Was getting a P0320 code and all the symptoms of the cps going out (left me stalled out in middle of traffic a few times), so we got the part (NAPA $47) and watched your video. VERY helpful. It took us 3 hours and a lot of swearing but got it done. Code is gone, seems to be running great now. THANK YOU!
Thank you for making this video. For those watching Robert do it this way, this is absolutely the most pain free way to do this job! Do not try to go through the access panels in the cabin.
my daughter's jeep that we bought off of Craigslist and have had tons of issues with was stalling out on her. The garage we took it to had no idea what the issue could have been so i found how to search codes and came up with it being the camshaft position sensor. My husband and I worked on this while she was out of town and so far there have been no further issues with it cutting out on her. Thank you for the step by step info to help us.
Robert DIY this is my third 1999 jeep grand Cherokee that has had the same problem which i could never fix.......it stalls a lot until it finally dies out i have changed the crank sensor with no change ....it wont start but the engine does turn
When I took mine out I was skeptical, thinking there was nothing wrong with the old sensor. I didn't do any drop to ground test with a multimeter. I know if it's off by one voltage it will ground out the PCM and shut down the truck. I swapped mine out, a bit frustrating, but it's good to do that kind of stuff every once in awhile. I hope to God that it would just start up because that part was frustrating to do outside in the winter. LOL but it took me about 45 minutes to do. Started up, no codes. So far, so good and I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow. Thanks for your videos you earned my subscription.
This is one of the best videos I have watched on this repair. Note: some videos describe the paper on the new sensor that stays on when you replace the part and some show an access port below the radio on the transmission tunnel. Nice job!
I just did this sensor replacement and it requires a lot of awkward positioning. Thanks for your video, it did help to make the job a success. I used a wire to fish the sensor plug from one side of the engine to the other, and I was able to fit my hand in the front of the bellhousing.
Thank you Robert, your videos have been very helpful to me for years now. From Jeeps to Volvos, you've been a source of reasonable know how when it comes to issues worth youtubing. Been subscribed for a long while, and always go for your video when it comes up in a search of mine. You are one of the best!
Robert DIY i justttt came from trying it and rounded the 3/8 bolt haha. So didnt even get a chance to really do it. So now i gotta go get the bolt remover thing for rounded bolts smh. Gm is horrible with placements!!
This was the best video so far I found thanks buddy the rest of the guys posting videos about this we're doing way to much unnecessary work to get it fixed
Ok I used a sensor from orielys and I did disconnect the battery it still didn't clear the key with the slash thru it tho and fuel gauge still acts like it isn't working guess I'll have to get the other sensor
Great video, my 02 grand Cherokee is stalling and throwing p0320 code. It was the actual vehicle of a little old lady that only drove it to church and the grocery store. I've had it a few months, and it had just over 60k miles. I bet I will be watching many more sensor replacement videos for this Heap... I mean Jeep.
This has to be THE most helpful video that I've come across, so thank you so much! I wasn't trying to go through the whole lower dash, carpet, and firewall, which has been touted by MANY as the easiest way. Forget ya'll: this was a frickin breeze and didnt take 2 hrs to do it either! Great video and I did it without an assistant!
Thx Robert. Your video helped me install a crank sensor on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I saw another problem in the midst of finishing up . I found a cracked ( Broke ) negative battery clamp. Funny thing is I took the vehicle in to Aamco trans to get my rear axle seals replaced and a service of the rear differential. I had just come off the road a week before and the vehicle had been running fine for a long time but when I got the Jeep back from Aamco it started acting up ( dieing on the road, started after I tried a few times) then it gradually got worse. Tomorrow I am going to change out that battery clamp and see if that was what the problem was to begin with. Thx again Robert DIY
Very informative. Especially on what's needed to replace it. I tried to replace mine once and gave up because my hands wouldn't fit. I will definitely try this way.
Hello, Great video, and very helpful however you are leading people to one extra step that does not need to be done. You can easily access the CPS without removing the gear linkage cable. This can be done with a long extension rachet and a swivel head attached to it.
If you have no errors, you likely have a fuel delivery problem. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? It is also possible that the fuel pump is going out.
Eric Porter Thank you so for the informative video I tried everything and was about to give up and have my jeep towed to the shop but you showed me through this video thanks again Ooh-Rah its a Marine thang
Where did you get the cam sensor from? Are you sure it's plugged in properly? Check to make sure none of the connector wires are bad. Did the car have a CEL code?
i got a jeep v8 and i had this prob once and i changed everything you said you did ..and it come down to it my jeep jumped time ...so that could be your case as well
Having just completed this, I'll add the this with hopes it helps someone:. 1) Follow his guidance and get to that bolt holding the sensor by going through the front access plate behind the ashtray. Using 1/4 inch ratchet, 10mm socket, a 1/4 inch swivel and two 6" extenstions - I was able to easily get to the bolt and loosen it all the way, and didn't worry about it falling out completely at this point. The rest you'll do from underneath. 2) Tether the connector end using a long piece of string with one end looped around the connector and the other tied off to the battery side. Trace the connector from the oil pressure sending unit to the wire harness under the spark deck; the other wire that comes out of the harness that is the same size is the one that leads to the connector for the crankshaft position sensor. Look for that red wire. It may be easier to push the large wire loom off to the left side in order to have more room to disconnect that connector. Later, when you remove the sensor while under your WJ, you can just pull out the sensor and pull the connector over and down to you - and you will have something to easily pull the connector back into position for reconnect when installing the new sensor. For string attachment to the new connector, I used a loop with a loose knot, but a shoelace bowtie method would also work so that that once the connector is reconnected - you only have to reach down and give the tie end a tug to release the string. Or, just cut the string short if that's easier for you. 3) Removing that shift cable bracket would make things a LOT easier. On mine, however, the second/smaller 3/8 bolt to the shifter cable bracket stripped and was impossible to remove. Surprisingly, I was able to get my Left Forearm up to reaching the sensor by going up just behind the bracket. (My arms are thick, not skinny) I then snaked my Right Arm up, just behind the header, and over to the sensor quite easily as a 2nd hand to help hold the sensor and shield in place while my left hand was used to slowly get the bolt for both removal and later for installing the new one. When installing, this is how I got the bolt started back in properly til I couldn't turn it anymore - then went above and used the 1/4 ratchet set to tighten. ** While very descriptive and can take a while, this job was easier than I initially thought. The heat shield shown that goes over the top of the sensor is held by 1 bolt. Mine has signs of rust so I used sandpaper and a wire brush to remove the rust and clean it up, then spray painted it using engine paint to protect it. Let it dry thoroughly. The sensor bolt on mine was half-stripped and probably not the original bolt. I took it with me to Lowe's to buy a replacement and still got it wrong so jut reused the old bolt, but put some blue Locktite on it just in case since its where vibration occurs and I do not want to have to go back down there while on the side of the road. Best of luck.
yes all the lights come on when I turn the key on. are there any other typical characteristics of a vacuum prob or temp sensor issue you suggest I look for to narrow things down? Thank you for your help!
mine is an 2002 dodge stratus SE 4/dr 2.7 same issue though. starts to misfire after warmed up and driving a bit. doesn't do it when cold. the check engine light just came on yesterday. yesterday is when my car started with the hick-ups'. going to put a crank sensor in today. I watched you tube vid for my car. very easy to get at! should be no problem! half hour job!
Great videos brother. I am trying to replace my crankshaft position sensor on my 1998 grand cherokee laredo. What did you use to reach up there and get the bolt out for the sensor? I can get my hand and arm up there enough to get a good lock on it, did you use a certain tool to get to it?
I spent about three hours on this today. Got the bracket removed and completely out of the way but there is NO WAY I'm getting my hand up in there to get the sensor out. I was able to get the 11mm bolt out of the sensor but I cannot pull it out. Forget pulling it out how am I going to get the new one in!....There is another video that explains how to do it by removing half your dashboard and getting at it from inside the vehicle. I didn't want to have to do that but it might be my only option.
Thanks that video helped alot. Have you ever replaced brake assembly behind the brake pedal. Hearing a hissing noise when I let off the brake. The brakes work fine. Car stops fine. But behind the pedal is a boot and that's where I hear that noise. Thanks for your in advance Tonia
I appreciate the video. This may be going out on my 2003 Grand.. Not too sure yet. It just randomly stalls on the highway. RPMs drop to what looks to be zero. It did it twice yesterday a few seconds apart, but no other times in the 30 mile drive.
Unfortunately no. I even tried the on off ignition trick and it didn't show any codes. Maybe if I took it to a dealer so they could used a scanner that read live data?
Hard to say, usually fuel pressure problems do not throw codes, however, we had starting issues with our Jeep before the crank sensor finally went out with no code.
hi.. I'm wondering if the idle speed was fluctuating???... I have the same turn off problem while driving and I'm about to change the cam shaft sensor, what i've noticed, is that when I decelerate abruptly in a stop light or over a speed bump the revs go under the idle speed and the engine dies, some times the ignition goes without problem, but in the worst scenario it takes a lot of switch-on (as in a cold carb engine) or even worst it will not start for a while (almost half hour)...
i have code p0320 on my millage gadge... is this the same for this sensor...? 2000 jeep grand cherokee wont start or turn off on me... thanks for your help may god bless you sir...
Have the same, dreaded p1391 code. Four trips to the mechanic, and same problems. Runs fine sometimes, then stats stumbling, bucking, tach and speedo dials go crazy, idles funky, etc. Changed crank sensor (not mopar), dist. Brushes, tune up. Same problem. Seems to discharge the battery, but mechanic said it only had small draw.
The truck would run fine for several minutes and once warm it would stall, buck, and do all kinds of crazy things including misfiring. The crank sensor is most sensitive. Some vehicles are touchy with ignition and sensor parts. Since you are having "issues", I would suggest you only use OEM parts.
I have a 98 Grand, 140,000 miles, automatic, 2 wheel drive. had the transmission pan & gasket replaced after which it started to "almost" stall out when going from reverse into drive after sitting over night. Since then the problem has gotten worse & it now seems to try to stall out every time I go from reverse to drive. Does this sound like the crankshaft sensor or would this be something else? Appreciate your opinion.
on 2001 grand Cherokee... you can pull driver side carpet under gas pedal. you'll see shift cable plate, take 2 bolts off move metal plate, you'll see a hole, gives you a straight away shot at Bolt holding crank sensor on bell house, they are pain in butt to change sometimes!
I have not had a diagnostic test for codes. Check engine light is not on. I did not mention before, but as the jeep warms up it works better and doesn't shutter as much when going from reverse to drive.
Robert, I am having a crank intermittent no start problem with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Some folks are suggesting it's the fuel pump, others say the fuses. Any suggestions and will you be doing any videos about how to figure this out? I see you have a couple of fishing rods in your Jeep. I fish from my kayak. HELP,
Great video Robert and I only wished that had your mechanical skills! I started my 2000 Jeep GC today and it started bucking and the engine light came on. I was able to make it to my mechanic and he told me it was the crank case sensor. I was unaware of the many things this little sensor did. By the time I got the Jeep to my mechanic the Jeep would start but would stall. So he will replace this part for me. I had a rebuilt long block (4.0) put in this Jeep about a year ago (Bearings went in the old one - faithfully changed the oil every 3000 miles) Anyway, I have a question for you. When the Jeep is up to normal temperate and I come to a light it will feel like the engine is surging while at idle 'only when I turn the heat or a/c fan inside the car'. If I put the car in neutral or park it's idles smooth, no problems. Would this crank sensor be the culprit of this issue? I have already replace the AIC valve and thsat didn't do anything, but I'm just wondering what could cause this somewhat rough idle, again if I put the Jeep in park or neutral it seems to idle fine. If I turn the A/C or heat off it seems to idle fine as well. The car has is about to turn 200k mile and only 15k miles on the new engine and keep it super clean, I bought the Jeep new and really love my Jeep and can't hate car payments. However, if you have the time to respond, I would welcome to hear what you think. Thanks again for video and all the very best to you sir ....
Robert DIY Thanks for the reply, the mechanic (who is a long time family friend) tested the codes and it pulled the crank sensor, which match my list of codes that I printed off the internet and keep in the car for resources. Are you referring to the vacuum leak regarding the idle surging issue? Thanks for all the help! Hey, I'm a jazz sax/flute player and only wished that I had some mechanical skills ..... :)
Oh, I do not like after market crank sensors, only Mopar for me. Yes, I think the hunting idle is from a vacuum leak. - Nice, my nephew is a jazz trumpet/sax player/teacher.
Robert DIY Unfortunately, the dealership did not have one in stock and I need my car back, so I'll have to take my chances on the after market sensor. I was a touring musician and did a lot of studio work in NYC and taught at ECU. I still play, but getting older and my chops are getting slower. Hey, thanks for the help Robert, you're a great person to respond, all the very best to you sir ....
can you get the crankshaft position sensor from mopar on ebay or does it have to be from the dealer? doesn't the dealer use mopar parts also. its a a huge savings
Robert. I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Columbia Edition w/the 4.0L I 6 engine. For the last 6 months or so it was randomly been stalling out, idling very rough, and has won't start unless I put my foot on the gas and hold it there for about 45-60 seconds. This comes and goes. Sometimes it starts strong but has always had the rough idle. I think I need to put new O2 sensors in and was also thinking the crank sensor. The check engine light is on now but goes off and on intermittently. I did have some codes written down but have since lost it. I will get another code reading done soon. Any help/advice you could offer would be great, thanks! Great vid by the way.
I have my 99 jeep g.c and appears P 0320 is it just a sensor. I already change my fuel pump cost me 200$ its my big mistake and same problem . can start for a cool down and after 10 to 15 min died.
+Michael Martin What I heard is that the "shut off" is a factory issue and happens in all JEEPS "WJ", I have a 2000 Laredo model, and only sometimes i have that problem, if you have any other info how to fix it , please share , thanks!
Robert I have a 99 Grand Cherokee Limited and the alarm wont shut off when you put the key in the ignition how do you disarm it without the keyless entry?
I went to replace mine, the cover for the cable pass threw under the dash was lose. Removed it, the sensor was brand new looking. But the bolt was lose, tightened the bolt Boom fixed!
YUP YUP, only died out now n then. but never idled correctly, runs fine now. Al I had to do was be willing, now I have a sensor and a Fuel pump as i was going down a list. Runs good now zero issue's, just got tire's n the title.
Hi, I have a problem, with my jeep cheroke sport 1996. This is the code p1391. Is runing good but when I runing on the street no hace to muche strong and star to pulled y pulled. Thank you.
i need to replace my cam and crankshaft sensor...will the olds one cause my engine to cut off and shut down occasionally during idle? or is it the timing chain? or is it just the sensors?
Hello Friend. Greetings from Venezuela. good video. I have a 2000 4.0 and it gives me the codes p 1391 p 340. here in my country these sensors are too expensive. the request for amazon and I'm waiting to install them. saludos.
Was getting a P0320 code and all the symptoms of the cps going out (left me stalled out in middle of traffic a few times), so we got the part (NAPA $47) and watched your video. VERY helpful. It took us 3 hours and a lot of swearing but got it done. Code is gone, seems to be running great now. THANK YOU!
Thank you for making this video. For those watching Robert do it this way, this is absolutely the most pain free way to do this job! Do not try to go through the access panels in the cabin.
Thanks for sharing
my daughter's jeep that we bought off of Craigslist and have had tons of issues with was stalling out on her. The garage we took it to had no idea what the issue could have been so i found how to search codes and came up with it being the camshaft position sensor. My husband and I worked on this while she was out of town and so far there have been no further issues with it cutting out on her. Thank you for the step by step info to help us.
+Leslie kapis awesome! Thanks for watching.
Robert you are the man Bro. This is the only video that explains how to resolve this issue correctly. A big thanks to you
You are welcome
this video was a lifesaver, had everything done but could not for the life of me find where the damn thing connected, big ups man
***** Good deal. Thanks for watching.
That sensor always has to be in a very difficult location to access. Thanks for an excellent presentation.
Thank you for watching.
Robert DIY this is my third 1999 jeep grand Cherokee that has had the same problem which i could never fix.......it stalls a lot until it finally dies out i have changed the crank sensor with no change ....it wont start but the engine does turn
Hmmmm, what codes do you have?
When I took mine out I was skeptical, thinking there was nothing wrong with the old sensor. I didn't do any drop to ground test with a multimeter. I know if it's off by one voltage it will ground out the PCM and shut down the truck.
I swapped mine out, a bit frustrating, but it's good to do that kind of stuff every once in awhile. I hope to God that it would just start up because that part was frustrating to do outside in the winter. LOL but it took me about 45 minutes to do. Started up, no codes. So far, so good and I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow. Thanks for your videos you earned my subscription.
Thanks for watching and sharing.
This is one of the best videos I have watched on this repair. Note: some videos describe the paper on the new sensor that stays on when you replace the part and some show an access port below the radio on the transmission tunnel. Nice job!
Thanks for watching
I just did this sensor replacement and it requires a lot of awkward positioning. Thanks for your video, it did help to make the job a success. I used a wire to fish the sensor plug from one side of the engine to the other, and I was able to fit my hand in the front of the bellhousing.
Good to read. Hope it runs well for a long time.
Hello Robert. Thanks for the vid. As an owner of a 2005 jeep grand cherokee I found it extremely helpful and informative.
+Kitkatyaker Fishing Good deal, thanks for watching.
Thank you Robert, your videos have been very helpful to me for years now. From Jeeps to Volvos, you've been a source of reasonable know how when it comes to issues worth youtubing. Been subscribed for a long while, and always go for your video when it comes up in a search of mine. You are one of the best!
thank you very much.
This video is extremely informative and helped me to get my jeep back on the road. Thank you! :)
Bob Hencke Glad it helped.
Youuuuuu are thee only person who explained this to a Tee!!! THANK YOUUUUU!!!!!
+victor white you are welcome.
Robert DIY i justttt came from trying it and rounded the 3/8 bolt haha. So didnt even get a chance to really do it. So now i gotta go get the bolt remover thing for rounded bolts smh. Gm is horrible with placements!!
+victor white ouch.
This was the best video so far I found thanks buddy the rest of the guys posting videos about this we're doing way to much unnecessary work to get it fixed
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hey bud did you have to delete the codes after replacing the crank sensor
I replaced everything like you showed still doesn't wanna run
Had to use a Mopar sensor and you can clear the code with the battery disconnected.
Ok I used a sensor from orielys and I did disconnect the battery it still didn't clear the key with the slash thru it tho and fuel gauge still acts like it isn't working guess I'll have to get the other sensor
Great video, my 02 grand Cherokee is stalling and throwing p0320 code. It was the actual vehicle of a little old lady that only drove it to church and the grocery store. I've had it a few months, and it had just over 60k miles. I bet I will be watching many more sensor replacement videos for this Heap... I mean Jeep.
nwtimberlake Lol, thanks for watching.
This has to be THE most helpful video that I've come across, so thank you so much! I wasn't trying to go through the whole lower dash, carpet, and firewall, which has been touted by MANY as the easiest way. Forget ya'll: this was a frickin breeze and didnt take 2 hrs to do it either! Great video and I did it without an assistant!
Cool, thanks for watching.
Thx Robert. Your video helped me install a crank sensor on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I saw another problem in the midst of finishing up . I found a cracked ( Broke ) negative battery clamp. Funny thing is I took the vehicle in to Aamco trans to get my rear axle seals replaced and a service of the rear differential. I had just come off the road a week before and the vehicle had been running fine for a long time but when I got the Jeep back from Aamco it started acting up ( dieing on the road, started after I tried a few times) then it gradually got worse. Tomorrow I am going to change out that battery clamp and see if that was what the problem was to begin with. Thx again Robert DIY
Elemetalman That probably is the problem. Old vehicles have a lot of coincidences.
Thank you so so so much I have been searching for a video to show me exactly where to go and how to remove the crankshaft sensor. You rock
You are welcome.
Very informative. Especially on what's needed to replace it. I tried to replace mine once and gave up because my hands wouldn't fit. I will definitely try this way.
Done that job once 6 or 7 years ago and I have to do it again. Nice refresher video.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this! I save it to watch later in case I need to replace mine on my 01. I appreciate the thorough descriptions and video.
macgruder Thanks for watching.
GREAT INFO MY FRIEND!!! Lots of helpful DETAILS others fail to include in their vids. Mike in LA, Calif
thanks for watching.
Very thorough video. Heading into my shop to do a 99. But you never said a thing about patience. lol thanks, Robert.
Oh, I have all the patience one needs, my wife has dementia.
Hello,
Great video, and very helpful however you are leading people to one extra step that does not need to be done. You can easily access the CPS without removing the gear linkage cable. This can be done with a long extension rachet and a swivel head attached to it.
If you have no errors, you likely have a fuel delivery problem. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? It is also possible that the fuel pump is going out.
Eric Porter Thank you so for the informative video I tried everything and was about to give up and have my jeep towed to the shop but you showed me through this video thanks again Ooh-Rah its a Marine thang
P0355: Ignition Coil 5 Primary Circuit Malfunction. Got the info from Google. You probably need a new ignition coil rail. Part of a tune up.
Great video! Helped me change mine.
Also on my Jeep Cherokee 2004 you can turn your key off and on 3 times to get your codes. They appear on the dash.
***** Nice.
The one I removed was only in there for 2 weeks. Not sure if they get stuck or not.
Thanks! This gave me a big advantage to get this changed. P0320 didn't start and now it does again. Good thing it died in my garage =)
My 99 is throwing same code as yours, bolts are 11mm, everything else same,
Where did you get the cam sensor from? Are you sure it's plugged in properly? Check to make sure none of the connector wires are bad. Did the car have a CEL code?
If it is dying when it gets hot it might be the sensor. When was the last time the car was tuned up? Does it start when hot?
hey Rob great video ,very helpful with replacing the sensor , keep them coming
+Carlos Hidalgo Thanks for watching.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hope it works out.
Great video! It was extremely helpful.
i got a jeep v8 and i had this prob once and i changed everything you said you did ..and it come down to it my jeep jumped time ...so that could be your case as well
did the old sensor come out easy after you took the bolt off? I am trying to get it out and if feels like its stuck in there
It was a b*tch but I got it done. Patience and a bit of luck (getting the 10mm bolt back on). Thanks for the video.
You are welcome
May God bless you my friend great job on this and you are very informative and saved me lots of time and effort.thank you
+luke savage Good deal, thanks for watching.
Have you had the codes read?
Having just completed this, I'll add the this with hopes it helps someone:.
1) Follow his guidance and get to that bolt holding the sensor by going through the front access plate behind the ashtray. Using 1/4 inch ratchet, 10mm socket, a 1/4 inch swivel and two 6" extenstions - I was able to easily get to the bolt and loosen it all the way, and didn't worry about it falling out completely at this point. The rest you'll do from underneath.
2) Tether the connector end using a long piece of string with one end looped around the connector and the other tied off to the battery side. Trace the connector from the oil pressure sending unit to the wire harness under the spark deck; the other wire that comes out of the harness that is the same size is the one that leads to the connector for the crankshaft position sensor. Look for that red wire. It may be easier to push the large wire loom off to the left side in order to have more room to disconnect that connector. Later, when you remove the sensor while under your WJ, you can just pull out the sensor and pull the connector over and down to you - and you will have something to easily pull the connector back into position for reconnect when installing the new sensor. For string attachment to the new connector, I used a loop with a loose knot, but a shoelace bowtie method would also work so that that once the connector is reconnected - you only have to reach down and give the tie end a tug to release the string. Or, just cut the string short if that's easier for you.
3) Removing that shift cable bracket would make things a LOT easier. On mine, however, the second/smaller 3/8 bolt to the shifter cable bracket stripped and was impossible to remove. Surprisingly, I was able to get my Left Forearm up to reaching the sensor by going up just behind the bracket. (My arms are thick, not skinny) I then snaked my Right Arm up, just behind the header, and over to the sensor quite easily as a 2nd hand to help hold the sensor and shield in place while my left hand was used to slowly get the bolt for both removal and later for installing the new one. When installing, this is how I got the bolt started back in properly til I couldn't turn it anymore - then went above and used the 1/4 ratchet set to tighten.
** While very descriptive and can take a while, this job was easier than I initially thought.
The heat shield shown that goes over the top of the sensor is held by 1 bolt. Mine has signs of rust so I used sandpaper and a wire brush to remove the rust and clean it up, then spray painted it using engine paint to protect it. Let it dry thoroughly. The sensor bolt on mine was half-stripped and probably not the original bolt. I took it with me to Lowe's to buy a replacement and still got it wrong so jut reused the old bolt, but put some blue Locktite on it just in case since its where vibration occurs and I do not want to have to go back down there while on the side of the road. Best of luck.
Thanks for watching and sharing your tips.
Sounds like something else. Do you have a CEL? If so, what are the codes?
yes all the lights come on when I turn the key on. are there any other typical characteristics of a vacuum prob or temp sensor issue you suggest I look for to narrow things down? Thank you for your help!
great video...great dialogue! You are the man!
James Reynolds Thanks for watching.
mine is an 2002 dodge stratus SE 4/dr 2.7 same issue though. starts to misfire after warmed up and driving a bit. doesn't do it when cold. the check engine light just came on yesterday. yesterday is when my car started with the hick-ups'. going to put a crank sensor in today. I watched you tube vid for my car. very easy to get at! should be no problem! half hour job!
Good deal. Hope that does it for you. Try to use an OEM sensor.
I doubt it but it may be part of the problem. Have you had the codes read?
Great videos brother. I am trying to replace my crankshaft position sensor on my 1998 grand cherokee laredo. What did you use to reach up there and get the bolt out for the sensor? I can get my hand and arm up there enough to get a good lock on it, did you use a certain tool to get to it?
I spent about three hours on this today. Got the bracket removed and completely out of the way but there is NO WAY I'm getting my hand up in there to get the sensor out. I was able to get the 11mm bolt out of the sensor but I cannot pull it out. Forget pulling it out how am I going to get the new one in!....There is another video that explains how to do it by removing half your dashboard and getting at it from inside the vehicle. I didn't want to have to do that but it might be my only option.
Thanks that video helped alot. Have you ever replaced brake assembly behind the brake pedal. Hearing a hissing noise when I let off the brake. The brakes work fine. Car stops fine. But behind the pedal is a boot and that's where I hear that noise. Thanks for your in advance Tonia
tonia tutt May be a vacuum line somewhere. Look for that first.
I appreciate the video. This may be going out on my 2003 Grand.. Not too sure yet. It just randomly stalls on the highway. RPMs drop to what looks to be zero. It did it twice yesterday a few seconds apart, but no other times in the 30 mile drive.
Do you have a CEL?
Unfortunately no. I even tried the on off ignition trick and it didn't show any codes. Maybe if I took it to a dealer so they could used a scanner that read live data?
You may have a fuel pump failing. How many miles on the truck?
155,000 ish.
Hard to say, usually fuel pressure problems do not throw codes, however, we had starting issues with our Jeep before the crank sensor finally went out with no code.
Then I would check for spark, if you have no spark it can be the crank sensor.
hi.. I'm wondering if the idle speed was fluctuating???... I have the same turn off problem while driving and I'm about to change the cam shaft sensor, what i've noticed, is that when I decelerate abruptly in a stop light or over a speed bump the revs go under the idle speed and the engine dies, some times the ignition goes without problem, but in the worst scenario it takes a lot of switch-on (as in a cold carb engine) or even worst it will not start for a while (almost half hour)...
i have code p0320 on my millage gadge... is this the same for this sensor...? 2000 jeep grand cherokee wont start or turn off on me... thanks for your help may god bless you sir...
+Joel Gomez please Google and check the Jeep forum.
Have the same, dreaded p1391 code. Four trips to the mechanic, and same problems. Runs fine sometimes, then stats stumbling, bucking, tach and speedo dials go crazy, idles funky, etc. Changed crank sensor (not mopar), dist. Brushes, tune up. Same problem. Seems to discharge the battery, but mechanic said it only had small draw.
You may have a few different problems, however, you really should install a MOPAR crank sensor since you are still having issues.
The truck would run fine for several minutes and once warm it would stall, buck, and do all kinds of crazy things including misfiring.
The crank sensor is most sensitive. Some vehicles are touchy with ignition and sensor parts. Since you are having "issues", I would suggest you only use OEM parts.
Hello, that was go info, im having problems starting my 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee 4L, it seems to want to turn off. What can I do
Very helpful, you are a wealth of information sir! Thank you for all that you do!
Nicholas Fey Thank you for watching.
I've read that if you put a sensor in that is not mopar, you will have problems. Wondering if i should go through the expense again.
You're welcome.
I have a 98 Grand, 140,000 miles, automatic, 2 wheel drive. had the transmission pan & gasket replaced after which it started to "almost" stall out when going from reverse into drive after sitting over night. Since then the problem has gotten worse & it now seems to try to stall out every time I go from reverse to drive. Does this sound like the crankshaft sensor or would this be something else? Appreciate your opinion.
on 2001 grand Cherokee... you can pull driver side carpet under gas pedal. you'll see shift cable plate, take 2 bolts off move metal plate, you'll see a hole, gives you a straight away shot at Bolt holding crank sensor on bell house, they are pain in butt to change sometimes!
+Jabshier1980 thanks for sharing.
I have not had a diagnostic test for codes. Check engine light is not on. I did not mention before, but as the jeep warms up it works better and doesn't shutter as much when going from reverse to drive.
Robert, I am having a crank intermittent no start problem with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Some folks are suggesting it's the fuel pump, others say the fuses. Any suggestions and will you be doing any videos about how to figure this out? I see you have a couple of fishing rods in your Jeep. I fish from my kayak. HELP,
+Kitkatyaker Fishing Do you have any codes? ua-cam.com/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/v-deo.html
2 years ago when I bought it to dealer. An hour ago p0320 then p0463 both appears on the dash.
Wow best video ever
Kapono Jim Glad it helped.
Wow, never thought of a sensor getting stuck in the hole. Maybe you can tap it out.
Do you know if the CPM is in the same position on the 2.7 diesel 2003 jeep Cherokee grand limited. Thanks Kevin.
I have no idea.
Great video Robert and I only wished that had your mechanical skills! I started my 2000 Jeep GC today and it started bucking and the engine light came on. I was able to make it to my mechanic and he told me it was the crank case sensor. I was unaware of the many things this little sensor did. By the time I got the Jeep to my mechanic the Jeep would start but would stall. So he will replace this part for me. I had a rebuilt long block (4.0) put in this Jeep about a year ago (Bearings went in the old one - faithfully changed the oil every 3000 miles)
Anyway, I have a question for you. When the Jeep is up to normal temperate and I come to a light it will feel like the engine is surging while at idle 'only when I turn the heat or a/c fan inside the car'. If I put the car in neutral or park it's idles smooth, no problems. Would this crank sensor be the culprit of this issue? I have already replace the AIC valve and thsat didn't do anything, but I'm just wondering what could cause this somewhat rough idle, again if I put the Jeep in park or neutral it seems to idle fine. If I turn the A/C or heat off it seems to idle fine as well.
The car has is about to turn 200k mile and only 15k miles on the new engine and keep it super clean, I bought the Jeep new and really love my Jeep and can't hate car payments.
However, if you have the time to respond, I would welcome to hear what you think. Thanks again for video and all the very best to you sir ....
Also, I think that he's using an after market crank sensor, is this alright to use? I liked and subscribed! Thanks again!
Jazzman I believe you have a vacuum leak somewhere. You can also monitor voltage to see if they are changing. Alternator going out maybe.
Robert DIY Thanks for the reply, the mechanic (who is a long time family friend) tested the codes and it pulled the crank sensor, which match my list of codes that I printed off the internet and keep in the car for resources. Are you referring to the vacuum leak regarding the idle surging issue? Thanks for all the help! Hey, I'm a jazz sax/flute player and only wished that I had some mechanical skills ..... :)
Oh, I do not like after market crank sensors, only Mopar for me. Yes, I think the hunting idle is from a vacuum leak. - Nice, my nephew is a jazz trumpet/sax player/teacher.
Robert DIY Unfortunately, the dealership did not have one in stock and I need my car back, so I'll have to take my chances on the after market sensor. I was a touring musician and did a lot of studio work in NYC and taught at ECU. I still play, but getting older and my chops are getting slower. Hey, thanks for the help Robert, you're a great person to respond, all the very best to you sir ....
can you get the crankshaft position sensor from mopar on ebay or does it have to be from the dealer? doesn't the dealer use mopar parts also. its a a huge savings
Not sure what you are asking. I no longer have access to the Jeep. Whatever is in the video is all I have.
Robert. I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Columbia Edition w/the 4.0L I 6 engine. For the last 6 months or so it was randomly been stalling out, idling very rough, and has won't start unless I put my foot on the gas and hold it there for about 45-60 seconds. This comes and goes. Sometimes it starts strong but has always had the rough idle. I think I need to put new O2 sensors in and was also thinking the crank sensor. The check engine light is on now but goes off and on intermittently. I did have some codes written down but have since lost it. I will get another code reading done soon. Any help/advice you could offer would be great, thanks! Great vid by the way.
Justin Finn Follow the codes.
I have my 99 jeep g.c and appears P 0320 is it just a sensor. I already change my fuel pump cost me 200$ its my big mistake and same problem . can start for a cool down and after 10 to 15 min died.
thank you so much for the easy info. you really helped us a lot.
Leslie Lavacca Thanks for watching.
Nice video Robert i was driving this morning 2002 jeep grand Cherokee and it shut off, no codes it turns over just will not start....any suggestions?
Michael Martin Maybe the fuel pump failed. - ua-cam.com/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/v-deo.html
I hear it humming when i turn the key....thank you for the fast reply.
Check for PENDING codes.
Ill update as soon as i check everything out tonight after work thx again.
+Michael Martin What I heard is that the "shut off" is a factory issue and happens in all JEEPS "WJ", I have a 2000 Laredo model, and only sometimes i have that problem, if you have any other info how to fix it , please share , thanks!
Thank u so much I wish I had seen ur video before I paid 200.00 bucks !
yes and there is no errors at all
Can u tell me what code p 0355 means
Well done brother
Thank you and for watching.
Sounds like a vapor lock. The tin covered insulation under the fuel injectors wears thin and needs more insulation in that area.
interesting.
Robert I have a 99 Grand Cherokee Limited and the alarm wont shut off when you put the key in the ignition how do you disarm it without the keyless entry?
Ammiesha Mitchell Probably pull the alarm system relay. Check on the Jeep forum.
If I pull it will I be able to replace it later
I have no idea.
ok great video awesome set up and description. but did it fix the problem??
intel5811 Yep.
beat video I seen for it
+Lyo Nioux Cool, thanks for watching.
Did it work? Everyone shows how to do this but no one says if it works? Great Video!
I went to replace mine, the cover for the cable pass threw under the dash was lose. Removed it, the sensor was brand new looking. But the bolt was lose, tightened the bolt Boom fixed!
+Philip settimi Yes, when the bolt is lose it allows the sensor to vibrate away from the crankshaft. Too much space = no signal
YUP YUP, only died out now n then. but never idled correctly, runs fine now. Al I had to do was be willing, now I have a sensor and a Fuel pump as i was going down a list. Runs good now zero issue's, just got tire's n the title.
Thanks, however, I could not so I un-hooked it.
I have got the old one off but I can not get the new one in the hole. What could be stopping it?
If they look the same, likely have it at a bad angle.
I seen you used OEM product did you try after market first? Just trying to save money have already replaced a lot of parts but not this.
dustin spratlin Yes the owner tried 2 after market sensors that did nothing but cause more problems.
Thank you :) Is the Jeep still running good today?
I have no idea. I have not seen it for over a year.
From one Vet to another, Ooh-Rah!
Hi, I have a problem, with my jeep cheroke sport 1996. This is the code p1391. Is runing good but when I runing on the street no hace to muche strong and star to pulled y pulled. Thank you.
+Maria Rivas Google the code or use the Jeep forum.
This video popped back up in my recommended I used to watch back when I had my Jeep years ago man what a shit show that car was I don’t miss it
LOL
correction, I meant to say, "I can't" get my hand and arm up there enough to get a grip on it, did you use a special tool to reach it?
I'm pretty sure the video shows the tools I used. Did you watch the beginning of the video?
How can I remove the black arm bracket near the spring?
did the censor come out of the bell housing easy ? great video by the way..
+Scott Geiger Yes.
i need to replace my cam and crankshaft sensor...will the olds one cause my engine to cut off and shut down occasionally during idle? or is it the timing chain? or is it just the sensors?
These Jeeps have a history of Crank Sensor issues, I would try that first.
Robert DIY ok thanks alot..appreciate the response thanks
very helpful video Robert. thank you! SUBSCRIBED.
Brandon Henderson Thank you. Hope you find other videos worth while.
OEM is Mopar parts. As long as they say it's a Mopar part, you should be fine.
How do you get it out once taking the bolt out
+Nelsa Bellefleur It just lifts out.
would this code(P1391) also apply to my car 02 stratus? even though yours is a jeep? Crank sensor? That's the code I got when hooking up the scanner
More than likely. Many cars share the same code across the board. Misfire is P030x with most models.
Hello Friend. Greetings from Venezuela.
good video.
I have a 2000 4.0 and it gives me the codes p 1391 p 340.
here in my country these sensors are too expensive.
the request for amazon and I'm waiting to install them.
saludos.
+wil velas Thanks for watching.
Helpful though. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching.
Well what is the outcome is the car running better
I would not have posted the video if it did NOT fix the problem.