For those wondering what are the differences and common points between the 611 and the 311, here is a summary: - they are made in the same factory - with the same type and the same quality of wood - they share the same tuners and the same pots - they share the same build quality In a nutshell, there is a common base for both instruments, but: - the 611 has a glossy finish where the 311 has a satin finish (question of taste, no quality impact, but satin finish is cheaper to produce). - the 611 has graphtech string savers saddles (yes, it is better). - the 611 has a flame mapple veneer on its top (no impact on the sound or on the quality, but is better looking and costs a bit more). - the 611 has a translucent finish (no impact on the sound or on the quality, but is better looking and costs a bit more. The wood is also selected based for its visual aspect). - the 611 has Seymour Duncan pickups (yes, it is better) - the stock bridge pickup of the 311 is "bad", or at least not balanced with the P90. ATTENTION: the 311 often comes with a worse factory setting than the 611. This review is based on both guitars set the same way by myself, what decreases a lot the feeling of difference in playability between both models So is the 611 "better" than the "311"? YES, the 611 is better than the stock 311. Does the 611 worth twice the price of the 311? NO, so the 311 is the best quality/price ratio, or the best value for money, especially if you replace the stock bridge pickup. So, I hope this will stop the "haters" writing non sense comments, anyway I will not publish them.
So basically if you put graphtec saddles on the 311 and a pickup change you end up with the same guitar more or less. No way i’d pay double for the 611 imho.
I bought the 311h natural satin finish based on this video. I played a 611 and honestly I prefer the 311, I prefer an unfinished neck and the 611 has a lacquered neck. I also love natural guitars and as nice as the root beer flame looks it's a little on the flashy side for my taste. I know the stock humbucker is weak but it doesn't sound bad and when it's full humbucker it's a nice vintage voiced PAF style humbucker. Never the less I wanted my new good guitar to be a great guitar so I upgraded the bridge to a Seymour Duncan JB SH4. The thing is insane now, while the split coil sounds great and just as good as any single coil, as a humbucker it's a very noticeable difference in volume and overall growl. It's to the point that I consider it like an overdrive pedal. I play split for clean crisp tones and instead of hitting the tube screamer I just push down the pot and I get crunch and volume. I'm sure if I lowered the bridge pickup I can get it to be more balanced but for right now I think it's pretty cool as it is. I think with my new pickup it sounds like an SG at the bridge, split coil more like a Tele, middle split it sounds like a strat and neck is almost like a Jazzmaster. It has a longer scale so the strings are tight and percussive like a Jazzmaster and the P90 tone is similar to JM pickup sound. I also swapped out the saddles for brass. I really love this guitar!
Hello @AdrianMutu87 , I tried the 120H in a shop a couple of years ago, but I could not tell you how it compares with the 311H. At that time I compared it to the Ibanez RG321MH, and I decided to buy the Ibanez. So unfortunately It would be difficult for me to help you on that point.
great review- I ended up buying both .... I'm keeping the 311 stock because low output pickups work great with pedals- for me - but your upgrade makes sense for the in between sound -thanks for a great video..
I had the 311H VW. Upgraded it with the Seymour TB-14 bridge. Since bought a 612VII FM. Still own & play both. Both are great. I wanted the satin neck and opaque white in the 311H. I like the steel saddles too, although could swap them for Wilkinson alloy or brass if preferred inexpensively enough, GraphTech too, but they're silly money, and fortunately, I don't want. I do my own setups so both actions feel the same, satin vs gloss neck finishes notwithstanding. Love 'em both.
General comment on guitar tops: - a veneer ( a thin slice of wood, circa 0.3~0.4 mm thickness) does not influence the sound. - a real guitar top made of plain wood (for example 3/4" of maple on top of a 1.5" mahogany body) will influence the acoustic response of a solid body guitar (so it will not sound the same than a model made of plain mahogany only). - whether the pickups will transmit this acoustic difference or not may depend on the model of pickups. In general I would say that it will, at least partially, whatever the type of pickup (piezo, ceramic, …). Anyone who already built a guitar can tell you that. Sometimes it can mostly affect harmonics and be difficult to be heard at first glance.
I have the 311 and couldn't agree more with your verdict. Great advice on the bridge pickup. It's a terrible match. The Yamaha (actually G&B) alnico V P90 is beautiful, however - as good as the SD of the 611? Probably, I'd say.
Hello, the G&B P90 is almost equal to the SD. I would say that it has a little bit less trebble (high E string beyond the 12th fret), but it's hardly noticeable.
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I am currently looking at which Pacifica to buy and your review has been very helpful. Much appreciated.
I have the 611vhm and played the 311 and the differences are like night and day.The 611 is a class A guitar with so great sounding pickups ,harmonics the feel,everything it's the flagship mod l f the Pacifica range.Love it.311h is not bad at all,played one and really like it,but after owning the 611 I can the differences.But yeah the 311 is a great guitar.
I've got a 612VII and 311H. Both are first class guitars. Primary difference between 611H & 311H are just the pickups. Both necks are superb, just different preference feel finishes. Same with the saddles. Steel or graphite, both good. Agree on the pickups. Seymours are a cut above. I put a TB-14 in my 311H. Pretty close to a 611H performance now, identical effectively on the bridge only saddle impact on tonal differences excepted. Happy with the G&B P90. If they'd made a 611H in opaque white with a satin neck I'd probably have bought it, and may have swapped the saddles out.
Great review, I'm getting the 311 based on your info. You play very well I might add for me just getting started and wanted the right guitar to serve me well as I advance.
If you're familiar with the dry switch on the Revstar guitars you could change the split to a filtered "dry" switch to make the humbucker sound like a single or p90 without a volume drop when you use the push pull. I like the G&B P90 pickups. Had them on an old prs se they sounded great. PRO touring guys use them with major acts and really like them. I'd probably put the screemin demon in the bridge. It splits well but still retains that classic paf type tone just a little hotter.
I have this guitar and it's great. I am also planning on replacing the bridge humbucker. I just wanted to ask the sizing of the replacement? Did you get a fender or Gibson sized replacement pickup to match the routing?
Very fair comparison. Thanks for the review. Which one is nicer to be played? Is it the one with satin finish or with glossy finish? Cheers from Indonesia.
@@xophedebxI like satin finish fornthe neck too. And most people that I ask answere the same. It is more smooth and easy to move around the neck. Thanks for the quick reaponse. I am still thinking to buy relecaster classic vibe (now it is more eliminated), yamaha pac 611 or yamaha 311 (unfortunately no tremolo).
Thanks a lot for the great review ... gonna change the stock humbucker on 311H soon, just wonder if it is a good idea to use DiMarzio DP 155FBC with the nickel cover from the stock one or how it might affect the DiMarzio's response ... as far I know there is no variant of DiMarzio DP 155FBC with the Nickel cover available and I like the stock look of 311H black. Thanks.
Hello, I do not think that the spacing of the holes of the stock G&B cover will be compatible with the Tone Zone F spacing. You might end with a small misalignment.
I bought the Vintage White 311h - it is Awesome! For everyone's information the P90 route isn't deep enough for a Seymour Duncan P90. The stock P90 is fairly decent though, and you could rewind it or change magnets. The stock humbucker is insanely poor though as described It measured about 4.7 or 9.7kohm depending on which of the combination of 3 wires (Red, White, Bare) The Tone pot is only a 250k, swapping out for a 500k might help. The 0.022uf cap seems ok and the volume pot is a small 500k alpha which is ok.
Now I've had mine a little while. Love the slinky satin neck. The stock G&B humbucker tone isn't too bad IMO. It's just that "where did all that the volume go?" underwhelming moment when you flip to humbucker only that accenuates it to seem so. Agree that it's definitely a mismatch vs the 611H pairing. Do you know if a Seymour Duncan TB-14 Custom 5 Trembucker is a plug 'n play fit? It's easier to source from here than a cream or nickel DiMarzio DP155F, and about the same price. Copy the routing comment re mod fit of a SD P90. It's weird that Yamaha would actually route the 311H body front PUP slot differently from the 611H!
+xophedebx Thank you. That's great news. It was the routed space and mounting points which were of concern. I suppose I shouldn't have blurred the question with the plug 'n play phrase. Simple electronics soldering like this isn't any problem at all. Seymour Duncan it is then.
Honestly the pickup isn't bad. It's vintage voiced and low output but its ok just not great. I have a custom 5 in the bridge of a Les Paul and it sounds really bright, I'm a little concerned how bright it would sound in the 311. I don't need to coil split the humbucker but would like a little more volume and character. I'm not a fan of ceramic or overly bright pickups, I like a thicker balanced tone with a little sparkle in the bridge, any suggestions?
Hello, What is the distance between the pickup and the e and E strings? I often set the bridge pickup height (string pushed on the last fret) with a difference of 1mm (ex 2.4 mm of spacing with the low E string and 3.5 mm of spacing with the high e string). This makes the pickup sound less bright and more fat.
Hello, I do not know the Gretsch G2655-P90 JR DC. It looks like a Gibson ES, so there is no comparison possible with the Yamaha Pacifica, these models are too different IMO.
Would you recommend the 311H if i'm planning to change the pickups anyway ? It sounds like you pay mostly for the seymour duncan pickups.I googled the 501V and missed out on it, so i want to build it myself with the same single puckup etc, but hardtail.
Yamaha should probably pay you commission. 👍 Pretty sure your review has closed the sale on one or the other of these guitars for them many times.... It certainly helped me decide between 611 and 311 to push the buy button. A well done helpful review. So thanks. P.S. Love your guitar strap colour and pattern. Which brand/pattern is it, ...if you wouldn't mind sharing?
Hello, thanks for your comment :-) Most of my guitar straps are Ibanez models, with mediator slot (very convenient), bought on Amazon. This one is a Ibanez GST512ML-BG (10€ ~ 12$).
+xophedebx Thanks again. I hadn't realised that its pattern was actually a monogram "Ibanez" script until your response. It looked like a repeated geo pattern theme to these old eyes viewed on my 9.7" tablet screen. Regardless, it certainly looks appealing on both of those guitars' colour schemes with the off white/creme and brown contrast just the right understated colour tones. I like it very much.
What a great video, exactly what I needed to help me decide between the 2. Would you say the build quality or rather quality control is the same for both guitars or does the 611 have an edge there?
Thank you. Based on my experience with these guitars, I would say that the quality control was, at that time, slightly better on the 611, or better said, the out of factory set up was better on the 611. Anyway, quality control may vary from one guitar to another. Once the 311 set up properly to my own taste, the difference in playability between both guitars was gone. Do not forget that this video is already 6 years old now, so I could not swear that the situation is the same today.
Hello, Thank you for this review. I will probably buy a 311 (because of the satin finish neck) but I have 2 questions : - about the electronics : did yamaha use exactly the same quality/brand for the other components (potentiometers, capacitor, selector) for these 2 models... or the 311 has cheaper ones too ? - the finish of the 611 is more "advanced" (flame top, painted headstock, translucent lacquer) and it has 3 better hardware parts (2 "better"/expensive microphones, graphite saddles) but, otherwise, is the 311 on par with the 611 ? Same quality craftsmanship (how the frets are ajusted, ...) and same quality for the woods... or the 311 feel cheaper ? Does it really feel like they come from the same factory with the same quality standards or not really ?
Hello, The pots, switch and wires are identical. All the electronic components are identical (except the pickups). Wood quality on par and craftsmanship looks equal. Factory is the same I suppose.
Then, as you said in your conclusion, this guitar is the best value for money.... Clearly ! (For my part, I will certainly buy a second-hand humbucker to upgrade it. It will be cheaper) Thank you, xophedebx. Now, I'm sure it's the 311 that I want.
Hi! First of all , great video. I wanted to ask about your opinion on something.I'm about to buy a new guitar and i'm looking into the yamaha pacifica 611 and fender standard strat MN.The reason i would go for the yamaha is because this model doesnt have tremolo and i think it would stay better in tune because of this..What's your opinion about this matter and what would you recommand ?
Hello, In my opinion, the biggest difference between the 611 and the sdt strat is the radius of the fingerboard. Most std strat have a radius of about 9,5", where the 611 has a radius of circa 13". So the fingerboard of the 611 is much more flat than the one of the strat and you can set a lower action without compromising bends on the e string. Regarding your question about the tremolo, if your tremolo is set properly and if your strings are mounted the right way, a std strat will remain in tune without any problem, so this would not be a reason not to go for the strat IMO.
Hey. I am going to buy the Yamaha Pacifica 311H but I know nothing about electric guitar amplifiers. I want one in a reasonable prise (100-150 €). Can you please give me some advice?
Hello, As for everything, it will dépend on what your are looking for: are you looking for a small amp to play at home, or a first amp to play with friends in a band, etc. For a first amp to play at home: get a low power solid state amp with some built in effects, headphone jack, audio input for backing tracks, 2 channels. There are plenty out of there, so choose a 15~25 watt amp within the range of your preferred brand. Here are 2 examples: Fender Combo Mustang I V2, Marshall MG15 CFR/CFX If you do not need to play through a loudspeaker (in other terms if you plan to play only with headphones), a good alternative could be a pedal board multieffect for guitar, as a Zoom G3 or G3n (or equivalent like Boss GT1). This would give you a lot of sounds, a drum machine, a looper, etc. But it could also be too complex for a first approach of the sound chain. Regards
Nice review. Thanks. Question: Currently, Revstar RS420 and Pacifica 311H are both selling for around $300. What do you think is a better value and which one offers more versatility? Thanks again for your honest review.
@@xophedebx Thank you for your answer! Reviewers most of the time don't comment on neck dive. I'm looking for my 1st guitar and this is a big deal in my opinion for a beginner. Gonna go with 311H. Seems a really good buy choice. Wish you all the best with your channel!
Hey! i bought the 311h a couple weeks ago, i love that guitar, but it has a small problem, it has a small hum, but when i touch any metal that is connected somehow to the electronics, it stops, except the pickup selector, if i touch that it gets louder. I was wondering if maybe you know what could cause this problem.
Hello, This is a "ground" connection issue. In a regular circuitry, all metal parts not soldered to the "+" or the "-" are connected to the ground. So a little hum is something normal, and as soon as you touch the strings, the bridge, or any metal piece connected to the ground, the hum is canceled by your body, this is a regular behaviour. What is abnormal in your case is the noise when touching the pickup selector. This means that you have a problem with the circuitry. Let it review by your local shop if you do not feel confident with electronics.
xophedebx Don't get me wrong, it still has the elctronic problem, but is also has a twisted neck, so it has buzz and hum :( guess im unlucky with guitars :D
Hello, The PAF PRO (www.dimarzio.com/node/2137) has a resistance of 8.4k ohm. So the output will not be high enough in the bridge position, especially when splitted (4.2 Kohm). IMO you should not go under a DC resistance of 12 or 14 k ohm if you want a good balance between the P90 and the humbucker. I think a good old DP100 Super Distortion would be great www.dimarzio.com/node/2114
Tonezone doesn't sound very good when split. It's really more of a shredder pickup. Very good on certain guitars but for this I would probably go with a DiMarzio Airzone or get the Seymour Duncan SH14 that is fitted in the 611 HFM. Also resistance is only an indication of the output power, to compare properly you need to look at the mV output.
Hello, I agree with you. Regarding the Tone Zone, it's a way for me not to have the same type of sound than on my 611, otherwise it would not be interesting to get both models.
+ Xaver von Treyer Thanks for the recommendation. A comment of the 611's bridge PUP guys. Said with intent of being a helpful pedant rather than a 'know it all'. Yamaha's websites internationally specify the stock bridge PUP fitted to the entire 61x series including the 611H as the *TB-14* Trembucker, Seymour Duncan's equivalent to DiMarzio's F spaced. The *SH-14* is the Seymour Duncan's *Standard spaced* Humbucker. I measured my 311H's string width 6th to 1st at the saddle which is > 2" confirming the Trembucker is the *Seymour Duncan recommended fit* for the 311H reaffirming Yamaha's spec for the 61x series. I only know this because I'm a "measure twice, cut once" type of guy who's about to press buy and perform the upgrade myself on my 311H. I'm going with the TB-14 as I don't have a 611H and want to try and replicate as close to the same tones as achievable with the G&B P90/SD TB-14 combo that I can achieve.
@Xaver von Treyer Could you elaborate upon *why* you say "Tonezone doesn't sound very good when split. It's really more of a shredder pickup." please? Not looking to criticise you/your comment, but to understand. Reason for my question. it contradicts what DiMarzio claim in their website spiel about the DP155, specifically that; "It makes a great match with an Air Norton™, PAF Joe™, or PAF Pro®, and *split-coil mode produces an excellent single-coil sound as well* ". Yes I appreciate every manufacturer has a vested self interest in marketing self promotion spin, but at the same time, it also behoves keeping it factual if wanting to maintain a dependable & quality reputation. I'm about to buy and trying to choose between fitting the DiMarzio DP155F or the Seymour Duncan TB-14 in my 311H which will be paired with the OEM fitted neck G&B 117 IV P90. Both DM & SD PUPs are about the same price to my location. Either are available. I note xophedebx's "I agree with you" remark in reply to your post I am enquiring about. Clearly both of you are far more erudite on this issue than I, so any & all guiding input from either or both of you would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hello, I said "I agree with you" about the fact that the resistance is only an indication about the output power. Regarding the Tone Zone, it's a question of taste and a question of settings. I got great results even when splitted, but it's a personal opinion.
Thanks. If I only brought away one thing from my research into 'which to install?' evident from researching manufacturer websites and forum opinion, it would be how individually subjective aural perception of tonality is.
Wanted to ask a related question... would a SUHR ALDRICH 53MM BRIDGE ZEBRA be a Good choice, saying that it's used in 2k priced Suhr guitars? BTW i just bought my 311 Thanks to you! now in the process of picking a Bridge pickup :)
Hello Billy, the finish does impact the feel (the satin finish feels more "thin" than the glossy finish). Otherwise, when the guitars are set the same way, the playability is the same.
+xophedebx Can you confirm if the DiMarzio F spacing DP 155 humbucker's magnet spacing is identical to that of the OEM G&B G113-1's? Presumably F spacing is correct, as you used it ✔ ....and it's what DiMarzio recommend for bridge in most instances according to the FAQ on their website. I haven't a 611 or 311 bridge here yet to measure empirically per the spec recommendations in their FAQ. I ask because you mentioned elsewhere in response to another enquiry that you didn't re-use the original's chrome cover because of "different spacing". I surmised you were probably referring to the parameters of the spacing of the mount holes in each brand's respective mounting bracket? Apppreciate your attention to detail that counts, and the first hand user account balance in your review.
Hello, the F spacing is the version you should use in the bridge position. The original G&B spacing is somewhere in between the regular spacing and the F spacing.I would call it a "bridge-neck" spacing, what enables cheap pick-ups to be mounted in both positions. So the cover cannot be re-used indeed.
i just make love with my three Yamaha Pacifica 112Vs, having owned the 611HFM...: them Graphtech nuts wear off ( Guthrie Govan ), sooner than one thinks!... Graphtech HAS white ones, I tried one once on one of me Pacs and it was trying to turn Yamaha Pacifica 112V into somthin tele..., If and when I get money, Ill be buying the Yamaha Pacifica 112V ( that would be my fourth one, hopefully the United Blue specimen!), yesterdaynight I was considering the Yamaha pacifica hh version, butt because of the hard tail! ( the life of a Millioinar must be tempting), itll remain aye mystery for me,one cool factor thou with the HH is that both humbucks are splittable, this been written id buy a hard tail in one nano second, the coilsplit function with both pickups is a killer spec..., breathing air, Kimmo...
Hello, I am certain you can get a very nice 120H with the right setting and a couple of branded pickups. The original PU were quite noisy when splitted , as far as I remember. I compared it to the Ibanez RG321MH at that time, and I went for the Ibanez.
can you help me, i cant decide wich one to buy.. the 611 or 612v ii. Some people say the 612 is not worth the money and the single pickups sound like a cheap squier strat pickups. I play 80s metal, hard rock, jazz fusion and some modern metal shredding and sweep picking.
Well, I would say none of them will 100% fit for metal, shredding, trash metal purposes. 611 would be better for blues rock, 612 for blues funk, both for jazz fusion. Both could fit for metal with other pickups. I would advize to have a look at other models or brands (Yamaha RGX 420, Ibanez RG, ... there are plenty of possibilities). This is of course just my own opinion.
To answer you next comment " Well Iment classicmetal from the 80s like iron maiden, judas priest and not black metal, death metal etc... I dont know is the neck on the yamaha good enough for fast playing and shreddung? I fckn love the look of that guitar it looks too amazing" I would say yes, taking note that : the radius is about 14" (so it's quite a flat neck, what means that the strings Can be set close to the fretboard), the neck shape is quite equal to a Highway Strat 2007 (C shape), the frets are thin (not jumbo) and the SD Custom 5 is a nice humbucker for distortion.
My thoughts exactly given that the PAC612Vs have SD PUPs in all positions including the same TB-14 at the bridge as the rest of the range. Even as a relative re-n00b, even I can see no one guitar is going to meet some people's irrational criteria. Expecting any instrument to excel in all genres is an unrealistic expectation, or to perform all genres is a compromise accepting mediocrity in some if not a majority of them. Personally I prefer a the correct fit ring or open spanner to a shifting spanner if I have a bolt to undo. Doesn't matter whether it's a bicycle, motorcycle, guitar or aircraft, the right tool for the right job. I wouldn't expect an Airbus A320 to glide like an 18metre Schemp-Hirth Discus 2c or either to roll, turn and cope with 'g' like a Su-31M2!
I tried in the shop 611 and the lacquered neck is such a drawback. Hand is sticking to it, can't play fast. Although sounds nice I find it hard to play.
Hello, this can happen with most guitars in a shop, as anybody can try them and the neck is often "sticky" due to dirt. I clean my guitars everytime I use them, using a soft polish and afterwhile GHS Fast Fret on both strings and bottom of the neck.
You have to unsolder the current wires of the pickup and solder the wires of the new one based on the diagram provided by the manufacturer. If you do not feel confident, it's better to require some help from a friend.
I want test this Dimarzio Tone Zone in my Pac 311h. You changed this pickup yourself? If you did it yourself give me some tips please. Any problems with push pull coil split?
Yes I did it myself, but I'm used to do that (I already built guitars, basses and electric violins from A to Z). Here are the steps in a nutshell: remove the strings (unbend the trussrod if you leave the guitar quite a long time without strings. It's OK to leave the trussrod like that for a couple of hours, not more). Unscrew the back plate. Remove the knobs, unscrew the 3 way switch and the pots. Protect the lacquer and unsolder the wires from the current humbucker ( take note of the pins where they are soldered): ground, positive on the 3 way switch and split on the pot. Unscrew the mounting plate and unscrew the humbucker. Screw the Tone Zone on the plate. Screw the humbucker plate. Solder the black+white on the split pot. Solder the red on the 3 way switch. Solder the green + bare to ground (volume pot ground is OK). Check signal is OK. Screw the back plate. Mount new strings. Set the guitar as usual, including humbucker height. A good start for the height is 2 mm from E and e strings when you maintain the strings on the last fret. Then balance it by monitoring the result on your amp.
Hello akoustixx, The colour coding of the wires is specific to each manufacturer. The process I explained to Necro was for Di Marzio pickups (example here: bcrich-amateurs.unholywar.de/img/members/2/PIckupWiringColorCodes.gif ) You should thus solder the finish of the South and the north poles to the split pot and the start of the South pole to the ground. I have not found the Suhr colour coding, you should ask their support.
Hi, you've helped a poor man buy a good guitar :) Can i ask you a question about why you don't have the Bridge pickup cover on the 311, is there any difference either way?
@akoustixx if I might chime in having done the homework hard yards only recently. Seymour Duncan website lists the pros and cons of naked bobbins vs covered. Pay it a visit. There is a technical aural difference with uncovered sounding brighter, although debate rages on whether it's sufficiently discernible aurally to influence choice. The two main attributes of having the cover are physical protection and aesthetic. It A. stops ingress of FOB and B. eliminates risk of accidental breakage. According to a venerable luthier of many decades experience I respect with whom I had a conversation on the topic, "the biggest single 'threat' to an uncovered pickup (whether humbucker or single-coil), is the possibility of catching the high E string under the top plate of the bobbin, of one of the two coils - this is likely to break the coil-wire, which kills the pickup. Sweat-induced corrosion, and abrasive wear from strumming with a plectrum, are the number-2 and -3". The cover eliminates these. Ultimately a case of weighing up reliability vs the cost of and risk of incidental damage or more frequent grime or wear replacement. In the SD Humbuckers, with cover are priced at a 20% premium over naked bobbins and that's at best sourced available pricing. I paid it, but my reasons were 1. to achieve minimal differentiation from 611 tones as achievable with the *necessary* bridge PUP mod, and 2. aesthetic rather than the advantageous service life or negated risk of incidental damage.
For those wondering what are the differences and common points between the 611 and the 311, here is a summary:
- they are made in the same factory
- with the same type and the same quality of wood
- they share the same tuners and the same pots
- they share the same build quality
In a nutshell, there is a common base for both instruments, but:
- the 611 has a glossy finish where the 311 has a satin finish (question of taste, no quality impact, but satin finish is cheaper to produce).
- the 611 has graphtech string savers saddles (yes, it is better).
- the 611 has a flame mapple veneer on its top (no impact on the sound or on the quality, but is better looking and costs a bit more).
- the 611 has a translucent finish (no impact on the sound or on the quality, but is better looking and costs a bit more. The wood is also selected based for its visual aspect).
- the 611 has Seymour Duncan pickups (yes, it is better)
- the stock bridge pickup of the 311 is "bad", or at least not balanced with the P90.
ATTENTION: the 311 often comes with a worse factory setting than the 611. This review is based on both guitars set the same way by myself, what decreases a lot the feeling of difference in playability between both models
So is the 611 "better" than the "311"? YES, the 611 is better than the stock 311.
Does the 611 worth twice the price of the 311? NO, so the 311 is the best quality/price ratio, or the best value for money, especially if you replace the stock bridge pickup.
So, I hope this will stop the "haters" writing non sense comments, anyway I will not publish them.
Thanks for the break down mate, getting a 311 - the 611 is out of my price range
Very cool report.Greetings from Germany
Hi Sven, any splittable humbucker with a resistance between 12k ohms ans 16k ohms. The brand and the model is a question of taste.
Guitar Center has a 311 with similar finish now. Very tempting. Probably put my own pickups in there eventually.
So basically if you put graphtec saddles on the 311 and a pickup change you end up with the same guitar more or less. No way i’d pay double for the 611 imho.
I bought the 311h natural satin finish based on this video. I played a 611 and honestly I prefer the 311, I prefer an unfinished neck and the 611 has a lacquered neck. I also love natural guitars and as nice as the root beer flame looks it's a little on the flashy side for my taste. I know the stock humbucker is weak but it doesn't sound bad and when it's full humbucker it's a nice vintage voiced PAF style humbucker.
Never the less I wanted my new good guitar to be a great guitar so I upgraded the bridge to a Seymour Duncan JB SH4. The thing is insane now, while the split coil sounds great and just as good as any single coil, as a humbucker it's a very noticeable difference in volume and overall growl. It's to the point that I consider it like an overdrive pedal. I play split for clean crisp tones and instead of hitting the tube screamer I just push down the pot and I get crunch and volume. I'm sure if I lowered the bridge pickup I can get it to be more balanced but for right now I think it's pretty cool as it is. I think with my new pickup it sounds like an SG at the bridge, split coil more like a Tele, middle split it sounds like a strat and neck is almost like a Jazzmaster. It has a longer scale so the strings are tight and percussive like a Jazzmaster and the P90 tone is similar to JM pickup sound.
I also swapped out the saddles for brass. I really love this guitar!
Love the way you give information directly, without a lot of jibber jabber.
This was probably the best review on the topic out there on UA-cam. Merci beaucoup!
Thanks a lot :-)
@@xophedebx actually, I have a question: have you ever tried the 120h to see how it compares to the 311h?
Hello @AdrianMutu87 , I tried the 120H in a shop a couple of years ago, but I could not tell you how it compares with the 311H. At that time I compared it to the Ibanez RG321MH, and I decided to buy the Ibanez. So unfortunately It would be difficult for me to help you on that point.
i just got the 311 red metallic, looks and plays fabulous. Lowered the p90 and raised the humbucker to even things out. Amazing guitar.
Great video and comparison. Purchased a Pacifica 611 and try amazed by the guitar. It feels like much more expensive instrument and amazing sound.
great review- I ended up buying both .... I'm keeping the 311 stock because low output pickups work great with pedals- for me - but your upgrade makes sense for the in between sound -thanks for a great video..
Thanks a lot! I still have got them both, they just sound great and have a so nice playability.
I had the 311H VW. Upgraded it with the Seymour TB-14 bridge. Since bought a 612VII FM. Still own & play both. Both are great. I wanted the satin neck and opaque white in the 311H. I like the steel saddles too, although could swap them for Wilkinson alloy or brass if preferred inexpensively enough, GraphTech too, but they're silly money, and fortunately, I don't want. I do my own setups so both actions feel the same, satin vs gloss neck finishes notwithstanding. Love 'em both.
Man theres a simple but complete review/comparison. I'll subscribe.
General comment on guitar tops:
- a veneer ( a thin slice of wood, circa 0.3~0.4 mm thickness) does not influence the sound.
- a real guitar top made of plain wood (for example 3/4" of maple on top of a 1.5" mahogany body) will influence the acoustic response of a solid body guitar (so it will not sound the same than a model made of plain mahogany only).
- whether the pickups will transmit this acoustic difference or not may depend on the model of pickups. In general I would say that it will, at least partially, whatever the type of pickup (piezo, ceramic, …). Anyone who already built a guitar can tell you that. Sometimes it can mostly affect harmonics and be difficult to be heard at first glance.
I'm getting this guitar in a few, I cannot wait!
I have the 311 and couldn't agree more with your verdict. Great advice on the bridge pickup. It's a terrible match. The Yamaha (actually G&B) alnico V P90 is beautiful, however - as good as the SD of the 611? Probably, I'd say.
Hello, the G&B P90 is almost equal to the SD. I would say that it has a little bit less trebble (high E string beyond the 12th fret), but it's hardly noticeable.
I tested a 611 at the store today and it was amazing.
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I am currently looking at which Pacifica to buy and your review has been very helpful. Much appreciated.
You are welcome. Thank you for your comment.
stim resp Buy the 510V..
I have the 611vhm and played the 311 and the differences are like night and day.The 611 is a class A guitar with so great sounding pickups ,harmonics the feel,everything it's the flagship mod l f the Pacifica range.Love it.311h is not bad at all,played one and really like it,but after owning the 611 I can the differences.But yeah the 311 is a great guitar.
I've got a 612VII and 311H. Both are first class guitars. Primary difference between 611H & 311H are just the pickups. Both necks are superb, just different preference feel finishes. Same with the saddles. Steel or graphite, both good. Agree on the pickups. Seymours are a cut above. I put a TB-14 in my 311H. Pretty close to a 611H performance now, identical effectively on the bridge only saddle impact on tonal differences excepted. Happy with the G&B P90. If they'd made a 611H in opaque white with a satin neck I'd probably have bought it, and may have swapped the saddles out.
Great review, I'm getting the 311 based on your info. You play very well I might add for me just getting started and wanted the right guitar to serve me well as I advance.
Thank you very much for your feedback! I'm sure your Pacifica 311 will be with you for many years to come.
If you're familiar with the dry switch on the Revstar guitars you could change the split to a filtered "dry" switch to make the humbucker sound like a single or p90 without a volume drop when you use the push pull. I like the G&B P90 pickups. Had them on an old prs se they sounded great. PRO touring guys use them with major acts and really like them. I'd probably put the screemin demon in the bridge. It splits well but still retains that classic paf type tone just a little hotter.
thx man, cheers from Spain
I have this guitar and it's great. I am also planning on replacing the bridge humbucker. I just wanted to ask the sizing of the replacement? Did you get a fender or Gibson sized replacement pickup to match the routing?
Hello, I took an F spaced bridge pickup if I remember well, so slightly larger than the Fender. Gibson spacing is not compatible.
Very interesting and informative. I want a P90 strat like guitar and am considering the Pacifica.
Very fair comparison. Thanks for the review. Which one is nicer to be played? Is it the one with satin finish or with glossy finish?
Cheers from Indonesia.
Hello. It's a question of personal taste. I prefer the satin finish.
@@xophedebxI like satin finish fornthe neck too. And most people that I ask answere the same. It is more smooth and easy to move around the neck. Thanks for the quick reaponse. I am still thinking to buy relecaster classic vibe (now it is more eliminated), yamaha pac 611 or yamaha 311 (unfortunately no tremolo).
Thank you xophedebx! I've been very interested in the 611, your video may save me some money - THANK YOU!
You are welcome Robin!
Thanks a lot for the great review ... gonna change the stock humbucker on 311H soon, just wonder if it is a good idea to use DiMarzio DP 155FBC with the nickel cover from the stock one or how it might affect the DiMarzio's response ... as far I know there is no variant of DiMarzio DP 155FBC with the Nickel cover available and I like the stock look of 311H black. Thanks.
Hello, I do not think that the spacing of the holes of the stock G&B cover will be compatible with the Tone Zone F spacing. You might end with a small misalignment.
Helpful and interesting ! Thanks.
I bought the Vintage White 311h - it is Awesome!
For everyone's information the P90 route isn't deep enough for a Seymour Duncan P90.
The stock P90 is fairly decent though, and you could rewind it or change magnets.
The stock humbucker is insanely poor though as described It measured about 4.7 or 9.7kohm depending on which of the combination of 3 wires (Red, White, Bare)
The Tone pot is only a 250k, swapping out for a 500k might help.
The 0.022uf cap seems ok and the volume pot is a small 500k alpha which is ok.
Now I've had mine a little while. Love the slinky satin neck. The stock G&B humbucker tone isn't too bad IMO. It's just that "where did all that the volume go?" underwhelming moment when you flip to humbucker only that accenuates it to seem so. Agree that it's definitely a mismatch vs the 611H pairing. Do you know if a Seymour Duncan TB-14 Custom 5 Trembucker is a plug 'n play fit? It's easier to source from here than a cream or nickel DiMarzio DP155F, and about the same price. Copy the routing comment re mod fit of a SD P90. It's weird that Yamaha would actually route the 311H body front PUP slot differently from the 611H!
Hello, the SD Custom 5 is plug and play (I would say solder and play) fit. You would have the same pairing than on the 611 in this case.
+xophedebx Thank you. That's great news. It was the routed space and mounting points which were of concern. I suppose I shouldn't have blurred the question with the plug 'n play phrase. Simple electronics soldering like this isn't any problem at all. Seymour Duncan it is then.
Honestly the pickup isn't bad. It's vintage voiced and low output but its ok just not great. I have a custom 5 in the bridge of a Les Paul and it sounds really bright, I'm a little concerned how bright it would sound in the 311. I don't need to coil split the humbucker but would like a little more volume and character. I'm not a fan of ceramic or overly bright pickups, I like a thicker balanced tone with a little sparkle in the bridge, any suggestions?
Hello,
What is the distance between the pickup and the e and E strings? I often set the bridge pickup height (string pushed on the last fret) with a difference of 1mm (ex 2.4 mm of spacing with the low E string and 3.5 mm of spacing with the high e string). This makes the pickup sound less bright and more fat.
Nice review, great job!
Hello. Would you recommend a guitar Gretsch G2655-P90 JR DC instead of this Yamaha. I cannot decide. Kind regards
Hello, I do not know the Gretsch G2655-P90 JR DC. It looks like a Gibson ES, so there is no comparison possible with the Yamaha Pacifica, these models are too different IMO.
@@xophedebx Thank you. I appreciate your help
Excellent tip!
Would you recommend the 311H if i'm planning to change the pickups anyway ? It sounds like you pay mostly for the seymour duncan pickups.I googled the 501V and missed out on it, so i want to build it myself with the same single puckup etc, but hardtail.
If you plan to change the PU's, buy the 311H indeed ;-)
great video man!! thanks for the info!!
Thanks!
Yamaha should probably pay you commission. 👍 Pretty sure your review has closed the sale on one or the other of these guitars for them many times.... It certainly helped me decide between 611 and 311 to push the buy button. A well done helpful review. So thanks. P.S. Love your guitar strap colour and pattern. Which brand/pattern is it, ...if you wouldn't mind sharing?
Hello, thanks for your comment :-) Most of my guitar straps are Ibanez models, with mediator slot (very convenient), bought on Amazon. This one is a Ibanez GST512ML-BG (10€ ~ 12$).
+xophedebx Thanks again. I hadn't realised that its pattern was actually a monogram "Ibanez" script until your response. It looked like a repeated geo pattern theme to these old eyes viewed on my 9.7" tablet screen. Regardless, it certainly looks appealing on both of those guitars' colour schemes with the off white/creme and brown contrast just the right understated colour tones. I like it very much.
What a great video, exactly what I needed to help me decide between the 2. Would you say the build quality or rather quality control is the same for both guitars or does the 611 have an edge there?
Thank you. Based on my experience with these guitars, I would say that the quality control was, at that time, slightly better on the 611, or better said, the out of factory set up was better on the 611. Anyway, quality control may vary from one guitar to another. Once the 311 set up properly to my own taste, the difference in playability between both guitars was gone.
Do not forget that this video is already 6 years old now, so I could not swear that the situation is the same today.
Great review, thank you.
Chuck one of the Iron Gear "Dirty Torque" Humbuckers in the 311 bridge and good to go!
Nice review, good tips too.
The Tone Zone that you installed on the 311H was the F spaced?
Hello, yes, it was the F spaced version
Thank you for the tip with the Tonezone in the bridge!
Hello,
Thank you for this review.
I will probably buy a 311 (because of the satin finish neck) but I have 2 questions :
- about the electronics : did yamaha use exactly the same quality/brand for the other components (potentiometers, capacitor, selector) for these 2 models... or the 311 has cheaper ones too ?
- the finish of the 611 is more "advanced" (flame top, painted headstock, translucent lacquer) and it has 3 better hardware parts (2 "better"/expensive microphones, graphite saddles) but, otherwise, is the 311 on par with the 611 ? Same quality craftsmanship (how the frets are ajusted, ...) and same quality for the woods... or the 311 feel cheaper ? Does it really feel like they come from the same factory with the same quality standards or not really ?
Hello,
The pots, switch and wires are identical. All the electronic components are identical (except the pickups).
Wood quality on par and craftsmanship looks equal. Factory is the same I suppose.
Then, as you said in your conclusion, this guitar is the best value for money.... Clearly ! (For my part, I will certainly buy a second-hand humbucker to upgrade it. It will be cheaper)
Thank you, xophedebx. Now, I'm sure it's the 311 that I want.
Hi! First of all , great video. I wanted to ask about your opinion on something.I'm about to buy a new guitar and i'm looking into the yamaha pacifica 611 and fender standard strat MN.The reason i would go for the yamaha is because this model doesnt have tremolo and i think it would stay better in tune because of this..What's your opinion about this matter and what would you recommand ?
Hello,
In my opinion, the biggest difference between the 611 and the sdt strat is the radius of the fingerboard. Most std strat have a radius of about 9,5", where the 611 has a radius of circa 13". So the fingerboard of the 611 is much more flat than the one of the strat and you can set a lower action without compromising bends on the e string.
Regarding your question about the tremolo, if your tremolo is set properly and if your strings are mounted the right way, a std strat will remain in tune without any problem, so this would not be a reason not to go for the strat IMO.
Thanks a lot!:)
Hey. I am going to buy the Yamaha Pacifica 311H but I know nothing about electric guitar amplifiers. I want one in a reasonable prise (100-150 €). Can you please give me some advice?
Hello,
As for everything, it will dépend on what your are looking for: are you looking for a small amp to play at home, or a first amp to play with friends in a band, etc.
For a first amp to play at home: get a low power solid state amp with some built in effects, headphone jack, audio input for backing tracks, 2 channels. There are plenty out of there, so choose a 15~25 watt amp within the range of your preferred brand.
Here are 2 examples: Fender Combo Mustang I V2, Marshall MG15 CFR/CFX
If you do not need to play through a loudspeaker (in other terms if you plan to play only with headphones), a good alternative could be a pedal board multieffect for guitar, as a Zoom G3 or G3n (or equivalent like Boss GT1). This would give you a lot of sounds, a drum machine, a looper, etc. But it could also be too complex for a first approach of the sound chain.
Regards
mr xo, thanks for the info, 8 is a bit low, and the desigen SD P90 ...., whilst having time of my life, i strongly recommend regular HEartbeets
Nice review. Thanks. Question: Currently, Revstar RS420 and Pacifica 311H are both selling for around $300. What do you think is a better value and which one offers more versatility? Thanks again for your honest review.
Hello Raman. I'm afraid I don't know the Revstar, so I could not tell you which one is the best value, sorry.
i lucked out and got a used 2020 612VIIFM for $399. didn't have a scratch or ding on them.
Where'd you find that gem? I want the the 611 but I don't feel like breaking the bank.
Great review! Do you know how much it weights the 311? Thank you!
Thank you! I could not tell you the weight as I sold both 311 and 611 some time ago.
Thank you for the vid! Right on the spot! I assume that the 311 doesn't suffer with neck dive?
Hello, both my 311 & 611 have no weight balance problem
@@xophedebx Thank you for your answer! Reviewers most of the time don't comment on neck dive. I'm looking for my 1st guitar and this is a big deal in my opinion for a beginner. Gonna go with 311H. Seems a really good buy choice. Wish you all the best with your channel!
very informative thanks
Hey! i bought the 311h a couple weeks ago, i love that guitar, but it has a small problem, it has a small hum, but when i touch any metal that is connected somehow to the electronics, it stops, except the pickup selector, if i touch that it gets louder. I was wondering if maybe you know what could cause this problem.
Hello,
This is a "ground" connection issue. In a regular circuitry, all metal parts not soldered to the "+" or the "-" are connected to the ground. So a little hum is something normal, and as soon as you touch the strings, the bridge, or any metal piece connected to the ground, the hum is canceled by your body, this is a regular behaviour. What is abnormal in your case is the noise when touching the pickup selector. This means that you have a problem with the circuitry. Let it review by your local shop if you do not feel confident with electronics.
Well i took it to my local shop, it turned out it has a twisted neck (which i also suspected). Im sendenig it back.
Nice you found the cause, even if a twisted neck generates "fret buzz" and not "hum when touching the selector" ;-)
xophedebx Don't get me wrong, it still has the elctronic problem, but is also has a twisted neck, so it has buzz and hum :( guess im unlucky with guitars :D
Hello Richard, it seems you came accross a bad exemplar (this can happen with any brand / model). I hope you'll get it replaced quickly :-)
Can you advise what humbucker should i buy? Im looking for versatile one. I think dimarzio pfa pro will fit. What do you think?
Hello,
The PAF PRO (www.dimarzio.com/node/2137) has a resistance of 8.4k ohm. So the output will not be high enough in the bridge position, especially when splitted (4.2 Kohm). IMO you should not go under a DC resistance of 12 or 14 k ohm if you want a good balance between the P90 and the humbucker. I think a good old DP100 Super Distortion would be great www.dimarzio.com/node/2114
Tonezone doesn't sound very good when split. It's really more of a shredder pickup. Very good on certain guitars but for this I would probably go with a DiMarzio Airzone or get the Seymour Duncan SH14 that is fitted in the 611 HFM. Also resistance is only an indication of the output power, to compare properly you need to look at the mV output.
Hello, I agree with you. Regarding the Tone Zone, it's a way for me not to have the same type of sound than on my 611, otherwise it would not be interesting to get both models.
+ Xaver von Treyer Thanks for the recommendation. A comment of the 611's bridge PUP guys. Said with intent of being a helpful pedant rather than a 'know it all'. Yamaha's websites internationally specify the stock bridge PUP fitted to the entire 61x series including the 611H as the *TB-14* Trembucker, Seymour Duncan's equivalent to DiMarzio's F spaced. The *SH-14* is the Seymour Duncan's *Standard spaced* Humbucker. I measured my 311H's string width 6th to 1st at the saddle which is > 2" confirming the Trembucker is the *Seymour Duncan recommended fit* for the 311H reaffirming Yamaha's spec for the 61x series. I only know this because I'm a "measure twice, cut once" type of guy who's about to press buy and perform the upgrade myself on my 311H. I'm going with the TB-14 as I don't have a 611H and want to try and replicate as close to the same tones as achievable with the G&B P90/SD TB-14 combo that I can achieve.
@Xaver von Treyer Could you elaborate upon *why* you say "Tonezone doesn't sound very good when split. It's really more of a shredder pickup." please? Not looking to criticise you/your comment, but to understand.
Reason for my question. it contradicts what DiMarzio claim in their website spiel about the DP155, specifically that; "It makes a great match with an Air Norton™, PAF Joe™, or PAF Pro®, and *split-coil mode produces an excellent single-coil sound as well* ". Yes I appreciate every manufacturer has a vested self interest in marketing self promotion spin, but at the same time, it also behoves keeping it factual if wanting to maintain a dependable & quality reputation.
I'm about to buy and trying to choose between fitting the DiMarzio DP155F or the Seymour Duncan TB-14 in my 311H which will be paired with the OEM fitted neck G&B 117 IV P90. Both DM & SD PUPs are about the same price to my location. Either are available. I note xophedebx's "I agree with you" remark in reply to your post I am enquiring about. Clearly both of you are far more erudite on this issue than I, so any & all guiding input from either or both of you would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hello, I said "I agree with you" about the fact that the resistance is only an indication about the output power. Regarding the Tone Zone, it's a question of taste and a question of settings. I got great results even when splitted, but it's a personal opinion.
Thanks. If I only brought away one thing from my research into 'which to install?' evident from researching manufacturer websites and forum opinion, it would be how individually subjective aural perception of tonality is.
Thank you for the comparaison ! And G&L Fallout Legacy VS Pacifica 311H ... ? same pickups config ! What do you think about that ? ^^
Hello, I could not tell you, as I do not own any G&L
@@xophedebx Ok, no problem. Thank you very much for your answer ;)
Hi!
Which pickup is better for the 311h in your oppinion? Dimarzio Tone zone or Super Distortion?
Hello, this is a question of taste :-) I prefer the Tone Zone, but it's just my own opinion.
xophedebx Thank you for your answer! :)
Wanted to ask a related question... would a SUHR ALDRICH 53MM BRIDGE ZEBRA be a Good choice, saying that it's used in 2k priced Suhr guitars? BTW i just bought my 311 Thanks to you! now in the process of picking a Bridge pickup :)
Hello, I never tried a Suhr, so I got no idea of what it would sound like on a 311. Sorry, I cannot help you.
hi are the necks the same on both models in feel apart from the different finishes?
Hello Billy, the finish does impact the feel (the satin finish feels more "thin" than the glossy finish). Otherwise, when the guitars are set the same way, the playability is the same.
@@xophedebx thankyou !
Thanks for the great review. Can you write which model DiMarzio Tone Zone pickup you put in the 311 please?
Hello, it's the Tone Zone F spaced in cream finish (DP 155 F CR)
+xophedebx Can you confirm if the DiMarzio F spacing DP 155 humbucker's magnet spacing is identical to that of the OEM G&B G113-1's?
Presumably F spacing is correct, as you used it ✔ ....and it's what DiMarzio recommend for bridge in most instances according to the FAQ on their website. I haven't a 611 or 311 bridge here yet to measure empirically per the spec recommendations in their FAQ.
I ask because you mentioned elsewhere in response to another enquiry that you didn't re-use the original's chrome cover because of "different spacing". I surmised you were probably referring to the parameters of the spacing of the mount holes in each brand's respective mounting bracket?
Apppreciate your attention to detail that counts, and the first hand user account balance in your review.
Hello, the F spacing is the version you should use in the bridge position. The original G&B spacing is somewhere in between the regular spacing and the F spacing.I would call it a "bridge-neck" spacing, what enables cheap pick-ups to be mounted in both positions. So the cover cannot be re-used indeed.
Again my humble thanks for the courtesy of such a prompt reply, and your explanation in it which solves that mystery for me. Very much appreciated.
You are welcome 😊
i just make love with my three Yamaha Pacifica 112Vs, having owned the 611HFM...: them Graphtech nuts wear off ( Guthrie Govan ), sooner than one thinks!... Graphtech HAS white ones, I tried one once on one of me Pacs and it was trying to turn Yamaha Pacifica 112V into somthin tele..., If and when I get money, Ill be buying the Yamaha Pacifica 112V ( that would be my fourth one, hopefully the United Blue specimen!), yesterdaynight I was considering the Yamaha pacifica hh version, butt because of the hard tail! ( the life of a Millioinar must be tempting), itll remain aye mystery for me,one cool factor thou with the HH is that both humbucks are splittable, this been written id buy a hard tail in one nano second, the coilsplit function with both pickups is a killer spec..., breathing air, Kimmo...
What about the 120h? It's the only one with h-h config
Hello, I am certain you can get a very nice 120H with the right setting and a couple of branded pickups. The original PU were quite noisy when splitted , as far as I remember. I compared it to the Ibanez RG321MH at that time, and I went for the Ibanez.
can you help me, i cant decide wich one to buy.. the 611 or 612v ii. Some people say the 612 is not worth the money and the single pickups sound like a cheap squier strat pickups. I play 80s metal, hard rock, jazz fusion and some modern metal shredding and sweep picking.
Well, I would say none of them will 100% fit for metal, shredding, trash metal purposes. 611 would be better for blues rock, 612 for blues funk, both for jazz fusion. Both could fit for metal with other pickups.
I would advize to have a look at other models or brands (Yamaha RGX 420, Ibanez RG, ... there are plenty of possibilities).
This is of course just my own opinion.
To answer you next comment " Well
Iment classicmetal from the 80s like iron maiden, judas priest and not black
metal, death metal etc... I dont know is the neck on the yamaha good enough for
fast playing and shreddung? I fckn love the look of that guitar it looks too
amazing"
I would say yes, taking note that : the radius is about 14" (so it's quite a flat neck, what means that the strings Can be set close to the fretboard), the neck shape is quite equal to a Highway Strat 2007 (C shape), the frets are thin (not jumbo) and the SD Custom 5 is a nice humbucker for distortion.
Luda glista the 612v ii has SD ssl1 pickups, so if people are saying they sound like a cheap squier, they're just not single coil fans!
My thoughts exactly given that the PAC612Vs have SD PUPs in all positions including the same TB-14 at the bridge as the rest of the range. Even as a relative re-n00b, even I can see no one guitar is going to meet some people's irrational criteria. Expecting any instrument to excel in all genres is an unrealistic expectation, or to perform all genres is a compromise accepting mediocrity in some if not a majority of them.
Personally I prefer a the correct fit ring or open spanner to a shifting spanner if I have a bolt to undo. Doesn't matter whether it's a bicycle, motorcycle, guitar or aircraft, the right tool for the right job. I wouldn't expect an Airbus A320 to glide like an 18metre Schemp-Hirth Discus 2c or either to roll, turn and cope with 'g' like a Su-31M2!
I tried in the shop 611 and the lacquered neck is such a drawback. Hand is sticking to it, can't play fast. Although sounds nice I find it hard to play.
Hello, this can happen with most guitars in a shop, as anybody can try them and the neck is often "sticky" due to dirt. I clean my guitars everytime I use them, using a soft polish and afterwhile GHS Fast Fret on both strings and bottom of the neck.
How replace humbucker in 311?
You have to unsolder the current wires of the pickup and solder the wires of the new one based on the diagram provided by the manufacturer. If you do not feel confident, it's better to require some help from a friend.
I want test this Dimarzio Tone Zone in my Pac 311h.
You changed this pickup yourself? If you did it yourself give me some tips please. Any problems with push pull coil split?
Yes I did it myself, but I'm used to do that (I already built guitars, basses and electric violins from A to Z).
Here are the steps in a nutshell: remove the strings (unbend the trussrod if you leave the guitar quite a long time without strings. It's OK to leave the trussrod like that for a couple of hours, not more).
Unscrew the back plate. Remove the knobs, unscrew the 3 way switch and the pots. Protect the lacquer and unsolder the wires from the current humbucker ( take note of the pins where they are soldered): ground, positive on the 3 way switch and split on the pot. Unscrew the mounting plate and unscrew the humbucker. Screw the Tone Zone on the plate. Screw the humbucker plate. Solder the black+white on the split pot. Solder the red on the 3 way switch. Solder the green + bare to ground (volume pot ground is OK). Check signal is OK. Screw the back plate. Mount new strings. Set the guitar as usual, including humbucker height. A good start for the height is 2 mm from E and e strings when you maintain the strings on the last fret. Then balance it by monitoring the result on your amp.
Thanks for help. :-)
Hello akoustixx,
The colour coding of the wires is specific to each manufacturer. The process I explained to Necro was for Di Marzio pickups (example here: bcrich-amateurs.unholywar.de/img/members/2/PIckupWiringColorCodes.gif ) You should thus solder the finish of the South and the north poles to the split pot and the start of the South pole to the ground. I have not found the Suhr colour coding, you should ask their support.
What string gauge is on 311h guitar?
It comes with standard 009 - 042. I play with balanced 010 - 46
Hi, you've helped a poor man buy a good guitar :) Can i ask you a question about why you don't have the Bridge pickup cover on the 311, is there any difference either way?
Hello, I replaced the bridge pickup of the 311 by a Di Marzio Tone Zone, as the stock pickup had a weak output.
Ah sorry, i thought the Stock pickup had a cover that could be reused on the replacement ;) again, thanks for doing this Vid
Hello, you are welcome. The spacing of the stock pickup is different than the one of the F Spaced Tone Zone. So the cover coul not be reused.
@akoustixx if I might chime in having done the homework hard yards only recently. Seymour Duncan website lists the pros and cons of naked bobbins vs covered. Pay it a visit. There is a technical aural difference with uncovered sounding brighter, although debate rages on whether it's sufficiently discernible aurally to influence choice. The two main attributes of having the cover are physical protection and aesthetic. It A. stops ingress of FOB and B. eliminates risk of accidental breakage.
According to a venerable luthier of many decades experience I respect with whom I had a conversation on the topic, "the biggest single 'threat' to an uncovered pickup (whether humbucker or single-coil), is the possibility of catching the high E string under the top plate of the bobbin, of one of the two coils - this is likely to break the coil-wire, which kills the pickup. Sweat-induced corrosion, and abrasive wear from strumming with a plectrum, are the number-2 and -3". The cover eliminates these.
Ultimately a case of weighing up reliability vs the cost of and risk of incidental damage or more frequent grime or wear replacement. In the SD Humbuckers, with cover are priced at a 20% premium over naked bobbins and that's at best sourced available pricing. I paid it, but my reasons were 1. to achieve minimal differentiation from 611 tones as achievable with the *necessary* bridge PUP mod, and 2. aesthetic rather than the advantageous service life or negated risk of incidental damage.
Does the 311h have the graphtech nut as the 611h or is it plastic?
Hello,
Yes , the 311H has the graphite nut and string guides, but it has not the string saver saddles on the bridge.
Sound the same to me.
UA-cam and sound compression is not the best way to hear the differences, but indeed, both guitars sound almost the same.
Five pieces body for 311 and 3 for 611...
Hello, dépends from one body to another, it does not seem to be a rule linked to the model