BMW E60 M5 SMG Hydraulic Fluid Change
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2024
- Today we take a look at the steps required to change to SMG III hydraulic fluid on your BMW E60 M5.
Fluid used- CHF 11S
If you found the video interesting or useful, don’t forget to give it a like. Make sure to check out the rest of my UA-cam channel for more BME E60 M5 content, consider subscribing if that’s your cup of tea.
Thanks for watching! - Авто та транспорт
can't wait to get one of these cars man. having your videos as a free resource would make ownership much less scary!
It’s not scary!
Damn brother, my E60 M5s will love you! I’ve been searching the internet for months trying to find the procedure to do this fluid change, to no avail. I can’t thank you enough for doing this! You the man, M Tech Guy! Thanks 🎉
No worries, cheers Jeremiahex
Great instructions, your car looks pristine
Thanks man, I hope the video helps you out with your fluid change
Great tutorial, thanks. Any chance you could do a video on servicing the SMG pump motor? Apparently they can get clogged up with carbon dust and perform better after cleaning.
Still producing the best BMW content on UA-cam. Can't understand why your subscriber count isn't 10 or even 100 fold higher
Thanks for the kind words Steve, it’s greatly appreciated!
I dunno man, but I am very grateful for the subscribers that do currently follow the channel
@@MTechGuy.
@MTechGuy can you please help me out on making a video on how to bleed the vanos line after replacing your rod bearings with your scan tool . Or is this how you do it after replacing the vanos line inside the block I'm not seen any info on this any where and you will be the only one making a video please help me out
@@catalinosolorzano7054 I plan to do one in the near future
@MTechGuy can you walk me through one I'm doing the vanos line right now and not sure how to bleed it afterwards
Big thanks for the all videos, learning alot for my 530i SMG 6 Speed!
I have a question @mtech guy!
I hope you can give it a quick read. :)
A symptom that is leading me to think that the pressure accumulator Is at fault.
When I cold start in the morning after the car has been off for a good 10/12 hours, it drives very rough, specially in first gear, very bad jerky movement to get going, gear changes are rough aswell, specially 1st and 2nd.. but! after a drive of 10-15 mins, everything start to become smooth again. I feel like it's taking time for the pressure to build up. my theory is that there is no nitrogen left in the accumulator that builds pressure when the car starts after a long nap, and builds up to correct pressure after 10-15 mins. Sorry for the long note here, what do you think?
I would start by making sure the fluid is at the correct level, then get the vehicle connected to a BMW scan tool, see what SMG codes it’s got and go from there
Another great video - I’ll complete this procedure on mine. That fluid looked very tired.
So helpful of BMW to put the SMG III fluid reservoir all the way down there. Its a five minute job to do this on an SMG II in an E46 as the Pentosin reservoir is under the bonnet.
Cheers Mark, it’s a good job to get done.
Yeah different set up to the E46 SMG II for sure!
Another Quality video👍 Been hoping for a while you would do this one! But also “dam you” because I’ve only just put the under tray back on!😂 So may save this job for the winter! Another worth while job on these if your looking for ideas: Remove the side skirts and clean underneath them as they harbour all sorts of dirt,Mud,leafs & grime! That just hold the damp, well in the UK anyway! Stop the rot setting in! They come off and go on fairly easily as well,so worth doing as a preventative maint every once in a while!
Cheers Duncs, easy 20 min job jacking up and whipping the under tray back off 😉
I did notice a lot of stones stuck under the side skirts while I was busy with this job, that’s not a bad idea- I’ll write it down! 👍
Love your videos ! so clean ! so easy to understand ! and you get to the point
Cheers man, I appreciate it
Hi! Great content and very appreciative of your thorough explanation and step by step instructions. I own a 2008 M5 with just about 68k miles. I just did the SMG hydraulic fluid change and it went very well. Thank you! The fluid that came out was dark orange, but the most concerning part was that there was much more new fluid going in compared to what came out. So i’m glad I did it and intend to do it every 15k miles along with the gear oil and diff oil moving forward. I m doing my oil change every 3.5k miles with 10w60 LiquiMoly and I add CeraTec to help with reducing wear on the rod bearings. The car was a south California car then with me in South Florida all its life, so cold start was never a problem. Plus it has the second drain plug so i’m not concerned about the bearing and will preventatively changed them after 100k miles. This might sound stange but this E60 M5 is one of the most reliable BMW i’ve ever owned. Despite its race pedigree, it’s built to last and it’s surprisingly easy to work on. Thanks again for the work you do, it really has an impact on getting the confidence of DIY and owning such an incredible piece of automotive history at a very small cost of ownership!
Cheers man, good to hear you are finding the channel useful. Sounds like your M5 is getting looked after properly. Yes, I found them to be very reliable for sure
Your vids have helped me so much! Thank you for making them. I think I’ve watched all of them for the s85 and keep referring back to them. Have you ever looked to do the x2 auxiliary oil pump gaskets?
Thanks for following the channel! No engine oil leaks currently, but if they do start leaking in the future I’ll replace them and more than likely make a video on it
Great video yet again , do you plan to change vacume lines , all of them
Cheers, no not at this stage, but maybe sometime in the future
@@MTechGuy bro any suggestion on rpm drop, after I rev on idle to 3000 rpm , but whe I leave the throttle the rpm drops to 500 and gain again to 750 rpm
just what i needed , planing on doing this soon . one question when you did the gearbox oil change you didnt show where the fill plug was . is it easy to find with the cooler removed ?
Yeah, it’s easy to find but tight access
Excellent knowledge once again. Have you done a video on removing the SMG pump? My E61 has just got the red cog and pump wont prime now. Keen to fix it myself rather than take to my local dealer.
Not made a video on that so far, normally it’s the pump motor rather than the pump itself that fails. If you have a red cog light it could mean any number of things though, best to carry out a diagnosis before changing anything
Hi MTechGuy. Codes are 4FA0 and 5101. Clutch position sensor and hydraulic pressure sensor faults. Car is now in 165,000km so I'm going to take SMG pump off and give it an overhaul. Can I take the PLCD sensor off at the same time or does the transmission need dropping slightly? TIA
@@neilyates3255 Yeah have to drop the tail of the gearbox to replace the PLCD, but with them two codes together there is a possibility it could be a leaky clutch slave
Thanks MTechGuy... that does make more sense now as the SMG pump still primes when the car is unlocked. Getting put back in the garage over winter. Job for next spring.
Have you done the gearbox oil also?
Makes sense to do it while you've got the car jacked up and the covers off
Yes, good opportunity to do both together. I changed the gear oil when I first bought the car-
ua-cam.com/video/4R-q8DFZ8PE/v-deo.html
Excellent
Can you tell us what the scan tool is that you’re using? Would be nice to be able to do these things without having to use a laptop and then trying to figure out how to get ISTA working.
Yeah getting INPA/ISTA working properly on a laptop can be difficult. In this video I’m using my Schwaben scan tool, I made a video on it previously-
ua-cam.com/video/qfAA3j9LaMM/v-deo.html
@@MTechGuy Awesome thank you. Love your videos. Keep up the good work!
can you disconnect the battery instead of getting the relay out ??? i'm looking to do it my self as well just wanted to know if it's the same thing !
thanks!!
Isolating the pump at the battery would work, you still need it connected for depressurising the system and bleeding afterwards though
What change intervall would you recommend?
Doesn’t need to be done that often, but might as well do it with the diff oil and SMG gear oil at the same time- every 30,000 kms or 4 years, whichever comes first
What scan tool model/manufacturer do you use? Thanks
Schwaben
how exactly does the pressure get reduced by the scan tool ?
It empties the accumulator into the reservoir. Although you are not breaking into the high pressure side of the system with this job, you need to do this to give you a true level reading at the reservoir
How much u put in there?
1Liter?
so you think it's safe to change the fluid if i just disconnect the battery if i don't have the scanner ????
No, the system has to be depressurise first, and best to bleed it following the fluid change
if you do this without depressurizing your not causing any damage just making a mess correct ?
You need to depressurise the accumulator into the reservoir to give you a true level reading
@@MTechGuy thanks bud !
@@MTechGuy think its a good idea to do it x2 twice to flush all old out ?
@@jayd1008 I think is probably unnecessary
Did you notice any improvement
Feels smoother, but might just be placebo effect! It was pretty smooth before anyhow