I installed a 210cfm broan ai erv in January and have been happy with it. In order to avoid the frustration of small proprietary filters that clog quickly I'd seen people complain about with other ERVs I installed inline filter boxes from hvacquick for both the fresh and stale air lines with much larger filters that should be able to easily go a year between changes. I like the advanced touch screen controller because I can easily check the ERV in my bedroom and adjust settings. I only wish the touch screen controller had a way to disable the light on the screen so I wouldn't have had to make a cover for it. I also have the ERV plugged into an Emporia Vue smart outlet so I can monitor exactly how much energy is used at different CFM settings just to know how hard the fan is working. At my usual 65cfm it takes 22 watts. I also use the wireless humidity/boost sensor in a bathroom that puts the ERV in boost mode either when it senses increased humidity or when I push the button to run in boost mode for 20/40/60 minutes.
i highly recommend a separate filter. that way you can fit a hepa filter. especially with some expensive brands whose non-standard filters you will not be able buy in years to come.
I did the same thing with the 150. I didn't even look at the cost of the official filters first, just knew I'd never be willing to pay their asking price. I added a Shelly smart really inside to have the unit remote controlled and on a schedule so it isn't running all day when no one is home.
I have an B130E65RS and here are my notes. 1) The ramp up and down of the fan when turning on is loud, it is quiet when running but the motor driver hits some annoying resonant frequencies of the motor coils or something where it is a little annoying when it comes on. 2) The minimum/low CFM that is automatically set when the unit turns on the first time will not run the unit continuously. I have to set the unit to medium to have it run continuously, in low mode the ERV does not stay on.
I have a Broan 160cfm unit based on your recommendation of needing 120-130ish cfm when we did my Manual J. Unfortunately Broan exaggerates it's performance, it maxed out at 136cfm with no ducting, one would think it'd be 160cfm as advertised. That's unfortunately left me with no "boost" mode. It will run wide open all the time just to meet the 130cfm the house calls for.
@@onecuriouscustomer No problem, after digging into it, it's fairly well documented. Why they do it, I don't know. Another thing, "boost" mode doesn't seem to be doing much for cfm beyond "max". It pulls the same amount of current and seems to be the same cfm as "max". In fact, when you put it in "boost" mode, the cfm read out dissappears. All in all it's a solid unit, I'd just have bought the 210cfm to have the overhead if I had known.
@@pyroman590 the advanced touchscreen controller lets you assign different cfm to boost and max if desired. The 210cfm model maxes out around 196 with my current setup and I run it at 170cfm for boost mode.
I wonder if you got a lemon and could exchange it. While my 210cfm broan ERV maxes out at 196cfm with my current setup, that's with a mix of rigid and flexible 6 and 8 inch ductwork. I haven't tried running it without ducting.
@@NurseAcrobat I have the advanced touch screen controller as well. It does not allow you to adjust past the limits defined by the self test on start up. The units not doing what they claim right out of the box is pretty well documented if you search for the reviews.
Probably the most comprehensive and practical description of a ventilation device I have found regardless of the type (HRV/ERV) or brand. We are in the process of removing ventilation from our HVAC contractor scope of work and moving it to our in-house team, at least with independently ducted systems because we are finding that our HVAC installers don’t seem to put much energy into understanding these systems. Thank you!
@@HomePerformance 10 years ago I helped a partner design an HVAC product that solved a lot of problems. It added about $50.00 to a typical new installation but was something a homeowner would gladly pay for. Aside from a few forward thinking contractors it was largely ignored. The 150k plastic mold has probably been melted down by now for scrap by the injection guys. To say the HVAC contracting business is resistant to change is a gross understatement.
This was a fantastic video! Sent this to our HVAC sub as he just wasn't tracking on what we were wanting to accomplish. So best places to pull stale air from...? 1. Bathrooms 2. Kitchen 3. Laundry/Mudroom
Here in South Central Wisconsin it’s almost impossible to get a HVAC contractor to install an ERV. My neighbor just built a new house and they have an HRV installed that was recommended by the builder. If ERV is the way to go even in cold climates like Wisconsin why don’t companies just stop making HRV’s?
Hi Corbett. Have you ever heard of the US Dept of Energy's Solar Decathlon, which is held every couple of years and encourages students at architectural schools around the world to design and build a small house that is extremely well built and energy efficient? The houses, which are also typically designed to be off-grid, are then brought to one location (in the US it's usually the National Mall in Washington DC) for viewing by the public, and then judging for a winner. I was thinking it would be interesting for you to do a "concept house" of what systems and equipment, appliances, products etc you would select for such a house. You've done many videos on your tiny house, and your much larger forever home, but i would like to see what you would do for something that was permanently located on a site, either grid-tied or off grid, and about the same size as one of the Solar Decathlon houses (about 800-1200 sq' in size).
11:24 - Dang. I have a filter grille in my house in the ceiling of a hallway (oriented towards the attic where the HVAC stuff is). Sounds like _if_ int he future I wanted to add an ERV and wanted to do some extra filtration there, I should consider relocating the filter into the attic space, maybe, right? Especially since I'm already considering upgrading to an Aprilaire 2025FG13 grille (thanks for that recommendation, by the way). Thanks!
Installed a Venmar, basically same unit, hrv a160h75rt. Currently the supply vents are quite loud paying air into the rooms of the house. Unsure of why that's the case. 3000sqft home, running at 65 max, 35 min
Question - what are your thoughts about installing in an attic? In Florida generally it is the only place anything can fit. Everyone has either an air handler closet or the air handler is in the garage (which is another disaster all in itself).
Really like your content. I saw one of your older videos. You said you were not a fan of a Zender ERV. I wish you could explain why in a video sometime. Thanks
Zehnder have great marketing. The performance of their ERVs is no better than competing products with counter-flow cores. Since most cheaper ERVs use cross-flow cores, you can honestly say that Z is better than most, but they’re not better than other premium HRVs using similar core technology. They do still cost more though. One thing they offer that’s nice is their compact comfort-tube ductwork system, but it’s PROHIBITIVELY expensive and one of the big reasons the BOM on a Z installation is $3X more than others.
Literally just installed two of them in a new construction project. So thrilled you put this video out. I’m putting a QR code sticker to this video on the unit ! ;) Keep up the amazing work. We love what you’re doing. ❤ One question: can you comment on noise of the unit. Trying to manage client expectations.
Great to hear- all ERVs make fan noise, no way around it. Since it runs 24/7, it’s easy to get used to- and remind them that it’s a key ingredient in their healthy home.
Hi Corbett, You briefly mention the fireplace issue in the video. We couldn't resist adding one to our new home in northeast Georgia and I am concerned about backdraft because we will have a very tight home with spray foam insulation and European tilt-and-turn windows and doors. Do you have any suggestions or links to your videos on how to mitigate the backdraft issue? Thank you for your awesome videos. I wish contractors would get out of the dark ages and listen to how things should be done. You are a wealth of fantastic information!!
If I had the $8k, I’d install a CERV2. They are the best I think, but pricey! They recommend putting it before a whole home dehumidifier when feeding it into the ductwork.
@@davidhoover2446 I would go instead with the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 (contrary of the CERV2), and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024. It's also more capable BTU-wise for dehu and way smaller compared to the CERV2, so easier to install. Check it out 🙂.
Great explanation. Couple Qs and other never covered issues(by anyone). Is there a bypass mode that can be remotely triggered to bypass the core at times that it's cooler outside and you want to bring that cooler air inside vs the ERV doing it's thing and having to run the AC. And when I mow the grass... I have very sandy silty soil and it's a dust storm when mowing(My mower deck is always fresh steel from being sandblasted). Is there a simple remote button that I can use to disable the system. Or an interesting add on product would be a PPM meter that shuts the system off when the number gets too high for say 20 minutes then tests again and either restarts or shuts down again. And think filter changing amount of dust every time I mow. My biggest personal issue with them is just the logistics of installation in older houses. Houses here don't have mechanical rooms, basements, crawlspaces etc. In our house I haven't a clue where I would put one. About the only place would be in an unconditioned attic or shove it in a closet and figure out a way to duct it and basically none of those options are doable since AC units are often upflow like in ours (unconditioned attic mounted air handlers are the norm though) Since our house is older it's one of the rare ones that have a crawlspace but not easily accessible. Now one really odd application... I'd love to have the largest unit to put in my workshop. It would be nice to pull out dirty air when working in the shop and bring in fresh air without loosing all of that cold expensive air and replacing it with 100-110* outdoor air.
The broan AI ERV doesn't have a bypass mode while some other models like the Flair and Zehnder ERVs do, though for the price of the Flair/Zehnder you could get a Broan AI ERV and a ventilating Santa Fe dehumidifier that can also bring in fresh air. Of course getting everything ducted in requires space as mentioned, plus labor. One interesting way I've seen someone make an ERV fit in a tight, hard to access spot was to put an in line fresh air filter outside so it wouldn't require insulation and the filters could be readily accessed to change them, and a stale air filter in the ceiling like an hvac return so they could do ERV maintenance without actually getting to the ERV.
@@NurseAcrobat I would go instead with the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024 for best comfort during not only the heating season but also for the summer as it's also a dehumidifier and a medical-grade filtration deive with as standard a HEPA MERV15 gasketed filter capturing about 90% of wild-fire smoke particules. Check it out!
If your using this in a conditioned attic space? Spray foam encapsulating the building, there would be no reason to insulate the duct work and register boxes correct?
you mentioned not insulating the outside air supply line as a way to preheat the air slightly. How are you managing the frost and/or condensation as a result? I've thought about running concentric ducitng from the ERV to the outdoor exhaust and supply, then only insulating the outside line, but im worried ill still get frost/condensation on the inside of this. (this strategy would be like putting a really inefficient HRV just upstream of an ERV, for the sole purpose of a little preheating to avoid defrost cycles.
Would like to install one in our house here in Northern Virginia. Do you have any technicians that you were recommending in this area? Thanks in advance!
Just did a DIY install! Very basic question, does Standby mode mean that the unit is turned on but not running? Mine only seems to have 3 options with the unit controller, Max, Min and Stb. It doesn’t do intermittent or smart mode.
i love your channel. you say an ERV is best, but if i plan on exhausting air from my two bathrooms do i really want to capture the humidity and return it to the house?
Thanks for watching Brad. I got you buddy: ERV vs. HRV Mythbusting: Which Ventilation is Safer for Moisture and Humidity? ua-cam.com/video/QOe4lluGwCg/v-deo.html
I'm currently finishing up on my 2nd floor cut-in with a mitsubishi system (attic), the house originally had 1-system for the whole house. Since you've mentioned it's best to be in conditioned attic, and my isn't, is it still usable with insulations added to the unit (hopefully controller doesn't overheat)? I'm planning on getting their highest CFM model, that has the least amount of bells&whistles as possible (fancy means more problems). the reason for getting the highest cfm model is i'm hoping to also supply that to the basement system, to cut costs in installing 2 separate ERV and I wouldn't have any means to be able to add one to the basement system. 2 story colonial home plus basement.
At 22:00 you mention a 6”-8” reducer. This makes sense to me, are you suggesting an 8” elbow or initial section of duct (depending on what is needed) right off the unit before transitioning to 6” for the remainder of the run?
today, they installed me an A130E65RT. whatever we do (i did a reset multiple times and redone the initial config over and over again..) the unit set the max to 83 CFM and we cannot set it higher! why ?? i found that we can barely feel air coming out of any of the supply! (is this normal??) so for that reason we tried (contractor and myself) increasing the max, but as explained, there seem to be no ways to go beyond the max value that the unit initally calculated when doing its auto balancing.. thanks in advance for any help
so, i dont have room in conditioned space. Im at around lattitude Latitude: 30° 10' in Florida. I even had to put whole home dehumidifier in attic because no room in conditioned space. I built platform over support wall for both devices. What will be disadvantage for ERV? Santa Fe told me no problem for WHD (even though I understand WHD reaching dew point in attic.)
Let’s say your ERV fresh air is plumbed into the supply or return of your air handler and synced up with your air handler’s blower. If your ERV is running continuously then your air handler is blowing continuously. Will this not add humidity to your home in the summer by blowing the air over wet coils after your AC shuts off? I know it’s not recommend to run your blower fan with the AC off for this reason.
Quick Question About Exhaust side. I used a Tee connection in My Duct line to exhaust different areas, and I noticed that suction pressure drops significantly between one Tee port and the other. So the further down the line the Duct goes the less and less suction power is present. I can increase the exhaust pressure by plugging part of the duct ports upstream. My guess is because I'm using the 6" Ducts, Maybe reducing the Duct size might help?? Have you noticed this? Is this normal? Or is it something that I'm doing wrong?
Awesome rundown of this ERV. I'd really like to have one installed and connected to my central air handler heat pump system. However, I noticed the min. required distance between the ERV supply and the air handler is 10 feet. Since my return duct comes straight down from the ceiling, I only have about 7 feet of return duct exposed. Does that mean I need to use T-3 or T-5? I'm also located in Canada, will it work in this climate?
It should be fine. I’ve seen a video where a person had 3 feet between the intake and the exhaust and it wasn’t a problem just make sure the vents directed opposite of each other if possible
Currently building a house and doing my best to air seal the best we can without going crazy. Is there a certain point where you recommend having an ERV? If my blower door score is say 4 ACH50 would you NOT recommend?
I am building a 625sq home with an enclosed 4' crawl space. The hrv/erv will be installed in the crawl space. Climate is in Atlantic Canada new Brunswick, so I am not sure of hrv or erv? Want to do it simple and functional..any recommendations would be great full.. thanks
downunder, supply ventilation systems are common and almost all run it off temperature like that units auto mode. useful when ventilation is a big cost to the heating/cooling of the home. however being an erv would you ever get that situation? also a problem we often get with that is the temps can change quick enough that you don't get much ventilation and the ventilation becomes weather dependent which is not what you want in a house. i really dislike intermittent running. storing the pollutants before venting them out seams poor. also the erv conversation really needs to include dehumidification. i have seen erv's sold with no thought to moisture levels in the home.
I'm surprised on the ERV unit performance and it seems in my case. I have a sealed crawl space. The moisture load with the warm summer air, the ERV connection is the concern. Fresh air swapping is the best for the ERV but I would like something that acts like an ERV but removes the moisture too. Is this possible without running the 4 ton heatpump for 2400 SqFt? I enjoyed your thorough review of the product.
I had an UltraAire 70H installed. It was great for a year, then the dehumidifier portion stopped working. It was replaced under warranty 3X and recharged once ($$$). Now no one locally will service it. So now all it does is pump barely filtered outside air in. The intake is less than a foot above the ground, on the south side (which is good, it never ices up) where the neighbor less than 20 ft away uses those horrible Unstoppables in their clothes dryer, has a service fertilize and chemicalize their lawn, etc. The town's streetsweeper went by the other day with no water being used to keep dust down and the PM 2.5 shot way up in a sudden spike. Current ducting is wrong for an ERV but that's why I'm here watching this video.
0:30 hold up that's kinda goofy. They could just mount a heatsink thats coupled to the body/chassis near the supply that goes *into* the home. That airstream is supposed to be near room temperature, right? Why bother with deficated cooling. 20:00 oh I see, is it that the big mosfets are the big power disappaters?
I'm in the northeast (zone 5 - VT) ~1 ach -Minisplits for both heat & ac -Smallish 18000 cubic foot home I'm shopping for an erv/hrv right now, but have been leaning toward an hrv as I start to air seal more. Currently I'm seeing ~48%-50% winter rh and 65%-70% summer rh with current tightness and a 50cfm constant-run bath fan going 24/7/365 I'm thinking that as I seal up more, I might get towards the higher end of the ideal (40%-60%?) indoor rh range in winter and thus won't want to retain moisture with the air handler (erv) in the heating season...... General thoughts?
Hey Steve . I’m in western MA , energy consult. I’d go with an ERV up there and don’t run your bath fan continuously. Especially with right sized heatpumps , no need for HRV dehumid help in summer . Impressive you are able to maintain such high RH in the winter . The ERV winter impact that much
can i pull bad air from living room and bedroom and supply them both, in an existing home in ohio and we just discovered how high are co2 levels are, thank you
As someone who worked in manufacturing for over a decade prop 65 warnings go on anything that isn't purposefully tested for lead. anything made with steel or copper or has a battery in it that isn't verified lead free gets the warning. its kind of like the gluten free label. all tortilla chips are by definition made from corn not wheat so they are gluten free but the factory that are made in might not have the protocols in place to get the certified label so then they can't print gluten free on the packaging. prop 65 really only has business being on products that interact with your food but its hard to draw that line definitively. Every box of screws, nails, battery, light bulb, TV, refrigerator, even things that have nothing to do with lead like printer paper has a prob 65 label. Look at the fine print on pretty much every product that you buy has that label on it unless its food or something you eat off of. its a poorly implemented consumer warning that gets way too much attention. The better way to do it is if the state of California tested products for lead and if they found even trace level of lead in it then they would mandate a label but that would be too expensive instead all products are considered guilty of containing lead unless other wise proven lead free and its such a legal hurdle to achieve lead free manufactures don't even want to attempt to process.
Did i hear you right at the 14:00 mark? You dont recommend erv’s unless someone can not use a bath fan?? I may be misunderstanding the statement bc i thought ERVs were recommended for all tight homes.
I love your videos and have a couple questions. Im building house in Orlando and have 2 carrier HVAC heat pump systems (upstairs and downstairs) and im planning on using a BR130E65RS and BR160E75RS respectively. Air handlers are next to each other in sealed attic. Planning on using T4 ducting as adding after the duct has been installed with venting through the roof. Is it possible to share the same external supply and exhaust holes? If so, any recommendation on if it’s better to merge the duct closer to ERV or roof and what size of duct and exterior hole? Thanks!
What are your thoughts on Broan AI vs Panasonic Intelli-Balance 200? I'm in the early building of a new high-performance home. I currently have many pieces of ventilation from Broan. One thing that gives me hesitation about Broan is my experience with our Broan BEST Range Hood. They are costly, as in $2,500. We needed a repair on it was a nightmare in working with Broan. Took close to 4 months to get the correct parts and diagnosis.
Hmm, I have heard horror stories about basically every brand you can think of. But my own experience and that of my clients for the past 8 years has been positive. They are a big company, which can help or hurt depending on the way the wind blows I guess. I like these better than Intellibalance.
Eric , Broan self balances , Panasonic does not(at least the 100 unit, I have not seen a 200 but expect the same). Broan is the clear winner . Panasonics work well if properly commissioned at install , but as filters get dirty and kids wonk the diffusers , may fall out of balance
I spoke with a Panasonic rep at JCL Live a few weeks ago and told him, I was buying Broan AI unless he could sell me on Panasonic. He said he couldn’t. Unless I could wait until July. The current Panasonic ERV isn’t as great as the Broan AI, but Panasonic said they’re coming out with a new ERV system in July 2024 and it’s supposed to be much better. So if you can wait…. Could be worth it.
@@pettydesign Appreciate the info. Any thoughts on bath fans? Thoughts on the Broan ULTRA GREEN XB Series 110 CFM Multi-Speed Bathroom Exhaust Fan w/LED Light Humidity Sensing ENERGY STAR® certified?
Just setting one of these up (V160E75RT, sold under VanEE here) and finding the house interior return & supplies have a crazy amount of fan noise for only pushing even 35cfm on low, and very loud at 90cfm+ with about 12' of 6" hard pipe and two long 90s... dedicated ERV ducts, not shared. Seems to be only mech fan noise, not at all from the duct work air turbulance, otherwise 35cfm would be fine. *Getting 128cfm for both in/out on the Broan self-test, so duct design is great, likely ~0.25"wc according to their spec chart. Anything you are suggesting for new installs to combat this? It's easily 4-5x louder than my heatpump supplies pushing ~65cfm down a 6" to 4x10" boot. My sheetmetal guy is suggesting adding in a 4-6' long U (180deg) out of insulated flex to act as a muffler, TBD if that works
@@HomePerformance Yeah, those might be a good option, do you spec those for all installs? I'll meter the duct freq and see if those target the right range (500-4000hz looks like great performance numbers on the Fantech LD6) Mostly just surprised with the need, considering a 6" duct 350cfm inline range hood fan has about 1/4 the noise as this unit running at 35cfm... not at all what I expected to come from a very highly rated model ERV
Update on this: ended up ripping out all the brand new hard pipe ducting from my install and replaced both indoor supply/return runs with flex (Thermaflex S-TL) and it's bearable now when under
@@HomePerformance Maybe reach out to your sales contact/product manager (Travis Rasch?) if you're paying out of pocket for them, and see if they have any advice? I'm sure I'm not the only one finding them way too loud... The fact I could still hear the unit's initial turbulence/blowers through 10' of rigid 6", with two 90s, into a tin plenum, then out every 15' of 6" rigid return run with two more 90s... is absolutely wild. So far loving the self-balancing, it really does work when I throw an exhaust-only load on the house, I can see the intake fan go 5-20cfm out of balance, then within 1-3 seconds level back off at a stable 0-2cfm difference as it corrects for the new change in pressure. The other thing is the super underwhelming real-world CFM. Mine out of the box with zero ducts on it, was only getting 126cfm, even with the internal filter removed... when the static pressure whitesheet chart shows it should be getting 145+CFM at
Thanks again for another great video. I am a Career Tech Educator building Tiny homes with high school and adult Ed students. Would you recommend the 130 CFM unit for our application?
Keep up the good work- happy to consult with your class because of course it depends, but probably yes. Check out my tiny spaces course if you like: login.buildingperformanceworkshop.com/tiny-spaces
@@HomePerformance Thanks so much for responding and the encouragement! I have your course and its great but now we need to purchase the right gear and design the install. I will get budget approval for some consult time because the 'it depends' factors need your help.
@@practacularhomediy I would sugggest you check also the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024 for best comfort during not only the heating season but also for the summer as it's also a dehumidifier and a medical-grade filtration deive with as standard a HEPA MERV15 gasketed filter capturing about 90% of wild-fire smoke particules. Check it out!
I'm also curious about this. The broan product page says the ERV is compatible with their Overture Connected IAQ system but I haven't seen any detail on how they work together.
i have a ventilating dehumidifer with a haven air monitroy. It can control the fresh air damper based on co2 and voc levels. Also will do lockouts for temp/bad air quality.
@@HomePerformance I live in a cold climate, so I guess I would just use a pre-heater like you mention, but the manual says for T-4 and T-5 (which I would need to do) " (THIS CONFIGURATION DOES NOT ALLOW RECIRCULATION MODE TO OPERATE.) So I was concerned that the unit would not defrost properly because the air recirculates in the core? Would I be reading that correctly? So I would not be able to have defrost on? Also it says the unit has to be synced to the furnace to prevent mold growth. So I would not be able to run it continuously, it would have to be interlocked to the furnace. Renew Aire says it can operated under a "T-5" setup and that the ERV can operated separately from the furnace. (Which is what I would want to have continuous air coming in, without using the furnace blower 100% of the time). Also, I don't think Renew Aire needs to defrost. So my question would be would the BROAN AI still work for me or do I have to get a Renew Aire, if that makes sense.
@michaelsuggett710 they all have to defrost somehow- when recirc is not allowed, it’ll just shut down incoming air and turn into an exhaust fan. Renewaire would either do that too or just shut down entirely- tech support would know.
Pushing air into the bedrooms and pulling it out of bathrooms will create a howling gale under your doors which will be particularly unpleasant in your bathroom. Putting a supply vent into the bathroom ceiling as far away as possible from the shower exhaust vent and with the outlet designed to give it some throw will sweep the steam out of the bathroom above human head height without creating draughts.
@@HomePerformance you've never stepped out of the shower and felt a cold draught on your feet and ankles from the air pulled in under the bathroom door to replace the air removed by the extractor fan? How big are your bathrooms, that you can't feel that? Many years ago my parents owned a house that had ducted air conditioning to all the bedrooms, but a centralised return in the hallway just outside the guest bedroom door. That was worse than having a draught under the door, because the door was fitted snug to the carpet and air wouldn't flow under it at all. In the middle of an Australian summer with the wall insulation of a house that was built in the eighties and big single-glazed windows letting in more heat all night, none of the bedrooms had any cooling unless you left the door open. My parents didn't mind when it was just them in the house, but as a visitor it felt very awkward. I like my bedroom door closed at night. Any room that you want ventilated while the door is closed, you need the supply and exhaust both in the same room. Otherwise it's just not going to work - you either have a draught under the door if the gap is big enough, or you have no airflow at all.
@@ruslanmansurov5419 you could, but you'd need a self-closing vent to make sure steam and odours from the bathroom didn't go out through the vent - and when it is open, you'd have sound transmission which isn't great out of a bathroom either. I'd rather just duct every room properly.
Sorry, I meant the time spent showering or "smelling" up the bathroom isn't that long. So if someone goes in bathroom and hits boost, it would run for 20 before even going into defrost. Likely time that you are recirculating bad air isn't that long. I'm in Edmonton Canada so pretty cold. I wanted the dual core Tempeff unit but it's over $6500. That one doesn't need defrost
@@jacobkomar576 you can get a RenewAire which does not require a defrost cycle for less than the Broan. No smarts like this one, no lcd control, but does have some push button controls to put into bathrooms. I am going with the Broan AI, but if I were in Canada and was sending exhaust streams out the ERV I would probably get the RenewAire.
Chat GPT does not agree with using an ERV in cold climates. So i do not understand why someone who professes to be an expert would state ERVs are the best option for all installations. It frustrating when self professed experts mislead us and potentially create expensive issues in our home. For cold climate will e installing the Broan HRV model
@ In Ontario’s climate, an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) is generally more practical than an ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator). Here’s why: 1. Cold Climate Performance: HRVs are specifically designed for cold climates like Canada’s. They transfer only heat (not moisture) from outgoing to incoming air, which prevents unwanted humidity from entering during cold winters. 2. Humidity Control: ERVs exchange both heat and moisture, which can help in hot and humid climates. However, in Ontario, this could lead to excess indoor humidity in winter, which can cause condensation issues, particularly with windows and insulation. 3. Ventilation Efficiency: In areas with significant seasonal changes, an HRV is generally more efficient and effective for maintaining a balanced indoor environment without risking extra moisture accumulation. That said, ERVs are becoming more advanced, and some newer models do perform well in certain cold climates. However, if moisture control and simplicity are priorities, the HRV is likely the better choice for your home.
@ instead of just talking nonsense you could’ve explained why ERV would work in cold climate but instead, you’re just insult me thanks. All I’m trying to do is make sure I’m getting the correct information for purchasing an air exchanger for my home.
I'd rather ventilate my house by opening windows then dealing with this over complicated crap that constantly needs to be cleaned, filter replaced and then fixed after it breaks. On top of that ERVs must have dedicated duct-work, because integrating it with an existing duct system would be very hard to balance. The heat ex-changer inside those ERVs allegedly recover both: temperature and moisture. As in case of temperature I can agree but I will never believe that it can actually separate moisture from outside air and inside air. Proof?....ERVs increase humidity inside a house in the summer in humid climate and reduces humidity during winter in dry climate...that is exactly what we try to avoid. Cost of these gadgets doesn't justify benefits. Maybe it does in commercial or in public buildings like schools etc (it is required by law to provide adequate ventilation in those type of venues), but as a homeowner and HVAC tech I'd say: stay away from this or....spend money and regret it later. Cheap solution for cheap ventilation: get a thermometer with relative humidity function and ventilate your house manually foe an hour or two...or three (by opening window and placing a case fan in it the way that it blows fresh air into your home) when outside temperature and humidity is lower or equal to that in your house. These condition are early in the morning in southern states. It is much cheaper, few grand vs $35 fan + $10 RH thermometer and you wont need to install a dehumidifier that is needed when you install ERV. Another crappy product on market that nobody needs.
I installed a 210cfm broan ai erv in January and have been happy with it. In order to avoid the frustration of small proprietary filters that clog quickly I'd seen people complain about with other ERVs I installed inline filter boxes from hvacquick for both the fresh and stale air lines with much larger filters that should be able to easily go a year between changes.
I like the advanced touch screen controller because I can easily check the ERV in my bedroom and adjust settings. I only wish the touch screen controller had a way to disable the light on the screen so I wouldn't have had to make a cover for it. I also have the ERV plugged into an Emporia Vue smart outlet so I can monitor exactly how much energy is used at different CFM settings just to know how hard the fan is working. At my usual 65cfm it takes 22 watts. I also use the wireless humidity/boost sensor in a bathroom that puts the ERV in boost mode either when it senses increased humidity or when I push the button to run in boost mode for 20/40/60 minutes.
i highly recommend a separate filter. that way you can fit a hepa filter. especially with some expensive brands whose non-standard filters you will not be able buy in years to come.
I did the same thing with the 150. I didn't even look at the cost of the official filters first, just knew I'd never be willing to pay their asking price.
I added a Shelly smart really inside to have the unit remote controlled and on a schedule so it isn't running all day when no one is home.
I have an B130E65RS and here are my notes. 1) The ramp up and down of the fan when turning on is loud, it is quiet when running but the motor driver hits some annoying resonant frequencies of the motor coils or something where it is a little annoying when it comes on. 2) The minimum/low CFM that is automatically set when the unit turns on the first time will not run the unit continuously. I have to set the unit to medium to have it run continuously, in low mode the ERV does not stay on.
What does it do in low mode?
@@ccvideotechit runs in medium mode intermittently. Mine does the same thing.
I have a Broan 160cfm unit based on your recommendation of needing 120-130ish cfm when we did my Manual J. Unfortunately Broan exaggerates it's performance, it maxed out at 136cfm with no ducting, one would think it'd be 160cfm as advertised. That's unfortunately left me with no "boost" mode. It will run wide open all the time just to meet the 130cfm the house calls for.
Thank you for this warning --- I've been considering oversizing my ERV in my HVAC plans, and this gives me the justification to do so.
@@onecuriouscustomer No problem, after digging into it, it's fairly well documented. Why they do it, I don't know. Another thing, "boost" mode doesn't seem to be doing much for cfm beyond "max". It pulls the same amount of current and seems to be the same cfm as "max". In fact, when you put it in "boost" mode, the cfm read out dissappears. All in all it's a solid unit, I'd just have bought the 210cfm to have the overhead if I had known.
@@pyroman590 the advanced touchscreen controller lets you assign different cfm to boost and max if desired. The 210cfm model maxes out around 196 with my current setup and I run it at 170cfm for boost mode.
I wonder if you got a lemon and could exchange it. While my 210cfm broan ERV maxes out at 196cfm with my current setup, that's with a mix of rigid and flexible 6 and 8 inch ductwork. I haven't tried running it without ducting.
@@NurseAcrobat I have the advanced touch screen controller as well. It does not allow you to adjust past the limits defined by the self test on start up. The units not doing what they claim right out of the box is pretty well documented if you search for the reviews.
I’m installing one using a haven to control it next week. Looking forward to it
Probably the most comprehensive and practical description of a ventilation device I have found regardless of the type (HRV/ERV) or brand. We are in the process of removing ventilation from our HVAC contractor scope of work and moving it to our in-house team, at least with independently ducted systems because we are finding that our HVAC installers don’t seem to put much energy into understanding these systems. Thank you!
Thanks guys! Sounds like a solid plan- hard to get the HVAC techs’ attention these days.
@@HomePerformance 10 years ago I helped a partner design an HVAC product that solved a lot of problems. It added about $50.00 to a typical new installation but was something a homeowner would gladly pay for. Aside from a few forward thinking contractors it was largely ignored. The 150k plastic mold has probably been melted down by now for scrap by the injection guys. To say the HVAC contracting business is resistant to change is a gross understatement.
@philiplacey5430 so many good ideas get left by the wayside if they don’t make lots of $$
@@philiplacey5430 Can you give some hints, what type of innovation was it?
@@youtubereview8176 It was modular outdoor condenser pad that could be used to elevate the unit to avoid flooding. It was also wind rated to 140 mph.
This was a fantastic video! Sent this to our HVAC sub as he just wasn't tracking on what we were wanting to accomplish. So best places to pull stale air from...?
1. Bathrooms
2. Kitchen
3. Laundry/Mudroom
Yes, as long as you have a kitchen exhaust hood that's a big mother, going outside, AND IT GETS USED
0:48 Agreed. We spec the use of ERV and often have to teach the reason behind it.
Keep it up yall
Here in South Central Wisconsin it’s almost impossible to get a HVAC contractor to install an ERV. My neighbor just built a new house and they have an HRV installed that was recommended by the builder. If ERV is the way to go even in cold climates like Wisconsin why don’t companies just stop making HRV’s?
@jko0526 some do- Panasonic for example has never made an HRV. Several manuf are dropping their HRV options.
Hi Corbett. Have you ever heard of the US Dept of Energy's Solar Decathlon, which is held every couple of years and encourages students at architectural schools around the world to design and build a small house that is extremely well built and energy efficient? The houses, which are also typically designed to be off-grid, are then brought to one location (in the US it's usually the National Mall in Washington DC) for viewing by the public, and then judging for a winner.
I was thinking it would be interesting for you to do a "concept house" of what systems and equipment, appliances, products etc you would select for such a house. You've done many videos on your tiny house, and your much larger forever home, but i would like to see what you would do for something that was permanently located on a site, either grid-tied or off grid, and about the same size as one of the Solar Decathlon houses (about 800-1200 sq' in size).
Challenge accepted, Ryan
11:24 - Dang. I have a filter grille in my house in the ceiling of a hallway (oriented towards the attic where the HVAC stuff is). Sounds like _if_ int he future I wanted to add an ERV and wanted to do some extra filtration there, I should consider relocating the filter into the attic space, maybe, right? Especially since I'm already considering upgrading to an Aprilaire 2025FG13 grille (thanks for that recommendation, by the way). Thanks!
You could alternatively pump the fresh air out a grille right next to the return so it immediately gets sucked back in
Installed a Venmar, basically same unit, hrv a160h75rt.
Currently the supply vents are quite loud paying air into the rooms of the house. Unsure of why that's the case. 3000sqft home, running at 65 max, 35 min
Question - what are your thoughts about installing in an attic? In Florida generally it is the only place anything can fit. Everyone has either an air handler closet or the air handler is in the garage (which is another disaster all in itself).
Really like your content. I saw one of your older videos. You said you were not a fan of a Zender ERV. I wish you could explain why in a video sometime.
Thanks
Zender is $$$$$$$$$
That's already known. But is it worth it?
Zehnder is great but it's very expensive. If you want the best, go for it. But it's overkill. Like buying a Bentley for a commuter car.
Zehnder have great marketing. The performance of their ERVs is no better than competing products with counter-flow cores. Since most cheaper ERVs use cross-flow cores, you can honestly say that Z is better than most, but they’re not better than other premium HRVs using similar core technology. They do still cost more though.
One thing they offer that’s nice is their compact comfort-tube ductwork system, but it’s PROHIBITIVELY expensive and one of the big reasons the BOM on a Z installation is $3X more than others.
@@superspeeder Name names. Which companies use counter-flow cores other than Zehnder?
Literally just installed two of them in a new construction project. So thrilled you put this video out. I’m putting a QR code sticker to this video on the unit ! ;)
Keep up the amazing work. We love what you’re doing. ❤
One question: can you comment on noise of the unit. Trying to manage client expectations.
Great to hear- all ERVs make fan noise, no way around it. Since it runs 24/7, it’s easy to get used to- and remind them that it’s a key ingredient in their healthy home.
Hi Corbett,
You briefly mention the fireplace issue in the video. We couldn't resist adding one to our new home in northeast Georgia and I am concerned about backdraft because we will have a very tight home with spray foam insulation and European tilt-and-turn windows and doors. Do you have any suggestions or links to your videos on how to mitigate the backdraft issue?
Thank you for your awesome videos. I wish contractors would get out of the dark ages and listen to how things should be done. You are a wealth of fantastic information!!
Have you done any videos on Build Equinox CERV yet?
If I had the $8k, I’d install a CERV2. They are the best I think, but pricey! They recommend putting it before a whole home dehumidifier when feeding it into the ductwork.
@@davidhoover2446 I would go instead with the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 (contrary of the CERV2), and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024. It's also more capable BTU-wise for dehu and way smaller compared to the CERV2, so easier to install. Check it out 🙂.
Great explanation. Couple Qs and other never covered issues(by anyone).
Is there a bypass mode that can be remotely triggered to bypass the core at times that it's cooler outside and you want to bring that cooler air inside vs the ERV doing it's thing and having to run the AC.
And when I mow the grass... I have very sandy silty soil and it's a dust storm when mowing(My mower deck is always fresh steel from being sandblasted). Is there a simple remote button that I can use to disable the system. Or an interesting add on product would be a PPM meter that shuts the system off when the number gets too high for say 20 minutes then tests again and either restarts or shuts down again. And think filter changing amount of dust every time I mow.
My biggest personal issue with them is just the logistics of installation in older houses. Houses here don't have mechanical rooms, basements, crawlspaces etc. In our house I haven't a clue where I would put one. About the only place would be in an unconditioned attic or shove it in a closet and figure out a way to duct it and basically none of those options are doable since AC units are often upflow like in ours (unconditioned attic mounted air handlers are the norm though) Since our house is older it's one of the rare ones that have a crawlspace but not easily accessible.
Now one really odd application... I'd love to have the largest unit to put in my workshop. It would be nice to pull out dirty air when working in the shop and bring in fresh air without loosing all of that cold expensive air and replacing it with 100-110* outdoor air.
The broan AI ERV doesn't have a bypass mode while some other models like the Flair and Zehnder ERVs do, though for the price of the Flair/Zehnder you could get a Broan AI ERV and a ventilating Santa Fe dehumidifier that can also bring in fresh air. Of course getting everything ducted in requires space as mentioned, plus labor.
One interesting way I've seen someone make an ERV fit in a tight, hard to access spot was to put an in line fresh air filter outside so it wouldn't require insulation and the filters could be readily accessed to change them, and a stale air filter in the ceiling like an hvac return so they could do ERV maintenance without actually getting to the ERV.
@@NurseAcrobat I would go instead with the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024 for best comfort during not only the heating season but also for the summer as it's also a dehumidifier and a medical-grade filtration deive with as standard a HEPA MERV15 gasketed filter capturing about 90% of wild-fire smoke particules. Check it out!
So if bathroom fans are an option, what do you typically recommend for overall air renewal in the house? that phrase of yours got me thinking
If your using this in a conditioned attic space? Spray foam encapsulating the building, there would be no reason to insulate the duct work and register boxes correct?
Enjoyed the video. Thanks.
you mentioned not insulating the outside air supply line as a way to preheat the air slightly. How are you managing the frost and/or condensation as a result? I've thought about running concentric ducitng from the ERV to the outdoor exhaust and supply, then only insulating the outside line, but im worried ill still get frost/condensation on the inside of this. (this strategy would be like putting a really inefficient HRV just upstream of an ERV, for the sole purpose of a little preheating to avoid defrost cycles.
Would like to install one in our house here in Northern Virginia. Do you have any technicians that you were recommending in this area? Thanks in advance!
Just did a DIY install! Very basic question, does Standby mode mean that the unit is turned on but not running? Mine only seems to have 3 options with the unit controller, Max, Min and Stb. It doesn’t do intermittent or smart mode.
Good job! Those should be configurable in the second menu.
i love your channel. you say an ERV is best, but if i plan on exhausting air from my two bathrooms do i really want to capture the humidity and return it to the house?
Thanks for watching Brad. I got you buddy:
ERV vs. HRV Mythbusting: Which Ventilation is Safer for Moisture and Humidity?
ua-cam.com/video/QOe4lluGwCg/v-deo.html
I'm currently finishing up on my 2nd floor cut-in with a mitsubishi system (attic), the house originally had 1-system for the whole house. Since you've mentioned it's best to be in conditioned attic, and my isn't, is it still usable with insulations added to the unit (hopefully controller doesn't overheat)? I'm planning on getting their highest CFM model, that has the least amount of bells&whistles as possible (fancy means more problems). the reason for getting the highest cfm model is i'm hoping to also supply that to the basement system, to cut costs in installing 2 separate ERV and I wouldn't have any means to be able to add one to the basement system.
2 story colonial home plus basement.
At 22:00 you mention a 6”-8” reducer. This makes sense to me, are you suggesting an 8” elbow or initial section of duct (depending on what is needed) right off the unit before transitioning to 6” for the remainder of the run?
Do you have a link to the video covering the smart speed?
today, they installed me an A130E65RT. whatever we do (i did a reset multiple times and redone the initial config over and over again..) the unit set the max to 83 CFM and we cannot set it higher! why ?? i found that we can barely feel air coming out of any of the supply! (is this normal??) so for that reason we tried (contractor and myself) increasing the max, but as explained, there seem to be no ways to go beyond the max value that the unit initally calculated when doing its auto balancing.. thanks in advance for any help
so, i dont have room in conditioned space. Im at around lattitude Latitude: 30° 10' in Florida. I even had to put whole home dehumidifier in attic because no room in conditioned space. I built platform over support wall for both devices. What will be disadvantage for ERV? Santa Fe told me no problem for WHD (even though I understand WHD reaching dew point in attic.)
Let’s say your ERV fresh air is plumbed into the supply or return of your air handler and synced up with your air handler’s blower.
If your ERV is running continuously then your air handler is blowing continuously.
Will this not add humidity to your home in the summer by blowing the air over wet coils after your AC shuts off?
I know it’s not recommend to run your blower fan with the AC off for this reason.
Quick Question About Exhaust side. I used a Tee connection in My Duct line to exhaust different areas, and I noticed that suction pressure drops significantly between one Tee port and the other. So the further down the line the Duct goes the less and less suction power is present. I can increase the exhaust pressure by plugging part of the duct ports upstream. My guess is because I'm using the 6" Ducts, Maybe reducing the Duct size might help?? Have you noticed this? Is this normal? Or is it something that I'm doing wrong?
Awesome rundown of this ERV. I'd really like to have one installed and connected to my central air handler heat pump system. However, I noticed the min. required distance between the ERV supply and the air handler is 10 feet. Since my return duct comes straight down from the ceiling, I only have about 7 feet of return duct exposed. Does that mean I need to use T-3 or T-5? I'm also located in Canada, will it work in this climate?
It should be fine. I’ve seen a video where a person had 3 feet between the intake and the exhaust and it wasn’t a problem just make sure the vents directed opposite of each other if possible
What Humidifier would you recommend to go with this system? My HVAC guy is wanting to use the Aprilaire Model 700.
Currently building a house and doing my best to air seal the best we can without going crazy. Is there a certain point where you recommend having an ERV? If my blower door score is say 4 ACH50 would you NOT recommend?
Borderline of Balanced Home Ventilation: When Do I Need an ERV because Bath Fans Won't Work?
ua-cam.com/video/lnOCAPPVT5g/v-deo.html
I am building a 625sq home with an enclosed 4' crawl space. The hrv/erv will be installed in the crawl space. Climate is in Atlantic Canada new Brunswick, so I am not sure of hrv or erv?
Want to do it simple and functional..any recommendations would be great full.. thanks
downunder, supply ventilation systems are common and almost all run it off temperature like that units auto mode. useful when ventilation is a big cost to the heating/cooling of the home. however being an erv would you ever get that situation? also a problem we often get with that is the temps can change quick enough that you don't get much ventilation and the ventilation becomes weather dependent which is not what you want in a house. i really dislike intermittent running. storing the pollutants before venting them out seams poor.
also the erv conversation really needs to include dehumidification. i have seen erv's sold with no thought to moisture levels in the home.
I'm surprised on the ERV unit performance and it seems in my case. I have a sealed crawl space. The moisture load with the warm summer air, the ERV connection is the concern. Fresh air swapping is the best for the ERV but I would like something that acts like an ERV but removes the moisture too. Is this possible without running the 4 ton heatpump for 2400 SqFt? I enjoyed your thorough review of the product.
Dedicated dehumidifier is probably what you need Dan
Used my Fit70E to “blower-door” test my 470 square foot THOW. 56 pascals. 1.02 ACH50.
I went with ventilating dehumidifier that has an extra controller (haven). Seems like this has a bit of this stuff built in.
I had an UltraAire 70H installed. It was great for a year, then the dehumidifier portion stopped working. It was replaced under warranty 3X and recharged once ($$$). Now no one locally will service it. So now all it does is pump barely filtered outside air in. The intake is less than a foot above the ground, on the south side (which is good, it never ices up) where the neighbor less than 20 ft away uses those horrible Unstoppables in their clothes dryer, has a service fertilize and chemicalize their lawn, etc. The town's streetsweeper went by the other day with no water being used to keep dust down and the PM 2.5 shot way up in a sudden spike. Current ducting is wrong for an ERV but that's why I'm here watching this video.
@@jheckmann i have mine about 20 feet at the peak of a gable. I live out in the country.
0:30 hold up that's kinda goofy. They could just mount a heatsink thats coupled to the body/chassis near the supply that goes *into* the home. That airstream is supposed to be near room temperature, right? Why bother with deficated cooling.
20:00 oh I see, is it that the big mosfets are the big power disappaters?
I'm in the northeast (zone 5 - VT)
~1 ach
-Minisplits for both heat & ac
-Smallish 18000 cubic foot home
I'm shopping for an erv/hrv right now, but have been leaning toward an hrv as I start to air seal more. Currently I'm seeing ~48%-50% winter rh and 65%-70% summer rh with current tightness and a 50cfm constant-run bath fan going 24/7/365
I'm thinking that as I seal up more, I might get towards the higher end of the ideal (40%-60%?) indoor rh range in winter and thus won't want to retain moisture with the air handler (erv) in the heating season......
General thoughts?
Hey Steve . I’m in western MA , energy consult. I’d go with an ERV up there and don’t run your bath fan continuously. Especially with right sized heatpumps , no need for HRV dehumid help in summer . Impressive you are able to maintain such high RH in the winter . The ERV winter impact that much
can i pull bad air from living room and bedroom and supply them both, in an existing home in ohio and we just discovered how high are co2 levels are, thank you
Wow. Excellent video.
Thx man
What are your thoughts about the prop 65 cancer warning on ERV’s? Seems concerning for something that’s gonna be on daily
As someone who worked in manufacturing for over a decade prop 65 warnings go on anything that isn't purposefully tested for lead. anything made with steel or copper or has a battery in it that isn't verified lead free gets the warning. its kind of like the gluten free label. all tortilla chips are by definition made from corn not wheat so they are gluten free but the factory that are made in might not have the protocols in place to get the certified label so then they can't print gluten free on the packaging. prop 65 really only has business being on products that interact with your food but its hard to draw that line definitively. Every box of screws, nails, battery, light bulb, TV, refrigerator, even things that have nothing to do with lead like printer paper has a prob 65 label. Look at the fine print on pretty much every product that you buy has that label on it unless its food or something you eat off of. its a poorly implemented consumer warning that gets way too much attention. The better way to do it is if the state of California tested products for lead and if they found even trace level of lead in it then they would mandate a label but that would be too expensive instead all products are considered guilty of containing lead unless other wise proven lead free and its such a legal hurdle to achieve lead free manufactures don't even want to attempt to process.
Did i hear you right at the 14:00 mark? You dont recommend erv’s unless someone can not use a bath fan?? I may be misunderstanding the statement bc i thought ERVs were recommended for all tight homes.
Yes, to replace the bath fans
Egon always says, "don't cross the streams".
I love your videos and have a couple questions.
Im building house in Orlando and have 2 carrier HVAC heat pump systems (upstairs and downstairs) and im planning on using a BR130E65RS and BR160E75RS respectively. Air handlers are next to each other in sealed attic. Planning on using T4 ducting as adding after the duct has been installed with venting through the roof.
Is it possible to share the same external supply and exhaust holes?
If so, any recommendation on if it’s better to merge the duct closer to ERV or roof and what size of duct and exterior hole?
Thanks!
Hey Laurence- I would not advise sharing ports. And don’t intake air on or over the roof, it’ll be stinky. Good luck with your build!
Thanks. Our house is 2 story ICF. So we don’t have to cut 4 holes in the walls is it possible to put intake in the soffit and exhaust in roof?
👍🏽
What do you think about the New Broan ONE vs the AI 160?
I like the ONE better
What are your thoughts on Broan AI vs Panasonic Intelli-Balance 200? I'm in the early building of a new high-performance home. I currently have many pieces of ventilation from Broan. One thing that gives me hesitation about Broan is my experience with our Broan BEST Range Hood. They are costly, as in $2,500. We needed a repair on it was a nightmare in working with Broan. Took close to 4 months to get the correct parts and diagnosis.
Hmm, I have heard horror stories about basically every brand you can think of. But my own experience and that of my clients for the past 8 years has been positive. They are a big company, which can help or hurt depending on the way the wind blows I guess.
I like these better than Intellibalance.
Eric , Broan self balances , Panasonic does not(at least the 100 unit, I have not seen a 200 but expect the same). Broan is the clear winner . Panasonics work well if properly commissioned at install , but as filters get dirty and kids wonk the diffusers , may fall out of balance
I spoke with a Panasonic rep at JCL Live a few weeks ago and told him, I was buying Broan AI unless he could sell me on Panasonic. He said he couldn’t. Unless I could wait until July. The current Panasonic ERV isn’t as great as the Broan AI, but Panasonic said they’re coming out with a new ERV system in July 2024 and it’s supposed to be much better. So if you can wait…. Could be worth it.
Great news, thanks for sharing
@@pettydesign Appreciate the info. Any thoughts on bath fans? Thoughts on the Broan ULTRA GREEN XB Series 110 CFM Multi-Speed Bathroom Exhaust Fan w/LED Light Humidity Sensing ENERGY STAR® certified?
Just setting one of these up (V160E75RT, sold under VanEE here) and finding the house interior return & supplies have a crazy amount of fan noise for only pushing even 35cfm on low, and very loud at 90cfm+ with about 12' of 6" hard pipe and two long 90s... dedicated ERV ducts, not shared. Seems to be only mech fan noise, not at all from the duct work air turbulance, otherwise 35cfm would be fine.
*Getting 128cfm for both in/out on the Broan self-test, so duct design is great, likely ~0.25"wc according to their spec chart.
Anything you are suggesting for new installs to combat this? It's easily 4-5x louder than my heatpump supplies pushing ~65cfm down a 6" to 4x10" boot. My sheetmetal guy is suggesting adding in a 4-6' long U (180deg) out of insulated flex to act as a muffler, TBD if that works
You could literally add a muffler, Fantech makes a duct silencer in all sizes.
@@HomePerformance Yeah, those might be a good option, do you spec those for all installs? I'll meter the duct freq and see if those target the right range (500-4000hz looks like great performance numbers on the Fantech LD6)
Mostly just surprised with the need, considering a 6" duct 350cfm inline range hood fan has about 1/4 the noise as this unit running at 35cfm... not at all what I expected to come from a very highly rated model ERV
Update on this: ended up ripping out all the brand new hard pipe ducting from my install and replaced both indoor supply/return runs with flex (Thermaflex S-TL) and it's bearable now when under
@dbatchphoto I’m about to swap out my own Fantech SER ERVs for a 210 and 160, and will have more experience with your issue soon.
@@HomePerformance Maybe reach out to your sales contact/product manager (Travis Rasch?) if you're paying out of pocket for them, and see if they have any advice? I'm sure I'm not the only one finding them way too loud... The fact I could still hear the unit's initial turbulence/blowers through 10' of rigid 6", with two 90s, into a tin plenum, then out every 15' of 6" rigid return run with two more 90s... is absolutely wild.
So far loving the self-balancing, it really does work when I throw an exhaust-only load on the house, I can see the intake fan go 5-20cfm out of balance, then within 1-3 seconds level back off at a stable 0-2cfm difference as it corrects for the new change in pressure.
The other thing is the super underwhelming real-world CFM. Mine out of the box with zero ducts on it, was only getting 126cfm, even with the internal filter removed... when the static pressure whitesheet chart shows it should be getting 145+CFM at
I live in Chicago, and I see no way that I can provide incoming air at 23f or more all year long. What to do?
Don’t insulate the incoming air duct. Passive pre-heater.
Thanks again for another great video. I am a Career Tech Educator building Tiny homes with high school and adult Ed students. Would you recommend the 130 CFM unit for our application?
Keep up the good work- happy to consult with your class because of course it depends, but probably yes. Check out my tiny spaces course if you like: login.buildingperformanceworkshop.com/tiny-spaces
@@HomePerformance Thanks so much for responding and the encouragement! I have your course and its great but now we need to purchase the right gear and design the install. I will get budget approval for some consult time because the 'it depends' factors need your help.
@@practacularhomediy I would sugggest you check also the Minotair PentaCare V12 Series, which has ventilation performances certified by HVI since 2019 and now with industry-record SRE of 129% since their recertification August 2024 for best comfort during not only the heating season but also for the summer as it's also a dehumidifier and a medical-grade filtration deive with as standard a HEPA MERV15 gasketed filter capturing about 90% of wild-fire smoke particules. Check it out!
Thanks for the video! I love learning this!
Love it!!! More please!
Can you get add a co2 sensor to this system to achieve a target co2 level?
I'm also curious about this. The broan product page says the ERV is compatible with their Overture Connected IAQ system but I haven't seen any detail on how they work together.
i have a ventilating dehumidifer with a haven air monitroy. It can control the fresh air damper based on co2 and voc levels. Also will do lockouts for temp/bad air quality.
Yes, always! Just ensure good enough mixing in the space for the metering sensor to be useful.
Where does a dehumidifier get installed? Before going into the ERV or after?
After, but I might not recommend plugging one directly into the other
@@HomePerformance I live in a cold climate, so I guess I would just use a pre-heater like you mention, but the manual says for T-4 and T-5 (which I would need to do) " (THIS CONFIGURATION DOES NOT ALLOW RECIRCULATION MODE TO OPERATE.) So I was concerned that the unit would not defrost properly because the air recirculates in the core? Would I be reading that correctly? So I would not be able to have defrost on?
Also it says the unit has to be synced to the furnace to prevent mold growth. So I would not be able to run it continuously, it would have to be interlocked to the furnace.
Renew Aire says it can operated under a "T-5" setup and that the ERV can operated separately from the furnace. (Which is what I would want to have continuous air coming in, without using the furnace blower 100% of the time). Also, I don't think Renew Aire needs to defrost. So my question would be would the BROAN AI still work for me or do I have to get a Renew Aire, if that makes sense.
@michaelsuggett710 they all have to defrost somehow- when recirc is not allowed, it’ll just shut down incoming air and turn into an exhaust fan. Renewaire would either do that too or just shut down entirely- tech support would know.
@@HomePerformance Thanks for the response! Very helpful!
Confused as why my new home builder chose an HRV in Northern California...
Because of mythology
I thought it depends on where you live whether you get an erv or hrv. I'm in zone 5 cold climate.
That’s outdated advice. ERV all the way for you.
@@HomePerformance thank you!
we don't have broan in Europe :(
That’s ok, you’ve got awesome stuff we don’t have in the US!
@HomePerformance what would your picks be?
@57skies I don’t know most of them but BSK from Turkey impressed me, Brink, Zehnder, and Panasonic should all be available. ERV, not HRV.
Pushing air into the bedrooms and pulling it out of bathrooms will create a howling gale under your doors which will be particularly unpleasant in your bathroom. Putting a supply vent into the bathroom ceiling as far away as possible from the shower exhaust vent and with the outlet designed to give it some throw will sweep the steam out of the bathroom above human head height without creating draughts.
None of this is accurate
@@HomePerformance you've never stepped out of the shower and felt a cold draught on your feet and ankles from the air pulled in under the bathroom door to replace the air removed by the extractor fan? How big are your bathrooms, that you can't feel that?
Many years ago my parents owned a house that had ducted air conditioning to all the bedrooms, but a centralised return in the hallway just outside the guest bedroom door. That was worse than having a draught under the door, because the door was fitted snug to the carpet and air wouldn't flow under it at all. In the middle of an Australian summer with the wall insulation of a house that was built in the eighties and big single-glazed windows letting in more heat all night, none of the bedrooms had any cooling unless you left the door open. My parents didn't mind when it was just them in the house, but as a visitor it felt very awkward. I like my bedroom door closed at night.
Any room that you want ventilated while the door is closed, you need the supply and exhaust both in the same room. Otherwise it's just not going to work - you either have a draught under the door if the gap is big enough, or you have no airflow at all.
@@tealkerberus748you could put a vent above the door that will be used when a door is closed
@@ruslanmansurov5419 you could, but you'd need a self-closing vent to make sure steam and odours from the bathroom didn't go out through the vent - and when it is open, you'd have sound transmission which isn't great out of a bathroom either. I'd rather just duct every room properly.
Why don't you like the recirc defrost?
Explained pretty thoroughly in the vid, Jacob- ERV exhaust will be showery or stinky
@@HomePerformance Fair enough, but that's maybe 1 hour a day right?
@jacobkomar576 nono- see the defrost time split in the vid or manual. It’s like 50/50
Sorry, I meant the time spent showering or "smelling" up the bathroom isn't that long. So if someone goes in bathroom and hits boost, it would run for 20 before even going into defrost. Likely time that you are recirculating bad air isn't that long. I'm in Edmonton Canada so pretty cold. I wanted the dual core Tempeff unit but it's over $6500. That one doesn't need defrost
@@jacobkomar576 you can get a RenewAire which does not require a defrost cycle for less than the Broan. No smarts like this one, no lcd control, but does have some push button controls to put into bathrooms. I am going with the Broan AI, but if I were in Canada and was sending exhaust streams out the ERV I would probably get the RenewAire.
Where did you get your ERV... It's a bit dusty on the top surfaces... 😅 Every time you touch the AI unit, i see new finger prints...
Chat GPT does not agree with using an ERV in cold climates. So i do not understand why someone who professes to be an expert would state ERVs are the best option for all installations. It frustrating when self professed experts mislead us and potentially create expensive issues in our home. For cold climate will e installing the Broan HRV model
Haha holy crap, you’re taking Chat Geppetto over a human specialist, I love it. Keep doing you.
@ In Ontario’s climate, an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) is generally more practical than an ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator). Here’s why:
1. Cold Climate Performance: HRVs are specifically designed for cold climates like Canada’s. They transfer only heat (not moisture) from outgoing to incoming air, which prevents unwanted humidity from entering during cold winters.
2. Humidity Control: ERVs exchange both heat and moisture, which can help in hot and humid climates. However, in Ontario, this could lead to excess indoor humidity in winter, which can cause condensation issues, particularly with windows and insulation.
3. Ventilation Efficiency: In areas with significant seasonal changes, an HRV is generally more efficient and effective for maintaining a balanced indoor environment without risking extra moisture accumulation.
That said, ERVs are becoming more advanced, and some newer models do perform well in certain cold climates. However, if moisture control and simplicity are priorities, the HRV is likely the better choice for your home.
@ instead of just talking nonsense you could’ve explained why ERV would work in cold climate but instead, you’re just insult me thanks. All I’m trying to do is make sure I’m getting the correct information for purchasing an air exchanger for my home.
@alnascar97 i think humidity outsidreqn real winter is very low here in Ontario.
I'd rather ventilate my house by opening windows then dealing with this over complicated crap that constantly needs to be cleaned, filter replaced and then fixed after it breaks. On top of that ERVs must have dedicated duct-work, because integrating it with an existing duct system would be very hard to balance. The heat ex-changer inside those ERVs allegedly recover both: temperature and moisture. As in case of temperature I can agree but I will never believe that it can actually separate moisture from outside air and inside air. Proof?....ERVs increase humidity inside a house in the summer in humid climate and reduces humidity during winter in dry climate...that is exactly what we try to avoid. Cost of these gadgets doesn't justify benefits. Maybe it does in commercial or in public buildings like schools etc (it is required by law to provide adequate ventilation in those type of venues), but as a homeowner and HVAC tech I'd say: stay away from this or....spend money and regret it later. Cheap solution for cheap ventilation: get a thermometer with relative humidity function and ventilate your house manually foe an hour or two...or three (by opening window and placing a case fan in it the way that it blows fresh air into your home) when outside temperature and humidity is lower or equal to that in your house. These condition are early in the morning in southern states. It is much cheaper, few grand vs $35 fan + $10 RH thermometer and you wont need to install a dehumidifier that is needed when you install ERV. Another crappy product on market that nobody needs.
What would you do in dead winter (temps in teens)? Probably not open a window…
Where’d your hair go? Barely recognized you
It’s up there, don’t worry
Hello, you said “I never recommend an ERV when it is possible to use a bath fan “ … why is that? Could you elaborate please? Thank you.
Love your deep dives. Can you control the the speed (CFM), and perhaps other settings or modes of these units with a home automation system?
Thanks for the overview. Can you remind us which bug screen you chose which doesn’t create a significant pressure drop?