🛻🎥7.3 POWERSTROKE FAN CLUTCH/ WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT🟢🟡🔴🟢
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- THE HOW TO FAN CLUTCH AND WATER PUMP COMPLETE START TO FINNISH
NOW WITH BBE HD AUDIO AND ULTRA HD VIDEO
#fanclutch
#waterpump
#powerstroke
#whitesmoke
#7.3powerstroke
IRONTEK 2837 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
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Engine Cooling Radiator Fan Blade
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Gates 43546 Premium Engine Water Pump
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Water Pump Mounting Bolt Kit 94-03
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#powerstrokediesel
I put a piece of cardboard in between my radiator and fan when I did mine. That way if I did screw it up and smashed my radiator it wouldn't kill it. 😅
I used a small piece of cardboard and stuck my old bolts through in the shape of my water pump. That way when I got my new bolts I knew what went where. My dad taught me that a long time ago, thanks, dad!
I used the OEM pump though. Was afraid of all the things I read about aftermarket dying so soon. Gates was my other choice, happy to hear it would of been a decent choice.
10/10 on Riffraffs billet housing. I have that and their coolant filter kit. Love them both.
I went and got a new neck for the bottom anyways. Just didn't want to chance a leak and having to drain my coolant again. Cheap and you might as well!
The belt trick I did not do and it would of been great help. Especially the bumping the starter trick. Next time I'll have to remember that.
Thank you Clint, been doing my own work since 1958, and I make up a Technical Document on each topic that you video. I really appreciate the details that you provide, to help us "new owners" of the 7.3 to avoid mistakes. Especially when on the 3rd round, you found #4 and #5 bolts loose again. I numbered the bolts in order that you torqued them. I overlay numbers on Screenshots...
Good and Thanks this is why I started doing this There was such poor info out in youtube land
Oil the threads and the torque will hold. There will be no creep.
I tried everything to get the clutch fan off including buying the correct tool, jamming the pulley, air hammer, even heating. The only one that worked was hammering on a large adjustable wrench as shown above. Thank you.
New subscriber here with a neglected 96 7.3, pretty sure most of your vids will be relevant to what I'll be up against in the next few months.
Thank you sir.
Up to 385.300 miles on my powerstroke 7.3 she's purring like a kitten retired US Marine use to drive amphibious vechile had a 903 Cummings and the old Detroit diesal
I guess I was lucky with a low-impact approach. Already had belt off from power steering pump work. Slipped a piece of cardboard between fan and radiator. Used a Ford fan clutch wrench, which is like a skinny version of adjustable wrench. Held the pulley behind fan with an oil filter strap wrench. That thing held and wouldn't slip. Unscrewed, and lifted shroud and fan out together, as you recommend. The thing that I forgot was to disconnect miscellaneous hoses that were attached to bottom of fan shroud. Once that was done, it was done... 96 F250, almost 300K miles. No problem with fasteners' rust or sticking.
Thank you for the video! I changed my water pump, fan clutch, fan, radiator, trans cooler, and hoses and belt last summer with your help. Everything turned out great and still going strong.
Thank you that means a lot 🙏🛻
Thanks for all the info. I took notes during this water pump replacement vid. I’m getting ready to replace my water pump and fan clutch on my ‘94 7.3 power stroke. Of course I won’t be doing it “cab off”. Riffraff diesel was an extremely big help. Glad I found you on YouTub
Happy my electric DeWalt SDS Plus sized ELECTRIC hammer drill took that big fan nut off. I've been wondering this every time someone says use air hammer.
Thank you for your amazing videos, I watch all of them.
I'm finally doing the dreaded low pressure oil pump that has given me 3 to 5 seconds of no oil pressure at morning startup for years 😮
Only problem so far was the passenger side transmission cooler line wanted to stick to pipe and twist a little, got it worked free and about to pull out this radiator. Have a great day!
02:00 This was one of the main videos that helped guide me in the removal of my '02 7.3 PS fan. However, despite leaving the belt on, the nut would not be shocked loose. The pulley would slip every time, no matter what angle or force was used on the wrench. The nut was so tight that even a ratchet strap doubled around the pulley and locked to the truck fenders would not hold the pulley in place.
Most US auto parts chain stores will rent/loan a set of tools that contains a special, thin wrench that slides over the the 4 bolt heads of the pulley. One side of the wrench comes into contact with the left two bolts and the other side contacts the right two bolts. There's a half inch drive hole at the top of the wrench that lets you insert a breaker bar for additional leverage. Try to angle it so the wrench is near 11 o'clock. Get a big 18" adjustable wrench like the one in the video (less than $30 at HF) and set it to the tightest fitment on the nut and try to point it close to 12 o'clock. You don't have to be perfect on either but an hour space between the two is what worked for me.
Hold the breaker bar tightly with your left hand with a bit of clockwise pressure and with your right hand, hit the adjustable wrench counterclockwise with a BFH (Big F'ing Hammer). It may not come loose the first time but don't give up. Maybe invite a tall, strong friend to help. Good luck. Great video!
Man I love the way you explain things, like a knowledgeable friend of mine breaking things down in a way where he knows I can understand. I’ve watched a few videos and had to subscribe. Thanks for the service you do for us 7.3 guys
I like the fact that you repeat.it helps my memory.i do everything your way . and it's been working out for me
I got my last pump from riffraff. A Ford one. 190.00. Ford wanted 300 and change. And its the one without coolant filter. I already have one. Which I highly recommend. My last pump lasted 7yrs. Not 3yrs which I attribute to coolant filter. It grabs all that casting sand when they made engine block. I recommend SCA ADDITIVE FOR E99 AND EARLIER. I got my new bolts from riffraff too. Great video Clint. Once again.
Wow what a gem I have stumbled upon here! Good video, Good audio, and Good instructor. Thank you for taking your time to share your experience with us. Was able to get my water pump replaced and i would have never known to get new bolts or to replace the round gaskets for square! again well done keep up the good work!
Thumbs all UP! Just great...... work, knowledge, explanation, video and the what works over time experience sets you Sir apart..
I can confirm that the round gaskets are prone to leaking . 💯
Thanks Clint got my 1995 up and running thanks for your video's
excellent Thanks for watching
Invaluable! Pure channel gold!
Dang .... I miss the clever and funny intro and "you're still HERE ..??????
GO HOME ... LOLOL..!!!!!!!!
Trick... for the fan. Before putting the belt completely back on. Spin the waterpump pulley and male shaft into the fan female threads. Then put the belt on and tighten the fan up snug.
Grreat video.. your an alright dude.
hey brother "rookie mistake" again thanks for answering my questions all the time I know you are very busy I went and took a look at the fan clutch and again you were RIGHTlooks like its locked up lol I soooo appictate your time and mind thanks I will be working on this asap and I know that will be fixed thanks again brother
Great rebuild! And worth it!
Replaced both of those!! Keep them vids coming!!
Fantastic !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Clint. Very informative video.
My 02 7.3 has 137k no issues with waterpump but about to do a big coolant service and figured why not while I am in there. Been scratching my head between Navistar, Motorcraft, Gates or even Dieselsite's pump. This comment about the square gasket pretty much seals the deal (pun intended) for me. Just out of curiosity, how many miles/years are you seeing out of these gates pumps?
The riffraff billet housing is so nice and looks good. Definitely with you on recommending those
Excellent video . Thank you.
Replaced the wiring harness did s major overhaul on my 1995 powerstroke that's next the water pump
Any chance you can post a video on the differences between a e99 and late 99 7.3?
Can you impact those pully bolts out ? Any other tricks to get them out without spinning the pully. The belt doesn't stop the pully from spinning for me. I have a cracked rib and a badly turned ankle so I'm trying to repair my truck and myself at the same time.
Nice job thanks and keep ‘em coming 👍👍
Will do Thanks
@ 40:25 very funny ! Well i ended up with round gasket and reinstalled old bolts and she leaks, thought because didn't use a sealant...i see you didn't use any, planning on removing bolts one at atime and installing new....whatcha think ?
What did you do ?
@@LemonySnicket-EUC it was the thermostat housing leaking...bought a nude one
Hi Clint, thank you so much for all the videos and expert advice. Your Oil Cooler rebuild video helped me tremendously. Followed your instructions to a T, worked great. Can I please ask you for a link and / or part # for the 192 degrees thermostat? is this correct: F6TZ-8575-EA
Is amazing how i got a possible answer to an unrelated issue here. My 7.3 van has that 50 to around 80 rpm range unstable idle, no codes , nothing and nobody is sure why. If i have indeed air going to the HPOP reservoir due to a bad seal caused by an improper bolt on the waterpump do i need to remove the waterpump and the timing cover to reseal and retorque with the appropriate bolts or just doing the waterpump will suffice? By the way, this videos are always very instructive.
I know this is a old comment but did you ever do the water pump on your van? I have a 7.3 van also and need to do the water pump but there are no videos for the Econoline so I'm just wondering how hard it was?
Is it recommended to NOT use RTV on the water pump gasket mating surfaces?
Don't use rtv on the water pump it won't seat even But rtv is used on parts of the back of timing cover
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Clint, are you then recommending a thin film of RTV even if we buy the Gates Premium oil pump with the Flat Gasket? IMO, if there is a water leak, I am buying all new parts, not reusing anything. The labor far exceeds the cost of the pump and outlets.
Wish I’d seen this a couple months ago when I did mine..
Just took my water pump off. The long bolt at the 4 oclock position came out covered in oil and dripping. Is that normal?
I replaced my water pump a couple of years ago but hadn't heard about retightening the pump bolts after waiting. I was surprised to see you get extra movement of a couple of bolts. I haven't had any problems but do you think it would hurt to check torque now or should I follow the "If it ain't broke don't fix it."
"If it ain't broke don't fix it." Leave it be
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks Clint.
Man Clint… I think I have that 50 rpm idle up idle down problem. It’s driven me crazy. Gets worse on hotter days. Do I need to remove the timing cover and reseal, or just swap with new
2002 F350 7.3 4x4 Super Cab SWR 149K miles.
I'm getting ready to change my water pump, this video really helped. I bought a International / Navistar through Diesel O Rings. I'm also ordering the water pump bolts through Riff Raff Diesel.
A few days ago my radiator failed and have a reddish fluid in my de gas bottle and no transmission fluid showing on the dip stick. I ordered a new motorcraft radiator from Lakeland Florida Ford ( only one I could find in Florida nearby ). I'm also changing the following items.
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Thermostat
Thermostat housing
Lower water pump inlet.
My question is to flush the system do I need to keep the contaminated radiator, de gas bottle and water pump on the truck? Can I disconnect the transmission lines from the radiator, remove the contaminated radiator and still flush the engine block? why flush a contaminated radiator and degas bottle? Do I need to service the transmission? Thank you!
To do the best job remove the trany lines use a rubber line and connect the 2 drop the pan install new filter reinstall pan fill new fluid then with old radiator and pump flush the engine I know what your getting at but you don't want to contaminate the new parts and seals then once the system is clean install all your new components and seal Nows not the time to try to save a buck
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD This video came out at the right time! I've been following your advise on changing sensors. I also have the following ready for install:
EBP sensor and tube
Cam positioning sensor
Oil cooler gaskets (on order from Diesel O Rings)
IPR.
Definitely put a dent in my wallet, but I'm saving money by doing it myself. I hope you know the time you spend making these videos is greatly appreciated 👍
Pulling my water pump and when I removed some of the upper pump bolts they were covered in oil. I have replaced a few water pumps (not 7.3) and have never seen this before, do I have a problem?
timing cover seal is leaking where the oil passes to the HPOP Time for new seal job
I used the air chisel method on the fan clutch nut when I changed my water pump a couple of years ago. I now want to replace my fan clutch but I worry that the chisel method may damage my water pump bearings. Should I be concerned?
The issue with the air chisel is cracking the nut and having the fan spin off If you don't use the pressure full throttle just a little air at the finger trigger you will be good as long as you didn't over due it last time
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks Clint.
Hi Clint, can you recommend me a good place where I can send my 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 computer to get fixed please
www.dieseltechchatt.com/?syclid=4d2fe712-1c70-4176-9530-edc785953426 www.fs1inc.com/ford-pcm-ecm-ecu-engine-computer.html?cq_cmp=6448099187&cq_con=75774942183&cq_med=&cq_net=s&cq_plac=&cq_plt=gp&cq_src=google_ads&cq_term=+7.3++ecm&enginesize=476&gad_source=2&make=96&p=3
Why don't you use gasket sealer in addition to the gasket?
It has been found to cause cavitation and or out of alignment issues
thanks for the content. once i remove my glow plugs will i be able to put a wrench on the fan nut and bar over the engine easily to check for any mechanical problems? how heavy are heads if i have to remove those? stay warm.
Heads are very very heavy 110 pounds plus exhaust 30 pounds
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks for the information. have a great day
You might have just diagnosed my idle problem. It’s intermittent and almost sounds like a slight skip. I can see the tach jump minimally (about 10 rpm). Would the HPOP reservoir be aerated if my idle problem was related to the front cover bolts losing their torque. The truck runs really good besides every once in a while at idle after it’s been warmed up.
you can diagnose and confirm by adding this for 1 oil change if it stops that's the problem www.finditparts.com/products/7035901/navistar-flted8oz
Did you try this product?
the first tube you removed from the top of the pump with the 1 inch wrench was the heater bypass?
Yes part of the heating system that goes to the heater core at fire wall pass side
I'm a big fan of you man I have a question. I have 2000 7.3 4x2 I rebuilt my transmission one year ago have 50000 miles since them now my 1st gear And reverse Is slipping. when I stopped too the light is sleeping do you have any idea what's that caused. But if I hold my break and Some gas to the engine give and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds doesn't slip after that if I release Is the break slowly
Auto trans most common issues which you described /// caused by low transmission pressure either from an internal leak, worn pump, or aerated fluid.
Easy: Loose transmission filter allowing air intrusion around seal in pump.
Not as easy: Pump replacement or sealing ring replacement.
Hardest to swallow: Transmission
But could be other issues these are just the highest probability
Clint what brand of thread sealer do you like best.
Permatex has proven to be the best over my years Loctite has shown to fail multiple times
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks Clint
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD How do you mean this...? As Loctite /Permatex are the same company.
Hi Clint, I noticed that you don’t use any anti seize on any of the bolts. Can you please clear this up for me, thank you.
You don't want over torquing of the bolt in this location causing old timing covers to spider crack so no oil or anti s
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks Clint, appreciate the quick response
Im repacing my fan clutch. Do you recommend ford oem fan only or will an aftermarket one be ok and if so what brand do you recommend? Thanks
This is the exact one we use amzn.to/44VH2jV Why.. It doesn't fail in the first week of use where the cheap 100 bucks or less do, just confirm fit ment there are 2 different kinds
Hey Clint, been subscribed and watching for a while now. quick question. I have the BAFX WIFI OBD2 code reader. I use the OBD Fusion App. when I connect my phone to WIFI and open App none of the guages have any reading at all. Do you know why that is?
not really but I do know there are different pids you can reload like forscan if you go into there directive setting there are 3 different pids for several of the sensors most apps break down gauges by year so 97-98 98-99 99.5-03 but they will be labeled with different codes that mean nothing to any one but the app builder
how did you figure out to change the bolts on the water pump it dose not state it in the alldata procedure info
Correct Ford does not require it. Yet it's a great idea considering how many miles we are likely to put on the new pump before getting in there again.
What's a good timing cover gasket to use?
www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-cover-gasket-set-94-03/ www.riffraffdiesel.com/international-t-442-rtv-silicone/ ua-cam.com/video/azAsibGveTI/v-deo.html
Hey Sir, question I'm getting a whooshing noise on my 7.3 2002. At rpm range 1250-1800rpm then goes away when higher. Around 30-50mph. Any ideas?
Could be your exhaust back pressure plate, if you have a scan program ie FORScan or the like check those. Mine and a buddy of mine was making the whooshing but we live in the north east so when it’s chilly the stupid thing turns on while your going down the road. On mine it was a sensor and line(which you can see is that rusty plate above the water pump in this video) needed replacement. My buddy had me just remove the plate behind the turbo with a kit he got online. Mine was easy fix his was not so much fun for some shade tree fellers.
I have striped the small bolt at far end of water pump torquing it down not always but has happened more then once anyone else have this
Never had it happen on the timing cover but have had it happen on other aluminum parts you can usually spot a potential bad bolt hole when the old bolt is removed and it has a lot of white powder on it
Where would you get a new timing cover if yours is junk
Riff Raff carries all years OEM quality www.riffraffdiesel.com/engine-front-cover-97-03/ or www.riffraffdiesel.com/engine-front-cover-94-95/
Thankyou
Not a Dorman. They are JUNK. CPS Hole is always off. Not deep enough.
Clint you did a video on front timing covers.. correct bud?
Minnesota accent?
Warm