I've been working in Fusion for about a year now, and have learned just enough to do basic modeling for my 3D printer. Your style of instruction is SO GREAT! This is the second of your videos that I've watched, and I've already learned so much. Thanks for posting!
I love the way you keep repeating the instructions, and show where the tools are located, and the options that we can take. Th4e fact that I subscribed says it all....
I have learned a lot from this video. It was easy for me to follow your steps. The idea to move the ends of the thread by 70° made my day. Thanks a lot and keep on uploading such great videos.
As a fellow self-taught Fusion user, I'm really glad your channel popped up in my suggested videos! Like many things in Fusion, there's multiple ways to get to the finish line and it's fun seeing different approaches to what I would typically do. It's good to carry alternate methods in our bag of Fusion tricks. One tidbit for you is that when doing circular patterns, you don't need to select just an "axis". You can select any circular face, edge, or sketch line as well.
Thanks for the feedback and I completely agree! I am aware of the other ways to use the circular pattern tool but didn’t want to confuse people so figured I’d just show the axis method. However, that is a great tip, and hopefully people will read the comments (like yours) to learn more!
Hey, I’m in the same boat. I often struggle with many of the techniques shown in this video. But you don’t need to apologize for just recording your presentation live. It’s very nice to see the same mistakes that I often make. The difference however, is that I make a whole lot more. ☹️ Anyway your technique of using coils to create the threads seems a whole easier than what I have seen when using the threads feature. Thanks!
Fantastic - thank you so much! and then I found your video on how can you rotate the lid and know you are at the completely closed position so that you can pattern the whole of the outside including the lid and know it will be a seamless join! You are brilliant! Amazing content !
Awsome, and thanks for taking my advice on showing it printed. Also thanks for adding in the embossing. I'm still new to Fusion360 and have watched HOURS of videos yours till show me some things I didn't know like holding down the mouse button.
also, I swear I don't have a lisp. Lol. For some reason the microphone recorded all of my "sixes" as "thixes" - lol. I really need to figure my audio out
You're using some sort of noise reduction on the audio which is why it sounded like that. Having a more solid setup without noise reduction would be better, but it really wasn't bad at all.
Great job! Excellent description of each step and the big ending with the piece 3d printed. And the ccick Awesome Very thanks and please keep on this track Best regards 👏👏👏
I clicked because I downloaded a jar about 6 months ago that looked EXACTLY like that one and reprinted the lid 3 different times with slight size variations and could never get it to fit correctly enough to be usable for my needs. Could have been because I was using a 1mm nozzle and vase mode due to lack of time, ended up spending too long anyway and just buying something. Thanks for the tutorial. I've only done some basic modeling in onshape but am going to watch some more of your stuff
Thank you. I have been designing a Spaghetti container for my wife and the Fusion Threads were not suitable. Too many turns to tighten or remove the lid. I used your technique, very pleased with the results.
Great video! This Triple-Start thread is really working great. I have printed model actually the same as you but i have one question. There is no click as in yours :( do you know maybe which dimension or feature is responsible for that in this assembly?
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! You answered all my questions and gave me a new style to play with that i've been seeking forever just couldn't figure out for the life of me!! I can't thank you enough :)
How did you "click on the plane" @4:04 to select the plane to create another cylinder with the cylinder tool selected? The plane doesn't highlight until I press ESC to stop using the cylinder tool.. Great video btw!
I double clicked the top of the top left list, and the model turned blue and now it works. It seems I was in a limiting mode/view or something.. Perhaps I should watch some basic lessons not to ask basic things :P
@@ShopTherapy623Thx for your reply! Fortunately I understood that :p However like I said sometimes you can’t click on anything after selecting a tool like cylinder (face, plane whatever). Double clicking the top of the top left list seems to do the trick before selecting a tool. I’m sure I’ll eventually figure out why. I just did both parts of your shampoo cap tutorial and I feel like half an expert now :D I learned so much diving into those videos as a beginner enjoying the challenge. Thanks!
@@Eki39 Awesome to hear! Im glad i am helping you out a little. I'm not sure about the trouble you're having with the faces and planes. Once you select the cylinder tool, you should just be able to hover over the face/plane you want to start on and then click.
Great video. I always had seam challenges with smooth shapes as well... You might try Orca slicer's Scarf joint feature. Ive recently given it a go and when used with a random seam position seams on cylinders nearly vanish.
Been trying to learn fusion. Watched this, super informative. I’ll be watching it again and following along next time I’m practicing. Question though, what makes it have the click at the end?
haha the click is still a mystery! Some people get it and others don't for some reason. I believe at the very end of tightening the lid, the layer lines "click" past each other. Kind of a happy surprise - I didnt design that into it on purpose
A few times I was waiting for you to use the project tool rather than just remembering sizes. Also you can click on diameters instead of axes when doing circular patterns.
Thanks for the suggestions! Yes, I knew all of these "tips" but sometimes it's hard to remember when trying to do a "live" tutorial. I appreciate the comment!
Rather than making the coil as a new body, could you make the coil as a join and then create the circular pattern with object type set to features, selecting the coil and 2 rotations? I think it could circumvent the combine step.
Great video! Will try this soon :) Any idea why the little click happened at the end when screwing the lid in all the way? As far as I could tell, you didn't add any notch.
No, I'm still trying to figure that out! Other people who have printed it, have had the same experience. Maybe the layer lines are lining up perfectly and "clicking" past each other at the end?
Great video! This thread works great! I have followed all your instructions and made the same design as you. But i have one doubt. There is no click :(( Do you know maybe which dimension or feature is responsible for that?
I have some people getting the click and others not getting the click. So I think it has to do with what printer you have and maybe your printer settings. I'm wondering if the "click" is the layer lines sliding past each other at the last moment. I'm not sure.
Very good and easy to follow tutorial. However I am using Solid Works and it was pretty easy to duplicate almost everything - except the coil function. SW have an helix function which can be extruded to a "coil" quite easily. However SW defaults to a clockwise rotation which I didn't noticed until I realized the lid screws on and off in the wrong direction :) When you explain all the different coil settings, you didn't mention the need to be careful and pick counter clockwise as the right direction.
@12:39 I'm not sure you needed to adjust the distance between threads. There was 2.007mm gap at the BASE of the threads which is the thickest part. The part of the lid threads that interact with the base of the container thread is just the narrow peak of the lid thread. If you went back to this model and printed it without changing the width between threads, I'd guess it would thread on perfectly, and with a bit less slop.
Yeah, I realized that as I was saying it, but wanted to show it anyways so people knew to watch out for it when designing their own. But you are correct, it didn’t need to be changed.
The "click" is very odd. I've been getting some people saying its there, and other's its not. It must be something to do with the layer lines, and print settings and not the model itself.
I’m completely new to all this and have a stupid question. Do you move the lid off the base in fusion 360 or in your printer software and how do you do it? Thanks
You can do it either way, but it's probably easier in your slicer. in Fusion, just select the lid and use the move tool (and align tool if you want it perfectly "on the floor"). In your slicer, there should be a button to auto separate them
@@ShopTherapy623 Thanks! I'm gonna give it a shot. I made the jar exactly as you specified then tried to load in an SVG image to emboss it with and fusion crashed before saving 😅 So now I get to watch your video for a 3rd time and make the jar again from scratch this time saving it as I go
The error on the second circular pattern was because you selected the coil from the model and had "Faces" set for the object type. Great video though, and I'm going to use this for all my future designs.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I am really new to using Fusion. Why wouldn't you just make the lid over the section with threads and then just cut the threads from the intersection of the lid cylinder and the thread tenon section? Fusion can't do that?
Fusion definitely can do that, and you can definitely make threads like that. However, I have found that those threads don't work as well when 3D printing. Having two "male" threads, as opposed to a "male" and "female" thread, tends to work much better.
I use this approach a lot with custom threads for 3D printing (like a triangle but with 45; angle), especially if they are too complicated to define. The key here is to use offset face and offset them from each other by a little bit (which is also good to do with the regular F360 threads but anything under i think M16 doesnt let you have a 2mm pitch which i find works very well for printing).
Another great video! At the seven minute mark when you make the coil how is it only half way around I know that i'm missing something. I have played that 07:00 minute several times but I don't know what i'm missing? Please don't change the way you present your videos because it shows that you are human (even the baby crying in the background briefly) 😄 on another video. Never mind I saw it!
I personally don't like any of the basic shapes in coil for this application. The round one is imprecise for the printer and the triangle is too sharp. Square creates overhangs. I have tried a few times to make a custom one by using the triangle edge as a sweep guide rail. Its a hassle but it works. If you do that make sure you define the sketch plane from the path as it has to be correctly tilted. For some reason when i did that i had trouble turning one side with move. Also move often breaks when parameters are changed. I think i ended up cutting it using a plane before combining. I had the coil feature fail on me also when i changed the size of the object underneath which moved the coils center - the coil wouldn't adapt and stayed on place while the object moved. I had to define a plane by a sketch line for the coil that would move with the object. The coil feature could really use a few upgrades, not clinging to any shapes as its defined is annoying. I learnt to use custom parameters for every dimension i use more than once. Id love for it to have a custom shape or allow a sketch to be used.
For this application, the instructions in the video worked without problem for me. I didn't try to make it parametric.. I printed in PETG (which is a bit tougher than PLA) and the threads printed without issue at 0.2 layer height. I looked under microscope at threads and threads looked pretty good. I also wondered about just using the combine on the top part to 'cut' out the threads and offset the face for extra clearance.. but think I like the approach given better.. Would like to know the 'click' secret.. think it might have something to do with the depth of the lip on the base.. if a bit deeper, maybe the threads bottom out and one goes under the other.. might be a way to make a notch in bottom of base thread to lock in..
Couldn't you just use the "jar base" as a cut tool for the lid, keep the tool body, and do an "offset face" and get the same thing? Then you don't need to remember anything about dimensions. IDK... I'm no expert.
I've been working in Fusion for about a year now, and have learned just enough to do basic modeling for my 3D printer. Your style of instruction is SO GREAT! This is the second of your videos that I've watched, and I've already learned so much. Thanks for posting!
I love the way you keep repeating the instructions, and show where the tools are located, and the options that we can take.
Th4e fact that I subscribed says it all....
Thank you for the feedback! I really appreciate the "follow." Hopefully more to come!
That click at the end! So satisfying.
I have learned a lot from this video. It was easy for me to follow your steps. The idea to move the ends of the thread by 70° made my day. Thanks a lot and keep on uploading such great videos.
As a fellow self-taught Fusion user, I'm really glad your channel popped up in my suggested videos! Like many things in Fusion, there's multiple ways to get to the finish line and it's fun seeing different approaches to what I would typically do. It's good to carry alternate methods in our bag of Fusion tricks. One tidbit for you is that when doing circular patterns, you don't need to select just an "axis". You can select any circular face, edge, or sketch line as well.
Thanks for the feedback and I completely agree! I am aware of the other ways to use the circular pattern tool but didn’t want to confuse people so figured I’d just show the axis method. However, that is a great tip, and hopefully people will read the comments (like yours) to learn more!
Hey, I’m in the same boat. I often struggle with many of the techniques shown in this video. But you don’t need to apologize for just recording your presentation live. It’s very nice to see the same mistakes that I often make. The difference however, is that I make a whole lot more. ☹️ Anyway your technique of using coils to create the threads seems a whole easier than what I have seen when using the threads feature. Thanks!
Great video.. did it in PETG.. didn't get that "click" at the end, though.. Printed really well.
Fantastic - thank you so much! and then I found your video on how can you rotate the lid and know you are at the completely closed position so that you can pattern the whole of the outside including the lid and know it will be a seamless join! You are brilliant! Amazing content !
Awsome, and thanks for taking my advice on showing it printed. Also thanks for adding in the embossing. I'm still new to Fusion360 and have watched HOURS of videos yours till show me some things I didn't know like holding down the mouse button.
Great series on different methods for jars with lids and great explanation on the use of the tools, including the embossing! Subscribed!
also, I swear I don't have a lisp. Lol. For some reason the microphone recorded all of my "sixes" as "thixes" - lol. I really need to figure my audio out
Your videos have improved my workflow by a large margin. Great stuff! Love the format where you show any mistakes and how to correct them.
You're using some sort of noise reduction on the audio which is why it sounded like that. Having a more solid setup without noise reduction would be better, but it really wasn't bad at all.
I didn’t notith.
I just found your channel. Subbed and looking forward to going back through your catalog :)
Wonderful explanation and demo, and snippets of information along the way. I've learned so much. Thanks for sharing...I'm subscribed.
Once again, a great video... Love the simplicity... Thanks
Great job! Excellent description of each step and the big ending with the piece 3d printed. And the ccick
Awesome
Very thanks and please keep on this track
Best regards 👏👏👏
One of the best fusion tutorials i've watched! Thanks or sharing!
Thats a perfect content. Worth watching. Waiting for more contents.
To select the axis while patterning, I'm pretty sure you can simply click on the outside or inside of the jar.
Yes you definitely can! I should have showed that, but it’s hard to remember everything when doing a video like this!
@@ShopTherapy623 It was a good tutorial. I looking forward to printing one.
I clicked because I downloaded a jar about 6 months ago that looked EXACTLY like that one and reprinted the lid 3 different times with slight size variations and could never get it to fit correctly enough to be usable for my needs. Could have been because I was using a 1mm nozzle and vase mode due to lack of time, ended up spending too long anyway and just buying something. Thanks for the tutorial. I've only done some basic modeling in onshape but am going to watch some more of your stuff
Thanks, great video.❤
Great video and instructions! Make more stuff please!
Thanks, will do!
Thank you. I have been designing a Spaghetti container for my wife and the Fusion Threads were not suitable. Too many turns to tighten or remove the lid. I used your technique, very pleased with the results.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for making these videos, I have learnt so much from it!
I really appreciate the “super thanks!” I’m glad they are helping you! It’s been fun making them so far, and hopefully I can continue to do so!
Good Job, I followed along and did this in Fusion, and printed it. The one thing I added was to user parameters so its all parametic
Nice! I love making models parametric!
Excellent tutorial. I learned so much from this one tutorial. I'm going to view more.
Great video! This Triple-Start thread is really working great. I have printed model actually the same as you but i have one question. There is no click as in yours :( do you know maybe which dimension or feature is responsible for that in this assembly?
same :( no click here
Great video. Something else that I've learned, thanks for sharing. 🙂
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! You answered all my questions and gave me a new style to play with that i've been seeking forever just couldn't figure out for the life of me!! I can't thank you enough :)
How did you "click on the plane" @4:04 to select the plane to create another cylinder with the cylinder tool selected? The plane doesn't highlight until I press ESC to stop using the cylinder tool.. Great video btw!
I double clicked the top of the top left list, and the model turned blue and now it works. It seems I was in a limiting mode/view or something.. Perhaps I should watch some basic lessons not to ask basic things :P
@@Eki39it might be confusing because I used the word “plane”. I did not click on a plane there, I clicked on a face (or surface).
@@ShopTherapy623Thx for your reply! Fortunately I understood that :p However like I said sometimes you can’t click on anything after selecting a tool like cylinder (face, plane whatever). Double clicking the top of the top left list seems to do the trick before selecting a tool. I’m sure I’ll eventually figure out why. I just did both parts of your shampoo cap tutorial and I feel like half an expert now :D I learned so much diving into those videos as a beginner enjoying the challenge. Thanks!
@@Eki39 Awesome to hear! Im glad i am helping you out a little. I'm not sure about the trouble you're having with the faces and planes. Once you select the cylinder tool, you should just be able to hover over the face/plane you want to start on and then click.
Very helpful! made one start to 3D print. Some very helpful tricks! Thanks!
What I like most is the snap when the lid is screwed on. Was this on purpose or just lucky design?
Nice teacher thank you ❤
Great video and very helpful. Good to hear an American using mms.
Great video.
I always had seam challenges with smooth shapes as well... You might try Orca slicer's Scarf joint feature. Ive recently given it a go and when used with a random seam position seams on cylinders nearly vanish.
Thanks for the tip! Definitely going to try that. I use Bambulabs slicer and random seam looks absolutely awful.
Learned a lot, thanks!
Been trying to learn fusion. Watched this, super informative. I’ll be watching it again and following along next time I’m practicing. Question though, what makes it have the click at the end?
haha the click is still a mystery! Some people get it and others don't for some reason. I believe at the very end of tightening the lid, the layer lines "click" past each other. Kind of a happy surprise - I didnt design that into it on purpose
@@ShopTherapy623 well hopefully mine clicks when I print it! Love a good click when tightening a lid!
Great tutorial, thank you.
A few times I was waiting for you to use the project tool rather than just remembering sizes. Also you can click on diameters instead of axes when doing circular patterns.
Thanks for the suggestions! Yes, I knew all of these "tips" but sometimes it's hard to remember when trying to do a "live" tutorial. I appreciate the comment!
Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing it! 🎉
Awesome job and tutorial, thanks a lot!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Congrats on the 1K Subs . Keep it up. I enjoy your Content! ✌
Thank you!
Super! I try that now! Thanks.
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Great tutorial, exactly what I needed for my model, thank you very much :)
Thank you, very helpful, nice and clear, great results!
Nice teacher! Thanks a lot!
Glad you liked it!
Rather than making the coil as a new body, could you make the coil as a join and then create the circular pattern with object type set to features, selecting the coil and 2 rotations? I think it could circumvent the combine step.
Yes you could. I always set to “new body” in case I want to tweak them before joining.
@@ShopTherapy623 Thank you for clarifying! Great tutorial
Nice video! 🙌👏🏻
Not a Fusion360 user, but I really found this video very helpful. Keep the great work going.
Great video! Will try this soon :)
Any idea why the little click happened at the end when screwing the lid in all the way? As far as I could tell, you didn't add any notch.
No, I'm still trying to figure that out! Other people who have printed it, have had the same experience. Maybe the layer lines are lining up perfectly and "clicking" past each other at the end?
@@ShopTherapy623 Could be. Might try to figure it out once I get around to making/printing one of these threads :) Thanks for the video, subbed!
Great video! This thread works great! I have followed all your instructions and made the same design as you. But i have one doubt. There is no click :(( Do you know maybe which dimension or feature is responsible for that?
I have some people getting the click and others not getting the click. So I think it has to do with what printer you have and maybe your printer settings. I'm wondering if the "click" is the layer lines sliding past each other at the last moment. I'm not sure.
@@ShopTherapy623 ok, thank you for such a quick reply! :)
Great Vid! I learned a lot! 🤘😎
What in the design causes it to "click tight" at the end?
that's a secret! (I have no idea - lol)
Goog job. 👍👍
Hi Great video, printed te box, but no click, any tips ? thx Rob
The click wasn't planned. I'm not sure how or why some get it and some don't!
Quick question, were the lid and jar printed separately? 25:27
No, printed at the same time on the same plate.
Most excellent video...
Very good and easy to follow tutorial.
However I am using Solid Works and it was pretty easy to duplicate almost everything - except the coil function. SW have an helix function which can be extruded to a "coil" quite easily. However SW defaults to a clockwise rotation which I didn't noticed until I realized the lid screws on and off in the wrong direction :)
When you explain all the different coil settings, you didn't mention the need to be careful and pick counter clockwise as the right direction.
Yes I should have covered that! In Fusion that is the default, so forgot to mention it.
Great. Thank you
@12:39 I'm not sure you needed to adjust the distance between threads. There was 2.007mm gap at the BASE of the threads which is the thickest part. The part of the lid threads that interact with the base of the container thread is just the narrow peak of the lid thread. If you went back to this model and printed it without changing the width between threads, I'd guess it would thread on perfectly, and with a bit less slop.
Yeah, I realized that as I was saying it, but wanted to show it anyways so people knew to watch out for it when designing their own. But you are correct, it didn’t need to be changed.
super awesome
Great video and it turned out great first go. No click with mine, though.
The "click" is very odd. I've been getting some people saying its there, and other's its not. It must be something to do with the layer lines, and print settings and not the model itself.
I’m completely new to all this and have a stupid question. Do you move the lid off the base in fusion 360 or in your printer software and how do you do it? Thanks
You can do it either way, but it's probably easier in your slicer. in Fusion, just select the lid and use the move tool (and align tool if you want it perfectly "on the floor"). In your slicer, there should be a button to auto separate them
@@ShopTherapy623 Thanks! I'm gonna give it a shot. I made the jar exactly as you specified then tried to load in an SVG image to emboss it with and fusion crashed before saving 😅
So now I get to watch your video for a 3rd time and make the jar again from scratch this time saving it as I go
@@LurkerPatrol Dang, that sucks! Yes, definitely save as often as possible - lol. Fusion is awesome but has a tendency to become "overwhelmed."
genioooooooooo. gracias!!!!!!!!
Awesome! Subscribed
Gracias!!
Print settings like layer height, Infill
I usually stick with 0.2mm layer height, with a 10-15% Gyroid infill. 2-4 walls depending on how strong I need it to be.
@ShopTherapy623 Thanks for the quick reply. Helpfull contents.
The error on the second circular pattern was because you selected the coil from the model and had "Faces" set for the object type. Great video though, and I'm going to use this for all my future designs.
Thanks for the info!
Not that there's anything WRONG with having a lisp... Nice video, thanks.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I am really new to using Fusion. Why wouldn't you just make the lid over the section with threads and then just cut the threads from the intersection of the lid cylinder and the thread tenon section? Fusion can't do that?
Fusion definitely can do that, and you can definitely make threads like that. However, I have found that those threads don't work as well when 3D printing. Having two "male" threads, as opposed to a "male" and "female" thread, tends to work much better.
@@ShopTherapy623 Appreciate the reply, thank you. And also, nice video.
I use this approach a lot with custom threads for 3D printing (like a triangle but with 45; angle), especially if they are too complicated to define. The key here is to use offset face and offset them from each other by a little bit (which is also good to do with the regular F360 threads but anything under i think M16 doesnt let you have a 2mm pitch which i find works very well for printing).
I want to try and make it see how well the triples work, wheres the file? 🤩
It’s on Makerworld. Search for “Dfreshkremer”
Another great video! At the seven minute mark when you make the coil how is it only half way around I know that i'm missing something. I have played that 07:00 minute several times but I don't know what i'm missing?
Please don't change the way you present your videos because it shows that you are human (even the baby crying in the background briefly) 😄 on another video. Never mind I saw it!
On first coil I get "Failed to build coil tool Body" error
Try changing the order in which you change the coil parameters. Change the diameter of the coil to 2mm before changing the other settings.
Bonjour même pour une personne francophone da aide beaucoup + 👍
Heowdi. I did print this (thanks) but it wouldn't close. Let me slow it right down and try again. 😊😊😊
*click*
"Nice."
I personally don't like any of the basic shapes in coil for this application. The round one is imprecise for the printer and the triangle is too sharp. Square creates overhangs.
I have tried a few times to make a custom one by using the triangle edge as a sweep guide rail. Its a hassle but it works. If you do that make sure you define the sketch plane from the path as it has to be correctly tilted.
For some reason when i did that i had trouble turning one side with move. Also move often breaks when parameters are changed. I think i ended up cutting it using a plane before combining.
I had the coil feature fail on me also when i changed the size of the object underneath which moved the coils center - the coil wouldn't adapt and stayed on place while the object moved. I had to define a plane by a sketch line for the coil that would move with the object. The coil feature could really use a few upgrades, not clinging to any shapes as its defined is annoying. I learnt to use custom parameters for every dimension i use more than once. Id love for it to have a custom shape or allow a sketch to be used.
My method works flawlessly every time. I've never had problems with it once
For this application, the instructions in the video worked without problem for me. I didn't try to make it parametric.. I printed in PETG (which is a bit tougher than PLA) and the threads printed without issue at 0.2 layer height. I looked under microscope at threads and threads looked pretty good. I also wondered about just using the combine on the top part to 'cut' out the threads and offset the face for extra clearance.. but think I like the approach given better.. Would like to know the 'click' secret.. think it might have something to do with the depth of the lip on the base.. if a bit deeper, maybe the threads bottom out and one goes under the other.. might be a way to make a notch in bottom of base thread to lock in..
Couldn't you just use the "jar base" as a cut tool for the lid, keep the tool body, and do an "offset face" and get the same thing?
Then you don't need to remember anything about dimensions. IDK... I'm no expert.
Yes absolutely! Sometimes when doing these “live” (no cuts) videos, I get brain farts and do things not quite so efficiently.
this video doesn't deserve to be free try putting this content on Udemy its worth it
Great video and instructions! Make more stuff please!