AAC Universal Belay Standard: Lead Belaying
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Lead belaying is more complicated that just delivering slack. In this video, the AAC applies the fundamental principles of belay to lead belaying, and divides lead belaying into 5 skill blocks:
1. Set-up
2. Managing slack
3. Compensating
4. Catching falls
5. Supporting the leader
Part 1: • AAC Universal Belay St...
Part 3 Details Matter: • AAC Universal Belay St...
I am having all my staff at my climbing gym watch it, to better help them teach. Well done, AAC.
Thank you, Dean!
Wow, I wish more instructional climbing videos were this good.
Thanks, Andrew!
Thanks!
I teach belaying at a local gym. Glad to not see the "always provide a soft catch" dogma. I teach what I call a " situational catch" - if safe to do so, provide a soft catch. But if the climber will impact a ledge or obstacle, stop them immediately. Same as what AAC is teaching.
Another concept I teach is provide a "AA" rated belay - attentive and anticipative. Don't get distracted, and anticipate when the leader needs slack to clip, possible fall, etc.
Thanks for sharing. What i just missed here is the helmets.
Nice to see a good video at Earth Treks in Golden.
Yes!! That is a great Gym!
Very, very good video! Thanks for your efforts in making it and putting in out there!!
Thank you! We're so glad you enjoyed it.
Very nice video! Keep em up!
The sexual tension between John and Chelsea 2:31.
Haven’t got my lead belay certification yet and are studying this again. This comment get’s me again! 😂😂😂
Yup, they want to bang the brains out of each other, expressions say it all.
@Tammy Gueterman very aptly observed! Lol!
what if they were siblings you sick ****
@@jimandrews4261 even hotter.
The best description I have heard for providing a soft catch: "ride the
belay." None of that "give a small hop up and into the wall' nonsense.
Great video, although I believe that there is a mistake in the beginning when the narrator says assisted belay device. I believe he means assisted braking device.
Great Instruction Video! Thanks :) Tom
Very helpful video!
Also shot in my home gym, Earth Treks Golden! Great facility.
Thanks for watching, Will! We love ET, Golden!
❤️ ET Golden
Great video dude
I'm hoping that in next articles questions for trad and alpine climbing will be addressed including
1) anchoring the belayer: Is there no case to be made for anchoring the belayer in sport climbing?
and
2) that "natural strength" in regard to right or left hand braking will be engaged in light of route constraints where it pays to have mastered belaying with either hand braking. --signed 'old school'
Thanks for the feedback, Alan!
Best belay video ive seen so far
Thank you Zaim! We're glad you enjoyed it.
Nothing about spotting until the climber is in the first clip?
Def could have been mentioned. On a gym setting though might be better to let climber hit the nice padded floor than to try and catch them.
I appreciate that intro music! Jammin!
We contracted the talented Pat Dimitri for the music for this video.
2:20 - "Do the knots look good?" as a figure-8 with crossed strands is shown 😎😎
100% this, the UK is fucking awful for it, everyone ties with crossed strands and it's so very annoying
2:36 - Belay is not on because the climber hasn't actually reached the first anchor.
super true
I expected AAC to have caught that... disappointing...
No, the belay is on and ready to be used. The climber and belayer are connected to the rope, the method of belaying has been prepared, and the belayer's attention is to the rope & climber. Now the system is ready to arrest the climber whether or not there is the opportunity to fall.
Imagine if this party was on a ledge instead of on the floor. After the climber and belayer do a belay check, the climber stumbles and falls off of the ledge. The rope goes tight, and the belayer's attention to the system may catch the fall.
4:25 she walks her brake hand up the rope...i did the same thing and got denied a lead belay certification at a gym
EBR place my free hand under my brake hand on the rope, then slide my brake hand up the rope towards the ATC then put my free hand back on the rope above the ATC to continue to control slack
i noticed this too!
ive come into habit of when im giving out slack, i slide my hand down the brake side (not up like the video) and when im taking in slack i use my freehand to hold the brake side while sliding my hand up the rope. Using a Grigri fyi.
I believe it is now officially in the Petzl manuel.
This is how it was taught to me during the lessons I took in gym where I climb. As long as you dont open your hand when you are walking it up the rope... She also does it slightly to the side which is also the way I was taught to do it when I was little but when I got my certificate my instructor told me there is no need to keep your hand to the side you can just do it in front.. He told me it's more logical to do it this way for when you want to go on and learn lead climbing (I was learning the simple basics of belaying) so it doesn't surprise me to her doing it in this way. Feels bad they failed you for no reason..
I learned the PBUS method. It stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. The brake hand pulls in slack and brakes the device. The non-braking hand then goes under the brake hand, and while holding with the non-braking hand the brake hand slides up. This way the brake end of the rope is always locked off with a tight grip.
If the brake hand loosens it’s grip to cycle up the rope with no backup and the leader falls, the reaction time to tighten the grip back up can allow for rope to flow through the brake hand. At best this will cause an unnecessarily long fall, at worst it can cause rope burn injury on the brake hand and even an uncontrolled descent. I’ve heard of people getting rope burned, then the force of the grip on a moving rope pulled their hand into the ATC which then causes them to let go involuntary from the pain
Why isn’t there a mention of spotting before the first clip is on?
Also noticed that in US lead climbing competition belayers don’t spot but in IFSC, the belayer do spotting. Is there a different standard on safety?
Thank you for the informative video, but that acting was like a climbing porno
Haha
Next time, they should have John deliver a pizza.
big and possibly fatal (if the climber falls) mistake around the 4 minute mark. did u spot it?
Is this at Earth Treks in Golden?
Yes!
Its cool that Wilford Brimley is teaching belay techniques.
Good video except the double overhand stopper knot is tied incorrectly. Why do so many climbers tie this knot incorrectly?
Btw, that stopper knot is to close the system to prevent any chance of a too short rope slipping through the belay device. A good habit to learn, esp if you ever start climbing outside.
And when you dont feed your leader enough rope thats called short roping and can actually pull a leader off the wall/rock.
for paying out slack fast with the grigri, Petzl tells you explicitly not to hold down the cam as in a leader fall, it could cause the cam to fail. rather, you should place your thumb on the back of the handle
neither should you break hand need to rise above the friction plate/ATC when paying slack as you're taking the device out of break unnecessarily
This was filmed at my gym lol
Me too
Me too
Which gym??
At ua-cam.com/video/Ky4DMg74lR4/v-deo.html Hum they are not "on belay" until the first quickdraw is clipped also has mentioned before spotting is absent.
False.
That was a bad display of belaying on the girls part she let go of the brake rope several times
But trust me on the sunscreen
Tell that girl she needs to stop walking her hand up the break line and not to let go! She’s going to break someone’s legs.
It's okay to don that. As long as the hand is still on the rope, the climber will be caught.
4:34 DO NOT bite the rope when preparing to clip! Bad example for an instruction video!
When you fall while the rope is in your mouth it will easily pull out several teeth you may still have preferred to keep.
All the pros do it though... And all the advanced climbers, and intermediate climbers and beginners and so on and so on.
has this ever actually happened, though?
Obviously the last doesn't know what she's doing
Smh 😡 that dumb it... I was fell as broke rope!
2:19 Seriously, no stopper knot on the climber?!?! And that’s not a problem? 😨
Steph Chad Technically a rope isn’t “necessary” but I’d still much rather have one if it’s all the same to you. As far as a stopper knot is concerned, I don’t understand why anyone would choose not to have one as it’s not exactly something of too much trouble to add it in
Nick Blakehill while lead climbing, a stopper knot has a tendency to get in the way while clipping.
I personally choose not to use one. I have several climbing partners who choose to use a stopper knot, and that is their personal decision based upon what they feel comfortable with.
When I make that decision, I am acknowledging that, should my knot be tied incorrectly, there will be nothing backing it up. It is as calculated risk, as is everything in climbing. This is why I always make sure to have my climbing partner check my knot before I climb.
Whether you choose to use a stopper or not is your decision. I’m not telling you not to use one if that is what makes your comfortable. I was simply stating that it is not mandatory.
This is the same as my decision not to tie in with a bowline knot because I am not comfortable with it. It is my decision.
As for climbing without a rope, that is also a personal choice that people make based on what they are comfortable with.
If you are more comfortable with a stopper, tie a stopper.
The tail is short enough that a stopper knot isn’t required. As long as the figure 8 is tied close to the harness and the tail is short (6 inches) there is no need for a stopper knot.
Unnecessary. Stopper knots add no safety to a proper figure of 8. Stop spreading BS.
There is never a need for a stopper knot with a retraced figure 8