Getting my Chevy truck c10 running, after 8 years of sitting in the yard.
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- In this video I get my 82 Chevrolet truck c10 running again after 8 years. The engine is a 305 chevy with a 2 barrel and HEI distributor. The engine is not the factory engine but should be similar. I go over sort of a checklist of things to get an old carbureted small block chevy running.
fact you made the effort and results speak its process its progress its start
Well, this truck needs lots of work, but I will eventually get it going. Thanks for watching and commenting.
So, David? There are two primary oddities about an SBC- one is that they will run no matter where you put number one on the cap as long as the wires are in the correct order. & 2:- for some reason they always run best when you have #1 in the factory location. This is when the rotor button & it's conductor literally point towards cyl. #1 on T.D.C on the compression stroke. And, as you route the plug wires, make sure that #5 & #7 do NOT touch or overlap. I have ended up using the second shortest wire of a set for nearly a straight run directly to #5 from it's tower on the cap & whichever one is long enough to go CW, around the back of the dist, over to #7. Reason being I cannot tell you how many times I have seen no-spark-no-start SBC's that have/had wires #5 & #7 either intertwined, crossing one-another, or ran alongside of one another looking like an N gauge railroad track. "Every" one of them needed an ignition module, w/out exception. I won't even run them in a wire loom next to one another. We didn't ever encounter this peculiar oddity until '74 when Chevy began using HEI ign. systems. My guess would be their proximities to each other aren't overly conducive to allowing a sufficient dwell angle within degrees of rotation of the rotor button between two successive discharge incidents of the coil secondary windings. And, that wheeze-oh-five exhaust manifold on the passenger side must go. Shop around & find you a set of long-tube Hooker headers or just replace it with a 350 manifold if you plan on keeping it then use those dead-soft aluminum gaskets (maybe ebay?) for both the flanges and the collectors as they do not come loose once properly tightened
I do normally put the #1 in the correct position. And, I usually watch the 2 valves on #1 stay closed as it approaches TDC on the balancer. It was just a lot faster to pull the cap and do the method where you watch it blow out a paper towel ball. I also usually use a timing light. This engine is missing the timing tab. I'm not done with it, there is a lot of things to go through.
Very informative 👍
Glad it was helpful!
One important part you forgot is that bc it's a Chevy, it will run decently if the thing cranks evenly on each cylinder. If you ran it before you parked it with the distributor that far retarded that is absolutely why it seemed worn out to you. The engine actually sounds "very" healthy to me; at least given the dist is so retarded it barely runs. When you turn the distributor CCW, stop moving it when the coil cover is square with the firewall or like even with the back of the engine and see how it runs then.
I will eventually get to the timing. My goal was to just get it started that day. If you move all the wires over one space, then having the distributor in that position it could be way advanced. Well thanks for watching.
What year is your truck?
@@user-ds9zd8eq6u it's an 82, but the original engine was a diesel. I'm not sure what this 305 came out of.