I see this was posted in 2013 but Ill add my two cents anyway. There is a third adjustment behind the red oval held by two Philips/cross hatch screws. This is to adjutant the play in the push rod that releases the clutch plate. There is a screw with a locking nut. Turn it in until resistance is felt then back out a quarter to a half turn. Lock it back down. The clutch lever should have about 4mm of gap before engaging the cable. This is about the thickness of a US nickel (5¢). ...t
hmm So i have a weird problem with my bike atm. whenever I hold the clutch fully in the bike wants to creep forward. The problem is I have tried adjusting the cable to the point where the adjustment nuts fall out (At the handlebar and at the engine) however It is still doing it. Any suggestions? I have the same bike in the video
I was trying to adjust the clutch by the cover and for some reason the cover refuses to go back into place.. I’ve had it off before and never had this problem
You adjust it while the cover is still on .. checklist -- did you crank it too much up and now it's trying to push further than clutch reach -- or did you by chance get it off the shaft thiggy (sorry dont know english word) and it's holding things off? No alignment pins I know of on a 500 or the 450's
@@dawino6260 i ment the little Thing Holding the cable in place in the Box before the Clutch, the one you that you Bend Up with the screw Driver. In the end It worked fine with a screw Driver and a Tong and my Bike is driving again. Thx for your Video, was a great Help!
Hopefully by now you guys learned the adjustment screw under the red cap with 2 screws that way the other two adjustments don't need all the way out....
yeah I was suprised I though it went into one of the clutch cover things but that's the magneto something I guess. Mine just broke on me on start up switching into first... rip
I leave 1/8" slop at the lever .. and make sure my bars are at the tightest spot the cables gonna have when I set the upper hand lever side .. I dont always explain that .. but it is something I do
Exactly the video I needed. Thanks for the post! I just performed this on my 83' GS450 but I dunno if I can't figure out the adjustment as It starts but when I try to put it in gear - nada. It feels close. I had to take off the shifter to do this. Maybe I fucked up the placement of the shifter? Maybe something else? Is the 15min mark where your pushing the tab in out of frame of importance?
@@kofiill2509 So long ago now... If I correctly recall, it came down to a lot of fussing with the cable tension with the clutch until I found the sweet spot. I remember it being looser than I thought it should be... good luck!
you can order em by length - it's a matter of getting the right person on the phone at JPcycles - old bikebarn is about the same - their sites useless but a phone call does the trick (sometimes 2 if you get a high school kid unwilling to look stuff up the first time) {both are com domains and both have their phone number on their website}
it's normal for it to rev up to 3000 if you have the enricher on yes... or if you have the idle adjust screw (not the mixture screw the one on the linkage) a hair too tight... but yeah generally it's a matter of set your mixture and idle - so plug and play almost applies... also - not sure if it does it on the 250 but one of my GN400's was victim to a fuel line that didn't drop straight and would go lean as a result - that will also crank rpm undesirably
hi i got a question of topic but i wan to know if i re-plece carb in my suzuki gn 250 i need to adjust it or just plug& play ? . the reason on choke when cold som times dont want to start if starts rews rush to 3100 rpm this normal ??
Sombody buffed the side of that Engine the hard way !
Love how the kid seems like he knows nothing yet he's the 1 working on it. very encouraging
I see this was posted in 2013 but Ill add my two cents anyway. There is a third adjustment behind the red oval held by two Philips/cross hatch screws. This is to adjutant the play in the push rod that releases the clutch plate. There is a screw with a locking nut. Turn it in until resistance is felt then back out a quarter to a half turn. Lock it back down. The clutch lever should have about 4mm of gap before engaging the cable. This is about the thickness of a US nickel (5¢).
...t
Yup .. but I try to keep em generic so folks can apply it to other bikes
Successfully changed my clutch cable, thanks for this detailed play-by-play. Couldn't have done it without you guys, thanks so much!
I bet thats just chain lube, not oil.
Thanks for helping out a yankee up north
hmm So i have a weird problem with my bike atm. whenever I hold the clutch fully in the bike wants to creep forward. The problem is I have tried adjusting the cable to the point where the adjustment nuts fall out (At the handlebar and at the engine) however It is still doing it.
Any suggestions? I have the same bike in the video
You might just have a tear in your line! I had the same issue and after some inspection I figured out I was lucky to make it home
@@ryanfigueroa6079 and you would be correct! Cable snapped on me 2 weeks later... as I was pulling into my driveway of all places
Good thing he's not getting paid by the hour. 5 minuets to take the cover off? I'd be out of business...LOL.
i got one of these and its missing some stuff also ate these auto? how do u change gears if not?
some of them were indeed auto -- the rest were one down 4 up except for the 6 speed which was 1 down 5 up
I was trying to adjust the clutch by the cover and for some reason the cover refuses to go back into place.. I’ve had it off before and never had this problem
You adjust it while the cover is still on .. checklist -- did you crank it too much up and now it's trying to push further than clutch reach -- or did you by chance get it off the shaft thiggy (sorry dont know english word) and it's holding things off? No alignment pins I know of on a 500 or the 450's
Where did you buy the new lurch cable?
cheapcycleparts or bikebandit
How dafuk do i get that holder bend Out the way, i feel Like braking it
I'm not sure what holder you mean ...
@@dawino6260 i ment the little Thing Holding the cable in place in the Box before the Clutch, the one you that you Bend Up with the screw Driver.
In the end It worked fine with a screw Driver and a Tong and my Bike is driving again. Thx for your Video, was a great Help!
Hopefully by now you guys learned the adjustment screw under the red cap with 2 screws that way the other two adjustments don't need all the way out....
Ah I’m so glad you don’t have to drain oil, I thought it went into the transmission for some reason lol
yeah I was suprised I though it went into one of the clutch cover things but that's the magneto something I guess. Mine just broke on me on start up switching into first... rip
@@SwainixFPV no way 😭😭 dang dude
@@marianoperez3750 i needed to change the clutch and gear shaft anyway, it's just expensive for a student with little knowledge lol
Good way to burn yer clutch out!! There’s 3 adjustments on them bikes. Way to tight with no play at the lever.
I leave 1/8" slop at the lever .. and make sure my bars are at the tightest spot the cables gonna have when I set the upper hand lever side .. I dont always explain that .. but it is something I do
Can't get through the first 5mins, looking for another. Dude is molasses with a wrench but with the background noise this isn't audible.
Nice video, i will change mine clutch cable soon.
Thx. It saved my life !!!§
I am afraid this video is a waste of time.
Changing this cable is piece of cake, but implies adjusting the mechanism too...
Exactly the video I needed. Thanks for the post! I just performed this on my 83' GS450 but I dunno if I can't figure out the adjustment as It starts but when I try to put it in gear - nada. It feels close. I had to take off the shifter to do this. Maybe I fucked up the placement of the shifter? Maybe something else? Is the 15min mark where your pushing the tab in out of frame of importance?
What was the solution for you? I’m getting same problem
@@kofiill2509 So long ago now... If I correctly recall, it came down to a lot of fussing with the cable tension with the clutch until I found the sweet spot. I remember it being looser than I thought it should be... good luck!
thanks for the video man
I'm not 100 percent sure but I think thats why the kid who owned it before Travis had started the cafe conversion... Neat little bike though '
you can order em by length - it's a matter of getting the right person on the phone at JPcycles - old bikebarn is about the same - their sites useless but a phone call does the trick (sometimes 2 if you get a high school kid unwilling to look stuff up the first time) {both are com domains and both have their phone number on their website}
it's normal for it to rev up to 3000 if you have the enricher on yes... or if you have the idle adjust screw (not the mixture screw the one on the linkage) a hair too tight... but yeah generally it's a matter of set your mixture and idle - so plug and play almost applies... also - not sure if it does it on the 250 but one of my GN400's was victim to a fuel line that didn't drop straight and would go lean as a result - that will also crank rpm undesirably
hi i got a question of topic but i wan to know if i re-plece carb in my suzuki gn 250 i need to adjust it or just plug& play ? . the reason on choke when cold som times dont want to start if starts rews rush to 3100 rpm this normal ??
Isn´t it a bit too stiff like that ? I heard the clutch needs to have 5mm-1cm of play before engaging, this one has hardly any play ...
Iboo30 yes the play makes sure you clutch isn't partially disengaging when the lever is out.
I saw a second cable going on the left handle bar, is the bike with left hand throttle ?
not really - his army catchy thing was messed up
I cant see which nut ur turning for the adjustment
most likely the enricher (choke)
Did you fixed the foot peg ?
Too easy!! Cheers
Travis is getting allot of good experience from the best mechanic on UA-cam :-) Nice Video Todd!
que zapateiros
So much offside camera!