under cover 3/4, it looked like you didn't push frames toward the brood end (time 21:30) thought I might have missed, but, didn't notice you move your follower board, on camera also. many thanks. Great inspection!!
I pressed all frames toward the entrance end, and the follower board was also pressed up against the last frame. I should have done a close up of that last move. Thanks for mentioning it.
@@FrederickDunn I thought I saw the same thing as Tom. Good to hear that I just missed that “press” maneuver. I know (from a learning experience) that the bees will attach comb to the cover boards if the frames are not pushed together.
As someone looking to get into beekeeping, I’ve ordered a flow hive kit, this was tho most informative video I’ve watched out of about 20! I’m in Australia and we’re just heading into summer. Thank you Mr Dunn.
THANKS Fred! Time Well spent when 'my turn' comes. well if, and can never really turn down more Lessons of Learning. Eventually this will be automatic 'Replay' in my head. Appreciate the time to show off the Girls. How nice to see all doing Well.
I really enjoyed watching the frame by frame inspection. I have 2 long langs and your inspection was very informative and I learned a lot of new things just from it. Thanks for the great video.
I really enjoy your inspection videos! You explain things very well. It's also nice to see that even the great Mr Dunn gets excited to see full frames of brood and the queen. lol Thanks for the video and as always thank you for sharing your knowledge!! Have a great weekend!
Idea for you: glass panes can be integrated into the inner cover boards to serve as a propolis trap - some light will come through the ventilation in the main cover, and the bees will want to block it out. When you're ready to harvest the propolis, you can just scrape it off the glass with a razor blade.
Great video! My dad expressed an idea for a horizontal hive like this when I was a kid in 1978 but we never did try to make one. Also it's amazing how relaxed that hive is!! They barely even take notice of you poking around.,
Keeping the experience uneventful for the bees goes a long way in keeping them calm during subsequent visits. Yes, the long lang, or other horizontal hive configurations have been around for a very very long time.
Mr. Dunn, I took your advice and used some silicone and caulked up the inside edges of my horizontal hive to stop the bees from climbing under the lid instead of through the entrance. It worked a charm and now the ladies are all using the proper entrance. I used a variation of the box within a box design and filled the insulation area with cedar chips marketed as pet bedding.
Hi Dunn! I’m watching a little’! I like your horizontal hive! I remember my grandfather have before in Ukraine. Nice frame with broods you have! You have a great time and stay more healthy! We waiting a new season.
I think that if I were the queen bee and my minions were making queen cells….I’d step up egg production and go on some propaganda tours to raise the hive morale! If you only live a couple months you don’t really want to get stung to death and replaced with my own daughter by disgruntled minions…
Great video! I love how you explain your thinking. At 41:00 there was still a gap between frames when you replaced the cover boards, so I guess the bees will festoon from the cover boards and then draw foundationless comb to fill the space. If I tried to film, I would forget way more things than that!
Nope.. there is no gap... when I was putting the cover boards back on, you'll see my hand go under them as I press up the frames also. I'll show that in the next update video. I also pressed up the divider board against the last frame. You are right, if those frames had been left spread out, they would begin to use the space and would draw comb down from the cover board interior surfaces.
@@FrederickDunn I see you push the divider at 42:55 but I can't tell how far. Hopefully no bees get smashed. I use center entrances and two dividers. Inspections move the colony a little to one side or the other. Thanks again for your great videos!
Fred thanks for the good video.I hope that they do well this winter.I cut the corners off all of the foundations and none are all of the way closed. There is small holes in the tops and bigger holes in the bottoms.
Hi Charles, ya, it's a good move to keep those transit and venting routes open. They do leave the larger travel routes open in the foundationless comb frames, so it also makes sense that they leave the bottom corners more open than the upper. Thanks for sharing!
I always find larvae but wow, I have 20/20 vision and can never find eggs! Maybe first year beekeeper problems. I really appreciate your content! Your willingness to take your time and your calm demeanor is very pleasant.
It's one those things that when you do finally see eggs, you'll notice them everywhere. Training the eye is a big part of beekeeping. An inability to find and identify eggs may be one of the most challenging aspects for new or elderly beekeepers. Thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment.
Thank you Frederick. They do seem soft and they were about 15 to 20mm. I hope to do another inspection Monday & will look at all the frames in the brood box to see if we can see anything that might add to define what they are. Ill make sure to eliminate anything we see that is abnormal.
Fantastic, Fred! I was there with you all the way… for a non bee keeper it was a gr8 experience. Many thanks for taking us on this journey. Hope to see many more similar videos after the nectar flow and during honey harvest both conventional and Flow Hive as a contrast. Mead time now! 😉🍻
At 33:30 - 33:35while showing us your brood eggs there was a cell in the middle right side looked like there were multiple eggs in a cell. Does that mean there could be an egg laying worker?
An egg producing worker can show up, in theory, at anytime and the nurse bees just police them up. New queens are also prone to drop two in a single cell from time to time.
Funny how when you brought that one frame close, i could smell propolis and bees wax. Power of suggestion. Very interesting seeing how your long lang is doing.
At 33:11, I though I saw a Queen in the bottom right corner of the frame. Could it be that there are two? Can you see the one I mean if you skip to that time?
Hi Mindy, it's very common for new beekeepers to see drones and think they have found the queen. Good eye, that's a drone. But there are instances where more than one queen occupy the same colony.
I was wondering what winter looks like in a long langstroth. Do the bees in fact move sideways 1mm a day like they would move upwards in a vertical hive in winter? Thanks! Still watching the video.
Great video, thanks for your work. the information you provide is appreciated. I was wondering how your Layens hive is developing, looking forward to that video. Thank you from North Idaho.
First time viewer, so hello! Really liked your video. I got a layens swarm catcher and built a layens long hive last summer and am looking forward to having bees next spring. I hope they are as happy as yours are. I liked the way you kept the bees calm as you went through the hive. That seems like the way it should be done. You really should edit out the bits that deal with video production. Viewers are watching to see the bees, not to see how you setup your cameras and shots. Question: how do the bees benefit from frequent inspections? I would think that normal inspections would be limited and focus on making sure the hive has space for storage during flows and deep inspections would be limited to times when there is an obvious problem. Also do you use the divider board to make splits in your long hive?
Hi Keith, many viewers ask about equipment so I can't please everyone. This particular video was an exam for Cornell University and edits were not permitted, normally I do edit the videos. The fewer inspections you perform, the better off the bees are. I try to convince keepers that they really should have a good reason for opening the hive, and other then during educational videos like this one it's best to keep those visits as brief as possible. Sorry you were bothered by having to see the cameras, that's not what I normally do.
Well , I wasn’t gonna do it but I’m at Home Depot now buying materials to build a horizontal hive 😂😂I talked myself out of it more than into it but tonight I’m gonna build one 😝 I will post a pic on your Fb page when I’m done , I have a couple design ideas, I’m gonna use a telescopic lid and it will attach to the back side as a work table when it’s off and I’m going to insulate the walls and roof and add articulating vents 🤓
The good news is that you can build that thing as big and heavy as you want to. It's a stationary hive that you never have to lift, so just put everything you ever wanted right on it! Mine isn't strapped down at all, and it's handled 56 mph winds this past winter without the slightest budge. Heavily insulate that cover, and leave yourself plenty of working space and you're IN. The Long Langstroth is my favorite hive to work. If I've helped you on your way to the poor house and emptied your wallet... well, you're welcome! :)
Fred.. I believe at some point you mentioned something along the lines of what I'm about to ask. Maybe it was in this video.. because bees move more vertical than lateral over winter, and because when a feral colony builds in between floor or ceiling joists, the comb tends to be built in the direction of the joists.. if there was some way to install frames the long way in a long hive, would lateral movement be better? Would they winter better? Have you experimented with this? I often wonder about this and also how to implement this end-to-end frame alignment while maintaining frame support and proper bee space. Anyway.. maybe something to ponder and talk about in a future video.
That's a great question, but given their handling of this configuration, I think the orientation of the frames isn't significant. It's definitely easier to manage bee-space with this setup. If we ran then end-to-end, we'd definitely need to put support struts in since we can't have them hanging the comb from the cover as they would in a feral cavity setup.
Thank you Frederick...... I didn't say it but I also found a moth, dead on the white correx board with the 5 maggots. I am wondering due to having a floor that is 3.3mm stainless mesh I wonder if the moth could have laid it's eggs under the mesh in the wax & debris that was laying on the plastic catch sheet? I must do that inspection but it was poor weather today drizzling. I noted the weather did not stop those hard workers from continuing with their foraging. First light they were coming and going whatever the weather. I was amused and wary at the same time, because I shone an led light into the underfloor compartment and noticed there was a little more gap of about 3mm at the right of the floor when I accessed the removable cover to get the undersheet out.......loads of eyes and in a scuffle to get through that 3mm gap. When they found they could not get through they quietly went away....phew. To be sure, I'll be tightening that gap for the future because otherwise the bees that get through might end up on the surface of the catch sheet that is now sticky!
Dear Frederick... I've just seen an article by the government which says UK does not allow any importation of bees from Italy where some SHB exist. I think it confirmed there are no hive beetle in the UK so it seems that the small grey larvae are probably wax moth. The foundations/combs cannot be sprayed with bees on them apparently. On inspection I must pay attention to what I see tomorrow when I inspect everything within the hive. I see the light colour telltale track can be seen on careful inspection and the wax moth larvae removed. I am keen to do what can be done to eliminate that pest. Thanks for your valued help.
Question, although I started beekeeping the first time in 1971 there wasn’t mite issues when I started and//or stopped beekeeping but being a woodworker I have used O/A in woodworking but that’s my extent of its use , now we did use thyme oil for other critters, my main question is have you ever used apiguard or thyme oil, thymox, thymol for treatment for varoa destructors? And if so were you successful? For some reason I want to lean to the most natural form of hygiene whether it’s biological with hygienic species, drone framing , thyme product or apiguard , I know that O/A is an organic material but to me it’s a little more harsh , so your opinion and advice is appreciated and respected as well as Dr. Leo , I love that Russian dude 😋you two are my favorite fellas next to my late great mentor uncle Parks 🙂
Hi David, since my control efforts have been satisfied with IPM and OAV alone, I haven't had to step on to my Formic Pro Packs at all, and two cases of that just sat on the shelf and expired. (';')... Apiguard is a Thymol based product and is VERY strong.. P. U. ! But then, so is Formic Pro, and they are temperature sensitive. I actually consider OAV to be a mild/soft treatment when used correctly. I use it when there are brood breaks, including when I find a queenless colony, or installing a swarm, or after making a split. You can knock down your mite levels so much in winter, that the mites have a hard time rebounding through the year. ONE mite-infested colony can change everything. You can't use Apiguard with honey supers on, but you can use OAV with supers on. Lots to consider. Genetics are the future, but we need to help them along while the breeders do their thing :)
I'm just getting started in beekeeping and I love the idea of the Long Langstroth hive. I want to build my own but I have a few questions. 1. Did you insulate the sides as well as the top? 2. Is there a place in the bottom to slide a board to look for mites? and 3. have you ever considered making the entrance in the middle and using two queen extractors, thus keeping the brood in the center of the hive?
Those are great questions, and I don't use queen excluders as they naturally sort their resources as they go farther from the single entrance, ending in nothing but honey at the far interior. You can see the details in the plans on this page: www.fredsfinefowl.com/printsforyou.html
As your hives get older and rickety do you use supports to bolster them and get another decade out of them or do you replace them? I just picked up about 15 old hives with frames for 2/3. They are about 20+ years old and need attention. For $10 each I thought it would be cheaper to fix these up and give them another 20 years rather than build all new ones…is this a mistake? (I’m a finish cabinet maker so I really think there is still value to these old heavily made professional hives)…but I don’t have the beekeeping experience.
does the long hive reduce the beetle and mite problems?Its the concentration of CO2 in your breath thry react to.Glad to see that you dont wear a space suit- I work them in short sleeves
I always invite beekeepers to dress to what level makes them comfortable. This hive configuration isn't necessarily better and concentrating CO2 or even the high humidity levels that the standard Lang hives benefit from in natural/passibe varroa management.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Did I miss why ? Is the long hive for reproduction / increase as my friends have asked how do you steal the honey
Rough sawn boards facing the interior are always the best choice if you're trying to encourage propolis envelopes. Marla Spivak has done, and is doing, fantastic research in that are of hive material management. I am still not settled on my final Long Langstroth Design.... BUT, when I do it, the plans will be free on my website.
Fantastic video! Have you considered rotating your frames to harvest honey? Pushing the older cells farther from the entrance to encourage honey storage? Thank you! I watched 100% of this video!
Watching this video for the 3+ time! If you make the divider board all the way to the bottom you’ll eventually run into the problem where you’ll have bees trapped on the wrong side of the hive and they will die.
HI George, if they couldn't get to the "wrong side" how will they end up trapped and dead? The Layens Hive had a divider/follower board and no escape route on the other side of it. So, I'm not understanding the concern there. Thanks for commenting. My next version of this will have a divider that goes to the bottom and sides won't permit bee-travel.
amzn.to/3P6KzCD I keep two of them, one charging and take the other along for inspections. Easy to clean, easy to release the bees and it doesn't harm them.
Hi, my name's Fred, plastic bottle hives would be illegal here since all hives need to remain inspectable with removable frames. The larger frame-style plastic bottles are more suited to warm climates, so not practical here in the northern cold.
Frederick I bought 6 frames on 16th July. I took out the white plastic sheet under the 1/8 inch stainless mesh floor. I could noit see any varroa but saw 5 small caterpillars that were thin and grey and soft which I killed. I wonder what they were ? Should I contact the chap I bought them off to tell him. I got 6 of 'his' frames with bees on them and of course brood and about 10000 Buckfast bees which were put into my new Langstroth hive. I am disappointed to see them. I am keen of course re what to do? Please can you advise. There is always something. I wished I had drawn that catch plastic sheet much sooner than after a month of the new colony being brought to it's new location here.
Hi Michael, those sound to me like small hive beetle larvae... if you roll them between your fingers and thumb, they should feel rubbery and a little tough. Those would be the SHB larvae, but if you roll them between your fingers and thumb and they are easily smushed or damaged, then I suspect young wax moth larvae... there are other differences, but those are the easiest on the spot assessments :)
Hello Just finished building my long hive along w frames. I built 30 frames. At what number of frames should I place the excluded for the first set of honey bees. I can't imagine I will hold more than 4 or 5 frames first season of bees.. I really do appreciate answers as no one I know has a long hive and anyone w whom I have talked has been negative about them Thanks again
I don't actually use a queen excluder on any of my horizontal hives. I've found that they are very good at keeping their brood nearer the entrance (once the colony is well settled) and then the frames all the way at the opposite end end up being nothing but honey even without the queen excluder. I'll be talking more about this during the summer of 2022. I hope the people you talk with eventually become more inclusive regarding your choice of hive equipment. The biology and bee management remain the same :)
Also, I am intrigued by this type of design as a smaller woman who will probably be handling the frames/boxes myself. Do they overwinter an Illinois climate well in this? How does the honey harvest compare to a traditional hive? Thank you!
Honey production is improved by the verticle hive configurations, but this hive produced about 21 lbs of removable honey. BUT, colony strength was low. A verticle hive with the same size/population of honey bees most often yeilds two or three times that amount. Heat control is better with verticle cavities over horizontal, so less honey is consumed by the workers. This colony also had to build lots of wax comb and that also reduces the surplus honey stores.
Oh wow that’s great to know. I didn’t realize there was such a large difference in production potential, that might change my mind about the type of hive. We love honey! Thank you.
@@FrederickDunn is there such a thing as a vertically stacking layens? Or do they just get too high? I like the idea of the depth of the layen frame being more natural to bees, but also like the idea of increased honey with the vertical configuration. Might need a ladder haha.
Great video! Such peaceful bees! I did have a question for you beginners beekeeping videos … how do bees manage old pollen frames … do they eventually clean them up and reuse them?
They do clean them out when there is nothing else to do in the hive. BUT, it's one of the last clean-up duties they peform. If the frames are already old, I just pull them out.
Fred, I have a new horizontal hive built that is insulated and best for winter. I have a very strong colony I would like to move into it. However, it's not going to be 3 feet or 3 miles away. Any recommendations on how to make that transition without causing havoc to the hive?
I found out that you are from Pennsylvania. I'm from the Philadelphia area. I need to start converting my hives to long hives because of my shoulders. My concern is overwintering success rates for my area. Any suggestions?
pulling up individual pieces leaves the rest of the colony covered which keeps them more calm. Also, larger sheets of material are more difficult to pry up once glued down with propolis. Most of the Long Lang designs have smaller cover boards than those I use. Just more convenient and I can move the one with the feeder opening directly over the brood which moves as winter progresses. On a cold day, I can still pull a couple of boards without exposing the brood area to a blast of cold air.
They still accept the divider board as the hive boundary. They treat that passage like a small entrance. Dr. Leo says that he likes them to "not be surprised" when the hive expands. In my next Long Lang, my divider board will not permit that passage by the bees.
How do you not squish bees when frames touch each other on their sides? I always seem to have several bees preventing me from placing frames back into the super/brood box. I am worried that queen might be hurt similar way as well, especially if I did not see her.
If you want bees to draw out foundation, put one frame in the center of the brood area and the queen will fill the foundation with eggs and now the workers will draw out the foundation for the hatching eggs. I would also feed them with 1:1 sugar water so they are not using honey to draw out the foundation but will use the sugar water. Also, the queen does not need to inspect each cell prior laying an egg but can easily see that she can lay her egg in the next cell, soooo she will lay 3-4 possibly more times as many eggs as she could in a fully drawn out foundation. Again, be sure to feed the hive so even at night the bees can use the sugar water to draw out the foundation for the larvae being hatched.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, they do much better when not fed sugar syrup when there is a strong nectar flow on. I may not feed this colony at all this year.
Not according to the latest scientific studies. However, not all States have adopted and approved OAV for use with honey supers on though the results have shown that pre-treatment and post-treatment honey testing has demonstrated no measurable difference in OA content. If you ate a pound of carrots, and some people do, you've actually consumed an entire dose of OA. The agencies that make our food decisions have demonstrated that they are not concerned with OA levels in honey.
@@FrederickDunn bee Weaver . I called and left a message about the queen issue when they get back in touch with me I'll leave a message and let you know what they say
Hello Mr. Dunn my dad and I built our first bee hive box and next spring we are going to order bee's for it we live in Illinois 45min South of Chicago I was wondering what kind of bee's you would recommend for our area and for first timers thank you for your content and your opinion
Locally adapted bees would be great to start off with. I'd get in touch with your local beekeeping organization and get some feedback on favorable traits and who's selling nucleus colonies for spring delivery :)
I personally wouldn't attempt to add Flow-Frames to the horizontal format. They perform much better with the vertical Langstroth. You'd need a tipping mechanism to tilt the flow-frames back 2 degrees for harvesting. I think just pulling frames full of surplus honey would be good enough. Just my personal take on that.
The cover image of this video, is the vac leaning against the corner post of the hive with the container open... the bees just walk up the angle iron as shown and re-enter the hive :)
@@FrederickDunn My method for my Long Langstroth Hive is picking them up one by one by allowing them on my finger or a small stick and placing each nurse bee at the entrance. That vac would save a lot of time.
Fred, I have two deeps that have been together for the past year, I have been sick this summer and haven't been able to deal with my hive. Lost a swarm in the spring, now that the flow is on I was wondering if I can put a third deep on. Thanks so much for your video's. We have a 🐝 club here and they aren't much help. Can't get anyone to come out to help. Looking forward to more of your video's.
Hi Fredrick. I have been watching you for a year or more and subscribed a few months ago. You have awesome experience and information! I have a very unique question for you. How would you control Varroa mite introduction to an island that is varroa mite, small hive beetle, honeybee tracheal mite and greater wax moth Free?. We presently have regulations in place to import honey bees but we expect some smuggling will occur anyway. That will destroy the only disease free honey bee environment in North America. See; Newfoundland honey bees. Many island beekeepers already do inspections for disease but I don't think We are as diligent as we should be. Complacency I guess. I would love to hear your take on our unique situation and what you would recommend. Thank you.
Hi Ken, I think I would model the restrictions after Australia as they have benefitted from being mite-free so far. They have also set up sentinel hives with sensors that detect mites as an early alert system. Requiring all beekeepers to register and have receipt inspections for their stock would also be very helpful in my opinion. Another great opportunity you have there would be to agree on some specific genetic traits for your bees and flood the area with those which may possibly be survivor stock. Even when you bring in queens, they can be carriers of some diseases, so I think you definitely have your work cut out for you. Sorry that I'm just now seeing your coment.
Hello Frederick what a great looking hive an great camera work now if you could get your camera to get my eye’s to focus better you would be the best . Lol . Those frames in this hive are they regular deep frames or are they deeper than regular deep . The video makes them look deeper . Really enjoy your information an video’s. Thanks
@@FrederickDunn Last I see in the video is it's on the ground then a really quick shot of something metal like a strip. lol. I figured you let them back in but I was like.... Wait... where. lol
Hi Fred, thanks for another great video. I’m curious about some of your gear. Your shirt and pants look lightweight and comfortable. Would you mind sharing a little about your equipment and clothing? Are those magnetic belts available for purchase somewhere? (I think I recall you saying a friend/viewer may have made that for you.) What’s your favorite veil? Thanks for everything!
HI Hyle! I am a fan of Omni-shade shirts, super thin and a light breeze goes right through them. I found this less expensive shirt via Amazon... ATG by Wrangler Men's Long Sleeve Mixed Material Shirt. The pants are the ones that zip apart and become shorts, I'm often in and out of water and need material the dries fast.... this is what they are: CQR Men's Convertible Cargo Pants, Water Repellent Hiking Pants, Zip Off Lightweight Stretch UPF 50+ Work Outdoor Pants. The magnetic belt is from BetterBee and is on their website... tell them Frederick Dunn sent you :)
If you've not noticed it, you're doing good. There are diseases that cause the bees to crawl on the ground in front of the hive.. several, so if you ever notice that happening, it's time to pay attention to other symptoms. Bee paralyses, insecticide poisoning, deformed wing virus, and others can all result in crawling bees. Just something to definitely pay attention to.
There are already so many honey harvest videos out there. If I think it could lend some additional information then yes, there will be a traditional harvest and flow-harvest.
@@FrederickDunn I will say this: your channel offers a unique perspective no matter the topic, and I have enjoyed your previous honey harvest videos immensely. It's your narration & attention to detail that makes it so interesting. But no pressure ;)
Пчелы спокойные! 👍 ручные, довольные! Дамы пчелиные красавицы! Неописуемые! Умница! Видно пчёлы доверяют господину пчеловоду! Что Библия говорит о мёд. Перевод «Новый мир» (2007) Притчи 24:13 13Сын мой, ешь мёд, потому что он хорош. Сладкий сотовый мёд пусть будет на твоём нёбе.
Wait... You can't end it there! You vacuumed them up, what did you do then??? Did you just pull off the container and let them walk out or did you machine gun them out? In all seriousness, (though I do still want to know), excellent video! I appreciate the walk through. I can't have bees where I'm at currently, but I'm hoping in a few years to be able to, so I've been looking up videos like yours and educating myself in preparation. Thank you for the wonderful tutorial!
Ha I like your bee suite and the tool belt where did u get it thanks mine is so hot I wear jacket and veil i get stung trough my jeans at times It is so very hot here I wish I could just wear a veil but when I do I get stung on my arms have a great day great video thanks
That magnetic tool holder comes from BetterBee, it's on their website. When I'm just wearing regular clothes, I like it because it keeps my pants clean :)
I enjoy the raw uncut filming 👍 it's more like being in the yard. Thanks Fred
Thanks so much!
under cover 3/4, it looked like you didn't push frames toward the brood end (time 21:30) thought I might have missed, but, didn't notice you move your follower board, on camera also. many thanks. Great inspection!!
I pressed all frames toward the entrance end, and the follower board was also pressed up against the last frame. I should have done a close up of that last move. Thanks for mentioning it.
@@FrederickDunn I thought I saw the same thing as Tom. Good to hear that I just missed that “press” maneuver. I know (from a learning experience) that the bees will attach comb to the cover boards if the frames are not pushed together.
I also thought I saw that. Looked like a gap.
As someone looking to get into beekeeping, I’ve ordered a flow hive kit, this was tho most informative video I’ve watched out of about 20! I’m in Australia and we’re just heading into summer. Thank you Mr Dunn.
Glad it was helpful! And I hope your Flow-Hive system serves you well there :)
THANKS Fred! Time Well spent when 'my turn' comes. well if, and can never really turn down more Lessons of Learning.
Eventually this will be automatic 'Replay' in my head. Appreciate the time to show off the Girls. How nice to see all doing Well.
Thank you Karen and I'm sure you will do extremely well :) I have a hard time complying with time restraints :)
Great video , glad you found the queen and she wasn’t playing hide and seek this week 😀🇬🇧
I really enjoyed watching the frame by frame inspection. I have 2 long langs and your inspection was very informative and I learned a lot of new things just from it. Thanks for the great video.
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy your inspection videos! You explain things very well.
It's also nice to see that even the great Mr Dunn gets excited to see full frames of brood and the queen. lol
Thanks for the video and as always thank you for sharing your knowledge!! Have a great weekend!
It's always exciting :) Thank you so much!
Thanks!
John! Thank you so much! I hope your project goes perfectly!
Great video Fred. You’re a great teacher and I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that feedback. :)
Idea for you: glass panes can be integrated into the inner cover boards to serve as a propolis trap - some light will come through the ventilation in the main cover, and the bees will want to block it out. When you're ready to harvest the propolis, you can just scrape it off the glass with a razor blade.
You are quite simply the best Fred!
Thank you Buzz :)
Great video! My dad expressed an idea for a horizontal hive like this when I was a kid in 1978 but we never did try to make one. Also it's amazing how relaxed that hive is!! They barely even take notice of you poking around.,
Keeping the experience uneventful for the bees goes a long way in keeping them calm during subsequent visits. Yes, the long lang, or other horizontal hive configurations have been around for a very very long time.
Mr. Dunn, I took your advice and used some silicone and caulked up the inside edges of my horizontal hive to stop the bees from climbing under the lid instead of through the entrance. It worked a charm and now the ladies are all using the proper entrance. I used a variation of the box within a box design and filled the insulation area with cedar chips marketed as pet bedding.
That is fantastic news, glad it helped!
There is always that one psycho guard bee who is bucking for employee of the month.
😂🤣🙃
Hi Dunn! I’m watching a little’! I like your horizontal hive! I remember my grandfather have before in Ukraine. Nice frame with broods you have! You have a great time and stay more healthy! We waiting a new season.
Thank you, Mr. Dunn! Love your videos and your sense of humor!
Fred, your long hive is looking good. From looking at that brood pattern, I think you have a layer there! Great detailed video.
I think that if I were the queen bee and my minions were making queen cells….I’d step up egg production and go on some propaganda tours to raise the hive morale! If you only live a couple months you don’t really want to get stung to death and replaced with my own daughter by disgruntled minions…
Great video! I love how you explain your thinking. At 41:00 there was still a gap between frames when you replaced the cover boards, so I guess the bees will festoon from the cover boards and then draw foundationless comb to fill the space. If I tried to film, I would forget way more things than that!
Nope.. there is no gap... when I was putting the cover boards back on, you'll see my hand go under them as I press up the frames also. I'll show that in the next update video. I also pressed up the divider board against the last frame. You are right, if those frames had been left spread out, they would begin to use the space and would draw comb down from the cover board interior surfaces.
@@FrederickDunn I see you push the divider at 42:55 but I can't tell how far. Hopefully no bees get smashed. I use center entrances and two dividers. Inspections move the colony a little to one side or the other. Thanks again for your great videos!
Fred thanks for the good video.I hope that they do well this winter.I cut the corners off all of the foundations and none are all of the way closed. There is small holes in the tops and bigger holes in the bottoms.
Hi Charles, ya, it's a good move to keep those transit and venting routes open. They do leave the larger travel routes open in the foundationless comb frames, so it also makes sense that they leave the bottom corners more open than the upper. Thanks for sharing!
I always find larvae but wow, I have 20/20 vision and can never find eggs! Maybe first year beekeeper problems.
I really appreciate your content! Your willingness to take your time and your calm demeanor is very pleasant.
It's one those things that when you do finally see eggs, you'll notice them everywhere. Training the eye is a big part of beekeeping. An inability to find and identify eggs may be one of the most challenging aspects for new or elderly beekeepers. Thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment.
Yet another video worth watching! You never disappoint Fred 😉. I do enjoy your inspections.
Thank you so much Terri! :)
Thank you Frederick. They do seem soft and they were about 15 to 20mm. I hope to do another inspection Monday & will look at all the frames in the brood box to see if we can see anything that might add to define what they are. Ill make sure to eliminate anything we see that is abnormal.
Fantastic, Fred! I was there with you all the way… for a non bee keeper it was a gr8 experience. Many thanks for taking us on this journey. Hope to see many more similar videos after the nectar flow and during honey harvest both conventional and Flow Hive as a contrast. Mead time now! 😉🍻
Thanks John! I'm glad you took the time to watch and enjoyed it. Yep, I'm looking forward to mead making this fall.
@@FrederickDunn … pity it takes so long to “mature”.
At 33:30 - 33:35while showing us your brood eggs there was a cell in the middle right side looked like there were multiple eggs in a cell. Does that mean there could be an egg laying worker?
An egg producing worker can show up, in theory, at anytime and the nurse bees just police them up. New queens are also prone to drop two in a single cell from time to time.
Great Video @ 41:37 it look like you left a void, did not close up the frames when replacing the top board ?
Great catch, I had to go back and push the frames back together.
finally you made a vid worth watching!!! really liked this one. keepem comning!
Thank you, that's good feedback, I think?
Damn! That praise was faint….LOL
@@58Kym
That's what I was thinking. 🤔
Ouch! 😂
i like the othervids too i meant this is a reallyh good one! no hate!
This is a wonderful video
While showing your frames you are tilting the frame you need to hold it up vertical so we an try to see the eggs.
Funny how when you brought that one frame close, i could smell propolis and bees wax. Power of suggestion. Very interesting seeing how your long lang is doing.
About 3 frames back I saw from where you pulled up and showed us brood, I think I saw a queen... She was twice as long as the others.
if you can provide a time reference, I'll take a look :) Thanks so much.
While in the bush in u.s. i downloaded a bunch of your videos. I must say, that was the best intro with the first 22sec xD
Wow, thanks!
@@FrederickDunn i love your videos. Youre my bob ross
At 33:11, I though I saw a Queen in the bottom right corner of the frame. Could it be that there are two? Can you see the one I mean if you skip to that time?
Hi Mindy, it's very common for new beekeepers to see drones and think they have found the queen. Good eye, that's a drone. But there are instances where more than one queen occupy the same colony.
Great video Mr Dunn I always enjoy your videos they are great
Thank you, Frances! It's always nice to see your comments :)
Love watching your videos. Thanks
I really appreciate that, thank you :)
Excellent teaching ! well done Fred
Thank you so much!
Hello Fred please can you advise how I transfer a national frame with queen in to a top bar hive which has no queen ?
I was wondering what winter looks like in a long langstroth. Do the bees in fact move sideways 1mm a day like they would move upwards in a vertical hive in winter? Thanks! Still watching the video.
I don't know about moving laterally one mm per day, but they will have to move along the length of the hive or they will expire due to starvation.
I'm assuming that they will in fact move horizontally? Do you know anyone who has consistently used long langstroth with positive results?
Great video, thanks for your work. the information you provide is appreciated. I was wondering how your Layens hive is developing, looking forward to that video. Thank you from North Idaho.
I'll be putting the Layens sequences together soon.
Fantastic teaching episode Fredrick. Thanks for sharing TrickyTrev 🇦🇺👍🐝🍯
Kindly share specifications of the horizontal longstroght hive, how long and the Nati griti, as in size of frame, etc
Hello Joseph, the plans are all on my website FREE, here is the link: www.fredsfinefowl.com/printsforyou.html
First time viewer, so hello! Really liked your video. I got a layens swarm catcher and built a layens long hive last summer and am looking forward to having bees next spring. I hope they are as happy as yours are. I liked the way you kept the bees calm as you went through the hive. That seems like the way it should be done. You really should edit out the bits that deal with video production. Viewers are watching to see the bees, not to see how you setup your cameras and shots. Question: how do the bees benefit from frequent inspections? I would think that normal inspections would be limited and focus on making sure the hive has space for storage during flows and deep inspections would be limited to times when there is an obvious problem. Also do you use the divider board to make splits in your long hive?
Hi Keith, many viewers ask about equipment so I can't please everyone. This particular video was an exam for Cornell University and edits were not permitted, normally I do edit the videos. The fewer inspections you perform, the better off the bees are. I try to convince keepers that they really should have a good reason for opening the hive, and other then during educational videos like this one it's best to keep those visits as brief as possible. Sorry you were bothered by having to see the cameras, that's not what I normally do.
Well , I wasn’t gonna do it but I’m at Home Depot now buying materials to build a horizontal hive 😂😂I talked myself out of it more than into it but tonight I’m gonna build one 😝 I will post a pic on your Fb page when I’m done , I have a couple design ideas, I’m gonna use a telescopic lid and it will attach to the back side as a work table when it’s off and I’m going to insulate the walls and roof and add articulating vents 🤓
The good news is that you can build that thing as big and heavy as you want to. It's a stationary hive that you never have to lift, so just put everything you ever wanted right on it! Mine isn't strapped down at all, and it's handled 56 mph winds this past winter without the slightest budge. Heavily insulate that cover, and leave yourself plenty of working space and you're IN. The Long Langstroth is my favorite hive to work. If I've helped you on your way to the poor house and emptied your wallet... well, you're welcome! :)
@@FrederickDunn I was thinking I better make it like a battleship so it can handle Armageddon lol
Fred.. I believe at some point you mentioned something along the lines of what I'm about to ask. Maybe it was in this video.. because bees move more vertical than lateral over winter, and because when a feral colony builds in between floor or ceiling joists, the comb tends to be built in the direction of the joists.. if there was some way to install frames the long way in a long hive, would lateral movement be better? Would they winter better? Have you experimented with this? I often wonder about this and also how to implement this end-to-end frame alignment while maintaining frame support and proper bee space. Anyway.. maybe something to ponder and talk about in a future video.
That's a great question, but given their handling of this configuration, I think the orientation of the frames isn't significant. It's definitely easier to manage bee-space with this setup. If we ran then end-to-end, we'd definitely need to put support struts in since we can't have them hanging the comb from the cover as they would in a feral cavity setup.
Thank you Frederick...... I didn't say it but I also found a moth, dead on the white correx board with the 5 maggots. I am wondering due to having a floor that is 3.3mm stainless mesh I wonder if the moth could have laid it's eggs under the mesh in the wax & debris that was laying on the plastic catch sheet? I must do that inspection but it was poor weather today drizzling. I noted the weather did not stop those hard workers from continuing with their foraging. First light they were coming and going whatever the weather.
I was amused and wary at the same time, because I shone an led light into the underfloor compartment and noticed there was a little more gap of about 3mm at the right of the floor when I accessed the removable cover to get the undersheet out.......loads of eyes and in a scuffle to get through that 3mm gap. When they found they could not get through they quietly went away....phew. To be sure, I'll be tightening that gap for the future because otherwise the bees that get through might end up on the surface of the catch sheet that is now sticky!
Another great video. Very thorough. Thanks so much
You are very welcome Peter!
Dear Frederick... I've just seen an article by the government which says UK does not allow any importation of bees from Italy where some SHB exist. I think it confirmed there are no hive beetle in the UK so it seems that the small grey larvae are probably wax moth. The foundations/combs cannot be sprayed with bees on them apparently.
On inspection I must pay attention to what I see tomorrow when I inspect everything within the hive.
I see the light colour telltale track can be seen on careful inspection and the wax moth larvae removed. I am keen to do what can be done to eliminate that pest. Thanks for your valued help.
Strong colonies have no problems dealing with the wax moth larvae... so that's actually the solution. Hives sized right for the resident bee numbers.
Those are some chill bees.
Indeed they are.
Question, although I started beekeeping the first time in 1971 there wasn’t mite issues when I started and//or stopped beekeeping but being a woodworker I have used O/A in woodworking but that’s my extent of its use , now we did use thyme oil for other critters, my main question is have you ever used apiguard or thyme oil, thymox, thymol for treatment for varoa destructors? And if so were you successful? For some reason I want to lean to the most natural form of hygiene whether it’s biological with hygienic species, drone framing , thyme product or apiguard , I know that O/A is an organic material but to me it’s a little more harsh , so your opinion and advice is appreciated and respected as well as Dr. Leo , I love that Russian dude 😋you two are my favorite fellas next to my late great mentor uncle Parks 🙂
Hi David, since my control efforts have been satisfied with IPM and OAV alone, I haven't had to step on to my Formic Pro Packs at all, and two cases of that just sat on the shelf and expired. (';')... Apiguard is a Thymol based product and is VERY strong.. P. U. ! But then, so is Formic Pro, and they are temperature sensitive. I actually consider OAV to be a mild/soft treatment when used correctly. I use it when there are brood breaks, including when I find a queenless colony, or installing a swarm, or after making a split. You can knock down your mite levels so much in winter, that the mites have a hard time rebounding through the year. ONE mite-infested colony can change everything. You can't use Apiguard with honey supers on, but you can use OAV with supers on. Lots to consider. Genetics are the future, but we need to help them along while the breeders do their thing :)
I'm just getting started in beekeeping and I love the idea of the Long Langstroth hive. I want to build my own but I have a few questions. 1. Did you insulate the sides as well as the top? 2. Is there a place in the bottom to slide a board to look for mites? and 3. have you ever considered making the entrance in the middle and using two queen extractors, thus keeping the brood in the center of the hive?
Those are great questions, and I don't use queen excluders as they naturally sort their resources as they go farther from the single entrance, ending in nothing but honey at the far interior. You can see the details in the plans on this page: www.fredsfinefowl.com/printsforyou.html
As your hives get older and rickety do you use supports to bolster them and get another decade out of them or do you replace them? I just picked up about 15 old hives with frames for 2/3. They are about 20+ years old and need attention. For $10 each I thought it would be cheaper to fix these up and give them another 20 years rather than build all new ones…is this a mistake? (I’m a finish cabinet maker so I really think there is still value to these old heavily made professional hives)…but I don’t have the beekeeping experience.
Hmmm, I'll talk about this today :) in the Q&A
@@FrederickDunn 🤗
What plans did you use to build your hive? Great job! I'd like to use pine!
Oh links in the description!
Which state and town you are located in?
does the long hive reduce the beetle and mite problems?Its the concentration of CO2 in your breath thry react to.Glad to see that you dont wear a space suit- I work them in short sleeves
I always invite beekeepers to dress to what level makes them comfortable. This hive configuration isn't necessarily better and concentrating CO2 or even the high humidity levels that the standard Lang hives benefit from in natural/passibe varroa management.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Did I miss why ? Is the long hive for reproduction / increase as my friends have asked how do you steal the honey
Honey removal is the same as with other hive designs. You just pull surplus frames of honey frame by frame rather than entire boxes.
Do the frames reach all the way to the sides and bottom of the bee box? Do the bees get squished when you place the frames back in? Thanks
Same clearances as a standard Langstroth Hive. If you are careful, no need to smush any bees and hear that crunch-of-death. True with any hive.
Question- do you think the rough cut boards are best or smooth cut?
(2) do you have plans for replicating your hive?
Rough sawn boards facing the interior are always the best choice if you're trying to encourage propolis envelopes. Marla Spivak has done, and is doing, fantastic research in that are of hive material management. I am still not settled on my final Long Langstroth Design.... BUT, when I do it, the plans will be free on my website.
Fantastic video! Have you considered rotating your frames to harvest honey? Pushing the older cells farther from the entrance to encourage honey storage?
Thank you! I watched 100% of this video!
Excellent videos!
What type of magnetic hive tool bet holder did you use in the video?
That holder comes from BetterBee, it's their own design.
Likely a BeeSmart magnetic hive tool holder.
Watching this video for the 3+ time! If you make the divider board all the way to the bottom you’ll eventually run into the problem where you’ll have bees trapped on the wrong side of the hive and they will die.
HI George, if they couldn't get to the "wrong side" how will they end up trapped and dead? The Layens Hive had a divider/follower board and no escape route on the other side of it. So, I'm not understanding the concern there. Thanks for commenting. My next version of this will have a divider that goes to the bottom and sides won't permit bee-travel.
if you mark the frames with the order, and you add frames in a checkerboard fashion, how do you number those?
I date the new frames for future reference.
where did you get the vacuum cleaner, please maybe the make? thanks.
amzn.to/3P6KzCD I keep two of them, one charging and take the other along for inspections. Easy to clean, easy to release the bees and it doesn't harm them.
Just wondering what hand held vacuum you are using?
Shark CH901 UltraCyclone Pro Cordless Handheld Vacuum, with XL Dust Cup, in Green
Nice job Fred. Thanks!!!!
Thanks for watching Rodney :)
Hey Jeff I would like to see if you have heard of plastic bottle hives and do you think they would work?
Hi, my name's Fred, plastic bottle hives would be illegal here since all hives need to remain inspectable with removable frames. The larger frame-style plastic bottles are more suited to warm climates, so not practical here in the northern cold.
Frederick I bought 6 frames on 16th July. I took out the white plastic sheet under the 1/8 inch stainless mesh floor. I could noit see any varroa but saw 5 small caterpillars that were thin and grey and soft which I killed. I wonder what they were ? Should I contact the chap I bought them off to tell him. I got 6 of 'his' frames with bees on them and of course brood and about 10000 Buckfast bees which were put into my new Langstroth hive. I am disappointed to see them. I am keen of course re what to do? Please can you advise. There is always something.
I wished I had drawn that catch plastic sheet much sooner than after a month of the new colony being brought to it's new location here.
Hi Michael, those sound to me like small hive beetle larvae... if you roll them between your fingers and thumb, they should feel rubbery and a little tough. Those would be the SHB larvae, but if you roll them between your fingers and thumb and they are easily smushed or damaged, then I suspect young wax moth larvae... there are other differences, but those are the easiest on the spot assessments :)
Hello
Just finished building my long hive along w frames. I built 30 frames. At what number of frames should I place the excluded for the first set of honey bees. I can't imagine I will hold more than 4 or 5 frames first season of bees..
I really do appreciate answers as no one I know has a long hive and anyone w whom I have talked has been negative about them
Thanks again
I don't actually use a queen excluder on any of my horizontal hives. I've found that they are very good at keeping their brood nearer the entrance (once the colony is well settled) and then the frames all the way at the opposite end end up being nothing but honey even without the queen excluder. I'll be talking more about this during the summer of 2022. I hope the people you talk with eventually become more inclusive regarding your choice of hive equipment. The biology and bee management remain the same :)
@@FrederickDunn Many thanks sir :)
Excellent video. Thank you !!
Glad you liked it!
Also, I am intrigued by this type of design as a smaller woman who will probably be handling the frames/boxes myself. Do they overwinter an Illinois climate well in this? How does the honey harvest compare to a traditional hive? Thank you!
Honey production is improved by the verticle hive configurations, but this hive produced about 21 lbs of removable honey. BUT, colony strength was low. A verticle hive with the same size/population of honey bees most often yeilds two or three times that amount. Heat control is better with verticle cavities over horizontal, so less honey is consumed by the workers. This colony also had to build lots of wax comb and that also reduces the surplus honey stores.
Oh wow that’s great to know. I didn’t realize there was such a large difference in production potential, that might change my mind about the type of hive. We love honey! Thank you.
@@FrederickDunn is there such a thing as a vertically stacking layens? Or do they just get too high? I like the idea of the depth of the layen frame being more natural to bees, but also like the idea of increased honey with the vertical configuration. Might need a ladder haha.
Great video! Such peaceful bees! I did have a question for you beginners beekeeping videos … how do bees manage old pollen frames … do they eventually clean them up and reuse them?
They do clean them out when there is nothing else to do in the hive. BUT, it's one of the last clean-up duties they peform. If the frames are already old, I just pull them out.
Fred, I have a new horizontal hive built that is insulated and best for winter. I have a very strong colony I would like to move into it. However, it's not going to be 3 feet or 3 miles away. Any recommendations on how to make that transition without causing havoc to the hive?
you could begin moving the current resident hive towards your long lang in increments and then when they are close enough, make that transfer :)
@@FrederickDunn Thank you Fred.
I found out that you are from Pennsylvania. I'm from the Philadelphia area. I need to start converting my hives to long hives because of my shoulders. My concern is overwintering success rates for my area.
Any suggestions?
Once I eliminated the top vents and insulated the covers, they are winter-ready. Makes a big difference.
Why could you not use a single piece of plywood as a coverboard? Maybe install hinges on it also?
pulling up individual pieces leaves the rest of the colony covered which keeps them more calm. Also, larger sheets of material are more difficult to pry up once glued down with propolis. Most of the Long Lang designs have smaller cover boards than those I use. Just more convenient and I can move the one with the feeder opening directly over the brood which moves as winter progresses. On a cold day, I can still pull a couple of boards without exposing the brood area to a blast of cold air.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you 😊
What's the purpose of the divider board if the bees can go back and forth?
They still accept the divider board as the hive boundary. They treat that passage like a small entrance. Dr. Leo says that he likes them to "not be surprised" when the hive expands. In my next Long Lang, my divider board will not permit that passage by the bees.
How do you not squish bees when frames touch each other on their sides? I always seem to have several bees preventing me from placing frames back into the super/brood box. I am worried that queen might be hurt similar way as well, especially if I did not see her.
Slow and steady tends to work and you can give some tiny puffs of smoke to ease them along out of the way. It's really trial and error.
If you want bees to draw out foundation, put one frame in the center of the brood area and the queen will fill the foundation with eggs and now the workers will draw out the foundation for the hatching eggs. I would also feed them with 1:1 sugar water so they are not using honey to draw out the foundation but will use the sugar water. Also, the queen does not need to inspect each cell prior laying an egg but can easily see that she can lay her egg in the next cell, soooo she will lay 3-4 possibly more times as many eggs as she could in a fully drawn out foundation. Again, be sure to feed the hive so even at night the bees can use the sugar water to draw out the foundation for the larvae being hatched.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, they do much better when not fed sugar syrup when there is a strong nectar flow on. I may not feed this colony at all this year.
Can OAVaporization hurt or damage honey stores?
Not according to the latest scientific studies. However, not all States have adopted and approved OAV for use with honey supers on though the results have shown that pre-treatment and post-treatment honey testing has demonstrated no measurable difference in OA content. If you ate a pound of carrots, and some people do, you've actually consumed an entire dose of OA. The agencies that make our food decisions have demonstrated that they are not concerned with OA levels in honey.
Is there a reason you don't use the believer in your long hives
Not sure what a "believer" is?
@@FrederickDunn bee Weaver . I called and left a message about the queen issue when they get back in touch with me I'll leave a message and let you know what they say
Hello Mr. Dunn my dad and I built our first bee hive box and next spring we are going to order bee's for it we live in Illinois 45min South of Chicago I was wondering what kind of bee's you would recommend for our area and for first timers thank you for your content and your opinion
Locally adapted bees would be great to start off with. I'd get in touch with your local beekeeping organization and get some feedback on favorable traits and who's selling nucleus colonies for spring delivery :)
Great video! If you wanted to harvest honey from the horizontal hive, could you modify it to use flow frames?
I personally wouldn't attempt to add Flow-Frames to the horizontal format. They perform much better with the vertical Langstroth. You'd need a tipping mechanism to tilt the flow-frames back 2 degrees for harvesting. I think just pulling frames full of surplus honey would be good enough. Just my personal take on that.
Do the nurse bees in the vacuum get dumped out at the hive entrance to return to the colony?
The cover image of this video, is the vac leaning against the corner post of the hive with the container open... the bees just walk up the angle iron as shown and re-enter the hive :)
@@FrederickDunn Awesome, thanks for the reply, overlooked the thumbnail lol.
@@cbbees1468 No problem, and I love that little vac btw... I've often spent so much time just getting workers out of the way. :)
@@FrederickDunn My method for my Long Langstroth Hive is picking them up one by one by allowing them on my finger or a small stick and placing each nurse bee at the entrance.
That vac would save a lot of time.
Fred, I have two deeps that have been together for the past year, I have been sick this summer and haven't been able to deal with my hive. Lost a swarm in the spring, now that the flow is on I was wondering if I can put a third deep on. Thanks so much for your video's. We have a 🐝 club here and they aren't much help. Can't get anyone to come out to help.
Looking forward to more of your video's.
Unless you want to be lifting 78 lbs or more per box, I'd consider adding medium supers if they are doing well.
Hi Fredrick. I have been watching you for a year or more and subscribed a few months ago. You have awesome experience and information! I have a very unique question for you. How would you control Varroa mite introduction to an island that is varroa mite, small hive beetle, honeybee tracheal mite and greater wax moth Free?. We presently have regulations in place to import honey bees but we expect some smuggling will occur anyway. That will destroy the only disease free honey bee environment in North America. See; Newfoundland honey bees. Many island beekeepers already do inspections for disease but I don't think We are as diligent as we should be. Complacency I guess. I would love to hear your take on our unique situation and what you would recommend. Thank you.
Hi Ken, I think I would model the restrictions after Australia as they have benefitted from being mite-free so far. They have also set up sentinel hives with sensors that detect mites as an early alert system. Requiring all beekeepers to register and have receipt inspections for their stock would also be very helpful in my opinion. Another great opportunity you have there would be to agree on some specific genetic traits for your bees and flood the area with those which may possibly be survivor stock. Even when you bring in queens, they can be carriers of some diseases, so I think you definitely have your work cut out for you. Sorry that I'm just now seeing your coment.
Hello Frederick what a great looking hive an great camera work now if you could get your camera to get my eye’s to focus better you would be the best . Lol . Those frames in this hive are they regular deep frames or are they deeper than regular deep . The video makes them look deeper . Really enjoy your information an video’s. Thanks
Standard Langstroth Deep Frames. :) one of the advantages over the Layens is the compatibility with all gear.
How do you protect from hornet?
This colony defends itself very well. So, the short answer is that I don't do anything special regarding hornets.
Where did you put the bees in the vac?
At the very end of the video when I was closing up.
@@FrederickDunn Last I see in the video is it's on the ground then a really quick shot of something metal like a strip. lol. I figured you let them back in but I was like.... Wait... where. lol
Great video, thank you
Hi Fred, thanks for another great video. I’m curious about some of your gear. Your shirt and pants look lightweight and comfortable. Would you mind sharing a little about your equipment and clothing? Are those magnetic belts available for purchase somewhere? (I think I recall you saying a friend/viewer may have made that for you.) What’s your favorite veil? Thanks for everything!
HI Hyle! I am a fan of Omni-shade shirts, super thin and a light breeze goes right through them. I found this less expensive shirt via Amazon... ATG by Wrangler Men's Long Sleeve Mixed Material Shirt. The pants are the ones that zip apart and become shorts, I'm often in and out of water and need material the dries fast.... this is what they are: CQR Men's Convertible Cargo Pants, Water Repellent Hiking Pants, Zip Off Lightweight Stretch UPF 50+ Work Outdoor Pants. The magnetic belt is from BetterBee and is on their website... tell them Frederick Dunn sent you :)
@@FrederickDunn … and pay the same as Fred!
Ha forgot to ask u the bees that are being layed now are they fat bees for winter thanks
Great question, and the answer is not yet. Going int a nectar flow wouldn't stimulate them to produce the fat-bodies winter bees.
Was this part of your Cornell master beekeeper final exam?
Indeed it was and it was very hard for me to remain within the time limits! :)
You mentioned bees crawling around on the ground, what does that mean to you? Not something I have ever noticed.
If you've not noticed it, you're doing good. There are diseases that cause the bees to crawl on the ground in front of the hive.. several, so if you ever notice that happening, it's time to pay attention to other symptoms. Bee paralyses, insecticide poisoning, deformed wing virus, and others can all result in crawling bees. Just something to definitely pay attention to.
Почему зеленый цвет ульев. Он же сильно нагревается?
Я рисую свои ульи в цвета, которые не привлекают внимания издалека. В моей части страны жара не проблема, но холод может быть проблемой.
This apiary is to another level. See
Thank you.
What has happened to the layens hive?
I have a video on that in the works... coming up :)
Love this hive! If I am ever able to keep bees, I'd love to try the long lang configuration. Will we see a honey harvest video this year?
There are already so many honey harvest videos out there. If I think it could lend some additional information then yes, there will be a traditional harvest and flow-harvest.
@@FrederickDunn I will say this: your channel offers a unique perspective no matter the topic, and I have enjoyed your previous honey harvest videos immensely. It's your narration & attention to detail that makes it so interesting. But no pressure ;)
Пчелы спокойные! 👍 ручные, довольные! Дамы пчелиные красавицы! Неописуемые! Умница! Видно пчёлы доверяют господину пчеловоду!
Что Библия говорит о мёд. Перевод «Новый мир» (2007)
Притчи 24:13
13Сын мой, ешь мёд, потому что он хорош. Сладкий сотовый мёд пусть будет на твоём нёбе.
Спасибо за просмотр. Я рад, что вам понравилось, насколько спокойны пчелы. Я желаю вам всего наилучшего.
Жжжжбан без контактов адвоката Егорова !👍😝!
Wait... You can't end it there! You vacuumed them up, what did you do then??? Did you just pull off the container and let them walk out or did you machine gun them out? In all seriousness, (though I do still want to know), excellent video! I appreciate the walk through. I can't have bees where I'm at currently, but I'm hoping in a few years to be able to, so I've been looking up videos like yours and educating myself in preparation. Thank you for the wonderful tutorial!
I leaned the open vac against the hive stand near the entrance.
Great 🐝
Terrific!
I’d like to build one of these hives in the future 🍺🍺
I built one early this year, i love it so far and am excited to see how it goes through winter.
@@jamesoquinn9303 thanks 👍
Ha I like your bee suite and the tool belt where did u get it thanks mine is so hot I wear jacket and veil i get stung trough my jeans at times It is so very hot here I wish I could just wear a veil but when I do I get stung on my arms have a great day great video thanks
That magnetic tool holder comes from BetterBee, it's on their website. When I'm just wearing regular clothes, I like it because it keeps my pants clean :)
Checked out Kamon like you suggested. He seems like a really nice guy but beekeeping in short sleeves 😂yikes
He also wears his full suit, just depends on what he's up to in the bee yard :)