Just wanted to say that was a very well done and clearly stated video. Really informative and straight forward. I like that you didn't assume anything and laid it all out in front of the viewer. Thanks for posting this. I was actually looking for a video that went into depth about how to select a stain or dye for your projects and the differences between them. Do you have a video about that? I haven't went through them all yet. Thanks again.
Very well done and answered the questions I have. Built my first chest of drawers for a friend. Oil based "wild cherry" stain. First time using an HVLP spray system. So, I wanted to go with a water-based finish. Thank you for a great explanation.
This is a great video. Thank you for taking the time to explain these finishing differences and varieties. While I'm fairly handy at building things, finishing is a complete mystery and this has helped break it down. Thank you
So i used polyurethane, Minwax slow at drying lots of dust between layers you can see the scratches so Now I will resand and stain table top and use lacquer with a sprayer to finish it up. I am exhausted but excited to watch you tutorial
About a year ago I purchased a quart of water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. I didn't open it until yesterday because I had some older oil based Sanding Sealer to finish (5 year old). I applied the Minwax Sanding Sealer on new Maple Stairs as per directions on the can. I noticed that as the Sanding Sealer was drying it started to darken slightly and create a blotchy finish at the overlapping brush strokes. Hopefully this can be cleaned up with some minor sanding. Today I tried to sand the imperfections but the Sanding Sealer was rubbery and could not be sanded. The sanding caused the finish to roll under the sandpaper while clogging it at the same time. It's going to take me 2 days of stripping to clean the wood and get ready for proper finishing. I will never take another chance with this product again.
Nice, clear, orderly information. I also notice the ongoing discussion among woodworkers. Some say that technically any top coat is a varnish, varnish being a category not a product. Others say different, lol
Good video but you miss one thing : if most commercial furnitures are lacquered, would a new coat of lacquer melt into the original finish? I sometimes repair guitar lacquer finish and find that to be the case.
Something I’ve learned the hard way that doesn’t ever seem to get mentioned in these reviews is that polycrylic doesn’t do well over dark colored paints because it has a milky hue to it. On the flip side, oil based polyurethane doesn’t do well over light colored paint as it leaves a yelling tone after it has dried.
Danish oil is a better finish than it got in this review. It takes a few more coats than wiping in on as was said in this video. I have used it for years on many projects and did not use wax to get a satin finish. I also used recently wipe on poly and was very pleased.One other thing about Danish oil is that as it polymerizes it also densifies the wood which is good on soft woods such as pine, fir and redwood. That factor can be utilized and then use an other finish over it if a different sheen is desired.
so if i use danish oil on my project say 2 coats then after drying a bit use polyurethane as the final protection that will work fine for furniture used on say my patio? or is there a better finish after danish oil for semi outdoor use?
I’m building a home bar top. My buddies and I broke down a few 2x6s and made a butcher block out of them. After sanding this down, I want to put down a finish to bring out the grain of the wood. Im gonna finish the top with epoxy.. what should I use to finish before I epoxy it
If you want to use epoxy I would not recommend putting anything down before it as it is known for having adhesion problems. There might be som options out there but I have not come across anything that I would recommend. Paul
Let me see if I have this right. We are applying several layers of stain to a book cabinet. Let it drive and use poly. Sanding between coats. Wipe with a clean tac cloth with mineral spirits on the clean rag. Wiping in one direction. Protect finish wood until it has had a chance to dry.
It depends on the finish and how much time between coats. It's possible that the layers of finish won't adhere to each other if you didn't sand which could, in a worse case scenario, cause the layers to separate and peel. If you want to be absolutely certain this won't happen you should sand through the second coat, back to the first coat, and reapply.
For oil based poly I will generally recoat in 8 hours under normal humidity conditions. With high humidity, I've had to wait for 24-48 hours. If it feels soft at all, wait before recoating. With water based poly, you can recoat much sooner; typically within an hour or so under normal conditions.
Hi great videos just refinished a laminate Ikea furniture book case, what top coat finish can i use, any of these? I want it to have a sheen and smooth to be able to dust it smoothly...
Very good info. I am making wood (primed pine) picture frames for an art project. I want to paint the frames with a latex satin finish then top coat with Minwax polycrylic high gloss. Any suggestions on how to avoid problems?
Hello. I would suggest using a high gloss paint rather than topping your paint with poly. There's not much (if any) of a durability advantage, and if you ever have to touch up the paint you'll be much better off if there's no poly on there. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa thanks for the info. Gloss was top of my list until I saw the price. I need 6 colors and only available in $14 qts. I may buy primary colors and mix my own custom. My artwork was easier than the damn frames...lol
Hello, Yes, you can. Laquer is great that way. You can even add a coat years later if you want to. Hope this helps, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
This in itself is interesting, however what about the itemt you are finishing. How do you finish antique furniture...oak etc, clarified beeswax? What wood & age of wood requires what finish?
Hi Simon. Most of our content here at WWGOA focuses on building and finishing new projects, and we don't have a ton of content on refinishing. The challenge with applying new finish onto an old piece of furniture is that you probably won't know what the old finish is, which could lead to compatibility problems. That said, clarified beeswax should be a safe finish to apply to any project, but keep in mind that wax will get hazy over time and you'll want to re-apply. Shellac should also be a reasonably safe finish to apply over an antique piece because it binds well to just about any finish as long as the piece is thoroughly cleaned. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
after first video poly was the way to go. after ten videos what you do? trip to store ..girl, just goo with first and gut feeling ..poly! after seeing your video..thank the good Lord I got the right stuff! a lil More effort for a longer stronger product finish that will also high shine as desired. THANK YOU FOR THE CONFIRMATION! ( SHEW! LOLOL)
I would suggest pre-catalyzed lacquer if you have spray equipment or polyurethane if you don't. Here's a great product that I use a lot for table tops: amzn.to/2n6UePg. This stuff does down nicely, flows well and is very forgiving. Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Hi Edmond. Most people would tell you to use teak oil for this. I'm not in agreement that that, because teak is one of the most naturally decay resistant woods there is. Adding teak oil doesn't help this, and in fact the finish products that are referred to as teak oil do not have any oil in them from teak wood. They are normally just a boiled linseed oil variant which is not a great exterior product. So, my first recommendation is to do nothing. Enjoy the gray patina; it won't negatively affect the longevity of the furniture. If you want to refresh the look of this furniture, I'd suggest using a teak cleaner such as Golden Care. They also make a teak sealer if you'd like to give that a try, applying it after using the teak cleaner, but you will need to revisit this process every couple years to keep it looking fresh.
Thank you for the video sir, may i ask you about the use of Walnut Oil on wood...will make the grain look better? In pipe smoking we use mainly Briar and we must take precautions from the fumes that's why we don't use polyurethane.
+Κάπνισμα Πίπας -Pipe & Tobaccos (Sid.Stavros) Walnut oil will slightly darken the wood and make the grain pattern more pronounced. I think it looks great. I have no idea about its effectiveness when used on a smoking pipe, however, or its ability to withstand heat, so I'd suggest doing some research on this specific application before using it on a smoking pipe.
Hi, I enjoyed your video, but would like your advice in sealing cookies from felled tree's. I am a pensioner living in Scotland and I have started to create rustic coffee tables which takes a while to complete, I live next to some woodland and Tree's have been felled, so I have been taken cookies from the tree/s. My problem in in sealing the wood to prevent the cookie cracking, I see what is being used in The USA, but we can't buy that product over here, and it would cost too much to have the treatment shipped to us, I say Us as I have got a few friends doing woodwork/clocks.benches etc. So any advice would be very appreciated!! Regards - Al.
Hi Alan. Pentacryl is the only product that I'm aware of for this. If you are not able to find that in your area, I'd suggest checking with a woodworking specialty supply store to see what they might have or recommend. Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Good advice George, as always! So would I be able to hit my project with an oil first to get the color i want, and then put some polyurethane over that?
Ok let me try to get this straight. So For Example I am using Pine for my project right. So would i use the Bulls eye Universal sanding Shellac to seal wood then use Danish oil then use the Polyurethane ? am i correct?
It depends on the affects that you are trying to achieve but, although I’ve never tried it, in general I would not suggest putting Danish oil over shellac. Shellac seals the wood, while Danish oil is designed to penetrate. Any one of these products would be a nice finish on pine. I don’t know what you would gain by using all three.
The most durable is oil based polyurethane, and it is great as long as you don't mind your wood changing shade to a golden hue. If you want to maintain the natural color of the wood, use a water based polyurethane. It is very durable, remains clear, but can be a bit more difficult to apply. Brush marks and bubbles can be problematic, but can be avoided or minimized by using a better quality product.
Where does a product like Rubio Mono coat fit into all of these? I see a lot of people using it on table tops but I haven’t seen anything detailed as to its durability.
Hello Conrite, That's a good question. That's a relatively new product in the market, and we haven't evaluated it yet. Thanks, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Question...concerning a unfinished maple guitar neck...i applied 3 coats of Formbys low gloss oil on it & i came out great but i.wish it was a more of a orangeish color...Can i now use a stain right over that oil ?..or do i need to sand first...Thnxxx
Hi James! I don't know what to expect if you do this. My hunch is that it will work to some extent, although I doubt that you will see much stain penetration. I would wipe it down with 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits before applying the stain. I would also strongly advise trying this procedure on scrap wood before doing it on your guitar. Hopefully this helps.
Thanks for the video glad I found it.. I just got a job in a cabinet shop and boss man said learn to paint ( Spray Gun ) and you will get a raise haha So here I am.. Thank you again
guys I need some advice regarding topcoats...I use DIY chalk paint and for some reason I cannot find a single can of polycrylic in Egypt to topcoat my furniture.. wax is also unavailable..so my question is.. can I use minwax polyurethane which is oil based on top of my chalk paint which is water based?? its the only thing I can seem to find
This should work fine, but I'd recommend testing on some scrap first. Better yet, I'd suggest putting a coat of dewaxed shellac down over the chalk point prior to putting down the poly, as this would increase my confidence that you will not have a compatibility problem.
Hello, I would recommend either the oil based poly or the water based poly. These will give you great resistance to scuffing and water exposure that are common with kitchen cabinets. Thanks, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa Thank you for the reply! Ok, so i will get a poly then. One more question... I'd like to darken up the cabets, cause i really hate that yellowish or honey tone that they have. Could i ad some dye into the Poly, to obtain a more brown tone to the finish?
I've got oak tree stump. Making a coffee table. I want to achieve a natural non shiny finish. I've treated it twice with a 3 in 1 treatment product that's a preserver too. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF QUICK DRYING TUNG OIL? WHAT ABOUT DANISH OIL? FOR A NATURAL LOOK AND NON YELLOWING
What happens exactly if I didn't sand after the 2nd coat of Poly? I applied 3 coats. Forgot to sand after #2. Should I just sand now and apply another?
Nothing at all. Adhesion is improved with sanding. You can also apply your second, third, etc coat once the previous coat has flash dried for good adhesion. Sanding between coats will give a slight leveling to the finish which helps even out the bumps and valleys caused by the woods grain. You can get an excellent finish from minwax polyurethane by applying 3 coats letting each dry progressively longer. First coat let dry 1hr, second coat dry for 3hrs, third coat dry for 24+ hours. Then lightly sand with 220 grit to knock down the high spots. On the fourth coat apply the polyurethane then let dry for 24+ hrs. The last coat fills in the sanding scratches and leaves a beautiful finish. Hope this helps.
Hi. Spar varnish is a good choice for exterior use as it has UV protection as well as good flexibility to expand and contract as wood expands due to humidity changes. Paul
Hi Paul. I would be cautious about doing this. There are a lot of different formulations that are marketed as "teak oil" and I haven't tried doing what you are describing with any of them, so I can't say whether you would have an adhesion problem. If you are going to try it, I would be sure that the teak oil is fully cured, then put down a coat of dewaxed shellac on top of that as an intermediary layer. Then put your poly on top of that. But I would try it on scrap first, and what a couple weeks to see if any flaking occurs before trying it on your actual project. Thanks, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
I painted an Ikea table with acrylic paint that I want to protect from water (drinking glasses will be put on it). Sounds like polyurethane is the way to go?
Jim, I have waxed over latex paint with good results...I just let the paint dry for a good few days first since latex stays a little "soft" for a while. Never tried other finishes over latex
I would use a water based polyurethane. It will not change the color of the piece and is quite durable. You can also choose the sheen of the finished product with choices from flat to glossy.
+giorgi lomidze lHello, and thank you for your question. We do not have any books on this topic, but you might consider taking advantage of our video training on the topic of finishing. Here is a comprehensive set of information in a DVD format that will cover all of these topics plus a whole lot more: www.wwgoa.com/product/the-complete-guide-to-advanced-wood-finishing-9-dvd-set/
what is lacquer??? what is it? what makes it different from varnish? i understand shellac is the resin from a beetle and I understand oil, but what is the difference between polyurethane and lacquer chemically???
Laquer is in many ways similar to shellac. It is a clear hard material that is dissolved in laquer thinner. When applied, the thinner caries the dissolved material into/onto the wood. When the thinner evaporates, the hard clear lacquer is left behind. If lacquer thinner were to be reapplied to the dried lacquer, it will dissolve again and become liquid again. It dries fast and can be applied in many thin coats for a high gloss finish. Varnish is a product that does not just dry, it cures, meaning it changes chemically when it dries. Oil based varnishes contain drying oil that reacts with oxygen and becomes basically plastic after a few days. Similarly, water based varnishes contain an emulsion of some resin like acrylic or polyurethane-- that means that molecules are being held away from each other by the emulsion, and when the water evaporates away, the molecules come together and fuse into a solid plastic. Varnishes, unlike lacquer and shellac, cannot be dissolved by the carrier solvent or emulsion once they are cured. In a nutshell, that means they must be removed with a stripper before refinishing the piece, where shellac and lacquer can be dissolved with thinner, and top coats for shellac and laquer can "melt" into lower coats. Hope that helps. But also, ever hear of google?
yes i have tried google. but you would be surprised at how much vagueness there is out there. This helps me understand things a little better. But I thought varnishes were solids suspended in thinner (solvents) that once dried also could be removed by thinners. Thank you very much for your thoughtful explanation. I really appreciate it.
James Roberts I'm not so familiar with wood-finishes, but in art supplies which i sold retail for 5+ yrs we had many removable varnishes by Golden or Winsor/Newton, Daler-Rowney, etc. for oil paintings. They are removable with mineral spirits.
Thanks for the great feedback Chris! We actually have great full length video on sanding, stains and top coats (1.5hr). Go to video dot wwgoa dot com and search for it. You need to be a premium member to view it.
WoodWorkers Guild Of America Question: For a Kitchen Table should I protect against yellowing and water/liquid spills with Polyacryllic or a polyurethane? Thanks
Regarding Varnish / Polyurethane.... 1. Should I use the water base Polyurethane to finish over ACRYLIC on wood? 2. Should I use the water base Polyurethane to finish over WATER COLORS on wood? Thanks.
+Romeo Martinez Water based poly is fine to use as a top coat over water based stains. I'd suggest using a water based sanding sealer directly over the stain, followed by the water based poly top coat. As far as using it as a top coat for acrylic, I "think" you should be able to do this, but I've never actually tried it. I would suggest trying an experiment with your actual two products on some scrap, and see how it looks the next day. To be safer, you might want to apply a coat of shellac directly onto the acrylic, and put the poly on top of that. Almost everything bonds well with shellac
Hello, This was not an intentional omission. The product shown that you are referring to is Deft. Thanks, Paul WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Oil got a bad rap in this vid. In a world of glossy shinny cheapness, a rubbed oil finish looks expensive these days, in my opinion. You have to apply a lot of coats for the oil to 'come up' to the surface of the wood, but it is an excellent finish that is so easy to do, it just takes some patience and time. It doesn't deserve the dismissal it got from this guy. It can be one of the most durable and beautiful finishes, and the easiest to maintain long term. Look into it more if it interests you, it's a lost art, really.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ua-cam.com/video/2eNP5QtrKO4/v-deo.html
Why not make sure that you are truly saved by Jesus Christ and practice this way. Remorsefully confess with your heart your sins to Jesus Christ who is God and tell Him that you right now are repenting of your sins and you want to be born again of the Spirit from above. Tell Jesus that you are remorsefully sorry for breaking His commandments and that you are begging for forgiveness from Him. Allow His blood from the cross to wash away your sins. After this is done with your heart successfully the Holy Spirit will come to live within you and He will rebuild you from the inside out. Look for signs that you are saved. Things like spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you're not bearing fruit then keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!!!!!
i have placed 2 coats of danish oil on my project to bring out the beauty of the wood but now i want to give it a more durable quality. this item will be on my patio where it will get morning air moisture on it but not like standing water or anything. what finish do you recommend for this scenario?
Sir you are straight into the point unlike other youtube wood work videos.
Thank you, clear and straightforward information.
Concise and to the point yet full of all the pertinent info - Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Good clear info, no unnessecary yapping. Thank you
Just wanted to say that was a very well done and clearly stated video. Really informative and straight forward. I like that you didn't assume anything and laid it all out in front of the viewer. Thanks for posting this. I was actually looking for a video that went into depth about how to select a stain or dye for your projects and the differences between them. Do you have a video about that? I haven't went through them all yet. Thanks again.
Very well done and answered the questions I have. Built my first chest of drawers for a friend. Oil based "wild cherry" stain. First time using an HVLP spray system. So, I wanted to go with a water-based finish. Thank you for a great explanation.
Thanks for the info. Great video. Made my finishing choice very easy.
This is a great video. Thank you for taking the time to explain these finishing differences and varieties. While I'm fairly handy at building things, finishing is a complete mystery and this has helped break it down. Thank you
Outstanding explanation and very simple to understand. Thank you for your time to post this video for us all to learn
Excellent presentation, thank you! I learned a lot.
this is the best video on this kind!!
SOOO helpful for us newbies. It was concise and informative! Thank you!!!
This was helpful as I am working on wooden dollhouse furniture.
THANK YOU so much for simplifying that down for me!
Very good video. Very informative.
Thank you so much. Very informative.
Thank you, for a newbie like myself it was a very useful video.
I didn't see the commentator lean one way or the other, he just gave us the reality of the facts, again well done Sir... Dilly Dilly :-)
Thank you for taking the time. The information you gave was very helpful and easy to understand.
Just the help I needed! Thanks!
So i used polyurethane, Minwax slow at drying lots of dust between layers you can see the scratches so Now I will resand and stain table top and use lacquer with a sprayer to finish it up. I am exhausted but excited to watch you tutorial
This video was incredibly helpful.
After you put a water base acylic over the wood stain.
Then I put vinyl letter on.
Do sand between 2nd 3rd coat of acylic.
Great information! You just answered many questions that I had before starting a huge project!
Excellent video! I have learned a lot from all of your videos. Going to join wwgoa to get your full length videos.
About a year ago I purchased a quart of water based Minwax Sanding Sealer. I didn't open it until yesterday because I had some older oil based
Sanding Sealer to finish (5 year old). I applied the Minwax Sanding Sealer on new Maple Stairs as per directions on the can. I noticed that as the Sanding Sealer was drying it started to darken slightly and create a blotchy finish at the overlapping brush strokes. Hopefully this can be cleaned up with some minor sanding. Today I tried to sand the imperfections but the Sanding Sealer was rubbery and could not be sanded. The sanding caused the finish to roll under the sandpaper while clogging it at the same time. It's going to take me 2 days of stripping to clean the wood and get ready for proper finishing. I will never take another chance with this product again.
Thank You!!!
Nice, clear, orderly information. I also notice the ongoing discussion among woodworkers. Some say that technically any top coat is a varnish, varnish being a category not a product. Others say different, lol
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
If I use cypress or Sapele wood for outdoor furniture do I have to put a finish on the wood?
Great video... though I believe toxicity should have been one of the pro/con parameters discussed here for each of these product categories.
Great info and clearly explained.
So helpful! Thank you!
Great info, thanks.
Great video. Thank you for the info.
excellent thanks
Good video but you miss one thing : if most commercial furnitures are lacquered, would a new coat of lacquer melt into the original finish? I sometimes repair guitar lacquer finish and find that to be the case.
THANKYOU..GOOD VIDEO
Thank you Very Much for simplifying it.
Does water-based spar urethan need sanding between coats?
Something I’ve learned the hard way that doesn’t ever seem to get mentioned in these reviews is that polycrylic doesn’t do well over dark colored paints because it has a milky hue to it. On the flip side, oil based polyurethane doesn’t do well over light colored paint as it leaves a yelling tone after it has dried.
Well crap! I just painstakingly painted a white harlequin pattern over a black table. What am I supposed to use to protect it?
Nice instructions!!!!
Danish oil is a better finish than it got in this review. It takes a few more coats than wiping in on as was said in this video. I have used it for years on many projects and did not use wax to get a satin finish. I also used recently wipe on poly and was very pleased.One other thing about Danish oil is that as it polymerizes it also densifies the wood which is good on soft woods such as pine, fir and redwood. That factor can be utilized and then use an other finish over it if a different sheen is desired.
so if i use danish oil on my project say 2 coats then after drying a bit use polyurethane as the final protection that will work fine for furniture used on say my patio? or is there a better finish after danish oil for semi outdoor use?
was the first polyurothane you mentioned oil based, i think you called it solvent based
Excellent guide and explanation. Thank you!
Would you recommend spraying the polyurethane if its an option or stick with the brush on?
spraying is a good option if you want a thin coat.
Thank you very informative!
Im excited for this videeoo
I’m building a home bar top. My buddies and I broke down a few 2x6s and made a butcher block out of them. After sanding this down, I want to put down a finish to bring out the grain of the wood. Im gonna finish the top with epoxy.. what should I use to finish before I epoxy it
If you want to use epoxy I would not recommend putting anything down before it as it is known for having adhesion problems.
There might be som options out there but I have not come across anything that I would recommend.
Paul
Let me see if I have this right. We are applying several layers of stain to a book cabinet. Let it drive and use poly. Sanding between coats. Wipe with a clean tac cloth with mineral spirits on the clean rag. Wiping in one direction. Protect finish wood until it has had a chance to dry.
Hello,
You got it! That's the right sequence.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Can you spray a lacquer over oil
Wus uppers ! Straight cut through the BS nice ! Thank you sir.....
Can you put anything on top of the oil finish?
It depends on the finish and how much time between coats. It's possible that the layers of finish won't adhere to each other if you didn't sand which could, in a worse case scenario, cause the layers to separate and peel.
If you want to be absolutely certain this won't happen you should sand through the second coat, back to the first coat, and reapply.
Just used a polyurethane on a wood slab. Whats an ideal drying time of that stain before a recoat? Great video
For oil based poly I will generally recoat in 8 hours under normal humidity conditions. With high humidity, I've had to wait for 24-48 hours. If it feels soft at all, wait before recoating.
With water based poly, you can recoat much sooner; typically within an hour or so under normal conditions.
Hi great videos just refinished a laminate Ikea furniture book case, what top coat finish can i use, any of these? I want it to have a sheen and smooth to be able to dust it smoothly...
Hello. I'd suggest a polyurethane for great durability. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Very good info. I am making wood (primed pine) picture frames for an art project. I want to paint the frames with a latex satin finish then top coat with Minwax polycrylic high gloss. Any suggestions on how to avoid problems?
Hello. I would suggest using a high gloss paint rather than topping your paint with poly. There's not much (if any) of a durability advantage, and if you ever have to touch up the paint you'll be much better off if there's no poly on there.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa thanks for the info. Gloss was top of my list until I saw the price. I need 6 colors and only available in $14 qts. I may buy primary colors and mix my own custom. My artwork was easier than the damn frames...lol
I am planing to use Lacquer. I just wonder if I can spray last coat few days later from previous coat?
Hello,
Yes, you can. Laquer is great that way. You can even add a coat years later if you want to.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Very informative video
Can you put oil over shellac or should your combine the two?
thanks!
This in itself is interesting, however what about the itemt you are finishing. How do you finish antique furniture...oak etc, clarified beeswax? What wood & age of wood requires what finish?
Hi Simon. Most of our content here at WWGOA focuses on building and finishing new projects, and we don't have a ton of content on refinishing. The challenge with applying new finish onto an old piece of furniture is that you probably won't know what the old finish is, which could lead to compatibility problems. That said, clarified beeswax should be a safe finish to apply to any project, but keep in mind that wax will get hazy over time and you'll want to re-apply. Shellac should also be a reasonably safe finish to apply over an antique piece because it binds well to just about any finish as long as the piece is thoroughly cleaned.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
after first video poly was the way to go. after ten videos what you do? trip to store ..girl, just goo with first and gut feeling ..poly! after seeing your video..thank the good Lord I got the right stuff! a lil More effort for a longer stronger product finish that will also high shine as desired. THANK YOU FOR THE CONFIRMATION! ( SHEW! LOLOL)
What would be best for a tabletop/dining table?
I would suggest pre-catalyzed lacquer if you have spray equipment or polyurethane if you don't. Here's a great product that I use a lot for table tops: amzn.to/2n6UePg. This stuff does down nicely, flows well and is very forgiving.
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Which product would be best for restoring a teak wood bench that has been outside and will be staying outdoor ?
Hi Edmond. Most people would tell you to use teak oil for this. I'm not in agreement that that, because teak is one of the most naturally decay resistant woods there is. Adding teak oil doesn't help this, and in fact the finish products that are referred to as teak oil do not have any oil in them from teak wood. They are normally just a boiled linseed oil variant which is not a great exterior product.
So, my first recommendation is to do nothing. Enjoy the gray patina; it won't negatively affect the longevity of the furniture. If you want to refresh the look of this furniture, I'd suggest using a teak cleaner such as Golden Care. They also make a teak sealer if you'd like to give that a try, applying it after using the teak cleaner, but you will need to revisit this process every couple years to keep it looking fresh.
Thank you for the video sir, may i ask you about the use of Walnut Oil on wood...will make the grain look better? In pipe smoking we use mainly Briar and we must take precautions from the fumes that's why we don't use polyurethane.
+Κάπνισμα Πίπας -Pipe & Tobaccos (Sid.Stavros) Walnut oil will slightly darken the wood and make the grain pattern more pronounced. I think it looks great. I have no idea about its effectiveness when used on a smoking pipe, however, or its ability to withstand heat, so I'd suggest doing some research on this specific application before using it on a smoking pipe.
Thank you sir,much obliged.
Hi, I enjoyed your video, but would like your advice in sealing cookies from felled tree's.
I am a pensioner living in Scotland and I have started to create rustic coffee tables which takes a while to complete, I live next to some woodland and Tree's have been felled, so I have been taken cookies from the tree/s. My problem in in sealing the wood to prevent the cookie cracking, I see what is being used in The USA, but we can't buy that product over here, and it would cost too much to have the treatment shipped to us, I say Us as I have got a few friends doing woodwork/clocks.benches etc. So any advice would be very appreciated!!
Regards - Al.
Hi Alan. Pentacryl is the only product that I'm aware of for this. If you are not able to find that in your area, I'd suggest checking with a woodworking specialty supply store to see what they might have or recommend.
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
@@Wwgoa Cheers mate!
Where would you say Rubio Monocoat would rate in this listing with regard to durability?
Great question! I have submitted your question to our experts. Please allow 1-2 business days for their response. We will post it here. Thanks!
I haven't had a chance to use that product so I'm not in a position to compare it.
Paul
Good advice George, as always! So would I be able to hit my project with an oil first to get the color i want, and then put some polyurethane over that?
Ok let me try to get this straight. So For Example I am using Pine for my project right. So would i use the Bulls eye Universal sanding Shellac to seal wood then use Danish oil then use the Polyurethane ? am i correct?
It depends on the affects that you are trying to achieve but, although I’ve never tried it, in general I would not suggest putting Danish oil over shellac. Shellac seals the wood, while Danish oil is designed to penetrate. Any one of these products would be a nice finish on pine. I don’t know what you would gain by using all three.
Okay what would you suggest for a durable natural look? this be 1st time doing finish work
John Gee video cut off
The most durable is oil based polyurethane, and it is great as long as you don't mind your wood changing shade to a golden hue.
If you want to maintain the natural color of the wood, use a water based polyurethane. It is very durable, remains clear, but can be a bit more difficult to apply. Brush marks and bubbles can be problematic, but can be avoided or minimized by using a better quality product.
Where does a product like Rubio Mono coat fit into all of these? I see a lot of people using it on table tops but I haven’t seen anything detailed as to its durability.
Hello Conrite,
That's a good question. That's a relatively new product in the market, and we haven't evaluated it yet.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Question...concerning a unfinished maple guitar neck...i applied 3 coats of Formbys low gloss oil on it & i came out great but i.wish it was a more of a orangeish color...Can i now use a stain right over that oil ?..or do i need to sand first...Thnxxx
Hi James! I don't know what to expect if you do this. My hunch is that it will work to some extent, although I doubt that you will see much stain penetration. I would wipe it down with 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits before applying the stain. I would also strongly advise trying this procedure on scrap wood before doing it on your guitar. Hopefully this helps.
WoodWorkers Guild Of America ..Thank you...i will try it on scrap wood 1st...appreciate you getting back to me....jim
Thanks for the video glad I found it..
I just got a job in a cabinet shop and boss man said learn to paint ( Spray Gun ) and you will get a raise haha So here I am..
Thank you again
guys I need some advice regarding topcoats...I use DIY chalk paint and for some reason I cannot find a single can of polycrylic in Egypt to topcoat my furniture.. wax is also unavailable..so my question is.. can I use minwax polyurethane which is oil based on top of my chalk paint which is water based?? its the only thing I can seem to find
This should work fine, but I'd recommend testing on some scrap first. Better yet, I'd suggest putting a coat of dewaxed shellac down over the chalk point prior to putting down the poly, as this would increase my confidence that you will not have a compatibility problem.
What is the difference between Spar Urethane and Poly urethane ?
Which of these do you recommend for refinishing oak kitchen cabinets? I like to spray the finish aswell
Hello,
I would recommend either the oil based poly or the water based poly. These will give you great resistance to scuffing and water exposure that are common with kitchen cabinets.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa
Thank you for the reply!
Ok, so i will get a poly then.
One more question...
I'd like to darken up the cabets, cause i really hate that yellowish or honey tone that they have. Could i ad some dye into the Poly, to obtain a more brown tone to the finish?
I've got oak tree stump. Making a coffee table. I want to achieve a natural non shiny finish. I've treated it twice with a 3 in 1 treatment product that's a preserver too. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF QUICK DRYING TUNG OIL? WHAT ABOUT DANISH OIL? FOR A NATURAL LOOK AND NON YELLOWING
Finally Somebody who KNOWS what the hell their talking about... Well Done SIR!!! :-)
😂😂 For real
Just try to find an old fashion varnish. Yes any oil base will yellow in time
thank you!!!!!
What happens exactly if I didn't sand after the 2nd coat of Poly? I applied 3 coats. Forgot to sand after #2. Should I just sand now and apply another?
Nothing at all. Adhesion is improved with sanding. You can also apply your second, third, etc coat once the previous coat has flash dried for good adhesion. Sanding between coats will give a slight leveling to the finish which helps even out the bumps and valleys caused by the woods grain. You can get an excellent finish from minwax polyurethane by applying 3 coats letting each dry progressively longer. First coat let dry 1hr, second coat dry for 3hrs, third coat dry for 24+ hours. Then lightly sand with 220 grit to knock down the high spots. On the fourth coat apply the polyurethane then let dry for 24+ hrs. The last coat fills in the sanding scratches and leaves a beautiful finish. Hope this helps.
but which one does the best for outside, as far as UV goes
Hi. Spar varnish is a good choice for exterior use as it has UV protection as well as good flexibility to expand and contract as wood expands due to humidity changes. Paul
You bet! Glad you are enjoying our videos. Check out video dot wwgoa dot com for hundreds more! Happy woodworking!
Can I put a polyurethane over the top of teak oil?
Hi Paul.
I would be cautious about doing this. There are a lot of different formulations that are marketed as "teak oil" and I haven't tried doing what you are describing with any of them, so I can't say whether you
would have an adhesion problem. If you are going to try it, I would be sure that the teak oil is fully cured, then put down a coat of dewaxed shellac on top of that as an intermediary layer. Then put your poly on
top of that. But I would try it on scrap first, and what a couple weeks to see if any flaking occurs before trying it on your actual project.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
I painted an Ikea table with acrylic paint that I want to protect from water (drinking glasses will be put on it). Sounds like polyurethane is the way to go?
Polyacrylics will not yellow over time the way polyurathane will.
which is best for latex painted surfaces?
Jim, I have waxed over latex paint with good results...I just let the paint dry for a good few days first since latex stays a little "soft" for a while. Never tried other finishes over latex
I would use a water based polyurethane. It will not change the color of the piece and is quite durable. You can also choose the sheen of the finished product with choices from flat to glossy.
Slow cure means a harder finish
How about epoxy?
can you recommend me some books in which i can read everything about varnishes lacquers oils resins and so on, for woodworking. thank you
+giorgi lomidze lHello, and thank you for your question. We do not have any books on this topic, but you might consider taking advantage of our video training on the topic of finishing. Here is a comprehensive set of information in a DVD format that will cover all of these topics plus a whole lot more:
www.wwgoa.com/product/the-complete-guide-to-advanced-wood-finishing-9-dvd-set/
thank you.
giorgi lomidze I'd highly recommend one of the books by Bob Flexnor. super comprehensive take on everything aspect of finishing and my go-to reference
thank you
“Understanding Wood Finishing” by Bob Flexner is a great book. It’s so detail and explain clearly: Oil, shellac, lacquer,Pu...
what is lacquer??? what is it? what makes it different from varnish? i understand shellac is the resin from a beetle and I understand oil, but what is the difference between polyurethane and lacquer chemically???
Laquer is in many ways similar to shellac. It is a clear hard material that is dissolved in laquer thinner. When applied, the thinner caries the dissolved material into/onto the wood. When the thinner evaporates, the hard clear lacquer is left behind. If lacquer thinner were to be reapplied to the dried lacquer, it will dissolve again and become liquid again. It dries fast and can be applied in many thin coats for a high gloss finish. Varnish is a product that does not just dry, it cures, meaning it changes chemically when it dries. Oil based varnishes contain drying oil that reacts with oxygen and becomes basically plastic after a few days. Similarly, water based varnishes contain an emulsion of some resin like acrylic or polyurethane-- that means that molecules are being held away from each other by the emulsion, and when the water evaporates away, the molecules come together and fuse into a solid plastic. Varnishes, unlike lacquer and shellac, cannot be dissolved by the carrier solvent or emulsion once they are cured. In a nutshell, that means they must be removed with a stripper before refinishing the piece, where shellac and lacquer can be dissolved with thinner, and top coats for shellac and laquer can "melt" into lower coats. Hope that helps. But also, ever hear of google?
yes i have tried google. but you would be surprised at how much vagueness there is out there. This helps me understand things a little better. But I thought varnishes were solids suspended in thinner (solvents) that once dried also could be removed by thinners. Thank you very much for your thoughtful explanation. I really appreciate it.
James Roberts I'm not so familiar with wood-finishes, but in art supplies which i sold retail for 5+ yrs we had many removable varnishes by Golden or Winsor/Newton, Daler-Rowney, etc. for oil paintings. They are removable with mineral spirits.
shaft9000 you can do
Excellent, excellent explanation. I'm a beginner and like details. Thanks.
Thanks for the great feedback Chris! We actually have great full length video on sanding, stains and top coats (1.5hr). Go to video dot wwgoa dot com and search for it. You need to be a premium member to view it.
WoodWorkers Guild Of America Question: For a Kitchen Table should I protect against yellowing and water/liquid spills with Polyacryllic or a polyurethane? Thanks
Regarding Varnish / Polyurethane....
1. Should I use the water base Polyurethane to finish over ACRYLIC on wood?
2. Should I use the water base Polyurethane to finish over WATER COLORS on wood?
Thanks.
+Romeo Martinez Water based poly is fine to use as a top coat over water based stains. I'd suggest using a water based sanding sealer directly over the stain, followed by the water based poly top coat. As far as using it as a top coat for acrylic, I "think" you should be able to do this, but I've never actually tried it. I would suggest trying an experiment with your actual two products on some scrap, and see how it looks the next day. To be safer, you might want to apply a coat of shellac directly onto the acrylic, and put the poly on top of that. Almost everything bonds well with shellac
At 3:48 he said "Shellac"... I guess he meant Lacquer...
I found it ODD that you show the brands of every EXCEPT the Lacquer in the can. Why?
Hello,
This was not an intentional omission. The product shown that you are referring to is Deft.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Oil got a bad rap in this vid. In a world of glossy shinny cheapness, a rubbed oil finish looks expensive these days, in my opinion. You have to apply a lot of coats for the oil to 'come up' to the surface of the wood, but it is an excellent finish that is so easy to do, it just takes some patience and time. It doesn't deserve the dismissal it got from this guy. It can be one of the most durable and beautiful finishes, and the easiest to maintain long term. Look into it more if it interests you, it's a lost art, really.
hi, i uwed oil finish for my dining table, and already applied 3 coats. How more i have to apply and do i need to use a vanish over ? Thank you!
Varnish, made a mistake, sorry.
James Roberts
👍👍👍
James Roberts how can I know what to apply to what? I am just starting to mess with all this
Fine presentation but just more confusion.
Earl Thomas flip
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ua-cam.com/video/2eNP5QtrKO4/v-deo.html
Why not make sure that you are truly saved by Jesus Christ and practice this way. Remorsefully confess with your heart your sins to Jesus Christ who is God and tell Him that you right now are repenting of your sins and you want to be born again of the Spirit from above. Tell Jesus that you are remorsefully sorry for breaking His commandments and that you are begging for forgiveness from Him. Allow His blood from the cross to wash away your sins. After this is done with your heart successfully the Holy Spirit will come to live within you and He will rebuild you from the inside out.
Look for signs that you are saved. Things like spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you're not bearing fruit then keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!!!!!
Spar Urethane outdoors.
Poly indoors.
i have placed 2 coats of danish oil on my project to bring out the beauty of the wood but now i want to give it a more durable quality. this item will be on my patio where it will get morning air moisture on it but not like standing water or anything. what finish do you recommend for this scenario?
... I hated highschool..