Great video. Excellent idea on the roller jig. A cool trick I saw somewhere to prime the engine, you can flap the fuel tank lid and it will send fuel to the carb after a bunch of flicks.
Not gonna lie, I ran one tank at idle then a slow figure 8 pattern then on the 3rd I just sent it. Heard these motors are bullet proof and she still runs amzing.
Nice video. What I do is run 6 tanks total, all heat cycled before it ever touches the ground. 1-4 low idle. 5-6 slightly higher idle with few blips. 7-9 On the ground. Quarter throttle on 7 for 2 seconds at a time through half that tank. Then three to 4 second intervals withe other half. 8th tank, same as 7 but half throttle. Tank 9, same as the other 2 but 3 quarter throttle through half tank, then full throttle with leaning on the other half. This is all done smoothly on the throttle just like this guy did. No jerking the throttle. I also really appreciate the way he put emphasis on keeping the idle low. I can’t tell you how many people are at like 11 to 12 thousand rpms during breaking in. Bad deal. Low idle is the way. I would say this guy has it down pretty well. The more time you take, the better and easier it will be to tune the engine in the long run. Especially smoothly throttling when you finally reach that stage. Excellent video, one of the best. I’m telling you. If you follow this break in, your engine will last much much longer. Thank you for presenting this to people. You know your stuff.
Those dynamite engines break in super easy compared to a $300 plus race engine. Super easy to tune too, and damn near bulletproof. I used to have that same kit, was my first nitro
@@FullSpeedImpulseI ran 20 in my 8T until I built my 8X buggy, then switched to 30 so I didn’t have to buy two fuels. I suspect it probably wears bearings and especially conrods faster because of the power increase, but I think the effect is minimal. As long as you’re tuning correctly it shouldn’t make much difference; since the higher nitro % runs richer, you get more oil through the engine and that mitigates some of the damage. Usually only the glow plug heat range needs to be changed, sometimes head shims need to be added for higher nitro but not on the dynamite .28. I ran my .28 and my .21 on the dynamite r5 cold plugs and it’s perfect
@simplegr33n420 Alrighty!!! When I was at the track I ran out of of Morgan fuel and had to buy some traxxas stuff at the shop. And my RC ran rough after the fuel change. Any brands you prefer?
@@FullSpeedImpulseI use VP because that’s what the local shops carry. Incidentally that’s supposed to be some of the best. Byrons is good too. I’ve hear bad things about traxxas fuel but I always assumed it was just people hating on the brand
Yea the biggest thing no matter who you decide to follow for your break in. Do a idle brake in, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle and then 3/4 throttle. The motors are super tight. Has you run it you will notice how it gets easier to start. Make sure you preheat that motor!! Crazy difference on how much easier it is to pull start. Hope this helps
@@FullSpeedImpulse Okay now i see what your saying.. It's stages of breaking in🤦🏾♂️. Okay gotcha... I've had nitro before in 2006, and i don't remember doing all of this, but i do remember i ran that thing for 30 min to 1 hour straight though too. So I'm tracking now, thanks for the reply🤙🏾🤘🏾
Does this work for any nitro rc car because I'm thinking about getting URMODELAND RH1007 Remote Control Car, 2.4G All Terrains RC Off Road 4WD 1/10 RC Buggy Truck RC Car Toy, 60KM/H High Speed RC Truck Vehicle Modle Gifts for Adults RTR Version one of these for my first nitro rc cars
Great video. Excellent idea on the roller jig. A cool trick I saw somewhere to prime the engine, you can flap the fuel tank lid and it will send fuel to the carb after a bunch of flicks.
Dang!!!! I’ll give that a try. Posting our upgraded video on the table later today
Not gonna lie, I ran one tank at idle then a slow figure 8 pattern then on the 3rd I just sent it. Heard these motors are bullet proof and she still runs amzing.
Nice video. What I do is run 6 tanks total, all heat cycled before it ever touches the ground. 1-4 low idle. 5-6 slightly higher idle with few blips. 7-9 On the ground. Quarter throttle on 7 for 2 seconds at a time through half that tank. Then three to 4 second intervals withe other half. 8th tank, same as 7 but half throttle. Tank 9, same as the other 2 but 3 quarter throttle through half tank, then full throttle with leaning on the other half. This is all done smoothly on the throttle just like this guy did. No jerking the throttle. I also really appreciate the way he put emphasis on keeping the idle low. I can’t tell you how many people are at like 11 to 12 thousand rpms during breaking in. Bad deal. Low idle is the way. I would say this guy has it down pretty well. The more time you take, the better and easier it will be to tune the engine in the long run. Especially smoothly throttling when you finally reach that stage. Excellent video, one of the best. I’m telling you. If you follow this break in, your engine will last much much longer. Thank you for presenting this to people. You know your stuff.
Wow man☺️ I appreciate that for sure. We finally got to rip it on a track just a month ago. Ran awesome. Did a couple short vids. Nothing crazy.
Those dynamite engines break in super easy compared to a $300 plus race engine. Super easy to tune too, and damn near bulletproof. I used to have that same kit, was my first nitro
That’s good to hear! Do you run 20 percent nitro or 30? Does it wear on the motor that much harder?
@@FullSpeedImpulseI ran 20 in my 8T until I built my 8X buggy, then switched to 30 so I didn’t have to buy two fuels. I suspect it probably wears bearings and especially conrods faster because of the power increase, but I think the effect is minimal. As long as you’re tuning correctly it shouldn’t make much difference; since the higher nitro % runs richer, you get more oil through the engine and that mitigates some of the damage. Usually only the glow plug heat range needs to be changed, sometimes head shims need to be added for higher nitro but not on the dynamite .28. I ran my .28 and my .21 on the dynamite r5 cold plugs and it’s perfect
@simplegr33n420 Alrighty!!! When I was at the track I ran out of of Morgan fuel and had to buy some traxxas stuff at the shop. And my RC ran rough after the fuel change. Any brands you prefer?
@@FullSpeedImpulseI use VP because that’s what the local shops carry. Incidentally that’s supposed to be some of the best. Byrons is good too. I’ve hear bad things about traxxas fuel but I always assumed it was just people hating on the brand
Im just curious as to why so many "break-ins" are needed? My Losi is coming on Thursday and I'm trying to get the break-in down, before i start lol.
Yea the biggest thing no matter who you decide to follow for your break in. Do a idle brake in, 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle and then 3/4 throttle. The motors are super tight. Has you run it you will notice how it gets easier to start. Make sure you preheat that motor!! Crazy difference on how much easier it is to pull start. Hope this helps
@@FullSpeedImpulse Okay now i see what your saying.. It's stages of breaking in🤦🏾♂️. Okay gotcha... I've had nitro before in 2006, and i don't remember doing all of this, but i do remember i ran that thing for 30 min to 1 hour straight though too. So I'm tracking now, thanks for the reply🤙🏾🤘🏾
Does this work for any nitro rc car because I'm thinking about getting URMODELAND RH1007 Remote Control Car, 2.4G All Terrains RC Off Road 4WD 1/10 RC Buggy Truck RC Car Toy, 60KM/H High Speed RC Truck Vehicle Modle Gifts for Adults RTR Version one of these for my first nitro rc cars
I haven’t heard of that one. But yes your process for breaking in a nitro is usually the same as far as I know.
❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊. ไฟแอดพ์. ??
So I’m supposed to take advice from a guy that says top dead bottom? No thank you.