How To Install A Ducted Mini Split -Start To Finish-
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- Опубліковано 4 лис 2023
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This video is for educational purposes. Any and all HVAC repair work is done at your own risk. Any person attempting to deal with any type of refrigerant MUST have their EPA 608 certificate. The DIY HVAC Guy channel is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information.
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Beautiful install overall, Just the ductwork I would recommend offset on supply and return plenums and make a true seal and prevent duct leakage. This is a very nice install. SMACNA Guy here.
Great video, I learned a lot. One tip - the pliers you used to start the condensor are coated with plastic but they do not insulate you from electrical current. You need a tool that is rated for electrical work. They will specifically say they are usually have a 1000V or 10,000V rating. They will also have something like this printed on them: VDE certified, and built to meet IEC/EN 60900-2012 .
That's they kind of tools you should use if you're wroking with live wires or equipment that is hooked up to live wires. Be safe.
I would def buy the premade box, being as you could use large media filters, which filter more and don’t restrict air flow.
Love the videos. That's funny I live in Sandy and my son lives in Missouri.
NICE JOB I LEARNED ALOT. THANK YOU
Great video.Great job. Well explained. I live in Ontario Canada. The don't allow low voltage and high voltage in the same conduit here.
NEC does not allow it either!!!! The insulation ratings are different . If the ratings were the same,thats a different story!
, high volt will
Mess with communication within low volt anyway.
Good job man!! Great video
Thanks brotha
In Canada it’s wise to put a heat pump on a stand. Gotta keep it outta the snow
Great job
Great job.
thank you man you are blessed
Nice job.
Another quality install. You’re a good brother. I think your brother might owe you a dinner or two.
Haha he’s a good brother too 😊
Great Thanks.
Use a plastic Sharpie or similar to push in the contactor.
It still requires EPA 608 to purchase/install the unit.
Mikey pipes put a bosch in for me. Im very very lucky. What you are doing for people is amazing. Awesome your bro let you do this. My bro is so up tight he wont let me do anyting to help him. He pays people to do it. I checked his air handler this summer said he had a clog. He said dont worry about it I'll call someone. He had an ez trap with a brush up there lol. His systems are 22 on a multi floor 500k home he just bought (got taken with that shity hvac), HW heater had blown exp tank. Yea we could have dealt with it all but nope.
Oh and 2 days after i looked at the air handler he had water dripping on his daughter in bed in her crib. So i guess i was right.
Livermore Barker and crew! Dyna’s, Caddy’s in Patterson
You are an awesome instructor! I have learned so much from your videos.
What do you do with the condensing unit after you pump the refrigerant into it?
Yea I typically reclaim it into a tank. But with this one, my brother just brought it to the scrap yard. They didn’t require a license to bring in coils which was surprising. That or sometimes I’ll throw it on Facebook and someone will come get it.
great video, thanks for sharing. since it's been 7+ mo., i'm curious about how the unit is performing now. have there been any problems since installation?
Can you come again in Missouri I need system installation I love your video
Have you tried the recterseal easy bend , you can bend the line set by hand without fear of kinking it.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!! 🙏🏻
Another great video. Thank you for sharing. I want to reuse my existing copper lines. I have seen your video on how to clean them from remaining r22 oils. However I am not sure about the diameter of the lines that I am allowed to use. I believe I currently have 3/8 and 7/8 lines for 3.5 ton unit. The cooper & hunter unit you installed has 1/4 and 5/8 lines. Can I reuse my existing lines even if they are larger than required or do I have to install new copper lines? My air handler is in my attic which is about 30 feet high so running new lines will be a lot of work. Any suggestions?
I got a question, with the vacuum set up. Does your micron gauge have male threads or female? How did u connect the manifold hose to your micron gauge?
Also could you install the micron gauge to the low side with a tee and pull from there by eliminating the high side?
Good job man keep it up!
Thanks for the video. I'm looking into that system, but for a 5 zone wall mount installation. Do you have any feedback on the multizone hyper heat version
Awesome video! I just installed a MrCool Ducted System (5 ton). It looked amazingly similar to the Cooper & Hunter you installed here. I guess there is some China factory this stuff all comes from. The MrCool has a 10 year warranty for self-install, if you use MrCool no-vac lines. Mine is up and running and it is running great! I would be curious if you would show how to check the charge on these systems?
do u have any vids about air2water pumps too?
Your awesome
Just the video I was looking ages for. Thanks dude, ur a great teacher cheers mate for info, from Downunder. How many cfm is vacumm pump?
I think that one was 4cfm
I am currently installing 6 Senville mini split heat pumps in my house and pole barn that work down to -22f.
-22,the big three dont even claim anything below -13 with reduced capacity!
@@petersmart1999 Mine is rated to -22f. It has more to do with the refrigerant than anything. They have heat pumps rated for -32f but most of these heat pumps are rated for a COP somewhere higher, like 47f. My heat pump works at a cop of 3.8 at 47f. I stop using my heat pump as supplemental heat below 20f as it isn't as efficient and I have a 95% efficient boiler. In my case, I use the heat pump to heat the area we use during the day and not the bedrooms above. Saves a small amount
No its not!
I'm currently installing a 24000k Senville ducted mini split.
I should have done it 2 months ago when it wasn't hot in Florida. The attic is brutal 😅
Nice! If that system is similar to the Mr. Cool "wired controller", you can expect set point float as I like to call it. You set it to 72, you will get a random 3 degrees above or below the set point where the unit will satisfy. Frustrating, but I did confirm with Mr. Cool support, this is how these wired controllers perform. I ended up going back to a 24v Honeywell VisionPRO, while not communicating, it works great and the unit still modulates load.
Funny, this is how the Mr cool ductless units operate too. Unfortunately there’s no fix for it, other than getting a Mitsubishi/Daikin/etc…
this is the exact thing as Mr Cool and ACiQ. BTW ACiQ like $1k less from HVAC Direct, all the same stuff haha...ACiQ works with 24v thermostat, I use a ecobee with mine.
@@richiefekecs nice!
Hope your brother enjoyed that submarine sandwich while you were working!
That was my dad 🤣
nice 👍🏼
nice.!
Blows my mind at how many BTU people install. I have a 1000 square foot bungalow that I have been cooling easily with a 12,000 BTU 120 VAC mini split for 14 years now. I live in Canada where we get minus 40 to plus 40 C. My place was built in 2003, well insulated,
Well insulated is the key word.
Missouri gets quite a bit warmer than Canada. If their house is 2000 sq feet or more a 3 ton unit sounds appropriate.
@@Egleu1 It doesn't get much warmer there in the summer than it does here. This just tells me people didn't insulate properly.
@@user-ln7of9gs4s Why not insulate first. Seal all air leaks and downsize the heatpumps. In the long run it would be cheaper to run and more comfortable.
@@timcat1004 Missouri is much farther south. The house in the video is old. Of course it's not insulated properly.
Currently installing a Senville 24000 btu ducted system.
I haven't been able to find much information on sizing my returns.
I have the return plenum set up for 3- 8 inch returns using about 40-45 ft of flex.
5 - 7" supply line totalling about 65 ft.
Any idea if my returns will be enough?
I was looking at replacing out unitary split system with a ducted mini split but we currently have a 2 zone system and I’ve heard they sometimes have trouble with. Are inverter systems incompatible with multi-zone systems? What is the potential problem with using this type of inverter with a multi zone system?
Can you hook up a ducted heat pump up to a furnace instead of the air handler?
Those heat strips seem way to close to the electrical boards especially without some kinda thermal protection. I get it's how they designed it but I would add some form of thermal reflection to protect the electrical
The heat strip is in the ductwork. The breakers do not get hot nor does the board
I am looking at this a second time. You have your HVAC system in a conditioned basement.
My two AC and NG heat systems are in the unconditioned attic area.
How would a system work lying on the side and why would I want a return filter in my attic? My downstairs return filter is in a stairwell and upstairs return filter is in the hallway ceiling.
Not sure how to design a ducted mini split system to replace what I have.
Is it more efficient than natural gas heating? Hard to believe.
Is there a difference in this hyper and the regular unit?
I thought the return duct you made needs to be insulated? Also, is it required to use the included thermostat or can a different one be used?
These units really should also be on pump ups or risers. At least 4" off the ground. I think you said this was installed in Missouri so I imagine snow isn't too bad there so maybe it works out. But you really should have risers.
You forgot to install a surge protector on the condenser, very important with these units, also with the unit being in Missouri, per the installation manual, it should be raised at least 6" or more to stay above the snowfall, and avoid ice build up, so that condensation can properly drain when hyper heating and not freeze up. I have an ACiQ, same exact thing as this C&H, different logo, and I had to raise mine 6" as well. In MO might need to be raised even more depending on how much snowfall they usually get. The installation video even recommends a Snowcap for these units in snowy climates to keep snow off and away from the coils, I just ordered one from Hanger for my ACiQ. Also, none of the tools you used are in your Amazon store, maybe add them or least put the links in the description? Otherwise great video! I actually purchased an ACiQ based on your Duel Fuel video, although I don't have duel fuel, just using the heat pump, and worked great, even in 10F!
He might have a whole-home surge protector.
Dave, I am retired but have always been interested in learning to work on HVAC equipment. I watched many of your videos and decided to replace a Mitsubishi mini split that had died. I purchased a new 2 ton Mitsubishi but needed to use the old line set because of the way it snaked through the attic. I used pro flush and than ran the Hilmor plugs through the the lines to get any remaining residue out. Hooked everything up new flares etc and pressured checked to 580 lbs for 24 hours and it dropped to 525 but the temperature also dropped 20 degrees. Anyway released nitrogen and. Tried to do the decay test and got down to 120 microns but within 10 mins it was up over 500 microns. Leak? - fill with nitrogen again and bubble leak all connections? Thanks retired Dave
@dpc5250, were your existing copper lines the same diameter as the new Mitsubishi unit required?
Thoughts on parts for future repairs? It’s gonna fail at some point how difficult is it going to be to get parts for these types of systems?
Depending on the price of gas in his area it may have been more economical for him to go dual fuel vs all electric unless he has solar… in my area, the economic balance point of my equipment was 40F which defeats the purpose of having an extreme heat inverter condenser. Also with inverter units, it’s not a bad idea to install a surge protector for them.
surge protector for outside unit
I see some installation options on hvacdirect site. Anyone know how that works?
Is there a catch with the mini-split style ducted heat pumps costing way less than the lower efficiency vertical style? Eg Aciq R4H5S24AKAAA vs Aciq ACiQ-24-EHPB. Why do people still do the old style?
I guess a better example is the Aciq N4H7T24AKAAA at 16 SEER costing $4500 vs the inverter style at $2800
Just a heads up that drain won’t function without the “clean out” tee being capped or plugged as it’s on the negative pressure side of the blower
Noted! I’ll have him throw a cap on it
Mon lives in Texas now, and still misses her gas heat with a heat pump not hot air when you’re cold heat pumps maintain temperature don’t make heat very well
Yea it confuses a lot of people for sure.
You don't need to have epa to handle refrigerants?
Yes you do
@diyhvacguy Yes. 608 EPA. I had to study for a week and take test, get card.
Last I checked in regards to Cooper and Hunter - the warranty is only in effect if it's installed by a professional. I was installing a 12k in my garage and ended up with Pioneer as CH would not warranty a DYI install. I understand HVAC and could do this IMO, but what I struggle with is the process of purchasing the right equipment. For example, I have a 36k AC and a 80k 95% gas furnace. I'd love to have a heat pump with GAS as a backup rather than restive heat but the issue I have is sizing and shopping for the right equipment. I personally believe a 4 Ton would do the trick and I've seen a Gas/HeatPump HF combo for something like 6k. So much of this requires a lot of planning. I fear your video, while looking easy, is not the full job and doesn't show why you had blood on your finger in one of the shots.
Do the system yourself and then have a licensed HVAC installer do the charging of the lines, make sure that you get their license number or whatever it's called for HVAC certification and write it on the invoice. When you call tell them that it was installed with a licensed HVAC contractor because technically, it was. Alternatively ask their legal team or contact the place that sold it to you because they should have some disclaimers the indicate your warranty would be void unless it's installed by a licensed contractor
You can also contact c&h and ask them for a list of their approved HVAC contractors that they recommended in the area. Then you can ask and call each one to have them come out and do the Evac and system checks for you and pay them a fee for their time which is hell of a lot cheaper than having them do the whole entire install. Just tell them you're having a problem with your system and ask them to come fix. Then when they get there, explain what you need. They "repaired" (installed) and your warranty should be good. I would even see if c&h has a warranty registration process where you can give them the license info of the installer.
@@claytonjames4779contractors do not even want to talk about anything else for what they will not get kickbacks from sale office
@claytonjames4779 What you're recommending is borderline fraud. Also if you call me asking to finish up you're non warranty install, what makes you think I will give you a warranty? Lol. Not gonna happen, and the equipment has to be bought by the contractor directly from the supplier and do the full install in order to warranty it. Quit giving out BS advice.
I would love to install a ac heat pump but industry needs come long way. Cold climate need gas back up i/e emergency heat and be able to receive Solor as primary input. Have a mini split on order that will run totally on solar panels without any other input. Going to try that first nothing else on market that I found.
What's the impact of not running a nitrogen test?
You won't know if there is a leak
@@fletcherryangolf534 All he has to do is a decay test. Once it gets down to low microns vacuum, wait 15 minutes and if it holds or doesn't increase on the micron gauge you are good to go. I would have done a nitrogen gas flush and a pressure test, but the leak down (decay) works OK.
It’s harder to pull a vacuum with the Schrader valve core in the way.
Your thinking about recovery. Pumping down just pulls it back into the condenser.
@@petersmart1999:
He didn’t show that the vacuum ever got to 500 microns or lower.
@@denverbraughler3948 It was one hour and was 600 microns, too many connections had the same issue in the past now I only use a hose for this reason
@@denverbraughler3948also don’t understand how he connected the micron gauge to the liquid line hose. Usually the micron gauge is female thread
@@user-dy6on2ue4e:
He explained that the adapter came with the manifold gauge set, yes?
I enjoy your videos, but the devil is in the details. Could you spend a few more minutes on things like how you joined the sides of the bottom box? Where to responsibly dispose the old freon-filled condenser, etc?. For DIYers, the details that are skipped are what makes us able to do this type of job. You have very informative content and because of it I helped a friend install a mini-split in his shop. My first mini install. Thanks for your videos.
that seems like a nice system but going from gas heat to a heat pump will be a shock for most people. The temp difference is the main issue, mild weather prolly be fine but gets cold in mIssouri in the winter time. Surprised you just did not install a new 90+ furnace and straight ac .
I did the same at my house with my dual fuel setup and the difference was minimal. Maybe because of the hyper heat? As long as it keeps my home at the temp it’s set for, I’m happy
@@bluejay71352,500 btu's of pure dry ass heat! Yay
@@bluejay713the heat strip is emergency heat. The heat pump will heat just fine.
Yep that would be the best way to go, so he could have kept that Lennox furnace and just added the heat pump to it and have a great system with gas used as emergency heat .
@@diyhvacguy
Toshiba Product, They use to produce all Carrier Inverter Systems, Good Product
Why go from a gas furnace to a heat pump? Isn’t gas heat better than a heat pump, specially in really cool weather?
Depends on what your goals are. Energy independence? Co2?
Canadians had 30% install of heat pumps last year.
Gas stoves and furnaces will be banned from most new buildings in New York state under a new measure passed by lawmakers.
The provision, included in the state's budget bill passed Tuesday night by the New York Legislature, begins phasing in next year. The measure prohibits the installation of fossil-fuel equipment in buildings of seven stories or less in 2026, with the ban for larger buildings starting in 2029.
Should be interesting for Buffalo Ny but hey the government knows whats best for us, right?
This equipment was free. Pretty good reason to get a new hvac system haha
@@diyhvacguy How can I get it free too? let me know, Super interested
Gas is so yesterday. My Bosch HP heats fine down to about 15F, Average winter temp here in CT is 39. Last year I had one day where it got to 4F and my heat strip came on and used lots of electricity. For the rest of the time, the HP worked fine and no heat strip usage
Your supposed to use a finger to push in the contactor, preferably with a foot in standing water and touching condenser. Insulated tools are for rookies. JK.
Gas will eventually be thing of the past. Electrification/VRF is coming full speed ahead.
@@bluejay713 only an uneducated person in this field would say that response.
@@jaymz0074 Gas is over. Wake up.
@@larrylarry1206 what I'm literally saying dumb dumb
Not sure you should be teaching people how to do it yourself. As an HVAC owner and operator we spend a lot of time training and getting certifications to do this sort of work. You can easily get someone hurt. The refrigerant can kill and freeze burn. The $14,000 you pay is what it cost to keep an HVAC company running the right way. I just caution people out there watching his videos. There is a reason it says the warranty is only good when installed by a licensed HVAC contractor. Be safe out there and higher a professional when it comes to HVAC.
They quoted 22 000 after they would take a rebate for 2 000 from the state. I do not need your warranty when I could buy 3 more brand new units with money I save if my first unit goes bad
Piss off with your gate keeping. They install these all over the third world on mud huts. It ain’t rocket science.
I support this except for smaller tasks it can't be wrong for a capable homeowner to learn some everyday things to help their system. But installing new systems..I'm probably with you on that. Same with plumbing, carpentry, or anything else.
You mad you can’t screw people out of thousands of $$$ to justify your “certifications” ?
I would prefer to do it myself versus "highering" some guys who will do a crap job anyway. Give a man some fish he'll eat once, teach him to fish he can save over 9k to feed his family. There are more than enough people unwilling or unable to do this work. This guy is humble and not greedy, let's be honest you don't care about anyone's safety, you want the money. The HVAC business hates DIYers, but you're hurting yourselves by charging so much, taking advantage, and doing crap work. Here in texas the guys doing the work wouldn't be able to chase a short on a one wire system. I never hear mechanics trying to stop folks working on their vehicles. Point is there is plenty of money to make.