Hi I changed the plug thermo wax cleaned all the jets in the carb, still surging badly, I redone all carb cleaning and jets at least twenty times, then by accident I removed the metal arm which hold the springs to the carb, removed split pin removed the shaft, cleaned replaced the arm , started the mower started first time,runs perfectly, al I can think the arm was not sitting on the shaft properly, no surging at all , hope this helps other people.
This is the first time I repair a lawn mower with automatic choke. I saw the two bolts with paint on them and thought I shouldn't really do this but it didn't work so I had nothing to lose. I also got concerned when all the gaskets dropped as they didn't stay stuck to the parts. I got all the way to the thermowax part but didn't know what it dd. Was about to give up and I hate doing that but put it back together and still wasn't working then watched this video. You did a great job with the video so easy to understand and realized what the thermowax did and then realized it was the problem. Picked up the part this morning and 10 minutes to reassemble and it works like a charm thanks to you 0:22
Thanks for sharing this video I just checked my choke and found the problem, after taking my mower to the repair shop and being told I needed a new mower I’m so glad I didn’t get sucked in because I’m gonna get the part and replace it myself 🙂
Before tackling this repair, give your local Honda dealer a call with serial number and engine code as this repair may be covered by recall or special policy. This issue was fairly common and Honda was covering this at no cost to owner. I was formally (retired warranty clerk) and we covered a number of these repairs for customer satisfaction 😉
Bro, you saved my life. I needed to do some PM and clean my carb. I took it apart and panicked when it all fell apart. Thanks to you, she's running good as new.
Excellent video & instructions. I'm qualified to make this statement because i have watched at least 25 other lawn mower repair videos. Additionally, i have watched easily over 100 repair videos on everything from gas dryer centrifugal switch to Mercedes Benz Active Body Control (ABC) hydraulic pump replacement, and everything inbetween. Keep up the good work!
Replaced the thermowax unit, still needed a shot of starting fluid to do a cold start. Hot start was ok. Cleaned carb, no better. Choke appeared to be closed when cold. The metal post on the top of the carb is the stop for the choke pivot shaft. I ground off a little material from the metal post which allowed the choke to close another 5 or 10 percent. Now it starts with one pull.
Time for me to eat some humble pie! I said I ground down shaft a few months ago to allow choke to close more. It worked then. Last week it was running too rich when warm. By slipping a piece of tube over shaft to restore its original dimension it now works ok, for now! Adjusted governor, seemed to help. I decided it’s a tricky system, every thing must be just so. I miss the old manual chokes I grew up with!
AFTER replacing the air filter, the spark plug and the gas filter, my mower still would not start. Thank you for this video on replacing the choke actuator was found, and while getting the part out is a pain(I used a small vise grip), it did work. Thanks for saving me time and money, since my local repair shop couldn't even look at the problem for 3-4 weeks, and I was already considering a new mower.
Cheers. Pulled my old Mountfield out this morning. Choke stuck open exactly as you said. Took the two bolts out, pulled the thingy forward bolted back up. Fired in a few pulls. Will order the part now. Top stuff.
yes after losing a 100.00 and a new carb I did not need I see what my problem is now. Ordered the thermowax I will change it myself thanks to your video. Peace
Thank you very much for this video!! My choke was stuck half way open making the engine sputter. Little WD40 and it loosened up. Running like a champ. Thanks again.
Thanks for a great and much needed video. I've spent over five days researching Honda literature and countless videos on UA-cam without much success. I knew I had a choke problem but there were no videos showing this Thermal Wax device and it's purpose. Even in the Honda literature. So once again thanks and I'll subscribe to your channel and recommend to others. Happy Thanksgiving.
A tip for cold weather climates. Clean out the Honda bond inside the thermo wax housing and wrap the new one with some foil so the heat transfer from the engine will engage/ disengage it more accurately.
Thanks. I hate reassembly but watching your video helped a lot. Practice makes perfect. My mower has a throttle control that the bolts have to go through right behind the air filter housing which makes it even harder. What a pain in the neck.
opened up a used GCV160 mower I picked up (only started right after I bought it). Had the autochoke thermostat removed, was missing gaskets and the card had been changed to a manual choke carb but disconnected, no control. Made some gaskets and tied a rope to the manual choke to operante it =). Runs like a champ
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it. It was exactly what I was looking for in regards to troubleshooting this lawnmower my neighbor had given me.
Excellent video. I had no idea how the choke works and if I put everything back together properly when I cleaned the carburetor. Now I know what to look for. My concern was the linkage to the choke which you covered well. Thanks!!
I was looking for Diablo 4 leveling builds and this showed up on my "Reccomended" feed. Just here t say quality content, hit like for the algorithms lol cheers bro I don't even have a mower gonna get one now and stop paying someone
So my butterfly thing keeps flipping and staying open, even though it was closed before starting. It will start and run, then die and the butterfly thing will be open. Any ideas?
you made this reassembly look easy. I ended up going to Park Rose Hardware today and buying a 70mm socket cap screw to hold the carb and auto choke in place then sliding on the plastic air cleaner holder over the head of the cap screw (grinder and drill reduced the cap screw a little to fit the hole in the plastic), then replaced one 10mm bolt first. backing out the socket head cap screw on the other side and putting the 10mm bolt in its place. It was a fiasco, but I beat the lawn mower and it started right up so I could finish mowing. Success was sweet but your method is a whole lot simpler ... didn't think of it.
My mower isn't a Honda, but It has the new one-pull start feature that doesn't always start with one pull. I'm familiar with the older mower engines with the primer bulb, so this auto-choke thing is new to me.
Not the problem I had BUT saw the problem I created putting the wrong carb on and forgetting how to reassemble. I have a couple of dead mowers that were running great so that being said. I’m subbing and bingeing. Thanks
I just replaced my carb and I was having a heck of a time trying hold everything together as far the gaskets, plates. etc. Low and behold it took me two try's to assemble, but Walla Thanks again for the video.
I have a similar problem but my HONDA GCV160 WILL NOT START WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. So I mow the backyard, turn off the mower and by the time I take the short walk to the front lawn the mower will not start. I must wait until the engine cools before it will start again - 30-40 min. Do you have a remedy for this problem?
I have a 25 year old Honda 150CC engine and the choke never worked even when it was new. I discovered that with a nearly full tank of gas, you can tilt the mower 90 degrees on its right side, count to 10 slowly on a warm day and to 20 on a cold day, and fuel dribbles into the engine which provides the perfect prime to start the engine. I'll see if it also works on the GCV160 as well.
My same model cranks but runs too rich. So with what I learned from this excellent video, I will check the auto choke part and probably will see that it does not open very much and the engine soon dies out.
My air cleaner has three bolts and is a bear to put on. I had to clean the jets and even removed the flag that limits the idle circuit travel so I could clear it.. I was not aware of how to fix the auto choke, so I added a manual Thanks for this video. Very clear and helpful info to see how all the gaskets fit. I would rather that Honda put in at least one or two studs instead of using bolts. Predator clone engines use studs on their horizontal engines and that makes it much easier to work on.
With businesses hiring just anyone, I am sure a repair shop would say buy a new mower. In fact, alot of trades do that. Tech is lazy or dimwitted, advises to go buy a new unit. Good video.
Thank You Bryan, I was given a 12 year old Honda lawnmower that wouldn’t start. It wasn’t the thermowax part. A very dirty carb. Now my problem is it leaks gas from the air filter box. What causes this ? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You most likely have some corrosion in the carburetor causing the needle to not seat properly. This will cause the gas to overfill in the carb bowl. I would advise buying an OEM carburetor for around $30 and swapping it out. You can also check your float and make sure there is no gas inside by shaking it.
Worked for me don't know if it was I adjusted the piston pin, just took thew pin out and put it back in, or draining last yrs. gas that did it. sounds better than ever. and im an old lady.
Having an issue where I replaced the carb, it starts and stays on but it feels like it’s not at full throttle or the engine is weak. The moment I run it over any grass it struggles to stay on. Keeping it on in the same position is no problem though.
I has this same problem. My mower parts list had the same rectangular barrel as you showed, but when I disassembled the unit, it used a circular barrel choke instead. Got the right part, and the problem was fixed. Thanks. P.S. I noticed that your carburetor did not have an idle adjust screw. Is that common with Honda mowers?
Thanks for watching. This model did not have an idle adjust screw. However, I’ve seen them on other Honda engines. I’ve noticed on this model the engine will idle lower as the governor return spring stretches.
I noticed your auto choke mechanism goes over the outside round portion of where thermostat sits. Mine does not do that and I'm having trouble with choke opening.
Hi, thanks for video. So on a cold engine the thermowax needle should be retracted in and not pointing out? Noticed mine is pointing out even though the engine is cold, so Im guessing I need a new one? This comes after the engine suddenly started bucking and spluttering mid mow, Im guessing the choke was engaging from a faulty thermowax? Another question, the drivebelt seems a bit sloppy. Im guessing cable adjustment is necessary? Belt seems in OK condition.
That’s correct, it should be full retracted when the engine is cold and push out once it warms up. If you have the same model in the video, the self-propel cable has an adjustment on it near the bottom of the handle.
Great video! My big problem is trying to get the bolts screwed back on the motor. I've just spent at least 3hrs trying to screw them back on! I'm frustrated!
I find them difficult too :(. I resorted to using 2 wooden dowels that were kinda snug in the threaded holes on the manifold, got everything back in place and carefully removed one dowel, installed the original bolt and repeated for the 2nd side. It's a lot easier if the mower isn't on the ground for sure, I raise the carb side by stuffing the edge of a plastic milk crate under the deck to give me a better view.
What if my black and decker mower self propelled..my choke door had a little top piece of plastic over carb that has a spring that went haywire. It's a tiny tiny spring about inch or less long. But it helps open my carb door when you move the odd shape plastic piece above it..thr spring is on a small cylinder like piece of plastic. But there is several spots it could wrap around one or all 3 of the tiny cylinders of plastic. Only spring seems broken..... I can't figure out how it was on there previously to make my choke close.... I can't crank mower. I cleaned carb checked spark. It pull cord is fine with a rumble not a crank...
I had, actually still have but don't use, a 48" cut walk behind commercial Honda mower I used for about 20 years in my approximately 3 acre lawn until it caught fire and melted the intake manifold. Only time I ever had trouble starting it even after sitting during the winter months was when the throttle cable came lose at the carb and it wasn't actually going into choke mode. Used starter fluid for a few months until I finally took the time to look closer and see what the issue was. Put the cable back in place and never had any starting issue again....well....until the fire!
Great close-up video, thanks :) Anyone else have their carb linkage, or throttle plate bind? Mine bound up with the throttle wide open. All I can think is that it may have happened from a backfire in the carb slamming the throttle plate and linkage as I had neglected winterizing the mower (dumb), and was using starter fluid. I freed the assembly up by pulling back and forth on the governor linkage. Now the governor doesn't seem as responsive. Any ideas at all appreciated.
Bryan, do you know what thread die I need to chase threads on crankshaft? My neighbor messed up first thread and can't thread new nut on it. Would be ashamed to throw mower away because of this. Hope you can help. TY.
@@benchnwrench It was a M14 1.5 I ordered the correct tap & die. Rethreaded the crankshaft threads for flywheel nut. Had to use adjustable pliers. Did not have wrench to put die on it. Nut threads on now.
I just got a hrr216k9vkaa , all starts and works ok, seems to have a slight surging constantly, any ideas on what problem may be? Thanks for posting this, ill remember if and when the day comes. Any idea what year my model is?
If it is surging you can try cleaning the carburetor. There is a pilot and main jet. Most likely the pilot jet is clogged. The Honda carbs are usually cheap so if that doesn’t fix it I would grab a new carb.
I would try to spray some starting fluid in the carb intake. If it starts for a second then dies you will need to clean or replace the carb. You can also check for spark if it does not start.
thanks for your video, it was the most thorough and easy to follow. I like my HRR2169VKA mower and have replaced the rear drive axle and gears. The drive belt was easy and YOUtUBE along with your video makes it simple and easy., I have subscribed and gave you a thumbs up.
I have the same engine. Mine starts on the first pull but choke stays closed. If I stick a screw drive into the choke, it does open and mower runs fine. Do you think I need this thermowax thing?
So I started the mower, the choke keeps flipping and then staying open, but it dies again on its own. The choke will eventually close on its own after I go away for a few minutes, only to repeat the process of dying on its own when I try to start it again. Any ideas?
Hello, it sounds like the engine may be dying from a lack of fuel. I would take the bowl off the carburetor and clean the jets. I will be making more videos soon how to do this. Although, an OEM Honda carburetor is relatively cheap and may be worth replacing depending on the condition inside.
If your choke never opens and it is automatic, I would suspect the Thermowax. You may want to check that the carb choke arm is installed correctly too.
Great video, thanks mate. Do you know of that part can be fixed? Eg. Is it just a lubrication issue?(can it be removed lubricated and reinstalled?) Cheers
My mower starts fine when cold and the choke is closed. After running for a few minutes, the rpm's will go up and down a little. Once I shut it down, re-starting is hard or No-start at all.
Any special trick to defeat the Honda bond to get the the wax piston out?? Heat, thinner? It's wicked hard to get out. I saw the screw method but that looks a little scary.
Somewhat confused here...Just got off the phone with the repair shop and they insist that the choke valve is supposed to be open in order to start the machine. My choke valve is clearly open as pointed out at @1:00 and yet I can't for the life of me start the darn thing. I think I'll have to insist that they check the thermal wax cartridge.
For a cold start the choke needs to be closed. Once the engine is warm the choke will stay open. A cold engine will typically not start without the choke closed. You can spray some starting fluid in the carb intake, it will probably start up.
@@benchnwrench Thanks Bryan. That sounds very clear to me. I'll take that information with me. I had it serviced recently and apparently, it started for them but it won't for me. Now I have to take it back and have that fixed. Thanks for the response.
My lever had lost it's spring power and was basically useless, so the choke was stuck open. And the more I tried to start the engine unsuccessfully, gas would flood through and leak outside the air filter. I replaced the lever, spark plug and had to change oil(because the gas had leaked into it). The engine started to run very smooth at first, but as I was cutting grass it started to surge, is this related to me not installing the gaskets correctly or should the air filter be changed because gas once soaked. The air filter does not look dirty. I have a HRR2166VKA series, slightly different carburetor, but everything else is pretty much the same. Any thoughts?
It could be a problem with the gaskets causing air to leak into the intake. You may also want to clean your carburetor. There should be a main jet and pilot jet. As the engine warms up it sounds like it is running lean and surging.
@@benchnwrench I fixed the problem, I think I had one of the gaskets the wrong way and I did not screw it tight enough. Once I did it correctly it ran better than ever.
@@benchnwrench since I’m very careful about not flooding the engine, I think it’s a valve adjustment. Thank you so much for your response. It will go in for repair, and I’ll advise them of your diagnosis….
I bought a second hand one of these and it's literally the hardest thing I've ever had to push. I notice it has a guard across the front and when cutting short, little tufts of grass or soil get caught on it. Has anyone else experienced this or have a solution?
I just inherited one of these auto choke Honda mowers and use it with a bag. Mine fires up great on the first pull every time. And will run forever. The problem is, when I shut it off to dump the bag, it won't start back up. 😣It usually backfires and then no matter how much I pull, no start. I have to let it cool off completely (20-30mins) before it'll start again. I assumed it was the ignition coil as that seems to cause no-start problems after it gets hot. But then I learned the auto choke system (which is mainly this thermowax do-hickey?) could be bad. But if my mower starts fine when cold, could it be this thermowax thing or something else? Seems to me like it's choking it EVERY time I want to start it, not just when it's cold.
It could very well be the thermowax. If the choke stays closed when the engine is hot it will likely flood the engine causing a no start. Check and see if the butterfly in the carb is closed after running the engine for a bit. It will be right behind the air filter.
Hi I changed the plug thermo wax cleaned all the jets in the carb, still surging badly, I redone all carb cleaning and jets at least twenty times, then by accident I removed the metal arm which hold the springs to the carb, removed split pin removed the shaft, cleaned replaced the arm , started the mower started first time,runs perfectly, al I can think the arm was not sitting on the shaft properly, no surging at all , hope this helps other people.
Ty!
This is the first time I repair a lawn mower with automatic choke. I saw the two bolts with paint on them and thought I shouldn't really do this but it didn't work so I had nothing to lose. I also got concerned when all the gaskets dropped as they didn't stay stuck to the parts. I got all the way to the thermowax part but didn't know what it dd. Was about to give up and I hate doing that but put it back together and still wasn't working then watched this video. You did a great job with the video so easy to understand and realized what the thermowax did and then realized it was the problem. Picked up the part this morning and 10 minutes to reassemble and it works like a charm thanks to you 0:22
Thanks for sharing this video I just checked my choke and found the problem, after taking my mower to the repair shop and being told I needed a new mower I’m so glad I didn’t get sucked in because I’m gonna get the part and replace it myself 🙂
😅😅o8
Before tackling this repair, give your local Honda dealer a call with serial number and engine code as this repair may be covered by recall or special policy. This issue was fairly common and Honda was covering this at no cost to owner.
I was formally (retired warranty clerk) and we covered a number of these repairs for customer satisfaction 😉
Thanks for the info! Definitely worth a shot before buying the part.
Bro, you saved my life. I needed to do some PM and clean my carb. I took it apart and panicked when it all fell apart. Thanks to you, she's running good as new.
Excellent video & instructions. I'm qualified to make this statement because i have watched at least 25 other lawn mower repair videos. Additionally, i have watched easily over 100 repair videos on everything from gas dryer centrifugal switch to Mercedes Benz Active Body Control (ABC) hydraulic pump replacement, and everything inbetween.
Keep up the good work!
Replaced the thermowax unit, still needed a shot of starting fluid to do a cold start. Hot start was ok. Cleaned carb, no better. Choke appeared to be closed when cold. The metal post on the top of the carb is the stop for the choke pivot shaft. I ground off a little material from the metal post which allowed the choke to close another 5 or 10 percent. Now it starts with one pull.
Good tip. Thanks.
Time for me to eat some humble pie! I said I ground down shaft a few months ago to allow choke to close more. It worked then. Last week it was running too rich when warm. By slipping a piece of tube over shaft to restore its original dimension it now works ok, for now! Adjusted governor, seemed to help. I decided it’s a tricky system, every thing must be just so. I miss the old manual chokes I grew up with!
Wish me luck. It's been wicked hard getting the wax piston out. I think it is adhered with hi temp silicone.
AFTER replacing the air filter, the spark plug and the gas filter, my mower still would not start. Thank you for this video on replacing the choke actuator was found, and while getting the part out is a pain(I used a small vise grip), it did work. Thanks for saving me time and money, since my local repair shop couldn't even look at the problem for 3-4 weeks, and I was already considering a new mower.
Cheers. Pulled my old Mountfield out this morning. Choke stuck open exactly as you said. Took the two bolts out, pulled the thingy forward bolted back up. Fired in a few pulls. Will order the part now.
Top stuff.
That was so fast and easy!!! Thanks for the great video. The lawn mower started on the first pull, which hasn't happened before 👍
yes after losing a 100.00 and a new carb I did not need I see what my problem is now. Ordered the thermowax I will change it myself thanks to your video. Peace
Thank you very much for this video!!
My choke was stuck half way open making the engine sputter. Little WD40 and it loosened up. Running like a champ.
Thanks again.
Sometimes that’s all it takes to loosen up the butterfly valve. Glad to help!
Thanks for a great and much needed video. I've spent over five days researching Honda literature and countless videos on UA-cam without much success. I knew I had a choke problem but there were no videos showing this Thermal Wax device and it's purpose. Even in the Honda literature. So once again thanks and I'll subscribe to your channel and recommend to others. Happy Thanksgiving.
everything I was looking for IS IN this video. I'm ordering part now. Well Done ! : ) Thank You !
Did this fix your problem?
Brilliant. Works beautifully again. Repair shop said it was toast.
A tip for cold weather climates. Clean out the Honda bond inside the thermo wax housing and wrap the new one with some foil so the heat transfer from the engine will engage/ disengage it more accurately.
Great tip Andy, I did not apply new Honda Bond. However, that would solve any heat transfer issues.
Thanks. I hate reassembly but watching your video helped a lot. Practice makes perfect. My mower has a throttle control that the bolts have to go through right behind the air filter housing which makes it even harder. What a pain in the neck.
One of the best youtube videos I have ever seen.
Great video mate. Just picked one of these up, heard it was a common issue after a few hundred hours. Now i know how to fix it cheaply.
opened up a used GCV160 mower I picked up (only started right after I bought it). Had the autochoke thermostat removed, was missing gaskets and the card had been changed to a manual choke carb but disconnected, no control. Made some gaskets and tied a rope to the manual choke to operante it =). Runs like a champ
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it. It was exactly what I was looking for in regards to troubleshooting this lawnmower my neighbor had given me.
Excellent video. I had no idea how the choke works and if I put everything back together properly when I cleaned the carburetor. Now I know what to look for. My concern was the linkage to the choke which you covered well. Thanks!!
Thanks, i just held mine open with a screwdriver to start it and just left it running for a while. starts no problem now. thanjs very much
I was looking for Diablo 4 leveling builds and this showed up on my "Reccomended" feed. Just here t say quality content, hit like for the algorithms lol cheers bro I don't even have a mower gonna get one now and stop paying someone
So my butterfly thing keeps flipping and staying open, even though it was closed before starting. It will start and run, then die and the butterfly thing will be open. Any ideas?
you made this reassembly look easy. I ended up going to Park Rose Hardware today and buying a 70mm socket cap screw to hold the carb and auto choke in place then sliding on the plastic air cleaner holder over the head of the cap screw (grinder and drill reduced the cap screw a little to fit the hole in the plastic), then replaced one 10mm bolt first. backing out the socket head cap screw on the other side and putting the 10mm bolt in its place. It was a fiasco, but I beat the lawn mower and it started right up so I could finish mowing. Success was sweet but your method is a whole lot simpler ... didn't think of it.
Great detail. My 217HXA needs this. Shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks.
Thanks for this video, it helped me get my mower running again! Two thumbs up!
My mower isn't a Honda, but It has the new one-pull start feature that doesn't always start with one pull. I'm familiar with the older mower engines with the primer bulb, so this auto-choke thing is new to me.
this is a very well-done video for being able to see everything done and explaining it well. If you lived closer, I be at your shop! thank you, Steve
Not the problem I had BUT saw the problem I created putting the wrong carb on and forgetting how to reassemble. I have a couple of dead mowers that were running great so that being said. I’m subbing and bingeing. Thanks
I just replaced my carb and I was having a heck of a time trying hold everything together as far the gaskets, plates. etc.
Low and behold it took me two try's to assemble, but Walla
Thanks again for the video.
Glad to hear you got it back together, those gaskets can be tricky.
I have a similar problem but my HONDA GCV160 WILL NOT START WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. So I mow the backyard, turn off the mower and by the time I take the short walk to the front lawn the mower will not start. I must wait until the engine cools before it will start again - 30-40 min. Do you have a remedy for this problem?
Grab a screwdriver and manually push the chocke in closed position and hold it in therr while having someone else pull and start it.
Excellent job. You have a real talent for video and instruction.
I have a 25 year old Honda 150CC engine and the choke never worked even when it was new. I discovered that with a nearly full tank of gas, you can tilt the mower 90 degrees on its right side, count to 10 slowly on a warm day and to 20 on a cold day, and fuel dribbles into the engine which provides the perfect prime to start the engine. I'll see if it also works on the GCV160 as well.
Great tip , never seen this choke gadget before, thanks for sharing. 🇬🇧👍
Terrific guidance. just what I needed to troubleshoot my carburetor. Thanks Bryan.
Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair!
My same model cranks but runs too rich. So with what I learned from this excellent video, I will check the auto choke part and probably will see that it does not open very much and the engine soon dies out.
My air cleaner has three bolts and is a bear to put on. I had to clean the jets and even removed the flag that limits the idle circuit travel so I could clear it.. I was not aware of how to fix the auto choke, so I added a manual
Thanks for this video. Very clear and helpful info to see how all the gaskets fit. I would rather that Honda put in at least one or two studs instead of using bolts. Predator clone engines use studs on their horizontal engines and that makes it much easier to work on.
With businesses hiring just anyone, I am sure a repair shop would say buy a new mower. In fact, alot of trades do that. Tech is lazy or dimwitted, advises to go buy a new unit. Good video.
Thank You Bryan, I was given a 12 year old Honda lawnmower that wouldn’t start. It wasn’t the thermowax part. A very dirty carb.
Now my problem is it leaks gas from the air filter box. What causes this ? Thanks
Thanks for watching. You most likely have some corrosion in the carburetor causing the needle to not seat properly. This will cause the gas to overfill in the carb bowl. I would advise buying an OEM carburetor for around $30 and swapping it out. You can also check your float and make sure there is no gas inside by shaking it.
Really helpful and clearly explained - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
Worked for me don't know if it was I adjusted the piston pin, just took thew pin out and put it back in, or draining last yrs. gas that did it. sounds better than ever. and im an old lady.
Excellent video and instruction. Simple and to the point with great close ups of the parts needing working on.
Thank you. Loved how close you were to what you were doing and how informative ... SUBSCRIBED!
Good video. Thank You. Mickey Mouse design from the bolts securing the carb. ( instead of later design stud's) to the wax auto choke.
very nice ...mine is starting to take 3 to 4 pulls ...this may be the issue...now I know what to look for in the air box
Thanks for watching. If that doesn’t solve the problem you can try cleaning the carburetor. Or a new carb is fairly priced for this engine.
Having an issue where I replaced the carb, it starts and stays on but it feels like it’s not at full throttle or the engine is weak. The moment I run it over any grass it struggles to stay on. Keeping it on in the same position is no problem though.
I has this same problem. My mower parts list had the same rectangular barrel as you showed, but when I disassembled the unit, it used a circular barrel choke instead. Got the right part, and the problem was fixed. Thanks. P.S. I noticed that your carburetor did not have an idle adjust screw. Is that common with Honda mowers?
Thanks for watching. This model did not have an idle adjust screw. However, I’ve seen them on other Honda engines. I’ve noticed on this model the engine will idle lower as the governor return spring stretches.
I noticed your auto choke mechanism goes over the outside round portion of where thermostat sits. Mine does not do that and I'm having trouble with choke opening.
In this case it was stuck open, what if it is stuck to where is will barley open not giving enough air to the engine?
Great video, clear easy to follow instructions! Thank you.
Hi, thanks for video. So on a cold engine the thermowax needle should be retracted in and not pointing out? Noticed mine is pointing out even though the engine is cold, so Im guessing I need a new one? This comes after the engine suddenly started bucking and spluttering mid mow, Im guessing the choke was engaging from a faulty thermowax? Another question, the drivebelt seems a bit sloppy. Im guessing cable adjustment is necessary? Belt seems in OK condition.
That’s correct, it should be full retracted when the engine is cold and push out once it warms up. If you have the same model in the video, the self-propel cable has an adjustment on it near the bottom of the handle.
Great viode and instruction. very clear. I fixed my lawn mower.
Great video! My big problem is trying to get the bolts screwed back on the motor. I've just spent at least 3hrs trying to screw them back on! I'm frustrated!
I find them difficult too :(. I resorted to using 2 wooden dowels that were kinda snug in the threaded holes on the manifold, got everything back in place and carefully removed one dowel, installed the original bolt and repeated for the 2nd side. It's a lot easier if the mower isn't on the ground for sure, I raise the carb side by stuffing the edge of a plastic milk crate under the deck to give me a better view.
What if my black and decker mower self propelled..my choke door had a little top piece of plastic over carb that has a spring that went haywire. It's a tiny tiny spring about inch or less long. But it helps open my carb door when you move the odd shape plastic piece above it..thr spring is on a small cylinder like piece of plastic. But there is several spots it could wrap around one or all 3 of the tiny cylinders of plastic. Only spring seems broken..... I can't figure out how it was on there previously to make my choke close.... I can't crank mower. I cleaned carb checked spark. It pull cord is fine with a rumble not a crank...
Very good instructions! Thank you so much.
YESSS THANK YOU! Auto choke was stuck.
It was a very well done and helpful video.
Question:
Will this part fit all GCV 160?
I have a Husqvarna with GCV 160 and I changed everything on that Rascal and still can't crank it.
Yes, if your GCV160 engine does not have a manual choke this should be the same setup.
Nice job. Very informative! ✊
I had, actually still have but don't use, a 48" cut walk behind commercial Honda mower I used for about 20 years in my approximately 3 acre lawn until it caught fire and melted the intake manifold. Only time I ever had trouble starting it even after sitting during the winter months was when the throttle cable came lose at the carb and it wasn't actually going into choke mode. Used starter fluid for a few months until I finally took the time to look closer and see what the issue was. Put the cable back in place and never had any starting issue again....well....until the fire!
That was it thank you so much. God bless you, dear friend.
Great close-up video, thanks :)
Anyone else have their carb linkage, or throttle plate bind? Mine bound up with the throttle wide open. All I can think is that it may have happened from a backfire in the carb slamming the throttle plate and linkage as I had neglected winterizing the mower (dumb), and was using starter fluid. I freed the assembly up by pulling back and forth on the governor linkage. Now the governor doesn't seem as responsive. Any ideas at all appreciated.
Bryan, do you know what thread die I need to chase threads on crankshaft? My neighbor messed up first thread and can't thread new nut on it. Would be ashamed to throw mower away because of this. Hope you can help. TY.
I’m sorry I do not. If you still have the nut you can take it to the hardware store and find a bolt that will thread into to figure out the size.
@@benchnwrench good idea. TY
@@benchnwrench It was a M14 1.5
I ordered the correct tap & die. Rethreaded the crankshaft threads for flywheel nut. Had to use adjustable pliers. Did not have wrench to put die on it. Nut threads on now.
Fixed my problem in minutes, thanks mate 👍
how often do i Need to get two
I just got a hrr216k9vkaa , all starts and works ok, seems to have a slight surging constantly, any ideas on what problem may be? Thanks for posting this, ill remember if and when the day comes.
Any idea what year my model is?
If it is surging you can try cleaning the carburetor. There is a pilot and main jet. Most likely the pilot jet is clogged. The Honda carbs are usually cheap so if that doesn’t fix it I would grab a new carb.
Mine starts but have to reach in and help push choke mechanism so mower can run right. Second mower in a row with same symptom.
Thanks for the video, up and running again.
What if the valve closes and thermowax look allright. can oil be the problem
I would try to spray some starting fluid in the carb intake. If it starts for a second then dies you will need to clean or replace the carb. You can also check for spark if it does not start.
Great video. Straightforward and simple.
thanks for your video, it was the most thorough and easy to follow. I like my HRR2169VKA mower and have replaced the rear drive axle and gears. The drive belt was easy and YOUtUBE along with your video makes it simple and easy., I have subscribed and gave you a thumbs up.
Dam you’re running away my business bro.
I’m jp thanks for the vid helped a ton
I have the same engine. Mine starts on the first pull but choke stays closed. If I stick a screw drive into the choke, it does open and mower runs fine. Do you think I need this thermowax thing?
So I started the mower, the choke keeps flipping and then staying open, but it dies again on its own. The choke will eventually close on its own after I go away for a few minutes, only to repeat the process of dying on its own when I try to start it again. Any ideas?
Hello, it sounds like the engine may be dying from a lack of fuel. I would take the bowl off the carburetor and clean the jets. I will be making more videos soon how to do this. Although, an OEM Honda carburetor is relatively cheap and may be worth replacing depending on the condition inside.
My toro has this motor so I wonder if this is the issue?
If your mower has the GCV160 engine with auto choke it will be the same as the mower in the video.
I have a problem with my choke seemingly staying on, running rich. Could it be that valve too?
If your choke never opens and it is automatic, I would suspect the Thermowax. You may want to check that the carb choke arm is installed correctly too.
@@benchnwrench thanks. It's only had about half dozen uses, so it's never been worked on.
Great video, thanks mate.
Do you know of that part can be fixed? Eg. Is it just a lubrication issue?(can it be removed lubricated and reinstalled?)
Cheers
Unfortunately this part is not serviceable, once it starts to have issues it is best to replace it. The part is relatively cheap from Honda.
My mower starts fine when cold and the choke is closed. After running for a few minutes, the rpm's will go up and down a little. Once I shut it down, re-starting is hard or No-start at all.
I never had an issue with mine starting. Only issue I have is the dec is rotting away. It is 13 years old and never gave me an issue starting.
Any special trick to defeat the Honda bond to get the the wax piston out??
Heat, thinner?
It's wicked hard to get out.
I saw the screw method but that looks a little scary.
You may be able to apply some heat to try and loosen the thermowax from the Honda Bond. I just used pliers and eventually got a grip to pull it out.
Thank you. Worked perfect.
Thanks for the video! I need help in North Sacramento. Any info on a similar shop?
Thanks for sharing this very valuable info. Much appreciated! Definitely subbed! 👍😊
Mine has the GCV 170 and it’s never run well since new.
Thanks for the video!
Shut what if the choke is closed but still won’t start?
After I changed the brake of on my lawn mower the engine won’t start
Somewhat confused here...Just got off the phone with the repair shop and they insist that the choke valve is supposed to be open in order to start the machine. My choke valve is clearly open as pointed out at @1:00 and yet I can't for the life of me start the darn thing. I think I'll have to insist that they check the thermal wax cartridge.
For a cold start the choke needs to be closed. Once the engine is warm the choke will stay open. A cold engine will typically not start without the choke closed. You can spray some starting fluid in the carb intake, it will probably start up.
@@benchnwrench Thanks Bryan. That sounds very clear to me. I'll take that information with me. I had it serviced recently and apparently, it started for them but it won't for me. Now
I have to take it back and have that fixed. Thanks for the response.
My lever had lost it's spring power and was basically useless, so the choke was stuck open. And the more I tried to start the engine unsuccessfully, gas would flood through and leak outside the air filter. I replaced the lever, spark plug and had to change oil(because the gas had leaked into it). The engine started to run very smooth at first, but as I was cutting grass it started to surge, is this related to me not installing the gaskets correctly or should the air filter be changed because gas once soaked. The air filter does not look dirty. I have a HRR2166VKA series, slightly different carburetor, but everything else is pretty much the same.
Any thoughts?
It could be a problem with the gaskets causing air to leak into the intake. You may also want to clean your carburetor. There should be a main jet and pilot jet. As the engine warms up it sounds like it is running lean and surging.
@@benchnwrench I fixed the problem, I think I had one of the gaskets the wrong way and I did not screw it tight enough. Once I did it correctly it ran better than ever.
Difficult to pull the starter 😅cord. Seems to be excess compression. What’s causing this?
Could be a flooded engine or maybe you need a valve adjustment. This engine is OHV so it’s simple to adjust valves.
@@benchnwrench since I’m very careful about not flooding the engine, I think it’s a valve adjustment. Thank you so much for your response. It will go in for repair, and I’ll advise them of your diagnosis….
I bought a second hand one of these and it's literally the hardest thing I've ever had to push. I notice it has a guard across the front and when cutting short, little tufts of grass or soil get caught on it. Has anyone else experienced this or have a solution?
That was very helpful, thank you.
Thank you, that’s exactly what mine is doing.
Excellent video . Thanks for sharing.
I just inherited one of these auto choke Honda mowers and use it with a bag.
Mine fires up great on the first pull every time. And will run forever. The problem is, when I shut it off to dump the bag, it won't start back up. 😣It usually backfires and then no matter how much I pull, no start. I have to let it cool off completely (20-30mins) before it'll start again.
I assumed it was the ignition coil as that seems to cause no-start problems after it gets hot. But then I learned the auto choke system (which is mainly this thermowax do-hickey?) could be bad. But if my mower starts fine when cold, could it be this thermowax thing or something else? Seems to me like it's choking it EVERY time I want to start it, not just when it's cold.
It could very well be the thermowax. If the choke stays closed when the engine is hot it will likely flood the engine causing a no start. Check and see if the butterfly in the carb is closed after running the engine for a bit. It will be right behind the air filter.
@@benchnwrench I literally just replaced mine yesterday, and that was it. Works like a charm. 👍
Thank for video 👍
Anyone know where to find a Thermowax cheap they're about £30! (In UK).
Here in the U.S. they are around $13 USD on Amazon. You may want to check eBay too.
Dang so easy if I could just find that 10 mm socket!
EXCELLENT 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾