Відео

It still has the stumble, but it only happens when I stomp on it, like you said, from a stop. If you’re having problems you should be able to fix it like this: 1) Does your pump have a return line on it? If it’s the ACES intank that shouldn’t be a problem since it has a built in return and regulator. If it is the inline one, make sure the return line is about 3/8”. If it’s too narrow if will slow down the return and cause fuel flow issues. Also make sure the regulator is set to the right PSI rating 2) Make sure you set the handheld to the same PSI rating your pump/regulator are putting out. 3) Make sure you save your current tune before changing anything in case you make things worse. 4) Go for a drive and have your AFR visible on screen. When you’re ready, stomp on it and look at your AFR reading. If it goes below 13 it’s too rich… if it goes above 20 you’re too lean when stomping on it. 5) Here’s the tricky part. If it goes Lean then Rich… that’s gonna suck. That’s probably because you make the computer transition through the enrichment settings all the way to the WOT settings in a flash and it don’t like that. So you’re changing the fuel requirements really fast when the regular VE table is trying to keep anywhere from 13.5 to 14.1 AFR but WOT is trying to keep 12.5 … or so. 6) Most people don’t go WOT from a stop unless you’re racing and I can’t help you with that, but I’m sure someone on the Facebook group can. 7) If you’re just hitting it hard without WOT, then go into the handheld and find the Acceleration Enrichment vs TPS graph… It will have a little graph symbol next to it. This acts like your accelerator pump on your carb. Just like you have to adjust that pump on a carb, you have to do it to the EFI. So the bottom of the graph has the degrees in which your TPS is open. If you are at a stop, then you’re looking for the 5-30 area. Increasing the height of the dots in those areas is like adding more of a fuel shot with an accelerator pump. That graph comes way too Lean from factory. Increasing those a little should help BUT if your VE table isn’t right then throwing more fuel in when your engine is still learning can most likely cause drivability issues down the road because the computer will not understand why extra fuel just got dumped in right there and try to make itself learn that it needs to go even Leaner! You don’t want that… sooooo…. 8) That’s why I mentioned in the video I won’t fudge with those settings until the computer is done learning. Mine has not finished yet because I haven’t had much of an opportunity to drive it. But during normal street driving it's perfect. If you want to make it learn faster though, you will need to give it a better starting point much closer to perfect so you will need to adjust the VE tables before messing with Accel Enrichment vs TPS. If you’re gonna mess with the fuel tune go check out Action Vulture’s video on how he changed the killshot to e85. Obviously you’re not doing that but he covers how he adjusted the tables much closer to “perfect” so the killshot was basically almost done learning. By the way Action Vulture is actually Tim from ACES' tech support and R&D department. Check him out real quick before messing with Accel vs TPS… although… if you want... you can try that first to see if it’s a quick fix for you! If not then revert back to original tune and adjust the VE like he says on his video then try the Accel Enrichment vs TPS thing.. Here's his vid: ua-cam.com/video/xnBUBCL8fB4/v-deo.html 9) Let me know if that helped.

HAHAHAHA!!!! Thanks Blu... but like I tell everyone else... you really don't have to

@@festersmith8352HAHAHAHA... I see you found me Blu... been a long time

Thanks! I appreciate it.

Right on. Good luck... I personally think the LS stuff is pure friggin magic but in many ways I wish my Camaro had one. I image the LS Lite is nothing more than the ECU and wire harness right? Dying to know how that goes for you. Be careful though... You're gonna be mighty far outside that warranty period if you're not close to installing that kit. I've always wanted to buy another classic at some point and I wont care if it is original... because it wont be the family heirloom. If I do I want to go LS... so yeah.. I wanna hear how it went for you.

Right on. Good luck... I personally think the LS stuff is pure friggin magic but in many ways I wish my Camaro had one. I image the LS Lite is nothing more than the ECU and wire harness right? Dying to know how that goes for you. Be careful though... You're gonna be mighty far outside that warranty period if you're not close to installing that kit. I've always wanted to buy another classic at some point and I wont care if it is original... because it wont be the family heirloom. If I do I want to go LS... so yeah.. I wanna hear how it went for you.

@ ah I forgot about that but ya I’ll keep you in mind when I get ready to start it

That sir... is a very long answer. In general it is running well but could use some tuning. This is part of an entire series of vids I made on this EFI kit. Here is a llink to my 6 months later review video. It probably answers most of the questions you have. ua-cam.com/video/xOfo44uvQLU/v-deo.html

Oh man. Ok let's look at this 1 thing at a time. I didn't keep the receipts so I went back through the vids. The price of the Killshot kit plus the Mini plus the extra Evil Energy Hose and extra fuel filter and assorted parts like the coolant temp sensor adapter and the rivnuts and all... was $1150. Then I added new O2 bung clamps (that I broke) and sealant ($20) and I already had Adel clamps and the sheet metal (but that would add another $60 probably) and it would end up being about $1250 if I round up to be safe. Currently the Killshot is cheaper than when I bought it though. As for the Mini... There's goods and bads to it. I really like it because I keep the cheap style OEM fuel pump on the engine. Keeping it as stock as possible is good for me because it's easier to work on. It has a built in electric boost pump and screen that if it ever goes out or gets dirty I just open it and replace without having to drop the tank ever again. It is also smaller in form and easier to mount (because it has more mounting options) than the ACES Command Center. The bads would be that it takes up valuable real-estate in the engine bay, it will always require that stock fuel pump or another fuel pump to feed it and it requires a lot of more hose (about $50 worth) to get it installed. I personally would have bought the in-tank pump because it would be a cleaner setup but it wasn't offered back then... especially if I had a new tank like you. I wouldn't have hacked up my original because... well... it just hurts to hack up an original anything and because of the danger of explosion making such a big hole. Also... I didn't have a hole saw for that big in-tank pump and that would have cost more... plus the in-tank pump would also need you to buy more wire, I believe, to run from the engine bay to feed the pump (both battery wire for the power and 12 or 14 gauge wire for the pump+ wire that leads to the ACES harness in your engine bay so keep that in mind. It should be cheap on Amazon for lots of wire. If you do the in-tank method, look up the videos produced by ACES. People have been breaking the pumps (the vertical pipe on the pump) because they have been installing the hose clamps wrong and snapping the pipe. Make sure you look that up before installing the in-tank to make sure you are not one of those poor souls. I hope that helps.

Thanks dude. Good luck on your build! One way or the other I don't think you will regret EFI... whether it is ACES, Holley, FiTech, Edelbrock, Jegs or Summit systems. I looked at them all before buying my ACES. I think overall ACES won out because it was the only one at the price that "Committee" would approve. Plus they gave some thought to overall appearance and aesthetics with that gorgeous powdercoating and the sweet ACES logo. It looks cooler than the others and it is stock in black. The others want more money depending on the color you want. I found that friggin STUPID! Why should I pay FiTech $50 more to go from bare aluminum to black? How dumb can you get? That is actually one of the biggest reasons they lost my business. I was going to go with Jegs but I couldn't get past the GINORMOUS yellow JEGS emblem on the throttle body either. It was ugly. What can I say... I'm partial to beautiful things.

Right on bro! Very similar story. You know... when I finished my schooling to be an A&P I actually was about to apply to amusement parks but I got an airline job so fast it never happened. Sounds cool! Check out the other vids I put up on this ACES unit. There is good and there is bad but that can be said about the other manufacturers too. There are some that hate it and some that really like it. It isn't meant for a race car though. Keep that in mind. The "self learning" is really only if you plan to street drive it. If you plan to drive it hard or have a radical cam then you will DEFINITELY have to tune it and that can cost about 400-500 bucks so bear that in mind. If your classic stang has a small engine (below 300 cubes) you might want to think about the 2 barrel "deuces wild" instead. Mine is a 327 and the Killshot is ok on it but can be a little large when in wide open throttle. Anyway... to make sure you're informed definitely check out the other vids. ACES has been good to me but you should also know that they don't have a lot of vids out there on how to step by step tune this thing yourself. Other companies have more on that but ACES has stated they are working on a series of videos for us layman so we can try tuning ourselves without feeling like we need a tuner. Good luck in your research and hunt!

@@jaysaw8151 definitely worth consideration but check out my video on my 6 month update. It isn't a perfect system but it's good. Also check out the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs for more info and results. Just keep in mind that the problems experienced by the vocal majority there are self induced

@@racer1987 thanks bud. I appreciate the kind words. Don't wait too long. Wouldn't want you to run into issues and find you're outside the warranty period. Remember... voltage voltage voltage. Be very sure of your voltage and your connections. Tons of people are having ECU issues because they hooked things up wrong and fried them. Good luck bro!!!

@@patrickbritt1369 make extra sure. Like I said I thought the same thing. I apologize for it in a later video because once I saw my screen under the camera I was finally able to see the clear film that neededed to be removed. The film had fine scratches but the display was perfect. Just check to see if that little tab is in corner of the screen.

Actually I don't. I have it set to mild. The cam I have is a Summit mild upgrade ( I forget the specs ) and roller rockers. I set the handheld to mild because that's what ACES said in the instructions. You might be right though... but the only real issue I'm having is with the slight bog/hesitation when going to WOT. I know how to fix that, but wont until I see what the "self learning" function does when completed so I can report that too to inquiring minds. Really, the reason I went with mild is because mine is a 58 year old engine that is temperamental. Combined with the 2 speed powerglide it has never been happy running lean. It's always been a real pain to even get it idling without it running super rich using the carb. I figured if it needed to run rich with the carb it would need the same with the EFI and since ACES said to go mild... well... I never really considered anything else since it just sounded like it made sense. I'm very open to taking advice to make things work better though so please smack some knowledge on me... what do you think I can improve with a leaner stock mix? Will it improve my start... my idle... how quickly it warms up... my bog issue? Something else? just wondering so I can see if it would be worth it because I'm not sure if it deletes the previous "learning" it has already done if I change to a whole new mode. I don't necessarily want it to start learning from fresh. Under my insurance policy I'm not allowed to drive this thing unlimited.... that's why it is taking so long to get this thing to finish learning. Thanks for the advice!

HAHAHA! Winner winner chicken dinner. You get the shiny gold star for having spotted one of 2 weirdnesses that I'm surprised no one has asked about until now. Technically the answer to both is the same. Have you ever decided to do something and thought about it so long that you became so focused on it that all other possibilities just never crossed your mind? Yeah... that was what happened. I had planned on putting it on the passenger side as intended. That side would not have had the extension to be able to remove because the bung would have ended up in the main X pipe that was not easily removable. When I realized I couldn't put it on the passenger side I just transferred the thought to the driver side not realizing it made all the differenced in the world. I actually didn't realize the possibility until I had the pipe in my hands AFTER I had installed the bung with the new clamps and sealant. You should have seen my face when it dawned on me. I could have diverted the funds from the new clamp and sealant to the muffler shop! I hate tunnel vision. The second weirdness was I didn't have to do all the fancy measuring given that the driver side pipe came out so easily. Oh well... maybe it will help out someone else who DOES have that problem.

LOL. I just gave the exact same advice to someone else that asked me. I knew this but I'm holding off changing settings because I want to see where this thing is when it's done learning. Since adjusting tables has been known to turn off self learn in the past, I'm going to wait on it a bit. I usually don't romp on it. This isn't a car I show off in. I'm too old and crusty for that. But yes... Good advice and thanks for sharing. I know there are a ton of people out there with that question.

Dude... do you know how to tune? I'm dying to make tuning videos for the other folks... for free. I don't think we should have to pay for a mandatory tune. I would love to share that info if you know how.

Dude!... I saw the same video and I totally agree that that modification would fix many issues for our smaller displacement engines. I was actually going to do it and then I saw one of ACES' tech tuesday videos where Tim and Ben said they don't recommend us doing that because it would void the warranty. But what a great idea... right?! Anywhoozles (as Tim says) he liked the idea enough, that he said they might be working on a new arm assembly that incorporates it, but he thought that the computer shuld be able to adjust for it without the primary/secondary split. I can't wait to see what they decide on that. Another great thought! Thanks!

@@dgambrel9241 right on. Best of luck to you. Take your time and don't cut corners. Remember... give the system time to learn but it should be drivable right out of the box. Some tuning might be required so don't be surprised but if you drive it like you do your family car for a while it should get better and better

@@deanjohnson641 thank you. I appreciate the time you gave my videos and the compliment. I hope your installation and results work out even better than mine. I for one am enjoying the reliability. I don't cringe every time I want to take a drive anymore

Thanks so much for watching. Carb break in is a fantastic idea. Way to think ahead! Good luck with your build. Would love to hear how it went for you. You know... I think I have confirmation on having sold about a dozen of these Killshot yet sadly... no shirt or hats with logos... LOL. Just kidding. I'm not looking to be a salesman. Really, the biggest reason I started these vids is because I wanted to cover my butt with proof of it not working when I received the Killshot with damage to the packaging. I hope yours came better protected and don't wait too long... don't let that warranty run out just in case.

LOL!!! You're awesome dude. I hadn't even finished watching my own video yet to make sure it published well before you posted! Thanks bud. I appreciate it.

@dc10tech911 thanks for posting! Waiting to get my block back from the machine shop, so I'm all over UA-cam doing research.

@@PlateFleetResearch I hope so too bud. I never would have thought of a boat though. I have 1 concern for you. Though it is quite responsive out of the box... at least for me... you may need to tune it because if you're using the boat for skiing or wake boarding you'll need that quick instant acceleration or it might make that impossible. May I also recommend joining the Facebook group ACES EFI owners and techs so people can help you out if you run into issues. This group has grown quite a bit since I bought my system. Good luck and take your time. That is the biggest reason for failure among the group... don't rush it

I would think it would be super hard to put one on a boat. They have special exhaust manifold, where are you going to mount the 02 sensor? Also there is usually water running through those manifolds which makes it hard to get a good 02 reading. That is unless you are using just open headers then it would work.

@@EdwardHixson Most guys that run these on boats are using them on speed boats with V8 engines and open headers. The only downside is that they will need to drill into the header for the O2 sensor or bolt on an extension pipe and put it there. My only concern for boat guys is the constant need to go from idle to near full power and these Killshots need to learn for quite some time before they are good at quickly jumping from low power to WOT

Honestly I don't remember. I lost my spec sheet, but I can tell you it's a Summit Racing cam with a mild grind. Summit usually has a stock, mild, medium and radical under their own name. This one was the mild with hydraulic flat tappet lifters. I used mild settings because of it but people who are running rich should probably try the stock setting to help the base fuel table and learning curve.

@@AR_420 I guess I didn't answer the question fully. If you're trying to figure out which setting in the handheld you need for your cam... unless you are running 100% stock engine and cam go with mild. It will give you a touch more fuel and so more pep and horsepower. If that ends up being too rich THEN go to stock setting in the handheld. Hope that helps

@@dc10tech911 i got a 5.3 plan on getting a decent sized cam ported 862 heads new valves springs rockers oil pump intake manifold and such. should i run the mild setup when i buy this kit?

@ I’m not a professional here so take my opinion with a heaping tablespoon of salt…. But if you want my opinion then here it is: You know it really all depends on your cam specs because apparently the grind will determine how the air and fuel will mix more than any of the other items. Sometimes more than all the others put together. Yes… they all make a contribution but if you choose to go a monster cam route you will be having more problems than the average guy. I would highly recommend you stay away from more aggressive cams. NONE of the EFI systems like them. You will most definitely spend a heck of a lot of time tuning the system if you do. That’s IF you know how. If you do not know how to tune I would highly highly highly suggest you take it to an authorized ACES tuner if you install a huge cam, because otherwise it will run like garbage and you will most likely break something in the system and then blame ACES. That’s not a slight on you, but you have no idea how many times that has happened. So… stock cam… go stock even though you upgraded the rest. Mild grind with your build go mild in the wizard. Medium to aggressive cam, go to the “holy crap I love 2 miles to the gallon… so please take my money!” setting. It’s better to be richer with a larger cam than leaner. If you run rich, you can check the 2D tables after a few miles and see if the EFI is pulling out fuel… if so you can make adjustments from there. If you run too lean with an aggressive build you will most definitely cause damage. Does that help? I hope I answered your question. When you get the kit join our ACES EFI Tech and Owners group in Facebook. Lots of super intelligent folks in there. Good luck bro!!!!!

@dc10tech911 i do plan on getting a soppy mechanics stage 2 cam it's I believe a 548-550 with 218-220 I don't remember exact specs but slightly bigger than chopacobra and truck norris

Yeah that would suck. The software learns but you have to drive it for a few hundred miles and it will not learn in idle but neither does any other manufacturers'. In the meantime it can be a struggle. When you say you uploaded tune to ECU, do you mean you put in a tune manually that you adjusted? If so, the software will take longer to learn because you forced a tune on it. There is also a setting that forces the software to STOP learning. I hope your tune didn't turn that on. I don't remember where that is at... but it's the closed/open loop item. Have you tried adjusting the fuel at that specific RPM range in the software? If you do, and up that range by like 5% that should fix your issue. Depending on the setup of your TransAm engine, you might need to fiddle with it more than others. If worse comes to worse there are remote tuners that can help you but they are at a price, however people are saying they are worth their weight in gold because their cars go from running slightly rough to almost race ready! If you adjust the tune yourself make sure to save your original in case you booger up something even worse... then you can just revert to the original. If you haven't already done so... ask for an invite to the facebook group called ACES EFI OWNERS AND TECHNICIANS. There are thousands of us on there helping each other out through some basic questions, fixes and adjustments. I sure hope that helps you. Don't give up. It sounds like you're close but just have one small spot in the tune that needs help.

​@dc10tech911 , thank you for that response! It wasn't for me but I found it extremely useful and heartfelt. 😊😊👌👍

There is no 100% "self tuning" EFI system out there. Holley, ACES, etc, it doesnt exist. User input is needed to get your system dialed in correctly, thats why every system has its own t software you can download and modify parameters.

@@PrimeraRSTKD oh absolutely. You know that and I know that but that's not how ACES markets this system. They claim it will self learn... not that it will require tuning. I'm going to run it till it's done learning and see how good it turns out with the built in tune. I'm gonna try and make a video on the results at some point. My guess is that what they're getting at is that it will be just fine to drive... not that it will be like a factory new car in responsiveness.

Never mind, I just watched the next video.

@@robertmcdonald5857 lol. Actually you bring up a very good point that the next person might want to keep in mind. It's too bad UA-cam doesn't allow us to update videos to include things like that.

I'm glad that helped you bud. Enjoy the conversion. Once it's running and dialed in, it's a good kit

I use expensive 93 octane and still had all these issues. Yeah... I was so sick of it.

Been fighting with it here ever since 2007-8. I've had to get creative with some factory carbs. Its less dense, and doesn't have the bang for buck like gas. I can get the performance back, but at the cost of fuel mileage. I can still get non-ethanol here, and do so as often as I can. I was hauling gas when the corn stuff went main stream. I have stories about the huge differences I noticed when hauling it. It ate the heck out of the trucks plumbing components too. There is such things as bad mixes as we load the trucks, so there was a margin for error in the percentage of ethanol blending as we loaded it. Allowing more or less to be tolerable. This was over a decade ago. So hopefully the loading systems might be better now. An old time carb tech recommends a product called "Stabil 360". I still don't have an opinion on it yet. I no longer work, and stopped using the vehicles on a daily basis, before I had a chance to really run/test it thoroughly. But I haven't noticed any down sides to it.

Thanks bro. This is the worst of my videos in this series. You can tell it was done with my cell phone. I tried to make the series as detailed as possible... almost like a how to video or job aid. I'm used to those. I wish I had more time to do tuning videos but I haven't learned enough yet and don't want to share bad info. Thanks for watching.

@@stevejones5128 Before you do, I want to be fully transparent. The Killshot has so far been great and has given me little to no problems but there are others who are having issues. There is a Facebook page called ACES EFI Owners and Techs. There are plenty of horror stories but few with the Killshot. Mostly with the LS EFI stuff. If you buy please take your time with the install and don’t expect it to be perfect out of the box. Mine could sure use some professional tuning but committee (wife) hasn’t approved an extra $400 charge for that. It is however very driveable. The Killshot horror stories all seem to be based around 2 issues. 1) poor installation with errors made along the way. Those can be frustrating. 2) the ACES and/or aftermarket distributors. People are having issues with the timing control. All the problems I see are centered around timing control from their distributor/coil setups. NOTE: I am not using timing control. I have a straight up mechanical distributor with vacuum advance. It is cheap… it is simple and I’m not dealing with another layer of possible problems because of them. I have been chastised by many as to how dumb I am for leaving half of the EFI tunability on the table. Timing control can make the setup run much better and more efficiently plus help with all sorts of other things and yet I’m not taking advantage of it. Yet still… I’m not having the issues they’re having. If you buy their full top end kit with the distributor… good luck. Join the Facebook group because you might need their help. All that being said, you can expect the same things from Holley, Jegs, FiTech and all the others. Why spend more on them when you can do it just as good for cheaper with ACES and their tuning software is free online from their site. I hope it goes well for you like it did me bud. Watch my Installation video to get a better idea of what you can expect.

Lol

I don't. I stay away from Instagram and tick tock. I have zero trust in them. Why?

@@dc10tech911 how does one reach out to you for business opportunities?.

No not really. Haven't really touched the car in almost 3 months now. My father is dying and I've been out of state with my folks as much as possible. You're not the first to mention this though. I'm wondering why you and others say that though. ACES asks for the 15 degrees. It starts pretty nicely and easily at 15. Obviously 15 degrees is only the initial for startup and my vacuum advance goes from the 15 degrees to I think somewhere near 36 degrees (if I remember right) as I accelerate up to WOT. What would be the benefit? I'm really interested in knowing. I'm totally willing to make changes for the better but I really don't understand what it would do to go to 20. Remember... I'm just a slight bit more informed than a shade tree guy and totally new to EFI. So yeah... by all means... smack some info on me. What can I expect for 20 degrees? I just worry about changing the ACES recommendation without understanding why.

@@dc10tech911 sorry to hear that bud , all the best

Thanks bud. They're American Racing Torqlites 17x8. Though I think I would have been better off with 18's.

Thanks bud. I appreciate that, especially from an established youtuber.

No not me but I've heard of this from very few others. First off, is the system new? You have 1 year of warranty... so if you're coming up on that year mark contact their customer service right away! Half the time when that happens it seems to be that the ECU got fried. Next, when you turn the key to the run position you should get a red light on the left on steady, next to that a blank light that turns blue when engine is running only, next to that a red light that stays on steady for the main relay (check power lines or relay connection if not). Next to that a blue light that comes on temporarily that shows the fuel pump turns on to prime the engine then turns off unless the engine is running. If the 1st red light is not on or that 3rd red light is not on, you have a power/wiring issue (again check power lines and relay connections). I would make sure you hooked up the red and black leads to the battery and not the alternator (some have made that mistake and it can fry your ECU). Those red and black lines need to be wired directly to the battery and nowhere else. Make sure you didn’t hook up the VMain line to anything. Make sure your connectors are in tight on the relays, ECU and into the Killshot itself. Pull all those plugs out and make sure the electrical pins aren’t bent. Only other thing I can think of, is a wire in one of those plugs is not seated right. Sometimes the plug wires come lose. That is to say, they aren’t locked into the plug and when you push the plug in the wire pulls out the back slightly and doesn’t make contact. When the plugs are in, tug on all the wires individually slowly and check to see if one comes out the back. Seriously though you need to tell them you’re having this issue first for warranty. That’s a lot I know. I’m sorry you’re having this issue. Seriously, to me it sounds like a fried ECU or bad connection. Remember the ECU and system get its ground through the engine. I’m assuming your engine block has enough grounding straps to close the circuits. Good luck bro.

@jacklo2801 Thanks for the kind words. Always nice to meet another A&P. I actually got a free ACES fuel pressure kit sku number AF2009P from them through a promotional giveaway they do every so often. But you can find similar adapters in Amazon for about 20 bucks. They are male to female fuel pressure sensor T's. I just can't remember if it's a 4AN or 6AN. A company called AFATEBOX is selling one on Amazon for 15 bucks in size 6AN. They titled the item "6AN Fuel Pressure Take Off Fitting 6 AN Male to Female with 1/8 NPT Gauge Port Hose Adapters Aluminum Black" hope that helps you out.

@@dc10tech911 Thanks so much for the help. I ordered one and that's one less obstacle out of the way.

Probably true and would make starts a little easier but ACES said 15 so I put it there. I'm not sure how their software would like it if I changed it. I do believe however that if I change it to 20 I would need to go into the software to change that to 20 as well. I think it's set up so that they have to match. I'm waiting till it's done learning. Then I'll save the tune then I'll play with it to see what I can improve and if I screw it up I can fall back to the good tune

Thanks dude. I appreciate it. It was a real learning experience and was quite fun. I just hope at least a few people find them useful

I kinda touch on that in this video ua-cam.com/video/SYK_ItABPaU/v-deo.htmlsi=Zb_lIiMEdvQoDsyM right around 2 minutes. At this point the pcv valve was going to a manifold port. Once I installed the Killshot I ran the pcv hose to one of the larger (3/8") ports on the side of the Killshot. Those are manifold vacuum too. I hate doing it because I'm introducing oily air to the intake which can coke up the valves but to help remove the oil from the air I installed a cheap $30 oil catch can in the line. I talk about that too right before that 2 minute mark. Hope that helps.

@@dc10tech911 thank you

@@dc10tech911 do you have a part number for the catch can you used

@@TheRamRanch sure do. I used a Dorman 46110 catch can kit but those have gone up in price. Evil Energy makes a decent one from what I hear for about 35 bucks though that is baffled.

Wow... I reached Australia...cool! This car has its original 327 engine but I had already replaced the original manifold and carb a few years ago. The original was a 2 barrel Rochester. Over the last decade though I had been running an edelbrock dual plane intake with a 650 cfm edelbrock 4 barrel.

So I went with the mini because ACES didn't have an in tank returnless pump... but now they do so you might want to think about it. Biggest problem is cutting a new hole that big to the in tank unit. But if you want to keep everything fairly stock the mini has been great. It holds a rock steady pressure with no fluctuations. It isn't loud at all... as a matter of fact the ACES unit is louder as it pumps the fuel in. Only time I hear the mini is on initial turn of the key the pump self primes and adds a squirt into the Killshot... then its fairly silent because the pump itself is submerged in the mini tank. I'm very happy with it. Buy either with confidence!

@@dc10tech911 Thank you for taking the time to give me the feedback, I appreciate it man.

Not sure what you mean. How to put the distributor to 15 degrees and how to change timing in the handheld? If you mean how to lock out the ACES distributor and then set it to 15 degrees and program timing curves I can't do that because I don't have an ACES distributor. I chose to use my normal vacuum controlled distributor instead of having the ECU control the timing. I've had people tell me I'm losing out, which I know they are right in a way... but then again my install works great and others don't... soooo. At the time it was because I couldn't afford the full top end kit, but lately I've been noticing that the people talking about having issues all seem to be having timing issues related to not getting the locked distributor right and that's causing all kinds of grief. Do you mean something else? I'd be happy to try to put something together, just let me know specifically what and I'll see if I can with the way mine is set up.

@@dc10tech911 I am also using my distributor and the time I have in my engine is a 8btc.i wanted to ask if I leave it at that or move it to 15 degrees? Like the manual says? I have seen all your videos and they have been great help to my system.

@@alexmeza5087 Ahhhhh. I understand now. Initial timing of 8 degrees is a little low. Is your engine stock or is it a mild build because that sounds like what the factory called out on an old stock engine. Either way, the Killshot is made to run with the initial timing set at 15 degrees in order to help the engine start easily. Set it to 15 degrees btc and hook up the vacuum line of the distributor to the small vacuum port (metered vacuum) at the rear passenger side of the Killshot (it's in one of my vids). The Killshot will start with that 15 degrees and then the distributor will handle the timing from there and the handheld will even show you how the timing is changing in one of the sensors on the screen. That should get you running like a champ. Do you still need a video on it? I can make one but it will take me about a week because I was about to leave town for 5 days to see my father in the hospital.

@@dc10tech911 I would thank you if you did one, thank you for responding and I hope your dad gets better even if I don’t personally know you. Best wishes for his health.

Metric 14mm is a bit tighter fit.

Thanks for watching. I always love when people give dimensions... glad it helped. You might want to look into ACES' in tank returnless pumps. If they had put them on the market before I did the Mini, I probably would have gone that route. The Mini has been great though. Yeah... the SWA vid was meant for kids in elementary school. I had to remember to simplify things so they would understand. I thought I sounded silly... but the kids liked it from what I heard.

@@dc10tech911 I initially thought about the in-tank pump. Cost wise, the mini saves me money, Why? I would have to get a new tank, a new sender, and then the pump. It looked like your tank has the sender installed from the top, but my tank is flush with the trunk floor, so my sender goes in from the front. In order to use my tank, I would need to cut out the trunk floor, and I don't want to do that. After looking at everything, and now having the dimensions of the Mini thanks to you, I am leaning that way. Thanks again for ALL your videos.