Thank you. I did this last night on a previous yardwork customer who placed an advertisement in FB marketplace for a freezer not freezing repair. Watched your vid. Removed the service panel, did the steps after viewing 6 blinks of a red LED blinking. I watched for the test step indicator on the fridge's temp display. Fourth push went to "normal operation". I called her the next morning. I was told her fresh food compartment and the freezer section are working as they should be.
As a HVACR tech with little experience with appliances your videos are very helpful in allowing me to learn the correct way to trouble shoot these LG Frigs and not just assume like most techs I work with that it's a bad compressor every single time.
My LLFX28968 stopped cooling after our home AC quit working over 100 degree weekend in Texas. Watched your video, found a code 6: Current Overload flashing after I removed back panel. Ran the self test, everything appeared to be working so I waited thirty minutes then closed it back up. I guess it went overcurrent due to 90 degrees in the house but seems like it's working fine again. Thank you.
Thank you very much. The water line for the ice maker sprung a leak and the PCB got wet. The fridge stopped. You showed me that there was a reset button and where it was. After things were dry I tried it (using a popsicle stick just in case!) and everything works again fine. Thanks for saving us thousands in fridge and food at the hottest time of the year.
Thanks for the video… My freezer had gradually quit cooling and things were thawing. Lost a lot of frozen food as we were gone. LG has been very difficult to deal with even though it is under warranty. After viewing your video I found the test button and things checked normal. No LED codes. Compressor and fan function normal. Upon emptying freezer and dissembling partially the interior, frozen coil. I suspect the defrost system is malfunctioning. Took a while to find the test button, but my mother board is different (located on top of unit). Still your video was quite helpful. Confirmed fan operating as well as compressor. On a side note if this happens make sure you have plenty of towels for the thawing ice buildup. I don’t recommend trying to remove it manually as there are electrical wires and water lines in the area. I managed to do it but I have 40 years as an aircraft/avionics repair person. Waiting on LG warranty people now…🙄. Thanks again!
@@elliottsmith2179 - You'll be waiting a long time. LG is a crappy company. Basically consider it Eastern China. They just had a class action against them for their defective refrigerators, but my model was not included - even though I am sure they know they used the same defective engineering and parts in other models, they will not do the right thing without a lawsuit.
I am in Hot California, have been helped to solve air conditioning issues and , I felt that I should Express my positive message to those persons that HELP UNKnown people through the invaluable service of the internet . Those topics that gives assistance on soloving high temperature or issues on air conditioning etc, I should be really thankful with those great humans that give clear, counsels or solutions . THANKS GREAT HUMANS WE NEED MORE PROCTIVE HUMANS LIKE YOU THANKS!
It is a shame, because if the LG Refrigerators would work correctly, they are durable, nice looking and well laid out. There is currently a class action suit for LG compressors. If you go to the LG website and read the comments many people have had problems with the compressors. They need to pull the bad product from the marketplace and fix the compressors. If they need to charge more money to bring quality/reliability then they should do so, instead of disappointing their customer base and inconveniencing customers when they are left stranded with a non-operational refrigerator and their food gets spoiled. I have had issues with the in door ice maker & water dispenser. Most people expect a refrigerator that costs $2K to last for QX years.
what model of lg please? mine was good similar to model on video for more than 15-years in large family, until last week when i notice that my lights do not turn off when the doors are closed . i believe it should be some of upper lights /temp control board as the door switch still works upon check .I just did cleaning and vacuuming for the maintenance.
@@Javas_Dream we got 8 solid years out of our LG , and compressor is bad because the customer service guy had me hold the (ice plus and freezer button for 5 seconds) to do a check...but the said my compressor is warranted for 10 years, but not the service labor..which they quoted me $458 including tax,, Its a rip off, , I mean $1700 for 8 years , and I said I will never buy a Frigidaire appliance and we went with LG, no I can add LG to the never buy this appliance again. We have their TVs with the WEBOS which are holding up so far, but as far as Kitchen stuff appliances..I will pass on it. Yesterday I was searching for best refrigerators on the planet, and the Brands like SUB ZERO, WOLF, VIKING, etc popped up, but these appliances cost from $5k to $20k . a few folks were making comments about how long they had their old back in the day refrigerators that they bought close to 50 years ago, and I forget the names (brain fog) but you know, things were built 10x better back in the day. We don't want to lose all our food now, and Thank God its winter now, so I will be storing some food outside in my shed in a giant container ..because its been averaging around 28 degrees Fahrenheit where were at, and I will do this until we get another refrigerator box.
Im currently having the same issue. Did you fix the problem? Edit: Fridge stopped working the next day. Ended up paying someone to diagnose the problem and change the compressor. Fridge and freezer have worked perfectly ever since.
I did the first test then the inside blower ran again. thank you for this video, save ourselves $250 just for a technician to visit or $650 for labor to change the compressor.
May 18, 2024 - I have a different and newer model LG fridge/freezer, but it is possible that some of what the host shows in this video may be of some help to me now and in the future. Thanks YourSelf for a very good video. "Live long and prosper!🖖🏻"😊
Do-it-yourselfer's, no disrespect to the uploader as he didn't create LG's fault codes, but you can ignore this one folks. Of LG's 8 codes, 6 of them list the PCB as a likely problem. Friends, if you took the 20 main problems we experience with refrigerators, odds are huge it's one of the first 19 and #20 is the PCB. As someone who has repaired everything with a PCB short of the space shuttle for decades, 95% of the time it's not the PCB . I had an LG tech out here who told me I needed a new PCB ($500 +) to repair my ice crush function, the part was $9, labor 15 min and I've had 2 other repairs the techs said "replace the panel" and the fix was never $20.
Can you offer any advice? The evaporator fan works when I conduct the first test. But after completing all three tests, the compressor and compressor fan come on but the evaporator fan does not. what' s up?
Very nice video. Troubleshooting my LG now. Upon first panel opening, the led was blinking but no longer after a power off / on cycle. Will open the bottom half panel to inspect the compressor and related fan work. Fridge and freezer almost at room temp. If compressor with '10 year warranty' then game over as LG was sued for this fault. They charge hundreds of dollars for the labour to install the compressor...if even available with a short lead time. Thanks again for your video!!
Thanks for your video I have a 36" LG and the display would flash a error message after appearing normal after just plugging it in. This for 6 years, then the other day it completely stopped cooling. After watching your video I found the fan wire had fell off. A easy fix. Also the display seems to be working now!
Little late but my |LG fridge stoped last night I am doing the procedure to see how lucky I am.pray for me not go down 2K minimum Thanks for the attempt to help
Our fridge was so loud and the tech said he could not find anything wrong with it! We could tell that a fan was rubbing on something and if you would open the freezer you could see the fan stop and so would the noise. I tried this and a lot of water went into the drip pan in the back. For now it seems quiet so we will see what happens throughout the day. Thanks for the info!
It seems like you have an excessive ice accumulation by the evaporator fan. This could be a one-time deal (if the door wasn't closed tightly, you put hot soup in the fridge, etc...), or become a reoccurring problem (if the defrost sensor has gone bad, broken air-seal, etc..). I'd run another defrost cycle (Test #3), to make sure all extra ice has been melted. And if the problem comes back in 2-4 weeks, call a technician, but not the same one.
I found this video extremely helpful. Super simple and effective. It did not solve my problem though. Light M201 in the Inverter section is flashing red 3 times and my fridge is not cooling which leads me to believe that the inverter is busted.
If you have a multimeter, check the compressor as in this video ua-cam.com/video/zYIC7LMkKak/v-deo.html Lg says it's the most common issue with 3 blinks. Also, make sure all wires are sitting well. Unplug and plug them back in.
Your video has been a BIG joy in helping me to troubleshoot the problems with my Kenmore/LG refrigerator. I went through the test modes (everything checked out ok) but the error light on my PCB is not blinking any error codes at all. Will this light activate when I push the reset button, or should it already be blinking if there's an error? My refrigeration is not cooling but everything seems to be working ok.
Your situation sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem - running but not cooling. If you can feel the air movement inside the freezer and the fridge, but it's not cold, the compressor is probably bad. And unfortunately, there is no error code for this particular (most common) issue.
Yeah I got stuck with one too. I got it at a restore for 500 bucks. Hopefully its not anything major but having it 2 1/2 weeks lets e know to steer clear of this brand
They can fool me once....never again. Never going to consider any LG product. This brand will not last the test of time. People will eventually get wise to the garbage they try to pass off on the consumer.
@David Pumpkini our compressor died a few months back and im not made of money so we haven't replaced it yet so I can't offer you any advice other than to stay away from LG. Fridge is only 3 years old
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I bought an LG 3 years ago and it stopped cooling. We cleaned vent and did a reset but it still does not cool. Was told to hold freezer temp and ice button for 3 sec and got a code 88 88
For the 3-year-old refrigerator, it's worth calling LG directly so they can check the compressor. It's very common for LG linear compressor to fail early. If it is in fact the problem, they may replace the compressor for free.
I would like to thank you very much for this video. We have kenmore elite french door model 74043 , built in 2016. It has all LG stuff in it. We ran the diagnostic test and everything was working fine, even the air was cold and yet refrigerator is not going lower than 50 degrees. freezer is working fine. We opened up every part of the refrigerator and freezer to make sure there was no ice buildup but everything is squeaky clean from inside out. going nuts here. Please help us.
When you say the freezer temperature is "fine," can you verify that it's around 0°F with a separate thermometer? When the fresh-food compartment is not going lower than 50°F, does the compressor continue to run (trying to cool lower), or it's resting? What is the complete model number?
Hey really informative video, i did the diagnostic test and i did feel the airflow, so if the test mode works but airflow doesn't come on in regular mode, does it mean compressor is ok but something else in sealed system isn't ?
In some refrigerator models when you open the door the fan automatically stops blowing air. You'll have to activate the door switch and hold it for about a minute, and the fan should start blowing air again. If the air is warm, it's probably because of a bad (inefficient) compressor. Very common for LG Linear compressors. LG replaces those compressors for free for the first 5 years.
@@Your-Self hey thanks, in the test mode i opened the door yet could feel airflow in both fridge and freezer, in regular mode i dont feel it, i dont have door switch i have door in door so i can technically still open and should feel air but i dont, what should i check next?
Every refrigerator has a door switch to turn lights out when you close it. Yours is probably the invisible Reed Switch activated by a magnet as on this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipwOerjFITg/v-deo.html If the blowing air is warm, it's probably the Sealed System issue (compressor most likely). If the air is slightly cold, hopefully, a Defrost Problem, but could also be the beginning of the Sealed System problem. To verify it, you'll need to remove everything from the freezer and look at the Evaporator Coil frost pattern. Thick layers of frost and ice, means Defrost problem. No frost at all, or very little on ONE SIDE ONLY, means Sealed System problem. If you activate the door switch, but the fan is still not blowing air, that's a rare problem... possibly the main PCB.
@@Your-Self I’ve run through the tests - thank you for this tutorial! - and the Error Code light isn’t lighting. The refrigerator is lukewarm but the freezer works fine. I’ve cleaned the disgusting fluid that had pooled in the evaporator tray (on the bottom right, beneath the fridge’s rear bottom panel), but I’m not sure if that might have been related. I also haven’t figured out how to clean the drainage tray that’s visible through the plastic vents at the back interior bottom of the refrigerator section.
Thanks for all the helpful videos. One question... after doing tests and resets, the compressor and fan operate fine, but no cooling. No LED indicator. Lights still on inside fridge also.
If the compressor and all fans are running, and you can feel the air movement inside the refrigerator but it's not cold, that's a pretty bad sign of a major Sealed System problem. If your LG refrigerator is under 5 years old and you have the purchasing receipt, LG may fix it for free.
I have a LG LMXS27626D /01 French door refrigerator that stopped cooling. It’s about 3.5 years old. I’ve run through some troubleshooting based on your videos. Thanks, they are helpful! My compressor seems to be running, it’s warm and it hums/vibrates. I used my multimeter to check the windings, and all seem to have checked out. I get about 8ohms across 2 pins and 0 across the other 2 paths. The compressor fan operates fine. There is no LED that I can see on the PCB when I do the test/reset operation or indications of error codes... The evaporator fan seems to be working since I can run the reset test and there is air movement from inside the fridge, just not cold air. The other test I did was with an infrared thermometer to check heat output on the various components. I’m not seeing an increase in temperature across the condenser coils. So what does all this mean? I’m guessing low refrigerant?? Or is this still a bad compressor? Or, something else... I contacted LG and they’re sending out a tech in like 3 weeks… That’s too long. What do I do?
It sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem... running but not cooling. They should replace the compressor absolutely free (parts & labor) for the first 5 years, but you may have to "fight" for it. Meanwhile, if you don't have a spare fridge, maybe get a small one until they fix yours.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the speedy reply! So are they going to come out and replace the compressor with another unit with the exact same problem and in about 3 years I'll be faced with the same problem? Or, did LG do something to actually fix the problem with their linear compressors?
According to LG, they have improved the Linear compressor about a year ago, and it's called a "Universal compressor" that fits most models. But there is no track record to prove that it's any better than the old one, so only time will tell.
My LFX28978ST from 2011 have linear compressor replaced in 2015 and its bad again not even 7 years full (why I am here). First time they charge me for labor which came out $200-something and this time since no warranty, I am just gonna go with local repair shop. Cannot believe how bad those compressors are as old cheap fridge can go 20 years
Thank you for uploading such informative video. I did the test and according to the error code chart you showed at the end of your video, my error code light was flashing 5 times and the chart says,”lack of oil inside compressor, or physical restriction by foreign material”. Please let me know how do I fix this problem. I didn’t find any oil leak behind the fridge. Thank you
Thank you for the helpful video. I tried the test on my LG fridge (my PCB is mounted on top) but didn't seem to produce any errors. After a power outage the freezer is blowing air that is about 55 degrees F. Won't get colder even though compressor stays on. Any ideas what might cause that? Oh I can also hear a slight buzzing coming from the PCB, not sure if that is normal.
A power outage may corrupt the PCB, so it's best to plug the fridge and all your electronics into the surge protectors. After running this test, the PCB may get reset and come back to full life within 24 hours, or may not. Make sure the condenser coils, next to the compressor, is not full of dust and hair... clean with a brush and vacuum if needed. Next, I'd check the evaporator coils behind the back wall inside the freezer. If it's covered in a thick layer of ice and frost, you may have a Defrost Problem.
@@Your-Self I have the same fridge with PCB board top and has the same issue with power outage. Ran the reset test and clean the condenser coils, no luck. Should I turn off the refrigerator for 24hr or leave it on?
@@namlam9956 why isn't @yourSelf replying? I have the same issue too, after power outage my fridge/freezer was not cooling, tried reset got no errors and no cold. the freezer and fridge ran for a bit then stops.
Having same issue as others. Works perfect in test mode 1. When in regular operation with magnet trick, the fan behind the air filter is spinning but no air is blowing out of the vent that lead to the door ice maker. I'm not sure where the freezer door sensor is though.
Most of the time, the 6 blinks indicate an expensive "sealed system" problem. To find out exactly what the problem is, a technician needs to install gauges and check the pressure.
I did the test, it looks like everything was working the fans inside the freezer and fridge were working fine for around 5 minutes but then they stopped.. so what could it be...
Same for me. Did the tests and everything worked - fans blew, compressor working and I actually felt cold air. Finish test and fans / compressor stop working.
Good morning hi evaporator fan is running in test mode but I just plugged it back in after testing and the fan is not running. Do you have a video that shows me the next steps to take ? Thank you so much for your help great video
@Manuel Jaramillo what coils are you referring to, the freezer, fridge, or condenser next to the compressor? Please start a new thread with your model number. (I don't always get replies on old messages)
@Manuel Jaramillo try to turn OFF and defrost your refrigerator for about 24 hours with open doors. If the ice comes back, you'll need to call a tech to look for a Defrost, or a Drain problem.
Thank you very much. Few UA-camrs are so thorough in spelling out the steps. I'm still left with a mystery though: I pressed the button one time (never any LED flashes), and my refrigerator started blowing again. I may never know why it was tripped. Any ideas? (I won't know for some hours whether it cools, but the compressor and all fans are blowing).
LG linear compressors cool very slowly. So give it a whole day to work its magic. And if it's still warm, there could be a Sealed System (expensive) issue. If your refrigerator is under 5 years old, LG may replace the compressor for free.
Hi there. Amazing video. I tried this however during the test I can feel the cool air coming through the vents but it doesn’t blow any air during normal operation. Fridge randomly started to not cool. Both the freezer and the upper compartment isn’t cooling. During the test there is cold air blowing in the compartments but once test is done there is no airflow. Any fix ?
Try to narrow down the problem. 1. Does the compressor regularly turn itself ON and run, but you don't feel any air inside the refrigerator? 2. Or the compressor never runs during normal operation, but works during the test mode? Keep in mind that in some models when you open the door, the fan will automatically stop blowing air, so you need to activate the door switch and hold it for a minute for a fan start again.
YourSelf thank you for your reply. Compressor is on full time but the cooling is very low. It’s still cooling but no where near the normal cooling temperature. I don’t feel any air blowing into the compartments at all
You didn't mention if you activated the door switch for about a minute while checking the airflow... that's important. What is your refrigerator model number?
Having the exact same problem, my model is lmxs30776s. Test mode fan blow cool air, when test mode is done the compressor runs for about 3 or so minutes then stop then run again and repeat that... freezer someone cool fresh food compartment is hot. The fan next to the compressor continue to run. The compressor was replaced by a certified technician and that’s when the 6 flashes started. Replaced the PCB board which I don’t think was the problem now. Still no good. Refrigerator $3000 plus, compressor $500 plus labor, PCB board $230. I have a very expensive hot box taking up space in my kitchen
@Michael Maxwell nice and complicated model with a dual evaporator. Maybe the certified tech didn't know how to work on this model. Probably need to reinstall the compressor and refill the sealed system properly. If it was replaced by a new "Universal" compressor, the main PCB needs to be reprogrammed with a special LG software jig to run properly.
Hi, Thanks for a very useful and nice video. I have a lg gr-f802hlhu model refrigerator. I just have an annoying buzzing sound from the compressor. Services in Turkey do not know even one of the things you are talking about. Therefore, unfortunately, there is no professional service provider to tell my problem.
You can try placing your hand on the compressor and some copper pipes around (wear a rubber glove for safety). If the sound stops, that's a vibration you may be able to fix. If not, the sound may be coming from the inside of the compressor, and there is nothing that can be done. If there is a fan next to the compressor, maybe the sound is coming from there?
Thank you so much - I went through this sequence yesterday and today the fridge is working fine and I am so grateful to you. My question is, this having happened, what could cause it to STOP working and does this mean that the compressor is on its way out? When I did the part of the test where the LED light would indicate problems, there was no blinking. But I'm worried about putting a bunch of food in there again if it is likely to happen again soon.....
Nowadays refrigerators are run by electronics and the software. Just like a typical computer or your phone, sometimes it locks up and needs resetting. This can happen for no reason at all, the power outage, or an electrostatic shock if you finally decided to remove that protective plastic cover from the door ;) So nobody knows if it happens again, but I'm glad your fridge works now!
Thank you this is very informative. does the main pcb board control the ice maker cycles or just supply power to the ice maker. thank you (my fridge is a few yrs old and the ice maker will not cycle, i have tried turning power off/on but i only see the green led on the ice maker...no movement. i have water to the ice maker and the temp is cold enough)
Every model is different, but the PCB probably checks for the right temperature around the ice maker and then sends the power to it. Look for a test button below the ice maker or a pinhole on the side. Slide a paper clip into the hole, and hold it for 3 seconds for a cycle to begin. Or hold the test button for the same 3 seconds. If the ice maker is not rotating, it's probably bad.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the quick reply. I turned the ice maker on/off several times waiting 10 minutes. And also pulled the 120v pwer from the fridge. And Praise the Lord after a couple of hours it started working.
Thanks for this tips. But what does it mean exactly if I have 3 red flashing? Do i need to change the all pcb has you said earlier or is it an "easyer" fix? Thanks again
Thanks for that vid. Well explained. I have a deep fridge from haier company. There is a connection from the controller named by PMW with two cables. Wich is connected to the inverter board. I think it gives the command. I have the problem that the compressor not runs by every command. Do you have experiance with controllers and pulse width modulation commands?
The controller sends a small DC voltage (PWM) of around 2-3 volts to the inverter to run the compressor. But most of the time the inverter burns out so the compressor can't run. Inspect the inverter board for burnt marks or inflated capacitors.
Hi, thank you for the video it really helped. Question, My LG stopped producing ice in the bottom freezer. I did the diagnostic test like you demonstrated in the video. I don't have the LED light, however on the front panel it was showing me a 33 33 code. I looked it up and it said it was the freezer door switch. I replaced it, redid the test and it still shows that same code. Any ideas what it could be?
LG fridge $1495 bought feb 2018, quit working I unplugged and cleaned compressor and fan area. Plugged back in and still no heat. LG was great at giving me a phone number for a service center which I will have to pay parts and labour. Thanks to LG we are now using a 25 yo Frigidaire we were given for free. Our next fridge will not be LG
We contacted LG and they sent out competent tech to replace compressor for free. We did have to buy a mini fridge since it was a week before he would show up.
4 роки тому
Thanks for this! Your video helped me figure out that the fans aren't blowing apparently. So the main board might be a goner. LG has been notified (fussed out) and they have a R.O started now.
During the Test Mode, all fans should blow air... but in some refrigerator models, you also need to activate the door switch for the fan to run after opening the door. Hope your model doesn't require it.
4 роки тому+1
@@Your-Self it's likely the main board that's gone wrong. When I hit the reset button once, the front panel lights up entirely and the freezer starts making cold air (non for the refrigerator) it runs for about 5min then stops and exits that mode. I'm not sure what's going on here but it's weird that the fan won't power on until the reset procedure is activated.
They are nice and roomy, have good features but there is something wrong with them just like the washers. I think our last one was damaged or something during manufacturing so after 5 repairs we got a new one and it got loud after a year and the tech that came out under warranty said he could not find anything wrong. We even did a video for him with the sound and it went away when you opened the door, you can tell a fan is rubbing on something maybe ice build up in the freezer. I hope this fixes ours as I am about to open the freezer up to see if there is ice rubbing on the fan blade.
Hi, I have a Kenmore Elite and my fridge and freezer fans stopped working causing them temps to raise to room temp. I took off the lower panel on the back of the refrigerator and observed the condenser had a light hum to it and the fan next to the condenser was on. I then UA-cam some videos and came across yours. I followed your directions and removed the motherboard panel and pushed the test button. The internal fans began to work in test mode, however once the system went back into normal mode the internal fans stopped. As you had recommended to others, I held the door button to trick the system into thinking the doors were shut but the fans were still not on. From the comment I see on here, it seems to be a common issue. I contacted Sears and they said since it was purchased in Sept 2018 that the warranty expired except for the condenser, which is a 10 yr warranty so if it’s the condenser then at least it’s covered. I am scheduled out with Sears a couple of weeks and hoping that I am able to fix it sooner than that. Hoping folks that have had the same issue chime in to what the fix was for them. Thanks for any and all input for this problem!
During the Test Mode - if the fans are blowing warm air, the compressor is probably bad. If the air is cold, the problem could be with a temperature sensor, door switch, motherboard... to figure that out, requires a lot of testing.
Thank you for the video. I followed all steps and everything worked in test mode but after the 4th press, the fridge and freezer still do not cool. Both stay at about 60 degrees.
Hello - thank you for this heads up. I was 'this' close to going out and getting an LG side by side with the linear compressor (even though it says 10 year warranty on compressor). What exactly is the issue with it though and purported failure mode? Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. I have an LG LRBC20512SW that came with our house we bought last July that stopped cooling. I can't find a test button on the motherboard. The compressor sounds fine. It's fan works. The interior air flow fan works. But there's no cold air. What can be the issue? I also have a large Frigidaire freezer model LFFH20F3QWC that stopped working. Nothing happens when I plug in. I don't hear any sound at all from compressor or fans. Only the light turns on. I ordered a relay & capacitor with the hope that can fix it. I also noticed in the past that the coils froze up. What can be causing that? Any help on either of these would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
That model LG looks like doesn't have a test button. The compressor is "old skool" basic, which is more reliable than LG Linear. So if it runs together with fans, most likely the refrigerant gas has leaked out... an expensive fix (assuming frozen coils were on Frigidaire). Maybe somebody could "gas it up" for you, and see if it holds the charge. The Frigidaire may have a stuck Timer (located near the compressor). I think the knob on that timer could be turned by hand clockwise. Try turning it until the compressor and the fan kick in.
@@Your-Self Thank you for taking the time to reply!!! For the LG LRBC20512SW Fridge if it's indeed an expensive fix it wouldn't be worth doing Is there any way to tell if the refrigerant leaked? Is it possible that it's another issue like a faulty motherboard perhaps? Regarding the Frigidaire LFFH20F3QWC freeze I turned the defroster timer knob a few times but still nothing works. I'm waiting for the capacitor to arrive to see if that will fix anything but I really have no idea what the issue is.
If the compressor and fans on LG are running, the motherboard is doing its job. The only way to verify the refrigerant leak is to pierce the copper tube and check the pressure inside. If there is no pressure (while the fridge is unplugged), the gas is gone. On Frigidaire, the compressor and the fan are on a parallel circuit. That means one can work without the other. If they both don't work, something they have in common is the problem... unless the fan died earlier. That's where you need a multimeter to check each component and trace where you lose the voltage. The voltage is supplied to both of them through the Thermostat (Cold Control) and the Timer. So if you get about 120VAC at the Timer (between pins 1 and 3), the Timer is probably burnt inside. If there is no voltage, the Thermostat is bad. Try replacing it. It's a live electric test and can be dangerous.
Love you vids. They just replaced my LG compressor and it's now cooling, but the temp is fluctuating. It's still empty because we're not sure if we trust it yet. I just started keeping a log of the temp variations. The freezer seems to doing fine. The temp is set for 38, in a 24 hour period the fridge temp goes up and down between 38 and 48. Is this okay, and if not, is there an easy solution? Thanks.
When a refrigerator is empty, the temperature may have wide fluctuations. Put a few gallons of water bottles inside to stabilize the temp. What is the freezer temperature range? And does your model have a single or dual evaporator?
@@Your-Self That makes sense, let me try that. I haven't been monitoring the freezer as much, the temp seems to be 0 degrees. I'm not sure the number of evaporators, I've done some research and haven't found a way to find out.
Thank you for the video. My freezer begins working properly, but randomly doesn’t get cold enough to freeze for about 2 days, then freezes again. This process has happened about 4 times in a month. What do you think it could be?
Intermittent issues like this are difficult to diagnose, especially over messaging. It could be the fan occasionally not working, sticking relay on the PCB, partial/moving restriction inside the sealed system... etc, so it's probably best to call a tech to look at it. Sorry that I can't be more helpful. PS when it's freezing well, measure the temperature inside the freezer for the technician to know, and if it's warmer than 5°F, it's not good freezing.
Thanks for the video. We have a LG LMXS30776S/04 and it’s 3 yr and 1 month old now. Ran the smart diagnostic and no errors were found. Performed the test modes per your video and for test 1 the condenser fan turns on and the compressor is also slightly vibrating. The fridge and freezer fans are on and the air is blowing cold. On the second stage of the testing mode the condenser fan and compressor is still on however only the freezer fan is on. There is also no light flashing on the pcb board during the tests but the lights on the front panel does show “22” - “22”. I also tested the relay and compressor prongs and got around 8.5-9 ohms on one prong set and 0 for the other 2 prong set. Based on your comments it seems like I have a compressor issue but not entirely sure. Thanks again.
Based on your description, everything works as it is supposed to. Check if the fan inside the fridge blows cold air during "normal mode" while the compressor is running (you'll need to activate a door-switch with a magnet, so the light turns off). If the fan works, maybe the air is not cold enough. This could be due to a defrost problem, or most likely, the compressor going bad. Call LG directly if you have the receipt, and they should replace the compressor absolutely free.
I’m having th e exact same issue, same results with the 22 on display. I see this happened to you 2 yrs ago, I’m curious how you made out? Did LG replace your compressor?
Thank you for this video I have a Frigidaire FG4H2272UF but I can't find the test button. Would you by any chance know where it is? It is not on the main board. My problem is no cooling at all. I change the inverter and same result. I tested the electric part of the compressor and I get 20.3 on each pin. It make a nice noise. So I am hoping its not the compressor. I also checked the power to the inverter and I get 110V and 6v.
This video is for an LG refrigerator. Your Frigidaire doesn't have a test button. If you can feel that the compressor is running and slightly vibrating, it's probably good. If fans are running as well, the problem could be with the refrigerant (Freon) leak. Does the display work on the door and the middle pull-out section? Are there any error codes?
@@Your-Self Thank you for your reply - They are no error code on the door and the display seams to work properly. The compressor is running and has a slight vibration. Fan is running. The condenser stays room temperature. So I am going to refill the refrigerant.
Off topic question: I am about to refill it with refrigerant. The data sticker calls for 200g / r123a. How do I determine what's in the system before refilling? I suspect nothing is left and I do intend to vacuum it.
Are you sure it's an r123a and not the r134a? The only way to measure how much refrigerant is left inside is to recover it in a bag and weigh it. Newer refrigerators are very finicky about having the right amount of refrigerant filled. I believe this is a 2-evaporator system with a distribution (stepper) valve. This makes it even more complicated with the vacuuming and refilling. It's best to find the leak and repair it first. You can try adding a little refrigerant at a time. If it starts to cool, you have a leak. If it's still not cooling, the problem could be something else.
Question about sealed system issue. Did all tests in the video and all my fans are working, compressor seems to run just fine, air blowing into both the fridge and freezer, however it will just not get cold enough. I found some information online, not sure how accurate it is, that states if you take a temperature gun to the "coils" (sorry, not sure if that is the correct term) or where the coolant would be running through, that it should be 30 degrees or so above ambient temperature to know that it is working, and when I do that I am getting temps barely above the ambient room temp. Would this lead one to believe it is a sealed system issue? I am out of warranty and if so, more than likely going to just get a new fridge. Thank you ahead of time for your awesome video and assistance to everyone who asks! Take care.
Your presumption is correct. Most likely the problem is with a weak compressor or a refrigerant leak. But I'd check the freezer evaporator coils first. If the coils are covered in a thick layer of ice and frost, it's a Defrost Problem. If no ice, it's a Sealed System Problem.
@@Your-Self Thank you for the fast reply! So I actually do not use the ice maker portion, just because I do not like the water here and hardly ever use ice. Anyway, on an LG LFX25978ST I need to take the panel off in the freezer portion to check the freezer evaporator coils, correct? Quick further back story. The vents on the bottom back portion and the whole area behind the fridge was embarrassingly dirty, so I popped the lower panel off and cleaned all that up including the area around the compressor and fan and everything. How long in your opinion should it take the unit to get back to normal cooling and freezing temps if working correctly after that? I just went and checked the freezer pack that I have sitting in the freezer and it is actually starting to harden now slowly. Should I let it sit longer before further diagnosing? I am now wondering if being extremely dirty caused it not to cycle properly for a long time and now just needs to catch up? Is that possible? Again you are awesome and thank you for the help!
Yes, the extra dusty condenser coils will impair the system heat transfer. Hopefully, after cleaning them, the full cooling will come back within a day. If not, the dusty coils could've overheated and permanently damage the compressor.
Very informative video. Followed this procedure and everything worked and follows the sequence for the fans, compressor, and defrost. I was hoping the "reset" you mention would clear an eR15 I'm getting on the front LCD display. But it didn't. BTW my board does not have any LED light it just beeps. I replaced the icemaker hoping it would solve the problem, since this code is icemaker related but it still eventually goes back to eR15 error code. Refrig and freezer both work fine, but once it throws the eR15 code water will not dispense. Ice maker will go through producing one cycle of ice, but after code nothing. Unplugging refrig clears code, but it then goes back to eR15. Sometimes the refrig will go back to normal (clear code) on its own. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
That's an unusual error code. Typically it's all letters, no numbers. So probably - ER IS. What's the model number of your fridge? I may be able to dig up some info on it.
@@Your-Self Thanks for your reply. Yes, I've seen it shown both as "I5" and "IS" on my web searches and the code is shown to be "a problem with the icemaker fan motor" or a "disconnection with the icemaker sensor". The fan motor is operating and blowing cold air, As I stated since the control board is part of the icemaker and cannot be easily repaired, I replaced the entire icemaker with a new one. So I'm at a loss here, I sure hope you can help because this is driving me crazy. As I stated the refrig and freezer are operating and cooling fine. Once the code is showing the refrig will not dispense any water. I have gotten the icemaker to complete and make one ice cube cycle before the code is thrown. This is baffling to me …. I thought and was hoping that the new icemaker would clear the code. When I unplug the refrig and then plug it in the front display will display a normal good display and then cycle back and forth between a good display and the "eRIS" code until it finally settles and stays on the error code.
This code is for a "problem with ice-room sensor" that is located slightly above the ice-maker. The sensor (thermistor) could be bad, or a connection could be loose/corroded. Sensor part number 6500JB1008A
@@Your-Self Wow ... thank you so much for that part number and solution! Is that directly above the icemaker on the back wall where I see three square holes in the panel? Is that easy to get to or do I have to pull the entire inside panel off? If I could I'd like to provide you with a recent troubleshooting observation I just made while waiting on your reply. I noticed that when I cycle the power on the icemaker switch from on to off and then keep the icemaker off it clears the eRIS error code with the new icemaker. Once I try to turn on the new icemaker again the error code comes back. With the old icemaker installed that error code existed with it on or off and also once I removed the old icemaker from the refrig/circuit it also tripped that error code. Does that behavior still jive with your proposed solution? Thanks again for all your help!
So run through the tests and no codes show. When in normal operation I get water puddle that freezes inside the floor of the freezer compartment. Heater element ohms test shows 32.1 and defrost control sensor tests good. There is no obstruction from sheet metal defrost catch tray inside freezer compartment to and thru the tube to the evaporation tray by the compressor. Is it possible the heater can pass the test but be getting old and not providing enough heat to do a complete defrost? Thanks much for the vid very helpful
The heater either works or doesn't. Most incomplete defrost cycles are due to the defrost control sensor (thermistor or thermostat, depending on your model) going bad, or attached in the wrong location. And can you visually confirm that the ice/frost not defrosting completely? What is an actual problem with your refrigerator... not cooling or a puddle of water on the freezer floor? If you are absolutely sure that the defrost water drains-out well, the icemaker or the water dispenser could cause a water-puddle on the floor.
During a normal mode, when you open a door, the fan may stop automatically. So you need to trick the system as if the door is closed by activating the door switch. The fan should start blowing within a minute. However, if during the Test compartment fans were blowing warm (room temp) air, the compressor could be bad, or the refrigerant could be leaking out.
When you run Test #1, do you feel warm/cold air blowing into the upper section? Depending on your model number (single or double Evaporator) the problems could differ. For example; defrost problem, drain problem, damper door, fan, or compressor problem. Your freezer temperature is probably set at 0°F, but what is the actual temperature?
HI,I have a cuestión,do you recommend buy a LG refrigerator with inverter linear compressor? It's true the compresor It's not good,and what brand of refrigerator you recommend, thank you for you help.
The defrost cycle will timeout on its own. I just don't remember how long the cycle is... maybe 10-20 min. But if it's already warm in the compartment, test 3 may not even start. Or it will finish early if the temperature gets too high.
Thank you very much for the video I did the first step and I heard the bips after when I did the second step I didn’t heard nothing and there is no cold air could you please answer me
Hello thank you for the informative post. My problem is that the refrigerator stays at around 66° no matter what I set the temperature for. The freezer works fine and keeps the food Frozen as it should. You indicated that a circulation fan might not be turning on. I wonder if that is a motherboard problem? Are there two separate fans, one that is internal between the freezer in the refrigerator? Do you have a schematic diagram of those refrigerator? I will run through your Diagnostics tomorrow but I'm not sure if it will accurately determine my problem. Thanks in advance, Paul
What is your refrigerator model number? I may have the schematic for it. You could have multiple fans and multiple cooling Evaporators... or just one. That may play a role in why one section is cold, but the other is not. Also, what is the actual temperature inside your freezer? It may seem freezing cold at 25°F, but it really should be at around 0°F. Make sure the Condenser Coil next to the compressor is clean to provide a good heat-transfer.
@@Your-Self Thank you for your quick response. As you can imagine it's always exciting when your refrigerator full of food is not cooling properly. I was too busy vacuuming out the coils and wiping the greasy crud off the fan blades to notice that there was a schematic on the top of the refrigerator back. I purchased a 4 probe smoker thermometer so that I could measure both the freezer and the refrigerator at the same time. After preforming the four test sequences I determined that the circulation fan was now indeed working, (with the help of a magnetic so that I could feel the cool air beginning to come into the refrigerator). Yeah! My food is saved! But I may still have the beginning of a problem. Setting the temperature to the lowest setting the freezer measured -8 but the refrigerator only got down to 45 degrees. That's enough to stop any more milk from going bad but I am wondering if my linear compressor is starting to fail? I think the model number is an M6#1JCV075320 or an MS#1JCV075320 or an LMXS27626SAS. The invoice was smudged. It is an LG Linear Compressor Side by Side with a an icemaker. Thank you soooo much for your step by step video. Very informative! What are your thoughts on my temperature variables?
By the way I did not have a blinking LED on the motherboard. But I did have indications of what mode I was in on the front panel display. The purchase date for this unit was August 23rd 2015. Do you think I could get a freebie replacement for the compressor?
The model number on the invoice seems to be for a French-Door fridge, so I'm still not sure if you have a dual or a single Evaporator. The model number should be on a sticker, probably inside the refrigerator section. If your freezer got down to -8°F, that probably means the compressor is good. And if it's a single evaporator unit, the problem could be with the air transfer from the freezer to the fridge compartment.
@@Your-Self Yes it is a French Door Refrigerator with two drawers below and both of the drawers are freezers. The refrigerator is set for 34° and it has improved and stabilized at 40°. Big improvement but still not what it is set for. There is only one fan at the coils. Is there an internal fan for the refrigerator or some sort of damper door to regulate the cold air coming from the very cold freezer?
What refrigerator model number are you talking about? Because they all have different wiring setups. But the most common problem is with the freezer LED going bad. And that module brings down the whole circuit.
Thank you for the video. I have the same model, not working now. Does the big capacitor at bottom of board need to be checked or replaced? Could it be the cause ?
You can check the capacitor below the board, but it's almost never a problem. When you say "not working now", what exactly is not working? Do fans and the compressor run during the Test, but don't cool? Or nothing runs at all, and no lights inside?
@@Your-Self i did test the capacitor. it is working. The unit is not cooling at all. both fridge and freezer. The fans are working. The Compressor is linear and seems making some noise, assumed it was working. I did test it with Ohm meter. It read 9. so i assumed it is also working. I ended up calling a tech, he said the compressor, though it is reading good but is not compressing!
Most refrigerators have only settings for the temperature, not the actual temps. But some models have both, and you should be able to find it in your Owner's Manual. Thanks for watching!
@@Your-Self mine is pretty much exactly like yours, except the condenser is on the other side away from the compressor and the temps are displayed on the outside of the door. Mines not cooling and seems like everything is working fine. Oh well
Sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem, running but not cooling. If your fridge is under 5 years old, the compressor should be covered under the Free replacement warranty.
@@Your-Self I bought it in April 2016 so we'll see what they tell me, tried to call but they moved their hours because of covid-19. Thanks for all the help!
I have model lfxs30726s /02. The refrigerator stopped cooling, freezing. I did the reset test and both sections were blowing air from the vents. After the test, it is not blowing any air. Also, I didn't see any lights blinking to give any idea of what might be the problem. What do you suggest to do next? Thanks for your help and great video!
During the Test, was the air blowing cold or warm? If it was warm, the most likely problem is with the Sealed System... expensive to fix without warranty.
@@Your-Self it wasn't hot/warm but it wasnt cold either, lol. Thought maybe it would get colder but then there is no air blowing when its not doing the test. I'll try it again to see if it is on the cold side. Can you leave it on Test 2 (or 22) for an extended period of time to see if it gets cooler?
You can leave the Test-1 (all compartments) or Test-2 (single compartment) running for a few minutes to see if it gets colder. Eventually, the Test will time-out in 10-30 minutes. If the blowing air stays around room temperature, it's a bad Sealed System. PS. The air may seem not to blow during regular operation is because when you open the door, the fan will stop automatically. But if you activate the door-switch, the fan should start blowing again within a minute.
@@Your-Self unfortunately it did not solve my issue, still good knowledge still had a technician come out under warranty replace the compressor and dryer LG having a problem with these specific things
I saw some great comments so I am reaching out hope you can help me. My LG refrigerator top refrigerator won’t go below 40 degrees and the freezer gets to 20-30 degrees. I have them set to 34 deg and -6 deg. I’ve up plugged 10 minutes and back in. I run test program. I’ve clean and vacuumed the coils and back of unit. I am not getting any led lights flashing. I’ve moved everything away from the vents and both are blowing cold air. Seals are good doors are level. The unit is 13 yrs old. Model LFX28977ST /01. If you have any ideas please share.
Looks like your model has a regular compressor, which is more reliable than the newer linear compressor. Did you move your refrigerator recently where it gets direct sunlight? If not, you may want to check the evaporator coil inside the freezer. If it's completely covered in a thick layer of frost, it's fixable. If there is no frost at all or there is some just on the top, that could mean the refrigerant (Freon) is leaking out. And that is a pretty expensive repair.
@@Your-Self Thanks. It not freezing it was Up to 40° when we defrosted everything and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it doesn’t get below 30 know in the freezer. That was my first guess it was a Freon 13 years old and it’s the older model do you have an idea what it would cost to have that recharged and fixed.
Refrigerators take a small amount of R134a (4-6oz), so it's cheap. But finding and fixing the leak could be difficult and cost $500-$1000. Some techs may do a "recharge only" for about $200, but that comes with no warranty and can last for a week or a year.
Thanks man... my LG shows error code ff and both freezer and fridge aren't cool properly the fridge fan is out but I'm not sure how to check the freezer fan... I think it's a magnetic switch or something... thanks again for the test button information 👀👍
FF - is the Freezer Fan error code. The fan may be damaged or stuck in ice due to insufficient defrost cycle. If you can, disassemble the freezer to verify ice buildup around the fan.
The freezer fan has probably iced up. The easiest way to fix that is remove all food from the freezer and refrigerator section, unplug the unit and let it defrost for about 24 hours. You may have to repeat this every six months. I've had this problem for close to 5 years now and LG says my refrigerator is fine.
Our refrigerator model is ...lsc24971st. The cooling is not working. Freezer was working, but the cooler was not at all cooling. Local Technician visited, cleaned pipes with vinegar, asked us to switch off refrigerator for 24 hrs and restart. After we restated, the freezer is too is not working to the optimum level and temperature doesn't go below 10 degrees. Please let me know, what might be the issues. Thank you so much.
I'm assuming that you checked and both fans are running at the same time as the compressor... right? In this case, after defrosting the refrigerator for 24 hours and it's still not cooling well, the problem most likely is with the Sealed System (a gas leak, a restriction, or the compressor is going bad) To verify the problem, the local technician needs to install gauges to check internal pressure inside the Sealed System.
maybe this will help someone but LG model LG LSXS26366S (and probably others) the control board is ON TOP of the unit, and it doesn’t have test mode 2 OR 3. It has one single test mode. a 2nd press of the test button just returns the fridge to regular operation.
Ran the test just now as my refrigerator and freezer had defrosted overnight. Test 1 and 2 had cold air blowing out of both the bottom freezer and upper area refrigerator. However when I plugged it back in, only air is coming out of the freezer and not the refrigerator. No blinking LED either. Any idea what is causing this issue?
Thanks for the great video. I have LFXS30766S. during the test （ press first 1） the blow cold air. after finished all 4 stages. I unplugged it. rest，then plugged back. it doesnot work. the top inside fan does blow any air （no air） the compressor is running all the time. do you have tech who can send me？ do you think it is the PC Broad ‘s problem？
Hi ur video been great but I still have one problem that after I finish the test the fan stops after few minutes then I redo the test same happens so can u please help me to find the problem or the solution Thanks
I have a kenmore refrigerator model 51833 which has a LG linear compressor FLB075LANA on it. The compressor is running, all fans working, air coming out but not cold, tubes coming into the compressor not hot or cold. When the door opened, evaporator fan always start running, and sometimes it stops when the door is closed. Does it mean the compressor is bad since my refrigerator is just more 4 year old?
It sounds like the gas (Freon) has leaked out, or the compressor is bad, which is a more likely scenario. LG replaces those compressors absolutely free for the first 5 years because it's a major problem. But since your model has a Kenmore label, you have to go through Sears. Call them, and hopefully, you can negotiate a free replacement or some kind of discount.
My LG LTCS24223S /01 has the EBR78764101 electronic control board. While I found the reset switch, I did not see an LED anywhere. Is there one on the board? If not, what can I use to identify any error codes? Thanks for an informative video.
I guess not all control boards have an LED indicator light. But you may see error codes in front of the fridge on the display. You may need to open the door to see the display. What exactly is the problem with your refrigerator?
I have the LG French Door model I follow all your steps and everything checks out. The evaporator fan is blowing I can feel it in the vents after a minute or two I can’t feel it thru the vents but when I check the fan it’s still blowing what could be my issue?
Thank you. I did this last night on a previous yardwork customer who placed an advertisement in FB marketplace for a freezer not freezing repair. Watched your vid. Removed the service panel, did the steps after viewing 6 blinks of a red LED blinking. I watched for the test step indicator on the fridge's temp display. Fourth push went to "normal operation".
I called her the next morning. I was told her fresh food compartment and the freezer section are working as they should be.
So what did you do to fix it? Just go into the test modes? Did you stay in test mode 3 for a few minutes to defrost the evaporators?
Oh my goodness. I was afraid I would have to buy another fridge. I love my fridge. This video helped me fix/reset my fridge! A million thank you's!!
As a HVACR tech with little experience with appliances your videos are very helpful in allowing me to learn the correct way to trouble shoot these LG Frigs and not just assume like most techs I work with that it's a bad compressor every single time.
Glad you found it helpful, and thanks for watching!
@@Your-Self ⁰
Never got any lights flashing on the board
My LLFX28968 stopped cooling after our home AC quit working over 100 degree weekend in Texas. Watched your video, found a code 6: Current Overload flashing after I removed back panel. Ran the self test, everything appeared to be working so I waited thirty minutes then closed it back up. I guess it went overcurrent due to 90 degrees in the house but seems like it's working fine again. Thank you.
Thank you very much. The water line for the ice maker sprung a leak and the PCB got wet. The fridge stopped. You showed me that there was a reset button and where it was. After things were dry I tried it (using a popsicle stick just in case!) and everything works again fine. Thanks for saving us thousands in fridge and food at the hottest time of the year.
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video…
My freezer had gradually quit cooling and things were thawing. Lost a lot of frozen food as we were gone. LG has been very difficult to deal with even though it is under warranty. After viewing your video I found the test button and things checked normal. No LED codes. Compressor and fan function normal. Upon emptying freezer and dissembling partially the interior, frozen coil. I suspect the defrost system is malfunctioning. Took a while to find the test button, but my mother board is different (located on top of unit). Still your video was quite helpful. Confirmed fan operating as well as compressor. On a side note if this happens make sure you have plenty of towels for the thawing ice buildup. I don’t recommend trying to remove it manually as there are electrical wires and water lines in the area. I managed to do it but I have 40 years as an aircraft/avionics repair person. Waiting on LG warranty people now…🙄.
Thanks again!
@@elliottsmith2179 - You'll be waiting a long time. LG is a crappy company. Basically consider it Eastern China. They just had a class action against them for their defective refrigerators, but my model was not included - even though I am sure they know they used the same defective engineering and parts in other models, they will not do the right thing without a lawsuit.
I am in Hot California, have been helped to solve air conditioning issues and , I felt that I should Express my positive message to those persons that HELP UNKnown people through the invaluable service of the internet . Those topics that gives assistance on soloving high temperature or issues on air conditioning etc, I should be really thankful with those great humans that give clear, counsels or solutions . THANKS GREAT HUMANS WE NEED MORE PROCTIVE HUMANS LIKE YOU THANKS!
what is PCB
Great video. I'm a technician and appreciate your emphasis on safety. Great information.
Much appreciated
My LG compressor broke in the 4th year. I'm so glad I still have a warranty up to the 5th year. Never again will I get an LG refrigerator.
NO Samsumg, whirpool or LG all they are TRASH, only 3 years working life
Mine stopped 5 days after 5 years warranty expired...never again will I buy lg
It is a shame, because if the LG Refrigerators would work correctly, they are durable, nice looking and well laid out. There is currently a class action suit for LG compressors. If you go to the LG website and read the comments many people have had problems with the compressors. They need to pull the bad product from the marketplace and fix the compressors. If they need to charge more money to bring quality/reliability then they should do so, instead of disappointing their customer base and inconveniencing customers when they are left stranded with a non-operational refrigerator and their food gets spoiled. I have had issues with the in door ice maker & water dispenser. Most people expect a refrigerator that costs $2K to last for QX years.
what model of lg please? mine was good similar to model on video for more than 15-years in large family, until last week when i notice that my lights do not turn off when the doors are closed . i believe it should be some of upper lights /temp control board as the door switch still works upon check .I just did cleaning and vacuuming for the maintenance.
@@Javas_Dream we got 8 solid years out of our LG , and compressor is bad because the customer service guy had me hold the (ice plus and freezer button for 5 seconds) to do a check...but the said my compressor is warranted for 10 years, but not the service labor..which they quoted me $458 including tax,,
Its a rip off, , I mean $1700 for 8 years , and I said I will never buy a Frigidaire appliance and we went with LG, no I can add LG to the never buy this appliance again. We have their TVs with the WEBOS which are holding up so far, but as far as Kitchen stuff appliances..I will pass on it.
Yesterday I was searching for best refrigerators on the planet, and the Brands like SUB ZERO, WOLF, VIKING, etc popped up, but these appliances cost from $5k to $20k . a few folks were making comments about how long they had their old back in the day refrigerators that they bought close to 50 years ago, and I forget the names (brain fog) but you know, things were built 10x better back in the day.
We don't want to lose all our food now, and Thank God its winter now, so I will be storing some food outside in my shed in a giant container ..because its been averaging around 28 degrees Fahrenheit where were at, and I will do this until we get another refrigerator box.
This evening discovered freezer not operating properly but fridge is fine. This will help immensely. Thanks
Good luck!
Im currently having the same issue. Did you fix the problem?
Edit: Fridge stopped working the next day. Ended up paying someone to diagnose the problem and change the compressor. Fridge and freezer have worked perfectly ever since.
I did the first test then the inside blower ran again. thank you for this video, save ourselves $250 just for a technician to visit or $650 for labor to change the compressor.
Thanks for watching!
May 18, 2024 - I have a different and newer model LG fridge/freezer, but it is possible that some of what the host shows in this video may be of some help to me now and in the future. Thanks YourSelf for a very good video. "Live long and prosper!🖖🏻"😊
Best refrigerator repair videos, period!
Thank you so much for the video. You saved me a huge repair bill. God bless you.
Do-it-yourselfer's, no disrespect to the uploader as he didn't create LG's fault codes, but you can ignore this one folks. Of LG's 8 codes, 6 of them list the PCB as a likely problem. Friends, if you took the 20 main problems we experience with refrigerators, odds are huge it's one of the first 19 and #20 is the PCB. As someone who has repaired everything with a PCB short of the space shuttle for decades, 95% of the time it's not the PCB . I had an LG tech out here who told me I needed a new PCB ($500 +) to repair my ice crush function, the part was $9, labor 15 min and I've had 2 other repairs the techs said "replace the panel" and the fix was never $20.
Tommy Daly so what do you suggest when the refrigerator and the freezer are not cooling but everything else seems to be working.
Can you offer any advice? The evaporator fan works when I conduct the first test. But after completing all three tests, the compressor and compressor fan come on but the evaporator fan does not. what' s up?
So just replace the board?
Thank you very match
wow what impressive resume , what part this you replace sir/madam/jews please?
Very nice video. Troubleshooting my LG now. Upon first panel opening, the led was blinking but no longer after a power off / on cycle. Will open the bottom half panel to inspect the compressor and related fan work. Fridge and freezer almost at room temp. If compressor with '10 year warranty' then game over as LG was sued for this fault. They charge hundreds of dollars for the labour to install the compressor...if even available with a short lead time. Thanks again for your video!!
Thanks for watching!
following 2nd check, 22 22 appeared on my display panel. What would this mean? thank you so much!
The 22 22 is just a notification that you are on a second Test.
The 33 33 is the third Test.
@@Your-Self after second test it just goes back to normal
@Edward Papkow some models have only 2 Tests... all fans run and then Defrost.
I thought he said error 22 means you have to order something for 20-30 bucks
Thanks for your video I have a 36" LG and the display would flash a error message after appearing normal after just plugging it in. This for 6 years, then the other day it completely stopped cooling. After watching your video I found the fan wire had fell off. A easy fix. Also the display seems to be working now!
Good to hear it!
It's posts like yours, that make y-tube invaluable. Many thanks.
Glad it helped!
@@Your-Self yes thank you! Great video
Little late but my |LG fridge stoped last night I am doing the procedure to see how lucky I am.pray for me not go down 2K minimum
Thanks for the attempt to help
Our fridge was so loud and the tech said he could not find anything wrong with it! We could tell that a fan was rubbing on something and if you would open the freezer you could see the fan stop and so would the noise. I tried this and a lot of water went into the drip pan in the back. For now it seems quiet so we will see what happens throughout the day.
Thanks for the info!
It seems like you have an excessive ice accumulation by the evaporator fan. This could be a one-time deal (if the door wasn't closed tightly, you put hot soup in the fridge, etc...), or become a reoccurring problem (if the defrost sensor has gone bad, broken air-seal, etc..). I'd run another defrost cycle (Test #3), to make sure all extra ice has been melted. And if the problem comes back in 2-4 weeks, call a technician, but not the same one.
I found this video extremely helpful. Super simple and effective. It did not solve my problem though. Light M201 in the Inverter section is flashing red 3 times and my fridge is not cooling which leads me to believe that the inverter is busted.
If you have a multimeter, check the compressor as in this video ua-cam.com/video/zYIC7LMkKak/v-deo.html
Lg says it's the most common issue with 3 blinks. Also, make sure all wires are sitting well. Unplug and plug them back in.
Very informative and straight to the point. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Will be subbing
My LG the model number is LMX25964 ST will not cool what is the problem
On the control board is it EBR 673480 could it possibly be the main control panel
Your video has been a BIG joy in helping me to troubleshoot the problems with my Kenmore/LG refrigerator. I went through the test modes (everything checked out ok) but the error light on my PCB is not blinking any error codes at all. Will this light activate when I push the reset button, or should it already be blinking if there's an error? My refrigeration is not cooling but everything seems to be working ok.
Your situation sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem - running but not cooling.
If you can feel the air movement inside the freezer and the fridge, but it's not cold, the compressor is probably bad. And unfortunately, there is no error code for this particular (most common) issue.
My fridge just died yesterday and thanks for the info so that we know not to buy LG crap next time.
Yeah I got stuck with one too. I got it at a restore for 500 bucks. Hopefully its not anything major but having it 2 1/2 weeks lets e know to steer clear of this brand
They can fool me once....never again. Never going to consider any LG product. This brand will not last the test of time. People will eventually get wise to the garbage they try to pass off on the consumer.
@David Pumpkini Samsung is just as bad. They had a similar class action lawsuit
@David Pumpkini our compressor died a few months back and im not made of money so we haven't replaced it yet so I can't offer you any advice other than to stay away from LG. Fridge is only 3 years old
@David Pumpkini You may want to read your warranty packet more closely there mr pumpkini. Everyone else....dont get your advice from a pumpkin
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I bought an LG 3 years ago and it stopped cooling. We cleaned vent and did a reset but it still does not cool. Was told to hold freezer temp and ice button for 3 sec and got a code 88 88
For the 3-year-old refrigerator, it's worth calling LG directly so they can check the compressor. It's very common for LG linear compressor to fail early. If it is in fact the problem, they may replace the compressor for free.
I would like to thank you very much for this video. We have kenmore elite french door model 74043 , built in 2016. It has all LG stuff in it. We ran the diagnostic test and everything was working fine, even the air was cold and yet refrigerator is not going lower than 50 degrees. freezer is working fine. We opened up every part of the refrigerator and freezer to make sure there was no ice buildup but everything is squeaky clean from inside out. going nuts here. Please help us.
When you say the freezer temperature is "fine," can you verify that it's around 0°F with a separate thermometer?
When the fresh-food compartment is not going lower than 50°F, does the compressor continue to run (trying to cool lower), or it's resting?
What is the complete model number?
Defrost may not be working or the drain is plugged allowing ice to build up.
Ever get a fix, having a similar issue.
@@claimed4alldid you fix it?
Hey really informative video, i did the diagnostic test and i did feel the airflow, so if the test mode works but airflow doesn't come on in regular mode, does it mean compressor is ok but something else in sealed system isn't ?
In some refrigerator models when you open the door the fan automatically stops blowing air. You'll have to activate the door switch and hold it for about a minute, and the fan should start blowing air again. If the air is warm, it's probably because of a bad (inefficient) compressor. Very common for LG Linear compressors. LG replaces those compressors for free for the first 5 years.
@@Your-Self hey thanks, in the test mode i opened the door yet could feel airflow in both fridge and freezer, in regular mode i dont feel it, i dont have door switch i have door in door so i can technically still open and should feel air but i dont, what should i check next?
Every refrigerator has a door switch to turn lights out when you close it. Yours is probably the invisible Reed Switch activated by a magnet as on this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipwOerjFITg/v-deo.html
If the blowing air is warm, it's probably the Sealed System issue (compressor most likely). If the air is slightly cold, hopefully, a Defrost Problem, but could also be the beginning of the Sealed System problem. To verify it, you'll need to remove everything from the freezer and look at the Evaporator Coil frost pattern. Thick layers of frost and ice, means Defrost problem. No frost at all, or very little on ONE SIDE ONLY, means Sealed System problem. If you activate the door switch, but the fan is still not blowing air, that's a rare problem... possibly the main PCB.
Did you ever figure out the problem? I can also feel cold air blowing during the test but not during normal operation.
@@Your-Self I’ve run through the tests - thank you for this tutorial! - and the Error Code light isn’t lighting. The refrigerator is lukewarm but the freezer works fine. I’ve cleaned the disgusting fluid that had pooled in the evaporator tray (on the bottom right, beneath the fridge’s rear bottom panel), but I’m not sure if that might have been related. I also haven’t figured out how to clean the drainage tray that’s visible through the plastic vents at the back interior bottom of the refrigerator section.
Thanks for all the helpful videos.
One question... after doing tests and resets, the compressor and fan operate fine, but no cooling. No LED indicator. Lights still on inside fridge also.
If the compressor and all fans are running, and you can feel the air movement inside the refrigerator but it's not cold, that's a pretty bad sign of a major Sealed System problem. If your LG refrigerator is under 5 years old and you have the purchasing receipt, LG may fix it for free.
@@Your-Self Thank you. That's what I assumed. Much appreciated for your help.
@@Your-Self what do I need to do since I have a receipt from Sept 2017 pertaining the refrigerator purchase? I think my seal needs to be replaced.
@@Your-Self How can I be sure yhat its the seal?
I have a LG LMXS27626D /01 French door refrigerator that stopped cooling. It’s about 3.5 years old. I’ve run through some troubleshooting based on your videos. Thanks, they are helpful!
My compressor seems to be running, it’s warm and it hums/vibrates. I used my multimeter to check the windings, and all seem to have checked out. I get about 8ohms across 2 pins and 0 across the other 2 paths. The compressor fan operates fine. There is no LED that I can see on the PCB when I do the test/reset operation or indications of error codes... The evaporator fan seems to be working since I can run the reset test and there is air movement from inside the fridge, just not cold air. The other test I did was with an infrared thermometer to check heat output on the various components. I’m not seeing an increase in temperature across the condenser coils. So what does all this mean? I’m guessing low refrigerant?? Or is this still a bad compressor? Or, something else...
I contacted LG and they’re sending out a tech in like 3 weeks… That’s too long. What do I do?
It sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem... running but not cooling.
They should replace the compressor absolutely free (parts & labor) for the first 5 years, but you may have to "fight" for it.
Meanwhile, if you don't have a spare fridge, maybe get a small one until they fix yours.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the speedy reply! So are they going to come out and replace the compressor with another unit with the exact same problem and in about 3 years I'll be faced with the same problem? Or, did LG do something to actually fix the problem with their linear compressors?
According to LG, they have improved the Linear compressor about a year ago, and it's called a "Universal compressor" that fits most models. But there is no track record to prove that it's any better than the old one, so only time will tell.
My LFX28978ST from 2011 have linear compressor replaced in 2015 and its bad again not even 7 years full (why I am here). First time they charge me for labor which came out $200-something and this time since no warranty, I am just gonna go with local repair shop. Cannot believe how bad those compressors are as old cheap fridge can go 20 years
Thank you for uploading such informative video. I did the test and according to the error code chart you showed at the end of your video, my error code light was flashing 5 times and the chart says,”lack of oil inside compressor, or physical restriction by foreign material”. Please let me know how do I fix this problem. I didn’t find any oil leak behind the fridge. Thank you
It sounds like the compressor has stalled and, most likely, needs to be replaced.
Unfortunately, it's an expensive repair.
Thank you for the helpful video. I tried the test on my LG fridge (my PCB is mounted on top) but didn't seem to produce any errors. After a power outage the freezer is blowing air that is about 55 degrees F. Won't get colder even though compressor stays on. Any ideas what might cause that? Oh I can also hear a slight buzzing coming from the PCB, not sure if that is normal.
A power outage may corrupt the PCB, so it's best to plug the fridge and all your electronics into the surge protectors. After running this test, the PCB may get reset and come back to full life within 24 hours, or may not.
Make sure the condenser coils, next to the compressor, is not full of dust and hair... clean with a brush and vacuum if needed.
Next, I'd check the evaporator coils behind the back wall inside the freezer. If it's covered in a thick layer of ice and frost, you may have a Defrost Problem.
@@Your-Self I have the same fridge with PCB board top and has the same issue with power outage. Ran the reset test and clean the condenser coils, no luck. Should I turn off the refrigerator for 24hr or leave it on?
@@namlam9956 why isn't @yourSelf replying? I have the same issue too, after power outage my fridge/freezer was not cooling, tried reset got no errors and no cold. the freezer and fridge ran for a bit then stops.
This video save me from buying another refrigerator, thank you so much!!!
Good to hear it!
Having same issue as others. Works perfect in test mode 1. When in regular operation with magnet trick, the fan behind the air filter is spinning but no air is blowing out of the vent that lead to the door ice maker. I'm not sure where the freezer door sensor is though.
Anyone solve this?
My bottom freezer, the door switch is just inside freezer opening upper surface, middle. Can only see it from below
Thank you for the video, what is the course of action for 6 blinks? Compressor is running fine, it’s not too hot either, no restriction
Most of the time, the 6 blinks indicate an expensive "sealed system" problem.
To find out exactly what the problem is, a technician needs to install gauges and check the pressure.
I did the test, it looks like everything was working the fans inside the freezer and fridge were working fine for around 5 minutes but then they stopped.. so what could it be...
Any luck
@@shanebudiac6481 no
Same for me. Did the tests and everything worked - fans blew, compressor working and I actually felt cold air. Finish test and fans / compressor stop working.
Anybody figure this out? Everything seems to be working in the back but nothing in the front.
Same... But it won't cool.
Good morning hi evaporator fan is running in test mode but I just plugged it back in after testing and the fan is not running. Do you have a video that shows me the next steps to take ? Thank you so much for your help great video
Same with mine. It is very likely the compressor
Thank you! For now at least, you saved me a huge repair bill.
Good to hear it, and thanks for watching!
I have a LG inverter 3 door and is building ice where the coils are idk what it could be would the reset works on this fridge pls help
@Manuel Jaramillo what coils are you referring to, the freezer, fridge, or condenser next to the compressor? Please start a new thread with your model number. (I don't always get replies on old messages)
@@Your-Self is the one inside fridge behind fridge wall panel is building ice
@Manuel Jaramillo try to turn OFF and defrost your refrigerator for about 24 hours with open doors. If the ice comes back, you'll need to call a tech to look for a Defrost, or a Drain problem.
Thank you very much. Few UA-camrs are so thorough in spelling out the steps. I'm still left with a mystery though: I pressed the button one time (never any LED flashes), and my refrigerator started blowing again. I may never know why it was tripped. Any ideas? (I won't know for some hours whether it cools, but the compressor and all fans are blowing).
LG linear compressors cool very slowly. So give it a whole day to work its magic.
And if it's still warm, there could be a Sealed System (expensive) issue. If your refrigerator is under 5 years old, LG may replace the compressor for free.
Hi there. Amazing video. I tried this however during the test I can feel the cool air coming through the vents but it doesn’t blow any air during normal operation. Fridge randomly started to not cool. Both the freezer and the upper compartment isn’t cooling. During the test there is cold air blowing in the compartments but once test is done there is no airflow. Any fix ?
Try to narrow down the problem.
1. Does the compressor regularly turn itself ON and run, but you don't feel any air inside the refrigerator?
2. Or the compressor never runs during normal operation, but works during the test mode?
Keep in mind that in some models when you open the door, the fan will automatically stop blowing air, so you need to activate the door switch and hold it for a minute for a fan start again.
YourSelf thank you for your reply. Compressor is on full time but the cooling is very low. It’s still cooling but no where near the normal cooling temperature. I don’t feel any air blowing into the compartments at all
You didn't mention if you activated the door switch for about a minute while checking the airflow... that's important.
What is your refrigerator model number?
Having the exact same problem, my model is lmxs30776s. Test mode fan blow cool air, when test mode is done the compressor runs for about 3 or so minutes then stop then run again and repeat that... freezer someone cool fresh food compartment is hot. The fan next to the compressor continue to run. The compressor was replaced by a certified technician and that’s when the 6 flashes started. Replaced the PCB board which I don’t think was the problem now. Still no good. Refrigerator $3000 plus, compressor $500 plus labor, PCB board $230. I have a very expensive hot box taking up space in my kitchen
@Michael Maxwell nice and complicated model with a dual evaporator. Maybe the certified tech didn't know how to work on this model. Probably need to reinstall the compressor and refill the sealed system properly. If it was replaced by a new "Universal" compressor, the main PCB needs to be reprogrammed with a special LG software jig to run properly.
Hi,
Thanks for a very useful and nice video.
I have a lg gr-f802hlhu model refrigerator. I just have an annoying buzzing sound from the compressor.
Services in Turkey do not know even one of the things you are talking about. Therefore, unfortunately, there is no professional service provider to tell my problem.
You can try placing your hand on the compressor and some copper pipes around (wear a rubber glove for safety). If the sound stops, that's a vibration you may be able to fix. If not, the sound may be coming from the inside of the compressor, and there is nothing that can be done. If there is a fan next to the compressor, maybe the sound is coming from there?
Thank you so much - I went through this sequence yesterday and today the fridge is working fine and I am so grateful to you. My question is, this having happened, what could cause it to STOP working and does this mean that the compressor is on its way out? When I did the part of the test where the LED light would indicate problems, there was no blinking. But I'm worried about putting a bunch of food in there again if it is likely to happen again soon.....
Nowadays refrigerators are run by electronics and the software. Just like a typical computer or your phone, sometimes it locks up and needs resetting. This can happen for no reason at all, the power outage, or an electrostatic shock if you finally decided to remove that protective plastic cover from the door ;) So nobody knows if it happens again, but I'm glad your fridge works now!
Thank you this is very informative. does the main pcb board control the ice maker cycles or just supply power to the ice maker. thank you (my fridge is a few yrs old and the ice maker will not cycle, i have tried turning power off/on but i only see the green led on the ice maker...no movement. i have water to the ice maker and the temp is cold enough)
Every model is different, but the PCB probably checks for the right temperature around the ice maker and then sends the power to it.
Look for a test button below the ice maker or a pinhole on the side. Slide a paper clip into the hole, and hold it for 3 seconds for a cycle to begin. Or hold the test button for the same 3 seconds. If the ice maker is not rotating, it's probably bad.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the quick reply. I turned the ice maker on/off several times waiting 10 minutes. And also pulled the 120v pwer from the fridge. And Praise the Lord after a couple of hours it started working.
Very helpfull! You earnt a new subscriber!
Glad you found the video helpful, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for this tips. But what does it mean exactly if I have 3 red flashing? Do i need to change the all pcb has you said earlier or is it an "easyer" fix? Thanks again
Great video. Thank you! God bless.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for that vid. Well explained.
I have a deep fridge from haier company. There is a connection from the controller named by PMW with two cables. Wich is connected to the inverter board. I think it gives the command. I have the problem that the compressor not runs by every command.
Do you have experiance with controllers and pulse width modulation commands?
The controller sends a small DC voltage (PWM) of around 2-3 volts to the inverter to run the compressor.
But most of the time the inverter burns out so the compressor can't run. Inspect the inverter board for burnt marks or inflated capacitors.
God bless you! You saved me so much money!
Glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
Me too bro
Hi, thank you for the video it really helped. Question, My LG stopped producing ice in the bottom freezer. I did the diagnostic test like you demonstrated in the video. I don't have the LED light, however on the front panel it was showing me a 33 33 code. I looked it up and it said it was the freezer door switch. I replaced it, redid the test and it still shows that same code. Any ideas what it could be?
LG fridge $1495 bought feb 2018, quit working I unplugged and cleaned compressor and fan area. Plugged back in and still no heat. LG was great at giving me a phone number for a service center which I will have to pay parts and labour. Thanks to LG we are now using a 25 yo Frigidaire we were given for free. Our next fridge will not be LG
If your fridge quit working because of a bad compressor, LG should fix it absolutely free (if you have the purchasing receipt)
We contacted LG and they sent out competent tech to replace compressor for free. We did have to buy a mini fridge since it was a week before he would show up.
Thanks for this! Your video helped me figure out that the fans aren't blowing apparently. So the main board might be a goner. LG has been notified (fussed out) and they have a R.O started now.
During the Test Mode, all fans should blow air... but in some refrigerator models, you also need to activate the door switch for the fan to run after opening the door.
Hope your model doesn't require it.
@@Your-Self it's likely the main board that's gone wrong. When I hit the reset button once, the front panel lights up entirely and the freezer starts making cold air (non for the refrigerator) it runs for about 5min then stops and exits that mode.
I'm not sure what's going on here but it's weird that the fan won't power on until the reset procedure is activated.
DO NOT BUY LG REFRIGERATORS. MINE BROKE DOWN THREE TIMES AND THEY HAVE DONE ZERO TO HELP ME.
They are nice and roomy, have good features but there is something wrong with them just like the washers.
I think our last one was damaged or something during manufacturing so after 5 repairs we got a new one and it got loud after a year and the tech that came out under warranty said he could not find anything wrong. We even did a video for him with the sound and it went away when you opened the door, you can tell a fan is rubbing on something
maybe ice build up in the freezer. I hope this fixes ours as I am about to open the freezer up to see if there is ice rubbing on the fan blade.
I AGREE.
Appliances should last 20 years like they used too.
i agree
I wonder how much it's down to you. Most companies aren't that bad these days.
Amen!!! Same here!
Hi, I have a Kenmore Elite and my fridge and freezer fans stopped working causing them temps to raise to room temp. I took off the lower panel on the back of the refrigerator and observed the condenser had a light hum to it and the fan next to the condenser was on.
I then UA-cam some videos and came across yours. I followed your directions and removed the motherboard panel and pushed the test button. The internal fans began to work in test mode, however once the system went back into normal mode the internal fans stopped. As you had recommended to others, I held the door button to trick the system into thinking the doors were shut but the fans were still not on.
From the comment I see on here, it seems to be a common issue. I contacted Sears and they said since it was purchased in Sept 2018 that the warranty expired except for the condenser, which is a 10 yr warranty so if it’s the condenser then at least it’s covered. I am scheduled out with Sears a couple of weeks and hoping that I am able to fix it sooner than that. Hoping folks that have had the same issue chime in to what the fix was for them. Thanks for any and all input for this problem!
During the Test Mode - if the fans are blowing warm air, the compressor is probably bad.
If the air is cold, the problem could be with a temperature sensor, door switch, motherboard... to figure that out, requires a lot of testing.
@@Your-Self thank you for your input! I would say the air isn’t warm or cold but more room temperature.
Yep, when I said warm, I meant room temperature. So it sounds like the compressor is bad, just idling.
@@Your-Self thank you so much for the direction! I will update after the repair by Sears.
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. I followed all steps and everything worked in test mode but after the 4th press, the fridge and freezer still do not cool. Both stay at about 60 degrees.
Mine too
If you're LG has a linear compressor....it's bad, or is going to fail. There's a class action lawsuit against LG because of this.Huge problem for LG.
Hello - thank you for this heads up. I was 'this' close to going out and getting an LG side by side with the linear compressor (even though it says 10 year warranty on compressor). What exactly is the issue with it though and purported failure mode? Thanks.
Thanks for your videos.
I have an LG LRBC20512SW that came with our house we bought last July that stopped cooling.
I can't find a test button on the motherboard.
The compressor sounds fine. It's fan works. The interior air flow fan works. But there's no cold air.
What can be the issue?
I also have a large Frigidaire freezer model LFFH20F3QWC that stopped working.
Nothing happens when I plug in. I don't hear any sound at all from compressor or fans.
Only the light turns on.
I ordered a relay & capacitor with the hope that can fix it.
I also noticed in the past that the coils froze up. What can be causing that?
Any help on either of these would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
That model LG looks like doesn't have a test button. The compressor is "old skool" basic, which is more reliable than LG Linear. So if it runs together with fans, most likely the refrigerant gas has leaked out... an expensive fix (assuming frozen coils were on Frigidaire). Maybe somebody could "gas it up" for you, and see if it holds the charge.
The Frigidaire may have a stuck Timer (located near the compressor). I think the knob on that timer could be turned by hand clockwise. Try turning it until the compressor and the fan kick in.
@@Your-Self Thank you for taking the time to reply!!! For the LG LRBC20512SW Fridge if it's indeed an expensive fix it wouldn't be worth doing Is there any way to tell if the refrigerant leaked? Is it possible that it's another issue like a faulty motherboard perhaps?
Regarding the Frigidaire LFFH20F3QWC freeze I turned the defroster timer knob a few times but still nothing works. I'm waiting for the capacitor to arrive to see if that will fix anything but I really have no idea what the issue is.
If the compressor and fans on LG are running, the motherboard is doing its job. The only way to verify the refrigerant leak is to pierce the copper tube and check the pressure inside. If there is no pressure (while the fridge is unplugged), the gas is gone.
On Frigidaire, the compressor and the fan are on a parallel circuit. That means one can work without the other. If they both don't work, something they have in common is the problem... unless the fan died earlier. That's where you need a multimeter to check each component and trace where you lose the voltage. The voltage is supplied to both of them through the Thermostat (Cold Control) and the Timer. So if you get about 120VAC at the Timer (between pins 1 and 3), the Timer is probably burnt inside. If there is no voltage, the Thermostat is bad. Try replacing it.
It's a live electric test and can be dangerous.
Step 1: Don’t buy an LG fridge
😂
That was step 2 for me after step 1: buy an LG fridge and understand it’s crap
I found Korean appliances are piece of junk. Will never buy them again.
Korean appliances are piece of junk.
They are all junk these days aren't they
I really enjoy your lessons, you are the best,
Happy to hear that!
Love you vids. They just replaced my LG compressor and it's now cooling, but the temp is fluctuating. It's still empty because we're not sure if we trust it yet. I just started keeping a log of the temp variations. The freezer seems to doing fine. The temp is set for 38, in a 24 hour period the fridge temp goes up and down between 38 and 48. Is this okay, and if not, is there an easy solution? Thanks.
When a refrigerator is empty, the temperature may have wide fluctuations. Put a few gallons of water bottles inside to stabilize the temp.
What is the freezer temperature range? And does your model have a single or dual evaporator?
@@Your-Self That makes sense, let me try that. I haven't been monitoring the freezer as much, the temp seems to be 0 degrees. I'm not sure the number of evaporators, I've done some research and haven't found a way to find out.
Thank you for the video. My freezer begins working properly, but randomly doesn’t get cold enough to freeze for about 2 days, then freezes again. This process has happened about 4 times in a month. What do you think it could be?
Intermittent issues like this are difficult to diagnose, especially over messaging. It could be the fan occasionally not working, sticking relay on the PCB, partial/moving restriction inside the sealed system... etc, so it's probably best to call a tech to look at it. Sorry that I can't be more helpful. PS when it's freezing well, measure the temperature inside the freezer for the technician to know, and if it's warmer than 5°F, it's not good freezing.
hi what was your issue , mine is doing the same thing , was once a year at xmas time , now its out of warranty its doing it monthly
Thanks for the video. We have a LG LMXS30776S/04 and it’s 3 yr and 1 month old now. Ran the smart diagnostic and no errors were found. Performed the test modes per your video and for test 1 the condenser fan turns on and the compressor is also slightly vibrating. The fridge and freezer fans are on and the air is blowing cold. On the second stage of the testing mode the condenser fan and compressor is still on however only the freezer fan is on. There is also no light flashing on the pcb board during the tests but the lights on the front panel does show “22” - “22”.
I also tested the relay and compressor prongs and got around 8.5-9 ohms on one prong set and 0 for the other 2 prong set. Based on your comments it seems like I have a compressor issue but not entirely sure. Thanks again.
Based on your description, everything works as it is supposed to.
Check if the fan inside the fridge blows cold air during "normal mode" while the compressor is running (you'll need to activate a door-switch with a magnet, so the light turns off).
If the fan works, maybe the air is not cold enough. This could be due to a defrost problem, or most likely, the compressor going bad.
Call LG directly if you have the receipt, and they should replace the compressor absolutely free.
I’m having th e exact same issue, same results with the 22 on display. I see this happened to you 2 yrs ago, I’m curious how you made out? Did LG replace your compressor?
Thank you so much for sharing this great video helping me fixing this FANCY LG product!👍
Glad it helped
Thank you for this video I have a Frigidaire FG4H2272UF but I can't find the test button. Would you by any chance know where it is? It is not on the main board. My problem is no cooling at all. I change the inverter and same result. I tested the electric part of the compressor and I get 20.3 on each pin. It make a nice noise. So I am hoping its not the compressor. I also checked the power to the inverter and I get 110V and 6v.
This video is for an LG refrigerator. Your Frigidaire doesn't have a test button.
If you can feel that the compressor is running and slightly vibrating, it's probably good. If fans are running as well, the problem could be with the refrigerant (Freon) leak.
Does the display work on the door and the middle pull-out section? Are there any error codes?
@@Your-Self Thank you for your reply - They are no error code on the door and the display seams to work properly. The compressor is running and has a slight vibration. Fan is running. The condenser stays room temperature. So I am going to refill the refrigerant.
Off topic question: I am about to refill it with refrigerant. The data sticker calls for 200g / r123a. How do I determine what's in the system before refilling? I suspect nothing is left and I do intend to vacuum it.
Are you sure it's an r123a and not the r134a?
The only way to measure how much refrigerant is left inside is to recover it in a bag and weigh it.
Newer refrigerators are very finicky about having the right amount of refrigerant filled.
I believe this is a 2-evaporator system with a distribution (stepper) valve. This makes it even more complicated with the vacuuming and refilling.
It's best to find the leak and repair it first.
You can try adding a little refrigerant at a time. If it starts to cool, you have a leak. If it's still not cooling, the problem could be something else.
Question about sealed system issue. Did all tests in the video and all my fans are working, compressor seems to run just fine, air blowing into both the fridge and freezer, however it will just not get cold enough. I found some information online, not sure how accurate it is, that states if you take a temperature gun to the "coils" (sorry, not sure if that is the correct term) or where the coolant would be running through, that it should be 30 degrees or so above ambient temperature to know that it is working, and when I do that I am getting temps barely above the ambient room temp.
Would this lead one to believe it is a sealed system issue? I am out of warranty and if so, more than likely going to just get a new fridge. Thank you ahead of time for your awesome video and assistance to everyone who asks!
Take care.
Your presumption is correct. Most likely the problem is with a weak compressor or a refrigerant leak.
But I'd check the freezer evaporator coils first. If the coils are covered in a thick layer of ice and frost, it's a Defrost Problem. If no ice, it's a Sealed System Problem.
@@Your-Self Thank you for the fast reply! So I actually do not use the ice maker portion, just because I do not like the water here and hardly ever use ice. Anyway, on an LG LFX25978ST I need to take the panel off in the freezer portion to check the freezer evaporator coils, correct?
Quick further back story. The vents on the bottom back portion and the whole area behind the fridge was embarrassingly dirty, so I popped the lower panel off and cleaned all that up including the area around the compressor and fan and everything. How long in your opinion should it take the unit to get back to normal cooling and freezing temps if working correctly after that? I just went and checked the freezer pack that I have sitting in the freezer and it is actually starting to harden now slowly. Should I let it sit longer before further diagnosing? I am now wondering if being extremely dirty caused it not to cycle properly for a long time and now just needs to catch up?
Is that possible? Again you are awesome and thank you for the help!
Yes, the extra dusty condenser coils will impair the system heat transfer. Hopefully, after cleaning them, the full cooling will come back within a day. If not, the dusty coils could've overheated and permanently damage the compressor.
Thankyou so much for this information. It saved me needing to call a technician
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
We purchased a used LG refrigerator almost 10 years ago and we are just replacing it now.
The one i have is from, 2006
Very informative video. Followed this procedure and everything worked and follows the sequence for the fans, compressor, and defrost. I was hoping the "reset" you mention would clear an eR15 I'm getting on the front LCD display. But it didn't. BTW my board does not have any LED light it just beeps. I replaced the icemaker hoping it would solve the problem, since this code is icemaker related but it still eventually goes back to eR15 error code. Refrig and freezer both work fine, but once it throws the eR15 code water will not dispense. Ice maker will go through producing one cycle of ice, but after code nothing. Unplugging refrig clears code, but it then goes back to eR15. Sometimes the refrig will go back to normal (clear code) on its own. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
That's an unusual error code. Typically it's all letters, no numbers. So probably - ER IS.
What's the model number of your fridge? I may be able to dig up some info on it.
@@Your-Self LFX25980ST
@@Your-Self Thanks for your reply. Yes, I've seen it shown both as "I5" and "IS" on my web searches and the code is shown to be "a problem with the icemaker fan motor" or a "disconnection with the icemaker sensor". The fan motor is operating and blowing cold air, As I stated since the control board is part of the icemaker and cannot be easily repaired, I replaced the entire icemaker with a new one. So I'm at a loss here, I sure hope you can help because this is driving me crazy. As I stated the refrig and freezer are operating and cooling fine. Once the code is showing the refrig will not dispense any water. I have gotten the icemaker to complete and make one ice cube cycle before the code is thrown. This is baffling to me …. I thought and was hoping that the new icemaker would clear the code. When I unplug the refrig and then plug it in the front display will display a normal good display and then cycle back and forth between a good display and the "eRIS" code until it finally settles and stays on the error code.
This code is for a "problem with ice-room sensor" that is located slightly above the ice-maker. The sensor (thermistor) could be bad, or a connection could be loose/corroded.
Sensor part number 6500JB1008A
@@Your-Self Wow ... thank you so much for that part number and solution! Is that directly above the icemaker on the back wall where I see three square holes in the panel? Is that easy to get to or do I have to pull the entire inside panel off? If I could I'd like to provide you with a recent troubleshooting observation I just made while waiting on your reply. I noticed that when I cycle the power on the icemaker switch from on to off and then keep the icemaker off it clears the eRIS error code with the new icemaker. Once I try to turn on the new icemaker again the error code comes back. With the old icemaker installed that error code existed with it on or off and also once I removed the old icemaker from the refrig/circuit it also tripped that error code. Does that behavior still jive with your proposed solution? Thanks again for all your help!
So run through the tests and no codes show. When in normal operation I get water puddle that freezes inside the floor of the freezer compartment. Heater element ohms test shows 32.1 and defrost control sensor tests good. There is no obstruction from sheet metal defrost catch tray inside freezer compartment to and thru the tube to the evaporation tray by the compressor. Is it possible the heater can pass the test but be getting old and not providing enough heat to do a complete defrost?
Thanks much for the vid very helpful
The heater either works or doesn't. Most incomplete defrost cycles are due to the defrost control sensor (thermistor or thermostat, depending on your model) going bad, or attached in the wrong location. And can you visually confirm that the ice/frost not defrosting completely?
What is an actual problem with your refrigerator... not cooling or a puddle of water on the freezer floor?
If you are absolutely sure that the defrost water drains-out well, the icemaker or the water dispenser could cause a water-puddle on the floor.
thanks for posting this video. I did the test mode and everything works. out of test mode the evaporator fan in the freezer does not work. any ideas??
During a normal mode, when you open a door, the fan may stop automatically. So you need to trick the system as if the door is closed by activating the door switch. The fan should start blowing within a minute.
However, if during the Test compartment fans were blowing warm (room temp) air, the compressor could be bad, or the refrigerant could be leaking out.
Hey I love the video. My LG freezer works but the upper part doesn’t cool enough. Any ideas?
When you run Test #1, do you feel warm/cold air blowing into the upper section?
Depending on your model number (single or double Evaporator) the problems could differ. For example; defrost problem, drain problem, damper door, fan, or compressor problem. Your freezer temperature is probably set at 0°F, but what is the actual temperature?
@@Your-Self my fridge and freezer works well on test 1 and 2 and 3 but normal operation it doesn't blow out the same cold air in the freezer
HI,I have a cuestión,do you recommend buy a LG refrigerator with inverter linear compressor? It's true the compresor It's not good,and what brand of refrigerator you recommend, thank you for you help.
Nowadays, LG installs newer updated compressors, so they should be better.
Every refrigerator brand has problems, so buy what you can afford.
Thanks for the video! I am wondering how long to run test #3 to run the defrost cycle? 3 minutes? 10 minutes? 1 hour? Please advise.Thanks again!
The defrost cycle will timeout on its own. I just don't remember how long the cycle is... maybe 10-20 min.
But if it's already warm in the compartment, test 3 may not even start. Or it will finish early if the temperature gets too high.
Omg! Thank you for this!!!! This test saved my fringe!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the informative video. Everything went well and Unfortunately the fridge still does not cool. Will have to call technician.
If your fridge is under 5 years old, call LG directly... they may replace the Linear compressor for free.
Thank you very much for the video I did the first step and I heard the bips after when I did the second step I didn’t heard nothing and there is no cold air could you please answer me
Hello thank you for the informative post. My problem is that the refrigerator stays at around 66° no matter what I set the temperature for. The freezer works fine and keeps the food Frozen as it should. You indicated that a circulation fan might not be turning on. I wonder if that is a motherboard problem? Are there two separate fans, one that is internal between the freezer in the refrigerator? Do you have a schematic diagram of those refrigerator? I will run through your Diagnostics tomorrow but I'm not sure if it will accurately determine my problem. Thanks in advance, Paul
What is your refrigerator model number? I may have the schematic for it.
You could have multiple fans and multiple cooling Evaporators... or just one. That may play a role in why one section is cold, but the other is not. Also, what is the actual temperature inside your freezer? It may seem freezing cold at 25°F, but it really should be at around 0°F. Make sure the Condenser Coil next to the compressor is clean to provide a good heat-transfer.
@@Your-Self Thank you for your quick response. As you can imagine it's always exciting when your refrigerator full of food is not cooling properly. I was too busy vacuuming out the coils and wiping the greasy crud off the fan blades to notice that there was a schematic on the top of the refrigerator back. I purchased a 4 probe smoker thermometer so that I could measure both the freezer and the refrigerator at the same time. After preforming the four test sequences I determined that the circulation fan was now indeed working, (with the help of a magnetic so that I could feel the cool air beginning to come into the refrigerator). Yeah! My food is saved! But I may still have the beginning of a problem. Setting the temperature to the lowest setting the freezer measured -8 but the refrigerator only got down to 45 degrees. That's enough to stop any more milk from going bad but I am wondering if my linear compressor is starting to fail? I think the model number is an M6#1JCV075320 or an MS#1JCV075320 or an LMXS27626SAS. The invoice was smudged. It is an LG Linear Compressor Side by Side with a an icemaker. Thank you soooo much for your step by step video. Very informative! What are your thoughts on my temperature variables?
By the way I did not have a blinking LED on the motherboard. But I did have indications of what mode I was in on the front panel display. The purchase date for this unit was August 23rd 2015. Do you think I could get a freebie replacement for the compressor?
The model number on the invoice seems to be for a French-Door fridge, so I'm still not sure if you have a dual or a single Evaporator. The model number should be on a sticker, probably inside the refrigerator section.
If your freezer got down to -8°F, that probably means the compressor is good. And if it's a single evaporator unit, the problem could be with the air transfer from the freezer to the fridge compartment.
@@Your-Self
Yes it is a French Door Refrigerator with two drawers below and both of the drawers are freezers. The refrigerator is set for 34° and it has improved and stabilized at 40°. Big improvement but still not what it is set for. There is only one fan at the coils. Is there an internal fan for the refrigerator or some sort of damper door to regulate the cold air coming from the very cold freezer?
Hello thanks for info all the fans works during test mode but don’t seam to work now
LED lights come on but very dim. Ideas ?? Thanks. I have done the unplug the fridge reset, which helped with another problem but not the lights.
What refrigerator model number are you talking about? Because they all have different wiring setups.
But the most common problem is with the freezer LED going bad. And that module brings down the whole circuit.
Thank you for the video. I have the same model, not working now. Does the big capacitor at bottom of board need to be checked or replaced? Could it be the cause ?
You can check the capacitor below the board, but it's almost never a problem.
When you say "not working now", what exactly is not working?
Do fans and the compressor run during the Test, but don't cool? Or nothing runs at all, and no lights inside?
@@Your-Self i did test the capacitor. it is working. The unit is not cooling at all. both fridge and freezer. The fans are working. The Compressor is linear and seems making some noise, assumed it was working. I did test it with Ohm meter. It read 9. so i assumed it is also working. I ended up calling a tech, he said the compressor, though it is reading good but is not compressing!
It sounds about right. The LG Linear compressor very often fails this way, running but not cooling because it's not compressing.
Si haces la prueba de descongelamiento pero el evaporador no tiene nada hielo, no se activa la resistencia?
If the freezer is already warm, the defrost test will not work because there is nothing to defrost.
Great video! Are the temperatures on the fridge the setting and not the actual temperature?
Most refrigerators have only settings for the temperature, not the actual temps. But some models have both, and you should be able to find it in your Owner's Manual. Thanks for watching!
@@Your-Self mine is pretty much exactly like yours, except the condenser is on the other side away from the compressor and the temps are displayed on the outside of the door. Mines not cooling and seems like everything is working fine. Oh well
Sounds like a typical LG Linear compressor problem, running but not cooling. If your fridge is under 5 years old, the compressor should be covered under the Free replacement warranty.
@@Your-Self I bought it in April 2016 so we'll see what they tell me, tried to call but they moved their hours because of covid-19. Thanks for all the help!
@@Your-Self the compressor sounds like it's running, I don't hear any relays clicking but yeah the evaporator isn't cold, the condenser isn't hot...
I have model lfxs30726s /02. The refrigerator stopped cooling, freezing. I did the reset test and both sections were blowing air from the vents. After the test, it is not blowing any air. Also, I didn't see any lights blinking to give any idea of what might be the problem.
What do you suggest to do next?
Thanks for your help and great video!
During the Test, was the air blowing cold or warm?
If it was warm, the most likely problem is with the Sealed System... expensive to fix without warranty.
@@Your-Self it wasn't hot/warm but it wasnt cold either, lol. Thought maybe it would get colder but then there is no air blowing when its not doing the test. I'll try it again to see if it is on the cold side.
Can you leave it on Test 2 (or 22) for an extended period of time to see if it gets cooler?
You can leave the Test-1 (all compartments) or Test-2 (single compartment) running for a few minutes to see if it gets colder. Eventually, the Test will time-out in 10-30 minutes. If the blowing air stays around room temperature, it's a bad Sealed System.
PS. The air may seem not to blow during regular operation is because when you open the door, the fan will stop automatically. But if you activate the door-switch, the fan should start blowing again within a minute.
I pushed a reset button and it started cooling again. I wonder what a issue was??? Thanks a lot for the video
Maybe one of the door-switches is going bad, or the temperature sensor is out of spec, or the mainboard is being finicky.
Thank you so much. The model you used in the video is the exact same model that I have.
Glad I could help
@@Your-Self unfortunately it did not solve my issue, still good knowledge still had a technician come out under warranty replace the compressor and dryer LG having a problem with these specific things
I saw some great comments so I am reaching out hope you can help me. My LG refrigerator top refrigerator won’t go below 40 degrees and the freezer gets to 20-30 degrees. I have them set to 34 deg and -6 deg. I’ve up plugged 10 minutes and back in. I run test program. I’ve clean and vacuumed the coils and back of unit. I am not getting any led lights flashing. I’ve moved everything away from the vents and both are blowing cold air. Seals are good doors are level. The unit is 13 yrs old. Model LFX28977ST /01. If you have any ideas please share.
Looks like your model has a regular compressor, which is more reliable than the newer linear compressor.
Did you move your refrigerator recently where it gets direct sunlight?
If not, you may want to check the evaporator coil inside the freezer. If it's completely covered in a thick layer of frost, it's fixable. If there is no frost at all or there is some just on the top, that could mean the refrigerant (Freon) is leaking out. And that is a pretty expensive repair.
@@Your-Self
Thanks. It not freezing it was Up to 40° when we defrosted everything and I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it doesn’t get below 30 know in the freezer. That was my first guess it was a Freon 13 years old and it’s the older model do you have an idea what it would cost to have that recharged and fixed.
Refrigerant is R134A cost per pound?
Refrigerators take a small amount of R134a (4-6oz), so it's cheap.
But finding and fixing the leak could be difficult and cost $500-$1000.
Some techs may do a "recharge only" for about $200, but that comes with no warranty and can last for a week or a year.
@@Your-Self
You are the man thank you so much
Thanks man... my LG shows error code ff and both freezer and fridge aren't cool properly the fridge fan is out but I'm not sure how to check the freezer fan... I think it's a magnetic switch or something... thanks again for the test button information 👀👍
FF - is the Freezer Fan error code. The fan may be damaged or stuck in ice due to insufficient defrost cycle. If you can, disassemble the freezer to verify ice buildup around the fan.
The freezer fan has probably iced up. The easiest way to fix that is remove all food from the freezer and refrigerator section, unplug the unit and let it defrost for about 24 hours.
You may have to repeat this every six months. I've had this problem for close to 5 years now and LG says my refrigerator is fine.
after all these steps,do you have to unplug the fridge again before replacing the cover of the circuit board?
It's better to unplug again just for safety reasons.
this didn't help very much but, it helped figure more about my fridge. THANKS
Thanks for watching!
Our refrigerator model is ...lsc24971st.
The cooling is not working.
Freezer was working, but the cooler was not at all cooling.
Local Technician visited, cleaned pipes with vinegar, asked us to switch off refrigerator for 24 hrs and restart.
After we restated, the freezer is too is not working to the optimum level and temperature doesn't go below 10 degrees.
Please let me know, what might be the issues.
Thank you so much.
I'm assuming that you checked and both fans are running at the same time as the compressor... right?
In this case, after defrosting the refrigerator for 24 hours and it's still not cooling well, the problem most likely is with the Sealed System (a gas leak, a restriction, or the compressor is going bad)
To verify the problem, the local technician needs to install gauges to check internal pressure inside the Sealed System.
maybe this will help someone but LG model LG LSXS26366S (and probably others) the control board is ON TOP of the unit, and it doesn’t have test mode 2 OR 3. It has one single test mode. a 2nd press of the test button just returns the fridge to regular operation.
I unplugged my fridge for 24 hours. Then ran the test. It seems to be working now. 😮
I jst dd bt how long does it take for the temparature to change to cool mode or freeze
Ran the test just now as my refrigerator and freezer had defrosted overnight.
Test 1 and 2 had cold air blowing out of both the bottom freezer and upper area refrigerator. However when I plugged it back in, only air is coming out of the freezer and not the refrigerator. No blinking LED either.
Any idea what is causing this issue?
Love how this guy teaches.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. I have LFXS30766S. during the test （ press first 1） the blow cold air. after finished all 4 stages. I unplugged it. rest，then plugged back. it doesnot work. the top inside fan does blow any air （no air） the compressor is running all the time. do you have tech who can send me？ do you think it is the PC Broad ‘s problem？
Hi Jorce did u fix ur issue? I have the same problem unfortunately
Thank you very much. I am converting my lg fridge into a coffin and instructed my family to bury me in it. Thanks LG !!
Hi ur video been great but I still have one problem that after I finish the test the fan stops after few minutes then I redo the test same happens so can u please help me to find the problem or the solution
Thanks
I have a kenmore refrigerator model 51833 which has a LG linear compressor FLB075LANA on it. The compressor is running, all fans working, air coming out but not cold, tubes coming into the compressor not hot or cold. When the door opened, evaporator fan always start running, and sometimes it stops when the door is closed. Does it mean the compressor is bad since my refrigerator is just more 4 year old?
It sounds like the gas (Freon) has leaked out, or the compressor is bad, which is a more likely scenario. LG replaces those compressors absolutely free for the first 5 years because it's a major problem. But since your model has a Kenmore label, you have to go through Sears. Call them, and hopefully, you can negotiate a free replacement or some kind of discount.
@@Your-Self thanks for your suggestions
My LG LTCS24223S /01 has the EBR78764101 electronic control board. While I found the reset switch, I did not see an LED anywhere. Is there one on the board? If not, what can I use to identify any error codes? Thanks for an informative video.
I guess not all control boards have an LED indicator light. But you may see error codes in front of the fridge on the display. You may need to open the door to see the display. What exactly is the problem with your refrigerator?
I have the LG French Door model I follow all your steps and everything checks out. The evaporator fan is blowing I can feel it in the vents after a minute or two I can’t feel it thru the vents but when I check the fan it’s still blowing what could be my issue?
I did reach to the point that stepper motor between freezer and fridge mine has only one fan the freezer side thanks again for the video