I'm kinda the neighborhood repair guy where I live. I've worked on a couple of these power cutters before and was successful. Mostly though it's mowers, snowblowers and the odd chainsaw or leafblower. At any rate it's enjoyable work and I make a little cash on the side. Most of the time I have to pick equipment up from a lot of my customers but I charge them a fair rate for fuel and travel time. I watch a lot of repair videos and I'm really glad to have found your channel Scott. I like your setup and your no nonsense approach as well as the comedy you throw in from time to time! Good stuff!
@@TheGreasyShopRag can I get your thoughts on using the cheap cylinder and piston kits you can get on eBay and Amazon. Are the good and last, or are you better shelling out and buying the husqvarna genuine one?
Your video came in handy. I've got a K770 which is basically the same set up. This is a demo saw and it doesn't want to crank either. It popped over one time and that was it. It's got nearly 125 PSI, so that's not the issue. I've pulled the carb off and the boot also looks fine. I don't believe that the diaphragm is soft enough to move with the needle. I just finished a chain saw with the same issue. Fired right up. Thanks for the class once again.
A most excellent video! Thank you for using a stationary camera. I own a k750. Becoming hard to start or to stay running. Your video was helpful. Thank you!
Remove the kill wire from the coil and try again. If you still don't have spark then check for a good ground beteween the coil laminations and cylinder. Other things to check are if the magnets on the flywheel are strong and the air gap between coil and flywheel. What method are you using to check for spark...because I assume thats what you meant by "no fire".
There is minimal scoring on the cylinder, and the piston. The top of the piston had scoring damage above the top ring. The bottom ring was stuck in place. I had to break the ring in 3-pieces to get it out. Should I replace the piston and rings, or just the rings?
@@TheGreasyShopRag What if you wanted it done right? $600+ for an OEM cylinder is too much. I will have a new complete saw price, just to do this repair. It will be scrap I'm seeing The Duke's Nikasil lined cylinders and pistons for about $130. Are there aftermarket parts that are good or is OEM the way to go?
Lots. Way more than I want to type out. I would say if you follow the basic diagnosis procedures I present in these videos you should be able to rule out a lot of possibilities.
@@FunnyFiveADay Old fuel, water in fuel, blocked fuel filter, hole in fuel line, blocked screen in carb, torn intake boot, bad crank seal, air leak at cylinder base gasket, scored cylinder, ignition problem, blocked spark arrestor screen, heavy load on engine or maybe it just needs a carb adjustment. It could be any one of these.
I have a K770 I was cutting concrete and it shut off with a big blast sound, since then it won’t start and when I pull trying to start it it’s very soft, do you have an idea what can be the issue? Where are you located? I would appreciate any suggestions thank you
I have one I’m working on now. Had scored piston and cylinder. Replaced those. Has 125 psi of compression. Fuel line holds pressure. Replaced fuel filter, intake boots, fuel lines, ignition coil, and carb with amazon aftermarket units. Will barely start with starter fluid and dies immediately. Put another cheap carb on it thinking it is fuel related. Same thing. You think bad carbs cause they are so cheap? Has good compression and spark
@@TheGreasyShopRag I do not. It’s my fathers saw. Top end was rebuilt last year by a shop and ran for only an hour or so. Piston and cylinder were scored again in such little use. Any way I can check bottom end? I have the workshop manual and it has you pressure it to 7 psi and see if it drops but I don’t have the special tool to mount to the exhaust port
@@domrosanelli Pressure/vaccuum testing the crankcase is important at this point and I wouldn't move forward with anything else until that task is complete.
@@domrosanelli Yes. If the engine is sucking air that hasn't passed through the carb and mixed with fuel then the engine is running lean and can score the cylinder.
What tool did you use to test for spark? What tool did you pull out the spark plug with? And what tool did you pressurize it with? They all look so handy, I’m trying to get almost the identical saw running, and am having no luck.
Do you use stone or felt type of filter? I’ve been told that water plugs them up. Dad’s chainsaw running erratic. Submersed filter in fluid and gently blew thru. Looked great but gas only going through top and bottom, not the body. Take care
I use original equipment husky filters. They are not felt or stone, but look like stone. I've never tried blowing air back through one so I'm not sure if what you're seeing is normal.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks I will check those filters out. Gently blowing through is for my own knowledge. Normally you’ll see the entire filter foam. On my dad’s only around the top and bottom foamed. Flow was restricted. The rest was plugged. Plus your time is different than mine. Thanks again.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Friend, I have a 335xpt saw, after pouring the fuel to full, gasoline spills around the clutch about 50ml what can it be? How to fix it ?
@@Sensei948 I'm pretty sure the fuel tank vent is on that side. It would face down when filling the tank. Dry the saw, tip it to that side for a moment and see if fuel spills. The vent is replaceable.
Consider for a moment WHY you shouldn't rev a cold engine. It has nothing to do with the act of revving it up. Its about building heat in certain parts of the engine faster than other parts. A hot expanding piston can seize in the bore. Do you think I created much heat at all in that engine by running it for a few seconds (and not very fast)? Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
If its cost effective to repair a piece of equipment then thats what we do. If I feel repairing something is a waste of money then I talk to the customer. In the end, the goal is to make the customer happy and want to return to do more business with us.
Yeah, if you run a concrete or masonry company these things last about a year and then they're done. You'll spend more chasing repairs than you will just buying a brand new one. These things are a joke.
Thanks for sharing. Not only super informative, but great format and humour.
Thanks for watching!
I'm kinda the neighborhood repair guy where I live. I've worked on a couple of these power cutters before and was successful. Mostly though it's mowers, snowblowers and the odd chainsaw or leafblower. At any rate it's enjoyable work and I make a little cash on the side. Most of the time I have to pick equipment up from a lot of my customers but I charge them a fair rate for fuel and travel time. I watch a lot of repair videos and I'm really glad to have found your channel Scott. I like your setup and your no nonsense approach as well as the comedy you throw in from time to time! Good stuff!
Thanks for tuning, I'm glad you're able to pick up some worthwhile info. Funny, I don't remember ever fixing a neighbors piece of equipment.
@@TheGreasyShopRag can I get your thoughts on using the cheap cylinder and piston kits you can get on eBay and Amazon. Are the good and last, or are you better shelling out and buying the husqvarna genuine one?
@@justinf1343 Its my opinion that you get what you pay for. I almost always use only OEM parts because I know they will fit without issue.
I like your simplicity, repeatable which means less chance of missing things. Great fake out with the gas 😄
Your video came in handy. I've got a K770 which is basically the same set up. This is a demo saw and it doesn't want to crank either. It popped over one time and that was it. It's got nearly 125 PSI, so that's not the issue. I've pulled the carb off and the boot also looks fine. I don't believe that the diaphragm is soft enough to move with the needle. I just finished a chain saw with the same issue. Fired right up. Thanks for the class once again.
Thanks for watching!
A most excellent video! Thank you for using a stationary camera. I own a k750. Becoming hard to start or to stay running. Your video was helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Hey man , thank you for your time and patience. Cant get any fire on my saw
Remove the kill wire from the coil and try again. If you still don't have spark then check for a good ground beteween the coil laminations and cylinder. Other things to check are if the magnets on the flywheel are strong and the air gap between coil and flywheel. What method are you using to check for spark...because I assume thats what you meant by "no fire".
Grate video! How much did you charge for this service ?
@@Trap..house. I have an agreement with my employer not to discuss labor costs. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate your videos!
I have one of these in.
Compression is at 90psi.
How low it too low on Compression?
Tjanks!
@@kurtpolak2670 I usually use 100 psi as a guide. Did you inspect the cylinder for scoring or heavy wear?
There is minimal scoring on the cylinder, and the piston.
The top of the piston had scoring damage above the top ring.
The bottom ring was stuck in place. I had to break the ring in 3-pieces to get it out.
Should I replace the piston and rings, or just the rings?
@@kurtpolak2670 If I were on a budget and the piston checked out ok then just rings would be fine.
@@TheGreasyShopRag
What if you wanted it done right?
$600+ for an OEM cylinder is too much. I will have a new complete saw price, just to do this repair. It will be scrap
I'm seeing The Duke's Nikasil lined cylinders and pistons for about $130.
Are there aftermarket parts that are good or is OEM the way to go?
@@kurtpolak2670 I'm not the person to ask because I work at a dealership and we only useoem parts. I have nothing to compare to.
I have a Husqvarna 555 RXT Brush cutter bogging down any ideas?
Lots. Way more than I want to type out. I would say if you follow the basic diagnosis procedures I present in these videos you should be able to rule out a lot of possibilities.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I have done everything I can think off surly there is a common fix no?
@@FunnyFiveADay Old fuel, water in fuel, blocked fuel filter, hole in fuel line, blocked screen in carb, torn intake boot, bad crank seal, air leak at cylinder base gasket, scored cylinder, ignition problem, blocked spark arrestor screen, heavy load on engine or maybe it just needs a carb adjustment. It could be any one of these.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I will stick it in for a service 🤣🤣🤣 thanks mate
Thanks for the advice bud you got a new subscriber 👍
I have a K770 I was cutting concrete and it shut off with a big blast sound, since then it won’t start and when I pull trying to start it it’s very soft, do you have an idea what can be the issue? Where are you located? I would appreciate any suggestions thank you
@angelmorocho3051 That doesn't sound good. My gut instinct is that it's reached but then again your idea of a "big blast" may be different than mine.
@ thank you
Great video man. Very informative.
Thanks for watching!
I have one I’m working on now. Had scored piston and cylinder. Replaced those. Has 125 psi of compression. Fuel line holds pressure. Replaced fuel filter, intake boots, fuel lines, ignition coil, and carb with amazon aftermarket units. Will barely start with starter fluid and dies immediately. Put another cheap carb on it thinking it is fuel related. Same thing. You think bad carbs cause they are so cheap? Has good compression and spark
I wonder if you have a bad crank seal. Do you know why the piston scored originally?
@@TheGreasyShopRag I do not. It’s my fathers saw. Top end was rebuilt last year by a shop and ran for only an hour or so. Piston and cylinder were scored again in such little use. Any way I can check bottom end? I have the workshop manual and it has you pressure it to 7 psi and see if it drops but I don’t have the special tool to mount to the exhaust port
@@domrosanelli Pressure/vaccuum testing the crankcase is important at this point and I wouldn't move forward with anything else until that task is complete.
@@TheGreasyShopRag would crankcase leakage cause a scored piston and cylinder
@@domrosanelli Yes. If the engine is sucking air that hasn't passed through the carb and mixed with fuel then the engine is running lean and can score the cylinder.
What tool did you use to test for spark? What tool did you pull out the spark plug with? And what tool did you pressurize it with? They all look so handy, I’m trying to get almost the identical saw running, and am having no luck.
Spark Chekr by Trillium. Thexton spark plug remover. Mity Vav MV8500 pressure/vaccuum tester. Thanks for watching.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Is that the same pump as for a brake bleeder kit?
@@Smalltechguy Some brake bleeders are vaccuum only and may not have a gauge.
I have a Husqvarna k970 concrete saw and it is flooding with gas in the boot. Any idea why?
Don't know what you already checked so...No spark. Sheared flywheel key. Kill switch wire circuit grounding on case. Low compression. Stiff metering diaphragm. Bad needle in carb. Poor quality fuel.
Very informative, thank you for sharing!
You have yourself a new subscriber!
Thanks for the sub!
Do you use stone or felt type of filter? I’ve been told that water plugs them up. Dad’s chainsaw running erratic. Submersed filter in fluid and gently blew thru. Looked great but gas only going through top and bottom, not the body. Take care
I use original equipment husky filters. They are not felt or stone, but look like stone. I've never tried blowing air back through one so I'm not sure if what you're seeing is normal.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks I will check those filters out. Gently blowing through is for my own knowledge. Normally you’ll see the entire filter foam. On my dad’s only around the top and bottom foamed. Flow was restricted. The rest was plugged. Plus your time is different than mine. Thanks again.
I'd imagine those saws live a tough life
Yes, and quite often a short life.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Friend, I have a 335xpt saw, after pouring the fuel to full, gasoline spills around the clutch about 50ml what can it be? How to fix it ?
@@Sensei948 I'm pretty sure the fuel tank vent is on that side. It would face down when filling the tank. Dry the saw, tip it to that side for a moment and see if fuel spills. The vent is replaceable.
Exactly there in the tank are 2 black fuel hoses and a second white vent ... How to replace the vent in 335xpt?@@TheGreasyShopRag
Don't rev it cold. Throttle lock engaged. Pull cord. Blip throttle lock to idle.
Consider for a moment WHY you shouldn't rev a cold engine. It has nothing to do with the act of revving it up. Its about building heat in certain parts of the engine faster than other parts. A hot expanding piston can seize in the bore. Do you think I created much heat at all in that engine by running it for a few seconds (and not very fast)? Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
I Have Encountered The Torn K760 Boot More Than a Few Times 😩😩😩 Seems too Happen a Lot
I noticed that too. Must be crappy rubber.
Your not going to upsell until the saws not worth it ?
If its cost effective to repair a piece of equipment then thats what we do. If I feel repairing something is a waste of money then I talk to the customer. In the end, the goal is to make the customer happy and want to return to do more business with us.
Mine will start but will not accelerate
Yep, lots of possibilities on that one.
Yeah, if you run a concrete or masonry company these things last about a year and then they're done. You'll spend more chasing repairs than you will just buying a brand new one. These things are a joke.
They run in the dustiest environment possible. Its surprising they last as long as they do.