Thanks to all for the suggestions, we'll be working on figuring out why the pan isn't working as it should, we think it has to do with over baffling. We also have it overfilled during the track outing and it didn't help but this is how we do things, test and then fix!
Bolt some plexiglass to the pan filled with cooking oil to simulate hot engine oil, a gopro looking into the plexi and replicate the g-forces and study the footage. I don't know how you'll replicate g forces... Minibike spinning a merry go round at a park? Ride the tea cups at Disney? Spin in circles holding it until you barf? Small scale astronaut style centrifuge?
Baffles are not enough, you need baffles to control and trapdoors to block flow towards the timing chain area. During gforces towards the timing chain area, almost all of the flow must be blocked, during forces away from them they must be allowed with hinged doors and a block off plate. I have had success on my car which pulls around 1.2g's with the original windage tray to prevent frothing, a baffle plate to slow the flow around, and the trap doors to block the oil from all running into the timing area. An accusump type reservoir might help as well in the event of short term failure of oil control systems.
Here is an image of my setup to give you an idea of what should be suitable. i.imgur.com/15ro6qS.jpg All of these plates must almost touch all edges of the pan.
Baffle and trapdoor. wont need dry sump. They are probably about to do a video about how to rebuild a k20 with spun bearings, because they did a ton of damage during this video. Also that fuel cutoff needs to be raised in Kpro, the k24a2 is good for 8300 at least.
I don't know if any one still makes them but a swing pick up could be a solution as well. (Swing pick up is free to move around the oil pan. The car turns left, oil goes right, the centrifugal forces excreted on the oil pick up drives it right as well, allowing the oil pick up to stay with the oil.)
They intentionally did not go with a dry sump system because buying just the dry sump kit would cost way more than the whole motor itself. It's probably cheaper for them to blow a motor than it is to go dry sump.
@@vincevegacustoms754 yes they did. I'm sure you spend more than 15 minutes every couple days doing something less worthwhile than watching these videos, maybe it's time to evaluate your priorities
Yes adding oil above the level of the factory windage tray will cause large amounts of frothing which will cause air bubbles to be pushed through the oil passages which is almost as bad as running totally dry.
Great work on this series guys. As someone who has tracked hondas for years I'll say that the oil pressure dipping to 5-10 psi is a little worrying. I'd bet at small tracks like your home test facility it will probably be fine but going somewhere like Buttonwillow with a 100mph high G load sustained corner you'll be in a world of hurt. I run the extra capacity Moroso pan on my K20A engine on Hoosiers and I don't have issues but I assume you dont have the room for that. Maybe work with Kmiata on a new baffle design. Cheers.
Its so satisfying to get your project out after alot of effort, looks super fun to drive. Good luck sorting the niggles! This channel is climbing up to become one of my absolute favorites, great work guys! Btw, try having the lap belt lower against the hip bone, not the soft parts :)
Boostedboiz had a similar oil pressure issue and the guy they got the oil pan from told them they needed to put more oil than the engine regular carries
ANY TIME YOU SWAP A K AND PUT IT SIDEWAYS YOU GOTTA MAKE A CUSTOM BAFFLE SYSTEM BECAUSE OF THE ANGLE OF THE MOTOR AND THE WAY THE GFORCES PULL THE OIL AROUND THE PAN REACH OUT TO THE BOOSTEDBOIS THEY HAD THIS ISSUE AND THEY FIXXED IT
Happy for you guys. When I had my ep3 I always put an extra full quart in on track days. I think it was purely anecdotal but we always said the k engines take forever for the oil to get out of the head and back go the pan. It's not that there is a windage issue, rather a return issue. Not sure if that's the truth, but it's the gospel we followed and never had an issue. Amazing car guys. Pure jealousy on my end. It's the perfect triangle car (speed, handling, looks)
Local guy with a k-swapped miata also had the motor fail on oil starvation. You should find a pan that's made for north-south install the original pan shape is ng
9:10 the roll bar is really just to keep the back seats from hitting you in the head haha As for the low oil pressure just don't take the car to an oval track 👍
I had an sr20 I had to do that with. Go around a corner to hard and the oil pressure would drop ridiculously. Half a quart later and your back to normal
I have heard that Ballade Sports in SoCal were having oil issues when swapping a k-motor into a S2000. You might want to reach out to them or research this phenomenon.
Another great video from Speed Academy! Good stuff boys! Is that the Deboss truck i see in the background? Quattro Debocho Audi review in the works? That would be sick.
The brakes are touchy mainly because the stock S-Chassis vacuum booster provides too much assist and kills modulation and feel. I HIGHLY recommend finding a B13 Sentra non-abs vacuum booster and installing it. Also, I'd highly recommend switching to a 27mm (17/16") Z32 BMC if you haven't already. Your brake setup is also very heavily front biased so it's probably very easy to lock the fronts. I endurance road race an S14 with a VQ35DE in the American Endurance Racing (AER) series here in the states and I've gone through the gamut with brake setups. I've made my own big brake kits for the front and the rear of the car using components that have far cheaper running costs and perform better than anything OEM Brembo from that era. If you're up for it, I would love to send you guys front and rear kits to install on that beauty and test, in conjunction with the recommendations I noted above.
You haven't watched our previous series of S14 videos :) This car is equipped with the B13 booster and Z32 BMC albeit a 1inch one if Im not mistaken. I have less aggressive pads that I think should help with the lock up but more than willing to hear what suggestions you have. Shoot me an email at peter@speed.academy
Ha! Guilty :D Sorry, a friend of mine forwarded this specific video and I haven't had a chance to go through them all. Pads will help, but you're still heavily front biased from purely sizing. I will email you. Thanks for the reply!
I think you might be right about over baffling. With the motor sitting on the slight angle, all the oil get pushed up the side of the block, and the trap door is not going to want to open to let it get down to the pickup. I would take the pan off, have a few smart people look at it for a couple of beers, then think about moving the pick up to the right if possible/practical, and add an accumulator.
Anyone Who Thinks 200hp isn't a lot in a Honda engine... there is more to power than just Peak Hp like momentum in velocity. Take a look at Mighty Mouse Crx in WTAC makes about half the hp to most of the competition and set a record breaking lap time. and dominated all classes in a fwd chassis. with like 550- 650hp
LOL- it's not a prob when your car weighs 750 - 800kgs. When it weighs 1250 - 1300kg's it's gonna be slow as fuck. A stock SR20DET would smoke it. Why not RB or 2JZ swap it and be an actual man. Not a child pretending to be a big boy
Dude, that car is sexy af. I have ALWAYS wanted to get my hands on a 240, but they don't come up for sale often and when they do they're outrageously priced.
Watch out for that loose back seat, it's flapping around in the turns. That stack cluster is the secret sauce, looks like it came that way from the factory amongst the interior pieces! And all that didn't make the Toyo's chirp once, great grip! 👍😎
Which oil pump are you using a OEM TSX one? If so then swap for a RSX-S pump, (+5HP), then maybe go sump if needed. I have two K24 builds, I know bruddah. Next would be top end build, either K20A2 head or KTune setup if staying N/A.
I used to rock an H2B (prelude motor with B-series trans) back in the day. You might have to put more oil into the car. I had to put 6 quarts of oil instead of 4.1 quarts which is what the factory called for. I had zero issues over the few years and about 50k of driving it.
Peter, another guy I watch TommyFyeah is having trouble with gearbox noise on his kmiata setup as well. Be on the lookout for flywheel issues. His is going through slaves and throwout bearings, bad clutch engagement etc. Scary about the oil pressure issue.
His problem may be flywheel related, but it's hard to tell with a zf transmission because they tend to make more noise without a dual mass flywheel because of loose gear lash. Add to that the fact that there is no longer a guibo or a CSB to absorb the vibration it might be a thing that he might have to get used to.
I warned you guys very early on to adapt UUC's short shift kit which is more well received by the bimmer crowd. I still don't know about that KMiata shifter setup. I mean, they've got a killer reputation... but that looks hella short to me and it isn't adjustable height wise (For the leverage adjustment. Too many people ruin good gearboxes with notchy ass short shift mods. I hate most aftermarket short shifters, especially Honda units that you have to hammer into gear). Garagistic and others would have likely welded you a custom DSSR to adapt to the s14/UUC kit if you measured. Further, the KMiata shifter looks to hard mount to the chassis at the shift housing. With a stock bmw there's only a rear bushing 'fixing' the shift housing to the undercarriage, allowing some misalignment of the shift assembly during heavy cornering (you can see the shifter swinging around on nurburgring onboard videos). With your setup the engine and tranny have to pivot around that aluminum plate at the shift tunnel with no bushing to soak up the angle of the dangle! I can't see that working well over time, and I'd definitely recommend hard engine and trans mounts with a fixed shifter on a VF box. I suspect you'll feel some bind when cornering hard and trying to change gears due to the fixed alignment of the shift housing. I'd also look for scrape marks on the shifter/drive shaft as these parts are naturally close to the BMW driveshaft so it's up to you to ensure you have clearance on the S14! Here's BMW short shifter info for anyone who's actually listening : store.uucmotorwerks.com/articles/SSK-COMPARISONS.htm store.uucmotorwerks.com/articles/SSK-The-UUC-Difference.htm You guys never respond or thank me for any of my input but I hope you can tell I'm not trying to criticize, usually I'm mainly trying to point things out for your viewers.
The throws aren't short at all actually. I'd prefer them to be shorter, my UUC shifter in the E28 is way shorter. I completely understand about hardmounting the shifter not being ideal but I also see no point having to fab up a rear carriage since the Kmiata shifter works so well. The motor and trans mounts are hardened and I dont feel we have any drawbacks to the setup. There's zero issues with it going into gear, it feels precise and firm so I'm pretty happy with it currently.
Yeah, in hindsight it doesn't look too tight between the actual gears. The shifter just looks low to me. I guess my knob is longer. Ladies. You could run a taller shift knob if you ever feel the need for more leverage. If it works it works, I would expect no less from kmiata. I've played around with making the shift feel better on the stock setup. Weighting the shift rod, a dssr and replacing everything else. Maintenance of the wear parts makes a big difference in the stock linkage but it still has that same high effort 'unique' feel to it when every part is brand new. There are rear shift housing bushings available in the aftermarket sold as poly for stock/softer engine mounts and delrin for solid engine mounts. I'm hoping this is for vibration and noise suppression as opposed to preventing bind and broken parts with the wrong combo of engine/rear mount or that could imply hard mounting the shifter may cause similar problems. This was one of the reasons I brought up my concern with shifter mounting. I think the i6 causes most of our concern over mounting options in the e36 world.
Accusump, or some other oil accumulator system is what I'd recommend. Great insurance for a couple hundred bucks. Significantly cheaper than a dry sump, particularly if you're going to buy it in kit form. Below 10 psi seems dangerously low for a high revving engine, I remember there being some shade tree mechanic/weekend racer rule of thumb of wanting around 10 psi per 1K RPMs. I doubt the engine will blow immediately, more likely it'll be a cumulative damage scenario. Otherwise keep up the good work, K240 is sweet.
Oil starvation via air bubbles is still the major issue here despite the pan being baffled so it’s safe to say we can stop beating that dead horse with stick. Process of elimination would be the most efficient way. Not enough oil, or possibly having to run a thicker weight? Check to make sure there are no leaks in the pickup assembly. Dare I mention the over silicone issue we’ve had in the past 🤭.. Sorry, lol just trying to help
If you have a base model k24 the vtec is only on the intake Cam. You want to run a k20z3 head or k24z3 head. They are only in the type-s models. The z3 head has vtec on both intake and exhaust Cams.
Good work guys! Glad to see it worked well first time out? How were the water temps? Not sure if Pete had this problem with his SR, but mine would run incredibly hot at TMP after just a few laps. Before Ramesh had his S2K he also had an S13 SR. First thing he told me was how much better the coolant temps were in the S2K vs the SR. Said the thing could lap all day.
Most serious race cars end up with dry sumps, the faster you go the more you need one. That said, if you log oil pressure with an aftermarket sensor I think you'd find most cars have alarming drops in oil psi on track if you're going Harry flatters (for normal guys who don't know this). I suspect this is a combo of a longitudinal layout that's not ideal for the oil pan design and the aftermarket sensor reading more accurately than factory. I've found that baffle pans are a band-aid unless you have trap doors inside and even then they have their limits. The BMW shifter assembly is a known problem, I don't know what you ended up going with but it looks short relative to a normal bimmer option, though I don't have another S14 to compare to ;). Short throws on these boxes make for notchy engagement, the best explanation is available from UUC somewhere out there in the vast expanse. You want to retain some leverage/length with these boxes. You guys also weren't using the typical BMW shifting style to prevent money shifts, also recommended by UUC (especially to those unfamiliar with the getrag/VF boxes). I'm warning you gents, respect the money shift or buy spare valves and a head gasket.
I think I remember that you had to install the motor at an angle ( top of motor tilted towards passenger side) which would tilted the oil pan too. So maybe re-engineer the oil pick up to be biased towards the passenger side of the the pan? Otherwise straighten block and put a power lump in the hood...
Thanks to all for the suggestions, we'll be working on figuring out why the pan isn't working as it should, we think it has to do with over baffling. We also have it overfilled during the track outing and it didn't help but this is how we do things, test and then fix!
Bolt some plexiglass to the pan filled with cooking oil to simulate hot engine oil, a gopro looking into the plexi and replicate the g-forces and study the footage. I don't know how you'll replicate g forces... Minibike spinning a merry go round at a park? Ride the tea cups at Disney? Spin in circles holding it until you barf? Small scale astronaut style centrifuge?
Get an Accusump.
Baffles are not enough, you need baffles to control and trapdoors to block flow towards the timing chain area.
During gforces towards the timing chain area, almost all of the flow must be blocked, during forces away from them they must be allowed with hinged doors and a block off plate.
I have had success on my car which pulls around 1.2g's with the original windage tray to prevent frothing, a baffle plate to slow the flow around, and the trap doors to block the oil from all running into the timing area.
An accusump type reservoir might help as well in the event of short term failure of oil control systems.
Here is an image of my setup to give you an idea of what should be suitable. i.imgur.com/15ro6qS.jpg All of these plates must almost touch all edges of the pan.
Speed Academy you guys fucking suck...
Time for a series on dry sump oil systems...
Baffle and trapdoor. wont need dry sump. They are probably about to do a video about how to rebuild a k20 with spun bearings, because they did a ton of damage during this video.
Also that fuel cutoff needs to be raised in Kpro, the k24a2 is good for 8300 at least.
@@austin5806 well it already has baffling and trap doors soo
FlyTheElephant all thats been done so...
I don't know if any one still makes them but a swing pick up could be a solution as well. (Swing pick up is free to move around the oil pan. The car turns left, oil goes right, the centrifugal forces excreted on the oil pick up drives it right as well, allowing the oil pick up to stay with the oil.)
They intentionally did not go with a dry sump system because buying just the dry sump kit would cost way more than the whole motor itself. It's probably cheaper for them to blow a motor than it is to go dry sump.
This car is so beautiful.
Also the backseat is getting wild @ 9:10
I noticed it flapping around @4:00 mark as well.
It is beautiful
That's a huge problem... General rule of thumb is 10 PSI per thousand RPM.
The low oil pressure issue may be the reason why the car doesn't feel strong coming out of corners. With low oil pressure vtec won't function right.
I wonder if they baffled the pan..yes i dont watch all of their vids got kids to feed
@@vincevegacustoms754 yes they did. I'm sure you spend more than 15 minutes every couple days doing something less worthwhile than watching these videos, maybe it's time to evaluate your priorities
M3NT4L5 speed academy > 15 minutes of doing nothing 😂
You gotta baffle and trapdoor oil pans on ks if you pull over about 1.1 or 1.2gs towards the timing chain.
In fwd k's its left turns. In rwd k's its under braking.
I'd get the oil pressure issue sorted otherwise you'll have a dead k series relatively quickly 😬
even at 80 psi?
@@BEYTEK serious question, would adding more oil hurt anything?
Yes adding oil above the level of the factory windage tray will cause large amounts of frothing which will cause air bubbles to be pushed through the oil passages which is almost as bad as running totally dry.
@@austin5806 that makes sense
I dont know how much more than the full level is above windage for k20a/a2. But they went to a lot of effort to design a great windage tray for it.
Holy fucking shit, it’s actually happening. After years of waiting. Awesome build guys, really stoked for y’all.
Pure awesomeness;
Loved the Deboss cameo at the end, those guys are champs
Finally track time with the k-swap 240.
that thing looks like a riot on the track - frikin awesome work fellas.
You might try an Accusump system to maintain oil pressure in the lefties.
Band aid - fix problem first
I really wasn't that hyped for this car but you guys are awesome. Well made. I appreciate the content and ideas of you guys
Man PT is excited!! Really happy for ya guys!
Great work guys can’t wait for my k swap bmw 2002 to come together
All the hard work paid off. This is going to be one hell of a street car!
Great work on this series guys. As someone who has tracked hondas for years I'll say that the oil pressure dipping to 5-10 psi is a little worrying. I'd bet at small tracks like your home test facility it will probably be fine but going somewhere like Buttonwillow with a 100mph high G load sustained corner you'll be in a world of hurt. I run the extra capacity Moroso pan on my K20A engine on Hoosiers and I don't have issues but I assume you dont have the room for that. Maybe work with Kmiata on a new baffle design. Cheers.
Its so satisfying to get your project out after alot of effort, looks super fun to drive. Good luck sorting the niggles! This channel is climbing up to become one of my absolute favorites, great work guys! Btw, try having the lap belt lower against the hip bone, not the soft parts :)
Guys invest in an Accusump! You precharge the unit and when oil pressure drops the oil charge in the unit will maintain the system pressure.
+1 for that hood love that thing. Good job on all you have done. Better than most who never leave the garage.
This channel has def become my favorite go to yt channel!! Great content with every upload. Good job guys!
Great to see it finally on the track and already performing well! Hopefully I can get my SR S14 finished for some comparison next summer
YESSSS FINALLY!! Congrats on the (almost) finished K240 build!
Boostedboiz had a similar oil pressure issue and the guy they got the oil pan from told them they needed to put more oil than the engine regular carries
Didn't they shim the oil pump too?
Jakob Kerr yeah it increased the oil pressure when you add shims
In rwd K24 i see everyone use k20a type R pumps. These guys used a type s pump. Might be a contributing factor
@@ryanjames4740 type s and type r pumps are the same thing. same part number im pretty sure
Good job guys, nice to see all that work pay off!
Looks like it should be super fun when you bolt that turbo on it.
I really think a episode on suspension setup would be awesome, more so around the premise "understeer = soften front" etc. Just an idea
ANY TIME YOU SWAP A K AND PUT IT SIDEWAYS YOU GOTTA MAKE A CUSTOM BAFFLE SYSTEM BECAUSE OF THE ANGLE OF THE MOTOR AND THE WAY THE GFORCES PULL THE OIL AROUND THE PAN REACH OUT TO THE BOOSTEDBOIS THEY HAD THIS ISSUE AND THEY FIXXED IT
Put a 3 quart oil accumulator, moroso makes one fairly cheap, and definitely it’s amazing, fully recommended guys!
I'm sad to see this series end. It had the best intro of them all
Awesome build. Love that stack cluster
Happy for you guys. When I had my ep3 I always put an extra full quart in on track days. I think it was purely anecdotal but we always said the k engines take forever for the oil to get out of the head and back go the pan. It's not that there is a windage issue, rather a return issue. Not sure if that's the truth, but it's the gospel we followed and never had an issue.
Amazing car guys. Pure jealousy on my end. It's the perfect triangle car (speed, handling, looks)
This build is goals
Add more oil about a half quart
was going to say, he needs to add half more oil. I had this same problem back in the day with my old k-swap.
Local guy with a k-swapped miata also had the motor fail on oil starvation. You should find a pan that's made for north-south install the original pan shape is ng
You guys are such legends. I would love for you to take my GTI around the track next season!
9:10 the roll bar is really just to keep the back seats from hitting you in the head haha
As for the low oil pressure just don't take the car to an oval track 👍
Simple test, put half to a full liter more oil in it. Btw, have you changed to a Z32 brake master sylinder?
They changed it a long time ago
I agree with the half a liter
Exactly what I was going to recommend. Could even start with a quarter of a liter.
I had an sr20 I had to do that with. Go around a corner to hard and the oil pressure would drop ridiculously. Half a quart later and your back to normal
@@2losersinbasement you're*
Sorry had to do that :p
Wow she looks amazing 😍
chill out guys, the last two weeks you 're making so much progress on your project cars..
I have heard that Ballade Sports in SoCal were having oil issues when swapping a k-motor into a S2000. You might want to reach out to them or research this phenomenon.
Another great video from Speed Academy! Good stuff boys! Is that the Deboss truck i see in the background? Quattro Debocho Audi review in the works? That would be sick.
The brakes are touchy mainly because the stock S-Chassis vacuum booster provides too much assist and kills modulation and feel. I HIGHLY recommend finding a B13 Sentra non-abs vacuum booster and installing it. Also, I'd highly recommend switching to a 27mm (17/16") Z32 BMC if you haven't already. Your brake setup is also very heavily front biased so it's probably very easy to lock the fronts.
I endurance road race an S14 with a VQ35DE in the American Endurance Racing (AER) series here in the states and I've gone through the gamut with brake setups. I've made my own big brake kits for the front and the rear of the car using components that have far cheaper running costs and perform better than anything OEM Brembo from that era. If you're up for it, I would love to send you guys front and rear kits to install on that beauty and test, in conjunction with the recommendations I noted above.
You haven't watched our previous series of S14 videos :) This car is equipped with the B13 booster and Z32 BMC albeit a 1inch one if Im not mistaken. I have less aggressive pads that I think should help with the lock up but more than willing to hear what suggestions you have. Shoot me an email at peter@speed.academy
Ha! Guilty :D Sorry, a friend of mine forwarded this specific video and I haven't had a chance to go through them all. Pads will help, but you're still heavily front biased from purely sizing. I will email you. Thanks for the reply!
I think you might be right about over baffling. With the motor sitting on the slight angle, all the oil get pushed up the side of the block, and the trap door is not going to want to open to let it get down to the pickup. I would take the pan off, have a few smart people look at it for a couple of beers, then think about moving the pick up to the right if possible/practical, and add an accumulator.
Congrats guys.
Speed Academy and Deboss Garage in the same video! I feel a strange tingle in my nether regions.
How about a build cost breakdown?
Yes this.
I want to know as well.
It's beautiful Pete. Awesome.
Anyone Who Thinks 200hp isn't a lot in a Honda engine... there is more to power than just Peak Hp like momentum in velocity.
Take a look at Mighty Mouse Crx in WTAC makes about half the hp to most of the competition and set a record breaking lap time. and dominated all classes in a fwd chassis. with like 550- 650hp
LOL- it's not a prob when your car weighs 750 - 800kgs. When it weighs 1250 - 1300kg's it's gonna be slow as fuck. A stock SR20DET would smoke it. Why not RB or 2JZ swap it and be an actual man. Not a child pretending to be a big boy
you're an idiot 2jz weigh like 500lbs so there is your 1300kg's right there ... fb's are trash too@@danielbrealey2924
and saying a Nissan 4cyl is better than a Honda 4cyl is like shooting yourself in the foot and blaming millennials
DP rolling with his Gang Life jacket.
Proper cool how you break molds and have got s14 as a grip car and e46 m3 as a drift car. Not your typical conventional youtuber!!
Idk why you guys said it sounded bad in your last video cause it sound freaking amazing l.
What’re your alignment specs? You need between -2.5 and -3.5 degrees of camber in the front.
The boostedbois have a vertically mounted K series in a sti and they did a oil baffle. Don’t quote me but take a look.
Dude, that car is sexy af. I have ALWAYS wanted to get my hands on a 240, but they don't come up for sale often and when they do they're outrageously priced.
An oil accumulator should help with the starvation issue. Good job on finishing up the project, and getting it on the track!
Watch out for that loose back seat, it's flapping around in the turns. That stack cluster is the secret sauce, looks like it came that way from the factory amongst the interior pieces! And all that didn't make the Toyo's chirp once, great grip! 👍😎
I love it!!! K series for the win!! Turbo will make this car a monster!! But you guys tell me when your ready to sell it....
🍿 I would love to see you guys install and test an accusump and see if it helps the issue with oil starvation 👍🏼
Which oil pump are you using a OEM TSX one? If so then swap for a RSX-S pump, (+5HP), then maybe go sump if needed.
I have two K24 builds, I know bruddah.
Next would be top end build, either K20A2 head or KTune setup if staying N/A.
This is awesome! A very unique swap
For the short term you could probably just over-fill the oil a bit. In the long run you might want to go dry sump or find another solution.
I used to rock an H2B (prelude motor with B-series trans) back in the day. You might have to put more oil into the car. I had to put 6 quarts of oil instead of 4.1 quarts which is what the factory called for. I had zero issues over the few years and about 50k of driving it.
STILL so weird for me to hear Honda noises from a sick AF Kouki, haha!!! Awesome build guys! Just some fine tuning now!
This car is beautiful
This thing is clean as hell
Congratulations speed Academy on this build! were you guys at Cayuga?
love thiss channel
Those wheels are beautiful!
Man this car looks great
6qts is what i use + oil cooler. had the same problem with my ae86
Peter, another guy I watch TommyFyeah is having trouble with gearbox noise on his kmiata setup as well. Be on the lookout for flywheel issues. His is going through slaves and throwout bearings, bad clutch engagement etc. Scary about the oil pressure issue.
I think tommy's issues are shite. Sounds like a flywheel problem to me....
Had a pilot bearing eat itself too. That one was the craziest to me.
@@anthonyantoine9232 i wonder if kmiata knows anything about this or have a similar issue....hhmmmmm
His problem may be flywheel related, but it's hard to tell with a zf transmission because they tend to make more noise without a dual mass flywheel because of loose gear lash. Add to that the fact that there is no longer a guibo or a CSB to absorb the vibration it might be a thing that he might have to get used to.
Is it just me or does the gearknob looks like its moving around a lot under braking? Could be a source of a problem
Canton Accu-Sump would do the trick for that oil pressure issue, keeps cost down and piece of mind.
I warned you guys very early on to adapt UUC's short shift kit which is more well received by the bimmer crowd. I still don't know about that KMiata shifter setup. I mean, they've got a killer reputation... but that looks hella short to me and it isn't adjustable height wise (For the leverage adjustment. Too many people ruin good gearboxes with notchy ass short shift mods. I hate most aftermarket short shifters, especially Honda units that you have to hammer into gear). Garagistic and others would have likely welded you a custom DSSR to adapt to the s14/UUC kit if you measured.
Further, the KMiata shifter looks to hard mount to the chassis at the shift housing. With a stock bmw there's only a rear bushing 'fixing' the shift housing to the undercarriage, allowing some misalignment of the shift assembly during heavy cornering (you can see the shifter swinging around on nurburgring onboard videos). With your setup the engine and tranny have to pivot around that aluminum plate at the shift tunnel with no bushing to soak up the angle of the dangle! I can't see that working well over time, and I'd definitely recommend hard engine and trans mounts with a fixed shifter on a VF box. I suspect you'll feel some bind when cornering hard and trying to change gears due to the fixed alignment of the shift housing. I'd also look for scrape marks on the shifter/drive shaft as these parts are naturally close to the BMW driveshaft so it's up to you to ensure you have clearance on the S14!
Here's BMW short shifter info for anyone who's actually listening : store.uucmotorwerks.com/articles/SSK-COMPARISONS.htm
store.uucmotorwerks.com/articles/SSK-The-UUC-Difference.htm
You guys never respond or thank me for any of my input but I hope you can tell I'm not trying to criticize, usually I'm mainly trying to point things out for your viewers.
The throws aren't short at all actually. I'd prefer them to be shorter, my UUC shifter in the E28 is way shorter. I completely understand about hardmounting the shifter not being ideal but I also see no point having to fab up a rear carriage since the Kmiata shifter works so well. The motor and trans mounts are hardened and I dont feel we have any drawbacks to the setup. There's zero issues with it going into gear, it feels precise and firm so I'm pretty happy with it currently.
Yeah, in hindsight it doesn't look too tight between the actual gears. The shifter just looks low to me. I guess my knob is longer. Ladies. You could run a taller shift knob if you ever feel the need for more leverage. If it works it works, I would expect no less from kmiata.
I've played around with making the shift feel better on the stock setup. Weighting the shift rod, a dssr and replacing everything else. Maintenance of the wear parts makes a big difference in the stock linkage but it still has that same high effort 'unique' feel to it when every part is brand new.
There are rear shift housing bushings available in the aftermarket sold as poly for stock/softer engine mounts and delrin for solid engine mounts. I'm hoping this is for vibration and noise suppression as opposed to preventing bind and broken parts with the wrong combo of engine/rear mount or that could imply hard mounting the shifter may cause similar problems. This was one of the reasons I brought up my concern with shifter mounting. I think the i6 causes most of our concern over mounting options in the e36 world.
K is the way fuck A 2jz 7:57 damn that bad boy sounds so damn good. =)
Accusump, or some other oil accumulator system is what I'd recommend. Great insurance for a couple hundred bucks. Significantly cheaper than a dry sump, particularly if you're going to buy it in kit form. Below 10 psi seems dangerously low for a high revving engine, I remember there being some shade tree mechanic/weekend racer rule of thumb of wanting around 10 psi per 1K RPMs. I doubt the engine will blow immediately, more likely it'll be a cumulative damage scenario. Otherwise keep up the good work, K240 is sweet.
Great build 👏
Im just finishing my k20a2 turbo swapped mazda rx8 running haltech elite ecu.
Im sure ill see you guys at tmp
Im from Niagara falls
K series makes great engine noise it's like music to my ears
Perfect setup for downhill/touge thinking of doing it to my z3
Oil starvation via air bubbles is still the major issue here despite the pan being baffled so it’s safe to say we can stop beating that dead horse with stick. Process of elimination would be the most efficient way. Not enough oil, or possibly having to run a thicker weight? Check to make sure there are no leaks in the pickup assembly. Dare I mention the over silicone issue we’ve had in the past 🤭.. Sorry, lol just trying to help
Awesome. More videos of this car. See how fast y’all can go without aero!
This realy makes me realy want to finish my Turbo Miata(diff broke)! Waiting for parts right now. Trackdays for days in the spring!
Seeing this makes me kinda miss my s14. Same year and color as this one. Sold it back in April.
Windage tray, also a couple more oil pan mods that will help oil surround pickup tube in turns.
Love the sound! Car is awesome! That rear seat tho lol 😁😁❤️
I'd be happy to see some turbo-TEC (and solved oil pressure issue) :) Awesome build.
If you have a base model k24 the vtec is only on the intake Cam. You want to run a k20z3 head or k24z3 head. They are only in the type-s models. The z3 head has vtec on both intake and exhaust Cams.
this car needs a deeper sump and check that oil pick up tube for leaks. and use some 10w40.
dream car!! red 240sx black wheels and a k swap!! i have a red ek9 and red 2017 sti both with black wheels!
Good work guys! Glad to see it worked well first time out?
How were the water temps? Not sure if Pete had this problem with his SR, but mine would run incredibly hot at TMP after just a few laps.
Before Ramesh had his S2K he also had an S13 SR. First thing he told me was how much better the coolant temps were in the S2K vs the SR. Said the thing could lap all day.
SR had overheating issues for us, hence why this is such a better setup already. 10 laps in a row with zero issues!
You don't have to get a dry sump, you can get a canton oil accumulator. That will prevent oil starvation and be way cheaper than a dry sump.
Damn i love that car, K series motors are the shit i can't wait to finish my MR2 so i can have fun with that K series.
maybe an accusump will help with stabilizing the oil pressure on corners and also to stop start up wear with pre oiling
3:58 "Nothing yet that I can complain about " *rear seat becomes unattached* 😂
Most serious race cars end up with dry sumps, the faster you go the more you need one. That said, if you log oil pressure with an aftermarket sensor I think you'd find most cars have alarming drops in oil psi on track if you're going Harry flatters (for normal guys who don't know this).
I suspect this is a combo of a longitudinal layout that's not ideal for the oil pan design and the aftermarket sensor reading more accurately than factory. I've found that baffle pans are a band-aid unless you have trap doors inside and even then they have their limits.
The BMW shifter assembly is a known problem, I don't know what you ended up going with but it looks short relative to a normal bimmer option, though I don't have another S14 to compare to ;). Short throws on these boxes make for notchy engagement, the best explanation is available from UUC somewhere out there in the vast expanse. You want to retain some leverage/length with these boxes.
You guys also weren't using the typical BMW shifting style to prevent money shifts, also recommended by UUC (especially to those unfamiliar with the getrag/VF boxes). I'm warning you gents, respect the money shift or buy spare valves and a head gasket.
YAAAASSS! K SWAP ALL THE THINGS!
sounds good!!!!
Yes the oil pressure loss is a issue especially on a k that very dependent on oil pressure
I think I remember that you had to install the motor at an angle ( top of motor tilted towards passenger side) which would tilted the oil pan too. So maybe re-engineer the oil pick up to be biased towards the passenger side of the the pan? Otherwise straighten block and put a power lump in the hood...
6 qts oil 10-30 i had the same problem with mine.
Rip some Tech - your should make that into some merch :)