I know this may be too soon, but when you get a new engine the secret to keeping the engine healthy when it comes to oil is royal purple and choosing the right viscosity oil for your average temperature climate. Install sohn adapter or premix 2 stroke or BOTH.
I just pulled apart 2 rx8 engines to build one good one all reusable end plats. 2 perfect housings im honing and keeping for my build. But have 2 average ones. With a slight groove 2mm from the edge for sale. I live on central coast.
Go to foxed.ca and download the rx8 13b msp engine workshop manual and measure EVERY tolerance in it. It's what I've had to do with mine. My rotors, irons, e-shaft, and rotor oil scavenging rings were all good. I've had to replace both housings for missing chrome. All in all not bad. S2 housings also work for s1 engines just drill and tap the hole for the oil pan and plug up the extra omp port. Just something to keep in mind. Good luck with the build. I just recently got over this part and am on to putting my engine back together. Cheers
I just sold 2 new rotor housings for $1500 AUD, if you need some hit me up I get 30% discount at Mazda, I can get everything you need, I'm up in Brisbane but I can sort it so you can pick up at your local Mazda Dealer. You're looking at a full seal kit, water retention kit, 2 x rotor housings, front and rear stat gears and possibly rotor bearings, your e-shaft/rotors/and plates are fine, you'll need to lightly lap the end plates though. As for the rotors check for wear on the apex seal slot, no doubt there will be a slight lip on the trailing side, this can be filed down, then check clearance as per mazdas specs. I'd offer to build the engine for free but the cost to send it up to Brisbane and to post back you're better off paying someone down there.
None of the running RX-8's you see going for 5K have compression tests or freshly rebuilt engines. an RX-8 in reasonable condition with either a high compression or freshly rebuilt engine will typically go for between 8-12K. Take a look at the oil metering system, they very commonly get clogged with no warning and if the owner isn't premixing the engine will die very quickly.
I think that was the case for this engine, a less effective oiling system caused it's demise. Premixing seems like a good option that more RX owners should consider.
There is no such thing as a good used 13B-MSP, Mazda didn't give them enough oil metering flow from the factory for emission reasons, that's why you see so much chatter marking on the housings. Get a used engine that has good but very low compression to give yourself the best chances of having usable parts to rebuild a good one for the car. Then, get flashing software to deal with the oil metering or just premix enough to work around the issue. Oh, make sure you measure everything and make sure specs are within Mazda tolerances, specially flatness.
That’s disappointing mate 😕 Fingers crossed that you can find a decent one at the right price soon enough, either just the motor or a complete donor car 🤞🤞
funny enough i had a running low compression rx 8 and when i tore it down the housing where still pretty bad where i could drag my nail and feel a groove. idk if there saveable if someone resurface them. id sell the, both for like 200$ lol also have two good rotors. im i nthe usa tho.
My ‘05, purchased new, runs perfectly after 13 years/47K+ miles. No engine problems yet. My take? Rebuild the engine, or get a Mazda rebuild. My logic: yeah, new engine is expensive (approx. $4-5K US dollars), BUT consider that, after that, you have still one of the world’s best-handling sports cars - even today - at a relative bargain price. Simply not many cars out there that can deliver the 8’s feel & handling unless you spend way, way more for an exotic sports car. Anyway, that’s what I plan to do when my Renesis ultimately goes bad. Properly maintained (and precious few RX-8s are!), that engine should be good for up to 200K miles: www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/200000-mile-club-210536/ I think one could argue that, all things considered, the 8 is really quite the bargain.
It shows signs of poor lubrication, causing the apex seals to dig into the housings. Probably previous owner thought he would use synthetic oil which is not good in 13b engines and causes premature engine failure.
@@Bbeavis if and when maintained properly (and the right oil used and changed often enough), the apex seals and rotor bearing should last as long or longer than a head gasket on a regular engine, although most owners just treat it like a regular engine, use cheap fuel, use synthetic oils, don't change the oil often enough, and this is the result.
Not considering any engine swaps here, we just want an original car that's running. Any form of engine swap would make the car mostly no longer road legal.
Too many toasted housings. OE oil system feeds dirty carbon oil from crank, and too little of it Those carbon also build up at the unpolished initial opening of side exhaust port and falls into the engine, causing that damage you saw on edge of the housing. Buy new housing, use the SOHN adapter to feed only the fresh mineral oil, and premix a small amount to cover for the low amount of oil, especially during low RPM driving. And REPLACE vacuum hoses going to the oil injectors every 30-40k miles to ensure they NEVER leak vacuum. Leak there will KILL the engine
It seems that unless you scrap the car you are committed to a proper rebuilt engine. Good economic sense? Yes if you like the car and plan to keep it for another 150k. No if you plan to sell it.
Cut your losses, as you said, a rebuild or new engine it's not economic sense. One option is an engine swap but that will cost $$$ and I'm not sure it's what you really wanted to do? BTW props to the old man for his Tough Mudder T ;)
Deep grooves on the housings means the engine is shot and not worth rebuilding without replacing them. Irons and rotors look ok though would have liked a closer look at the rotors. As long as there is no gouges or metal deformation probably fine to use again. Just need to source 2 rotor housings and a rebuild kit. If you can take it apart you can put it back together.
Not considering any engine swaps here, we just want an original car that's running. Any form of engine swap would make the car mostly no longer road legal or at least much harder to register for road use.
Mr323i, your point was invalidated when you used profanity and had the nerve to assume my nationality, let alone the assumption that i care whether he fits an LS or not.
Guys like Mr323i are why BMW drivers have the reputation they have. I'd like to add that he's in no way a typical Australian. I lived in Victoria and NSW for a year and they are some of the nicest people I've ever worked with.
I know this may be too soon, but when you get a new engine the secret to keeping the engine healthy when it comes to oil is royal purple and choosing the right viscosity oil for your average temperature climate. Install sohn adapter or premix 2 stroke or BOTH.
Yeah a premix seems like a good idea to extend the engines life!
Don't take it too hard dude. Just go for a long drive in the Dandenongs in one of your NA's. That's gauranteed to put a smile back on your face.
Good idea, i'll be right back...
@@Bbeavis
There you go! Better now?
Who needs an RX8 anyway?
I just pulled apart 2 rx8 engines to build one good one all reusable end plats. 2 perfect housings im honing and keeping for my build. But have 2 average ones. With a slight groove 2mm from the edge for sale. I live on central coast.
Very nice!
Go to foxed.ca and download the rx8 13b msp engine workshop manual and measure EVERY tolerance in it. It's what I've had to do with mine. My rotors, irons, e-shaft, and rotor oil scavenging rings were all good. I've had to replace both housings for missing chrome. All in all not bad. S2 housings also work for s1 engines just drill and tap the hole for the oil pan and plug up the extra omp port. Just something to keep in mind. Good luck with the build. I just recently got over this part and am on to putting my engine back together. Cheers
Thanks Powerhauz, good luck with your own rotary!
I just sold 2 new rotor housings for $1500 AUD, if you need some hit me up I get 30% discount at Mazda, I can get everything you need, I'm up in Brisbane but I can sort it so you can pick up at your local Mazda Dealer. You're looking at a full seal kit, water retention kit, 2 x rotor housings, front and rear stat gears and possibly rotor bearings, your e-shaft/rotors/and plates are fine, you'll need to lightly lap the end plates though. As for the rotors check for wear on the apex seal slot, no doubt there will be a slight lip on the trailing side, this can be filed down, then check clearance as per mazdas specs. I'd offer to build the engine for free but the cost to send it up to Brisbane and to post back you're better off paying someone down there.
Wow mazmorbid, thanks for the tips, really appreciate it! We're currently looking at our options, I'll reach out if we have any questions.
None of the running RX-8's you see going for 5K have compression tests or freshly rebuilt engines. an RX-8 in reasonable condition with either a high compression or freshly rebuilt engine will typically go for between 8-12K. Take a look at the oil metering system, they very commonly get clogged with no warning and if the owner isn't premixing the engine will die very quickly.
I think that was the case for this engine, a less effective oiling system caused it's demise. Premixing seems like a good option that more RX owners should consider.
Or.... You can LS Swap it! Thanks for keeping us posted!
I Wish!
talk to the full boost guys they have second hand housings you could probably get your hands on
Thanks for the tip Nate, will keep it in mind.
There is no such thing as a good used 13B-MSP, Mazda didn't give them enough oil metering flow from the factory for emission reasons, that's why you see so much chatter marking on the housings. Get a used engine that has good but very low compression to give yourself the best chances of having usable parts to rebuild a good one for the car. Then, get flashing software to deal with the oil metering or just premix enough to work around the issue. Oh, make sure you measure everything and make sure specs are within Mazda tolerances, specially flatness.
Thanks for the tips mate, currently on the hunt for something suitable.
That’s disappointing mate 😕
Fingers crossed that you can find a decent one at the right price soon enough, either just the motor or a complete donor car 🤞🤞
Thanks mate, currently on the hunt for something appropriate.... stay tuned.
funny enough i had a running low compression rx 8 and when i tore it down the housing where still pretty bad where i could drag my nail and feel a groove. idk if there saveable if someone resurface them. id sell the, both for like 200$ lol also have two good rotors. im i nthe usa tho.
Thanks Eric
My ‘05, purchased new, runs perfectly after 13 years/47K+ miles. No engine problems yet. My take? Rebuild the engine, or get a Mazda rebuild. My logic: yeah, new engine is expensive (approx. $4-5K US dollars), BUT consider that, after that, you have still one of the world’s best-handling sports cars - even today - at a relative bargain price. Simply not many cars out there that can deliver the 8’s feel & handling unless you spend way, way more for an exotic sports car. Anyway, that’s what I plan to do when my Renesis ultimately goes bad. Properly maintained (and precious few RX-8s are!), that engine should be good for up to 200K miles: www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/200000-mile-club-210536/ I think one could argue that, all things considered, the 8 is really quite the bargain.
I totally agree, certainly a cool/unique car and definitely pretty good value for what they tend to cost nowadays.
It shows signs of poor lubrication, causing the apex seals to dig into the housings. Probably previous owner thought he would use synthetic oil which is not good in 13b engines and causes premature engine failure.
Yeah the lack of owner understanding seems to be the key cause for issues with these cars. such a shame.
@@Bbeavis if and when maintained properly (and the right oil used and changed often enough), the apex seals and rotor bearing should last as long or longer than a head gasket on a regular engine, although most owners just treat it like a regular engine, use cheap fuel, use synthetic oils, don't change the oil often enough, and this is the result.
chuck a 186 in it, better donk. hehe. did you see my previous comment - fullboost did a review on these engines. good luck.
Haha, best engine swap suggestion so far.
"Toasted Dorito" could be project name...🔥
For a different swap, would a
2.5 KLDE be viable?
Not considering any engine swaps here, we just want an original car that's running. Any form of engine swap would make the car mostly no longer road legal.
Too many toasted housings. OE oil system feeds dirty carbon oil from crank, and too little of it
Those carbon also build up at the unpolished initial opening of side exhaust port and falls into the engine, causing that damage you saw on edge of the housing.
Buy new housing, use the SOHN adapter to feed only the fresh mineral oil, and premix a small amount to cover for the low amount of oil, especially during low RPM driving. And REPLACE vacuum hoses going to the oil injectors every 30-40k miles to ensure they NEVER leak vacuum. Leak there will KILL the engine
Thanks Soravia, sounds like you know your rotaries!
Well, it's better to buy a Mazda remanufactured engine. DO NOT BUY A USED ENGINE THATS NOT BEEN REBUILT! You will end up having a really bad time.
Currently on the hunt for something appropriate.... stay tuned.
It seems that unless you scrap the car you are committed to a proper rebuilt engine. Good economic sense? Yes if you like the car and plan to keep it for another 150k. No if you plan to sell it.
I certainly agree, we need to make sure we fix this as best we can within reason.
Dont get me wrong, I love a rotary, and would never suggest anything but a rotary for an rx7, buuuuuuut SR20 swap...
I'd certainly like an RX7 someday. super cool cars.
Cut your losses, as you said, a rebuild or new engine it's not economic sense. One option is an engine swap but that will cost $$$ and I'm not sure it's what you really wanted to do? BTW props to the old man for his Tough Mudder T ;)
Haha, thanks D13, the old man did it about 6yrs ago now.
150k? "not sure what happened"... its a rotary!!! thats more than double the average life expectancy lol
Generally they last 100k miles. 150k km is 93k miles so about right for failure.
www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/200000-mile-club-210536/
Haha Nebbia, yes I suppose the car had a good life to last this long.
Those edges on the irons are just casting marks.
Deep grooves on the housings means the engine is shot and not worth rebuilding without replacing them. Irons and rotors look ok though would have liked a closer look at the rotors.
As long as there is no gouges or metal deformation probably fine to use again. Just need to source 2 rotor housings and a rebuild kit. If you can take it apart you can put it back together.
Those edges are not casting marks lol they are from the side seals and it's normal on an engine with high ks
Thanks Adrian
Bmw n54 turbo conversion is waiting . Indeed it looks very bad .
Not considering any engine swaps here, we just want an original car that's running. Any form of engine swap would make the car mostly no longer road legal or at least much harder to register for road use.
*cough* LS *cough*. Im just saying it before someone else does. Or JZ. Or K20.
Americunt muppet. Ls are boring and rubbish
Why be so rude? Can't you express your opinion without insulting the guy for no reason? Shut up and get yourself a life...
Mr323i, your point was invalidated when you used profanity and had the nerve to assume my nationality, let alone the assumption that i care whether he fits an LS or not.
Guys like Mr323i are why BMW drivers have the reputation they have. I'd like to add that he's in no way a typical Australian. I lived in Victoria and NSW for a year and they are some of the nicest people I've ever worked with.
@@robinforrest7680 have a cry manchild because i called him a americunt muppet. Not even a real insult . Grow muppet.