Your face at 1st startup & 1st shift into "snappy" drive gear, PRICELESS!! 😁 Just pure shock/joy/excitement of all your hopes, hard work, & struggles paying off! Exactly my reactions on my '69 projects too 🤙😉 Congratulations, & thank you for all your clear & precise steps, opinions, & procedures. I'm probably like a lot of other people going to pull the trigger & make the purchase just because we're normal Joe Schmoes like you & seeing you hammer it out. Good job & thank you for your videos! 👏🙌🤝👌
Thanks dude. Good luck on your build! One way or the other I don't think you will regret EFI... whether it is ACES, Holley, FiTech, Edelbrock, Jegs or Summit systems. I looked at them all before buying my ACES. I think overall ACES won out because it was the only one at the price that "Committee" would approve. Plus they gave some thought to overall appearance and aesthetics with that gorgeous powdercoating and the sweet ACES logo. It looks cooler than the others and it is stock in black. The others want more money depending on the color you want. I found that friggin STUPID! Why should I pay FiTech $50 more to go from bare aluminum to black? How dumb can you get? That is actually one of the biggest reasons they lost my business. I was going to go with Jegs but I couldn't get past the GINORMOUS yellow JEGS emblem on the throttle body either. It was ugly. What can I say... I'm partial to beautiful things.
Rite on! I pulled the trigger on the kill shot master, getting everything prepped to drop motor in my 79 ford F-150 4x4 429, hey try some Turbo maxx oil/fuel additives another good product. Welcome to the Aces Family, keep us updated. Alaska 🤙🏼!
Thank you for the advice on getting the iac down to where it is supposed to be. Like you said I struggled a little with it but finally got it down there.
Thanks. I appreciate that. They are very similar I agree. How do you like your fitech? Has it been reliable? I think one of the things that sold me on the ACES and not the fitech was the ECU being able to go in the cab. Too bad the AC made that impossible. Wasn't in the mood to dismantle half the car.
@@PlateFleetResearch I hope so too bud. I never would have thought of a boat though. I have 1 concern for you. Though it is quite responsive out of the box... at least for me... you may need to tune it because if you're using the boat for skiing or wake boarding you'll need that quick instant acceleration or it might make that impossible. May I also recommend joining the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs so people can help you out if you run into issues. This group has grown quite a bit since I bought my system. Good luck and take your time. That is the biggest reason for failure among the group... don't rush it
I would think it would be super hard to put one on a boat. They have special exhaust manifold, where are you going to mount the 02 sensor? Also there is usually water running through those manifolds which makes it hard to get a good 02 reading. That is unless you are using just open headers then it would work.
@@EdwardHixson Most guys that run these on boats are using them on speed boats with V8 engines and open headers. The only downside is that they will need to drill into the header for the O2 sensor or bolt on an extension pipe and put it there. My only concern for boat guys is the constant need to go from idle to near full power and these Killshots need to learn for quite some time before they are good at quickly jumping from low power to WOT
I've been trying to pick between the Fitech Mini and an in tank pump, is it still performing well? Is it very loud? I have yet to see one on a vehicle in person. Thanks.
So I went with the mini because ACES didn't have an in tank returnless pump... but now they do so you might want to think about it. Biggest problem is cutting a new hole that big to the in tank unit. But if you want to keep everything fairly stock the mini has been great. It holds a rock steady pressure with no fluctuations. It isn't loud at all... as a matter of fact the ACES unit is louder as it pumps the fuel in. Only time I hear the mini is on initial turn of the key the pump self primes and adds a squirt into the Killshot... then its fairly silent because the pump itself is submerged in the mini tank. I'm very happy with it. Buy either with confidence!
Probably true and would make starts a little easier but ACES said 15 so I put it there. I'm not sure how their software would like it if I changed it. I do believe however that if I change it to 20 I would need to go into the software to change that to 20 as well. I think it's set up so that they have to match. I'm waiting till it's done learning. Then I'll save the tune then I'll play with it to see what I can improve and if I screw it up I can fall back to the good tune
@@jaysaw8151 definitely worth consideration but check out my video on my 6 month update. It isn't a perfect system but it's good. Also check out the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs for more info and results. Just keep in mind that the problems experienced by the vocal majority there are self induced
Wow... I reached Australia...cool! This car has its original 327 engine but I had already replaced the original manifold and carb a few years ago. The original was a 2 barrel Rochester. Over the last decade though I had been running an edelbrock dual plane intake with a 650 cfm edelbrock 4 barrel.
Does anyone know why i need do give my royal flush a little bit of throttle to start up, and why it bogs down when i get on full throttle ? Also its shooting when i let go of the gas
Hey bud, I was getting the same problem with it not wanting to stay on during cold starts. I just posted a little 3 min video on what I did to fix it. ua-cam.com/video/o0DJ1hCcsJo/v-deo.html as for the shooting... do you mean it squirts fuel everywhere when you let go of the gas? That's a strange one. Also, are you part of the Facebook group? If not, check out the Facebook group called "ACES EFI Owners and Techs". The ACES people are there some of the time answering questions, and so are a bunch of super helpful owners like us with some experience. The ACES folks go through that Facebook group looking for problems and then they answer interesting questions on their UA-cam Tech Tuesday videos. They answered one of mine one time.
How long have you let it "learn". Takes a while and only really "learns" after operating temp. Need a few hundred miles to self learn. That said, you can tune it yourself but that will remove the self learning part and will use your settings instead. All the current self learning (Sniper, FiTech, Jegs, etc) are the same way. Takes time and is always learning.
@@Nowayjose-z2r yeah. I've hit 200 miles and it's still learning. I wish there was a function for learning during start. That would solve 75% of people's problems i would think. Most everyone taking about problems are experiencing them while starting, warm up, and getting it to idle right. Next biggest issue is bogs when romping the accelerator... but that's a simple tuning change.
@@ThomasTuttle-v2o DISCLAIMER*** I'm not a tuner.... but I'll share what I've picked up so far. Read on if you're ok with that. I just did a 6 month update video about 2 weeks ago showing that I still have the bog but I also say that the system is still in Closed Loop (learning mode). I won't be making adjustment to the tables until it's done learning because I want to see if it can actually learn on its own to get rid of it. If you mess with the tables it will use your modifications instead of self learning. Be aware of that. That being said... to fix the bog when hitting the accelerator, go to Tuning>Fuel>Advanced> and enter into the graph labeled "Acceleration Correction vs TPS". This is like adjusting the accelerator pump on a carb. Enter the chart. The bottom is the degrees that the throttle position sensor (TPS) shows open to. The lower the degree... the closer to idle you are. The higher the degree the more the intake is open. So... If you are having issues blipping it while at idle and it bogs when you're just sitting there trying to show off while stopped or make a launch worthy of a ticket... up the graph point on the lower range like 0.0, 10.0 or 20.0. If your problem is while driving you need to up the higher numbers because while driving the butterfly blades would already be open more. I would recommend just increasing the whole graph by whatever percentage you choose. So it stays nice and smooth. One of the things you can do to figure out where your problem is, is to go to your sensors and see what the TPS sensor says it's at when you have your issue. Drive around and see what the TPS was showing when you had your bog and that will be the section of the graph you have to change. But again... you might wanna just up the whole graph. Also your AFR reading will let you know if you are going too lean (higher than 14) or too rich (lower than 12) when your bog happens. The 2 things can help you figure out where that graph is at its happiest. Some people have had good results getting that chart closer to 100% on the left (vertical) axis. Others needed closer to 150%. Go slow and see what helps you. This issue is more common on lower displacement engines like 327s and below and some stockish 350s. The reason is that the Killshot is basically a 1000 CFM "carb/throttle body" and that is HUGE for a small engine. We don't need that much air. Once you've made your change don't forget to save with the 1995 era floppy icon on the upper left corner or nothing will change and you will think it didn't help. Lots of people make that mistake. Also, I don't run timing control. I use a vacuum advance distributor so I can't help you with it, but if you're running timing control you can try lowering your timing by like 2 degrees across the board and see if that helps if the graph adjustment doesn't completely get rid of the problem. Remember... make slow adjustments. I AM NOT A TUNER AND AM NOT RESPONSIBLE!!!! LOL. Sorry that's long winded but I wanted to make sure you got as much of the info as possible. Good luck and please please please let me know if that did it for you bud.
That sir... is a very long answer. In general it is running well but could use some tuning. This is part of an entire series of vids I made on this EFI kit. Here is a llink to my 6 months later review video. It probably answers most of the questions you have. ua-cam.com/video/xOfo44uvQLU/v-deo.html
Yeah that would suck. The software learns but you have to drive it for a few hundred miles and it will not learn in idle but neither does any other manufacturers'. In the meantime it can be a struggle. When you say you uploaded tune to ECU, do you mean you put in a tune manually that you adjusted? If so, the software will take longer to learn because you forced a tune on it. There is also a setting that forces the software to STOP learning. I hope your tune didn't turn that on. I don't remember where that is at... but it's the closed/open loop item. Have you tried adjusting the fuel at that specific RPM range in the software? If you do, and up that range by like 5% that should fix your issue. Depending on the setup of your TransAm engine, you might need to fiddle with it more than others. If worse comes to worse there are remote tuners that can help you but they are at a price, however people are saying they are worth their weight in gold because their cars go from running slightly rough to almost race ready! If you adjust the tune yourself make sure to save your original in case you booger up something even worse... then you can just revert to the original. If you haven't already done so... ask for an invite to the facebook group called ACES EFI OWNERS AND TECHNICIANS. There are thousands of us on there helping each other out through some basic questions, fixes and adjustments. I sure hope that helps you. Don't give up. It sounds like you're close but just have one small spot in the tune that needs help.
There is no 100% "self tuning" EFI system out there. Holley, ACES, etc, it doesnt exist. User input is needed to get your system dialed in correctly, thats why every system has its own t software you can download and modify parameters.
@@PrimeraRSTKD oh absolutely. You know that and I know that but that's not how ACES markets this system. They claim it will self learn... not that it will require tuning. I'm going to run it till it's done learning and see how good it turns out with the built in tune. I'm gonna try and make a video on the results at some point. My guess is that what they're getting at is that it will be just fine to drive... not that it will be like a factory new car in responsiveness.
I kinda touch on that in this video ua-cam.com/video/SYK_ItABPaU/v-deo.htmlsi=Zb_lIiMEdvQoDsyM right around 2 minutes. At this point the pcv valve was going to a manifold port. Once I installed the Killshot I ran the pcv hose to one of the larger (3/8") ports on the side of the Killshot. Those are manifold vacuum too. I hate doing it because I'm introducing oily air to the intake which can coke up the valves but to help remove the oil from the air I installed a cheap $30 oil catch can in the line. I talk about that too right before that 2 minute mark. Hope that helps.
@@TheRamRanch sure do. I used a Dorman 46110 catch can kit but those have gone up in price. Evil Energy makes a decent one from what I hear for about 35 bucks though that is baffled.
No not really. Haven't really touched the car in almost 3 months now. My father is dying and I've been out of state with my folks as much as possible. You're not the first to mention this though. I'm wondering why you and others say that though. ACES asks for the 15 degrees. It starts pretty nicely and easily at 15. Obviously 15 degrees is only the initial for startup and my vacuum advance goes from the 15 degrees to I think somewhere near 36 degrees (if I remember right) as I accelerate up to WOT. What would be the benefit? I'm really interested in knowing. I'm totally willing to make changes for the better but I really don't understand what it would do to go to 20. Remember... I'm just a slight bit more informed than a shade tree guy and totally new to EFI. So yeah... by all means... smack some info on me. What can I expect for 20 degrees? I just worry about changing the ACES recommendation without understanding why.
Honestly I don't remember. I lost my spec sheet, but I can tell you it's a Summit Racing cam with a mild grind. Summit usually has a stock, mild, medium and radical under their own name. This one was the mild with hydraulic flat tappet lifters. I used mild settings because of it but people who are running rich should probably try the stock setting to help the base fuel table and learning curve.
@@AR_420 I guess I didn't answer the question fully. If you're trying to figure out which setting in the handheld you need for your cam... unless you are running 100% stock engine and cam go with mild. It will give you a touch more fuel and so more pep and horsepower. If that ends up being too rich THEN go to stock setting in the handheld. Hope that helps
@@dc10tech911 i got a 5.3 plan on getting a decent sized cam ported 862 heads new valves springs rockers oil pump intake manifold and such. should i run the mild setup when i buy this kit?
@ I’m not a professional here so take my opinion with a heaping tablespoon of salt…. But if you want my opinion then here it is: You know it really all depends on your cam specs because apparently the grind will determine how the air and fuel will mix more than any of the other items. Sometimes more than all the others put together. Yes… they all make a contribution but if you choose to go a monster cam route you will be having more problems than the average guy. I would highly recommend you stay away from more aggressive cams. NONE of the EFI systems like them. You will most definitely spend a heck of a lot of time tuning the system if you do. That’s IF you know how. If you do not know how to tune I would highly highly highly suggest you take it to an authorized ACES tuner if you install a huge cam, because otherwise it will run like garbage and you will most likely break something in the system and then blame ACES. That’s not a slight on you, but you have no idea how many times that has happened. So… stock cam… go stock even though you upgraded the rest. Mild grind with your build go mild in the wizard. Medium to aggressive cam, go to the “holy crap I love 2 miles to the gallon… so please take my money!” setting. It’s better to be richer with a larger cam than leaner. If you run rich, you can check the 2D tables after a few miles and see if the EFI is pulling out fuel… if so you can make adjustments from there. If you run too lean with an aggressive build you will most definitely cause damage. Does that help? I hope I answered your question. When you get the kit join our ACES EFI Tech and Owners group in Facebook. Lots of super intelligent folks in there. Good luck bro!!!!!
@dc10tech911 i do plan on getting a soppy mechanics stage 2 cam it's I believe a 548-550 with 218-220 I don't remember exact specs but slightly bigger than chopacobra and truck norris
This is when you need to understand how efi works Holley was on multiple vehicles in the 80s. Throttle blades opened ecu can sence vacuum leak and ecu will try to compensate for the issue. The beginning carb ecu n o2 sensor set up was good if all parameters were met. My suggestion is read and understand basic efi before you jump on a product and begin to complain why it won't work
@@stevejones5128 Before you do, I want to be fully transparent. The Killshot has so far been great and has given me little to no problems but there are others who are having issues. There is a Facebook page called ACES EFI Owners and Techs. There are plenty of horror stories but few with the Killshot. Mostly with the LS EFI stuff. If you buy please take your time with the install and don’t expect it to be perfect out of the box. Mine could sure use some professional tuning but committee (wife) hasn’t approved an extra $400 charge for that. It is however very driveable. The Killshot horror stories all seem to be based around 2 issues. 1) poor installation with errors made along the way. Those can be frustrating. 2) the ACES and/or aftermarket distributors. People are having issues with the timing control. All the problems I see are centered around timing control from their distributor/coil setups. NOTE: I am not using timing control. I have a straight up mechanical distributor with vacuum advance. It is cheap… it is simple and I’m not dealing with another layer of possible problems because of them. I have been chastised by many as to how dumb I am for leaving half of the EFI tunability on the table. Timing control can make the setup run much better and more efficiently plus help with all sorts of other things and yet I’m not taking advantage of it. Yet still… I’m not having the issues they’re having. If you buy their full top end kit with the distributor… good luck. Join the Facebook group because you might need their help. All that being said, you can expect the same things from Holley, Jegs, FiTech and all the others. Why spend more on them when you can do it just as good for cheaper with ACES and their tuning software is free online from their site. I hope it goes well for you like it did me bud. Watch my Installation video to get a better idea of what you can expect.
Your face at 1st startup & 1st shift into "snappy" drive gear, PRICELESS!! 😁 Just pure shock/joy/excitement of all your hopes, hard work, & struggles paying off! Exactly my reactions on my '69 projects too 🤙😉 Congratulations, & thank you for all your clear & precise steps, opinions, & procedures. I'm probably like a lot of other people going to pull the trigger & make the purchase just because we're normal Joe Schmoes like you & seeing you hammer it out. Good job & thank you for your videos! 👏🙌🤝👌
Thanks dude. Good luck on your build! One way or the other I don't think you will regret EFI... whether it is ACES, Holley, FiTech, Edelbrock, Jegs or Summit systems. I looked at them all before buying my ACES. I think overall ACES won out because it was the only one at the price that "Committee" would approve. Plus they gave some thought to overall appearance and aesthetics with that gorgeous powdercoating and the sweet ACES logo. It looks cooler than the others and it is stock in black. The others want more money depending on the color you want. I found that friggin STUPID! Why should I pay FiTech $50 more to go from bare aluminum to black? How dumb can you get? That is actually one of the biggest reasons they lost my business. I was going to go with Jegs but I couldn't get past the GINORMOUS yellow JEGS emblem on the throttle body either. It was ugly. What can I say... I'm partial to beautiful things.
Rite on! I pulled the trigger on the kill shot master, getting everything prepped to drop motor in my 79 ford F-150 4x4 429, hey try some Turbo maxx oil/fuel additives another good product. Welcome to the Aces Family, keep us updated. Alaska 🤙🏼!
Thank you for the advice on getting the iac down to where it is supposed to be. Like you said I struggled a little with it but finally got it down there.
I'm glad that helped you bud. Enjoy the conversion. Once it's running and dialed in, it's a good kit
I been researching videos on this thing and there hasn't been one single frown. Looking to pick one up for my BB Vette. Thanks!
nice video series thanks for sharing. i have a fitech on my old dodge it does pretty well, very similar to the aces unit
Thanks. I appreciate that. They are very similar I agree. How do you like your fitech? Has it been reliable? I think one of the things that sold me on the ACES and not the fitech was the ECU being able to go in the cab. Too bad the AC made that impossible. Wasn't in the mood to dismantle half the car.
Love the video
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Thanks for the help great video.....
Just ordered one for my Boat. Hopefully mine works oit as well as yours.
@@PlateFleetResearch I hope so too bud. I never would have thought of a boat though. I have 1 concern for you. Though it is quite responsive out of the box... at least for me... you may need to tune it because if you're using the boat for skiing or wake boarding you'll need that quick instant acceleration or it might make that impossible. May I also recommend joining the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs so people can help you out if you run into issues. This group has grown quite a bit since I bought my system. Good luck and take your time. That is the biggest reason for failure among the group... don't rush it
I would think it would be super hard to put one on a boat. They have special exhaust manifold, where are you going to mount the 02 sensor? Also there is usually water running through those manifolds which makes it hard to get a good 02 reading. That is unless you are using just open headers then it would work.
@@EdwardHixson Most guys that run these on boats are using them on speed boats with V8 engines and open headers. The only downside is that they will need to drill into the header for the O2 sensor or bolt on an extension pipe and put it there. My only concern for boat guys is the constant need to go from idle to near full power and these Killshots need to learn for quite some time before they are good at quickly jumping from low power to WOT
Lots of good info!
Thanks bud. I appreciate that, especially from an established youtuber.
I've been trying to pick between the Fitech Mini and an in tank pump, is it still performing well? Is it very loud? I have yet to see one on a vehicle in person. Thanks.
So I went with the mini because ACES didn't have an in tank returnless pump... but now they do so you might want to think about it. Biggest problem is cutting a new hole that big to the in tank unit. But if you want to keep everything fairly stock the mini has been great. It holds a rock steady pressure with no fluctuations. It isn't loud at all... as a matter of fact the ACES unit is louder as it pumps the fuel in. Only time I hear the mini is on initial turn of the key the pump self primes and adds a squirt into the Killshot... then its fairly silent because the pump itself is submerged in the mini tank. I'm very happy with it. Buy either with confidence!
@@dc10tech911 Thank you for taking the time to give me the feedback, I appreciate it man.
If 15 is good 20 is better ❤
Probably true and would make starts a little easier but ACES said 15 so I put it there. I'm not sure how their software would like it if I changed it. I do believe however that if I change it to 20 I would need to go into the software to change that to 20 as well. I think it's set up so that they have to match. I'm waiting till it's done learning. Then I'll save the tune then I'll play with it to see what I can improve and if I screw it up I can fall back to the good tune
Might have to consider this efi set up ....but gunna keep the crabs on the oldies just a lil while longer
@@jaysaw8151 definitely worth consideration but check out my video on my 6 month update. It isn't a perfect system but it's good. Also check out the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs for more info and results. Just keep in mind that the problems experienced by the vocal majority there are self induced
Hi from Australia, what was your original carburettor? Quadrajet or other?
Wow... I reached Australia...cool! This car has its original 327 engine but I had already replaced the original manifold and carb a few years ago. The original was a 2 barrel Rochester. Over the last decade though I had been running an edelbrock dual plane intake with a 650 cfm edelbrock 4 barrel.
6 AN fittings, if no AN wrench use a 9/16 wrench, works quite well.
Metric 14mm is a bit tighter fit.
Does anyone know why i need do give my royal flush a little bit of throttle to start up, and why it bogs down when i get on full throttle ? Also its shooting when i let go of the gas
Hey bud, I was getting the same problem with it not wanting to stay on during cold starts. I just posted a little 3 min video on what I did to fix it. ua-cam.com/video/o0DJ1hCcsJo/v-deo.html as for the shooting... do you mean it squirts fuel everywhere when you let go of the gas? That's a strange one. Also, are you part of the Facebook group? If not, check out the Facebook group called "ACES EFI Owners and Techs". The ACES people are there some of the time answering questions, and so are a bunch of super helpful owners like us with some experience. The ACES folks go through that Facebook group looking for problems and then they answer interesting questions on their UA-cam Tech Tuesday videos. They answered one of mine one time.
How long have you let it "learn". Takes a while and only really "learns" after operating temp. Need a few hundred miles to self learn. That said, you can tune it yourself but that will remove the self learning part and will use your settings instead.
All the current self learning (Sniper, FiTech, Jegs, etc) are the same way. Takes time and is always learning.
@@Nowayjose-z2r yeah. I've hit 200 miles and it's still learning. I wish there was a function for learning during start. That would solve 75% of people's problems i would think. Most everyone taking about problems are experiencing them while starting, warm up, and getting it to idle right. Next biggest issue is bogs when romping the accelerator... but that's a simple tuning change.
@@dc10tech911hey buddy know youve probably answered this many time but what did you do to fix the bog when romping it
@@ThomasTuttle-v2o DISCLAIMER*** I'm not a tuner.... but I'll share what I've picked up so far. Read on if you're ok with that. I just did a 6 month update video about 2 weeks ago showing that I still have the bog but I also say that the system is still in Closed Loop (learning mode). I won't be making adjustment to the tables until it's done learning because I want to see if it can actually learn on its own to get rid of it. If you mess with the tables it will use your modifications instead of self learning. Be aware of that. That being said... to fix the bog when hitting the accelerator, go to Tuning>Fuel>Advanced> and enter into the graph labeled "Acceleration Correction vs TPS". This is like adjusting the accelerator pump on a carb. Enter the chart. The bottom is the degrees that the throttle position sensor (TPS) shows open to. The lower the degree... the closer to idle you are. The higher the degree the more the intake is open. So... If you are having issues blipping it while at idle and it bogs when you're just sitting there trying to show off while stopped or make a launch worthy of a ticket... up the graph point on the lower range like 0.0, 10.0 or 20.0. If your problem is while driving you need to up the higher numbers because while driving the butterfly blades would already be open more. I would recommend just increasing the whole graph by whatever percentage you choose. So it stays nice and smooth. One of the things you can do to figure out where your problem is, is to go to your sensors and see what the TPS sensor says it's at when you have your issue. Drive around and see what the TPS was showing when you had your bog and that will be the section of the graph you have to change. But again... you might wanna just up the whole graph. Also your AFR reading will let you know if you are going too lean (higher than 14) or too rich (lower than 12) when your bog happens. The 2 things can help you figure out where that graph is at its happiest. Some people have had good results getting that chart closer to 100% on the left (vertical) axis. Others needed closer to 150%. Go slow and see what helps you. This issue is more common on lower displacement engines like 327s and below and some stockish 350s. The reason is that the Killshot is basically a 1000 CFM "carb/throttle body" and that is HUGE for a small engine. We don't need that much air. Once you've made your change don't forget to save with the 1995 era floppy icon on the upper left corner or nothing will change and you will think it didn't help. Lots of people make that mistake. Also, I don't run timing control. I use a vacuum advance distributor so I can't help you with it, but if you're running timing control you can try lowering your timing by like 2 degrees across the board and see if that helps if the graph adjustment doesn't completely get rid of the problem. Remember... make slow adjustments. I AM NOT A TUNER AND AM NOT RESPONSIBLE!!!! LOL. Sorry that's long winded but I wanted to make sure you got as much of the info as possible. Good luck and please please please let me know if that did it for you bud.
How the car running with this efi kit?
That sir... is a very long answer. In general it is running well but could use some tuning. This is part of an entire series of vids I made on this EFI kit. Here is a llink to my 6 months later review video. It probably answers most of the questions you have. ua-cam.com/video/xOfo44uvQLU/v-deo.html
Have a 78 transam , massive lean dip at 2100 rpm. Uploaded tune to exu, Aces efi software won't self learn, yay. Starting to regret this purchase
Yeah that would suck. The software learns but you have to drive it for a few hundred miles and it will not learn in idle but neither does any other manufacturers'. In the meantime it can be a struggle. When you say you uploaded tune to ECU, do you mean you put in a tune manually that you adjusted? If so, the software will take longer to learn because you forced a tune on it. There is also a setting that forces the software to STOP learning. I hope your tune didn't turn that on. I don't remember where that is at... but it's the closed/open loop item. Have you tried adjusting the fuel at that specific RPM range in the software? If you do, and up that range by like 5% that should fix your issue. Depending on the setup of your TransAm engine, you might need to fiddle with it more than others. If worse comes to worse there are remote tuners that can help you but they are at a price, however people are saying they are worth their weight in gold because their cars go from running slightly rough to almost race ready! If you adjust the tune yourself make sure to save your original in case you booger up something even worse... then you can just revert to the original. If you haven't already done so... ask for an invite to the facebook group called ACES EFI OWNERS AND TECHNICIANS. There are thousands of us on there helping each other out through some basic questions, fixes and adjustments. I sure hope that helps you. Don't give up. It sounds like you're close but just have one small spot in the tune that needs help.
@dc10tech911 , thank you for that response! It wasn't for me but I found it extremely useful and heartfelt. 😊😊👌👍
There is no 100% "self tuning" EFI system out there. Holley, ACES, etc, it doesnt exist. User input is needed to get your system dialed in correctly, thats why every system has its own t software you can download and modify parameters.
@@PrimeraRSTKD oh absolutely. You know that and I know that but that's not how ACES markets this system. They claim it will self learn... not that it will require tuning. I'm going to run it till it's done learning and see how good it turns out with the built in tune. I'm gonna try and make a video on the results at some point. My guess is that what they're getting at is that it will be just fine to drive... not that it will be like a factory new car in responsiveness.
Nice job mate
What wheels are on your Camaro ?
Thanks bud. They're American Racing Torqlites 17x8. Though I think I would have been better off with 18's.
What did you do with the PCV valve?
I kinda touch on that in this video ua-cam.com/video/SYK_ItABPaU/v-deo.htmlsi=Zb_lIiMEdvQoDsyM right around 2 minutes. At this point the pcv valve was going to a manifold port. Once I installed the Killshot I ran the pcv hose to one of the larger (3/8") ports on the side of the Killshot. Those are manifold vacuum too. I hate doing it because I'm introducing oily air to the intake which can coke up the valves but to help remove the oil from the air I installed a cheap $30 oil catch can in the line. I talk about that too right before that 2 minute mark. Hope that helps.
@@dc10tech911 thank you
@@dc10tech911 do you have a part number for the catch can you used
@@TheRamRanch sure do. I used a Dorman 46110 catch can kit but those have gone up in price. Evil Energy makes a decent one from what I hear for about 35 bucks though that is baffled.
Have you given it any more advance yet ?
It should like more advance than 15°
No not really. Haven't really touched the car in almost 3 months now. My father is dying and I've been out of state with my folks as much as possible. You're not the first to mention this though. I'm wondering why you and others say that though. ACES asks for the 15 degrees. It starts pretty nicely and easily at 15. Obviously 15 degrees is only the initial for startup and my vacuum advance goes from the 15 degrees to I think somewhere near 36 degrees (if I remember right) as I accelerate up to WOT. What would be the benefit? I'm really interested in knowing. I'm totally willing to make changes for the better but I really don't understand what it would do to go to 20. Remember... I'm just a slight bit more informed than a shade tree guy and totally new to EFI. So yeah... by all means... smack some info on me. What can I expect for 20 degrees? I just worry about changing the ACES recommendation without understanding why.
@@dc10tech911 sorry to hear that bud , all the best
What is your cam specs? Im torn between stock and mild setting. Thank you for the video
Honestly I don't remember. I lost my spec sheet, but I can tell you it's a Summit Racing cam with a mild grind. Summit usually has a stock, mild, medium and radical under their own name. This one was the mild with hydraulic flat tappet lifters. I used mild settings because of it but people who are running rich should probably try the stock setting to help the base fuel table and learning curve.
@@AR_420 I guess I didn't answer the question fully. If you're trying to figure out which setting in the handheld you need for your cam... unless you are running 100% stock engine and cam go with mild. It will give you a touch more fuel and so more pep and horsepower. If that ends up being too rich THEN go to stock setting in the handheld. Hope that helps
@@dc10tech911 i got a 5.3 plan on getting a decent sized cam ported 862 heads new valves springs rockers oil pump intake manifold and such. should i run the mild setup when i buy this kit?
@ I’m not a professional here so take my opinion with a heaping tablespoon of salt…. But if you want my opinion then here it is: You know it really all depends on your cam specs because apparently the grind will determine how the air and fuel will mix more than any of the other items. Sometimes more than all the others put together. Yes… they all make a contribution but if you choose to go a monster cam route you will be having more problems than the average guy. I would highly recommend you stay away from more aggressive cams. NONE of the EFI systems like them. You will most definitely spend a heck of a lot of time tuning the system if you do. That’s IF you know how. If you do not know how to tune I would highly highly highly suggest you take it to an authorized ACES tuner if you install a huge cam, because otherwise it will run like garbage and you will most likely break something in the system and then blame ACES. That’s not a slight on you, but you have no idea how many times that has happened. So… stock cam… go stock even though you upgraded the rest. Mild grind with your build go mild in the wizard. Medium to aggressive cam, go to the “holy crap I love 2 miles to the gallon… so please take my money!” setting. It’s better to be richer with a larger cam than leaner. If you run rich, you can check the 2D tables after a few miles and see if the EFI is pulling out fuel… if so you can make adjustments from there. If you run too lean with an aggressive build you will most definitely cause damage. Does that help? I hope I answered your question. When you get the kit join our ACES EFI Tech and Owners group in Facebook. Lots of super intelligent folks in there. Good luck bro!!!!!
@dc10tech911 i do plan on getting a soppy mechanics stage 2 cam it's I believe a 548-550 with 218-220 I don't remember exact specs but slightly bigger than chopacobra and truck norris
This is when you need to understand how efi works
Holley was on multiple vehicles in the 80s. Throttle blades opened ecu can sence vacuum leak and ecu will try to compensate for the issue. The beginning carb ecu n o2 sensor set up was good if all parameters were met. My suggestion is read and understand basic efi before you jump on a product and begin to complain why it won't work
Nice airlift shirt lol
Shhhhh. No one is supposed to know what that shirt is all about. Super secret squirrel stuff
My 355 jeep wrangler dies every time I stop. 😢 Im going to get rid of my holy 650 and get this. Breaking out the credit card 😵💫
@@stevejones5128 Before you do, I want to be fully transparent. The Killshot has so far been great and has given me little to no problems but there are others who are having issues. There is a Facebook page called ACES EFI Owners and Techs. There are plenty of horror stories but few with the Killshot. Mostly with the LS EFI stuff. If you buy please take your time with the install and don’t expect it to be perfect out of the box. Mine could sure use some professional tuning but committee (wife) hasn’t approved an extra $400 charge for that. It is however very driveable. The Killshot horror stories all seem to be based around 2 issues. 1) poor installation with errors made along the way. Those can be frustrating. 2) the ACES and/or aftermarket distributors. People are having issues with the timing control. All the problems I see are centered around timing control from their distributor/coil setups. NOTE: I am not using timing control. I have a straight up mechanical distributor with vacuum advance. It is cheap… it is simple and I’m not dealing with another layer of possible problems because of them. I have been chastised by many as to how dumb I am for leaving half of the EFI tunability on the table. Timing control can make the setup run much better and more efficiently plus help with all sorts of other things and yet I’m not taking advantage of it. Yet still… I’m not having the issues they’re having. If you buy their full top end kit with the distributor… good luck. Join the Facebook group because you might need their help. All that being said, you can expect the same things from Holley, Jegs, FiTech and all the others. Why spend more on them when you can do it just as good for cheaper with ACES and their tuning software is free online from their site. I hope it goes well for you like it did me bud. Watch my Installation video to get a better idea of what you can expect.
Lol