Finally a video on the this subject, I am glad that I am doing this correctly. I like to steal the lighting connections, some lights in my camper are unnecessary. I found out that in some campers they have a 20 light outlet standard from some companies. So you end up with some in odd places or right near each other. I found a company that makes .1w LEDs that do a very good job lighting everything up. So much so that I can get rid of some for plugs like this. They are double socket ones as well. LEDs only need a one socket for how bright they are.
Thanks for another great video! It is amazing to me that the automotive and/or RV industries haven't standardized on something better than a 'cigarette lighter' style of 12v plug!
Isn’t that funny? It’s not even that good of a plug/socket. It’s hard to get around it now, it’s not like your phone plugs into an Anderson or aviation plug .. lol Every time they update the USB I just update my cigarette adapter…
This is an incredibly informative video showing just how to do this. I was watching for entertainment value as I have done this before on my stuff but this is a great way of explaining it. You are a great teacher and I hope to keep learning from you going forward. Thanks again, Pat
Thanks to your clear, detailed instructions I was able to install a four socket panel in our camper. As per your advice, I tried first on scrap wood and I removed the material between the four holes. Thanks again and happy camping!
Thanks for the great information. I was looking for a way to tie my Pecron E600 in as an emergency power source should my house batteries start getting close to 50%. This will make it easy and efficient.
Anderson pole outlets are fantastic. I convert all my 'cigarette' lighter outlets to Anderson outlets; much more secure. Another great video brother, thanks.
We’re cut from the same cloth…theyre definitely one of my favorites. I’m working on some Anderson ports inside the camper that will pass through my solar panels to charge inside the cabin. I’ll probably try to record the process, don’t wanna bore people with too much electrical tinkering…lol
Great video on doing electrical work on the camper. I have done lots of wiring on cars, boats and campers, but I didn't know about those Wago connectors! I'll be ordering some soon. Thanks for the tips.
Well done kind sir! Some next level interjection if I may? For myself I found installing those 2 position 30 amp mini Anderson Power Pole [APP] panels in key spots make for even more versatility. Also handy to keep your fridge plugged in if you like draggin' yer wagon over the rough stuff for long distances. I find many cig plugs tend to fall out in those conditions. And when it comes to crimping connections then please do indulge in a good pair of T&B or Sta Kon crimpers and always check that the tooth on the crimper is opposite the seam on your butt, barrel, loop, spade style connectors. Even some white crimp caps have seams too.Your hands will thank you and your connections will crimp long and prosper.
Nice work Brian! I had two "Accessory" plugs in my camper that were failing. I opted to replace them with one outlet and a USB/Voltage outlet. Not only does this eliminate the need for an additional adapter for the usb charging, it gives me an approximate voltage rating for my battery. This includes an indication of whether or not I'm charging my battery as the voltage reading would be on excess of 13v.
Great content man. I've been a duck in the ice before this... Electrical is not my thing haha. You really take the time to elaborate on everything that may come up and we all definitely appreciate it. Very easy to listen also. You ever think of doing a podcast?
Thanks for this video Brian. I spliced into an led light connection and realized it was stepped down to 7.5v. Which leads me to this two-part question: I'm installing the 12v plug as part of a panel that includes an on/off switch and a USB charger. I realize I would need to have the switch turned on if I want to use the 12v plug for other than back-feeding purposes, but when using as a back-feed, do I leave the switch off? Perhaps I simply bought the wrong type of device? Thanks for your time and help Brian!
If you splice back into the feedwire, youll be at 12vdc, you must have splice in the wire post driver... still pretty unusual to see 7.5. As for the panel, in its normal configuration, you would need to switch on to either power or back feed. It's pretty simple to wire it to do what you want though. Send the wire into the 12 V socket, then over to the switch, then over to the USB or voltage meter. In that case, the 12 V outlet will always be on for use or backfeed, the switch will just interrupt the other stuff. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife One question. So it is better to direclty access the fuse box for the 12v vs splicing into the Radio wire? (BTW, I have to say again, thank you and you are awesome in explaining things).
@@arunakalu Depending on what you are running off the 12v outlet, it may never make a difference...but, its always better to access the fuse block with new wire. Youre welcome, I appreciate that you watch the channel!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I'm going to backfeed using the Bluettie AC50s, 500Wh/300W (Peak 450W) and regulated 12V DC Output to power the camper. Running only the fridge, water pump, furnace and lights. Then found a workaround from Web: Turn on house batteries, then turn on power station and then turn off house batteries. Now the power station powers the RV. :-) Thank You so much for this.
@@arunakalu go right to the converter, it will give you better performance and be safer in the long run when using the outlet to backfeed. Circle back and let me know how your project goes.
Well done on this informative video your teaching is great!! I have a question though: If I am tying into an existing 15A fused circuit, is the additional inline fuse for the plug still necessary? If so, what Is the benefit to using the additional fuse? Thank You
I was so excited to this but my bus bar is tucked in on the bottom and screwed in such a way I can’t access! That’s so frustrating but thank you for this great video
@@DIYOutdoorLife the 2022 10HD. I was just able to use a ratchet screwdriver to get the ground bus free from the backside of the access panel. I wish it was mounted on the side like yours but looks like they were short a little wire and couldn’t reach. :/ oh well, all is good now. Time to deal with the radio cutoff switch tomorrow! Thanks a million for all of the great videos you’ve put out
My 19 foot trailer did not come with a 12 volt socket that was accessible near the bed. It was behind the 12 volt television near the ceiling on the opposite end of the trailer where I would need it to run my CPAP. I was able to tap into the 12 volt line that powered the USB outlets next to the bed. Running the CPAP on 12 volt uses less battery power than using the inverter. I don't know why the manufacture didn't install a combination USB 12v accessory panel. This is an easy modification.
Brian, thanks for your videos! I’ve lost count on how many of yours I’ve watched. Recently bought an eco flow river 2 pro per your video & installed a 4 in 1 socket charger panel per this video. I removed the radio in my pop up and taped into the wires it used. But I’ve run into a problem. The panel powers on when I hit the switch but the 12v charger, USB ports or voltmeter don’t have power. Any thoughts on what I’ve done wrong?
This sounds to me like you have the wires wrong on the switch. There should be a negative wire and the positive wire from the 12v source on that switch. The top terminal then jumps over to the other three sockets. If you still have trouble, send me an email with photos . Diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Great video! I was able to install one of these very easily. I have a question though since i'm a novice. I bought another one and tried to install it next to my radio and tap into the wires. The negative was easy, but the positive had 4 wires in one compression nut. I undid that and used a wago 5 way connector to add the USB panel positive. After I connected them, it immediately blew the fuse in both the fuse box and the glass tube fuse. Any ideas/recommendations?
I'm not entirely sure and think where I am getting lost. The 5 wires i connected were the trailer positive, the USB panel positive, 12v constant (radio), 12v DC switch (radio), and dimmer (radio). It was previously all 4 under one connection and essentially, I just added the USB panel positive to it.
@@andyfreedman6744 I would get a multi meter in there and see what’s going on. Also, double check to see that you’re connected to the positive side of the 12 V outlet, they should have a + and -
I fixed my wiring problem. Made a rookie mistake. The switch had 3 connectors, but wasnt labeled plus or minus. Wasnt until i looked at it in the light that i realized one was gold and one was silver. Flipped them and everything worked. Thank you for help and response! Again, love the videos. They are very informative!
Brilliant explanation! I would like to wire a 12v socket in my RV to charge a laptop that is at 4.7Amps const. Based off of the length of wire needed etc. I have found that I would need a 12AWG wire. Would I really need a wire that thick or could I use something much thinner, say, a 17 gauge wire that is capable of withstanding 15 amps? with the added fuse, of course.
@@DIYOutdoorLife @DIY Outdoor Life thank you, I used your recommendation and video and I now have a working 12v socket! Thanks! My wife is happy as she can charge her laptop from under the table instead of the charger wire hanging overhead (as that is where the socket used to be). If I may ask one more question, I was thinking of wiring two 12v sockets together to charge two laptops, say, with the same specs as before, so that would be 2x 5A = 10A altogether, and I read somewhere that it's best to muiltiply that by 1.5 then round up, so I get a 15A or 20A fuse to use. I've used some online wiring calculators, and at 20A at a 30feet distance, I would have to use... a 6 gauge wire... This probably being a "book standard" result, could I use a thinner wire? Say, 10 guage, since 10 gauge is technically good for 30amps. I just cannot seem to reason using such a colossal wire (6 gauge) for two little 12v sockets. 10 gauge is big enough, but 6 gauge would look ridiculous. Thank you!
@@Farseer1995 10awg will be more than enough. In fact, I would have to look at your system, but I bet you could even use smaller than 10. You’re on a roll, have fun!
hello I've been watching you for quite awhile I have a bushwhacker fb and I'm hoping you can help me to figure how to make my ac not over heat I've cut a hole in the galy and not a thermostat ran fan to suck the hot air out but it is still not working correctly please help if you can. thanks for all you do
Curious as to why you are adding another fuse to circuit 3, whereas in the other piggyback (both installs are technically piggybacking) there was no fuse?
Been a while since I made this, I don't remember which way I did them. I do know that the one I installed had a inline fuse holder attached, the other one I added a blade fuse holder to. Thats what a I suspect was different. If the circuit is a 15a, you dont need to add another fuse, if its higher than you should. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Great video! Very informative! I have kind of a technical question. I own a Coleman Power Chiller which is a refrigerator that looks like a cooler. It has a "cigarette lighter" plug attached with an adapter/converter if you want to plug it into a normal 110v outlet. I was able to plug it into my previous travel trailer that had a 12v outlet and it worked. (I never checked the wire size or if it was a dedicated circuit.) My current TT has no such outlet. I want to install a 12v outlet in the dinette where there is a CO detector, but the 12v wires to that detector are tiny. Can I do that or would I be better off going right to the panel, as you discuss in the second half of your video? Thanks so much for your help. : )
It would be best to create a dedicated circuit or tap in to something with a larger wire. Although the dryer is not huge, it runs constantly and you want to make sure you have a proper conductor. Hope this helps, thanks for watching !
Are you referring to the plug on the exterior? You can, just make sure to use a marine grade water resistant plug... it's less than ideal, but will do the job.
How would I go about turning a 110 plug that would need to be on shore power into a cigarette plug. My trailer only has 110 plugs for the tv. Dont wont to have to run the gen all the time
I am thinking I can run a ground and a postive from the house battery to a inverter and control the power that way turn on/off when watching the tv. Maybe run a inline fuse just in case
My power supply is older and doesn't have connectors, just long wires. Can't I just cut one of the 12v wires that goes to my lights and put in a wire that I'll use to run to my 12v water heater, and WAGO them all together?
@@sullyh4040 In theory that should work fine. You do need to pay attention to a lot of things when youre doing DC wiring. Add up your loads and make sure the wire size, wire distance and fusing match the current that will pass through the wire. Hope this helps.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Just called the mfg. They told me to put it on it's own circuit. Do you have a video about how to install a new circuit on the power converter? I have an open port for one.
I always appreciate your thoughtful comments. I think I got tired after 18 minutes, I should have showed a test. Typically, we would test potential with a voltage reading from a multimeter or device like the volt meter in the video (4-1). It should be close to the reading off the battery. We would not be able to test ampacity or current capability, that’s why we have such strict standards on conductors and our code system is so overkill.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I see. So I assume the process would be to ground the negative lead somehow and stick the positive lead inside the cigarette plug and make contact? I ask because my rv has what I've called a "mystery" cigarette plug that does not work very consistently. It's nothing but two wires connected to a 12v plug and just hangs inside one of the cabinets. I've never traced it back to its actual source. When I've used it, the power seems to be intermittent, not consistent. I'd like to use it for that "backfeed" option in your past video, but I need to do some more detective work on it. As for me, I appreciate your thoughtful responses! 🙏
@@twloughlin The outside metal ring/cylinder is the ground. Positive would depress the copper tab on the inside/back of the plug and negative is the housing. I would start by swapping the plug. Sometimes it doesn’t take much for the positive to lose contact. If that doesn’t immediately solve the problem, it should be relatively easy to swap the wiring. Maybe even replacing the female spades first.
Do you have a meter to check battery? Your outlets won’t work off the battery. Your fan, furnace, lights, usb, and “cigarette” style plugs will. If you’re in a bind and you need to check, plug your 12 pin camper plug into your tow vehicle, start your car and check to see if the device starts working. If it works when you do that, it’s not your fuse, most likely the battery. I hope this helps!
Just figured it out, the outlets don’t work without shore power. And my vent has to be open to run it. I guess I’ll have to get a small generator? To run AC or outlets..
@@knowledgeadventure1819 glad you got it resolved, I just saw you got answers on the FB page. Try not to run your battery too low, a small generator might be the way to go.
@@knowledgeadventure1819 although I use a different one, I’ve been hearing really good things about this affordable generator- amzn.to/3vHSqAs As for hot water, do you mean a shower kit or something that gives you hot water at the galley tap?
Something to consider is that 99% of these cigarette plugs, given most vehicles have one already for cigarettes, is they are used for USB charging adapters which are downright fragile. Why not use the 12V powered adapters with USB outputs instead?
This is true, I use one of the 4 slots in this for a hardwired USB spot for sure. Getting good adapters is key if you’re going to be swapping around. Seems like USB C with power delivery is key.
@@DIYOutdoorLife uh, no! that's unreal and amazing. I always got mindful + good will vibes from you, so this all makes sense. How do you live at a monastery without ordaining? If you're this helpful online, you must be a cherished member of the Sangha.
@@Shloopy420 I’ve lived in a Zen Buddhist Monastery for 7 years. The first half was in training with other monks and lay-monastics. For this latter half, I’ve lived and worked here as the Director of Facilities for the organization. The delineation of titles and ordination is slightly different in the Zen tradition than the Tibetan practice. We have open monasteries that allow long-term residence for both the ordained and the lay practitioner alike. I generally don’t talk about it in these videos but you’ll notice the large Japanese gates in the background, now that youre in the know…lol 🙏🏻
OMG ... THANK YOU. Finally someone explains this. Thanks big time!
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Finally a video on the this subject, I am glad that I am doing this correctly. I like to steal the lighting connections, some lights in my camper are unnecessary. I found out that in some campers they have a 20 light outlet standard from some companies. So you end up with some in odd places or right near each other. I found a company that makes .1w LEDs that do a very good job lighting everything up. So much so that I can get rid of some for plugs like this. They are double socket ones as well. LEDs only need a one socket for how bright they are.
Nice, great work. Its always fun to do some power audits for boondocking.
Thanks for another great video! It is amazing to me that the automotive and/or RV industries haven't standardized on something better than a 'cigarette lighter' style of 12v plug!
Isn’t that funny? It’s not even that good of a plug/socket.
It’s hard to get around it now, it’s not like your phone plugs into an Anderson or aviation plug .. lol Every time they update the USB I just update my cigarette adapter…
This is an incredibly informative video showing just how to do this. I was watching for entertainment value as I have done this before on my stuff but this is a great way of explaining it. You are a great teacher and I hope to keep learning from you going forward.
Thanks again,
Pat
Thank you, I’d like to make more videos like this. Lots of fun little upgrades to make on these tiny campers
Thanks to your clear, detailed instructions I was able to install a four socket panel in our camper. As per your advice, I tried first on scrap wood and I removed the material between the four holes. Thanks again and happy camping!
That’s great! They’re really handy, I love the one with the switch. Thanks for circling back w update.
Thanks for the great information. I was looking for a way to tie my Pecron E600 in as an emergency power source should my house batteries start getting close to 50%. This will make it easy and efficient.
Thatll work great.
Heres a vid on that-
RV Power Station Hack | Interior Back-Feed
ua-cam.com/video/lf2nbCLuLCY/v-deo.html
Anderson pole outlets are fantastic. I convert all my 'cigarette' lighter outlets to Anderson outlets; much more secure. Another great video brother, thanks.
We’re cut from the same cloth…theyre definitely one of my favorites. I’m working on some Anderson ports inside the camper that will pass through my solar panels to charge inside the cabin. I’ll probably try to record the process, don’t wanna bore people with too much electrical tinkering…lol
Thank you Brian. You made this extremely clear and helpful. I now feel confident in running directly to the converter.
That’s great news, thank you for swinging by with the comment!
Great video on doing electrical work on the camper. I have done lots of wiring on cars, boats and campers, but I didn't know about those Wago connectors! I'll be ordering some soon. Thanks for the tips.
Oh man, you’re gonna LOVE wagos… lol
Very impressive video. I have gained bit more confidence. Cheers Jason adams. Boston. UK.
Thank you, good luck with your project!
Well done kind sir! Some next level interjection if I may? For myself I found installing those 2 position 30 amp mini Anderson Power Pole [APP] panels in key spots make for even more versatility. Also handy to keep your fridge plugged in if you like draggin' yer wagon over the rough stuff for long distances. I find many cig plugs tend to fall out in those conditions. And when it comes to crimping connections then please do indulge in a good pair of T&B or Sta Kon crimpers and always check that the tooth on the crimper is opposite the seam on your butt, barrel, loop, spade style connectors. Even some white crimp caps have seams too.Your hands will thank you and your connections will crimp long and prosper.
Great stuff! I was just talking to someone about how I prefer APP across the board. Great recommendation on the crimper. Thanks Charles!
Nice work Brian! I had two "Accessory" plugs in my camper that were failing. I opted to replace them with one outlet and a USB/Voltage outlet. Not only does this eliminate the need for an additional adapter for the usb charging, it gives me an approximate voltage rating for my battery. This includes an indication of whether or not I'm charging my battery as the voltage reading would be on excess of 13v.
It’s a really nice upgrade!
Brian wired my lights and they work great! Thanks again😁
haha...Few years now?
Thanks Brian, another informative video. Your content continues to grow and instructions are easy to follow :-)
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
You are a very good teacher !
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
Appreciate the timestamp/chapter breakdown!
Thanks, I knew it would take me a while to cover everything and people might want to bounce around. Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Perfect . I was wanting to do this , now I can . Thank you so very much .
That’s great, thank you for watching!
Thanks for this. Very informative. Now to go try for myself!
Nice, let me know how it goes!
I'm a big fan of the WAGOs too. Rock-solid and when you have to do some changes to the wiring just lift the little lever and you are good to go again.
They’re a game changer. I use them a lot with AC junction boxes. No more six wire neutral splice filling the whole box!
Thank you sir! Really well explained, for a complete armatures like me.
Awesome video, I appreciate the details you share in each video.
Thank you, I'm glad it's helpful. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Another great video and another modification to add to the list.
It adds up fast! Amazon gift cards...lol
Great content man. I've been a duck in the ice before this... Electrical is not my thing haha. You really take the time to elaborate on everything that may come up and we all definitely appreciate it. Very easy to listen also. You ever think of doing a podcast?
Thank you for the kind words. I wish I had more time, I would love to do something like that.
Thanks for this video Brian, great info!
Appreciate you watching and commenting, thanks John!
Once again, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Nice follow to previous video. Thank you
thank you!
Another great video man, thanks!
Thank you, I'm glad you're tuning in!
You’re the Bob Ross of DIY 😂
Haha... beautiful clouds
Another great video. Just installed a 4 port usb outlet using your tips. Thank you!!
These are my favorite comments!!! I'm so excited that it helped. Good luck with your new setup, never enough usb's
Thanks for this video Brian. I spliced into an led light connection and realized it was stepped down to 7.5v. Which leads me to this two-part question: I'm installing the 12v plug as part of a panel that includes an on/off switch and a USB charger. I realize I would need to have the switch turned on if I want to use the 12v plug for other than back-feeding purposes, but when using as a back-feed, do I leave the switch off? Perhaps I simply bought the wrong type of device? Thanks for your time and help Brian!
If you splice back into the feedwire, youll be at 12vdc, you must have splice in the wire post driver... still pretty unusual to see 7.5.
As for the panel, in its normal configuration, you would need to switch on to either power or back feed. It's pretty simple to wire it to do what you want though. Send the wire into the 12 V socket, then over to the switch, then over to the USB or voltage meter. In that case, the 12 V outlet will always be on for use or backfeed, the switch will just interrupt the other stuff.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks
Thank you! It means a lot to see you’re binging out on the content.
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
So I have just found you (yesterday actually) and I find your content extremely educational.
@@obiokiutube39 really happy to have you on board!
Great video, I am going to do this to our camper.
That's great, thank for watching.
@@DIYOutdoorLife One question. So it is better to direclty access the fuse box for the 12v vs splicing into the Radio wire? (BTW, I have to say again, thank you and you are awesome in explaining things).
@@arunakalu Depending on what you are running off the 12v outlet, it may never make a difference...but, its always better to access the fuse block with new wire.
Youre welcome, I appreciate that you watch the channel!
@@DIYOutdoorLife I'm going to backfeed using the Bluettie AC50s, 500Wh/300W (Peak 450W) and regulated 12V DC Output to power the camper. Running only the fridge, water pump, furnace and lights. Then found a workaround from Web: Turn on house batteries, then turn on power station and then turn off house batteries. Now the power station powers the RV. :-) Thank You so much for this.
@@arunakalu go right to the converter, it will give you better performance and be safer in the long run when using the outlet to backfeed. Circle back and let me know how your project goes.
I think this would be even a much better camper if there was an outside table just those small brackets that you could slide a table onto
I agree! They’re super easy to install, maybe I’ll do one.
Well done on this informative video your teaching is great!!
I have a question though: If I am tying into an existing 15A fused circuit, is the additional inline fuse for the plug still necessary? If so, what Is the benefit to using the additional fuse?
Thank You
If the circuit is fused properly for the conductor, you're fine to just add the socket.
Thanks for watching!
I was so excited to this but my bus bar is tucked in on the bottom and screwed in such a way I can’t access! That’s so frustrating but thank you for this great video
what camper do you have? Bus for positive or grounding?
@@DIYOutdoorLife the 2022 10HD. I was just able to use a ratchet screwdriver to get the ground bus free from the backside of the access panel. I wish it was mounted on the side like yours but looks like they were short a little wire and couldn’t reach. :/ oh well, all is good now. Time to deal with the radio cutoff switch tomorrow! Thanks a million for all of the great videos you’ve put out
@@assistantchief51 nice work! I'm really glad you got it.
My 19 foot trailer did not come with a 12 volt socket that was accessible near the bed. It was behind the 12 volt television near the ceiling on the opposite end of the trailer where I would need it to run my CPAP. I was able to tap into the 12 volt line that powered the USB outlets next to the bed. Running the CPAP on 12 volt uses less battery power than using the inverter. I don't know why the manufacture didn't install a combination USB 12v accessory panel. This is an easy modification.
Excellent work! You're not kidding, the CPAP will use considerably less on 12 V
Brian, thanks for your videos! I’ve lost count on how many of yours I’ve watched. Recently bought an eco flow river 2 pro per your video & installed a 4 in 1 socket charger panel per this video. I removed the radio in my pop up and taped into the wires it used. But I’ve run into a problem. The panel powers on when I hit the switch but the 12v charger, USB ports or voltmeter don’t have power. Any thoughts on what I’ve done wrong?
This sounds to me like you have the wires wrong on the switch.
There should be a negative wire and the positive wire from the 12v source on that switch. The top terminal then jumps over to the other three sockets.
If you still have trouble, send me an email with photos .
Diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Thanks! I’ll look at it and let you know. I appreciate your videos and teaching ability!
Great video! I was able to install one of these very easily. I have a question though since i'm a novice. I bought another one and tried to install it next to my radio and tap into the wires. The negative was easy, but the positive had 4 wires in one compression nut. I undid that and used a wago 5 way connector to add the USB panel positive. After I connected them, it immediately blew the fuse in both the fuse box and the glass tube fuse. Any ideas/recommendations?
Hard to tell, but something is definitely off. Are you sure that you didn’t connect it to two different positives?
I'm not entirely sure and think where I am getting lost. The 5 wires i connected were the trailer positive, the USB panel positive, 12v constant (radio), 12v DC switch (radio), and dimmer (radio). It was previously all 4 under one connection and essentially, I just added the USB panel positive to it.
@@andyfreedman6744 I would get a multi meter in there and see what’s going on. Also, double check to see that you’re connected to the positive side of the 12 V outlet, they should have a + and -
I fixed my wiring problem. Made a rookie mistake. The switch had 3 connectors, but wasnt labeled plus or minus. Wasnt until i looked at it in the light that i realized one was gold and one was silver. Flipped them and everything worked. Thank you for help and response! Again, love the videos. They are very informative!
@@andyfreedman6744 great news!
Brilliant explanation! I would like to wire a 12v socket in my RV to charge a laptop that is at 4.7Amps const. Based off of the length of wire needed etc. I have found that I would need a 12AWG wire. Would I really need a wire that thick or could I use something much thinner, say, a 17 gauge wire that is capable of withstanding 15 amps? with the added fuse, of course.
14awg could handle 15a for a long distance.
@@DIYOutdoorLife @DIY Outdoor Life thank you, I used your recommendation and video and I now have a working 12v socket! Thanks! My wife is happy as she can charge her laptop from under the table instead of the charger wire hanging overhead (as that is where the socket used to be).
If I may ask one more question, I was thinking of wiring two 12v sockets together to charge two laptops, say, with the same specs as before, so that would be 2x 5A = 10A altogether, and I read somewhere that it's best to muiltiply that by 1.5 then round up, so I get a 15A or 20A fuse to use.
I've used some online wiring calculators, and at 20A at a 30feet distance, I would have to use... a 6 gauge wire...
This probably being a "book standard" result, could I use a thinner wire? Say, 10 guage, since 10 gauge is technically good for 30amps.
I just cannot seem to reason using such a colossal wire (6 gauge) for two little 12v sockets. 10 gauge is big enough, but 6 gauge would look ridiculous.
Thank you!
@@Farseer1995 10awg will be more than enough. In fact, I would have to look at your system, but I bet you could even use smaller than 10.
You’re on a roll, have fun!
@@DIYOutdoorLife hah, once again thanks a ton!
hello I've been watching you for quite awhile I have a bushwhacker fb and I'm hoping you can help me to figure how to make my ac not over heat I've cut a hole in the galy and not a thermostat ran fan to suck the hot air out but it is still not working correctly please help if you can. thanks for all you do
10fb model?
Curious as to why you are adding another fuse to circuit 3, whereas in the other piggyback (both installs are technically piggybacking) there was no fuse?
Been a while since I made this, I don't remember which way I did them.
I do know that the one I installed had a inline fuse holder attached, the other one I added a blade fuse holder to. Thats what a I suspect was different.
If the circuit is a 15a, you dont need to add another fuse, if its higher than you should.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@DIYOutdoorLife if I just jump off my DC stereo wiring the existing fuse in the panel for the circuit should be fine now.
@@VTDivot yes
Great video! Very informative! I have kind of a technical question. I own a Coleman Power Chiller which is a refrigerator that looks like a cooler. It has a "cigarette lighter" plug attached with an adapter/converter if you want to plug it into a normal 110v outlet. I was able to plug it into my previous travel trailer that had a 12v outlet and it worked. (I never checked the wire size or if it was a dedicated circuit.) My current TT has no such outlet. I want to install a 12v outlet in the dinette where there is a CO detector, but the 12v wires to that detector are tiny. Can I do that or would I be better off going right to the panel, as you discuss in the second half of your video? Thanks so much for your help. : )
P.S. I just checked and the appliance pulls 5 amps. Does that help?
It would be best to create a dedicated circuit or tap in to something with a larger wire. Although the dryer is not huge, it runs constantly and you want to make sure you have a proper conductor.
Hope this helps, thanks for watching !
Hey Brian, Can I replace the worthless solar plug-in with a 12v outlet? I'd hate to drill another hole for an extra 12v. Thanks
Are you referring to the plug on the exterior? You can, just make sure to use a marine grade water resistant plug... it's less than ideal, but will do the job.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks Brian, those wires look pretty hefty, I may have to think it over.
wago nuts all i use anymore !!!!
They’re pretty sweet!
How would I go about turning a 110 plug that would need to be on shore power into a cigarette plug. My trailer only has 110 plugs for the tv. Dont wont to have to run the gen all the time
Unfortunately, that can’t be done. The 110 is alternating current and the 12 V is direct current.
You’re going to want to add some brand new 12 V
I am thinking I can run a ground and a postive from the house battery to a inverter and control the power that way turn on/off when watching the tv. Maybe run a inline fuse just in case
@@robertachen871 it would work but your run time would be very very short. It would be cheaper to buy a 12 V TV and install a cigarette plug.
My power supply is older and doesn't have connectors, just long wires. Can't I just cut one of the 12v wires that goes to my lights and put in a wire that I'll use to run to my 12v water heater, and WAGO them all together?
This is tough to answer without seeing. Are you sure the water heater is 12v? Is it propane?
@@DIYOutdoorLife Yes. 12 volt DC spark ignition. I also have access to tail light wiring under the bed. Would that work to splice into?
@@sullyh4040 In theory that should work fine. You do need to pay attention to a lot of things when youre doing DC wiring. Add up your loads and make sure the wire size, wire distance and fusing match the current that will pass through the wire.
Hope this helps.
@@DIYOutdoorLife Just called the mfg. They told me to put it on it's own circuit. Do you have a video about how to install a new circuit on the power converter? I have an open port for one.
@@sullyh4040 no, I’d be happy to help. Email me at diyoutdoorcontent@gmail.com
Brian, what tools or devices would you use to test the 12v plug to be certain it's carrying the correct current before you plugged anything in?
I always appreciate your thoughtful comments. I think I got tired after 18 minutes, I should have showed a test.
Typically, we would test potential with a voltage reading from a multimeter or device like the volt meter in the video (4-1). It should be close to the reading off the battery. We would not be able to test ampacity or current capability, that’s why we have such strict standards on conductors and our code system is so overkill.
@@DIYOutdoorLife I see. So I assume the process would be to ground the negative lead somehow and stick the positive lead inside the cigarette plug and make contact? I ask because my rv has what I've called a "mystery" cigarette plug that does not work very consistently. It's nothing but two wires connected to a 12v plug and just hangs inside one of the cabinets. I've never traced it back to its actual source. When I've used it, the power seems to be intermittent, not consistent. I'd like to use it for that "backfeed" option in your past video, but I need to do some more detective work on it. As for me, I appreciate your thoughtful responses! 🙏
@@twloughlin The outside metal ring/cylinder is the ground.
Positive would depress the copper tab on the inside/back of the plug and negative is the housing.
I would start by swapping the plug. Sometimes it doesn’t take much for the positive to lose contact. If that doesn’t immediately solve the problem, it should be relatively easy to swap the wiring. Maybe even replacing the female spades first.
I’m boondocking just 1 night in, my outlets and vent fan do not work. Is it a fuse or low battery?
Do you have a meter to check battery? Your outlets won’t work off the battery. Your fan, furnace, lights, usb, and “cigarette” style plugs will.
If you’re in a bind and you need to check, plug your 12 pin camper plug into your tow vehicle, start your car and check to see if the device starts working. If it works when you do that, it’s not your fuse, most likely the battery.
I hope this helps!
Just figured it out, the outlets don’t work without shore power. And my vent has to be open to run it. I guess I’ll have to get a small generator? To run AC or outlets..
@@knowledgeadventure1819 glad you got it resolved, I just saw you got answers on the FB page. Try not to run your battery too low, a small generator might be the way to go.
@@DIYOutdoorLife yes I’m looking into some, can you send me a link for ideas run water to tankless heater from pump?
@@knowledgeadventure1819 although I use a different one, I’ve been hearing really good things about this affordable generator-
amzn.to/3vHSqAs
As for hot water, do you mean a shower kit or something that gives you hot water at the galley tap?
Something to consider is that 99% of these cigarette plugs, given most vehicles have one already for cigarettes, is they are used for USB charging adapters which are downright fragile. Why not use the 12V powered adapters with USB outputs instead?
This is true, I use one of the 4 slots in this for a hardwired USB spot for sure. Getting good adapters is key if you’re going to be swapping around. Seems like USB C with power delivery is key.
dude can i drive out to you, meditate, vibe, and pay you to do this? :D
Haha… you do know I live in a monastery right?
@@DIYOutdoorLife uh, no! that's unreal and amazing. I always got mindful + good will vibes from you, so this all makes sense. How do you live at a monastery without ordaining? If you're this helpful online, you must be a cherished member of the Sangha.
@@Shloopy420 I’ve lived in a Zen Buddhist Monastery for 7 years. The first half was in training with other monks and lay-monastics. For this latter half, I’ve lived and worked here as the Director of Facilities for the organization.
The delineation of titles and ordination is slightly different in the Zen tradition than the Tibetan practice. We have open monasteries that allow long-term residence for both the ordained and the lay practitioner alike.
I generally don’t talk about it in these videos but you’ll notice the large Japanese gates in the background, now that youre in the know…lol
🙏🏻