Physics of Wobbles and What to Do About Them
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Wobbles on an electric unicycle can be quite scary. We need to understand how they occur so we can better prevent them.
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I stay relatively low in my riding stance. When I feel a wobble coming up, I lift my weight up a little higher and then drop into a new stance. Some of my worst wobbles have been from braking though, which is why it's crucial to practice emergency braking. Thanks for the video!
This is one of the reasons why I love seated riding on my fast rides. Not only am I streamlined but I have never gotten any wobbles with seated riding. The grip bars on my V13 are an added plus when I really need to do rapid braking.
I find that the best thing to do when scary wobbles appear is not to panic, and not to lean back and brake(your first instinct) since that makes it worse! Just accept them, adjust your posture, increase speed, carve a little and keep going! I've gotten wobbles at 40mph and this has saved me always.
my experience as well
I have heard other riders say that speeding up quells the wobbles and that makes sense. I have never tried that technique. I find the deep squatting brake and seated riding works well for me.
Ya panicking never helps.
Carving prevents wobbles completely. You can cut mild wobbles by braking using only one brake pad, moderate wobbles by dropping in an extremely low squat, hard wobbles by squatting + digging one foot in the plates whilst turning but it's pretty hard to execute so the best is def prevention.
Those are great techniques and have tried them too. I found that seated riding totally prevents wobbles as well as making me less fatigued. Hence, most of my long, high speed rides are usually seated.
@@AdamU1016 Seated riding stresses me out too much when commuting. I feel like I don't see far enough and the absurd amount of potholes in my city doesn't help. I find seated riding considerably more dangerous and the comfort gain isn't worth the loss of agility, responsiveness and braking power in case of emergency.
You mean offesnsive evasion?
It was definitely the biggest hurdle to get over when I was new and starting to go over 20 mph. It’s hard when you’re not confident yet to just relax and carve. I did not find braking to be a good solution when I was first starting. Works fine now, but when you’re new hard braking is probably the thing you’re weakest at. Great video!
Thanks! Yeah one of the things I mentioned about is not rushing to be a Pro is so true. One of my friends recently learned the EUC and within a month he was going close to 30 mph. He got the wobbles and didn’t know how to deal with it. I told him not to rush to be a Pro. He finally listened but found out the lesson a little too late. He has fully healed now and is doing well. He still loves the EUC though and wants to keep riding the wheel. That wobble he had inspired this video.
This video really helped with my euc riding!! I kept thinking I needed my feet exactly parallel but it makes more sense to be asymmetrical and I completely agree about going into a carve when the wobbles start. I’m a Onewheel rider as well and have seen too many people just jump on and try to go fast before learning to carve and then it gets ugly and sometimes bloody! Great video, thank you!
Very informed,videos like this should be pinned on the EUC forums. I usually carve the wobble out as well as accelerating a bit. Seated riding definitely helps and never panic.May I ask about your impressions on the v13,compared to the EX30?
Thanks 😊
Thanks for the kind words. I owned a Nikola before and really had a blast riding that wheel. Since it was a Gotway wheel, I waited a year and a half when the model came out so that the wheel would go through its trials and tribulations and modifications before I finally bought the Nikola. The Nikola was the best wheel I ever owned before the V13. Having said that, I would wait at least a year and let time solve the issues for the EX30. Based on what other riders have said, it seems like a great wheel. Powerful, fast, lots of torque and better range than the V13.
I have never owned an InMotion before. I decided to choose the V13 based on the specs of dual hall sensors, high cutoff speed, advanced BMS, great waterproofing, and kickass design. Yes the V13 is a new wheel but because InMotion is stringent on QC and uses premium materials, I picked the V13 as my next new wheel. So far I am loving this beast.
The weight of the V13 is pretty heavy so the hardest part is starting the ride. Braking is quite responsive and requires more of a squatting technique to prevent wobbles. Once I am in motion, riding and maneuvering is similar to my Nikola. I feel very reassured and stable when I am going 40 plus mph. I love all the bells and whistles on the InMotion app too. I highly recommend the V13.
Definitely appreciate the video, explanations and advice. I have prevented EUC wobbles in two different ways, depending upon situation. The easiest way to get rid of a wobble is to accelerate right when it begins, which sounds counter intuitive, but has worked for me like magic. But if one needs to stop, and a wobble begins? I've had success digging one leg into side of wheel and brake/turning at the same time. The wheel continues to fuss through this process, but I've done it and stayed on the wheel.
When a wobble begins, if I have braked (lean) straight backwards, that has magnified the wobble - every time. I have come off the wheel as a result of this, before I started trying different solutions.
I think the best advice is to ride to a comfort level. I know when I started riding, I could always feel when I was going too fast, and not in comfortable control. Very good advice to not be in a hurry to be a pro rider. One needs time, experience and practice on the wheel to improve.
I have never tried accelerating to dispel a wobble. My first instinct for a minor wobble is to just do seated riding. The wobble goes away. Brake/ turning at the same time works well for me too. I have seen too many new riders buy a really fast wheel and within a few days of learning they are trying to get close to max speed already. Most of the time they end up crashing. It took me years to be able to comfortably ride at fast speed not by choice but simply because the EUCs were not as fast as they are now. Now with so many choices of fast, powerful wheels, it is tempting for newbies to get the latest and greatest. Perfect recipe for disaster.
@@AdamU1016 that's facts. I was that rider on my 2nd wheel, a Gotway MSX. Within the first week, I had clocked a top speed of 46mph (down wind, down hill), and was likely riding through the 80% power beeps screaming 5/sec (not smart). Not long after that I had a nasty wobble crash, falling off the back of the wheel (much like the example in your video, the guy on the Nicola). Except at higher speed. Fully geared, but the fall knocked the wind out of me, and I am super lucky it wasn't worse. That crash completely changed everything about my riding approach. First, only ride to a comfort level, not beyond (experience increases ability and comfort at speed) And I demanded (from myself) the ability to deal with wobbles. I still think wobble crashes can happen to any rider, at any skill level - but having that intuitive/practiced knowledge to survive/beat the wobble is crucial. (edit: guess my point is I have arrived at a better approach via making early mistakes, and trying to learn from them)
Thanks for the video. The tire also playes a huge role. Street tires are usually more prone to wobbles, because they react and therefore counter react faster/harder. I (sadly lol) never had any wobbles ever, neither on V8 nor S22 (10k km). So i cant teach others how to deal with them. All people that i teached how to ride, get wobbles.
Great to know about those tires. I am actually quite happy with my stock V13 knobby tires and don’t intend to switch to street tires.
@@AdamU1016 yea the v13 seems to be an exception. You can watch Kujis Sherman video, where he compares the street with the nobby tire. He shows on multiple occasions that the street tire is way more wobbly and if you think about it with your explanation, it makes sense
Sounds to me you just have the skills not to get wobbles as in muscle memory etc. You cant teach others muscle memory but guide them to develop it for themselves.
@@pacochawa2746 yea I'm trying. 3ppl in the last 2 weeks, all of them wobble above 30kmh and when breaking. But I noticed that it's just practice, muscle memory etc. And technice like symmetrical position, unsymmetrical acceleration and how to properly break.
The worst thing you can do is panic, you are so right about that.
Ya but its natural to panic. Just learn to relax so you can think and react better.
@@pacochawa2746 Well doing breaking drills helped, cause I would get a wobble when breaking.
I have about 9000 km under my belt riding EUC's. Now I ride the Begode Master V2 and rarely do i get wobles since i keep carving ever slightly all the time but if i do get a starting woble, what works best for me is to stand up straight, lock my knees and become as stiff as possible and right away the woble stops. Works for me anyway.
I never heard of this stand up straight, lock the knees technique before. Great for you that it works! 💪🏼
@@AdamU1016 try it once if you ever get wobble and let us know.
@guyjemus2706 I just got a v14 as my first wheel and have had 2 wobbles so far after riding for 4 days. I havnt done over 16mph yet because I'm taking my time but I'll try thid method when it happens again .thanks!
Short quick carving motions while braking greatly reduces brake wobbles. Good info.
Great Video, Sir! I love the way explained the wobble theory and intervention to attack the root cause! Thanks!
I always learn something new with your videos. Thanks!
Thanks Bro. I also learn new things from your videos.
I'm glad you got me thinking about this. There are two videos I've seen that I think, together, point to what's going on. (I'm using your comment section to think through my own version here, hope you don't mind.)
I won't post the links because I know youtube deletes them 🙄. The first is "Most People Don't Know How Bikes Work" by Veritasium. It shows that the whole gyroscope thing is mostly a myth. In reality, bicycle and motorcycle balance is mostly achieved through subtle countersteering-- they both automatically turn in the direction you're falling, keeping you upright. (And that's why it's easier to balance at speed.) Unicycles are similar.
The second video is this one about motorcycle wobbles. "Dunlop Wobble & Weave". It shows that motorcycle wobbles are a result of a cycle of mechanical forces, often from the suspension shifting around. There should be some similar cycle happening on unicycles.
So here's what I'm thinking: 1) The wheel gets misaligned with your direction of travel somehow. Maybe you briefly went airborne after hitting a bump and landed a bit sideways. Maybe while braking you pull the wheel off to the side a bit. 2) If the wheel is pointed at an angle compared to the EUC's direction of travel, the ground itself will yank the wheel around in an awkward curve. If the wheel is pointed right, it'll yank to the left. If pointed left, it'll yank to the right. 3) Under the right conditions this cycle can perpetuate itself. 4) This can explain why carving helps, because the wobble requires the symmetrical yanking from both sides. Pushing to one side will dampen the yanks on that side and end the cycle. So according to this theory, it's more about turning actually, and carving happens to be an effective series of turns.
Maybe I should write this up somewhere...
Oh yeah, I just tested this out and it's 100% what the wobbles are. You can literally push an EUC around with the wheel starting at an angle and get the exact wobble behavior even just at walking speed 🤯
Carving truly is an effecting wobble damper. By making one side asymmetrical, the resonance can be killed since the vibration travel will respond differently. Similar to having more foot pressure on one side, the resonant effect will behave differently hence nipping it in the bud.
Great video it's nice to hear terminology being applied to what's happening to me and my wheel when I ride.
You’re awesome, thank you for the advice!
Thanks for the info! I wonder why breaking induces wobbles. It reminds me of when a car and trailer wobbles when the weight distibution is too far back, but I am not sure if the physics are the same with unicycles.
How I mitigate a wobble is by carving or turning to one side which holds true to your theory I think.
With car and trailer combo more variables come into play to cause wobbles. However, the same principles will still come into play when a car makes a rapid turn, that will translate into a whip-like momentum to cause the trailer’s angle of momentum to also change. The wheels on both car and trailer then go into a harmonic pendulum like oscillation. The wobbles on the car will affect the wobbles on the trailer. It goes back and forth in a snake like wave with each vehicle trying to slowly harmonize. However, because the snake like wiggle keeps going back and forth between the two vehicles, the process of eventually reaching a harmonious synchrony will take longer.
Braking induces wobbles because at high speed, the quick braking will cause a change in angular momentum and hence the tire angle relative to the ground will become affected. That sets up an oscillation effect and makes the rider try to correct the wobble but instead makes it worse through over correction.
I would then use a squatted braking technique or do seated riding to slow down the momentum, dampen the resonance as well as lower my center of gravity.
Please look at the explanation starting at 3:00 when I talk about the bicycle wheel being suspended on one axle. As the wheel spins due to torque applied, the angular momentum increases at an angle perpendicular to the direction of torque. When braking is applied, the angle of momentum is decreased hence the angle of the EUC wheel relative to the ground is also affected. Resonance or wobbling then occurs and the rider tries to correct it but then actually makes the resonance worse. That wheel suspended by one axle demo really drives the message home.
Took a nice spill (wobbles). Thanks for this. Going to lower my center of gravity!
It took five seconds to explain the cause at 4:33.
The physics stuff can precipitate a rider response, but it's the response that makes the wobble.
Good stuff Adam. Most people miss this.
Confident riders are less likely to over correct and less likely to suffer a wobbles.
Soo in short people just need to relax and let er buck; like a cowboy.
Five seconds is too short and wouldn’t make too much of a video. 😂
Yeah just being relaxed does help tremendously. Squatted braking helps it even more.
Thanks for the kind words.
Great video thank's Adam, Jérôme from France
I usually just relax my legs and bend knees, trying to avoid the upper part of the wheel constantly hitting the inner side of my left and right leg (which I think increases the oscillation). That usually kills the wobble and if not, at least make it non-worsening, so I can stop and remount on the wheel.
I have done that technique too and it works well. Most of the time now I just do seated riding and that really dampens the wobble.
Good explanation!
I'm like you in that i can ride seated just as good as i do standing up on an EUC. So far no wobbles!😁
Seated riding is a great skill that everyone should learn. My rides are so much more enjoyable and at fast speeds certainly more stable.
Enjoy your rides!
Thank you, Adam for the additional information on wobbles. Take care and ride safe
You’re welcome. Glad you liked the video. Have safe rides!
Great video! And the “thanks for watching” was perfectly timed 😂
Thanks! Yeah I finally got the timing just right this time. 😂
I was thrown off the wheel by wobble for the first time in my years on EUCs last week. It happend while riding downhill on asphalt when I got alarm beeps on my new sherman-s at 46 km/h. I panicked, started to brake, got wobbles, sticked to the rule "never bail out on wobbles", finally wobbles got so strong I didn't manage to stay on the wheel. Well, happy end this time. At least I got chance to test my protection gear which wokred really well.
Hope you weren’t too badly hurt from the fall. One of the reasons I learned seated riding was because of the wobbles on my Nikola. The angled pedals also were not comfortable for me. Seated riding definitely will kill those wobbles. Try also the deep squatted braking technique which also works well.
Have safe rides! .
Awesome content! Thanks
Nice one 👍
Hmm where Im at now going low bending knees causes more wobbles. I go straight leg and aparently the increased weight on the pedals stops the wobbles. But when I am high speed cornering left I dont get wobbles in the turn, mostly after the turn when it shoots me out and speed hits above my skill level. All this info is very helpfull. Everybody rides a bit different but the principals are same just apply them to your riding style and stance and skill level.
A way of dealing with wobbles is to put all of your weight on one leg
Yes that will certainly dampen effectively. I have never tried this technique though. I will try it out sometime.
I 'favour' a foot to avoid wobbles.
This is a great video you covered the topic very well I love your content
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you liked the video. Have safe rides!
Thanks, Adam. Some great advice, especially for new riders. I copied my style of riding from U-Stride, who said that he never gets wobbles.
You’re welcome. Jedediah is a great source for preventing wobbles. His riding style definitely is a wobble killer. Have safe rides!
I think it all has to do with wheelbase versus overall weight versus distribution. A car with four tires planted at the sides evenly distributed to carry the weight of the vessel will not get wobbles, but a car with only one wheel in the center will.
In the example I showed in the video, a speeding car making a quick turn and then trying to go back to the original direction of travel did lead to a wobble and loss of control. The huge mass of the vehicle as well as the change in direction of speed was enough of a huge momentum change to precipitate a wobble. I do agree a 4 wheeled vehicle vs a single wheeled vehicle is less likely to get a wobble but certainly not an impossibility.
As some others have said, Accelerate when you get wobbles and then you can deaccelerate in a controlled manner when the wobbles have stopped.
i miss the wobbles
I have never tried accelerating but I am curious to try it out. I usually just do seated riding and the wobbles just go away.
A great video, thanks for analyzing it. I can't help but feel in addition to the things you mentioned there is an issue of the rake and trail on an EUC
It is extremely difficult to get a wobbles on a bicycle because a bicycle has built-in rake and trail into the front forks, yet shopping carts always have wobbles because they have negative rake and trail, and EUCs fall somewhere in the middle - they have no rake and no trail which makes them more likely to wobble than a bicycle but less likely to wobble then a shopping cart wheel.
Thanks for the kind words. Other than being so reliant on the tech of the gyro and motherboard, the absence of stabilizers such as the rake angle and trail makes the EUC rider so prone to a faceplant. This is the reason why EUCers need to be so well geared when riding. Riding an EUC is more dangerous than a motorcycle but I don’t tell my wife that. Lol. This is why I stressed so much on the video “Don’t rush to be a pro”. An EUC rider needs lots of experience before attempting high speed riding. An EUC rider needs to really appreciate his own sense of body mechanics and enhanced proprioception to ride safely. Knowing all the techniques such as carving, wobble dampening techniques such as seated riding, feet pedal placement, braking techniques such as squatted braking or turning braking, tire pressure, etc. are really essential for an EUC rider to ride safely at high speed.
One of my friends who just recently learned the EUC a couple months ago tried riding at 30 mph on his Nikola and experienced wobbles which caused him to crash. He only had a helmet. I stressed so much on the full gear needed and “Don’t rush to be a Pro” mantra. He is healing well and has learned his lesson.
@@AdamU1016 Agreed 100% on your stress on gearing up. I'm always full face, armored motorcycle jacket, knee pads, etc, and have never crashed after 7 years and 10s of thousands of miles. I find it odd that beginners, and others, talk about crashing so much when learning and later. I don't crash on my motorcycles and don't crash my cars, ok, sometimes on the bicycle... but really, there is not reason for it.
After EUCs develop more towards performance vehicles than novelty toys, it will be technically possible to incorporate an anti-wobble mechanism in the design. Probably about 5 years away at the current growth rates. I believe anti-wobble/anti-lock brakes/skid-stabilization/power regeneration/storage and autonomous-driving are all currently possible but will require some investment capital to come to fruition. Until then, external proprioception needs time to develop, so “don’t rush the beginner phase of learning” is good advice. 😊
I agree with your prediction of technology finding a way in the near future to quell these wobbles without the rider having to do anything extra. It won’t be as challenging though but I look forward to it.
Skill will beat tech any day. Im all for anti cutout tech and antibrakelocking up or cutouts due to over braking. I will be doing it old school for a couple years, looking forward to safer rides for sure.
Awesome video
My wobbles are always downhill, and in the same streets. As if the pavement had anything to do with the wobbles. I have never had a wobble going up a steep hill. Gracias por tu video
You are probably anxious going downhill and then you tense up. The resonance then builds to a point that you notice the wobbles. You then try to correct it and overcompensates resulting in making the wobbles worse. Try to make small carving motions going down, do seated riding if you are able to, apply more foot pressure on one side of the wheel shell to dampen the wobble.
I told people a while ago, duct tape a shake weight to the front of your wheel, horizontally, and then you'll dampen out most of the wobble - same principle is used inside giant buildings to keep them from swaying too much, they hang a weight to naturally counter sideways movements of the structure. Get it as far forward as you can so that you're as aligned with the expected plane of oscillation.
Another tip would be to figure out how to "balance the tire" which in this context really means balance the whole motor assembly on its rotational axis, to keep down, you guessed it, sympathetic harmonic vibrations which precede full oscillation (the wobbles). I haven't tried this with a EUC "tire" yet but seems to me that when the motor is built, small misalignments that themselves are in spec can cause error stack up to even make not just some models but *particular* units to be more prone to precipitate vibrations at different speeds. I think it might need more than just a couple stick on tire weights to compensate for the mass that's misaligned to get it flying true at all speeds.
It's actually been a long while I've suspected the balancing/bearing tolerance/rigidity as being a main culprit but I can't really say anything is anything until I try both methods - but I'm pretty sure the shake weight one will work if it's placed in the right spot. High speed stand up scooters even have steering dampers now and compared to the demos without them they appear to do the job well.
Sounds like horrible advice, we still need to operate the wheel and a free moving weight will not help with that, buildings are stationary.
I wouldn’t put any extra weight for dampening reasons. Not only for aesthetics but dampening can be done via other means. For example, putting more foot pressure on one side to make the resonance behave differently, accelerating, putting more pedal pressure on one side, seated riding. In addition, that shake weight can be a flying projectile in a crash and cause injury to the rider or a pedestrian.
Scooters that have steering dampener's are basically a Band-Aid. Good scooters that are well designed and well-balanced don't need the Band-Aid and never get wobbles. As a rule of thumb, never buy a scooter that has a steering dampener. My scooter goes 50 miles an hour and it never wobbles.
Great essential content as always! Thanks for sharing !!
Thanks for this great information.
Best way not to wobble is to curve.🤘
Thanks brother!!🙏
You’re welcome. Carving is definitely a wobble killer and use it routinely.
Excellent video Dr Adam... love the examples you have here.. but it made me freak out at the same time.. but it shows the Occialtation you were talking about !...
my tips: have one side of your leg also touching the wheel side.. clamp down on both if you start to get some unwanted movements, and do like you say.. start carving to take out the noise..
not everybod stands perfectly on the pedals.. so i use one side of my legs to touch and it links me to the wheel and it helps control the vibrations.. but also helps that i ride a heavy wheel which helps maintain stablitly
Thanks, CT! Those are great techniques and will certainly quell the wobbles. My heavy V13 certainly is a big plus when I do fast riding. That stability at high speed is certainly quite reassuring.
I am a new rider. Only around 200 miles. I notice the only time that the wheel will start to wobble is when my legs start to get tired. I normally ride in 10 to 15 minute intervals while I am on my breaks at work and ride around the industrial park. I just started to take whey protein in order to help my muscles to grow because in the beginning my legs BURN. But now that I take whey protein after my rides my legs no longer burn but do get tired after 10-15 minutes of riding.
@@EUC_Senior It’s not uncommon to get wobbles when you first start out. Especially with the wheels being so much bigger and faster now. Fatigue definitely can precipitate a wobble. I get that too when my legs are sore.
Seated riding will quell those wobbles. I never had a wobble with seated riding.
Basically the more you ride the stronger and durable your legs will be. You will also learn so many tricks such as carving that can help prevent wobbles. Carving can be mini and doesn’t have to be wide.
Deep squatting to slow down as well as accelerating can also get rid of wobbles.
Just do more riding. You will get the hang of it.
You can not tell people not to panic. Its more effective to say stay as calm as you can. Like when a rock is falling dont say dont look up you say look down now! In emergency situations clear and simple directions work best in my experience.
Do not confuse reaction with response. It’s OK to panic as an emotional reaction. It is the immediate response that one can learn to control. Responding by panicking and bailing out of a wobble can cause injury. Responding appropriately by doing seated riding or a squatting technique is the proper thing to do.
Therefore, when I say “Don’t Panic” I mean to respond in a level headed and organized way vs. in a disordered, erratic way.
saving lives in and out of work...
Yes exaclty what Im looking for, lol not the wobbles but what to do...
very insightful, ty~!
This wobble has something to do with the tire.
I don’t ride an euc yet and it’s just because of the wobble.
But I had this problem happening on my car, yes that’s right, I owned a Suzuki Samurai and I bought some cheap non-quality tires, I must tell you the moment I hit 55mph that wobble was insane, my steering wheel was all over the place, I didn’t know then what this is so I went to the car shop to fix it, they inspected the car and I exchanged some parts but the wobble wouldn’t disappear no matter what I’ve done, until I changed the tires, now I have a second Suzuki Samurai, I bought it with descent tires but at 55mph I felt slight wobble, no so much than with the first Samurai but it was there, NOW, I bought a set of 4 brand new YOKOHAMA GEOLANDAR A/T, man, the Smurai rides smooth like a charm.
I think the tire must be correctly weighed (centred) like car tires are when mounted.
The rapid decrease that occurs when we slow down on the EUC slightly changes the direction of the wheel of travel. That small change in direction will initiate the wobble. When we try to quell it by purposely trying to balance out the asynchrony only worsens the wobble.
Lower psi will help decrease the wobble. However, with the EUC’s one wheel there are other ways to help decrease the wobbles.
Carving riding helps decrease the chance. Having your feet askew vs symmetrical will cause a mini carving when you ride.
Wobbles are more likely to happen when you slow down from a great speed. Ways to dissipate the wobble are a deep squat or do seated riding. Accelerating will also eliminate the wobbles.
I was going 55 mph on my electric scooter and I was going around a mild turn and the scooter started wobbling like crazy. I tapped on the accelerator which somehow corrected and realigned the scooter instantly. This isn't the first time that I fixed the wobble on an electric scooter by slightly tapping on the accelerator rather than using the brakes which will cause fishtailing and instant crash.
That was great that you got out of that wobble. Glad you’re
OK.
Can you do a vid on seated riding? Seated riding is very alien to me. Aerodynamics and all that seem good on paper but how do you start to feel comfortable in a safe way?
I actually did a couple of videos on seated riding. Check my latest one and good luck to you.
ua-cam.com/video/0n8_vNa8eiE/v-deo.html
very informative and this neighborhood looks dreamy. which state is it?
Thanks. This neighborhood is in NJ.
Angular momentum doesn't not keep an EUC upright, it only resists a change in tilt or twist angle (more on what this does in a bit); there is no self-correcting response. Camber effect due to the tire profile is what causes an EUC to turn in response to being tilted, and at sufficient speed, it will cause the EUC to self-correct and stay upright, usually around 8 mph or so, too slow for angular momentum to have much effect. The amount of turning reaction to tilt depends on tire parameters, a wider tire is more responsive than a narrow tire, a street tire is more responsive than a knobby tire. Angular momentum opposes the self-correcting response of camber, mostly acting as a damper to reduce or prevent over-correction. A wobble occurs when an EUC gets into an over-correcting cycle, and involves a combination of twisting and tilting of an EUC. Anything that dampens that motion will reduce and stop the wobble, such as contact with the upper pads ahead of where the feet are on the pedals, which provides some angular inertia to dampen wobbles. If using pedals only, lower tire pressure will prevent wobbles, but with lower pressure, don't drop off curbs or stairs since the rim may get damaged. Riding on a bumpy surface can trigger wobbles, especially when turning, and if on a bumpy surface, trying to carve will generally make a wobble worse. Hard braking tends to cause mild wobbles.
As for motorcycles, wobbles are also due to over-correction, but most modern motorcycles will auto-dampen wobbles. Older motorcycles prone to wobbles can use steering dampers (shocks) between frame and handle bars to act as a damper and prevent wobbles.
I appreciate the detailed response. You are right. I edited that line out.
In my example regarding balancing an EUC from standstill, I mentioned that it becomes easier to balance as the speed increases. As the speed increases, the angular momentum increases hence balancing becomes easier.
Regarding the motorcycle example in my video, the specific scenario was just after a wheelie is attempted and the front tire is making contact back to the ground. If the front tire is not exactly as straight as the rear tire when landing, the wobble occurs.
@@AdamU1016 - Similar to a bike but for different physics, once at sufficient speed, an EUC becomes self-balancing and a rider doesn't have to make any balancing corrections. A bike becomes self-balancing because the front tire steers into direction of lean. For a normal bike, this is because the front tire contact patch is behind where the virtually extended steering pivot axis intercepts the pavement, and the distance from the intercept point back to contact patch is called trail. A "two skate" bike can be stable due to this steering geometry with zero angular momentum). An EUC becomes self-balancing because the tires steers in the direction of tilt due to camber effect. When tilted, the inner edge of the contact patch has a smaller radius than the outer edge, similar to a section of a cone, and the tire tends to steer in a circular motion, mostly independent of speed, so if the rider starts to fall with neutral pressure on the pedals, the EUC will tilt in the direction of fall, and at sufficient speed, the resulting camber effect steering is self-correcting, keeping the EUC and rider vertical. The net contribution of angular momentum is to oppose any change in tilt or twisting (steering), and acts as a damper. At high speeds on a heavy EUC, the rider has to exert much more effort to tilt the EUC in order to turn. As for motorcycles doing wheelies and landing with the front tire slightly off, this happens all the time during the ILSE of MAN TT at 150+ mph, and although the bikes initially wobble, they will stop wobbling on their own, and the riders just ignore it. There are a lot of videos of ILSE of MAN.
I do appreciate your detailed explanations. In the clip I showed with the biker developing a severe wobble after landing the front tire, was it his inexperience that he wasn’t able to get out of the wobble or was his tire so out of alignment from the driving direction that he could not correct the wobble or something else? He certainly was probably going about 40-50 mph when he developed the wobble but could not control it. What techniques do the pro bike riders use to control their wobbles at speeds of 150 mph?
@@AdamU1016 - It's not technique, it is the design of the bike. In your clip, the most likely cause of the wobble was an aftermarket handlebar mounted fairing, with some chance that the combination of fairing and tire was the issue, but a handlebar mounted fairing is not a good idea. The two worst historical motorcycles with wobble issues due to poor design (too much flex) were the Royal Enfield Interceptor (650 cc four stroke twin), and the Kawasaki Mach IV (750 cc two stroke triple). To solve the issue, riders would put two steering dampers (shocks), between frame and handlebars, one for each side. High performance motorcycles since the 1990's are designed to recover from wobbles on their own without the rider having to do anything. ISLE of MANN is a 37.73 mile long loop on local two lane roads run at speeds up to a bit over 200 mph. The intersections have dips and crests that cause the bikes to wheelie if at full throttle, often getting some wobble when the front tire lands. As commented above, the riders learn to ignore the wobbles, because the bikes self-recover.
@@AdamU1016 - I set time stamp to an example of jump | wheelie induced wobble and self-recovery: ua-cam.com/video/805qei2oAeI/v-deo.html
My first speed wobbles tossed my off and snapped my ACL… I stopped riding. Wish I could have figured it out, I was really wanting to ride
Sorry to hear about your accident. Don’t let that mishap discourage you though. I have cracked my right 5th rib after a pedal clip and I got back on my wheel 6 weeks later. That’s when I started studying Parkour falls. I just took my accident as a learning lesson and adapted accordingly. Riding the wheel is my big stress reliever.
For me the squatting braking causes wobbles, and when I just shift my weight to the rear I find I brake without wobbles. Just I do need to train for emergency braking or atleast emergency evasions.
Just do what works well for you. I have never tried your technique but will try it out sometime.
we ride, we wobble, we fall
What doesn’t kill us will only make us stronger. 🤓😂
It's basically an imbalance starting to oscilate/resonance.
ur EUC riding doctor? i follow!
Thanks! 🙏🏼
My secret to forget wobbles : being cool and relax!
And avoid Ninebot one Z10 !!!
I agree that being relaxed helps quell the wobbles. I never tried the Z10. It looks really cool. Ninebot really nailed the design with that wheel.
How much of this information translates to high-speed eScooters?
With high speed escooters, you have that extra variable of a steering wheel and I am sure probably some dampers inherent in its design. High speed riding and a turning of the steering wheel could have enough of a momentum to cause wobbles similar to the clip with the skateboarder making a high speed turn.
⚡👌🏼👌🏼⚡
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Credit: Veritasium
I did at 2:39. It was actually a longer credit length but I had to do some after posting edits and it got cut off prematurely.
Monoshock has got to be better than dual shocks. The twin dual shocks are not perfectly equal.
A mono-shock would be great for enabling quick wheel changes but this is not a major contributor to the wobbles.
No real explanation.. pity. Veritasium has explained it in a way I understand fully.The movie is "The Bizarre Behavior of Rotating Bodies". There is a movie explaining wobbling of a car with trailer: "The truth about weight distribution and trailers...proven!"
Did you even watch the whole video? I setup the story for the Big Picture part at 7:39. In short, when the wheel experiences a sudden malorientation with the driving direction, the wheel starts to resonate or wobble. Situations such as sudden braking, rapid turning at high speed, motorcycle wheelie, etc. can make it happen. Depending on the level of skill of the rider or driver, it is possible to get out of that wobble.
I will check out the 2 videos you are referring to.
@@AdamU1016 Thanks for answering :) Yes, I have watched the whole movie. You wrote that changing direction/orientation causes the effect - but guy inside unicycle goes stright. Well, yes, you are right, but not strict (I personally would not understand this). The real reason is that mass outside disc, to the sides (in axle direction) by rotating is thrown away from axle more and more making wobbles more ane more till rotating by axle which is perpendicular to the old one. I t is like keeping the lego brick at the center of rotating record (the vinyl one) with increasing speed. The good and understandable description in the movie I have mentioned. But - scientist people did not understand this for quiet a long time.
@@jakubhusak1624 That’s a great synopsis in your own words and I appreciate that. I mentioned about that sudden change in wheel orientation different from the forward travel that initiates the wobble. Using proper technique such as decreasing the forward momentum by squatted braking will help the wheel reorient back to the driving direction. I am not even trying to make my video to the level of Veritasium channel but merely wanted to simplify what exactly happens during a wobble and what can be done to help prevent it.
I turn my toes outwards and it goes away.
Slow down to below 40 km/h....
There are better videos on wobbles. You actually didnt explain anything.
So you actually watched the whole video and came to that conclusion? I talked about the physics and ways to avoid and fix wobbles. That’s fine if that’s your opinion.