Moto Guzzi V85TT Final drive oil change and why you should change it in shorter service intervals
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2024
- A quick guide of what you need to change the oil in your final drive and why you should do it way sooner than the specified service interval.
It's the easiest job to do to your Guzzi and i have no idea why MG chose not to include it into the break in service list.
Few notes:
1) Its dark as night due to Moly additive
2) It had TON of metal shavings on the magnet
3) Job takes 10mins
4) Very few issues with the job itself
After watching this video I decided to change the rear drive oil on my 2020 V85TT at about 6,300 miles. After doing that I had an issue with the rear drive leaking. I used a 60cc syringe to refill the drive with precisely the recommended capacity of 160cc. I rode the bike in the mid forties Fahrenheit and above for about a week with no problems. After riding about 60 miles in temperatures between 30 and 36 Fahrenheit I noticed the rear drive had thrown quite a bit of oil. I realized I had changed the drive oil cold. I ran the V85 for about 8 miles and then drained the oil to determine how much oil I had lost; I collected 160cc. I refilled it with 160cc and have had no problems since. My finding is that the rear drive capacity tolerance is very tight, and by not warming it up prior to draining it I must have left close to what I guessed is about 10cc of excess oil in, and then for some reason riding during the cold weather it burped the excess oil onto my rear wheel. I was concerned I may have damaged a seal by over-filling it, but after a couple thousand more miles with no issues I've ruled out any seal damage.
Glad it ended ok :) seal is quite robust and u would need to overfill it with original MG spec of 180cc to tear it. How was the metal gung in the old oil? Did yours have a lot of metal shavings?
@@Kristisltu It looked pretty clean with no visible shavings.
Same thing happened to my V9. I now only put in exactly what comes out. Fortunately I did not damage any seals
I believe it is common practice to ride the bike for a few miles to warm everything up, BEFORE draining the oil so that it flows out better. I've been doing this since 1979 and it has worked well so far!
The dark "tint" in the oil is a friction modifier that Guzzi uses from the factory. It's not a bad thing, but I would keep my oil in until the recommended service interval. If you want to change it, I'm sure that's fine too, after 6,065km, I am sure the final drive has been run-in. Thanks for elaborating on the 160cc update.
The manufacturers keep extending all the service intervals because they want to show people that maintenance is cheap. I keep my service intervals half of what they call for. Oil and filters are far cheaper than failed final drive, trans and engine.
A little trick. Put tinfoil around the cat to guide the oil in a proper direction while draining.
Scary story by the way 😳
Greetings from Denmark 🇩🇰
Just had my break in service done and the Piaggio shop did the engine, transmission, and final drive gearbox.
We had a conversation about it as I’ll be doing the next few services out on the road and he went by his shop manual and put 180cc in the gearbox…. 🤔
He seemed very knowledgeable… 🤷🏻♂️
There were issues with not enough oil from the factory - so all Guzzi owners should check oil levels even in new bikes.
My Guzzi had a major failure - one of the bolts which holds valve rocker (under the valve cover) came loose.
Fortunatelly I noticed the sound, parked the bike, took off valve cover and fixed the issue on a side of the road.
The bike is great but quality control very bad.
This happened after the pickup?
@@Kristisltu the bike had approximatelly 4000 km
LOL, you're lucky it was a Guzzi with the heads sticking out and easy to remove the valve covers. Try doing this on a Ducati or Aprilia.
Great advice and very nice video, thank you! I believe Guzzi have actually changed the maintenance interval for the final drive oil to 30,000km now :-) No way I'd wait that long, this is definitely worth changing with every engine oil change.
30k? Seriously??? I wouldnt go over 10k with it :)
Maybe I'm too pragmatic, but I've got a feeling the factory got lots of warranty complaints due to people using 180ml of oil (as per the manual) when replacing it and then obviously having issues as you said. The factory then decided to shift the issue away, outside warranty :-) Thinking about it, how many users reach 30,000km in the first two years of ownership?
@@stokerel could be. But manual is wrong 180 is not correct amount, only when changing from dry. 2021 service manual has been updated to 160cc's at least :)
My 07’ Breva 750 says to change engine, transmission, and final drive oil every 6k miles also check valves every 6k. Very simple machines and easy to work on
You can see light through that oil, it is not very dirty, it actually looks like it’s in good shape.
I have rear drive oil on the rear wheel that leaked. The bike has ONLY been standing for weeks.
The rear oil is yellowish and smells like final drive (so i guess it didn't have the Moly)
Any idea where it could leak from ?
The oil was collected underneath the drain plug.
Bike has just 7500 km so i assume it never had a rear oil change as it was not needed.
I find it hard to believe that it leaks from the drain plug, but where could it then come from ?
With an oil change, where did you get the drain plug copper ring ??
Great info from an actual user. Thanks for doing this video. How has the bike held up to regular use? Any mechanical issues or problems with the motor? I'm looking at getting a 2021 model and I'm curious about reliability.
My current ride is a honda crf250l with adv mods for touring around my local area, Oregon USA. Can't wait to upgrade to a v85tt!
Ive done 6000kms and one trip from Lithuania to Croatia (4000km) and bike was perfect. It was heavily overloaded and we rode 2up but handled like a charm. See my review video where i talk all small details and add-ons for the bike.
MY2021 has finally received tubeless, so thats great upgrade.
Heres the vid with all the detais: ua-cam.com/video/ZAFPLHTYskM/v-deo.html&feature=share
If you have a 1400cc Guzzi, (California, Custom or Eldorado) you’re not going to like what you need to do to change the gear case oil. You can drain it (DON’T) until you fully understand what you need to do to get to the oil filler port to fill it up with gear oil.
Thanks for video. Which oil does MG specify for the drive? Thx
For me your oil still looks nice. No need to change that.
It my be an overkill, but I change the final drive, and gear box oil every time I change the oil. It only takes a few minutes and the oils are pretty cheap.
Which Guzzi do u own? Gearbox oil change on v85tt is a bit tricky question... You either need to remove the cat or risk drowning everything in oil :(
@@Kristisltu V9 Bobber. Some of the gear oil hits the cross pipe for the exhaust but it wipes off pretty easy.
@@thedirtyguzzi9268 will give it another look when im next to the bike :)
Thanks for the video! What tightening torque do both screws have? (In Nm) Thank you!
Oil drainage plug - 30Nm
Oil load cap - 25Nm
My owner manual says 180 ccl for the shaftdrive, somewhere I heard 160 ccl, what is right?
it's 160, the 20cc difference remains inside the bevel gear.
Does the final drive drain have an O-ring, or a crush washer? If crush, do you have the specs or the part number?
It’s a bit of a hybrid, it’s a washer with an o-ring seated on the inner diameter. Not sure of the part no.
que tal ese motor es duradero mas que los enfriados por liquido o igual
los motores Moto Guzzi son súper confiables, solo verifique cuántos Guzzi antiguos hay :) Yo diría que son más confiables que los competidores refrigerados por líquido (hablando solo del motor)
I don't understand how you would put too much oil back in and over fill it? Isn't that fill plug, just like a level plug on most car and machine gearboxes etc? When you fill it up, it reaches the level plug and just pores out? How would you put 180 back in if it doesn't even fit? I hope this makes sense
If u would fill till some of it starts to drain out - its nearly 300cc. Its Italian, so not everything follows common logic. Use a metered syringe to get exactly 160cc (mind you, that 20cc is always left in when draining and reffiling)
@@Kristisltu wow that's crazy to me. I'd have filled it to the level plug without even reading the manual. What a weird design. Why didn't the just put the fill plug so it pours out. So it can't be overfilled haha
@@matthewhayes7765 dont drive it like this! It will blow the seal very very fast. Just re-do it :) its an Italian bike and it has its quirks. Older guzzis were filled till the mark, but not this one, unfortunetly :)
@@Kristisltu haha don't worry I won't do! I wasn't saying I have filled it to the plug. I'm just saying I would've done if I hadn't seen your video. Have a good one. Cheers
@@matthewhayes7765 aa, ok, as there are a ton of complains over groups and forums from people overfilling it and blowing the seal which turns out to be a long and messy job if seal needs redoing...
This is just like Range Rover They say the gearbox oil is for life What they really mean is it makes the servicing costs look less
and once the car is out of warranty they dont give a shit !! Well done Range Rover for looking after your customers !!! I change any oil
in any car or bike either every 12 months or every 6K It makes sense does it not ??????????? No oil is for life even if life is 15 years
in any vehicle Why do they do this Range Rovers are not cheap Motorbikes these days are not cheap so WHY ?????????????
on a car it's a total overkill. All modern car can keep with at least 20'000km oil intervals. I go usually 30'000km and never had any issues on my cars.
I thought I have heard that Moto Guzzi are now saying that the refill should only be 150ml?
Do u have a link? Latest info was 160ml. Maybe it could have been updated again, but i have not seen any info with it
@@Kristisltu Dont worry mate, no, you are correct, Ive found official Guzzi bulletin and 160 is correct, sorry my mistake
My man……it is so easy!!! You refill oil until start leaking from the input hole!!!!
Does this guzzi have adjustable valves or shimming?
Adjustable ;)
@@Kristisltu I'm thinking about buying the 850TT.I had Lemans 1000cc Argostini but got put off from oil leaks from gearbox passing through the operating shaft with o-ring and engine side flange seal affecting the dry clutch plates etc.
Cardan joint had also broke not to mention dodgy electrical components.
Dont know if these issues persist with these new bikes because guzzi are meant to pull many trouble free miles.
@@stoicwarrior346 i cant comment on reliabity too much as im still at 7k km mark. But as of now - absolutely no issues outside some loose bolts, underfilled gearbox and squeeky rear strut :) super reliable even with heavy load and super bad weather :)
@@Kristisltu thank you for your information.I will keep watching and see how things progress,have you done the engine oil change yet?
@@stoicwarrior346 outside the initial 1500km change, i have also changed it 2 times. Before winter at 6k km and at around 7k km before summer ;) quite an easy job, just very weak washers so u need to change the sump ones every single time and cant skip on one or two
Fresh oil is the cheapest mechanic you will ever pay for.
colour of oil doesn't matter. age, mileage and quality makes job. Fill final drive intil oil start drip from filling hole.
First service with all oils change after teardown untill 1500km, second after 5000km or once a year. after first period engine oil once a year or max. 75% mileage from manual. gearbox and shaft - once per two changes engine oil. Or if U sink bike in water.
No, if u fill until drip - u will blow the seals ;) u need to refill exactly 165cc's
@@Kristisltu not possible. Above the hole U have enough space and heat will not expand (rise pressure) of air to blog up the seals. Exactly this same method I use for gearbox, rear diff, etc.etc.
@@bartoszri Sadly it is :) Theres an engineering error and if u fill till the hole - seals will blow. This is admited by MG by altering service instructions of to add only exactly 165mil and 185mil if dry fill
Just change once a year
Its actually a good practice to change all the oil every spring ;) Yet i would probably skip on gearbox oil if the bike has original cat :)
I’m coming to the conclusion watching your videos, that you just nitpick the hell out f everything, if you tip that cup of oil to the side,you can see it’s absolutely not very dirty, you can’t look at the way you are, hold it up tp light, you can see through it. Don’t understand your issue, you always fill the final drive up to the fill hole, all drives shaft bikes do that, and all rear ends in vehicles.
Vi fate troppe segheria mentali, per la manutenzione devi seguire le istruzioni del manuale d'officina perché sono abbondantemente prudenziale,
Ps l'olio diventa scuro dopo 1000 km