BTW I replaced the carb and bowl gaskets as well as the fuel filter, gas lines, primer assembly and hose. I followed your cleaning steps exactly. What controls opening the throttle past idle? It sounds strong if I rev it with my finger. There is fresh gas and no gas leaks. Thanks again.
Of course first I cleaned the carb and it still wouldn't run right, Then I searched and found this video and I re-cleaned it following your advice. Now it runs like new! Thanks, Great help!!!!
sixtyfiveford looks like I raised my hands too soon :( The issue is that the snow blower runs well for about a minute and then starts accelerating. It almost feels like it's going to blow so I quickly turn it off. I tried playing around with the adjustment screw but to no success. Any thoughts? Also, am I turning it off too soon? As in, should I let it run at higher RPMs and hope that it slows down? When is it too dangerous to run the snow blower?
It's a 2 stroke so it can handle some revving for short periods. I wonder if it is running out of gas in the carb bowl. When a 2 stroke engine starts to run out of gas it goes lean and raises rpms for 5 seconds or so then dies.
sixtyfiveford That's exactly what it did! It actually ran on very high RPMs then raised even more and died... I ended up replacing this carb with a new one and realized that it was the throttle to blame. The old one was seized and did not move at all. So it was always in open position. On the new carb it actually moves and stays in a certain position when the motor is running. Newbie me :( The blower works way better now, however, it does take about 10 cranks to start. I just use the electric start to get it going. Not sure if I'll bother improving it but any thoughts as to what is causing this? I do use the shutter and prime it well.
I use the 8/32 screw to remove the needle seat not the idle jet. If your carb isn't flooding I wouldn't take out the needle and seat. 90% of carbs can be cleaned and reassembled without any new parts and will work the same and as long as a carb that had everything swapped out.
It just looks like the slot on the emulsion tube (where the bit would go) is chipped a bit......I tried to turn it, and felt a small break, I think..I see what you mean by, "If you strip them, you are screwed".....LOL I sprayed cleaner through the emulsion tube, and it is spraying out pretty good, so I'm just going to leave it....The problem I was having (the reason I took it apart) is that the engine was surging. I'm going to just screw the jet back into the emulsion tube and hope for the best!
I want to thank you for your help. My snowblower after short use would not power up and when I parked it gas would run out. I changed the float and needle valve, cleaned the carb and blew it out, now runs great and no overflow. Let it snow let it snow! runs great, again thanks for the help.
Grand-Ma gave me her old snowblower, same model as the one in the video. Did not work 2 years and did not start when i got it home. I have zero knowledge of mechanic and engine. Listen to your vids like 5 or 6 times. Now it works. Thank you very much. Im happy found your video.
You sir are the man! Took off the carb and went over it again really concentrating on the idle circuit. I didn't really notice anything visible. I used the float pin spring to clean the tiny idle jet orifice as my copper wire was too big. It now runs like a champ. Just in time for the storm we are supposed to get here in NW New Jersey. Thanks for the video and info. I can rebuild this thing blindfolded now.
Thanks so much sixtyfiveford, I followed your directions and completely cleaned this carb up! My Toro CCR2000 is 23 years old and still kick'n with occational replacement of warn parts. Here in the Buffalo, New York area we get hammered with lake-effect snow, last year we got 7 feet in two days! I used your modified impeller kit also, boy did that come handy last year.Anyway, after clearing the carb completely, I reinstalled it and primed it once and it fired right up..., and the surging I had the last couple of years is gone now. Keep up the great work!
It pushes the float to close the needle. Put the loop on the pin and insert the pin/spring into the float retaining hole. Hook the looped end over the pin once it protrudes far enough out the other side. Now you can take the pointed end of the spring and rotate/position it so it Pushes the float and needle to the closed position. It should only need to rotate less than one turn to get into position. Hope this makes sense.
I followed your great video because of stalling. It's much better but still not right. I have to keep priming it for like 5+ minutes before I can slowly close the choke. Even then it periodically wants to stall unless I hit the primer bulb. If I rev the throttle it sounds strong. Looking at the carb directly across the body from the primer tube is a very small threaded hole. Is there supposed to be anything in it? I cleaned the main jet well and passed your float test. Any suggestions? Thanks!
The governor system controls the rpm at which the snowblower runs. When it starts or goes under load it will open the throttle, but it doesn't need to when the engine has no load on it. Forcing it over will make it over rev to a higher rpm but you should feel it forcing your finger back.
Thanks. That small screw with the hole in it is your main jet. The other long part is the emulsion tube and will have a flathead screwhead on it. If it doesn't want to budge, leave it. It is seldom clogged and you can destroy the entire carb by snapping off the tube inside. Spray up through it and the carb cleaner will still clean it.
Smashing tutorial :-) I dont have a machine with that type of carb, but its allways nice to learn :-) Like your function discription of the carb parts, again it gives us all a heads up on the way it works. Expensive tube&seal oooow they are taking the piss :-(
When I took a screwdriver tip and unloosened the main jet, just the top (screw) part came out...In the video, you referred to yours as being "fused together".....How do I get the other piece out? does it threaded as well, or can I just get a pair of pliers through the flaps, squeeze on it and push it up and out of there???? Thanks in advance.
I have a CCR2000 with the same carb. Looks like the fuel bowl is weeping gas and the top gasket looks moist. Also, the connector that the fuel hose attaches also looks moist. Any suggestions for the carb and the plastic fuel tank fitting to eliminate these very small leak. Stinks up the garage. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.
The emulsion tube comes out the bottom the same way the jet came out. It is a standard counter clockwise turn (see 4:00). Any grabbing of the emulsion tube through the throat of the carb will damage it.
Excellent instructional video! I am working on the same carb. I’m having some problems. Could you please suggest what I might try to free the emulsion tube without damaging it? It seems to be stuck; the main jet came out leaving the tube behind. Your advice would be very much be appreciated.
Honestly just leave it if it doesn't come out with a few knocks. You can try pushing it out lightly from insider the carb but if you push too hard you'll mushroom the top and ruin the entire carb.
Great Video! I had just completed the rebuild on my own (without watching first) but looked this up to double check before I reinstalled the carb into the snowblower. Great info on that rubber needle seat and how to remove it. I found it a few places for about $13 plus shipping but thanks to your explanation, I tested it by blowing. It sealed great, just like you demonstrated, so I'll leave the original in there this time around. I went to test it out but it wasn't getting fuel. I had a clear in-line filter in it with all new fuel line. Still no fuel in the filter or to the carb. I figured out that I had made the fuel line too long. In normal operating position, the line and filter sat higher than the exit port on the tank. Stupid me, it's gravity fed. I shortened up the line so it was more of a straight shot to the carb and presto, it worked great! Starts on one pull. WooHoo! Thanks for the great, easy to understand video. My small engine shop wanted $80 plus parts to do a fall tune-up. All this cost me was an hour of my time and some cleaner. TIP: When I rebuild small engines, I have found that using a bristle from a nylon paint brush works great for clearing small jets. On larger jets, I cut a bristle from a stiff nylon broom. The nylon comes in different sizes, is flexible, doesn't kink under pressure, and slides right through the ports without damaging anything.
+Tim Aldrich Mine sealed just fine after cleaning so I didn't replace it. Search for part number 81-5820. It's called a Seal Kit. Mowpart.com has it for just over $10 plus about $8 shipping. Amazon has it for about $12 plus shipping but it's shipped and sold by a third party seller. I'd try Mowpart first. They look like a legitimate brick-n-mortar business near Dallas, Texas. It's a subsidiary of "Four Brothers Ford Tractor" and has a BBB A+ rating. If you buy the part, let us know how it works out.
Quick follow up, The carb clean was what it needed, no parts. Just disassembled per your video and half a can of carb cleaner. 1 prime push and started on first pull. Idles, no surging, once snow starts falling here i'll find out if it's back to normal. Thanks
a random non seating needle could mean your air vent-primer button air port is clogged. Do you hear air or gurggling gas when you press the primer button? This will tell you if it is clogged. Surging is generally a clogged idle passage.
They are great machines. One thing a suggest is new rubber paddles. If the space between the housing and the rubber paddle is 7mm or more, it is worn. This makes a HUGE difference on how well it throws the snow.
Thanks! It started right up.....And no more surging!!!! Problem solved! Thanks to you, I looked like I knew what I was doing...LOL I soaked the jets overnight in seafoam.......Runs great now....Ready for more snow on Monday! Thanks again! You have given me the confidence to know I can probably fix most small engine motors! I will keep watching your vids! Keep warm! =)
Thanks for the video. My CCR 3000 GTS had been leaking fuel for the past two years and didn't seem to be running at its full potential. This year it idled really badly and wouldn't keep power while blowing the snow. Followed your steps, and replaced the needle and seat (yes, $27.51). Work like new once again. Not bad for a 12+ year machine. Thanks again.
I get spoiled were the needle and seats for other machines are only around a $1.00 so $30 seams like a ton for this. Glad the video helped and you should be able to put another 12 years on it.
I was wrong, it still surges. Should I take it apart and clean it again? New fuel filter (2 years ago). Then I messed with the screw that is supposed to have the plastic cap on it. How do I get it back to where it was in the first place. Sometimes the easiest things don't turn out well. Help? It does still run, just not a smooth idle with no load.
Thanks again for your help. I'm going to check a few local places before I go looking on e-bay.We have a lot of thrift stores in the area-hope fully I will find one that some one just didn't want keep or repair anymore ( hopefully w a complete carb on it).
richmid1 Generally you can pick these up for $25-50 on your local Craigslist(sometimes free but you have to be quick). They generally just need a carb cleaning. The CCR2000 and CCR3000 will have the same carb.
I followed your video which was bothering me....i did the blow test each time I took apart...I had some one else put on a bubble primer ever since then I had problems..I replaced the primer with oem part works flawless!!!...thought I'd let you know...More than a hat rack goin on here!!!....Thanks again for the video and info really appreciate it...Ray
THX for the excellent video. I just finished cleaning the carb on my 3000GTS and it is running like a champ. I also replaced the paddle blades, scraper, and drive belt today. I am ready for the snow next weekend. I think my machine is close to 16YO and never been serviced.
A new set a paddles is the BEST thing you can do for these, they work so much better. With good fuel and good 2 stroke oil there is no reason these wont give 30 years of service....
+Bk 136 Kiszew If the paddles are spinning and it barely throws it or easily clogs, your paddles are worn and need replacement. If the paddles stop when you hit snow then your belt is slipping.
Your problem says that your main jet is clogged. Spray through it and up through the emulsion tube and it should be good to go. I would spray through all the other little passages as well just for safe measure. I have done tons that parts weren't removable with great results. I would leave the needle seat alone if it wasn't giving you trouble.
It could be just the fuel hose is swollen and is weeping gas onto everything. Gasoline wicks very easily and a small leak spreads to look like its everywhere. In this order is what I would check, replace and then recheck before moving on: 1: fuel line 2: bowl gasket 3: bottom bowl nut gasket 4: needle seat
The most common problems are a clogged idle jet and a clogged main jet. Let me know how it goes. FYI: You don't have to put on the back shroud to test start it and make sure everything is running smooth.
I have the same model of toro snow blower with the same Mikuni carb but there is a spring on the float on mine. Yours doesn’t have one? I can’t figure out how it goes back on the pin and float.
Thanks so much for your videos. With no prior knowledge of cleaning a carb, I was able to get a Toro 3650 I picked up for $50 starting on 1st pull and running well by following your video. Also cleaned mine has been a hard starthard start. Now it too starts easily on 1st pull. YOU DA MAN brother !!
When you see photos of the Toro 81-5820 seat kit, it shows the tube, needle and rubber seat. My question is how does the rubber seat attach to the tube. Is it possible to get it upside down? Is it obvious. Im guessing the seat goes in 1st or is attached to the end of the tube then put in as an assembly. The video does not show this part assembled before insertion into the carb. Thank you!
Hello and hope you are still around. Excellent video. What caused you to believe the needle and seat were the issue. How was it running before you did the carb work? I hope you are still around.
BTW, my CCR 2000 is from 87. It is now surging or hunting while idling and when under power and load. Seems like it is getting bursts of gas, not consistent gas. Is this just a carb cleaning as you show or is this a needle and seat issue?
@@sixtyfiveford Disconnected and removed the carb as you shown. Cleaned with carb cleaner and running smooth! Great video! Half the battle was getting to the carb in the first place. The main center jet did not come out in one piece. The bottom unscrewed from the top. How do you get the top part out? I had a set of carb wire cleaners I picked up from Amazon. Ran the largest wire I could fit through each hole.
Thanks Steve! It looked like it also could have been slotted, and I did try to put a screwdriver down there....It did not turn. Instead, I'm afraid some of the brass may have broke off at the top. This is basically the only thing that could go wrong that I can't remedy easily.....Any more advice on how to get it out? How about if I spray some WD down there and trying to place needle nose through the side, clamping lightly on that jet (Doesn't it go through the core??) and turning clockwise?
Wow, your videos are genius. My father always talks about these old timers from back in the day that could do and fix anything. Someday, I'll be telling my kids about the guy that could do anything, and he was on UA-cam. Great videos!!!!
I cleaned the carb as per your video and got my 1994 CCR2000 running again (thanks!); but it will only run when fully choked. A few seconds after I open the choke the RPMs start to drop, then surge, then the engine stalls. I can keep the engine running by forcing fuel in with quick, light presses on the primer bulb. Does that mean I need to disassemble and clean the main jet again? Would a little Sea Foam Motor Treatment help clean it out?
+John Dollison Your main jet is clogged, more than likely from debris dislodging and getting sucked into it after you cleaned it. It's discouraging but happens once in a while. I think Sea Foam is snake oil, but that's just me.
+sixtyfiveford Success! The Sea Foam wasn't helping, so I cleaned the carb again. I did a few things differently: 1) The main jet had green corrosion on it, so this time I soaked it in CLR cleaner and scrubbed it with a toothbrush until it was brass-colored again. 2) I ran some CLR cleaner through the carb body, in case any brass corrosion had broken free from the jet and got stuck in a circuit somewhere. 3) Last time I used a single strand of copper to clean the jet hole; this time I used about 5 strands (all that would fit without forcing it). 4) The float spring has a straight part that parallels the float pivot pin; last time I had that straight part on top of the metal tabs (where the pin slides through), which adds extra spring tension to the float. This time I moved the straight part of the spring down to the sides of the metal tabs, which lowers the spring tension on the float (it would be easier to show in a picture). I thought that less spring tension would make it easier for the bowl to stay filled at full throttle. (Or maybe it doesn't matter, but I'm not going to take it apart again to find out!)
+John Dollison - I too was confused about the position of the spring. When I first took it off, the long straight section of the spring was positioned on the top of the metal tabs (on the bottom when in running position). That's how it was from the last time a shop serviced it. I noticed that this didn't let the float fully drop to the black plastic limiter. I reassembled it with the long part of the spring on the side of the metal tabs, sitting between the tabs and the side of the bowl. It let the float fully drop to the black plastic limiter. It seems to run great, so it must be OK.
Hey-- great video. I followed this to repair my 1988 Toro CCR2000 yesterday and ran it last night to clear about 4" of snow on a couple driveways and it now runs great. My issue was it was hard to start and would stall out unless I pressed the fuel primer to keep it goin- impossible to use to clear snow. Thanks again.
Main jet is partially clogged. Sometimes after you clean it and it is running, it will loosen other debris in the fuel tank and line. These will reclog your main jet.
totally cleaned and replaced needle and seat....the primer is not oem...could that be the issue ?Thanks for your videos help and support....and You look like me when i was younger...hahahahaha.....
The Primer wouldn't cause leaking. Pushing the primer forces air into the bowl of the carb. The fuel is displaced and forced up the emulsion tube into the center of the carb. Multiple primes will cause a drip or so of gas to come out the mouth of the carb(this is normal). But it wouldn't cause continuous leaking. You must be a good lookin guy then.
Thanks for the info.Unfortunatly I screwed up the carb putting the fuel bowl back on,Overtightened and it cracked the body. Any suggestions on where I can buy a rebuilt or new carb ?? Mikkuni model 38180.
richmid1 Ebay is your best bet. A new one will run you $100. JB weld works wonders with little things like this if you have the time and patience. If you just cracked where the large seal is all the way around, some #1 or #2 gasket sealant would put a stop to leaking.
Tim Duffy Figured out why mine cracked-there is supposed to be a spcer between the jets and the fuel bowl.There wasn't one-when I cranked it tight it cracked the whole bottom assembly. I saw them on e-bay. Gonna shop around a little. Missed one on KSL.com by 5 minutes that was complete-dammit-it was free.
@@sixtyfiveford that's what I figured thanks! Have you ever had a problem with surging? I checked all the gaskets, main jet and pilot jet are clean and clear... cant get it to run correctly.
SixtyFiveFord, Great how-to-rebuild video. Mine is a 93 vintage model. It just recently started having issues. The engine will start when primed 1 once then die. If I prime it 2 to 3 times it runs longer then dies. The float bowl is full so I am assuming the issue is the main jet or the one on top you referred to is clogged as it doesn't appear to be a flooding issue. I am going to just clean it without doing the needle and seat replacement. Sound like I am on the track??
Thanks for the reply. I removed the governor arm and noticed that the teeth to hold onto the splines of the shaft are completely worn down meaning that the shaft was spinning inside the arm, thus letting the engine run wild. The governor arm has been discontinued and I can't find one anywhere. I guess I will try to cut some groves in the one I have. Thank you very much for your time.
I have watched both of your videos. One on the the plastic carb and this one. I need some help. Last year I cleaned the carb. It helped a little bit I had a bad float. So I ordered a carb in Amazon in metal for it. Now it starts great and runs fine without load at idle. The RPMs do not raise when your load it up. I replace the gas, fuel line, filter, and primer bulb. Nothing has made a difference. Only thing I can think of is I hooked up the governor wrong. I have bent the arm to the left and to the right. No change. Do you have any actual pictures of what should go where and how. Please let me know. And thank you in advance.
I followed video cleaned well....after I turn it off thats when the gas fills up air intake...Then it won't start obviously....I was thinkin the primer is holding fuel?....and your also modest as me as well!!!I have had it off and apart 3 times 1 or 2 more won't matter!
Do the mouth pressure test. I always do this before assembly. With carb off and bowl off: Hold carb upside down and blow as hard as you can in through the fuel inlet.The weight of the float by itself(do not touch it) should 100% seal. If you hear even the tiniest air leak, gas will leak past. Lift the float and blow (air should pass) then drop it, it should again seal 100%.
In the video you said to not mess with the idle air fuel needle, but mine doesn't have the plastic cap and it's already been messed with. Where should I set it to start, and how do I adjust it to the optimal setting once the engine's running?
Toro 2000E Had pool of gas on floor. I thought it was from the gas tube to the carb so changed clamp and leak stopped. A while later it looked like the seal above the bowl was leaking and that has now stopped. When I went to start it - it seems like it wants to turn over but doesn't. Carb had gas all over it, is that normal? Do I have to take the carb off? I had such a heck of a time getting the cover back on!! Is there a trick to it??
I was running hard today, cleaning the pond off. I ran out of gas, filled it up but I couldn't get it started. Did I flood it? I don't think I've had this problem before. Only have run about a gallon through it since I cleaned the carb? thanks
George Deligiannis More than likely the water at the bottom of the fuel froze in the line/ bowl of the carb. Thaw it out, drain the bowl and you should be good to go.
ccr2000 idled fine after cleaning, However, rpms don't increase when I engage. Does this need adjustment somewhere or is there no idle speed, just load speed?
sixtyfiveford but doesn't the needle and seat need to be changed if the carb is flooding and leaking? Also I bought a new spark plug, the gap on the new plug is smaller than the old plug. Do I have to gap the new one with a gapper?, any ideas on the gap size. thanks again.
Oh, I thought you were talking about the main jet. The Seat does need to be pulled if it is leaking. Heat can help, also tapping it in further before pulling it out can help loosen it. Yes you will need to regap the plug to .032"
sixtyfiveford So I replaced the needle and seat, I had trouble getting the old brass one out, I resorted to drilling it out until I could remove the remaining shell and then pulled the rubber part of the seat out. Put in the new steel insert with the rubber seat and replaced the needle on the float. Don't believe i damage the carb drilling the old brass insert out. Replace the plug, gap to .032, added fresh gas. Pulled choke all the way out primed about 5 times. It did start like it was in choke momentarily. second time same thing, then it would not start at all. I'm still seeing a little puddle of fuel beneath the carb after this latest attempt to start it up. Any ideas? thanks
Priming will cause a small amount of fuel to drip out; this is normal. These generally only need to be primed 1 to 3 times. If fuel continues to leak non stop then you have an issue. You may have temporarily flooded the engine. Turn the choke full off and give it some pulls to clear the flood. Then return it to choke and give it one prime.
Hi I have a ccr2000 can you tell me if there is a spring for the pulley assembly to keep pulley up till auger is engaged. And if so where is it attached thank
The secret is, if it doesn't come out leave it. Spray through everything with carb cleaner over an hour period of time(spray, let sit for 10min, repeat). This will make sure any varnish gas is dissolved and cleaned out.
Seriously bro. Start to finish. Awesome video. Knowledgable and straight to point. No long winded bs we don't need to hear like in many other how to vids on UA-cam.
Suzuki parts are so expensive because they haven’t made the engines in 15+ years. You’re paying for Toro to manufacture obsolete parts. The needle and seat used to only be 7 bucks when they were still in production and not 24 like today.
Great video! Thanks. But i don't think it will help my issue... When I push my choke in my machine idle goes WAY up??? If i pull it back out it's ok, but starts running really rich. It Sounds like a jet engine.... LOL. Can anyone HELP??? Thank you!
sixtyfiveford I can see the butterfly opening and closing with the choke handle... I just sprayed some carb cleaner into carb while running, no luck! Still revs like crazy when I shut off choke.
sixtyfiveford Got it, the screw on the back of the carb that's hooked up to the tthrottle arm was stuck wide open. Removed it, cleaned it and greased it now runs perfect. Thanks
my ccr2000 won't start and after a couple pulls fuel begins to leak from carb. Thought I did a fairly decent job of cleaning the carburetor and getting everything back together. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks
Sorry to bother you again. I cleaned the carb on my CCR2000 and it is still surging. I cleaned out all the jets and it still won't run correctly. I installed new fuel line, filter, and gaskets and the problem is still there. Any suggestions? I checked the seat by blowing into it and there are no leaks.
Surging is going to be the idle circuit. At 7:10 I take out the jet and talk about it. You need to make sure fuel is flowing through the passage at 7:55.
@@sixtyfiveford Fuel was coming out of those ports from the start. I just realized however, that the needle snapped off of the adjustment screw and plugged the hole. I have another carburetor that I'm going to try out.
@@sixtyfiveford I've never felt so stupid. I had the pulley off of the engine because I swapped one engine from another body. I put it on and the surge stopped immediately. Thank you.
+Bk 136 Kiszew The belt goes around 2 pulleys (engine and auger) with a middle idler pulley that applies pressure to the center of the belt to tighten it up. The middle idler pulley must be jammed.
Thank you so much for the information. I do have a question. You mentioned the little spring. Mine has one, and I didn't take note how it was positioned when I took it apart. Can you explain to me how to put it back on?
I ended up with a shorter screw and it worked. I couldn't get the correct leverage with a longer screw. Thanks!
This is the best video out there and the info in the comments is the best.Thanks for answering others questions and helping the rest of us!❤️
Glad it was helpful!
BTW I replaced the carb and bowl gaskets as well as the fuel filter, gas lines, primer assembly and hose. I followed your cleaning steps exactly. What controls opening the throttle past idle? It sounds strong if I rev it with my finger. There is fresh gas and no gas leaks. Thanks again.
They run forever, but they are expensive.
Of course first I cleaned the carb and it still wouldn't run right, Then I searched and found this video and I re-cleaned it following your advice. Now it runs like new!
Thanks, Great help!!!!
Just a little bit of a mark up...
Thanks a bunch dude! A cr2000e that I found a week ago is now running like new.
Alex Naris Awesome. Glad the video helped.
sixtyfiveford looks like I raised my hands too soon :( The issue is that the snow blower runs well for about a minute and then starts accelerating. It almost feels like it's going to blow so I quickly turn it off. I tried playing around with the adjustment screw but to no success. Any thoughts? Also, am I turning it off too soon? As in, should I let it run at higher RPMs and hope that it slows down? When is it too dangerous to run the snow blower?
It's a 2 stroke so it can handle some revving for short periods. I wonder if it is running out of gas in the carb bowl. When a 2 stroke engine starts to run out of gas it goes lean and raises rpms for 5 seconds or so then dies.
sixtyfiveford That's exactly what it did! It actually ran on very high RPMs then raised even more and died... I ended up replacing this carb with a new one and realized that it was the throttle to blame. The old one was seized and did not move at all. So it was always in open position. On the new carb it actually moves and stays in a certain position when the motor is running. Newbie me :( The blower works way better now, however, it does take about 10 cranks to start. I just use the electric start to get it going. Not sure if I'll bother improving it but any thoughts as to what is causing this? I do use the shutter and prime it well.
The hose from the primer bulb to the carb more than likely is disconnected or broken. This will cause hard starts.
Cool . Good Job
I use the 8/32 screw to remove the needle seat not the idle jet. If your carb isn't flooding I wouldn't take out the needle and seat. 90% of carbs can be cleaned and reassembled without any new parts and will work the same and as long as a carb that had everything swapped out.
Did you use an 8-32 machine screw? Did it strip out? You can try heating the area a little
It just looks like the slot on the emulsion tube (where the bit would go) is chipped a bit......I tried to turn it, and felt a small break, I think..I see what you mean by, "If you strip them, you are screwed".....LOL
I sprayed cleaner through the emulsion tube, and it is spraying out pretty good, so I'm just going to leave it....The problem I was having (the reason I took it apart) is that the engine was surging.
I'm going to just screw the jet back into the emulsion tube and hope for the best!
I want to thank you for your help. My snowblower after short use would not power up and when I parked it gas would run out. I changed the float and needle valve, cleaned the carb and blew it out, now runs great and no overflow.
Let it snow let it snow! runs great, again thanks for the help.
Terry Brown You're welcome, I'm glad the video helped.
Grand-Ma gave me her old snowblower, same model as the one in the video. Did not work 2 years and did not start when i got it home. I have zero knowledge of mechanic and engine. Listen to your vids like 5 or 6 times. Now it works. Thank you very much. Im happy found your video.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
Exact same carb I have on my ccr 2000. Thanks
It's the perfect time to play with snowblowers. Way better than when it's cold out.
You sir are the man! Took off the carb and went over it again really concentrating on the idle circuit. I didn't really notice anything visible. I used the float pin spring to clean the tiny idle jet orifice as my copper wire was too big. It now runs like a champ. Just in time for the storm we are supposed to get here in NW New Jersey. Thanks for the video and info. I can rebuild this thing blindfolded now.
Oh Crap... I thought no one here in the valley would watch this. Its my pleasure making the video and I'm glad it helped.
Thanks for watching its a little boring if you aren't fixing this particular carb.
Love those CCR's oh great video too
They have to be one of the best built single stage machines.
Thanks so much sixtyfiveford, I followed your directions and completely cleaned this carb up! My Toro CCR2000 is 23 years old and still kick'n with occational replacement of warn parts. Here in the Buffalo, New York area we get hammered with lake-effect snow, last year we got 7 feet in two days! I used your modified impeller kit also, boy did that come handy last year.Anyway, after clearing the carb completely, I reinstalled it and primed it once and it fired right up..., and the surging I had the last couple of years is gone now. Keep up the great work!
+Tim Aldrich the modified impeller kit went on my 11hp Craftsman
+Tim Aldrich These little Toro's are die hard machines. I've never seen one with a blown or worn out engine.
Thanks for making this video. You saved me a lot of time and money If you are ever in Salt Lake I'm buying...
It is threaded in there as well. Use as wide as flat head screwdriver that will fit and screw it out.
It pushes the float to close the needle. Put the loop on the pin and insert the pin/spring into the float retaining hole. Hook the looped end over the pin once it protrudes far enough out the other side. Now you can take the pointed end of the spring and rotate/position it so it Pushes the float and needle to the closed position. It should only need to rotate less than one turn to get into position. Hope this makes sense.
I followed your great video because of stalling. It's much better but still not right. I have to keep priming it for like 5+ minutes before I can slowly close the choke. Even then it periodically wants to stall unless I hit the primer bulb. If I rev the throttle it sounds strong. Looking at the carb directly across the body from the primer tube is a very small threaded hole. Is there supposed to be anything in it? I cleaned the main jet well and passed your float test. Any suggestions? Thanks!
The governor system controls the rpm at which the snowblower runs. When it starts or goes under load it will open the throttle, but it doesn't need to when the engine has no load on it. Forcing it over will make it over rev to a higher rpm but you should feel it forcing your finger back.
Thanks. That small screw with the hole in it is your main jet. The other long part is the emulsion tube and will have a flathead screwhead on it. If it doesn't want to budge, leave it. It is seldom clogged and you can destroy the entire carb by snapping off the tube inside. Spray up through it and the carb cleaner will still clean it.
Smashing tutorial :-)
I dont have a machine with that type of carb, but its allways nice to learn :-)
Like your function discription of the carb parts, again it gives us all a heads up on the way it works.
Expensive tube&seal oooow they are taking the piss :-(
Great video. Helped get my machine to start with one pull. New carb was over 250$ it cost me 6$ of carb cleaner. Thanks
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.
When I took a screwdriver tip and unloosened the main jet, just the top (screw) part came out...In the video, you referred to yours as being "fused together".....How do I get the other piece out? does it threaded as well, or can I just get a pair of pliers through the flaps, squeeze on it and push it up and out of there???? Thanks in advance.
I have a CCR2000 with the same carb. Looks like the fuel bowl is weeping gas and the top gasket looks moist. Also, the connector that the fuel hose attaches also looks moist. Any suggestions for the carb and the plastic fuel tank fitting to eliminate these very small leak. Stinks up the garage. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.
The emulsion tube comes out the bottom the same way the jet came out. It is a standard counter clockwise turn (see 4:00). Any grabbing of the emulsion tube through the throat of the carb will damage it.
Excellent instructional video! I am working on the same carb. I’m having some problems. Could you please suggest what I might try to free the emulsion tube without damaging it? It seems to be stuck; the main jet came out leaving the tube behind. Your advice would be very much be appreciated.
Honestly just leave it if it doesn't come out with a few knocks. You can try pushing it out lightly from insider the carb but if you push too hard you'll mushroom the top and ruin the entire carb.
Thanks. Its a little boring to watch if you aren't fixing this particular carb.
Great Video! I had just completed the rebuild on my own (without watching first) but looked this up to double check before I reinstalled the carb into the snowblower. Great info on that rubber needle seat and how to remove it. I found it a few places for about $13 plus shipping but thanks to your explanation, I tested it by blowing. It sealed great, just like you demonstrated, so I'll leave the original in there this time around.
I went to test it out but it wasn't getting fuel. I had a clear in-line filter in it with all new fuel line. Still no fuel in the filter or to the carb. I figured out that I had made the fuel line too long. In normal operating position, the line and filter sat higher than the exit port on the tank. Stupid me, it's gravity fed. I shortened up the line so it was more of a straight shot to the carb and presto, it worked great! Starts on one pull. WooHoo! Thanks for the great, easy to understand video. My small engine shop wanted $80 plus parts to do a fall tune-up. All this cost me was an hour of my time and some cleaner.
TIP: When I rebuild small engines, I have found that using a bristle from a nylon paint brush works great for clearing small jets. On larger jets, I cut a bristle from a stiff nylon broom. The nylon comes in different sizes, is flexible, doesn't kink under pressure, and slides right through the ports without damaging anything.
+Arctic Minibike - just wondering where you got your rubber needle seat kit for $13.00. Thanks,Tim
+Tim Aldrich Mine sealed just fine after cleaning so I didn't replace it. Search for part number 81-5820. It's called a Seal Kit. Mowpart.com has it for just over $10 plus about $8 shipping. Amazon has it for about $12 plus shipping but it's shipped and sold by a third party seller. I'd try Mowpart first. They look like a legitimate brick-n-mortar business near Dallas, Texas. It's a subsidiary of "Four Brothers Ford Tractor" and has a BBB A+ rating. If you buy the part, let us know how it works out.
+Arctic Minibike Thanks for the reply, will try it out in the future. Just waiting now for our first lake effect snow event. All ready for it!
Arctic Minibike
Quick follow up, The carb clean was what it needed, no parts. Just disassembled per your video and half a can of carb cleaner. 1 prime push and started on first pull. Idles, no surging, once snow starts falling here i'll find out if it's back to normal. Thanks
a random non seating needle could mean your air vent-primer button air port is clogged. Do you hear air or gurggling gas when you press the primer button? This will tell you if it is clogged. Surging is generally a clogged idle passage.
They are great machines. One thing a suggest is new rubber paddles. If the space between the housing and the rubber paddle is 7mm or more, it is worn. This makes a HUGE difference on how well it throws the snow.
Thanks! It started right up.....And no more surging!!!! Problem solved!
Thanks to you, I looked like I knew what I was doing...LOL
I soaked the jets overnight in seafoam.......Runs great now....Ready for
more snow on Monday!
Thanks again! You have given me the confidence to know I can probably fix
most small engine motors!
I will keep watching your vids! Keep warm! =)
Thanks for the video. My CCR 3000 GTS had been leaking fuel for the past two years and didn't seem to be running at its full potential. This year it idled really badly and wouldn't keep power while blowing the snow. Followed your steps, and replaced the needle and seat (yes, $27.51). Work like new once again. Not bad for a 12+ year machine. Thanks again.
I get spoiled were the needle and seats for other machines are only around a $1.00 so $30 seams like a ton for this. Glad the video helped and you should be able to put another 12 years on it.
I was wrong, it still surges. Should I take it apart and clean it again? New fuel filter (2 years ago). Then I messed with the screw that is supposed to have the plastic cap on it. How do I get it back to where it was in the first place. Sometimes the easiest things don't turn out well. Help? It does still run, just not a smooth idle with no load.
Surging is cause by a partially clogged idle circuit. The only thing that will remedy it is cleaning, sorry.
Took it off again. Bought a better brand name Carburetor Cleaner. Now it definitely works great!!!! Thanks for everything.
Great, I'm glad you stuck with it. Have a great winter.
Excellent video!! Showed everything I needed to know. GOOD JOB!!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks again for your help. I'm going to check a few local places before I go looking on e-bay.We have a lot of thrift stores in the area-hope fully I will find one that some one just didn't want keep or repair anymore ( hopefully w a complete carb on it).
richmid1 Generally you can pick these up for $25-50 on your local Craigslist(sometimes free but you have to be quick). They generally just need a carb cleaning. The CCR2000 and CCR3000 will have the same carb.
I followed your video which was bothering me....i did the blow test each time I took apart...I had some one else put on a bubble primer ever since then I had problems..I replaced the primer with oem part works flawless!!!...thought I'd let you know...More than a hat rack goin on here!!!....Thanks again for the video and info really appreciate it...Ray
Glad it helped.
finally found that idle jet passage, it was under the plastic block? Cleaned it out and now works fine! Thank you!
That's always a great feeling.
THX for the excellent video. I just finished cleaning the carb on my 3000GTS and it is running like a champ. I also replaced the paddle blades, scraper, and drive belt today. I am ready for the snow next weekend. I think my machine is close to 16YO and never been serviced.
A new set a paddles is the BEST thing you can do for these, they work so much better. With good fuel and good 2 stroke oil there is no reason these wont give 30 years of service....
Have a toro ccr 2000 runs fine first snow today won't throw it paddles ingage but under load won't throw snow tks
+Bk 136 Kiszew If the paddles are spinning and it barely throws it or easily clogs, your paddles are worn and need replacement. If the paddles stop when you hit snow then your belt is slipping.
Great video, for sure this will help a lot of guys in shops labour costs.
Your problem says that your main jet is clogged. Spray through it and up through the emulsion tube and it should be good to go. I would spray through all the other little passages as well just for safe measure. I have done tons that parts weren't removable with great results. I would leave the needle seat alone if it wasn't giving you trouble.
Cool
It could be just the fuel hose is swollen and is weeping gas onto everything. Gasoline wicks very easily and a small leak spreads to look like its everywhere. In this order is what I would check, replace and then recheck before moving on:
1: fuel line
2: bowl gasket
3: bottom bowl nut gasket
4: needle seat
The most common problems are a clogged idle jet and a clogged main jet. Let me know how it goes. FYI: You don't have to put on the back shroud to test start it and make sure everything is running smooth.
I have the same model of toro snow blower with the same Mikuni carb but there is a spring on the float on mine. Yours doesn’t have one? I can’t figure out how it goes back on the pin and float.
Thanks so much for your videos. With no prior knowledge of cleaning a carb, I was able to get a Toro 3650 I picked up for $50 starting on 1st pull and running well by following your video. Also cleaned mine has been a hard starthard start. Now it too starts easily on 1st pull. YOU DA MAN brother !!
That's great. I'm glad the video was helpful.
When you see photos of the Toro 81-5820 seat kit, it shows the tube, needle and rubber seat. My question is how does the rubber seat attach to the tube. Is it possible to get it upside down? Is it obvious. Im guessing the seat goes in 1st or is attached to the end of the tube then put in as an assembly. The video does not show this part assembled before insertion into the carb. Thank you!
Main and idle circuits are gummed up. A thorough carb clean like I show will get you back up and going. Let me know how it goes.
thanks now i wont mess up
:)
Hello and hope you are still around. Excellent video. What caused you to believe the needle and seat were the issue. How was it running before you did the carb work?
I hope you are still around.
BTW, my CCR 2000 is from 87. It is now surging or hunting while idling and when under power and load. Seems like it is getting bursts of gas, not consistent gas. Is this just a carb cleaning as you show or is this a needle and seat issue?
Surging is due to a clogged idle jet/idle passage.
@@sixtyfiveford Disconnected and removed the carb as you shown. Cleaned with carb cleaner and running smooth! Great video! Half the battle was getting to the carb in the first place. The main center jet did not come out in one piece. The bottom unscrewed from the top. How do you get the top part out? I had a set of carb wire cleaners I picked up from Amazon. Ran the largest wire I could fit through each hole.
Thanks Steve! It looked like it also could have been slotted, and I did try to put a screwdriver down there....It did not turn. Instead, I'm afraid some of the brass may have broke off at the top. This is basically the only thing that could go wrong that I can't remedy easily.....Any more advice on how to get it out? How about if I spray some WD down there and trying to place needle nose through the side, clamping lightly on that jet (Doesn't it go through the core??) and turning clockwise?
Wow, your videos are genius. My father always talks about these old timers from back in the day that could do and fix anything. Someday, I'll be telling my kids about the guy that could do anything, and he was on UA-cam. Great videos!!!!
Wow, thanks for the flattering comment. -Moe.
Thanks for sharing info for this, very professionally explained.
thanks so much! Just tried to fire up the snowblower and this is my exact model. Nice concise video!
Awesome... I still can't get over your name though.
I didn't reassemble it correctly. The choke handle was working backwards. Thanks!
I cleaned the carb as per your video and got my 1994 CCR2000 running again (thanks!); but it will only run when fully choked. A few seconds after I open the choke the RPMs start to drop, then surge, then the engine stalls. I can keep the engine running by forcing fuel in with quick, light presses on the primer bulb. Does that mean I need to disassemble and clean the main jet again? Would a little Sea Foam Motor Treatment help clean it out?
+John Dollison Your main jet is clogged, more than likely from debris dislodging and getting sucked into it after you cleaned it. It's discouraging but happens once in a while. I think Sea Foam is snake oil, but that's just me.
+sixtyfiveford Success! The Sea Foam wasn't helping, so I cleaned the carb again. I did a few things differently: 1) The main jet had green corrosion on it, so this time I soaked it in CLR cleaner and scrubbed it with a toothbrush until it was brass-colored again. 2) I ran some CLR cleaner through the carb body, in case any brass corrosion had broken free from the jet and got stuck in a circuit somewhere. 3) Last time I used a single strand of copper to clean the jet hole; this time I used about 5 strands (all that would fit without forcing it). 4) The float spring has a straight part that parallels the float pivot pin; last time I had that straight part on top of the metal tabs (where the pin slides through), which adds extra spring tension to the float. This time I moved the straight part of the spring down to the sides of the metal tabs, which lowers the spring tension on the float (it would be easier to show in a picture). I thought that less spring tension would make it easier for the bowl to stay filled at full throttle. (Or maybe it doesn't matter, but I'm not going to take it apart again to find out!)
Good work.
+John Dollison - I too was confused about the position of the spring. When I first took it off, the long straight section of the spring was positioned on the top of the metal tabs (on the bottom when in running position). That's how it was from the last time a shop serviced it. I noticed that this didn't let the float fully drop to the black plastic limiter. I reassembled it with the long part of the spring on the side of the metal tabs, sitting between the tabs and the side of the bowl. It let the float fully drop to the black plastic limiter. It seems to run great, so it must be OK.
Hey-- great video. I followed this to repair my 1988 Toro CCR2000 yesterday and ran it last night to clear about 4" of snow on a couple driveways and it now runs great. My issue was it was hard to start and would stall out unless I pressed the fuel primer to keep it goin- impossible to use to clear snow. Thanks again.
Main jet is partially clogged. Sometimes after you clean it and it is running, it will loosen other debris in the fuel tank and line. These will reclog your main jet.
totally cleaned and replaced needle and seat....the primer is not oem...could that be the issue ?Thanks for your videos help and support....and You look like me when i was younger...hahahahaha.....
The Primer wouldn't cause leaking. Pushing the primer forces air into the bowl of the carb. The fuel is displaced and forced up the emulsion tube into the center of the carb. Multiple primes will cause a drip or so of gas to come out the mouth of the carb(this is normal). But it wouldn't cause continuous leaking. You must be a good lookin guy then.
@Bryan J. Smith.. It sounds like you got it going now. Great.
Thanks for the info.Unfortunatly I screwed up the carb putting the fuel bowl back on,Overtightened and it cracked the body. Any suggestions on where I can buy a rebuilt or new carb ?? Mikkuni model 38180.
richmid1 Ebay is your best bet. A new one will run you $100. JB weld works wonders with little things like this if you have the time and patience. If you just cracked where the large seal is all the way around, some #1 or #2 gasket sealant would put a stop to leaking.
Literally did the same exact thing Friday night. $94 shipped for a new carb on eBay.
Tim Duffy Figured out why mine cracked-there is supposed to be a spcer between the jets and the fuel bowl.There wasn't one-when I cranked it tight it cracked the whole bottom assembly. I saw them on e-bay. Gonna shop around a little. Missed one on KSL.com by 5 minutes that was complete-dammit-it was free.
Free stuff goes fast. People live on these sites grabbing up anything that is free. So just your fuel bowl is cracked?
Thanks, I hope so.
For the models that have the anti vibration spring on the float bowl, is the spring tension holding the float UP or DOWN
Up
@@sixtyfiveford that's what I figured thanks! Have you ever had a problem with surging? I checked all the gaskets, main jet and pilot jet are clean and clear... cant get it to run correctly.
Are the carburetors the same on bigger snow scoot,s
Yes, they are laid out slightly different but all the same passages are there.
SixtyFiveFord, Great how-to-rebuild video. Mine is a 93 vintage model. It just recently started having issues. The engine will start when primed 1 once then die. If I prime it 2 to 3 times it runs longer then dies. The float bowl is full so I am assuming the issue is the main jet or the one on top you referred to is clogged as it doesn't appear to be a flooding issue. I am going to just clean it without doing the needle and seat replacement. Sound like I am on the track??
Thanks for the reply. I removed the governor arm and noticed that the teeth to hold onto the splines of the shaft are completely worn down meaning that the shaft was spinning inside the arm, thus letting the engine run wild. The governor arm has been discontinued and I can't find one anywhere. I guess I will try to cut some groves in the one I have. Thank you very much for your time.
I have never seen that happen, probably why the don't make a replacement arm. Ebay would be your best bet for a used part.
Hello I have a toro ccr 2000 the paddles won't stop spinning always engaged from start up ?? Thanks
+Bk 136 Kiszew Pull off the side belt cover. Your belt is stuck.
I have watched both of your videos. One on the the plastic carb and this one. I need some help. Last year I cleaned the carb. It helped a little bit I had a bad float. So I ordered a carb in Amazon in metal for it. Now it starts great and runs fine without load at idle. The RPMs do not raise when your load it up. I replace the gas, fuel line, filter, and primer bulb. Nothing has made a difference. Only thing I can think of is I hooked up the governor wrong. I have bent the arm to the left and to the right. No change. Do you have any actual pictures of what should go where and how. Please let me know. And thank you in advance.
The rpms should never really change on these machines. It should run 3200-3600rpm all the time whether under load or not.
@@sixtyfiveford how to I check the RPMs
Is there any way I can contact you? I took a video of it running.
@@roccofilippi1418 Can you upload the video to UA-cam?
just checked. new carb for this machine is 196.00. great video.
I followed video cleaned well....after I turn it off thats when the gas fills up air intake...Then it won't start obviously....I was thinkin the primer is holding fuel?....and your also modest as me as well!!!I have had it off and apart 3 times 1 or 2 more won't matter!
Do the mouth pressure test. I always do this before assembly.
With carb off and bowl off:
Hold carb upside down and blow as hard as you can in through the fuel inlet.The weight of the float by itself(do not touch it) should 100% seal. If you hear even the tiniest air leak, gas will leak past. Lift the float and blow (air should pass) then drop it, it should again seal 100%.
In the video you said to not mess with the idle air fuel needle, but mine doesn't have the plastic cap and it's already been messed with. Where should I set it to start, and how do I adjust it to the optimal setting once the engine's running?
+John Dollison Run it all the way in, then back it out 1.5 turns. That's how mine was set from the last time I had it serviced by a shop.
Toro 2000E Had pool of gas on floor. I thought it was from the gas tube to the carb so changed clamp and leak stopped. A while later it looked like the seal above the bowl was leaking and that has now stopped. When I went to start it - it seems like it wants to turn over but doesn't. Carb had gas all over it, is that normal? Do I have to take the carb off? I had such a heck of a time getting the cover back on!! Is there a trick to it??
Pat S Sounds like a dirty carb is flooding the engine. Gas all over is not a good thing. The cover is always tricky getting on and off.
I was running hard today, cleaning the pond off. I ran out of gas, filled it up but I couldn't get it started. Did I flood it?
I don't think I've had this problem before. Only have run about a gallon through it since I cleaned the carb?
thanks
George Deligiannis More than likely the water at the bottom of the fuel froze in the line/ bowl of the carb. Thaw it out, drain the bowl and you should be good to go.
sixtyfiveford I tried it first without opening the bowl and it started after letting it sit for 24 hours.
Great, glad you're up and going again.
Does anyone know the the mixture jet turns out should be? Didn’t count mine
Do 1.5 turns and you'll be good.
ccr2000 idled fine after cleaning, However, rpms don't increase when I engage. Does this need adjustment somewhere or is there no idle speed, just load speed?
elixirpicker1 There is only 1 speed.
I can't get the old brass seat out, maybe it's too cold.
If it is stuck, it is best just to leave it. Trying to force it out will cause more damage and potentially ruin the carb.
sixtyfiveford
but doesn't the needle and seat need to be changed if the carb is flooding and leaking?
Also I bought a new spark plug, the gap on the new plug is smaller than the old plug. Do I have to gap the new one with a gapper?, any ideas on the gap size.
thanks again.
Oh, I thought you were talking about the main jet. The Seat does need to be pulled if it is leaking. Heat can help, also tapping it in further before pulling it out can help loosen it.
Yes you will need to regap the plug to .032"
sixtyfiveford So I replaced the needle and seat, I had trouble getting the old brass one out, I resorted to drilling it out until I could remove the remaining shell and then pulled the rubber part of the seat out. Put in the new steel insert with the rubber seat and replaced the needle on the float. Don't believe i damage the carb drilling the old brass insert out. Replace the plug, gap to .032, added fresh gas. Pulled choke all the way out primed about 5 times. It did start like it was in choke momentarily. second time same thing, then it would not start at all. I'm still seeing a little puddle of fuel beneath the carb after this latest attempt to start it up. Any ideas?
thanks
Priming will cause a small amount of fuel to drip out; this is normal. These generally only need to be primed 1 to 3 times. If fuel continues to leak non stop then you have an issue. You may have temporarily flooded the engine. Turn the choke full off and give it some pulls to clear the flood. Then return it to choke and give it one prime.
Thanks. But you already know how to clean these so I hope you fast forwarded a little.
Wow, sounds like a dealer to me. 99% of the time a rebuild kit is not needed. They just need to be cleaned.
My carb has a spring and I don’t know how to install the spring correctly. Any advice or pictures or video? Brian G
The spring is simply to push the float up. It's ever so slight and was actually only used it for a for years before they abandoned it.
Hi I have a ccr2000 can you tell me if there is a spring for the pulley assembly to keep pulley up till auger is engaged. And if so where is it attached thank
+Bk 136 Kiszew Take your model number and go to Toro's website. There you will be able to see in detail all the parts to your machine.
Cool video! Thanks. My Model 38180 will only run with the choke fully closed. What do I need to do to correct it? Thanks.
My emulsion tube did not come out with the jet, and I think I have started to damage it trying to get it out. Is there a secret trick for this?
The secret is, if it doesn't come out leave it. Spray through everything with carb cleaner over an hour period of time(spray, let sit for 10min, repeat). This will make sure any varnish gas is dissolved and cleaned out.
Seriously bro. Start to finish. Awesome video. Knowledgable and straight to point. No long winded bs we don't need to hear like in many other how to vids on UA-cam.
Awesome, I'm glad it helped.
Suzuki parts are so expensive because they haven’t made the engines in 15+ years. You’re paying for Toro to manufacture obsolete parts. The needle and seat used to only be 7 bucks when they were still in production and not 24 like today.
Great video! Thanks. But i don't think it will help my issue... When I push my choke in my machine idle goes WAY up??? If i pull it back out it's ok, but starts running really rich. It Sounds like a jet engine.... LOL. Can anyone HELP??? Thank you!
mario dilorenzo Your throttle butterfly might be stuck all the way open. Try freeing it up by moving it back and forth.
I'll give that a try. Sounds like it will work. I take good care of my snow blower. Thanks!
sixtyfiveford I can see the butterfly opening and closing with the choke handle... I just sprayed some carb cleaner into carb while running, no luck! Still revs like crazy when I shut off choke.
Not the choke butterfly. The throttle butterfly at the back of the carb next to engine.
sixtyfiveford Got it, the screw on the back of the carb that's hooked up to the tthrottle arm was stuck wide open. Removed it, cleaned it and greased it now runs perfect. Thanks
Awesome. Its to bad the needle/seat kits are so much for these little things.
my ccr2000 won't start and after a couple pulls fuel begins to leak from carb. Thought I did a fairly decent job of cleaning the carburetor and getting everything back together. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks
Needle/seat not sealing
Awesome. Hopefully it helps.
Hi I have a toro ccr 2000 cleaned carb new gas can't get to idle smooth seems to pulsate any ideas ?? Tks
Bk 136 Kiszew Idle jet is partially clogged. This will cause surging of the engine.
Sorry to bother you again. I cleaned the carb on my CCR2000 and it is still surging. I cleaned out all the jets and it still won't run correctly. I installed new fuel line, filter, and gaskets and the problem is still there. Any suggestions? I checked the seat by blowing into it and there are no leaks.
Surging is going to be the idle circuit. At 7:10 I take out the jet and talk about it. You need to make sure fuel is flowing through the passage at 7:55.
@@sixtyfiveford Fuel was coming out of those ports from the start. I just realized however, that the needle snapped off of the adjustment screw and plugged the hole. I have another carburetor that I'm going to try out.
@@sixtyfiveford I've never felt so stupid. I had the pulley off of the engine because I swapped one engine from another body. I put it on and the surge stopped immediately. Thank you.
@@pinomarino8917 I'm glad you got it fixed. The weight of the pulley can make a huge difference.
You should be fine. Rarely is the emulsion tube clogged.
Why not show how to replace cover and remove covers. This is a hard cover to remove and replace thanks
I show it a little more in this video ua-cam.com/video/iLXwYnItPGA/v-deo.html
Awesome, thanks for finding it. I hope I find some more entertaining things to do :)
Does it work
Will it work
Took off cover belt and auger still turns when running and auger cable disconnected !
+Bk 136 Kiszew The belt goes around 2 pulleys (engine and auger) with a middle idler pulley that applies pressure to the center of the belt to tighten it up. The middle idler pulley must be jammed.
Ok.I will try to do that,Thank you.
Thank you so much for the information. I do have a question. You mentioned the little spring. Mine has one, and I didn't take note how it was positioned when I took it apart. Can you explain to me how to put it back on?