
I've had an Oscar Ehrlich as well but I stopped restauring it 🤭 I might have still some pictures somewhere I don't know if you are interested in a upload of them?
would love to see some more Ehrlich or IXL pictures.
Thanks, very interesting. Similar bar a bit smaller. And also with two piece of shim-stock on top of the front bearing :)
NOOOOO! do NOT replace those set screws with longer ones!!! They are just plugs for the oil holes. That race needs to stay as it is. The only function that assembly has is to take care of the lateral thrust, that is all!
And you really should not just stone that spindle with a pebble size stone...
You can give that thing a mirror finish, but it will take you two days of very patient work.
Start with 600 grit wet/dry and fine oil...work your way up to 2000 grit. (always with a bit of oil) Don't try to get it all shiny in one pass, be patient. After that, you can use some diamond past or some of that M3 film
start with 40 micron and work towards 1 micron.
You should really replace that thrust bearing too..it seems like it has had its best days.
Assembling a spindle is a tedious and long job, if you want to do it right.
Once done well, it should be ok for years to come.
Oh and err.... start taking your meds again?
Paddy
You are right about the set screws. locking the ball race in place would be stupid as it would start to wear again the ring on the front of it. Still, it's curious 4 set screws 90 degree apart, that line up perfectly with the outside of the ball race. and how did that spindle get damaged if the ball race turns with the spindle?
It's a good question.... but I can't give you an answer. I have seen the most bizarre damages on spindles or surfaces that weren't exposed (and weren't even 'ware-surfaces').
Sometimes you start thinking that some people are doing these daft things on purpose!
And yes, one oil hole would have been enough, two seems ok...4 is taking the piss LOL
For a machine of that vintage, I don't think the spindle ware is excessive and it should be feasible getting it to run true and polish it up to acceptable tolerances. But as I said before.... patience and persistence are your friends here...
Paddy
that lathe spindle looks the same size as the one in the old lathe I am restoring, do you know what size / style / model it is?? thanks
The set screws shouldn’t bottom out. They just keep dirt out of the oil holes. (I think)
You can make some washers. Remember, we are machinists
You appear to be right about the taper bearings. This is going to take a bit of fiddling to get right.
It looks like a great old lathe. Take the time to get it right.
Maybe you can braise up that missing tooth. I did something similar on a gear in my cross slide and filed the tooth form back in by hand.
Maybe google how to adjust those bearings. I’m sure there is some complex pattern of tighten this,then tighten that.
You are right about the set screws. locking the ball race in place would be stupid as it would start to wear again the ring on the front of it. Still, it's curious 4 set screws 90 degree apart, that line up perfectly with the outside of the ball race. And how did that spindle get damaged, if the ball race turns with the spindle?
Maybe it ran dry?
My lathe has little dropper Oiler cups on the spindle. I fill them up on the first lathe job of the day.
My belt pully has a similar set screw in it that allows me to oil the spindle. It’s only needed when the back gear is engaged as otherwise the spindle and pully are locked together.
It looks like you lathe is very adjustable. I wouldn’t be too worried about the scoring. You have stoned off the high spots on the steel shaft. I’d concentrate on adjusting for minimal free play. I do wonder what those little shims were in there for. The ones you showed from your original video.
I think putting it back together will make an interesting series.
PS don’t worry about the paint. Paint doesn’t cut metal :)
It most have run dry that would explain the wear mark on the bearings. Yesterday I finished putting it aback together.
There is some run-out it's no bad might still be usable.
But wonder if these scored bearings can still handle that big 10" independently adjustable 4 jaw scroll chuck.
ps. I'm not worried about the paint. I'll jut pain it back because that's what I got :)
And I probably won't show that on video. because cleaning, de rusting and painting videos not particular interesting.
The scored bearings shouldn't matter. It may wear quickly if the shaft is still a bit rough though.
It is free play that will be a problem. Not just end play from the thrust bearing but also up and down, back and forward from the main bearings. Tighten the bearings too much it will wear quickly. To loose and you will have free play. It's going to be a balance
I use chainsaw cutter bar oil on my head stock bearings. It is a bit sticky so it doesn't fling off straight away. It maybe even fills up the gaps a little bit :). My bearings aren't adjustable. I think there are some shims between the bearing caps. I have been putting off pulling them apart leaving well enough alone. My V belt is about to go and I have a spare. To change it I have to remove the spindle so I'm not going to be able to put it off much longer. I have seen people use a segmented belt to avoid pulling the spindle off. I reckon I'll just get into it. :) I'll leave a shim out and see if the spindle still spins nicely. If there are no shims left I may have to find new bearings. I'm not sure if I will be able to make new ones. Although that would be a great video :)
I am glad you are back on the old girl (the lathe that is). It may prove to be your best lathe. I think the brass bushings will be fine if properly adjusted. Good luck, Oh and no Alan Bradleys PLEASE! KILL THEM, KILL THEM ALL!!!
Everyone is having a rough time now. Keep at it man, and give us a mailing address to send you tools/materials. A PayPal email would be good too!
MATT FIELDS
I was looking for address as well.
Me Too
I actually mention the paypall button on the chanelshome page during my state of the channel speech.
Rolingmetal
However, still no address for contributing other than cash.
Another great video. Thank you and happy birthday. Keep the advertising. Anyone who wants to support your channel will watch the adverts. You will be a millionaire by Christmas!
A millionaire by Christmas :)Although the previous video did do surprisingly welll
Hi mr rolling metal,once again ,excellent video and comentary.can you mention the time you take videoing and editing your videos.it will surely make your faithful subscribers and fans appreciate your channel even more.
How about sharing your first name with us all,then we can comment on a first name basis,or is this a top secret and a covert opperation?many thanks ,,,TW Canada s west coast
In the video I mention that it is after nine 9pm and I had to stop playing and do some editing. It was almost 2am when I was finished editing and started the upload ,that took till about nine in the morning. Not all of the time was spend editing, it also took about 80 minutes to encode the hi-res video. Also about 45 minutes was spent to encode en watch a low resolution version for quality control. Playback in the editing software just is not smooth enough for Q.C. While encoding I went back into the barn to shoot a picture for the thumbnail. Some of the video was shot and edited on Friday evening.
Shooting the video itself does not cost that much extra time. But the more I shoot, the more footage I have to wade though while editing. Oh, and some time was also spent to write the presidential speech earlier this week. It's a rather time consuming hobby, but it's fun. It does slow down projects significantly.
Unlike most people these day's I'm rather careful about sharing private information on the internet. Not even google has my name, they don't even have my bank number. I guess that will have to change If I ever want to see all that ads money :)
Are you sure there isn't another ball race that can be removed from that housing? With axial bearings, one ball race has smaller inner diameter than another. That's why you can't just flip it around as you want. Ball race with smaller diameter must go tightly on the shaft (sometimes you need to press it on), that's what keeps it from rotating on the shaft. Ball race with bigger inner diameter is loose fit on the shaft, so it goes into the housing. Small amount of play is what keeps it from contacting the rotating shaft and possibly galling. I'm not sure from the video, but they might be flipped around, so I would check it out.
your remark got me thinking he is missing a race as he only sows the one
@@janvanruth3485 That would also explain the scoring on the shaft. But I would replace that bearing anyway, even cheap one will be better than 50 years old one.
the second ball race seems to be pressed into the end cap.
How costly are milling machines in your area? We can from time to time find cheap albeit darn worn out ones in the states.
The big ones start at 1500. Nice small ones are usually a lot more expensive
Google/UA-cam used their content creators to build their viewer base, then took the financial incentive away. Now I've demonetized all my videos and only leave them there so folks can have a laugh or two, and maybe get an ASMR fix out of the shaper videos. It's just not worth the hassle to have to worry about the measly taxable income it brings in. Still waiting for a viable replacement for UA-cam to come along, then I'm closing up shop and moving over there.
I don’t mind a few commercials during the video if it helps to keep the channel operational. As far as the bangood, I haven’t found anything worth the money. I would like to buy from them to help, but it’s money thrown away in my eyes.
They do sell a lot of junk and questionable products :) But so far I've got some good and usable tools from them. I guess it all depends on the standards one has. Sure, I would like high end tools, but do I need them, probably not :)
The lathe turning tools and inserts are pretty decent.
I found the donate link on the About page. Tried to donate but it isn't in English. I think I clicked the right things but then it said there was a problem and I should try again later. Anybody else have any luck?
In the About page I can edit the link. But there should be an icon on the right on top of the Banner.
The language is probably selected from the computers local setting. On me other computer it comes up in Dutch.
Dream machine.
Year produk??
I estimate it was made somewhere between the first and second world war.
I loved your presidential address!!
Next year, after the election, he'll be back :)
@@Rolingmetal my people.......I think only of you
Do you have competitors?
sure, and apparently also enemies :)
Was the channel not called "RollingMetal" before? Or am I crazy?
watch this: ua-cam.com/video/4yVTbBro8Zg/v-deo.html
ik heb de video nog een keer of wat bekeken en ik geloof dat je een ring van het taatslager mist
die hoort in het huis met de vier oliegaten te zitten, denk ik
ik geloof namelijk niet dat de kogels rechtstreeks tegen de binnenkant van het huis horen te lopen.
tenzij er een mooie groef gemaakt is in de achterkant van het huis waar de kogels tegen kunnen lopen
Het andere deel van het druk lager zit vast onder in het druklager "huis"
@@Rolingmetal ok dan klopt het allemaal
Is it your birthday?
Not mine, but my YT channel just got 3 Year.
Rolingmetal , happy birthday RM
Shouldn't the ball bearings be between the two hardened bushes for the thrust bearing assembly. The way you have it the balls will contact the end cap.
The end cap has a bearing groove, when the cap is lock off the rear nuts adjust the end play.
02Andy,
I thought the same thing when I saw only one race for the thrust bearing. All I have ever seen have hardened inner and outer races to capture the bearing ring. I thought it may be possible that the outer race was milled into the cap but after thinking about it that’s doubtful as the cap would be too soft unless the inner surface was case hardened but that too is doubtful considering the age of the machine. At any rate it is a decent machine and well worth the effort of restoration.
It looks like the other ball race has been pressed into the end cap.
rM,
That’s good then. There must be a race on both sides in order for it to function properly. If it’s pressed in ya better hope you never have to remove it. It can be done but it won’t be pretty. Good luck getting the machine up and running. It looks to be worth the effort. I like to see these old vintage machine restored and put back into service. I will do the same if I ever locate a decent large or mill at a decent price. Here in the US even the junk machines are bringing a premium these days.
I bid on an old hand operated shaper on eBay recently that would have needed a tremendous amount of restoration. For a while week my low bid held. Two hours before the deadline the bids went ballistic. It was ridiculous. The very basic tool went for over seven hundred bucks! It wasn’t even what could be called “vintage”. People go crazy sometimes.
this is my dad that always was saying if your not Dutch your not much lol
Everyone wants to be a comedian, but can they also machine?
No, everyone wants to have some fun.
groeven in het lager zijn geen probleem zolang ze maar radiaal zijn en de spindel op dezelfde axiale plaats blijft
als het lager strakker gesteld wordt levert dat wel even een probleem op, vandaar dat de spindel niet wilde draaien, maar dat gaat weg met het inlopen van de spindel.
het nastellen van de speling van de spindel, tijdens normaal gebruik, gaat met zulk kleine beetjes dat het geen probleem vormt.
de oliegaten zijn niet meer dan dat: oliegaten.
de ring van het taatslager mag vrij draaien, de druk op het taatslager voorkomt dat het mee draait onder belasting.
vastzetten van de ring gebeurt nooit omdat de kogels dan niet meer hun weg kunnen zoeken in de groef en het lager binnen de korste keren naar de kloten is.
als je me een adres doet toekomen stuur ik je wat MoS2 poeder, ideaal voor het inlopen van lagers en loopvlakken.
voor montage een beetje poeder op de lagervlakken en monteren.
ik heb het in een oliekan, met daarin een lager van een centimeter of zo, voor gebruik flink schudden en de MoS2 mengt zich weer met de olie.
Dat poeder hoont de as en het lager als het ware tijdens gebruik?
@@therealspixycat nee het is niet hard maar juist zacht, het hecht zich aan het metaal en vult op microsopisch niveau oneffenheden.
wrijvingscoefficient is heel laag
molykote was erop gebaseerd
@@janvanruth3485 weer wat geleerd. Nooit eerder van gehoord. Noemen ze dat ook wel eens "vloeibaar metaal" misschien?
@@therealspixycat niet dat ik weet.
MoS2 is al zo oud als de mensheid,
mijn vader gebruikte het al voor de oorlog bij het inlopen van spindels nadat de lagers geschraapt waren.
in het zakje met vet dat je krijgt bij een homokineet van een auto zit meestal ook MoS2 houdend vet.
de vllkken die dat spul geeft in je kleren krijg je er nooit meer uit.
Ik gebruik ook mos2 olie in mijn Karger draaibank met gietijzeren lagers.
Maar ik ben er nog niet van overtuigt dat mos2 ook goed is voor bronzen lagers.
Gister heb ik de spindel weer in elkaar gezet. resultaat is niet geweldig maar ook niet totaal ontmoedigend.
Ik vraag mij af of deze oude lagers die zware 10" klauwplaat nog aankunnen. Dat ding weegt waarschijnlijkk wel 40 kilo
hallo mijn bronze bearing die he ik veranderd voor die plastike bearings ja toch wel harder en glijd beter minder friction ,maar altijd olie erbij ,met deze oer oude draaibanken ben je altijd bezig ,pok al gebruike we betere tools maar de machine is het zelfde ,kijk
plastic bearings, like the sleeve bearings on those cheap and noise little computer fans?
Lanjodaka
You are quite the character Mr. President. Quite the sense of humor after all eh?
I see that you manage to keep up with the times when you aren't busting you knuckles.
I really hope this channel takes off man. I may have to give you a plug and see if your numbers don't bump slightly for a day or two.
Just for information purposes ya know.