Concrete guys use cloth tapes a lot of the time and the stretch in tape is what caused your 2 inches in my best guess . I put those buildings up for 25 years and every time we had a issue with anchor bolts and slab being to long it was concrete contractor with a cloth tape . always verify with concrete guy that he uses a steel tape and double check him before the pour or lay it out with him . the time wasted babysitting that step saves so much money and time in the long run it makes it a good insurance policy. I learned
@@bar6builds605 it happens and just curious are you going to ask them about the tape ? Had a good friend that was my concrete guy and he never realized the stretch in the tape . but when doing a hundred ft plus building it grows fast
I am in the process of pricing out a steel building and found this video very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to post your process and especially what went wrong. No telling how many people you just helped out!
Super video and you can see why each trade can get pissy when something is a bit off. Not that it can't be fixed but everybody is a little late on time frames and just part of the job as long as it's reasonable. Appreciate the pros!
Even though you dealt with shoddy people in setting out the concrete and holding down bolts you have to accept that you stuffed up in not checking all measurements before starting to install the steel columns.
Thanks for a very informative video. I wish I had seen it a year ago before I started putting up my building. I didn't have any post bolts off as far as your one post, but all of my were off far enough to really mess me up. I ended up buying a mag drill and redrilling all of the holes in the posts. Then to compensate for the oversized holes, I had a local machine shop make some square washers out of quarter inch mild steel with an offset hole so they would work on all four of the bolts for each post by simply rotating it to match the offset for that anchor bolt. It worked, but it cost me an extra week of equipment rental on the telehandler. I almost couldn't keep it for the extra week because they were squeezing me in between two long term rentals, but they found a way and saved my butt. I never did the the building completely square (did I mention that I'm not a pro...), but it was close enough to sheet and all of the openings were square. My wife and I did sheeting on the walls, but I hired pros to do the roof, but the head of the company couldn't handle that it wasn't perfectly square and had his crew making swiss cheese out of my purlins and roofing sheets. I had to sack them after they got 1/3 done because they wouldn't listen to me about squaring to the building centerline. I used a laser aligned with the building centerline to put a square line across the building and marked the placement of the remaining panels on the eve and the top purlin for each side. My wife and I got the rest of the roof on in a couple of days, then I had to go back and move every sheet and roof cap they had installed, that took two weeks. I'm pretty sure it is leaking, I'm going to have to go up there next dry spell and dump a bunch of butyl caulking in all of the joints and the "extra" openings they created. I wish I could have found a builder locally to put it up, but there was nobody in the area who had time.
I just bought a mag for the steel going in the house. Sub Contractors will never care like an owner. I like to save money doing it myself but really no one will do it how I want it.
Never saw a steel building going up. This is all familiar to you but now as you show us how these go together, again I'm curious how all these supports and hardware are represented on a blueprint. I guess after raising 5-10 of these your very familiar with what has to be done. It doesn't appear to be very complicated. Just make sure that as you progress in the build, make everything plumb and level. What surprised me is when you commented that these beams are able to bow. Now I want to know what gauge is the steel that your using? Your teaching us Noobs quite a lot about raising these steel buildings. Thanks for the lesson.
the reason i didnt talk about the blueprints is because every company is different. I didnt want to confuse anyone. It takes some searching to find what components go where. the girts on the walls are light gauge but their strength is not virtically. girts are very strong laterally. the siding holds them up vertically and the girt supports all the wind load against it. The purlins on the roof are the same story, very floppy until you get the metal on then very strong. thanks for watching
It's your building so it's a chalk it up to my working as much as I can. Easy for me to say as I watch the video but I wish I was there to help and recheck the measurements so you would not have this headache. Not many GC's would admit it's their fault. You have Good Character@@bar6builds605
@@bar6builds605 some are just special aren't they? You spend countless hours creating content for the benefit of others, and get mindless feedback. Ignore the ingrates, most of them would be lost at "level".
Concrete guys use cloth tapes a lot of the time and the stretch in tape is what caused your 2 inches in my best guess . I put those buildings up for 25 years and every time we had a issue with anchor bolts and slab being to long it was concrete contractor with a cloth tape . always verify with concrete guy that he uses a steel tape and double check him before the pour or lay it out with him . the time wasted babysitting that step saves so much money and time in the long run it makes it a good insurance policy. I learned
25 years I'll bet you know every trick to these buildings. Yes I didn't verify because I have used the same crew for so long. Burned me on this one
@@bar6builds605 it happens and just curious are you going to ask them about the tape ? Had a good friend that was my concrete guy and he never realized the stretch in the tape . but when doing a hundred ft plus building it grows fast
Ya I'll ask him. Cloth tapes are good for staking out but that's about it.
I am in the process of pricing out a steel building and found this video very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to post your process and especially what went wrong. No telling how many people you just helped out!
Good I'm glad it's getting to someone. Siding and roof video is coming
Cool seeing how well the sealer works!
Ya it surprised me. I lost the footage but I rolled it on heavy with a roller same day we poured
Super video and you can see why each trade can get pissy when something is a bit off. Not that it can't be fixed but everybody is a little late on time frames and just part of the job as long as it's reasonable. Appreciate the pros!
Even though you dealt with shoddy people in setting out the concrete and holding down bolts you have to accept that you stuffed up in not checking all measurements before starting to install the steel columns.
I was working I couldn't get there. Obviously looking back something should have been done
Thanks for a very informative video. I wish I had seen it a year ago before I started putting up my building. I didn't have any post bolts off as far as your one post, but all of my were off far enough to really mess me up. I ended up buying a mag drill and redrilling all of the holes in the posts. Then to compensate for the oversized holes, I had a local machine shop make some square washers out of quarter inch mild steel with an offset hole so they would work on all four of the bolts for each post by simply rotating it to match the offset for that anchor bolt. It worked, but it cost me an extra week of equipment rental on the telehandler. I almost couldn't keep it for the extra week because they were squeezing me in between two long term rentals, but they found a way and saved my butt.
I never did the the building completely square (did I mention that I'm not a pro...), but it was close enough to sheet and all of the openings were square. My wife and I did sheeting on the walls, but I hired pros to do the roof, but the head of the company couldn't handle that it wasn't perfectly square and had his crew making swiss cheese out of my purlins and roofing sheets. I had to sack them after they got 1/3 done because they wouldn't listen to me about squaring to the building centerline. I used a laser aligned with the building centerline to put a square line across the building and marked the placement of the remaining panels on the eve and the top purlin for each side. My wife and I got the rest of the roof on in a couple of days, then I had to go back and move every sheet and roof cap they had installed, that took two weeks. I'm pretty sure it is leaking, I'm going to have to go up there next dry spell and dump a bunch of butyl caulking in all of the joints and the "extra" openings they created.
I wish I could have found a builder locally to put it up, but there was nobody in the area who had time.
I just bought a mag for the steel going in the house. Sub Contractors will never care like an owner. I like to save money doing it myself but really no one will do it how I want it.
Never saw a steel building going up. This is all familiar to you but now as you show us how these go together, again I'm curious how all these supports and hardware are represented on a blueprint. I guess after raising 5-10 of these your very familiar with what has to be done. It doesn't appear to be very complicated. Just make sure that as you progress in the build, make everything plumb and level. What surprised me is when you commented that these beams are able to bow. Now I want to know what gauge is the steel that your using? Your teaching us Noobs quite a lot about raising these steel buildings. Thanks for the lesson.
the reason i didnt talk about the blueprints is because every company is different. I didnt want to confuse anyone. It takes some searching to find what components go where. the girts on the walls are light gauge but their strength is not virtically. girts are very strong laterally. the siding holds them up vertically and the girt supports all the wind load against it. The purlins on the roof are the same story, very floppy until you get the metal on then very strong. thanks for watching
Great job! I don't mind the long videos but shorter more often would be great also.
Holy crap you made it to the end. I'll try to shorten them up
Will you grout the base where you had to raise up the posts? Nice job dealing with the problems. Will be a great space once it's done.
I just poured around them. I've done grout before but I thought it was fine to pour over them
Who's job is it to make sure the foundation is sized and placed correctly ? The GC ?
First the concrete guy but GC should always verify. I didn't verify so I screwed myself
It's your building so it's a chalk it up to my working as much as I can. Easy for me to say as I watch the video but I wish I was there to help and recheck the measurements so you would not have this headache. Not many GC's would admit it's their fault. You have Good Character@@bar6builds605
will the sheeting not cover the extra 3 in
I spread the sheets on the front side to make up the 2.5 inch. On the roof. I was able to hide it on the walls
Which model laser are you using?
The big one is the stabila la180L. The small one is a 200$ spectra but they don't last very long. Searching for a better dot laser
"Engieneered"? What am I missing? Or is it just not knowing how to use Spell Check?
That's all you got out of this video?
@@bar6builds605 some are just special aren't they? You spend countless hours creating content for the benefit of others, and get mindless feedback. Ignore the ingrates, most of them would be lost at "level".