We are looking at doing our own cabinets, going through a remodle from Tree damage. Guess the best way to learn is to Dive in.. Love the video just became a subscriber as well..👍
If high spot is extreme in a corner or close to wall and slopes out, can cut away lower back edge of starter cabinet to scribe cabinet to floor to lessen high shims on low areas when leveling. 👍
Is the rear bottom of the cabinets floating off the floor essentially? I notice shims on the front and rear upper but that's it. The reason I ask is that I have really uneven floors...
what about the check measurements ? What is the step by step to dont miss informations and have everything perfect to install ? I never faound something about this on internet. Thank you !
So I see how to draw a line from the floor and ceiling bump outs but how do you draw a line on the floor for the wall bump outs and I assume you base it off the larger bump out? And doesn’t the wall bump outs push the cabinets out and may cause a tight fit between two opposing walls? Isn’t it best to level the wall?
I always attach each run of base cabinets together before installing against the wall. To do this, lay a piece of 3/4" plywood (straight) on the floor. Place cabinets upside down on the plywood (the flat plywood will match them perfectly), clamp them, then screw the frames together. use spacers on the back of the cabinets (assuming you are installing face frame cabinets), and screw the backs together. Now you can just turn the whole row right side up and slide them into place. Level them up against the wall, using shims where necessary to fill voids on the floor and the wall. You can do the same for wall cabinets, except you attached right side up to start with on the plywood, before lifting them up to the wall. No cabinet installer these days would work without a line laser. A great system is to use the EZ-Level cabinet levelers for base cabinets. They work great and for those of us who measure by the 32nd of an inch, you an adjust your cabinets to as near perfect as you can get. This eliminates problems when installing your counters by uneven cabinets.
Very short and informative...two questions, what if you replace the drywall and what if you install floors all the way to the wall...will that solve High and low areas on the floors? Also on the walls?
If you install a screed bed under your tile you can get a relatively flat floor. If you put a string line on your studs and correct the humps then put drywall on you could have a flatter wall. All in all, when building with Spruce Pine Fir soft dimensional lumber, you will always have movement in some form or another. A craftsman is able to maneuver around to create something that looks good to the eye.
I have never see any do a video about this ever. These are issues you figure out with experience. Now to answer your question. The laser light is a must because it helps you find your highest spot on the floor and your lowest point on the ceiling. You set your upper cabinet on the lowest point on the ceiling and the base cabinet on the highest spot on the floor. I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Yes. Measure from the high point, draw your reference line and then shim up all the cabinets that are not on the hump. This only has to be done for each run of countertop that connects. If you have an island it may be nice to match exact elevation, but you probably won't notice a small difference.
Great video! I’ve watched many and this is by far the best. The only question I still have is what to do with a large ceiling slope. My ceiling slopes 3/4” in 115” distance. I’m installing crown molding all the way to the ceiling so at the low end it will touch but at the high end I’ll have 3/4” gap. My thought was to attach a strip of wood, behind the crown molding, to the ceiling that’s the same color so the gap is not so obvious. Is there anything else I can do about this? Thank you!
Too heavy to lift up there and u risk breaking the faces. U can assemble them first then disassemble them and put them up and then they will go right back where you had them assembled because of the screw holes lining back up. But the way he did it here is faster.
no question about your skills, but i see this time after time. why in the hell don't people paint the walls before hanging cabinets? i painted new construction for several years and man it pissed me off when the cabinet guys put the cabinets up before we painted. it makes the work ten times harder and it looks tons better when you paint before installation... not judging your work just questioning the reason for people hanging on bare drywall..
It’s usually gets political at a job site all the time people pressuring people working on top of each other usually the superintendents are the problem they want everything done ASAP
Why have to be painted if you don’t see it after cabinets are installed and between bottom and top cabinets you have to do backsplash even if you paint when you install the cabinets you will scratch the walls
Main two reasons from a retailer stand point when we do complete projects in kitchen where we need to manage floors, electrical, plumbing, cabinets, granite backsplash, and finally painters..first reason is customer wants shit done cheaper....so if I tell him/her I really need to replace the wall behind the cabinets because most likely it’s old which will add the texture and paint cost to a wall that you really not going to see they will refuse the additional cost in 9 out of ten times...second reason as to why is management: painting is the last thing to be done on a complete kitchen projects...painter is the last person to leave. Painter don’t like to come up two or three times on the job.
Finally a guy how has actually installed cabinets more than just one weekend warrior.
agree 100%
You're an idiot. Please
you can always tell who the real carpenters are, this guy no question is, thanks for sharing
You can tell by his cap..
Excellent planning tips on how to create layout lines. Planning is the most important step matter what job it is that makes installation much easier.
Been going to Dunn since the early 60's. Very good lumber yard.
This was a very good layout video. I am getting ready to install my very first cabinets and this was great information.
Why can't I find real master craftsman like this guy in my area...
Because people are to cheap to pay a master.
Excellent video and great teacher, thank you for such a good job describing the entire process.
Outstanding video ~ just finished installing our cabinetry and everything you said is bang on.
Excellent tutorial. I cant help think this kind guy reminds me of Benjamin Button. Excellent video
We are looking at doing our own cabinets, going through a remodle from Tree damage. Guess the best way to learn is to Dive in.. Love the video just became a subscriber as well..👍
If high spot is extreme in a corner or close to wall and slopes out, can cut away lower back edge of starter cabinet to scribe cabinet to floor to lessen high shims on low areas when leveling. 👍
This is a good tip for me about to put cabinets in this type of situation
Thanks for the information. Glad I saw this video before rushing in to install my cabinets that just arrived.
Thanks so much! Good luck with your project.
Your welcome! If you have any further questions feel free to reach out at any time! Cheers.
very well done felt like i was being instructed at work!
Very informative - thank you for producing this video.
Your welcome John! Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Brilliant! Best cabinet tips. Thank you
excellent work, thanks for taking the time to present this video
Good video, you explained it well, thanks
Right it looks like the expert will work for the money I'll pay to install my kitchen. Thanks.
Is the rear bottom of the cabinets floating off the floor essentially? I notice shims on the front and rear upper but that's it. The reason I ask is that I have really uneven floors...
this guy has a cool hat. therefor, i will listen.
What a super video! Very well done. Just what I needed and I subscribed.
what about the check measurements ? What is the step by step to dont miss informations and have everything perfect to install ? I never faound something about this on internet. Thank you !
Great Job Nicely Done 😉👍🏽🪚📐🔨
I like those levels.good job Sir.
Excellent video! Thanks.
So I see how to draw a line from the floor and ceiling bump outs but how do you draw a line on the floor for the wall bump outs and I assume you base it off the larger bump out? And doesn’t the wall bump outs push the cabinets out and may cause a tight fit between two opposing walls? Isn’t it best to level the wall?
Solution?
I always attach each run of base cabinets together before installing against the wall. To do this, lay a piece of 3/4" plywood (straight) on the floor. Place cabinets upside down on the plywood (the flat plywood will match them perfectly), clamp them, then screw the frames together. use spacers on the back of the cabinets (assuming you are installing face frame cabinets), and screw the backs together. Now you can just turn the whole row right side up and slide them into place. Level them up against the wall, using shims where necessary to fill voids on the floor and the wall. You can do the same for wall cabinets, except you attached right side up to start with on the plywood, before lifting them up to the wall. No cabinet installer these days would work without a line laser. A great system is to use the EZ-Level cabinet levelers for base cabinets.
They work great and for those of us who measure by the 32nd of an inch, you an adjust your cabinets to as near perfect as you can get.
This eliminates problems when installing your counters by uneven cabinets.
Doug Spencer Thank you!
nice one.....well informed
Great information thank you
Very short and informative...two questions, what if you replace the drywall and what if you install floors all the way to the wall...will that solve High and low areas on the floors? Also on the walls?
If you install a screed bed under your tile you can get a relatively flat floor.
If you put a string line on your studs and correct the humps then put drywall on you could have a flatter wall.
All in all, when building with Spruce Pine Fir soft dimensional lumber, you will always have movement in some form or another. A craftsman is able to maneuver around to create something that looks good to the eye.
Quality video. Thanks
Way to go. Good foundations
Perhaps i missed it, but how did he get the correct height for the base cabinets assuming the floor has high an low spots
0:35
Possibly a good thing about the lake house in a park where you can get a good morning ride
sir I want to starting work modular Kitchrn please help me size about kitchen cabinet
When drawing the line for base cabinets do I measure up from the highest point in the floor? I am working with a terribly uneven floor.
I have never see any do a video about this ever. These are issues you figure out with experience. Now to answer your question. The laser light is a must because it helps you find your highest spot on the floor and your lowest point on the ceiling. You set your upper cabinet on the lowest point on the ceiling and the base cabinet on the highest spot on the floor. I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Yes. Measure from the high point, draw your reference line and then shim up all the cabinets that are not on the hump. This only has to be done for each run of countertop that connects. If you have an island it may be nice to match exact elevation, but you probably won't notice a small difference.
Yep he’s a craftsman.
Is this Richard Dreyfus?
Angus Young loves your hat.
Great video! I’ve watched many and this is by far the best.
The only question I still have is what to do with a large ceiling slope. My ceiling slopes 3/4” in 115” distance. I’m installing crown molding all the way to the ceiling so at the low end it will touch but at the high end I’ll have 3/4” gap. My thought was to attach a strip of wood, behind the crown molding, to the ceiling that’s the same color so the gap is not so obvious. Is there anything else I can do about this?
Thank you!
Push the crown up it'll flex. Depends how picky you are.
This guy reminds me of Bob the Builder
Do you leave or remove the chimes??
The shims stay. They stop the cabinets from warping.
6:00 that laser is going to blind you.
I was wondering why you don't put the cabinets together before installing?
Too heavy to lift up there and u risk breaking the faces. U can assemble them first then disassemble them and put them up and then they will go right back where you had them assembled because of the screw holes lining back up. But the way he did it here is faster.
Hello sar I'm Rahul Soni and I'm a Carpenter and my experience is 5to 6 year and your company any sipesh so please hare me and I hop I'm beater my
B
Already wrong in the first second
We dont need that music.
If you want to be thoroughly confused...watch this guy overexplain and complicate things. Video sucks
no question about your skills, but i see this time after time. why in the hell don't people paint the walls before hanging cabinets? i painted new construction for several years and man it pissed me off when the cabinet guys put the cabinets up before we painted. it makes the work ten times harder and it looks tons better when you paint before installation... not judging your work just questioning the reason for people hanging on bare drywall..
You would think Mr professional would do ot
It’s usually gets political at a job site all the time people pressuring people working on top of each other usually the superintendents are the problem they want everything done ASAP
Why have to be painted if you don’t see it after cabinets are installed and between bottom and top cabinets you have to do backsplash even if you paint when you install the cabinets you will scratch the walls
One reason is the painters said they would get it done before the cabinets came... they lied again and therefore have to deal with it. Lol
Main two reasons from a retailer stand point when we do complete projects in kitchen where we need to manage floors, electrical, plumbing, cabinets, granite backsplash, and finally painters..first reason is customer wants shit done cheaper....so if I tell him/her I really need to replace the wall behind the cabinets because most likely it’s old which will add the texture and paint cost to a wall that you really not going to see they will refuse the additional cost in 9 out of ten times...second reason as to why is management: painting is the last thing to be done on a complete kitchen projects...painter is the last person to leave. Painter don’t like to come up two or three times on the job.