That's one helluva job. The old school whirlpool/kenmore washers/ dryers were very simple, ran forever and were pretty easy to fix with inexpensive parts. Evidently the newer models are the exact opposite, don't last very long and the parts that go out are very expensive. Good job.
Great video. this saved me some time ordering the wrong parts. I have the same machine and would have ordered the regular shaft replacement kit before seeing this video. Mine took about 3 hours, quite a lot of time was spent cleaning (pressure sashing) the inner and outer basins. Absolutely disgusting when you pull them apart. Thanks again for the video.
After watching your very good video I decided to not repair mine as I don't like the way and cost to reseal and rebearing. I think its a very poor design. Most of the other Maytag washers have a much simpler design and the parts to reseal and rebearing are around 50 bucks with free delivery on Amazon. I spent a lot of money on this washer new and regret it. My old style Kenmore ran perfectly with only one repair of a new pump for 32 years. Hope I can find another like it. Thanks for sharing.
I have the same washer. Your video gives me confidence to tear her down now. Mine makes a god awful noise during spin cycle. I replaced it and have this one sitting in the garage. Will begin tear down hopefully this weekend. Thanks.
Nice video. Very informative. I have a Bravos XL that uses the same transmission. Thanks for stating it took 3-4 tries to get the drum lined up. I was fighting to get any threads visible for the spanner nut. I got it lined up but had to use a 2x4 under the motor to overcome the springs. BTW mine also had smooth splines on the lower 2 thirds of the drum. Keep up the good work.
Good video. These Maytag washers are the biggest pieces of garbage ever produced. I think I’ve now had to replace four major components in three years. One of them twice. Also, why they don’t make these parts exposed to water out of stainless to prevent rusting is mind blowing. They’d rather spend the money tricking consumers into thinking it’s a good product with their Made in the USA and 10 Year Warranty stickers.
I've had this same washer since 2017 and have only replaced the water valve (easy and cheap.) My wife washes 1-3 loads per day and she's very good at overloading the machine....lol. I've been quite happy with it. What four major parts have you replaced?
@@DirtyCoastCajun You got lucky. These things were all over Marketplace since new with problems. In fact, that’s where I bought one of them to replace some failed components.
@@DirtyCoastCajun Not so coincidentally, this fuxing piece of garbage just broke again. Now it won’t turn on again, so I’m sure it burned up another display board. Wish Maytag would burn to the ground.
@@DirtyCoastCajun Display panel twice, control board, water inlet valve, and transmission. Display board also failed on the dryer. When the display board just failed again on the washer, about six months after I just put a transmission in it, I got rid of them and replaced them with an old analog Whirlpool set. In addition to now being able to wash and dry clothes, we went from an average of 2 hours and 20 minutes to wash and dry a load to an hour and five minutes. I’ll never own a “fancy” washer or dryer again.
The knocking sounds like the stater motor bolt is a little loose? The "stainless steel" tub looked like it had alot of fabric softener residue. I am convinced that fabric softener is what causes alot of gunk buildup and seal failures. These are not the worst washers. There are plenty of Samsung,LG, and GE that take that place. People overload these washers that can not handle it. Speed Queen is the last of the tank built machines. 5-7 years is the average life of most box store appliances. Most of the time,the load of clothes we are washing costs more than the washer. 🤔
I didn't have the special tool, so I used my air chisel, with a nut splitter tip. Placed the tip into one of the side dimples and in seconds it split apart from the threaded center. As best as I can tell, the nut is either cast aluminum, or zinc die cast. Either way, it fell apart really easily. One tap opposite of each other and it fell off. I had the horrible experience of the axle grease being displaced by the water in the tub after I pulled the stripped agitator out, and the axle that drives the agitator. The axle grease was a brown green goop slick above the clothes floating on the top and smelled like untreated seweage.
I wish I had this done to my 1992 Maytag that was 26 years old. It was leaking transmission fluid and finally the tub seal gave way and water went all over the floor. It may have cost close to maybe $1,000 to fix but I think it would have been worth it.
I would have chosen to take advantage of the fact that everything was disassembled and I would have given the inner and metal tub, filter, etc. a very good clean.
As a repair guy I say hell no to these That transmission is like 120 to 150 Plus time energy and you still have a washer thats worn out. Buy a 80 90 series Kenmore direct drive and take this sheet to the dumps
What do you call the splined part at the very top of the transmission (where the agitator bolts on) called and is that part replaceable on it's own? I have a Kenmore Elite that's only about 2 years old and it just snapped. 😥
I imagine the name is agitator splines, or impeller splines. The snapped off part is not replaceable. It is built into the gearbox. These gearboxes were not built to be opened and fixed. The top and bottom casing is crimped together. However, you can still drill and grind away the crimped points to get inside. Then probably use nuts and bolts to put it back together. To save money, you can find a used gearbox from a used or dead washer and swap the entire gearbox out.
Whats the name of this particular Maytag you are working on??? Mine was so gunked up that I broke a 2x4 use a lot of penetration fluid but the 2nd 2x4 was popping, but It came out before it broke. That's the 1st one I've seen with the all In one motor and transmission shaft that you had to buy the hold transmission, but that's the way they money grab. There shouldn't be any transmission on a washing machine that can't be rebuild and a motor that you couldn't add brushes! Money grab!
Great video. Really appreciate the effort you put into it. Allowed for a quick (3 hour) repair today. I had to fight to get the transmission covered by the 10 year warranty. My extended warranty just expired - of course. All I had to pay for - was the gear pulley and the spanner wrench. Thank you!
I have this model but 3 yrs old. Making a grinding sound on the spin cycle. However won’t make any noise when I run it on a empty load. Any suggestions?
No leaks from deteriorated inner basket. New transmission/seal kit sealed up the outer basket, no leaks with dozens of washes on the new parts. Fingers crossed to get a few more years out of the new parts!
did yours throw any codes ? or not start up? mine starts sensing then switches to wash but doesnt do anything else and keeps switching back and forth between sensing and wash. then shuts down. code says F7E5
mine was throwing the same code, same symptoms as you described. A few weeks ago i flipped the washer over and removed the stator as he did and the shaft/spring/clutch spline assembly was rusted and bound up. i cleaned it up the best i could and i got the clutch to slide freely on the shaft. that was about 3 weeks ago. It's since started acting up again. I'm now going to replace the gearbox as he did. So if you clean it up you might buy yourself some time but ultimately you'll need to replace these parts.
Mine did not, it appeared to be a mostly empty metal clam shell, welded together. I used an angle grinder to cut open a small hole to view inside, no oil came out.
I've got mine tore down right now for a drain pump. I noticed when I move the tub around I can hear water sloshing around ,but no water pours out of it. Did you hear anything similar?
Yes, the outer tub holds a bit of water in the drain reservoir that doesn't seem to fully drain. You can see it in my tub around 15 min mark of video for reference. When i had both inner and outer tubs pulled out, i could see the reservoir and cleaned the screen/filter while i was there for good measure.
Would be a life saver if someone could share next steps for Maytag MVWB766FW1 off balance for any size load but empty. Replaced suspension rods. Leveled front to back side to side. Checked washer plate and tower for soundnesses which was nice and tight. Nothing in between drum and linear. Performs wash cycle and initial low speed spin to drain tub but as soon as it picks up from there bang bang bang off balance and walks. At a loss!? 🤷
I'm curious as to how old your machine is and how much use it gets? ( 2 years and you're single or 8 years and have a family of 8) The machine seems a bit weathered and I'm debating fixing my daughter's or replacing.
I've had it about 4 years. Family of 5, the thing runs about 4 loads a day, everyday. Have also had to replace the drain pump. So far, the cost of a few replacement pieces have been cheaper than the cost of new washer.
That's one helluva job. The old school whirlpool/kenmore washers/ dryers were very simple, ran forever and were pretty easy to fix with inexpensive parts. Evidently the newer models are the exact opposite, don't last very long and the parts that go out are very expensive. Good job.
Designed obsolescence. Cheaper to buy a new one than have it repaired. Heck, it's even more expensive to DiY repair than to buy new.
I used the flat end of my 6 foot post hole digging bar to pound the shaft of the transmission through the bottom of the tub. Worked like magic!
Great video. this saved me some time ordering the wrong parts. I have the same machine and would have ordered the regular shaft replacement kit before seeing this video. Mine took about 3 hours, quite a lot of time was spent cleaning (pressure sashing) the inner and outer basins. Absolutely disgusting when you pull them apart. Thanks again for the video.
After watching your very good video I decided to not repair mine as I don't like the way and cost to reseal and rebearing. I think its a very poor design. Most of the other Maytag washers have a much simpler design and the parts to reseal and rebearing are around 50 bucks with free delivery on Amazon. I spent a lot of money on this washer new and regret it. My old style Kenmore ran perfectly with only one repair of a new pump for 32 years. Hope I can find another like it. Thanks for sharing.
Was looking for a teardown video, This was perfect. Thank you
I have the same washer. Your video gives me confidence to tear her down now. Mine makes a god awful noise during spin cycle. I replaced it and have this one sitting in the garage. Will begin tear down hopefully this weekend. Thanks.
Very brave repair!!! I have the same washer...but luckily a way less scary repair for now...
Nice video. Very informative. I have a Bravos XL that uses the same transmission. Thanks for stating it took 3-4 tries to get the drum lined up. I was fighting to get any threads visible for the spanner nut. I got it lined up but had to use a 2x4 under the motor to overcome the springs. BTW mine also had smooth splines on the lower 2 thirds of the drum. Keep up the good work.
Good video. These Maytag washers are the biggest pieces of garbage ever produced. I think I’ve now had to replace four major components in three years. One of them twice. Also, why they don’t make these parts exposed to water out of stainless to prevent rusting is mind blowing. They’d rather spend the money tricking consumers into thinking it’s a good product with their Made in the USA and 10 Year Warranty stickers.
I've had this same washer since 2017 and have only replaced the water valve (easy and cheap.) My wife washes 1-3 loads per day and she's very good at overloading the machine....lol. I've been quite happy with it. What four major parts have you replaced?
@@DirtyCoastCajun You got lucky. These things were all over Marketplace since new with problems. In fact, that’s where I bought one of them to replace some failed components.
@@DirtyCoastCajun Not so coincidentally, this fuxing piece of garbage just broke again. Now it won’t turn on again, so I’m sure it burned up another display board. Wish Maytag would burn to the ground.
@@saleenmav so, what components failed?
@@DirtyCoastCajun Display panel twice, control board, water inlet valve, and transmission. Display board also failed on the dryer. When the display board just failed again on the washer, about six months after I just put a transmission in it, I got rid of them and replaced them with an old analog Whirlpool set.
In addition to now being able to wash and dry clothes, we went from an average of 2 hours and 20 minutes to wash and dry a load to an hour and five minutes. I’ll never own a “fancy” washer or dryer again.
The knocking sounds like the stater motor bolt is a little loose? The "stainless steel" tub looked like it had alot of fabric softener residue. I am convinced that fabric softener is what causes alot of gunk buildup and seal failures. These are not the worst washers. There are plenty of Samsung,LG, and GE that take that place. People overload these washers that can not handle it. Speed Queen is the last of the tank built machines. 5-7 years is the average life of most box store appliances. Most of the time,the load of clothes we are washing costs more than the washer. 🤔
I didn't have the special tool, so I used my air chisel, with a nut splitter tip. Placed the tip into one of the side dimples and in seconds it split apart from the threaded center. As best as I can tell, the nut is either cast aluminum, or zinc die cast. Either way, it fell apart really easily. One tap opposite of each other and it fell off. I had the horrible experience of the axle grease being displaced by the water in the tub after I pulled the stripped agitator out, and the axle that drives the agitator. The axle grease was a brown green goop slick above the clothes floating on the top and smelled like untreated seweage.
So the transmission drive is supposed to have grease inside? I want to add grease to mine.
I wish I had this done to my 1992 Maytag that was 26 years old. It was leaking transmission fluid and finally the tub seal gave way and water went all over the floor. It may have cost close to maybe $1,000 to fix but I think it would have been worth it.
Thanks for making the video, very helpful!
I would have chosen to take advantage of the fact that everything was disassembled and I would have given the inner and metal tub, filter, etc. a very good clean.
As a repair guy I say hell no to these
That transmission is like 120 to 150
Plus time energy and you still have a washer thats worn out.
Buy a 80 90 series Kenmore direct drive and take this sheet to the dumps
Where did you get the part at. I have the same exact washer but mine squeals while agitating. I’m assuming it has to be the bearing.
I think I'll keep my old whirlpool from the early 90's.
What do you call the splined part at the very top of the transmission (where the agitator bolts on) called and is that part replaceable on it's own? I have a Kenmore Elite that's only about 2 years old and it just snapped. 😥
I imagine the name is agitator splines, or impeller splines. The snapped off part is not replaceable. It is built into the gearbox. These gearboxes were not built to be opened and fixed. The top and bottom casing is crimped together. However, you can still drill and grind away the crimped points to get inside. Then probably use nuts and bolts to put it back together. To save money, you can find a used gearbox from a used or dead washer and swap the entire gearbox out.
Whats the name of this particular Maytag you are working on??? Mine was so gunked up that I broke a 2x4 use a lot of penetration fluid but the 2nd 2x4 was popping, but It came out before it broke. That's the 1st one I've seen with the all
In one motor and transmission shaft that you had to buy the hold transmission, but that's the way they money grab. There shouldn't be any transmission on a washing machine that can't be rebuild and a motor that you couldn't add brushes! Money grab!
I will never buy another Maytag washer mine only lasted 3 years biggest POS ever.
Has anyone tore one of these gearcases down before and tried to replace the bearing?
How much was the transmission
Great video. Really appreciate the effort you put into it. Allowed for a quick (3 hour) repair today. I had to fight to get the transmission covered by the 10 year warranty. My extended warranty just expired - of course. All I had to pay for - was the gear pulley and the spanner wrench. Thank you!
How did you get it covered? They are telling me that it just coveres the motor and the basket and not the transmisson
Having same issue my unit is 4 years old. How you get it covered they only want to cover motor and drum
I have this model but 3 yrs old. Making a grinding sound on the spin cycle. However won’t make any noise when I run it on a empty load. Any suggestions?
How did you get the washer basket out? We’ve been trying to figure out how to get it out and I can’t find any info on how to get it out.
If i recall, had to take top of washer off, unclip 6 clips around top of tub, then lift out.
Were you able to remove the inner basket? I am facing the same issue. I removed the spanner nut, but the basket won't budge.
Omg I got the same thing going on now all the videos show bearings and my model has the same as this one the whole gear thing had to buy
Any notes on why the washer now clanks during aggitation with the new transmission? Tnx.
As update: new transmission has been running good, 4 loads a day average, 7 days a week, no issues!
Thanks for the video!
Does this machine have a drive motor transmission?
Nice video, thanks! Facing the same issue with the bottom of the basket/ inner drum being deteriorated. Are you getting any leaks there?
No leaks from deteriorated inner basket. New transmission/seal kit sealed up the outer basket, no leaks with dozens of washes on the new parts. Fingers crossed to get a few more years out of the new parts!
did yours throw any codes ? or not start up? mine starts sensing then switches to wash but doesnt do anything else and keeps switching back and forth between sensing and wash. then shuts down. code says F7E5
I did not have any error codes, just a steady stream of water from under the washer across the floor to the drain.
mine was throwing the same code, same symptoms as you described. A few weeks ago i flipped the washer over and removed the stator as he did and the shaft/spring/clutch spline assembly was rusted and bound up. i cleaned it up the best i could and i got the clutch to slide freely on the shaft. that was about 3 weeks ago. It's since started acting up again. I'm now going to replace the gearbox as he did. So if you clean it up you might buy yourself some time but ultimately you'll need to replace these parts.
Are the O-rings/seals available for purchase for this gearbox or similar?
I looked for replacement seals and could not find just the seals, only the entire unit with new seals already installed.
Does the type of gearbox on this washer contain grease? Or some type of oil?
Mine did not, it appeared to be a mostly empty metal clam shell, welded together. I used an angle grinder to cut open a small hole to view inside, no oil came out.
Can you make a video of the full cycle with drain and spin
Are you interested in watching the underside of the washer with the motor and pump or the inside basket where clothes go?
@@ShowMeTheHoneyBlog basket where the clothes go because I like to hum the sound of the drain and spin cycle
I've got mine tore down right now for a drain pump. I noticed when I move the tub around I can hear water sloshing around ,but no water pours out of it. Did you hear anything similar?
Yes, the outer tub holds a bit of water in the drain reservoir that doesn't seem to fully drain. You can see it in my tub around 15 min mark of video for reference. When i had both inner and outer tubs pulled out, i could see the reservoir and cleaned the screen/filter while i was there for good measure.
Thank you!
The plastic on top of the basket is a balance ring with liquid in it
Would be a life saver if someone could share next steps for Maytag MVWB766FW1 off balance for any size load but empty.
Replaced suspension rods. Leveled front to back side to side. Checked washer plate and tower for soundnesses which was nice and tight. Nothing in between drum and linear. Performs wash cycle and initial low speed spin to drain tub but as soon as it picks up from there bang bang bang off balance and walks.
At a loss!? 🤷
bad bearings in the gearcase will show up as an off balance issue as well
Pretty good video! ❤
I'm curious as to how old your machine is and how much use it gets? ( 2 years and you're single or 8 years and have a family of 8) The machine seems a bit weathered and I'm debating fixing my daughter's or replacing.
I've had it about 4 years. Family of 5, the thing runs about 4 loads a day, everyday.
Have also had to replace the drain pump.
So far, the cost of a few replacement pieces have been cheaper than the cost of new washer.
That rotational knock will damage your new replacement parts in a short time
the m etal I think is alumunum from worn spline shavings just a guess
nice job.
Thank you
You video does not show how you remove the basket
Any issues with leaking without adding the silicone?
no silicone was needed, and several dozen washes later, no leaks. The deteriorated part of the hub is not a sealing surface (thankfully!).
I didnt use silicone and ive no leaks.
19:12
Complete joke.I remember when wash machines would last twenty years crazy
Biggest pile of junk ever I've been working on Maytags for 30 years and this is the worst