I don't find myself in being all that smart sometimes and whenever I would try to follow along with other lightbox tutorials I would inevitably fail at a certain point. For the first time today, I designed and printed a lightbox. Thank you so much.
Brother! Thanks to you I was able to make special Lightboxes for my customer. Now I can make better things and only thanks to you! Yure a great teacher, I would love to see more of your videos and support you somehow. Youre Legend!
Fantastic video I learned a lot, you're easy to understand you explain everything and don't even leave out the small details, fusion was intimidating and it was just too much and there was no easy tutorials to watch, thanks a lot
10/10 recommend this video. I've been through a dozen and none seem to work! Thank you so much for breaking the simple things down that people just assume you already know! 🎉🎉
Well it took me a couple hours but i fully understand it now and can make a lightbox pretty fast and easy. Thank you very much for explaining it so good you really helped me out big time!
I’ve trying to figure out how to make sure all the figures are sealed for a year. This finally solved the mystery for me. Thanks for the video. I’ll try when I get home.
greatly appreciate this video!! I have a question - I hope you can and WILL answer.... Your diffuser you created - will it help with not only the pinholes, but in some places where my light comes through it appears that there are 'streaks' where the filament was either thinner or the headspeed came through quicker ... so it doesn't really look like an even light?? What about a "GREY" color. Mine appears as almost a weird brown. Was mine too thick perhaps? Or what do you recommend?
I like to put the lip on the front and not the back plate, so the walls and the back plate are a single 40 mm unit, and the front plate is only 5 mm thick. Then I have separate profiles for printing each in Bambu. My "Face Plate" prints on tweaked fine settings and the back "Box" is printed at standard or even strength settings. This way the back prints much quicker. The front is only 5mm high so you don't take the chance of losing all those fine printed colors if by chance the print goes wrong half way up the walls. Both ways work though, great vid!!!
I'd like to know also. Having a USB-C plug in is typically higher voltage/current. An old original USB-A cord or even Micro USB would be sufficient for a 5 or 12V light I'd imagine. I'm curious to know the light he's using for sure!!
After the first offset, i select the whole image for the backplate. When i do that it initially highlites the offset, then it goes away only allowing me to make a backplate without the offset. Any ideas?
Had you just created the bodies inside the original component, you could have extruded your diffuser the first try. Since they were all separate components, you would have had to do them one at a time, or by HIDING (not deleting) the components and using your sketch as you had done.
You'd do the exact same thing for the build process. The printing process would be each piece. So instead of loading the front and frame into one plate, you'd load them separately and then you'd have to glue them into the black top piece.
the offset issue annoys me as well, it seems it’s a problem with most CAD software - I use shapr3d mostly; however I never have issues offseting curves in Adobe Illustrator, for example; but still, exporting those offset lines from AI as DWG still leads to issues after importing, albeit a bit less.
sometimes you've got a lot of manual work to do to clean these up in the SVG editor. In the past, I've had to import the image to Fusion360 - and then basically re-trace everything on complicated models to simplify it. Hope that's not the case for you. I hope for your sake it's a quick and easy tidy-up in the editor.
When I was doing my logo, I had a lot of small unconnected lines, so I had to manually go in and create new lines and curved edges in order for it all to connect. It may take a lot of manual work, but in the end it'll be worth it. I had to go around each time I made a new sketch and manually create new lines in order for everything to be closed off and correct.
This tutorial is amazing. Thank you so much.
I don't find myself in being all that smart sometimes and whenever I would try to follow along with other lightbox tutorials I would inevitably fail at a certain point. For the first time today, I designed and printed a lightbox. Thank you so much.
I downloaded inkscape but theres no right side panel to change threshold like yours, how do i enable it? thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. My all Grit Lions light box looks 🔥🔥. What kind of light did you use?
Would shell command do similar. And then paint in bambu studio i wonder?
Brother! Thanks to you I was able to make special Lightboxes for my customer. Now I can make better things and only thanks to you! Yure a great teacher, I would love to see more of your videos and support you somehow. Youre Legend!
Amazing tutorial, i was able to make my first light box using instructions from this video. Thank you!!!
Buscando cientos de tutoriales y con diferencia eres el que mejor lo explica!! muchas gracias!!
Fantastic video I learned a lot, you're easy to understand you explain everything and don't even leave out the small details, fusion was intimidating and it was just too much and there was no easy tutorials to watch, thanks a lot
10/10 recommend this video. I've been through a dozen and none seem to work! Thank you so much for breaking the simple things down that people just assume you already know! 🎉🎉
Dude you are a lifesaver. If I could give you 100 thumsb up, I would!
This may be the best tutorial ive seen yet.
Awesome tutorial, Thank you!
Amazing detail!
Followed this guide and I've finally been able to make my first lightbox! Thanks for doing this tutorial
Would love to see links to the items you used for your light box.
Heey Justin this is such a awesome video. Helped me sooo much. Thank you!!
Great first video Justin! I would like to see the final product once it's done with the lights in. Subbed! 👍
Hey thank you !! Absolutely !
Great video, helped me design my own lightbox
Incredible walkthrough!
Well it took me a couple hours but i fully understand it now and can make a lightbox pretty fast and easy. Thank you very much for explaining it so good you really helped me out big time!
Great video!
THANK A LOT. GOOD JOB JUSTIN. HELLO FROM VENESZUELA
Thank you
I’ve trying to figure out how to make sure all the figures are sealed for a year. This finally solved the mystery for me. Thanks for the video. I’ll try when I get home.
greatly appreciate this video!! I have a question - I hope you can and WILL answer.... Your diffuser you created - will it help with not only the pinholes, but in some places where my light comes through it appears that there are 'streaks' where the filament was either thinner or the headspeed came through quicker ... so it doesn't really look like an even light?? What about a "GREY" color. Mine appears as almost a weird brown. Was mine too thick perhaps? Or what do you recommend?
I like to put the lip on the front and not the back plate, so the walls and the back plate are a single 40 mm unit, and the front plate is only 5 mm thick. Then I have separate profiles for printing each in Bambu. My "Face Plate" prints on tweaked fine settings and the back "Box" is printed at standard or even strength settings. This way the back prints much quicker. The front is only 5mm high so you don't take the chance of losing all those fine printed colors if by chance the print goes wrong half way up the walls. Both ways work though, great vid!!!
Great
What light kit do you use for your lights?
I'd like to know also. Having a USB-C plug in is typically higher voltage/current. An old original USB-A cord or even Micro USB would be sufficient for a 5 or 12V light I'd imagine. I'm curious to know the light he's using for sure!!
love to see the end product
Can you show how to make extra white solid layer behind the logo
Comment est fixé back plate sur black frame pour accrocher au mur ? Cela risque pas de s'ouvrir ?
idk what settings you have on in scape but my threshold thing isnt even a slider its number
You could just extrude the backplate, then offset that by 2.5mm then join
After the first offset, i select the whole image for the backplate. When i do that it initially highlites the offset, then it goes away only allowing me to make a backplate without the offset. Any ideas?
Awesome video....maybe don't say "delete" the (whatever object) and replace with show / hide :)
Hey man. I have some questions and was wondering if you could help. Do you think we'd be able to chat at some point?
Had you just created the bodies inside the original component, you could have extruded your diffuser the first try. Since they were all separate components, you would have had to do them one at a time, or by HIDING (not deleting) the components and using your sketch as you had done.
Thank You....
We need tutorials on how to make these with no AMS or bambu printers. We need a tutorial on how to make these on a simple ender3
There are some out there you have to do shop and change the g code, I beleive...it was too confusing for me.
You'd do the exact same thing for the build process. The printing process would be each piece. So instead of loading the front and frame into one plate, you'd load them separately and then you'd have to glue them into the black top piece.
not onyl a great lightbox tutorial - but a great fusion tutorial to boot!
the offset issue annoys me as well, it seems it’s a problem with most CAD software - I use shapr3d mostly; however I never have issues offseting curves in Adobe Illustrator, for example; but still, exporting those offset lines from AI as DWG still leads to issues after importing, albeit a bit less.
he never said it annoyed him
not even once
im trying to do the Dolphins logo. when I make my SVG I get outlines around everything. any idea how to fix this?
sometimes you've got a lot of manual work to do to clean these up in the SVG editor. In the past, I've had to import the image to Fusion360 - and then basically re-trace everything on complicated models to simplify it. Hope that's not the case for you. I hope for your sake it's a quick and easy tidy-up in the editor.
@@davewoeckener5719I figured it out. In Inkscape I had to select no outline and then trace it. It’s all good now thanks.
When I was doing my logo, I had a lot of small unconnected lines, so I had to manually go in and create new lines and curved edges in order for it all to connect. It may take a lot of manual work, but in the end it'll be worth it. I had to go around each time I made a new sketch and manually create new lines in order for everything to be closed off and correct.
Team Camaro!✊️😎
You’re getting me closer. I cannot see the “points” during my editing. Know how to make that show up? I just see lines.
Justin can you PM me??