2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Ford Edge AWD rear wheel bearing replacement
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Ford Edge AWD rear wheel bearing replacement.
In this video I show you how to replace the rear wheel bearing, it is important you have the special tool as it makes life much easier.
I was able to source the tool on Amazon for 1/2 the price of Snap on:
Amazon.com
amzn.to/3vOIXKr
Amazon.ca
amzn.to/3UmuQ8t
Torque values:
Axel nut is 203ft/lbs
4 bolts that hold hub to rear arm 98 ft/lbs
2 brake caliper bolts to anchor plate 41 ft/lbs
If you have any questions or comments please let me know.
#garageking
I ordered the Snap On tool and decided that today I would try it out. Without this video I would have given up so thanks for making this video! So today here in the Hammer its was a comfortable 19 degrees so it was perfect to do in my driveway, the only thing I did different was take the shock bolt out and move the shock to the side. I was in my driveway and my jack wouldn't lift the car too high. So laying on my back and having the shock out of the way gave me more leverage with a piece of pipe to loosen the four bolts that hold the bearing in place. Oh and my bearing came apart in two pieces when I used the hub puller shown in the video. Lucky thing I had a air compressor and air hammer to separate the backing plate and the remnants of the bearing or else I would had to put the everything back together and take it in, great video and if your doing this at home have patience, the four bolts are not fun going back in so take your time. Once again this was an awesome video thank you for posting!! 😁😁😁
I feel touched by your comment!!!! Thank you soo much and its comments like these that definitely push me to do my best to make great videos. I'm glad you got the job done and it all worked out for you. I do really appreciate you comment. Thank You :)
Great video. I made my own special tool. I purchased a 3 1/2 inch T60 bit and used my grinder on it. Worked great.
That's a great idea!!!!! Glad you liked the video ;)
Same here w/grinder
@@JLT3have a pic of it? I’m just doing this job now…. And just came to the conclusion that I have to do this lol 😂
Great video man. I did one today without that special tool. I live in the "rustbelt"............yeah, that was fun. I'm getting this tool. Thank you for sharing this information.
Subscribed
Hey thanks for the comment. The tool is a lifesaver, especially if everything is rusted up !!! Thanks again !!
Thanks for the video! I'm going to be undertaking this same job on my wife's 2010 awd edge, and thank you so much for the tip on this special tool that is required to loosen / tighten those T60 bolts! What a horrible design by ford
Glad I could help you out, the tool is a must in my opinon, there are aftermarket ones available now so you don't have to buy the Snap On. I think I got the links in the video description.
@@GarageKing much appreciated for the links! got one on order!
@@MrDausen Thank you, this was one of my earlier vids and can't believe its got almost 100K views !!! Glad its still being shown.
Saved me a headache for sure! Thanks for this video!
Thank you kindly good Sir !!!!
Very nice job with this video. What a pain to get those hub bolts out. Thanks a lot Ford!
You know it, its not the easiest job.
You saved me soooo much trouble I ordered the snap on t60 torx bit for Ford Edge and Lincoln mzk bearing removal it’s 67.89 that’s shipping and tax
That is awesome you got it done !!! That tool really helps a lot, and it is really good quality. I know its expensive, but you know its way cheaper to do it yourself and buy that tool, than to take it in to the shop !! Plus now you have the tool on hand if you ever need it again, or you could sell it, as Snap On tools don't really loose their value.
Thank you man for taking your time in explain us every detail of your work! World needs people like you. New subscriber!
Thanks so much for the comment. They mean soo much to me!!!!!! If you have any other questions just let me know.
@@GarageKing Sure bro! Keep coming New videos!
Thanks. I viewed this to see what my mechanic went through replacing my rear wheel bearing. Gone are the days of backyard jobs. I very much appreciate what modern day mechanics do.
Thanks so much for the comment, I do appreciate it !!!
EXCELLENT DESCRIPTIONS!! THANK YOU
Thank you for the great comment !!
I couldn't get the BMW tool so I had to grind a taper in a Harbor Freight long T60. Then the bolts were easy to remove. But the hub was so stuck I needed a slide hammer to remove it. And then on installation, restarting the hub bolts was misery. I had to use a puller to hold the cv stub partway into the bearing to make clearance behind the tone wheel. This should be a quick job but it's not because the hub bolts are too close to the center.
Well you had a busy Saturday !!! I know, when these vehicles were newer they came apart easy. Now this job takes hours as everything is soo rusted together. I know that !!!! Good on you for grinding down the Harbor Freight T60. At least you know that tool was strong enough and did not twist up. The Snap On one I used in this video worked well, but I'll bet the Harbor Freight was a lot more cost effective. Congrats on tackling this one on you own, its definitely a feel good project when you are done :) Happy Saturday to you and thanks for the comment :)
I used a 3/8" long hex head because I didn't have the torx and every place I called didn't have it. Had to hear the old bearing housings near the bolts on the E breakers side to get them to snap loose.
Hey give yourself a pat on the back, not easy to do it that way. Congrats on not giving up and getting it done !!!
Gr8 video by the way
Thanks very much !!
Thanks for the video, great job!
Thank you for the great comment, I read them all and do appreciate it !!!!!
I've got a 07 Edge AWD, thinking I am going to need to change front and rear bearings. Are all four the same part or do I have to buy specific front/rear left/right?
Hey there and thanks for the comment, the left and right are the same, but the front and rear are different. That goes for pretty much all vehicles I have ever worked on. Hopefully I helped you out and if you have any other questions just let me know. Here is a front wheel bearing I did on a Rav 4, ua-cam.com/video/3EIG5DqpJew/v-deo.html the Ford is similar.
What noise was it making that you realized it was the bearings and not something else?
Hey there, it was howling pretty good, you could really hear it at about 35MPH, there was no clicking or anything that would suggest it was a joint.
Would this also be the best and easiest way to remove the axle?
Very good question, and I havent had to pull a rear axle on one of these things, but I think you still have to remove part of the suspension, as I don't think you can pull the axle though where the bearing is, it won't clear. Although I'll give you a high five for being creative, I think that suspension has to come apart.
I just take the top arm off the knuckle then push the axle back a bit, i can get my regular T60 in there
Hey thanks for the comment. You know I never thought about that !!!!!
That worked?
What was size of the torx bit you needed to use ?
Hey you caught me at perfect time, just responding to questions and saw yours. Its a T-60
Great job where you buy the special tool?
Hey there, I got the tool from Snap On. It was 50 bucks. I’m on holidays right now and don’t have access to my laptop but there is a link (I don’t get paid anything) I’m just sharing for a non snap on one. I think it’s the same price. It’s by AST tools.
Ok thanks
Anytime !!
Great video were I can't buy te special tool to remove the Star bolts
When I did the video you could only get from Snap On, now they are available on Amazon !! amzn.to/3vOIXKr
What procedure did you follow for torquing the axle/spindle nuts? And did you reuse the old ones?
Hey brother thanks for the comment, I re-used the axel spindle nuts and used an impact gun to tighten them. This way they can be tightened without any side load on the bearing (the vehicle is still lifted) The torque is 203ft/lb and you can check it with a torque wrench when the vehicle is back on the ground.
Thanks man!
@@korey7733 Anytime brother, hope you are enjoying your weekend :)
I was told by Ford that the Axel nuts are 1 time use nuts.
Is the 2008 Lincoln awd the same
Hey There, thanks for the comment. I'm not sure %100 but I would say they probably are. It really easy to check as all you have to do is pop your head underneath and look for those torx bolts that are deeper than the ABS ring. If you see them, the job will be the same. Thanks buddy :)
If I don't have a wheel puller can I just beat the axle in and pull the hub off
Hey thanks for the comment, you can use a hammer on the axel to TAP it in, DON"T wail on it :) But before you do that make sure to spin the axel nut on so the threads of the axel are protected. The nut might be a little tight coming off after you TAP the axel loose, but the threads will be ok. Once the axel moves in (you won't be able to remove it) but when its in an inch or two, then you can beat on the old hub flange (circular part) where the wheel studs are, and it should come out. Let me know if you have any other questions :)
What size socket is the axle nuts
Hey there, it is a 6point 32mm. Good luck :)
I have an 08 Edge. It's insane how rusted they are underneath. Look like 80 year old barn find.
You are 100% right my friend!!!!! I see it all the time and its too bad for a newer car. I don't know why they rust so bad but they do. Maybe its cheaper steel underneath?
In the rust belts, yeah. Where I am they're spraying sodium chloride liquid to pretreat the roads, and that stuff just tears through sheet metal. Plow trucks are junk in 5 years without routine under chassis spray outs after a storm.
Yeah my 07 is to but my 78 mustang ii looks shiny and new under it and it was parked from 84 -14 outside in the Missouri weather tires dry rotted off it and even ate the wheels up but body has minimal rust wish I could say the same for inside and anything rubber like the t-tops seals 😂
Will a regular t60 torx bit work or do you absolutely need that special bit?
Hey Brother, you can use a regular T60, but you have to grind it down to get past the housing, also it has to be long enough. Make sure it's an impact one because if its not hardened when you grind it down you will weaken it, and depending on how tight the bolts are you may snap the socket. The tool from Snap On makes it easy, I think its $50 CAN so probably around 35 USD.
I'm having hell rite now trying to figure out how to get the dam thing off. I might just have to order the bit. Thanks for the video and reply!
@@devinmunoz3424 Anytime brother, its a tight area to get into, and the tool does make it a bunch easier.
How hard did you have to fight to separate the bearing from the backing plate? I've seen videos where people were having a super hard time.
It wasn't that hard. I don't think I even used WD-40. How I took it apart was I held the backing plate in my hand and whacked the bearing from the back with a good sized hammer and it came out with about 3 or 4 hits
@@GarageKing nice. I'll have to remember that
How many miles were on it when it began to go bad or when you replaced it?
Hey There, I can't remember exactly, but it was not a lot. I think it was around 150kms so about 80K miles. Somewhere around there.
What’s the tool you are using to push the axel? The one you attach with the lug nuts?
Hi Ryan, I used the "Powerbuilt Model #648643 2pc Hub Puller Set" tool for pushing the axel. I'm in Canada and an Amazon link is www.amazon.ca/Powerbuilt-Alltrade-648643-Puller-Tool/dp/B0028QGTB8 (I don't get paid anything for tool referrals so feel free to search away for the best price you can find) If you need anything else just let me know and if you checked out the channel ( I have a lot of variety) I would appreciate if you would consider subscribing :) Thanks!!!!!!!
How many hours did you install the new wheel bearing? Thank you
Hey there, it tool about 2.5 hours because I was filming so that took a little longer. I would think about 1.5 hours is pretty reasonable if the rust is not too bad
Whats the name of that special tool you used
I found two tool makers, AST and Snap On
asttool.com/search_results.php?keywords=BFLT60&image.x=17&image.y=13&stype=searchbox
shop.snapon.com/product/TORX-Insert-Bits/T60-TORX-Bit/S6560
The tool I used in the video was from Snap Op. The Snap On tool doesn't even look like its used. I was surprised at how durable it was. Good luck with the job !!!
Do you have a link or suggestion where to get the "special tool"?
Hi There, I bought it from a Snap On dealer. If you have one around they should know about it as it is commonly sold at the Ford Dealers. It is a T60 size and its part number is S6560. Any other questions let me know.
This is awesome thank you
@@oliviagorham5908 Anytime!!!!!! Check out my other videos if you like to do car work yourself, better yet, subscribe as I generally post a few videos every month!!!!
Did one without the special tool lol I used an Allen type T60 torx and put them in and out no problem. Just cut the L end off a T60 allen wrench and weld a nut head on the end. There is the special tool for a fraction of the cost.
cguy that’s a great idea!!!!! I guess if you don’t have a welder that might be difficult. But with a welder for sure. When you cut the end off will a socket go on the cut off end? I’m wondering if you can just cut the long off and use a socket? Good comment. I would appreciate if you would subscribe. Comments like that can help us all. You seem pretty knowledgeable.
what size triple square socket you use?
It’s not a triple square. It’s a torx bit. I’m not at home right now so I can’t check the tool. I do think it’s a T-60 size. I put a link to the tool. I don’t get paid anything, it’s just to help people so if you click the link it will take you to the tool and you can see the size. I think one of the links is for Snap On. That’s the tool I used in the video.
Where did you get that tool from and how much do I need to spend now on something that is under warranty but they don't wanna honor they're own contract 😮💨😅
Hey there, I got the tool from Snapon. The link is:
shop.snapon.com/product/TORX-Insert-Bits/T60-TORX-Bit/S6560
that's the canadian link, but you can find it on the US link as you have the tool #. Its tool S6560, and I paid 50 bucks in Canada for it. If you are in the US its going to be cheaper. You can just find a tool truck in your area, or order on line. Sorry you can't get warranty on it, if you lived close to me I would say bring it down :)
How did ot go from disc break to drum breaks
The drum brakes are for the park brake or emergency brake as its called. Those drum brakes are not actually used for stopping the vehicle when you are driving.
Can you give preload procedure...torque specifications?
There is no preload for the bearing, pre-load is only on cone style bearings (like the old front hubs on rear wheel drive cars or differential bearings) The bearing is a sealed unit so there is no pre-load to be done, you just make sure the axel nut is nice and tight. Also you should tighten in the air if you can before the wheel goes back on (this way there is no weight on the bearing when you are tightening it) I put the nut back on with an impact gun. Most axel nut torques (providing its a nut - like the Ford) are all around 200 ft/lbs give or take a bit. The torque specs I found on line say 203 ft/lbs and I posted the link in the video description. I'm not sure about those other 4 bolts, but generally those bolts are 50-70 ft/lbs on most vehicles so I just hand tighten them good, but don't apply as much force as you would with a tire, as a tire is around 100ft/lbs. I hope I helped you out and if you need anything else just let me know. Also DO NOT put any lubrication on the axel nut, it goes on dry.
What size is that tool. And do you call it if want buy one
amzn.to/3vOIXKr
What is the part # of the bolt removal tool special
It is a Snap On S6560, you can order it on line right from Snap On. If you go to AST the part# is BFLT60, and you have to find someone who sells AST
Where in Canada you're located
I'm in the Greater Toronto Area. What's up?
I do have a awd 2010 ford edge with grinding sound in the rear driver side. Learn that the wheel bearings causing the grinding, even louder when making turns. I live in Guelph as my mechanic retiring so he not taking on any major work.
@@jr.b.403 The wheel bearings don't really grind. They make a humming sound and should be loudest at about 80km/hr. Drive safely on an open road with a speed limit of 80km/h or higher and WITHOUT touching the brakes weave back and forth. The noise should change and if it does then its your wheel bearing. I have seen a few times where people mistake worn out grinding brakes for wheel bearings, as worn out brakes can cause noise when you weave back and forth, as even a good bearing has play and the rotor will rub against the pad that is work out and it is steel on steel.
What is the size of that special tool you're using
Hey there, its a T-60
What's the torque specs
axel nut is 203ft/lbs
4 bolts that hold hub to rear arm 98 ft/lbs
2 brake caliper bolts to anchor plate 41 ft/lbs
It was in the video description when you open it up, sorry about the late reply.
So clean the bolts and add anti seize to them and they won’t rust
Hey brother thanks for the comment. It depends on how corroded the bolts are. If you look at the vid at the 7:25min mark you can see the threaded portion was not that bad, and the bolts are coated from the factory, so I did not add any anti-seize to the bolts. If your bolts are really rusty then clean them with a wire wheel and you can put some medium strength (blue) thread locker on, or a tiny bit of anti-seize, but don't put much on at all. They are considered a suspension bolt and there are a million opinions about what to use, but when I was still working at the dealer we never put anti seize on suspension bolts. The service manuals always called for medium strength (blue) loctite as that will protect the threads from corrosion and the bolt can still be removed later without heat. Plus it prevents it from coming loose. You don't want that bolt coming loose :) If you have any other questions just let me know, thanks :)
@@GarageKing good information thank you
@@papabits5721 Anytime brother!!!!
No torque specs?
Hey thanks for the comment. The Axel nut is torqued to 203ft/lbs. I like to zip it on with the gun and check on the ground. This way it is tightened with no load on it (wheel is still in the air)
Look up using a C-Clamp to back off the pads. Takes three seconds to do.
Thanks for the comment and yup you can use a C-Clamp if you wish, that method has been used for many years. For me there was no need in this case as I did not replace the rotor or pads, so the caliper just slipped back on. Had I replaced the rotor or pads I would have had to push the piston back in. Also there are new affordable tools that make it easier to push the caliper pistons back in so you don't have to worry about the C clamp slipping off the rear of the caliper where the brake line is, especially if you have a dual piston caliper. I used a C-Clamp for years until those caliper spreading tools came out. You should check them out, using one did convert me. When you are on flat rate, fast and safe is best. Thanks for the comment and hope you are having a good day :)
@@GarageKing That comment was more for backyard mechanics... :)
@@ohger1 I hear you brother, thanks for that :)
Does it need to be a tapered for it to fit past anti brake ring?
Hey buddy thanks for the comment, are you referring to the tool? To be tapered?
Yes and is it a T60?
And where did you get the tool?
@@xDirtnutx Yup its a T60 and it has to be tapered
@@xDirtnutx I bought the tool from Snap-On, and I also found that AST makes one as well. When you go on the Snap on Website you will see the tool is not tapered. The picture is WRONG on their website, the tool you get will be tapered. Another subscriber verified this with me after he ordered the tool, he was kind enough to follow up with me. The links are in the video description for you for snap on and AST. I do not get paid anything or earn any commission, so you can buy whichever one you want. You may be able to make one, but you spend a lot of time grinding it down and then I don't know if it would be strong enough as the specialty ones are hardened steel. Please let me know if you have any other questions :)
You never mentioned the special tool size!
Hi There I put the link for the tool in the description (I don't get any commission if you buy) as its a snap on specialty tool. The actual size of the tool head is a T60, but a regular T60 won't fit as the body is too wide. You could take a T60 and grind the body thinner, and hope the tool wont twist apart.
What took is that
It’s a specialty tool that allows you to get into that tight area and remove the wheel bearing hub bolts. Thanks for the comment :)
Why didnt you show the hammering?? The video would have been a half hour longer??
Yes sir, these things can get really rusted in, and no one likes a long vid LOL :) This one wasn't that hard to hammer off, but I use one of those almost like mini sledge hammer. If you use a regular size hammer its going to take a lot more than 30min. So I use a heavy hammer. You comment is a good one, because you know it would have been great to show the type of hammer I used. I'll know for the next one. Thanks!!!
Lucky u I hate my bolts
Ya those bolts are tough
mine is a t-55 i was luck enough that a regular black t-55 worked@@GarageKing
did u change ur bolts ? i anna see if i can replace them with easier ones@@GarageKing
Hey There, I just put the old ones back in, with the tool it was actually pretty easy. Just make sure if you find new bolts they are the right grade and lenght@@Luui2x
You are one of the lucky ones, for most that does not work, you need to buy a lottery ticket LOL :) @@Luui2x
Lmao special tool...grind down a 3" impact t60 and done....8$ an 5 mins grinding back from tip.thays ur bs claim cant do it without yourtool
Thanks for the comment brother, and your passion. I don't make any money when people buy a snap on tool, and have no affiliation, so its not my tool. It's just one that I found. There are people that don't have the proper tools to grind down a T60. Also I'm not sure if a ground down T60 would be strong enough?? I never tried. I know the Snap On tool is hardened, and after I have used it a few times it still looks brand new which is pretty good.
If I ground down a T60 as you suggested, someone would have made a comment, "why are you wasting your time, you do know there is a tool for this???" When I do my videos I like to be able to say you can do the repair, but here are the tools you need. Not everyone wants to make a tool. You do and that's good you can do that, and I can do that as well, but not all the viewers can. You either need to make a tool, or use a special tool to get this job done. No way is wrong, they are just different. I appreciate your perspective.
@@GarageKing I don't think people understand how important the heat treat (hardening) is on a tool like your t60. I'm sure someone has made their own and twisted it into 2 pieces because they got it too hot from grinding. Love the vid. Well done!
@@josephk2958 Thanks for the great comment and you are 100% correct, the Snap On tool I used was tempered perfectly as it showed no wear afterwards. I didn't want to grind down a tool. You are right that when you grind down a tool it gets tempered due to the heat. Thanks for the comment !!
Bro include the bit number next time.
its a T60, I put some links in the video description to two manufacturers that sell it. If you are wondering I don't get paid anything if you buy from the links, one is from Snap On, and the other a tool company.