I took a belay class today and was told just a slightly different belay technique that they called the "TBUS" (Take, Brake, Under, Slide). They had us taking the slack like you did in the first step of your one-handed belay technique, but then had us brake with just our brake hand, and then move our other (non-dominant) hand over and then under our brake hand on the brake rope (so both hands are now on the brake rope in the brake position), then slide your brake hand up close to the belay device, and then your non brake hand goes back up to the climbing side of the rope to repeat the process. It was definitely a learning curve for myself.
This is also the way that I teach it and I would say that allowing for the slide of the brake hand under the brake plane (below the line of the belay device) is an added measure of safety. This is also known as PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide)
@@trickardsPC Yep, exactly what I just learned in my class: PBUS. In the vid, some of the options looked more vulnerable in the sense that the ropes seem to be in 'parallel' too long (like the pull up method he was showing with two hands). You need to get out of parallel ropes as quickly as possible as that's the danger zone with no breaking -- at least that's what we were explained and makes sense.
@@climbon3157 You are correct, it is dangerous to slide your brake hand when not in the brake position. The only time (THE ONLY TIME) your brake hand should be above your belay device (Figure 8, ATC, GriGri or otherwise) is the split second when you are taking slack, or pulling, and should immediately be returned to the brake position before you slide.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
That belaying is worrying... the braking strand should never be held over the belay plate for any longer than a split second. If you're taking in slack like that and they fall unexpectedly, the rope is going to be moving so fast you won't be able to re-establish your grip on the rope. Best hope your climbing walls are very short and your floor is well padded. Also, figure 8s do sometimes eat their tails in a fall. Use a simple double overhand/fishermans bend as a stopper. Also... not a safety concern as such, but your carabiner is upside down. Narrow part is for the belay loop, wider end has more space to accommodate the rope and cable etc. A lot of newer belay biners have hooks on the gate to keep the belay loop where should be and stop the biners rotating into that position or cross loading.
double overhand/fisherman’s is completely unnecessary. if the tail of the figure eight is at least twice the length of the figure eight itself, you do not have to worry about the tail. the reason some gyms require the fisherman’s is only to ensure the tail is actually long enough.
Some of this information is valid, however a few of these methods, while can be safe when trained, can make bad habits, especially with new climbers. For example, the double hand method. This method,while can be safe when trained and practised enough in using it, can lead to people sliding both hands up at the same time, meaning for a second, there will be no hand on the break rope. Another, is the reverse hand pinch method, where a common mistake is to pinch the rope with the bottom hand, meaning that you aren't able to slide down your other hand. This method leads to a lot of time with the break rope not locked off, so if the climber falls while you're trying to sort out your hands, hes hitting the deck. If there is a very common problem with a method, then why ever use it? instead teach a much safer method, where the majority of the time is spent locked off. One example is one that is never covered in the video. One example is the Pull-Lock-switch-slide method, or the V-Knee-1,2,3 method. These methods of belaying allow the hands to be reset, while locked off. First, take in the slack with one hand on the break rope and the other on the live rope, lock off and then place both hands on the break rope, then slide your lower and up until it is where it was to begin with (on the break rope) and then reset your other hand to where it is on the live rope. This simple method allows you to switch hands while locked off, limiting the time you spend with the climber not safe.
This is the method I use as well, and I feel like it is the best method to help belayers learn so that they can easily transition to belaying someone on a lead, because the rope is always in a breaker position. The methods shown on this video are only good for top roping, and once in those habits, it will be difficult to transition to something different. The method described here is really easy to learn, and once learned, you never really have to learn a different method.
don't use slip slap slide. its for a munter. do have the hand in a position of power even though he said you could. but thanks for showing how you do it.
It's in reference to the method that the harness uses to fasten the wearer in. You pull the fastener through two hoops (like a belt) except you double back through one of the hoops to fasten it in. It's common in all sorts of belts for various things, including top roping. I'd just search the phrase "double back belt" on Google for a better visual.
nnatalietaa was a terrible video with good intentions. This is most definitely not how to belay. This technique went out with the dinosaurs. Please don’t follow this practice as it is inherently dangerous.
I wish you had taught this properly. Your technique is antiquated and should not be encouraged. I appreciate your intentions were genuine however as many people have pointed out to you the flaws in your advice. It concerns me that you are teaching inherent bad practices given the amount of new climbers that enter gyms. With respect sir, bring your skills into the new millennium
Where did those belay techniques come from? Never seen anybody belaying like that. Just keep the right hand with the rope on your side , slide it to the device without releasing the rope , grab and pull slack. Keep the left hand above the device to give slack. Why make it more complicated than it should be?
Mark, I haven't been to the gym in quite some time. I wonder if the belay class includes a simulated fall to reinforce the need to focus on keeping positive control of the tail on the brake hand? As you know, and you might remember from when you first started off, feeling that first fall really kicks the belayer into using a proper technique.
Question: regarding communication, I understand that these are the common phrases that are taught but in practice I rarely hear them. They feel almost robotic. How flexible are most gyms on the verbiage?
Good question! Those are the standard commands. So that’s what must be taught and I have to say that that is what you should do. In practice, between two partners who know each other well, some version of a buddy check before leaving the ground is - yes absolutely - something even (especially) the most experienced partners never stop practicing.
Another huge problem is that he was teaching how to belay, while the climber is on the wall. This is just absolutely stupid idea. He was spending a huge amount of time not locked off, and i his climber were to take a fall while he is explaining, he'd hit the floor. Always teach the method with the climber on the floor.
My left ear really enjoyed this
my right ear fell asleep from the white noise.
Sorry sir. We weren’t too high tech then
@@gregorycarnielutube . ... .d.... m
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I only had my right ear in and was thinking they posted this video with no noise haha I was so confused until I read this comment
I took a belay class today and was told just a slightly different belay technique that they called the "TBUS" (Take, Brake, Under, Slide). They had us taking the slack like you did in the first step of your one-handed belay technique, but then had us brake with just our brake hand, and then move our other (non-dominant) hand over and then under our brake hand on the brake rope (so both hands are now on the brake rope in the brake position), then slide your brake hand up close to the belay device, and then your non brake hand goes back up to the climbing side of the rope to repeat the process. It was definitely a learning curve for myself.
This is also the way that I teach it and I would say that allowing for the slide of the brake hand under the brake plane (below the line of the belay device) is an added measure of safety. This is also known as PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide)
@@trickardsPC Yep, exactly what I just learned in my class: PBUS. In the vid, some of the options looked more vulnerable in the sense that the ropes seem to be in 'parallel' too long (like the pull up method he was showing with two hands). You need to get out of parallel ropes as quickly as possible as that's the danger zone with no breaking -- at least that's what we were explained and makes sense.
I was wondering why anyone would slide their brake hand while not braked down. Seems so dangerous to me. I am a beginner.
@@climbon3157 You are correct, it is dangerous to slide your brake hand when not in the brake position. The only time (THE ONLY TIME) your brake hand should be above your belay device (Figure 8, ATC, GriGri or otherwise) is the split second when you are taking slack, or pulling, and should immediately be returned to the brake position before you slide.
“Letting Go is bad. Sad face, dead.” LOL
I'm taking my belay test today and this video was awesome assurance! Really educational and straight to the point.
really clear. just the right level of serious and fun.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
Awesome 👊🏽
Thank you so much
That belaying is worrying... the braking strand should never be held over the belay plate for any longer than a split second.
If you're taking in slack like that and they fall unexpectedly, the rope is going to be moving so fast you won't be able to re-establish your grip on the rope.
Best hope your climbing walls are very short and your floor is well padded.
Also, figure 8s do sometimes eat their tails in a fall. Use a simple double overhand/fishermans bend as a stopper.
Also... not a safety concern as such, but your carabiner is upside down. Narrow part is for the belay loop, wider end has more space to accommodate the rope and cable etc. A lot of newer belay biners have hooks on the gate to keep the belay loop where should be and stop the biners rotating into that position or cross loading.
Yep was watching and got horrified by this guy actually showing worst belaying technique I have ever seen. It is slow, complicated and dangerous!
double overhand/fisherman’s is completely unnecessary. if the tail of the figure eight is at least twice the length of the figure eight itself, you do not have to worry about the tail. the reason some gyms require the fisherman’s is only to ensure the tail is actually long enough.
took my belay test yesterday totally blanked put on all of this lmaoooo
excellent Belay Lesson,
Thank you so much
The guy on climb looks like he absolutely doesn't want to be there...
Great video from start to finish :)
Ive never seen anyone move their hand on the brake side of the rope when it’s above the belay device. Seems dangerous to me.
Some of this information is valid, however a few of these methods, while can be safe when trained, can make bad habits, especially with new climbers.
For example, the double hand method. This method,while can be safe when trained and practised enough in using it, can lead to people sliding both hands up at the same time, meaning for a second, there will be no hand on the break rope. Another, is the reverse hand pinch method, where a common mistake is to pinch the rope with the bottom hand, meaning that you aren't able to slide down your other hand. This method leads to a lot of time with the break rope not locked off, so if the climber falls while you're trying to sort out your hands, hes hitting the deck. If there is a very common problem with a method, then why ever use it? instead teach a much safer method, where the majority of the time is spent locked off. One example is one that is never covered in the video.
One example is the Pull-Lock-switch-slide method, or the V-Knee-1,2,3 method.
These methods of belaying allow the hands to be reset, while locked off.
First, take in the slack with one hand on the break rope and the other on the live rope, lock off and then place both hands on the break rope, then slide your lower and up until it is where it was to begin with (on the break rope) and then reset your other hand to where it is on the live rope.
This simple method allows you to switch hands while locked off, limiting the time you spend with the climber not safe.
Lolz this video is over rated meh
580 likes and only 55 dislikes
We really needed someone to say something
This is the method I use as well, and I feel like it is the best method to help belayers learn so that they can easily transition to belaying someone on a lead, because the rope is always in a breaker position. The methods shown on this video are only good for top roping, and once in those habits, it will be difficult to transition to something different. The method described here is really easy to learn, and once learned, you never really have to learn a different method.
This is the method I was taught and just passed belay test with at Movement Gym. This video is wild… would not recommend lol
don't use slip slap slide. its for a munter. do have the hand in a position of power even though he said you could. but thanks for showing how you do it.
You don't explain what "double-backed" actually means..
He doesn't know
It's in reference to the method that the harness uses to fasten the wearer in. You pull the fastener through two hoops (like a belt) except you double back through one of the hoops to fasten it in. It's common in all sorts of belts for various things, including top roping. I'd just search the phrase "double back belt" on Google for a better visual.
Great video! The guy on the right looks like he wanted to yawn a few times lol
nnatalietaa was a terrible video with good intentions. This is most definitely not how to belay. This technique went out with the dinosaurs. Please don’t follow this practice as it is inherently dangerous.
Very helpful. Ty
Love to hear that. Thank YOU
I wish I hadn't been wearing the belt (for the pants). Might make it look to a beginner like it's mandatory equipment! LOL!
I wish you had taught this properly. Your technique is antiquated and should not be encouraged. I appreciate your intentions were genuine however as many people have pointed out to you the flaws in your advice. It concerns me that you are teaching inherent bad practices given the amount of new climbers that enter gyms. With respect sir, bring your skills into the new millennium
Where did those belay techniques come from? Never seen anybody belaying like that. Just keep the right hand with the rope on your side , slide it to the device without releasing the rope , grab and pull slack. Keep the left hand above the device to give slack. Why make it more complicated than it should be?
Next video! Maybe I'll be able to hear what the next guy says!
The basket of belay locking carabiner should be forward and the crotch of the locking carabiner should be back at the belay loop!
Just wondering, does that really matter as long as it isn't flopping around the biner still?
Mark, I haven't been to the gym in quite some time. I wonder if the belay class includes a simulated fall to reinforce the need to focus on keeping positive control of the tail on the brake hand? As you know, and you might remember from when you first started off, feeling that first fall really kicks the belayer into using a proper technique.
Oh yes for sure
Great video! Very informative and clearly explained.
Great video! Thank you for making this!
Very helpful video!
Question: regarding communication, I understand that these are the common phrases that are taught but in practice I rarely hear them. They feel almost robotic. How flexible are most gyms on the verbiage?
Good question! Those are the standard commands. So that’s what must be taught and I have to say that that is what you should do. In practice, between two partners who know each other well, some version of a buddy check before leaving the ground is - yes absolutely - something even (especially) the most experienced partners never stop practicing.
Sorry for the typos. Can’t edit and I was voice texting
Solid! Nice work and thanks
What are these belay methods wtf. Use pbus 😂😂
Another huge problem is that he was teaching how to belay, while the climber is on the wall. This is just absolutely stupid idea. He was spending a huge amount of time not locked off, and i his climber were to take a fall while he is explaining, he'd hit the floor.
Always teach the method with the climber on the floor.
Now you're just bullying
That's a deceiving pocket flare
?? :-)
Mixing HMS/Munter and tube belaying is dangerous! Instructors who do so shouldn‘t be allowed to upload clips to UA-cam
bowline is better tho
This didn't really Answer my questions>………………….
cromo nem mostras como se faz o nó witsel