How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Washer Tub Seal W10324647
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2017
- How To Replace: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Tub Seal W10324647 www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
Symptoms: damaged and water is leaking on the floor.
Tools: towel, pliers, 1/4" nut driver, tape, towel/lanyard, small flathead screwdriver, 7/16" socket with ratchet and extension, wire brush, penetrating oil, spanner wrench, rubber mallet, large Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, flathead screwdriver, chisel, 5/16" nut driver, 10mm socket with ratchet and extension, wire cutter, blue threadlocker.
This Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag made Whirlpool Washer Tub Seal replaces the following older part numbers on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears and Kenmore Whirlpool Washers: 1877231, W10006371.
Buy the new Whirlpool Washer Tub Seal W10324647 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
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The video's are extremely through and helpful. Appliance Parts Pro's have saved me a lot of time and money. Only with their video's have I been able to repair both my clothes washer and dryers. A word of caution. Once you learn the parts you need to repair your appliance via the video. DO NOT search other sites for a less expensive part. I admit that I did it to save a few bucks. The result was being sent the wrong part and I ended up purchasing the correct part from Appliance Parts Pro's. Thank you for all the help you provide to DIYer's.
These are the best instruction videos on UA-cam!! Thank you and may God continue to bless you!!
Great video, I replaced gearbox as well and this is very helpful
This was a very helpful video. I’m a 55 year old mom and did this today with my daughter who helped me hold the tub and to tip the washer over safely. My drive block was a one piece plastic design ( which I replaced with a new one) and my wiring harness connectors were configured a bit differently, but otherwise instructions were great. One problem I had was that the tub seal was stuck to the shaft and I had to carefully remove it in pieces with a box cutter. I couldn’t find any assistance to remove any other way. After reassembly and calibration everything is working fine with no more leaks. My washer was really gross so we cleaned it all thoroughly before reassembling it again. Pulling out the tub seal and cleaning took extra time so total time was a few hours. Watch it through at least once before you start.
This video is just what I needed thank you
This helped me with a variety of questions with my Whirlpool 4950 washer. Thanks.
One of the best how-to videos I've viewed.
Hands down best repair videos!!
Thank you!
exelente gracias por subir video, y ayudarnos a nosotros los tecnicos, saludos desde venezuela,congratulatio for public video
¡Gracias! Estamos encantados de ayudarle.
Excellent video.
¡Muchas gracias!
A very well presented video.
You are the best!!!!
Thanks for the diy it help a lot
Very helpful 👌🏼
Thank you for the video. I have a Maytag MVWX700XW1 that is very similar to this. Our clothes were getting grease marks so I pulled the wash plate. There was grease all over the back of the wash plate. I bought a new gear case and tab seal and plan on replacing them both, but do you think the grease was coming from the grease inside the tub seal or something in the gear case?
What about tubs with a press fit metal washer holding the tub seal to the shaft?
This video was very informative and spot on for changing this seal, but if mine still leaks after changing the seal, is there anything else I can do? I'm afraid to tighten the hub nut more to squeeze the seal. I don't want to split the nut or ruin my outer tub. Could the output shaft which the seal surrounds be the problem?
Without a model number for your appliance and the details it would be hard to say. However, if you change the seal and it still leaks, get in contact with us and we'll help you work out where the problem is. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Removing the spin basket from shaft problem. With the outer tub removed from washer housing put the bolt back in the shafts that holds on the wash plate fully seated . Now with a helper (it's easier with two) hold the spin basket from inside curved ring while helper pounds on the bolt with a sledge hammer by dropping it right on the bolt head 4 to 6 inch drops guiding with handle it will slowly tap it out. It did not damage the shafts or bolt threads. My seal stayed on the shafts not in the outer tub like the video.
Joe - I have a old kitchenaid Washer. It's making a loud whinding / banging sound that doesn't sound good when it's in Spin Cycle. I was hoping it was motor coupler but its not (I checked) I think it's either Clutch, Transmission, or maybe Tub bearing is bad (or something else)? I don't know. The loud sound starts within seconds & gets louder. It will fill with water, run & will spin but sounds horrible when it does. What could it be?
I found my gear rubbing problem, the NEW gear box inside splined shaft shoulder was 1/32 to short and allowed the outside teeth on the pulley to rub the inner teeth which sounded like it was tearing the teeth off. Put it back on the old gear box and it cleared fine. Measured the NEW gear case small shaft shoulder (inside the spring/splines)and it was 1/32 shorter than the old one. This allowed the flywheel close enough to rub the teeth on the inside. I drilled the inside hole bigger on a stainless machine washer and put it on the small splined shaft which located the flywheel 1/32 out from the cam unit and so far it's working. My first thought was that I lost the machine washer inside the unit but after a check on the old gearbox I found no machine washer and it cleared, no noise at all. It's something to watch for if you buy a new gear case. After working in a machine shop for years I would guess whoever did the machining on the shaft cut it in to much and never figured it would matter, it matters!
Thanks for letting us know!
Muchas gracias por el video verdaderamente profesional,lo trate de hacer en mi whirlpool mod,7MWTW1950YW1,pero al llegar al minuto 7:50 de su video ya no pude sacar la canastilla, esta atascada, podria ayudarme ? aprecio mucho su atencion y ahora SOY UN SUSCRIPTOR MAS DE SU CANAL , de antemano MUCHISIMAS GRACIAS !!!!
What kinda grease is that? Mine didnt come with it. Or wat type of grease can i use
Thanks for the video. My 2012 Cabrio didn't have a drive block or sound shield. I just took the machine apart and there was no drive block. Is that something that was added after 2012?
What is the model number of your appliance?
After removing the 7/16" bolt, I'm unable to remove the wash plate. Excellent instructions to this point.
Don Mattson were you able to figure out how to get the wash plate off? I am having the same issue. I got the bolt removed but the it’s like the wash plate is locked to the shaft
Saaaaaaame!!!
It’s likely seized to the shaft. Just takes a bunch of working.
Good view now find parts
does this fix apply to the wtw5000dw0 washer?
Mine had a black rubber bung type ring between the top of the wash plate and the wash plate bolt. Any idea what that part is called? It’s a Maytag.
Any advice for what to do when that lower agitator base will NOT slip on so easily? I Have tried and tried and studied the innards of the agitator and the base that it slips over and it will not go back down all the way like it was. It's the same one that has been on there i just removed to clean. It gets stuck and the base of it is raised about 2 inches above the bottom of the washing machine. Help
I had that same issue- I cleared the slots with a screw driver on the agitator and shaft, and after slowly trying it on each click it finally went down most of the way and using the screw I seated it the rest of the way by force. Probably not coming off anything soon however
I have a Whirpool WTW5600XW0 but I couldn't find the Drive Block on your website, also I need the Spanner Wrench.. No luck with your site any Ideas? Thank You
After i removed the six screws in the bottom of tub my piece is metal not plastic how does that come off
If your going to pull the gear case down to change the seal you might as well change the gear case
Got all of the hardware off but still cant get the spin basket out? I even took the tub all the way out took off the 4 screws on the transmission to see if I could pull it out from the bottom but that spin basket will not come off?
I am at the same point, doing the same thing, just won't come off.
I took the whole tub out and laid it on it's side then took off the 4 screws holding the transmission on. I then took a long board 2x4 and placed it up against the end of the shaft and put the hammer to it. It finally came out, very corroded. I cleaned it up it up replaced the tub seal and put it back together.
maybe have someone pull from the trany side while you hammer ??
That is my current plan. I am replacing the transmission, so not concerned about the shaft. just waiting for oldest to have time to help.
I got 20 of these machines from a public housing authority. What seems to be a common problem is the shift actuator. Replacing the actuator fixes the machine. When they are bad, the washer only clicks and no water comes in. What happens is that water leaks from "the tub area" and goes straight into the sensor and corrodes the tiny circuit board that is under a plastic shield that is part of the sensor. These machines so far have all had bad upper bearings on the transmission. If you are lucky enough to get the inner tub out and remove the transmission, you might notice that the top of the transmission is not rusty. What happens is that water gets into the transmission via the seal for the agitator splines. As far as I can tell, that seal is not available. The inner tub retainer set up has been a fight every time. The inner tub splines can become so corroded that, out of stubbornness, I took a cutting wheel and cut the plastic of the inner tub (destroying the tub) in the area around the splines. The inner splines to the transmission came out when I pressed on that shaft and it popped out the case rivets of the transmission and all the gears broke and fell out. I then put a cross piece of wood under the balance ring of the tub and tried pressing on the outer splines of the transmission using a car scissor jack. I pressed so hard that the cross piece cracked the balance ring and all the liquid spilled out. I finally took my cutter and split the remnants of the transmission shaft and chiseled them inward to collapse the metal splines away from the plastic splines of the inner tub. The tub finally came out and the remaining half of the transmission fell on the floor. I then put everything in a pile and ran over it with my forklift.
I like your videos, excellent angles for removing parts. However, like this one, you use (Part #W...........) to identity the machine. I am curious as to why you don't label the brand name, and the model # of the washing machine. Like I have an Amana HD LW4303W. Also I think it would be very helpful for the amateurs for you to identify the year model of the machines. I would suggest, e.g. Amana HD Washing Machine Model #LW4303W, 1993. Cross reference: Magtag, etc., etc. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, Frank! The Part # actually identifies the particular part that we are replacing in the video. We actually can't efficiently identify specific models that our videos apply to, because the list would be very long. We do list the brands that parts may be used on in the video descriptions. The tub seal in this video may be used on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears, and Kenmore washers. As you can see, trying to list every single model that this part is compatible with could result in a list that's hundreds of models long. This particular tub seal, for example, is compatible with 450 different washing machines, and for some parts the list is much longer.
However, if you follow the part link that we've provided (www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-seal-tub-w10324647-ap4567772.html), you can go to our "Cross Reference and Model Information" section, which does list all the brands and model numbers. As you can see, it scrolls and scrolls.
If you ever need help confirming that a part is the correct one for your model, or if you need specific help with the repair for your particular appliance, you can always give us a call. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
Frank J anyone commenting that has the same machine or it's branded differently or otherwise mention your full model number. Say splutch drive or direct drive and that will more or less I.D. THE machines and similarities. Lots of info and conflicting as well. Plus you may have to take it slow and therefore not damage anything as they do this for a living and we don't.
Wait a second the part you broke doesn't come with the kit right??? How much does that part that sits on the drive shaft cost?
It looks so easy but it's not the after I got the washer tub nut off the seal was so crowded and stuck on there wouldn't come off no matter what I pounded on it forever I don't know what the deal is just I can't even see the screws
If you need more help, we're happy to talk you through it. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
The only thing I see with these videos is everything is new and clean! Working on a 6 year old machine is a great deal different with rust and dirt in the machine.
If there is something we can help you with please let us know.
I have this exact washer. It won't go pass the sensing mode. What could be the problem?
stripped drive hub. My centennial machine uses plastic. I want this metal one used in this video.
Your machine won't go past the sense mode because it fails the initial spin when it's sensing. A new drive hub should fix your machine.
How likely is it that you will need to break that 40 dollar kit part?
Where kind of grease is it and where do you get it? I bought my seal at a local appliance parts store and grease did not come with it.
Im the same way what type of grease did u use? Im thinking about using ball joint grease because idk what else to use
what the hell tool is that? the one youre tapping on with the hammer?
Changing the gearcase... why is it necessary to remove the tub?
The inner tub can be heavier and can make it difficult to line up the gearcase. It just makes it easier.
How to move if no special tool
anyone notice that the spin basket has water in the rim?
I cleaned my maytag bravos out this past week and when I removes the drum I noticed water in the rim of the basket
The water in the spin basket helps to balance the basket during the spin. It is designed for that reason and is completely normal.
Theres no way my trans assembly is coming out thay easy today😂
It will take some work to get it out, but if we can assist you with anything please let us know!
No need to remove the tub cover
What do you mean?