Welcome aboard!! Glad this series was of some help. That's the only reason I made these videos. I didn't need any special tools except for two. Although It can be done with a screwdriver I highly recommend the Briggs & Stratton valve compression tool. I use it in the video. The other tool I have purchased since this video was made was a piston ring compression tool for the size piston I have. I tried to use an automotive one and it was not fun ...it can be done, though. Just my 2C!!
To check the valves are not leaking compression you need to turn the engine over until you come to the compression stroke then move it so that it is just starting the power stroke. Then with both valves closed pour gas into the inlet manifold if gas leaks from the valve it needs ground repeat proses on exhaust . Also when you remove the head check the gasket look for black marks where the cycling ear gas may leak from.
Good video, thanks for posting. Looks like some homebrew frosty beverage at about 15 minutes. Yummy. I just got a free B/S 123K02 6.5hp motor off of craigslist. Actually runs fine, but going to break down/rebuild with my son just for fun and learning. First project like this for us, never torn down an engine before! Should be fun.
Just some positive feedback on Briggs and Stratton motors. Had two Mowers over 40 years both with side valve. I did what no one recommends ran flat out the for half an hour when new into tall grass, dropped the oil waited till cool emptied out, put in new oil .did the same again for the next half hour. then next time used like normal folks. Exception when finished hosed down while hot .cleaned perfectly then put away.Both motors gave out after 20 years with only oil,filter and plugs changed.
One thing I don't like about Briggs and Stratton is the SPRINGS. frik. I'm about to do my first lawn mower. After doing weedwackers. Your video helps on what to look forward to. Yay.
New sub, these are a great video series, I am going to work on my Craftsman mower that has a Briggs engine this winter and go through it like your doing, thank you for doing these vids they will help a lot...Real nice details like the talk on the special tools... those are key, carb tool etc...any recommends on Briggs carb tools...etc...A video on all the special small engine tools would be cool...
When you do a compression test you should be getting 50 psi the engine needs at least 50 psi to start.You are also probably getting blow by so check your Piston rings for wear or your valves or even the valve seats.
Sounds like your rings are worn and oil is entering the combustion chamber, it may be time for a ring job. Check the compression on your engine. It should be above 80 psi. Also be sure to check "blow-by" by using a leak-down tester. This can pinpoint if your rings are weak. Good luck
Hello the part @ 10:50 the valve cover with the check valve thing.... if that check valve fails could it cause issues with the carbs ability to suck fuel? Been having issues with my 500series, it will start when primed but wont suck fuel itself. I went through and replaced a bunch of stuff trying to figure out why it won't suck fuel(looking for air leak I think). So I started at the carb that stuff's all new now including gasket and diaphragm, intake manifold is good with new seal, so I kept going down intake leading to valve spring location pulled off valve cover/breather thing to inspect it and replace the seal... when I inspected it I cleaned it off and sucked on the check valve to see if it would seal and it would not, it barely even slowed down the air at all actually.
Is it true that Briggs and Stratton uses the same size cylinder heads and other parts for horse powers ranging from 15HP to 21HP? Im looking for a compatible cylinder head and sump cover for my 17HP. Can anyone explain? Thank you.
Hi I have an old b&s mower engine I’m considering rebuilding to learn which I got for free. When I turn the flywheel, can hear rubbing inside, so I suspect it’s been run without oil. Is that a sure sign it’s not worth going any further?
So, what was the problem that indicated a rebuild was needed? Reason I ask is my unit seems to have good compression and starts easily but it is burning oil almost constantly.
hey dude. i want to ask something. when i start my 5hp briggs ant stratton makes black smoke coming off my exchaust and my spark plugs turn black. can you help me with this? thanks for your attention
Your intake valve is damaged, and is the the main reason for the lack of compression, your general knowledge is handy, but you are by no means a small engine mechanic, any mechanic could spot that bad valve a mile away... Thanks for sharing
That grass in the cooling fins is whats blocking the air flow! Those metal pieces direct the air flow from the flywheel blower through the cylinder fins to cool engine! Those clogged fins contributed to the engine failure ! Keep fins clean and all metal and plastic ducting in place ,engine will overheat without them !
Also you should clean the carbon off of your piston head and your fuel mixture is running too rich thats why the carbon is building up you should probably tinker with that
I believe if you drilled holes in the fins and threw some copper tube through it and somehow water cooled it that way and whatever engine or a mini bike go kart I'm sure it's been done
Great video. Mine is a B & S 10H902, and I replaced the carb & diaphragm and it ran great one mowing. While doing some other work, two things happened: (1) I unfortunately lost the spacer (691633) that goes on the bolt holding the fuel tank--but I made a new one, hope it's the right length; and (2) the breather tube came out. I tried screwing it back in, but it's loose! If I turn it tighter, it does not line up for putting on black rubber L to carb. Engine is surging and VERY uneven. Q: Was there a gasket or O-ring to go on the threaded end of breather tube 691245? Any tips on proper re-installation of tube? Other things to check? Thanks. Jeff
How about a drill? Harbor Freight has adaptor for sockets (3 for $4), works great for me, makes starting easy or when troubleshooting, saves a lot of sweat (*L*)
You're not going to get a compression reading like that. You need to turn the engine over quickly and steadily. You're not going to get that from an impact wrench and you came really close to ruining those crankshaft threads by running the nut down with an impact wrench without anything backing up the nut. Your problem was with the valves. Not with the piston and rings. A compression test should be done with the rope starter if you're going to do a compression test.
Your exhaust valve was shot and probably the valve seat, too. You can see how low the valve sits in the seat. When the valve seat and face wear, there goes your valve lash and it's all downhill from there. The valve burns because it doesn't spend enough time on the seat each cycle to cool the valve face. In my opinion these engines in general came from the factory with the valves set WAY too tight; particularly the exhaust valve. Best thing you can do for these engines is open up the exhaust valve lash a few thousands of an inch wider than specs. They last forever that way.
Oh, and the tin shroud directs precious cooling air around the cylinder fins from the blower housing. Yes, it's there for a GOOD reason. Your cylinder will overheat badly without it.
Adam Barraclough I am answering the questions when I can get to them. I've been keeping really busy lately and don't have time to research a lot of answers. Also, some questions are better left unanswered.
So I just got this used tiller that was not cranking and tried to clean it myself. I am noobie to this and actually opened the engine. Trying to put screw it back shut but it wont shut all the way... Am I screwed?
what did you open what did you screw together why so vague these old briggs are braindead ez to fix btw just by studying it you can probably find youre prob
Will A 25 Nikkie Carburetor Of A Briggs & Straton Fit A 27 Horse Power Briggs & Straton V Two 2 Barrel John Dreer Eztrack 465 Motor Can't Find A Carb For My 27 H. p. All I Find Is A 25 H p & No One Will Tell Me If They Exchange It Is A 27 V Twin B& S Motor Willl The 25 Nikkie Fit Need Help 7
a video that was very hard to watch,,,,,had to keep fast forwarding,,,,,,,,,couldn't take all the unnecessary talk,,,,,,,,,,,,camera work was terrible........the worst was ,,,,,,,,,,,,, you don't sound like you have much experience in fact it sounded like you were doing your first engine.............
this is ahhhhhhh an engine... ahhhhhhh.... this is ahhhhhhhhhh a bolt....ahhhhhhhh.... this is a socket...ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... this is me using the socket ahhhhhhhhh...... this is a muffler... ahhhhhhhhhhh..... this is me ... ahhhhhhhh not viewing my video ahhhhhhhhhhh before i uploaded it.... ahhhhhhhhhh and seeing how dense ahhhhhhhh i sound.... with ahhhhhhhh... 1000 ahhhhhhhhhs... in my video ahhhhhhhhh..... as ahhhhhhhhhh i dont know what to ahhhhhhhh say.... ahhhhhhhhhhh ... ahhhhhhhhhh..... ahhhhhhhh... ahhhhhhhhhhh
Vas a nesesitar el manual del consumidor y un set filler gages (no se como se dice en Español).por que el manual te dice que tanto tienes que apredar o aflojar las valvulas.Lo primero que tienes que aser es qitar la tapa de la valvulas.Ya que la qites lo siqente es ver que tan flojas o apretatas estan.con el filler gage te qias para regularlas.Si no me esplique bien me puedes buscar en Facebook y con gust te mando mi numero de telefono.
Air deflectors are for well must buy a new one if you are not knowledgeable enough to rebuild it everything needs to be with cooled some sort of way obstructing that will cause failure sooner than later the engineer absolutely knows this
Welcome aboard!! Glad this series was of some help. That's the only reason I made these videos. I didn't need any special tools except for two. Although It can be done with a screwdriver I highly recommend the Briggs & Stratton valve compression tool. I use it in the video.
The other tool I have purchased since this video was made was a piston ring compression tool for the size piston I have. I tried to use an automotive one and it was not fun ...it can be done, though.
Just my 2C!!
They are amazing little motors! Thanks!!
To check the valves are not leaking compression you need to turn the engine over until you come to the compression stroke then move it so that it is just starting the power stroke. Then with both valves closed pour gas into the inlet manifold if gas leaks from the valve it needs ground repeat proses on exhaust . Also when you remove the head check the gasket look for black marks where the cycling ear gas may leak from.
Good video, thanks for posting. Looks like some homebrew frosty beverage at about 15 minutes. Yummy. I just got a free B/S 123K02 6.5hp motor off of craigslist. Actually runs fine, but going to break down/rebuild with my son just for fun and learning. First project like this for us, never torn down an engine before! Should be fun.
good stuf...well explained, ty sir for posting
AlchemistLair : that oil looks purddy thin . thanks for your video's , best blessings .
Just some positive feedback on Briggs and Stratton motors. Had two Mowers over 40 years both with side valve. I did what no one recommends ran flat out the for half an hour when new into tall grass, dropped the oil waited till cool emptied out, put in new oil .did the same again for the next half hour. then next time used like normal folks. Exception when finished hosed down while hot .cleaned perfectly then put away.Both motors gave out after 20 years with only oil,filter and plugs changed.
Thanks from Russia. Your video is very helpful in the repair of the engine, especially to remove the valve
One thing I don't like about Briggs and Stratton is the SPRINGS. frik. I'm about to do my first lawn mower. After doing weedwackers. Your video helps on what to look forward to. Yay.
that metal sheet around block keeps the plastic carb and other plastics from melting. it is a heat shield.
I hear ya! Got a 1/4" Milwaukee impact gun now. I had been researching which brand and model to buy.
New sub, these are a great video series, I am going to work on my Craftsman mower that has a Briggs engine this winter and go through it like your doing, thank you for doing these vids they will help a lot...Real nice details like the talk on the special tools... those are key, carb tool etc...any recommends on Briggs carb tools...etc...A video on all the special small engine tools would be cool...
Really a leak down test tells you every thing that’s needed as far as block and valves goes
Flat head = valve job 😊
Thanks sooo much
When you do a compression test you should be getting 50 psi the engine needs at least 50 psi to start.You are also probably getting blow by so check your Piston rings for wear or your valves or even the valve seats.
Sounds like your rings are worn and oil is entering the combustion chamber, it may be time for a ring job. Check the compression on your engine. It should be above 80 psi. Also be sure to check "blow-by" by using a leak-down tester. This can pinpoint if your rings are weak. Good luck
ok thanks for your help
Hello the part @ 10:50 the valve cover with the check valve thing.... if that check valve fails could it cause issues with the carbs ability to suck fuel? Been having issues with my 500series, it will start when primed but wont suck fuel itself. I went through and replaced a bunch of stuff trying to figure out why it won't suck fuel(looking for air leak I think). So I started at the carb that stuff's all new now including gasket and diaphragm, intake manifold is good with new seal, so I kept going down intake leading to valve spring location pulled off valve cover/breather thing to inspect it and replace the seal... when I inspected it I cleaned it off and sucked on the check valve to see if it would seal and it would not, it barely even slowed down the air at all actually.
No problem!!!
Is it true that Briggs and Stratton uses the same size cylinder heads and other parts for horse powers ranging from 15HP to 21HP? Im looking for a compatible cylinder head and sump cover for my 17HP. Can anyone explain? Thank you.
Hi I have an old b&s mower engine I’m considering rebuilding to learn which I got for free. When I turn the flywheel, can hear rubbing inside, so I suspect it’s been run without oil. Is that a sure sign it’s not worth going any further?
So, what was the problem that indicated a rebuild was needed?
Reason I ask is my unit seems to have good compression and starts easily but it is burning oil almost constantly.
thanks :D
I have a 10hp murry rider that is leaking oil in the air filter... I changed the head gasket and it is still doing it..Please any help
Please, one question, is it important to use a new Screws, while replasing Gasket-Cylinder Head? Thank you.
Still waiting? 😅
U leave those on there cause the fly wheel blows air on moter and that helps keep the air on the motor
Good evening. What compression should be if the engine is working. Thank you.
Ten thousand if your under 9 thousand it can blow up anything in a 200 mile radius
i knew that i knew what i was doing in school im glad i can recap on here cuz i forgot which bolts went where xD
+Brendon Ehrenberg Great!! Good luck with your project!
just finished it thank you, i was the first done due to this video
Oh yeah, not my brew (Dogfish 60 min IPA) but I work better with something to sip on LOL!!!
Sound like a great project - keep us posted!!
hey dude. i want to ask something. when i start my 5hp briggs ant stratton makes black smoke coming off my exchaust and my spark plugs turn black. can you help me with this? thanks for your attention
Your intake valve is damaged, and is the the main reason for the lack of compression, your general knowledge is handy, but you are by no means a small engine mechanic, any mechanic could spot that bad valve a mile away... Thanks for sharing
Thanks for your advice, it really helps us know more about the engine.
its the valve seats
intake has carbon look closer
That isn’t blocking air flow, it’s directing it.
That grass in the cooling fins is whats blocking the air flow! Those metal pieces direct the air flow from the flywheel blower through the cylinder fins to cool engine! Those clogged fins contributed to the engine failure ! Keep fins clean and all metal and plastic ducting in place ,engine will overheat without them !
I'm not getting any compression at all i think my camshaft is broken. The position doesn't move at all
i own two of these engine one i got free the other i saved from a junkyard the one from the junkyard is close to being done
ok i want one of those tools !!!
Hi, where was the problem that there was no compression?
Also you should clean the carbon off of your piston head and your fuel mixture is running too rich thats why the carbon is building up you should probably tinker with that
I believe if you drilled holes in the fins and threw some copper tube through it and somehow water cooled it that way and whatever engine or a mini bike go kart I'm sure it's been done
That would be great for a race mower
Great video. Mine is a B & S 10H902, and I replaced the carb & diaphragm and it ran great one mowing. While doing some other work, two things happened: (1) I unfortunately lost the spacer (691633) that goes on the bolt holding the fuel tank--but I made a new one, hope it's the right length; and (2) the breather tube came out. I tried screwing it back in, but it's loose! If I turn it tighter, it does not line up for putting on black rubber L to carb. Engine is surging and VERY uneven. Q: Was there a gasket or O-ring to go on the threaded end of breather tube 691245? Any tips on proper re-installation of tube? Other things to check? Thanks. Jeff
Good inspection video of the briggs! by the way what kind of torqe rench is that at 5:11???? Thanks
That's just a standard old Craftsman ratcheting socket wrench. Remember; never use a torque wrench for disassembly!! Glad you enjoyed it!!
You're right!! Don't know who copied who but they're too similar for coincidence!!
Might want to get a smaller impact gun before you strip some of those threads.
How about a drill? Harbor Freight has adaptor for sockets (3 for $4), works great for me, makes starting easy or when troubleshooting, saves a lot of sweat (*L*)
You're not going to get a compression reading like that. You need to turn the engine over quickly and steadily. You're not going to get that from an impact wrench and you came really close to ruining those crankshaft threads by running the nut down with an impact wrench without anything backing up the nut. Your problem was with the valves. Not with the piston and rings. A compression test should be done with the rope starter if you're going to do a compression test.
+scdevon will you explain why it was the valves please?
Your exhaust valve was shot and probably the valve seat, too. You can see how low the valve sits in the seat. When the valve seat and face wear, there goes your valve lash and it's all downhill from there. The valve burns because it doesn't spend enough time on the seat each cycle to cool the valve face. In my opinion these engines in general came from the factory with the valves set WAY too tight; particularly the exhaust valve. Best thing you can do for these engines is open up the exhaust valve lash a few thousands of an inch wider than specs. They last forever that way.
Oh, and the tin shroud directs precious cooling air around the cylinder fins from the blower housing. Yes, it's there for a GOOD reason.
Your cylinder will overheat badly without it.
@@andrewconnolly7169 Probably so gummed up the valves were not even moving
thats no a gasket on the cover of the valves... it's a one way crank case ventilation. a little diaphragm
valves most always look good, it's the valve seats where you lose compression
dave12546 its not always becuase of the valve seats
Not saying its not the valves in his engine becuase he does have bad seats but there are multiple diffrent things that cuase bad compression
Yep
Are you answering questions on this series of videos?
Adam Barraclough I am answering the questions when I can get to them. I've been keeping really busy lately and don't have time to research a lot of answers. Also, some questions are better left unanswered.
4.5 compression relief to start on camshaft
I cringed watching you use and impact gun on the crank to turn it, bye bye threads
never do that.
Me too
So I just got this used tiller that was not cranking and tried to clean
it myself. I am noobie to this and actually opened the engine. Trying to put screw it back shut but it wont shut all the way... Am I screwed?
what did you open what did you screw together why so vague these old briggs are braindead ez to fix btw just by studying it you can probably find youre prob
You probably need a bigger impact gun!
Will A 25 Nikkie Carburetor Of A Briggs & Straton Fit A 27 Horse Power Briggs & Straton V Two 2 Barrel John Dreer Eztrack 465 Motor Can't Find A Carb For My 27 H. p. All I Find Is A 25 H
p
& No One Will Tell Me If They Exchange It Is A 27 V Twin B& S Motor Willl The 25 Nikkie Fit Need Help
7
How many cc?
Gosh compression check with impact gun time for popcorn
Tell how to remove the.stering wheel shaft Greer
The air deflector might be for burns when it is hot
its a heat sheld
I know this video is old and so is this comment but I was getting agitated when he was calling it a air deflector.
there is no lube in there. and its not a horizontal engine
I am Groot!
4 years ago
r gonna warp the head unscrewing it like that...
he's learning
Ola,onde posso comprar essa ferramenta compressora de mola?
bonjour sympa mais c'est possible de l'avoir en version française svp
Non.😂
80% of good film or video making is in the editing. Trim out the fat and you can tell more in less time. Looks like you know what you're doing tho.
Your camera works shocking
Engine didn't turn over checking compression. Look at the video.
actualy it did
So many negative comments on here but so many likes I don't get it! I guess once a know it all is always a know it all!
8:20
Intake my not always be bigger
What's up
I got the head off that kinda engine with a ratchet if he would have sheared one of those bolts off he would have been screwed
why didnt u do a leak down test
beer good
Hum mm
a video that was very hard to watch,,,,,had to keep fast forwarding,,,,,,,,,couldn't take all the unnecessary talk,,,,,,,,,,,,camera work was terrible........the worst was ,,,,,,,,,,,,, you don't sound like you have much experience in fact it sounded like you were doing your first engine.............
this is ahhhhhhh an engine... ahhhhhhh.... this is ahhhhhhhhhh a bolt....ahhhhhhhh.... this is a socket...ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... this is me using the socket ahhhhhhhhh...... this is a muffler... ahhhhhhhhhhh..... this is me ... ahhhhhhhh not viewing my video ahhhhhhhhhhh before i uploaded it.... ahhhhhhhhhh and seeing how dense ahhhhhhhh i sound.... with ahhhhhhhh... 1000 ahhhhhhhhhs... in my video ahhhhhhhhh..... as ahhhhhhhhhh i dont know what to ahhhhhhhh say.... ahhhhhhhhhhh ... ahhhhhhhhhh..... ahhhhhhhh... ahhhhhhhhhhh
hola quisiera que me espliquen en español para regular valvulas ok gracias
ya pudistes regular la valvula?
todavia no pude no entendi nada
que motor tienes refiero a que si briggs and stratton o otra marca?
power plant 6.5 hp
Vas a nesesitar el manual del consumidor y un set filler gages (no se como se dice en Español).por que el manual te dice que tanto tienes que apredar o aflojar las valvulas.Lo primero que tienes que aser es qitar la tapa de la valvulas.Ya que la qites lo siqente es ver que tan flojas o apretatas estan.con el filler gage te qias para regularlas.Si no me esplique bien me puedes buscar en Facebook y con gust te mando mi numero de telefono.
It just need new piston the piston might be damaged
DONT QUIT YOUR DAY JOB
N
I thought it was interesting when he said the head gasket was reusable???
yeah...
Were has that been the bottom of the Ocean???? bet you never had it run, you should take it too the scrap yard and find a nice engine...
That motor was junk. bad valve duhh
Tu te cet de ta tondeuse
you don't point out what you're talking about... How am I suppose to know what a cylinder head, muffler, etc is...
Air deflectors are for well must buy a new one if you are not knowledgeable enough to rebuild it everything needs to be with cooled some sort of way obstructing that will cause failure sooner than later the engineer absolutely knows this
info great..camera work could use more stability too many spaces in speech. practice first, you are a mechanic first could be excellent teacher
these engines are total pieces of shit compared to Briggs engines from the 70's
b&s SV very good,
b&s OHV SHIT
Your video is messy, can't see what are you doing and why are you doing that. Don't make any videos like that.
OH MY G..! Valves look good?? What does a bad exhaust valve look like! Get a new hobby!