Your Glazing Game Will Improve Immediately After Watching Steve Explain These Tools And Techniques.
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2022
- Going into great detail, Steve shows you the tools and then goes into great detail about the micro movements that you almost can’t see with the naked eye. Get the facts about how to glaze for real from one of the best in the business. Your glazing game will improve immediately.
My glazing game DID improve immediately, great video
Thank you so much for the tip about the line for glazing putty and glazing points
This is the most comprehensive video on reglazing. Thank you for helping with my 200+ panes
Great tips, thanks for sharing your technique
Watched your video at least 6 times over... did my 1st of 64 panes needing rehabbing !!! Turned out "acceptable", will get better in time !!! Thank you !!!
I glazed windows in an old house we bought when I was in my late 20's. I taught myself by reading in how-to books. There was no U-tube or anything like it. I got pretty good and developed my own technique. Im finding that luckily I adapted good techniques. I am about to be glazing a bunch of new (historic reproduction) sash for an old house we've had awhile and are wanting to sell. Wish me luck! And thanks for the video! Parrish
Definitely Master Class Teaching! Thank you!!! Lots of lil tips!!
Great Video .... The Best i have ever seen yet... Thank You so much...
Great video! Very informative, it is a lost art!
Not a bad video, better than most. Not sure why you would use joint compound that essentially gets hard over time vs whiting (aka ground caulk) which promotes the skinning over of the glazing in addition to soaking up the oils. I'm curious of the effects of the 20min drywall mud long term since glazing remains flexible allowing the glass to move in change of seasons. Load better than the guy that glazed a window without points!
that electric sander trick is brilliant
great video. I appreciate the different videos you have on this subject. watching it in real time and also bit by bit. This video helped me understand your running pick better. I was not sure you where using the wood as a guide. ps. I restored 10 windows on my 1865 Greek revival and was starting to get the hang of it. Your videos are getting me to the next level. We are looking to sell and buy an old farm house and I don't feel as daunted by the window repairs necessary. cheers
Thank you for this excellent guide. Very well explained, at a great pace for a complete novice like myself 🙂
Ive just started doing an eight lite window on my garden shed (likely a cast off from a house 60 years when the shed was built). Took me best part of an hour and several retries, but finially got the putty looking clean and sharp. I wouldn't have had a hope in hell just going off the instructions from the glazing putty 😂
Only seven more to go 😅
Well THAT helped! I can do it, but now I can do it better!! Thanks!
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing
Glad you came along
Your info is great in all vids and I plan to use all of it to restore every window in my house. One constructive criticism though about something I see in numerous homr improvement videos. There is an excessive use of the word "okay?" In the same way teenagers use the word "like". Its a habitual filler word and distracts from what you are trying to say, which is a real shame considering how knowledgeable you seem and how valuable your content is to folks like me. Thanks for the vid!
Great video. With the growth of PVC windows these skill are being made redundant. It’s a shame. Glazing a few windows in my outhouse. Done one. Wish I had watched video first. My next will be better. Working with your hands is alien for many people as we are becoming a throw away society. I love repair and renovation.
Excellent as always, and kudos to camera operator!
Thank you! And thanks for coming along.
What's a good "shelf" thickness? About 3/8"? 1/4"? Great video, already learned a lot from it!
Great technique then I’ll be sure to try.
You don’t prime your windows before you glaze?
This is great. HOWEVER....audio sucks. Wish it were better and I REALLY wish there were links to the best tools. I purchased some old windows to hang in my new barn and am at the "glazing" part and it ain't for the faint of heart. LOL
I usually use boiled linseed oil or primer in the rabbit before bedding the glass to keep the wood from sucking the oil out of the putty, seems like I get better adhesion.
Thank you for the demonstration, I learned a lot just from this one video. Do you have any for removing the old glazing and that whole process ? Thanks again
For removing old putty you need a very sharp chisel . I tried to keep the bevel of the chisel against the glass. If you use the chisel the other way round it will dig into the wood and make a real mess . I have an old Ward chisel that lasted a long time . The clean shiny chisel is quite good for putting in the putty . But leave the putty for a few days to dry out before painting it .
Sharp razor blade remove it especially if it’s brittle and chipped.
I built a steam box ala John Leeke the preservationist. It softens the putty to mush so I can knife it out easily without breaking precious Old Wavy.
Best video I've seen on this subject and as far as the joint compound powder goes ,does it matter if it's a 5 , 20 , 45 or 90 grade bag , i noticed your's was 20 , im thinking it shouldn't but im just over thinking it , thanks 😊
Enthusiasm is no substitute for experience This was a truly great video - thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I have a bow window that needs to be done properly.
Human induced inconsistencies are beautiful.
Very informative! Is it necessary to apply linseed oil or primer to the raw wood sash before glazing? I have heard that advice many times.
Yes. I might have made the point before the camera began to roll that this was a bare sash and only a demonstration - that priming the rabbet with oil was critical. That advice you heard is good advice.
@@WoodWindowMakeover yup indeed .
This was very detailed thank you. I’m going to forward this to people that are asking me about technique. The magic dust always seems to mess up my work though.
There’s technique with magic dust too. I always work from outside in. Pull the brush from the outside of the sash to the inside and work the perimeter of the glazing with the long side of the brush. Perimeter first, interior second. Never exit the corners. Always enter at the corners
BOM DIA ! Pra mim é uma honra esta aqui te prestigiando, vamos sempre juntos somar e fortalecer nossos trabalhos, eu já estou por aqui.
I do a fair amount of wood window restoration and know people that do it, and I've never seen anyone bust out a sander to bed glass lol.
Doing one or two doesn’t really change much. But when you have two days worth of nine lites you pump out it speeds things up a little.
You are taking 15 minutes too long . I can do 3 9 lite sash in the time you do a 1 lite.. Been doing custom windows for 30 years..
@@michaeledlin9995It is good to be able to take pride in the work that each of us do in life. Thank you for reminding me.
What a cute little sash.
Yeah, a little baby
I still don't know whether it is best practice to paint the bed before setting the glass into the frame. here he is applying to a bare wood window
When i fix old windows on my house the glass is thinner than whats normal now. Then if i use thicker glass the points stick out to far for the angle of the putty to cover the points any advice on that?
Use A clear caulk not silicone to back bed the glass. No need for points unless the wood or glass is warped
I would NEVER use any caulk on window glass, back bedding or otherwise. It's sloppy work that makes repairing the windows in the future an absolute bear-you can't get the glass out easily and caulk residue is left everywhere. Definitely do not do this-it's a total amateur move.
Old single thickness glass might be 1/16". Newer or even old double-thick glass might be 1/8". Sure it's thicker, but not a big deal as far at the glazing points go. As the guy in the video shows, just set the points a little deeper. Alternatively, if the points are too big and you are setting them by hand, just trim them a little first. And if that failes for some reason, just extend out the putty a tiny bit to clear the point. Going 1/32" over the desired edge isn't going to be noticable.
Would you back-bed a in new sash with new glass ( new historic reproduction sash)? thanks!
Most of the time I would, but. It everyone does.
@@WoodWindowMakeoverthank you for your reply. What kind of primer would you use.. latex or oil...any specific brand? Remember new wood sash..
@@parrishn5945 oil. I like cover stain
@@WoodWindowMakeover thanks!
Sir: Israël is using is tool more Vertical no?
Yes. And I use it vertically too. One thing at a time.
@@WoodWindowMakeover :)))
Looks easy: but it’s not . Cheers
Dude! Whats up with the pink socks?
Is the sarco putty the best way to go vs other brands ? Its damned expensive .
Expense is relative, really. What makes Sarco unique is that it sets up enough to be painted in two or three days. Other brands, like DAP33 take up to a month. This is one of the many reasons professionals prefer Sarco. If you are trying to keep a schedule, bill the client and move onto the next project - Sarco is the way to go. You can glaze your sash on Tuesday, wait Wednesday and Thursday, then paint it on Friday and delivery it to a happy client, who will then give you money that will reimburse the cost of the Sarco. It’s the client that pays for the Sarco. It’s the Technician’s skill In using it that will make the money.
But maybe the technician has all the time in the world and doesn’t care about finishing…. Save a couple of dollars and go with DAP.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thank you for the quick response . Yeh , im just doing widows on my house and garage . Still though i may go ahead and go with sarco an just do a little at a time .
Even more than the fact that Sarco can be painted sooner is that it stays more flexible than the Dap33 and is infinitely easier to eventually remove and repair. The Dap33 sets up like concrete and is a bear to ever get out when the time comes, making it far more likely to break a pane during a future repair. Definitely spend the money and buy the Sarco... it's far better stuff to use now and also for the ultimate life and reparability of your historic windows for future generations. I've had to repair windows that I had done myself a couple decades earlier using Dap33 and regretted using it dearly. Spend the $ on the Sarco.
@@jamesburkhard Thanks for the tip. We completed 6 window restorations but were totally overwhelmed by window 7. We struggled mightily to remove the glazing. Like you said, it seemed to stick like concrete. Fast forward, I was just about to start reglazing with Dapp when I read your comment. Then I decided to order Sarco m online instead. Appreciate your comment.
Drywall mud sure is cheaper than whiting powder.
Still trying to find that damn knife
You could have made your own by now!
@@WoodWindowMakeover hahahaha! That’s what I am going to Do!
Oh, and polish the knife with steel wool as you are using it. I bet that is how his is so smooth.
love your videos but this one has bad audio. I cant' hear what you are saying
Can’t win them all. I confess I’m much better at window craft than videography.
If I had a dollar for every ok
Guard your glazing knife as you would your fabric cutting scissors😬
I just want to inform you that it's hard to hear you all the time, usually when your not facing the camera or maybe someone is covering the mic...?? Have a listen to the video. 🎧 This is not the only video I have not heard you when someone else is filming.
I don’t care much for making perfect videos. I tried to live a life where I tried to get everything perfect and decided that life is too short. So I opted to just upload it and let the chips fall where they may. If someone doesn’t like what I post they have plenty of others they can watch
what is the secret dust? was worse to hear :/
I also couldn't see it, couldn't hear it. It's still a secret.
how about doing it on a ladder with the window in place like everyone else does
Glazing putty is going to dry up and start to fall out within two years. You need to prime all bare wood with oil base primer to keep the oil in the putty from absorbing into the wood. A bent putty knife is a more professional tool and creates more pressure on the putty which forces it into all the cracks and crevices in the wood eliminating any air bubbles. Applying glazing putty with your non dominant hand and using your dominant hand for the putty knife only, allows you to use the ball of putty in your non dominant hand to pick up residual putty. This technique keeps your putty knife spotless and your putty in one area. For your bedding putty soften it by mixing it with a little linseed oil or a small amount of paint thinner. This makes the putty softer and you will just push down along the edge and eliminate the use of that sander that can pick up debris and scratch the glass. I've owned a glass shop for 52 years so I guess I'm considered a professional. i give you a lot of credit for your video on this lost craft and I hope my comments can help your viewers who need to do major window repairs.
Now show them how to do it all to a picture window sash, in place, working off to one side on a 2 story ladder. Then pack up, drive across town and do it again 5 or 6 times in a shift.
Microphones are cheap!!
The volume sucks.6mins was more than enough, get it sorted.
Watch a different channel
Why do Americans talk so much
Too much in details
I recently got some Sarco type M and despite kneading it thoroughly, it was much stickier than this. It wouldn't move off the glass as easily. Maybe I could add some white powder like drywall mud or masonry lime?
You could add some powder. I have not used lime. But the drywall mud I’ve been using for years and feel good about that.
Lost me at "abrasives" wayyyyy to long yatta yatta yatta
Free to you. Skip ahead.
Too much jibber jabber, just get to the point.
Nope all wrong and TOO SLOW
How do you do it?