Customer Waiting: Angry Car Gods! Job takes 3x as long. Jeep Wrangler 3.6l
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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It just make my little heart smile seeing all the rust
It's got the big 3.6!
She needs the big nasty 🤣
A little bit of home for you...
Would have been a piece of cake for SMA! Pound cake!
I know! Right?
I changed the brakes on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler Ultd. last Spring...I am old so here goes...The parking brake shoes ALWAYS have had access hole in the backing plate to access the adjusting star on the pads with a "Brake Spoon" or a screwdriver if you don't have a brake spoon. You can adjust the shoes down and the drums will slide right off. Then you will just need to adjust them back up when you put the new drums on. The "Old Time" drum brakes used to have two access holes in the backing plate. One for the "spoon" and one for a screwdriver to push on the 'self-adjusting lock tab. When I did the ones on my Jeep I just backed off the adjuster and the drums came off without bending the backing plate or destroying the parking brake hardware. If the adjuster wheel was not accessable, then someone had replaced the shoes for the parking brake along with the hardware and put the adjuster in upside down.
"I am old so here goes..."
@@svenulfskjaldbjorn5401 , ever hear of a screwdriver? Either way, they should…but, I have brake spoons from 50 years ago.
@@unclegreybeard3969 , actually, means I have experience and will elaborate appropriately.
You make a good point about being sure the hub is mounted correctly in a few vehicles, for that very reason. You are also right that sometimes hardware can be replaced incorrectly. However the old principle that manufacturers always design a window to reach the star wheel is no longer correct. For example my '98 Dodge Ram has no window, you need to drill a hole in a specific spot if you need access, and you need to study the dealers manual to decide exactly where to drill. Electric park brakes are changing the landscape, perhaps requiring a scan tool to enter maintenance mode where the park brake can be retracted completely.
@@spelunkerd , I stand corrected. However, my 2016 Jeep JKU has them, as did every other vehicle I have owned over the years. Manufacturers have been working hard to eliminate DIYers from working on their own vehicles for decades.
For those wondering about the door hinges, there's a bushing that fits inside the hinge that the door pin mounts into and slides on. The stock one is aluminium with a nylon top where the pin rests. The fact that they're aluminum in contact with steel can cause a lot of corrosion.
The solution is to drive the old bushings out and install new brass ones with a little bearing grease to lubricate.
Good info.
Aluminum contacting steel is never a good mix.
AND, those doors lift off; their hinges separate in the middle of the hinge (top half of hinge lifts UP off the pin). Tappy-tap-tap !
@@kennylove188 That is what I was thinking. Put a floor jack under it see if it moves.
New delrin bushings do the trick
As a self-taught mechanic, it's almost gratifying to watch the professionals struggle to get things off. Of course, it's not my Jeep!
Good for you because when it comes to fighting stuck stuff there's only self-taught. Everything in manuals/classes always goes perfectly and that's a big hurdle for ppl who think they can learn to wrench in a classroom
True how true. Getting those frozen pieces of hardware apart without destroying them is one of the hallmarks of an accomplished backyard mechanic. Cussing, throwing things and bleeding are the other hallmarks.
Working on stuff these days almost seems like cheating. First you find a video on youtube to see how what you're taking apart comes apart. In the good old days you had no idea what the eff you were getting into, how it came apart, and, sometimes, how it went back together (I don't miss all that crap for a second).
I get the feeling.
@@boilermaker1337 - True that! _And also, finding out, the "old-school" ways, that seemed to work great, back in "the day"; can destroy the way things need to happen, now!_ {Lessons learned}
Doesn’t matter if your self taught or have a degree in automotive technology. Rust and corrosion don’t discriminate. They’ll give anyone and everyone who dares to mess with it a good fight.
The world needs more people like this dude. The planet would be a better place. 👍
As a JKU owner, here's a tip. The door hinge pins have a torx head bolt on the bottom holding them in place. I actually took those bolts off years ago. We go doorless frequently in the summer. There's even a built in storage space for the bolts in the back storage area under the mat.
You can then spray lube up into the hinge.
This is a common problem. So much so, there are kits made with Delrin hinge bushings to replace the factory ones, as they get very corroded. The kit comes with a tool made to drive the old bushings out. I found a drill is much easier, though.
For future reference, of course. 😉
hell I remember the old school Jeeps that you just lifted on the door and they came off. Granted they also had the zipper windows and were so much lighter.
First time I've seen someone break a rotor INTENTIONALLY.
I don't imagine all mechanics do things like clean the rust off the front of the hub. Love your videos man.
When I purchased my car, there were pennies in the parking lot everywhere. I asked the salesman why? He said all the salesman throw them out to the sales gods every day for good sales. Lol I visited the lot again with a friend getting her car repaired and brought him a handful of pennies. Rust the amazing welder.
The "it comes in waves" phenomenon seems to be true for all repair industries. I have been a RV tech, automotive tech and a railcar tech and have experienced it in all 3. It's weird!
For ten years I was a technical support engineer. The first call of the day usually meant that I would be dealing with that product most of the day.
i was hoping to see you fix the door hinge. thankfully, you took out my frustration on that rotor.
Looks like driving in salt water and not rinsing is taking its toll.
mostly just a Chrysler product thing. Whatever metal they use just rusts period.
It is a lot like a Mid West Jeep, rusty..
That amount of Rust is terrible.
As a Wisconsinite this looks like a typical winter-driven vehicle. The road salt eats cars alive pretty quick. My car went from being shiny and new looking 15 years ago has the crusty appearance package and trunk ventilation package thanks to the winter driving, even with occasional washes (when it’s warm enough).
Yep. That Jeep has seen the beach for sure.
Random fact; I recognize that truck at 28:55, it's a vactor/jetter combination truck used for sewer line cleaning. I know this because I work on those trucks. They are massive and have complex systems.
At first glance, I thought (color of logo), it was a Krispy Kreme truck. Would have fought for that job🤣🤣🤣!
It always amazes me that people will do callipers and rotors, but baulk at a few extra bucks for a fluid flush.
Especially when that fluid wasn't the greatest looking.
Rear shocks looked factory-original
People just don't understand the importance of it. As a mechanic, I think it's an out of sight out of mind issue. Sorta like air filters or cabin filters. Customers will swear up and down that it was recently replaced. When in reality it's been a year. Out of sight out of mind.
Americans don't view brake fluid as a consumable. It's not supposed to look like tea, much less coffee!!
@@abitoffcenter383 Virtually nobody replaces brake fluid every year. You won't find a single mass-market vehicle service schedule that states brake fluid should be replaced annually, because it doesn't *need* to be replaced annually. And even when people *do* insist on a brake fluid flush, 99% of the time the mechanic won't bother to include bleeding the ABS. I've seen so many vehicles that had the brake fluid flushed every few years, but never had an ABS bleed, meaning the fluid inside the ABS pump was same stuff that came from the factory, and was absolutely jet black when finally flushed.
@@dunebasher1971 if you flushed it every 2-3 years, the hard lines would never rust out, robbing them of the replacement job down the road. So heartless, wanting mechanics to be poor and starving on the streets.
Ppl today preach dont use anti seize. THIS IS WHY U DO use it!! If u dont torque the shit out of it, u hsve no probs! Been doing it for decades w/no problems. When u live in yhr rust belt, U HAVE TO.🤔
Reminds me of my Uncle, who was a mechanic for over 40 years. He had some tales to tell. Back when autos had 2 disc front 2 drum rear, some models you * had * to use the parking brakes (pull the lever ) as that is what auto adjusted the rear drums. If you didn't pull the parking brake lever when you parked the car, the star wheel adjuster would get looser and looser until it fell off entirely and jam up between the drum and the shoes then he'd have to get out the 8lb sledge and, like what you did, shatter the drum. There was no way, at that point, to get it unjammed.
Can't be a Florida ride, originally. Too much rust.
@@kevindickerson6306 Yeah, I would expect Eric O to be working on this hunk of rust.
I have never found a self adjusting brake set up that worked properly.
@@CrimeVid Because people don't know how to use them.
You have to reverse slowly and apply the brakes, or hand brake for the adjuster to actuate in most situations.
@@kevindickerson6306 maybe lives near the beaches ?
T-50 bit for the JK and for the JL. Pull the bottom nut out of the hinge and that’s how the doors come off. The factory door hinge liners are known to corrode and let the doors get stuck.
Not sure about this jeep but lots of newer jeeps have a mode you need to select on the infotainment center to put the brakes in maintenance mode. Found that out the hard way struggling like you. Maybe this jeep has it, maybe not. I'm not a jeep expert and maybe you already know this, I apologize if you do. Thanks for the videos Ray have a good week
Maintenance mode is only used on vehicles with electric parking brake motors. Where this vehicle has a conventional cable drum system, it does not have that.
@@bdaig12 thanks for clarifying that.
That makes sense thanks for the clarification. I am not an expert like I said, but I have had this problem on jeeps before. Not sure when they started doing it.
for the door hinge, all you have to do is remove the bolt on the bottom of the pin and gently tap the pins up , remove the door and grease the pins after cleaning the rust off of them.
Also 1 second of wd40 / penetrating oil isn't going to work instantly 🤦♂️
i did refrigeration repair for almost 40 years . i made a recovery tank using a empty freon tank . i brazed a schrader stem onto the top of the tank them hooked a vacuum pump to tank now connected a hose and was able to draw up brake fluid
There are also one-way valves you can put on to drain them when you are alone. Don't really need a fancy vacuum system.
@@whuzzzup Yeah, I use Russell Speed Bleeders on my truck. They work great. Cheap, too.
Rainman Ray: "That bolt scares me".
Eric O. at SMA: Face palm shaking his head.
LOL
I was actually shocked to see the emergency brake shoe material was still bonded to the shoe itself. About half of the brake jobs I've done on rear disc brakes come with the de-lamination option and must be replaced. I've always wondered why rotor manufactures don't machine a recess in the area where no shoe contact. This would allow room for rust making it so much easier to remove.
That would be a great Idea and even for old style drum brakes . 👍
Excellent idea! Too obvious once someone said something!
Would probably add a risk of less contact surface and maybe same rotors not being able to be used for multiple cars/brakes. With the parking brake it wouldnt matter too much pro ably, but with drum brakes it would matter if you got like 2-5% less contact surface. I mean if its not a 100% fit.
In the nearly 60 years that I have been driving cars I have never encountered one with an emergency brake; maybe American cars have one but here in the U.K. ours have a service brake and a parking brake, colloquially known as a footbrake and a handbrake respectively, though the parking brake is sometimes pedal-operated.
@@JUANKERR2000 - hmmm, i think it’s merely a difference in terminology here in the states. Emergency brake = parking brake
It’s pretty common for vehicles to have worse rust on the left side because that is the side that gets splashed by oncoming traffic. Nice work!👍
The more they bother you the longer it takes! I love it when someone who has no idea what the job is, commits you to a time line.
I can relate, I owned a commercial construction company for over 40 years. This pissed me off more than anything else.
is also double the rate triple if they want to help
Your comment about theory and practice reminds me of one of my favorite sayings:
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice, there is".
Proven EVERY DAY.
About things coming in waves: I'm a handy man and see this phenomena frequently. Last week it was temperature sensors on ranges. I replaced three of them, all different brands of appliances, but the sensors appeared to be the same make.
Of course things-come-in-waves, or alternately bad-things-come-in-bunches. From a statistics standpoint, it is very unlikely for random events to be spaced evenly in time, so they tend to happen close together in time.
Had 2 Jeeps, will Never mess with the junk again.
Cerberus is the car god, three heads, so things come in threes. That's why body shops and junkyards have beware of dog signs.
Someone has been driving that vehicle on the beach and probably in the salt water! Even the shocks were so rusty I would strongly suggest replacing them!
Jeep is the SAE term for rust. Definitely a Jeep thing!
@@marathonfreak67 I have a 98 Ram 1500 I bought new in 98 and it doesn’t have any rust compared to that Jeep. The Ram has been on salted roads up north several times, it’s been in the FL sand. I planning on replacing the shocks because it still has the original ones on it, the only rust is on the exhaust system. Everything is original except the water pump, radiator, belts, hoses,and tires. Both Jeep and Rams are made by Chrysler, what’s the difference?
In my thought process the job will take as long as it takes to get the job done right and another thought if you ain't willing to do the job yourself then there is no room to complain about how long it take and how much it cost.
Uh, depends on why one is having someone else do the job. For most of my life I did 99% of the work on my cars, but since becoming handicapped I can't even change my own oil (and even sometimes change a bulb). I should be able to complain when some incompetent turd does a poor job, takes too long, or charges too much for a job I know how to do but no longer can.
(...and $78 for an oil change on a KIA Soul is simply robbery.) 😉
Feel for you ,stay strong :)
An air-hammer works great on rusted on rotors, learned that from Eric of South Main Auto. I did a full brake job on a 2012 Lincoln MKZ last year and it was rusted badly on the driver's side here in upstate NY.
Love your channel, I've learned a lot by watching you work. Adapting some of your phases instead of cursing like a sailor on shore leave.
Big Nasty would eat that thing for lunch 😁
@@SouthMainAuto Well hello, what a honor. 🤩
I do both :P and also now doodly-do-dooo :D ... The air hammer technique is awesome if you have a really strong air source and a heavy duty air hammer, the weaker ones are pretty underwhelming. I learned to separate ball joints, steering rack arms and other stuff with air hammer, it is by far better than using a slide hammer any day.
I am an industrial mechanic but I work on my own car too.. No way I could wear those nitrile gloves all day even here in Michigan.. My hands would be raw from sweat.
Rainman Ray's Repairs after seen this video you have massively earned my respect for that work on that jeep 💯👍👍👍
Man... Every time I see newer jeeps, it makes me envy my one buddy's Classic Jeepster. He put modern disc brakes all around, an msd ignition, powder coated the frame, and put 2.73 gears in it. (it's a cruiser, not a crawler, after all). Thing's a joy to work on, but then, it gets well taken care of.
Had a 69 jeepster sad to say it was a bad run of vehicles ...fun to drive but literally disintegrated within 3 years
@@robertroberts9782 Bad runs and jeep go hand in hand, it seems. I have an 87 YJ that is awaiting someone not crippled by arthritis to get it back on the road. (My brother took it off road and killed the back differential.) Did you ever check out the Willys Jeepsters from the 40s and 50s? That's the kind my friend has (1949, I think?) I always loved the mix of Jeep and the phaeton styling of the 40s. It's a pity Jeeps went away from keep it simple, reliable and true to tradition more and more over the years. I'd rather own a Willy's CJ-2 than a JK anymore. (I guess I am just a stick in the mud.)
Yeah, not exactly a fair comparison between a customized/modified vehicle and daily drivers. Don't we all wish we had the time and money to build the first..
@@markdoldon8852 My point was that my preference for a daily driver would be an older, simpler, and easier to maintain vehicle. Bells and whistles only count for so much when you are focused on driving. In fact, a lot of these expensive plastic toys are so crammed full of gadgets and settings, it's a wonder people can focus on the road. For years my dad's daily driver was an old Dodge Truck with the bent 6. I'd still take it over a modern Jeep for two main reasons: Reliability, and ease of maintenance. Everything was a simple system... In fact, you might say it verged on being an orange crate and goggles by the end of its life. Nevertheless, you could fix pretty much anything on it with a Motor Repair Manual and basic tools. I think automakers are missing a huge market, for selling simple, economical vehicles.
I'm thoroughly impressed by the force in which the brake cleaner comes out of that can!!
I would tell my sisters to carry it in their purse. They could hit an assailant from 12 feet away in the eyes. Brake cleaner will blind you for at least a couple minutes at least.
100% agree with the waves of things happening that you need to fix.
Oh and my condolences to the sanity of the person working on the X1/9 in the parking lot...
I had one. An exercise in futility.
Yep one of those we needed this done 30 mins ago. Customer is waiting.
That rotor slo-mo was epic. Anyone else thinking the bearings are now toasted..?
I was wondering how they would hold up to that, but I also always wondered why so many vehicles have the bearing running directly on the axle shaft. I guess they're just that tough.....
@@dustcommander100 I believe that Ford has "induction hardened" the axle shafts. I do know the bearings are a PITA to change.
@@stanleybaker6989 I've worked on both Fords and Chevrolets having that axle/bearing configuration, and never liked it. Having to replace an axle because the bearing failed and chewed it up just doesn't seem right - and it might be hard to find an axle shaft for an older car. I was surprised when I learned my half-ton pickup had the same arrangement - I assumed it was a better arrangement than the passenger cars had. I was also amazed when I learned that this arrangement was used at least as far back as 1947 on Chevrolets. I guess these bearings can take a lot of shock, as well as the side-to-side sliding they do.
Anyone else remember the old Jeeps (50s-60s) with drum brakes that had the wheel studs pressed into them and the hub? Snap On had a special puller for them and half the time you had to heat them cherry red to get them to budge.
Oh skilled one. Why doesn't mechanics put anti-seize on the hub face before installing rotor to counteract future removal issues? Curious. I retired in a rusty area and have proceeded to do just that. I haven't lived hear long enough to know if it works yet.
I live in Michigan, have been doing that for years. It works well. :)
@@superchiefusn5601 Very cool to know. Thanks for your input.
Just so y'all can appreciate Ray's editing work, this job took 2hrs 19mins even though it is only 29 mins long.
When you drive your grocery getter Jeep
in to the Ocean and then just park it. 🙄
Somebody else must fix it. That's Ray. 😎
Free tip. If you know it has drum parking brakes. Go for a ride around the lot and use the e brake to slow down it’ll eat away some of the rust sometimes. I’ve also done this on the list with the rotors just spinning and it works some of the time.
Just a suggestion. I've backed the auto adjust off tension and then rubber mallet the hell out of the drum to get the shoes to jump back against the relieved spacer rod. And if all else fails get some heavy wire snips and clip off the little t ears on the spring retainer stud because those are pretty cheap to replace and it pretty much collapses the brake guts once those pins are cut loose
I was thinking the same, I was wondering if I missed him backing off the tension or something.
@@AlexR_44 Probably knew they were stuck like that when did a pre check to see if was going to be easy ?
If you listen to his comments he said that the adjuster was frozen and couldn't be backed off.
@@bobmartin4942 then beat the adjuster with a chisel until it spins or breaks. If it's froze up it can't be used again anyway. Trust me there are plenty of ways to get that drum off without destroying the drum.
Don't those T retainer clips usually push through the slot if rotated 90°?
The wave thing is legit, some days we have duplicates of vehicle make and models back to back.When this happens im just sitting there scratching my head. What are the odds
We've seen your welding. Looking forward to the welding up of the rotor, and the three-part series where you grind it down, true it up, and balance it. (Sorry, being silly now.)
@Nigel Cox Then spray protective coat and sell on eBay as fully refurbished by Rainman Ray , with a 12 month FACTORY WARRANTY ! Sorry Ray , some Brit Aussie humour snuck out .
It's so crazy how it really does come in waves, with everything
Love how you always work through frustrating jobs!
Professionalism at its finest. Patience, focus, applied skill, flexing experience and being nice to your co-workers... checking the ego at the door
Door hinge sticking is a known issue. OEM part has an alloy bushing that corrodes between the pin and the hinge. After removing the door (had to use a jack/2x4 under the door to force some upward pressure), I had to chisel out the alloy bushing (using a small screwdriver). There are 3rd party plastic delrin hinges that can be used to avoid this problem.
There's a retaining bolt on the bottom of the hinge pin, I believe it's a T-45 or T-50. Can you try backing that bolt out to relieve tension on the hinge? If it's still stuck due to corrosion, at least then you would have access to the hinge pin to tap on it with a punch and hammer. I'm curious to see what ended up happening with that. Keep up the good work!
Shut up
It looks like she scrapped something the paint on those hinges is rubbed off and crumbling I can’t stand people that can’t drive then get upset when it comes time to fix their mistake….
Pathetic.
@@hondaveetc82 calm down little guy don’t be upset you drive a civic.
T-50 the new JL’s say it on the hinge and they come with it in the glove box. The Honda guy is just mad he can’t take his doors off that easy.
@@FollowingtheCliffNotes don't lean on a Honda door!
Over all, i think that this was one of your best to details performance video, the cleaning of the parts etc
Ray. Good as always. What happened to the door hinges?
I would hazard to guess that they had to be ordered and the customer did not want to wait.
10:12 As we know, everything is a hammer unless it is a screwdriver. Then its a prybar. Great work applying that principle.
Put the broken rotor up front for customers to view and something to show them when a tech is having a rough time and taking longer than expected! Just like a tire shop has the container of objects found in tires!
Many years ago I arrived at my sisters to find my BiL trying to get a front disc off his Toyota van (UK, Hiace?) that was rusted on solid. I suggested the trick of using an angle grinder to put a notch in the rim then splitting it with a cold chisel and went inside. A few minutes later BiL came in with the disc in two parts - apparently he'd been working on it for half an hour before I arrived.
The drivers side was a bugger that's for sure. It did make for entertaining video as it broke apart. Perhaps you could get the sales people to give a hand if they are that keen to check up on you lol. Make sure you have the bandaids on hand when they blister up or bash their knuckles or get their clothes dirty.🤣🤣🤣
Little tip from the north, a light spritz of WLG on the hub goes a long way for preventing the rotor seizing on like that. Guy probably goes to the beach frequently and the salt water causes the corrosion.
Had a customer come in with the same issues on his jeep hinges and have seen rapid rusting on other 4wd vehicles as well.
I always try tell the customers that it may look cool to ride around with mud covering your vehicle but by not washing it thoroughly after going off-roading, you're leaving a sometimes low ph (acidic) and salty substance on your vehicle that's oxidizing the crap out of it
Left a 5 Star Rating for the Company that Ray Works for. I So do wish i lived close so that Ray could work on my Vehicles
Once upon the time, when I was working on coaches, I had to use an angle grinder to split a totally seized brake drum. The brake camshaft had over rotated and the brake was totally jammed. The wrecker had already uninstalled the adjusters and had tried to get the camshaft moving by "gently tapping" the camshaft with a big sledgehammer. The driver had told him that the bake drum had been red hot. Created a very tight tolerance when it cooled down.
I have seen plenty of brake cams flipped over, but nothing like that. There was that time a trailer got parked on top of some tar plugs and jammed everything up so bad I had to remove the axle nuts and drive it in a left hand circle until the hub came off.
My jeep is older than that, and I never had to deal with a rusted-over hinge...But Im not in Florida...lol... but I would have tried to remove the middle drop hinge, tried to free it up and clean it, then re-adjusted... not saying you're not doing a great job...you are... this has become my favorite channel...keep up the great work!
Ray, may I make a suggestion? We have seen a rash of aftermarket brake caliper slide pins coming from the factory with an inadequate amount of lubrication, meaning a very small amount or none at all. I have a friend that works at a Raybestos facility he said the same thing, we always remove the caliper slide pins and wipe them down and apply high temp silicone brake grease to the pins now. This negates the return from the customer stating you just did my brakes but they aren't working quite right, and you finding out the caliper is hanging up in the slides. we had to warranty 4 sets of brake pads on a few cars that came into the shop before they gave the job to me and I found the dry slide pins to be the problem. I felt a bit like Shurlock Homes. My boss yelled at the whole shop "Why the F*ck did you guys not find this shit ?" then he put me on the spot by yelling out "Good Job Tracy, and thank you for finding out what these idiots could not!" Then he said in a loud voice " I know someone is getting a paycheck this week" the guys gave me shit for 4 weeks about it, and I just kept saying "just trying to do my part, to keep you idiot's jobs!"
It's because the of the largest greese factories burned down, my work will have a grease shortage for nearly 6 months.
@@dustin3700 Are you shiting me buddy, is there like only one grease factory in the USA or the world? Lol I think not, tell those fools to stop smoking on their lunch breaks, like the fireworks factories have done.. Lmao 🤣
@@tracysellman1562 when all the grease factories are down, just grab the butter from the fridge in the employee lounge.
Who is Shurlock Homes?
Good job Sherlock , er I mean tracy
I'm in Wisconsin with all the salt we coat the axle in antiseize I've had to torch off rotors in the past.
let them wait!!!! If they don''t know you are a great mechanic by now....you need to go somewhere they appreciate your skills and expertise.
Naw. They bought a Jeep. Automatically that's x2 for repair times. x3 for replacing anything.
A little tip I have learned and most will think it is a little sketchy. When I am replacing that type of rotor with the parking brake inside I will drive the car at low speeds and slowly engage the parking brake and let the friction clean the rusty crap. If you are a Adrenalin junky do it at 60 mph on a wet road.
I've never seen anyone take off the top of a rotor like that i've been stuck like that plenty of times but my sledgehammer never cracked it like that. Didn't know it was that brittle.
It is made from cast iron, so they are inherently more brittle than other metals or composite materials. Continual bashing will break it as you saw in the video.
@@robpeabo509 i've just been lucky i guess never had to bash it that hard...
Ray my man. As per usual your knowledge and skill has been impeccable. In have sat and watched every video of yours and I have learned so much. Living along the coast of Donegal in Ireland jobs like that can cause alot of the rusty problems from the sea air but little tips from yourself shall make things just that much simpler. Keep up the great work my man. Shout out from the the Emerald Isle. "Go raibh maith agat" oh yea "Click"
Good to know the Irish Gaelic… prolly about half the people posting here (including your truly) are Scotch-Irish.
I've always found an adjuster on the rear brakes that allow them to be backed off enough to pass any rust lip.
He said these ones were seized
Is not a loud noise when the engine revs, is music, salutes from Italy and i'm new in this channel
SPOILER ALERT: Ray throws in the towel at the 5:15 mark!! There was lots of flavor in the cheap wangler! I owed 2 jeeps and I have to say their quality just isnt there anymore
I laughed when you sounded like me saying “Give it back!” when your wrench got stuck.
I swear too much whilst working on these types of frustrating problems to be on a video. Good job sir!
I swear to much when not working on something like this. Even when I'm trying to be polite I tend to shock those who don't know me, so I do my best to never get caught on camera or it will probably end up on the web and make the meme circuit.
I'm impressed by the restraint Ray shows in his videos, though there's been the occasional bleep.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 30 years ago
I got sent home one time for getting pissed off at a car. Glad I don't have to wrench anymore.
@@jameswatkins29 I'm a computer tech. One time I worked on a customers computer for more than a day diagnosing and fixing a intermittent problem. Only for the computer to crash the moment the customer came through the door. I head butted a table so hard it cracked right down the middle scaring the customer. It was the table or the machine. I chose the table as smashing the machine could have damaged the HDD's...
I got a serious headache and got to sit down and have a long talk with the boss.
First thing to try. If the car has the old manual lever emergency break. Run the car round the block with the emergency brake part way on . Do not release the brake lever until right before you take the drum(s) off.
or
Grind the heads off the shoe retaining pins. Obviously will need new pins.
or
If that cant be done then grind a deep groove from the edge of the disc to the drum and as much of the drum as you can cut withiout damaging the studs or hub. Repeat the cut on the opposite side and bash it with a hammer (or hammer and chisel).
Rotor splits and falls off.
The three above methods saves damaging the wheel studs.
On the new drum grind the edge of the drum area just a little bit to make sure water runs off and a lip does not form due to wear.
Did you put new shoes on or rough up the surface of the old shoes with sandpaper to remove any glaze caused by the corrosion.
Reeeeeee
Those wheel bearing took a pounding.
I had a 1940 Chevy car once and I was re-doing the brakes and rear drums wouldn’t come off so I put a huge gear puller on the drum and it bent everything inside the drum because the shoes were stuck to the drum from a deep groove in the drum. Then no matter what I did the drum wouldn’t go on because what the shoes attached to was all bent up. I ended up selling the car because the transmission was also bad and the torque tube rear end would have to be changed out to put a different transmission in it. I believe the car was involved in the Mississippi River flood many years ago as the car was originally in Vicksburg,Ms by the river. I sold the car to a guy who wanted to put a SBC in it and a TH350 and a different rear end. I didn’t want to go down that rabbit hole, but now many years later I bought a 1948 Frazer for $220 so I’ll be going through the fixing up an antique automobile again. I didn’t want the scrap man to buy the car at auction because it was very solid with minimal rust.
Just wondering knowing how loose lug nuts on rear wheels were, did you check the fronts. I hope so.
And then he's responsible for the front tires too. You don't touch stuff the customer doesn't approve.
@@brianwilson6159 Yes but you report your findings and ask if they would like them checked. You would feel alright sending them on there way knowing that front lugs were that lose. Shame on you
Most shops do a full inspection for the up charge..
I don't think the corrosion caused the set point to be slightly open as you said. The owner pulled hard and bent the hinges to that position. GREAT VIDEO, Ray. Thanks.
Just amazed at how much rust is under these newer Jeeps. I live in the swamps, and the cars here aren't that bad. Has to be the salt in the air... or maybe Chrysler/Fiat paint prep just sucks.
I was wondering if they drive them on the beaches?
Up here in the frozen north, Jeeps invariably rot out. An old timer told me that Jeep put wash out holes in the frame, so that owners can clean out the dirt and junk that builds up. The only problem is that it makes a perfect entry point for salt, abrasives and wasps. I don't know if the guy was telling me the truth, but it makes sense.
Or maybe the owners just suck at preventative maintenance by not flushing the underside with clear water after playing in the water at the beach.
Is there even paint on most of the rusty parts? Body panels typically get decent paint systems and prep. But if it isn't visible, odds are any paint is a super light 'new appearance' at best, with the color gone in months.
Braking rotors in half was an everyday event at Ford when they made excursions except it was the front ones. Just wiz a groove across surface and a couple hits.
The amount of money this man spends on brake kleen but doesn't own PB blaster astounds me.
However, I'm more blown away by a customer agreeing to pay for caliper service but declining fluid exchange. That fluid was nasty lol.
It's a good thing they came in since everything was unscrewing itself except the hinges !
Still amazes me that with all the latest technology we seem to have, that they are still building vehicles that are being ate up by salt. When are they going to make something impervious to salt so vehicles literally don't rust apart? We can put rovers on Mars, but can't stop rusty vehicles here on Earth! Thumbs Up!
@Yippee Skippy Undercoating, especially manufacturers' undercoating can often be as bad as causing corrosion as it is at preventing it, because during application small air pockets are left in the coating which breeds rust like rabbits.
Save up all your old oils and spray that on the underside of vehicles every 2-3 years - dust collects on it during dry months but it always stops water and salt getting to the metal in the first place,
Gary, manufacturers will NEVER do that. Why? Because of planned obsolescence. The world's economy is primarily driven by that. Most devices, mechanical and/or electronic, have a "planned" lifetime of 5 yrs. Some are now even 3 or even 2 yrs. If the "big" companies have their way, they'd totally eliminate "right to repair" by device owners. Meaning, only factory "certified" or "dealer" mechanics/technicians will be LEGALLY able to work on anything you own. Their next step would be to eliminate ownership of ANYTHING. Lease/rent would be their solution for ALL things. In that "world", you wouldn't own anything, not even the literal clothes you're wearing. Going down that slippery slope, ownership of people would be the next step. Don't believe that this could happen? Look at the Chinese and (to a lesser extent) Japanese manufacturer "models". They don't literally own their employees, but.... if you get ousted from the "plant" or industry, good luck even being able to buy food... because in a lot of instances, the "company" owns the local grocery stores and only sell to "employees". Your only recourse is to buy from the black market. But how can you buy from them if you don't have a job? Catch 22.
Metals rust. There is effectively nothing that can be done to totally prevent it, short of complete isolation from the oxygen in the atmosphere. Let's not even talk about water and salt, which exacerbate the problem.
So sure, we CAN greatly increase time before rust becomes an issue, but it costs money. Lots and lots of money. In order to get adequate strength, simple cheap plastic is usually not enough. Carbon fiber reinforced plastic can do the job, but at significant cost (several times that of steel, once all costs are considered). Or expensive coatings can be used on the steel, but those all include their own concerns on cost, bondability, cross contamination, etc. And none are permanent, even the best prepared and most expensive. Once a coating is breached (scratched, chipped, otherwise exposing the base metal) they often act as basins, trapping water against the metal, further encouraging rust.
So yes, we CAN do a much better job removing rust. But what are you willing to pay for it? Would you pay double to have the rusting parts of your car last twice as long? Remember, mechanical wear still happens. Someone in a rust state might really consider it. But in a southern state? Nobody would pay to have a car body outlive every mechanical, electrical or electronic part.
Of course, we could send the vehicles to Mars, where there is virtually no oxygen, no free water, and definately no salt on roads.
Because changing Physics is kinda hard. Sure you can coat it but the coat will be damaged and then rust will start. Sure, you can use other metals to build your car, but that will cost a lot more.
A buddy gave me a call, asking for help with the rear brakes in his Civic. When I get there, him and his neighbor are banging on the drum, the removal screws didn't help, it was locked friggin solid. I glanced down to watch for a few seconds, thought to myself "this really isn't happening" before glancing in the car. Yup, parking brake was set.
Just wondering, were the front lugs also loose? Would that be something you check for safety sake before test drive?
Yes inquiring minds want to know
Seeing how he normally operates I assume he did verify them, but maybe we will never know.
Was wondering this exact thing...
not his problem. he can do visual checks on stuff. as soon as they see him touch stuff that is not on the job list he can be held reliable and face fake accusations like" front wheels came off a month after you touched them or front brakes acting up all kinda bs claims.
alot of hustling customers outthere sadly.
ray is lucky that he films alot. give him good evidence to counter claims with.
alot of mechanics is not that lucky.
if you visually find other errors you can inform the customer and then its up to them to make the call.
@@MrLarsgren Disagree. Once the loose lugs were found on the rear, the fronts should be checked before any test drive. Otherwise wheel comes off and it's a lawsuit "You had found loose lugs on the rear tires. Yet you failed to check the front lugs before driving the vehicle. Said front tire injured my client when it came free from the vehicle." You see the problem?
With the hinges, there's a nut on the bottom you can remove, then use a center punch and whack up the pole thingy. Once out, you can clean it up, grease it and put it all together and it should work. On the rotor, use an air powered air hammer and just vibrate the crap out of it. Maybe will work, maybe not, but less work than whacking with a hammer.
Did I miss something or didn't you free up the hand brake adjuster before fitting the new disk and callipers .
These videos are for entertainment purposes, not lessons on how to do a complete brake job. Not everything is recorded.
Your right about things happening in waves. In the disaster restoration buissnes we get waves of fires, floods etc.
Great video as usual.
REEEEEEEEE......I work on a lot of jeeps. The adjuster is easily accessible with a regular screw driver. Your excuse for not backing the shoes off first seems very silly to an experienced professional. Come on Ray you're better than that.
Ray, you've got an idiot to pin^^^
@@HuntersMoon78 Clearly you've never worked on a jeep before. Otherwise you would know exactly what I'm talking about.
Can’t do it, he said reeeeeee
The hole for the adjuster was behind the caliper brackets, couldn’t get it
@@RainmanRaysRepairs I'm not being a dick but once you take the bracket off the adjuster hole is right in your face. If the adjuster is seized then another method is to drive it on the lift with the parking brake engaged a little bit. I work in NY so this is how every rear brake job on a jeep goes. I think Eric O. gave that tip on driving the vehicle with the parking brake engaged a little to help in one of his videos. Try it next time. Thanks for the entertainment, it made for a good video.
Saw a mechanic beating on the brake drums on my Tacoma. He managed to crack at least one of them and lost his job that day. The guy in parts who tried to blame me for aftermarket parts was reprimanded. Two new drums later, I was informed that the entire bill was covered\My money was no good there. Toyota in Killeen... they absolutely did the right thing, the management was great about it.
All that impact could have damaged the bearing. Could have zip wheeled the rotor hub in less time.
It's nice to know there's always someone who with hindsight knows how to do the job better than the techs.
@@unclegreybeard3969 When it comes to wrenching, you can guarantee that no matter how experienced the tech in the video is or what procedure they're doing, there will ALWAYS be people in the comments saying "You're doing it wrong!"
Why don’t you make a channel genius?
It makes sense to crack each bolt but you are correct to remove the bottom one first to reduce the chance of damage.
I just did a full brake and rotor job on our Buick Enclave... getting the rotors off was the hardest part... those things had never been changed from what I could tell. Had to get out the thor hammer to get them to budge.
I was not surprised with the performance of the 1/4" impact on the lugnuts. I often use my 1/4" to remove wheels. I set it on 3 and they always come off. When installing I set it on 1 and finish up with the torquelator.
I’ve struggled with rear rotors before but never considered attempting to shatter the rotor. They are cast.....so it makes sense....and works. Thanks again Ray. Dave in Omaha
Seen a hand full of your videos now. I love the throwbacks to AvE. I suspected he had some influence on you. The first time I saw a text reference in the video confirmed it.
Keep up the good work.
He's a smart dude who knows his stuff.
n I have had epic struggles with stuck brake linings .. never had to break the drum / disc to remove .. Having completed a super back to new brake job a liberal spray all around the chassis with rust proofer would have put the icing on the cake .
Haha I watched this rembering the pain I had replacing my rear brakes and rotors on my jeep. Alot of prying and hammering back and forth.
People from up north coming down to FL for winter relief, and giving you a challenge and no relief.
Ahhhh.. Old drum brakes... Main or just parking.. always gives me some satisfaction and butterflies in my stomach before going to work on it.
Usually I just whack it mad until it comes off naturally or by braking/bending shoe holding springs/pins/shims, which are to be replaced with new or bended back, but then one time had that Peogeot 106... 2kg hammer wasnt enough, then 6kg of pure mallet wasnt enough, but also was too much to be able to brake or bend the axle/suspension arm or brake of the bearing axis. Had to cut the whole drum to pieces to prevent it happening.
It really is relieving to find a manual adjuster that is not stuck and adjustable via a hole in a drum or an automatic adjuster that has been stuck for a long time and now the shoes have a lot of freedom. When you finally take it off, you always fell like 90% job done :D